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This post has been edited by VincC454: Jul 2 2013, 11:38 AM

V4! Congrats!

Fuyooh!.. I dapat masuk... PAGE 1..

Anyway, congratez for V4!.. keep em running guys!

LOL.

Congrat V4.

new version, let me kick start a question that has been bugging me quite a while.

1. I have been trying to apply fluorescent with Gaianotes paint, I notice that they come with different color, so example, I have a painted gold parts, and if I apply the fluorescent yellow it will actually make the part looks darker but glow in yellow ?

2. Or I need to use the Silver > fluorescent yellow path ? (sounds very wrong to me, haha)

3. Can the fluorescent paint mix with others paint such as clear orange ?

Hope any gurus can suggest a proper way in applying fluorescent surface

Thanks
J

This post has been edited by jjaacckk2000: Jul 4 2013, 06:23 PM

Guys

Any idea how different the color of gms105 vs gms120 marker?

Im planning to get marker for age gundam so i thought gms120 will be the better choice. But if i would like to get new gundams in future, does it mean i have to buy different markers again?

Guys,
For the sticker that will easily peel off, can I use Mr. Mark Setter to increase the adhesiveness? If not, any other alternative? Thanks!

Not sure how to fix after peel off, but I do know how to prevent it. Use Mr.Mark Setter when apply water decals, after that top coat it.
If clear stickers or foil stickers, you wont need Mr.Mark Setter just top coat.

Top coat itself will do the trick?

any sifu in Melaka? i need advise on ABS plastic painting.

Top coat just a better or professional name for a clear paint lol... Think logically, if you cover your stickers with a layer of paint, it won't be peel off right? Because it was under the paint unless the paint wear or peel off. Cheers.

If you seek for advice online, I don't think must be at Malacca unless you want live demonstration.

i just bought a 1/14 scale model car kit and wanna do metallic painting. thing is, i had bad experience with peeling paint and shoddy finish.. how ar??

This post has been edited by edmunz: Jul 6 2013, 04:53 PM

dip the sticker in water for 5 sec and use cotton bud to press the sticker

make sure you use priming before painting to make paint stick properly on surface

guys. i have a question. where else can i buy acrylic pains?? for now im buying from the tamiya shop at the basement of 1utama. so i wanna know is there an alternative place to source for acrylic paints. i dun mind online seller as well. right now using tamiya la. if u have other brand n cheaper altrnative pls also suggest. thx in adv.

Can anyone recommend brand of spray that have good metallic color?
The one that reflect lights rather than have dots of shinny sparks.
Or that is a effect from mixture of spray?

Trying to get a metallic chrome like red and blue color.

Thanks

u mean candy color??? But the based color u need to coat a silver coating 1st.

So if Sinanju i wan it to be the color of R11 as pic, i need to spray a layer of silver coating than cover it with the red?
To make it alike with titanium finish.

based coat + Silver + Clear red (noted, the more layer of clear red u spray, the more darker the color).

Not sure if this is the right place.. but anyone know where i can find materials for diorama around shah alam area?

Thanks.

Can try Multifilla at balakong. Alot material there.

is there an alternative to mr hobby top coat
i been looking for it for some time
cant manage to find it in kl

hope you guys can help me out:
currently building the MG Sinanju
-dont wanna use those stickers for the emblem, sleeves etc
-so decided to coat the parts with gold lacquer paint 1st followed by black enamel paint
-use enamel thinner and slowly rub off those parts that needed to be gold

problem is, when i try to rub the enamel paint off, the gold lacquer paint ALSO came off....

so, where is my error? wrong thinner, shld use another type? too rough when rubbing? insufficient layer of lacquer paint (i coated 2 layers)?

please help, thanks

Some people put a layer of gloss topcoat after the gold but before the enamel black.

OK, that's a great idea, but just to confirm that the thinner will have no effect at all to top coats?

and another thing; I already painted all of those parts using the method i just mentioned.
does that mean I have to clean all of them up and redo?

i actually tried this on a dummy first b4 fully implementing, and it seems OK at first, never thought that this could happen

Maybe because you use too much thinner as enamel thinner is quite strong. Just use enough to remove the paint and wipe it off immediately.

i used those cotton buds and just dipped the tip of it with thinner and gently wiped across those i areas that i want.

now that you'd mentioned enamel thinner are strong, then i think i shouldn't be 'rubbing' them right? thanks....

Hey guys... Where's a good place to buy acrylic paints for air brush?

If you are using enamel thinner, chances are that it will slowly "eat through" the laquer gloss layer. Its recommended to re-coat the area again after a few tries with enamel thinner. Also, spraying a gloss coat might dull your gold paint if its metallic base.

i'm using metallic gold fyi.
an d i don't quite understand 'recoating with enamel thinner'. please explain more, thanks.

how bout using Zippo lighter fluid instead? it's weaker than enamel thinner but can remove enamel paints

eh, i never thought about that
might as well give it a try, at least better than redoing all of them...thanks bro

Metallic paint and gloss coat don't really go well with one another (unless it is a gloss coat for metallic paints). If you apply gloss coat, it will reduce the metallic shimmer as the gloss coat dulls the metallic particles (at least that's how I think it works).

Reverse wash - People normally apply a gloss coat to protect the layer underneath so that when you spray enamel paint on top, the lower layers are not affected due to the protection given by the gloss coat when you clean it with thinner/zippo.

Like General Nic says, use Zippo Fluid instead of enamel thinner. But no matter what, if you keep on using Zippo Fluid or Enamel Thinner over and over again, the thinner will eventually eat through the gloss coat and affect your lower layer of paint.

i tried using not only Zippo Fluid, but also WD40. The latter seems to have less effect on the lacquer layer, but will still dissolve it.
you mentioned that using the Zippo Fluid or thinner over and over again, but with gloss coat in between, i presume it will makes it harder to reach the lacquer layer right?

Gloss coat is a layer of protection. But the continuous use of enamel/zippo fluid willl eat the gloss coat it. Try experimenting on a part - keep using the enamel thinner/zippo on it. You will realise that eventually the gloss coat will come off as well as your paint.

Hmm... Anyone can point me to where I can get Mr.Hobby/Tamiya acrylic paints?

Maybe you can try Mgs2u since i recall they have some of it.

I am trying to look for a physical store.

anyone can advice or done it before.. Does it make sense to flat top coat on a painted
metallic finish gundam? I top coat with gloss finish and don't like the effect..

If possible can show some info will be good.. don want to destory and reject after spraying on it.
Feel like getting a spare plastic to test =s

for Tamiya paints go Tamiya Undergroundz @ 1U
for Mr. Hobby paints go Time Machine @ Times Square(but currently closed due to shop relocation)

or try ICW @ PJ

sure you can, I've even seen people who flat coated on chrome gold finish
the result is about something like brushed metal or stainless steel

thanks for advice coz i don want a too shiny look for my gundam.. actually the
kshatriya..

I like flat coat metallic colour.

If I want to paint my already assembled Gundam, should I take everything apart, or just take minor part out, put masking tape on area I don't want to paint, and spray it?

Don't really understand what you trying to ask. But first what grade is it? Which part you want to paint?

I have an old gundam which is HG 1/100 scale. Want to paint everything. So, do I need to disassamble everything before paint it?

So, which is which? you wanna paint everything, or you wanna paint some of them?
anyway, my suggestion; remove everything to paint them individually. HG 1/100 shouldn't have too many parts so shouldn't be a problem right? cheers....

Just one little advice, being lazy couldn't be successful, so just follow what onnylam said. Cheers...

I also confused...
But well you already answered his question.

This post has been edited by TheGreatBahamut: Jul 27 2013, 12:22 PM

LOL, sorry2. What I mean some is that rubber thinggy that connect the joint. (Don't know what do we call it, but that runners that marked as PCC)

But since you guys already said that, then I will take apart everything. Thank you.

new type of Gundam Marker coming soon
it's like Panel Line Accent in marker form
but if I didn't read wrongly, it can corrode acrylic(water based) paint




This post has been edited by General_Nic: Jul 28 2013, 12:28 AM

that part was call as polycaps
we are not paint that one actually

actually, i also have one HG 1/100 that I wanna recon myself.
Too sayang to just let it sleep in box, because it is after all, my first Gundam, the Wing Zero Custom

Now I know.

I know no one ever paint that. That is why I ask do I need to disassamble everything or just put masking tape on that polycaps.

Finish painted all white part. It feels brand new.

show us your recon result after it's done.
mine, still queuing, a few projects in coming, and also, just encountered this one; a 'broken' air compressor
now have to korek my dompet even deeper for a new compressor....

Guys need help. My gundam marker eraser is nearly finish and i need alternatives for it. Tried cleaning a gundam marker smudge with a zippo lighter fluid but it seems it doesnt work.

I tot gundam marker can be erased with any eraser?

Lol seriously?? Need to try later.

Get a bottle of Mr. Paint Remover, quite cheap and long longer.

No it can't... But if the one for panel lining then can rub with eraser.

Mr paint remover? Alrite thnx will look for it.

Actually to remove smudge from panel lining. Will try eraser. The remover i will mainly use it at hard to reach with eraser. Thanx again ya.

Panel line pen can be remove by eraser, if other Gundam marker or tamiya marker then you will need Mr. Paint Remover to remove. And remember, don't ever ever use Gundam Eraser or Paint Remover on plating kit, like titanium finish, extra finish, etc. it will remove the plating as well. I do have the experience that I accidentally use it on Akatuski and I have to repaint it.

what is the recommended paint for best chrome effect ? and gloss black for the first layer ?

Hmmm... Paint remover? If you're talking about the gold marker, the last time I used WD40 pen... Wprks as well. I am not sure about the paint remover whether it will remove your coat of paint as well..

Well, I'm not specifically on gold marker, so far it can remove all marker ink because it should be alcohol/spirit, well it do smell in that way. And yes it can remove paint as well other than marker ink, and also special coating that I mentioned in my previous post. Maybe strong paint like lacquer base a bit hard to remove, I'm not sure though because no way I'm going to use it on my painted kit. Haha

ok noted thanx! using gundam marker for panel lining which i think is much easier for extra hard to reach fine lines. imo la~ those panel lining pens, use my thumb oso can hilang.

Here it is. But I only use paint from can.



Well, at least it look better then before.

And Just finish doing this.

nice~ panel linings will make it even nicer.

guys...may i know is that possible use real touch marker to paint the white dot ??

i tried my best to do the sanding already...but still can see the gap..=.=

White dot, gap, or nub mark? I'm confused.

nub mark and white dot...gap now i already settle by drill the hole larger..

You can use any oil base marker to cover the nub mark or white dot as long as the colour close to the plastic.
Still can't imagine what gap you mean, a picture might help.

drill??? hole larger???

what i means is...when A part combine with B part..normally will have the gap...so i now just use some small drill..to make the hole bigger...

I think I get what you mean now... You use drill to make the female bigger so male peg can fit in nicely...

lol..female and male...lol..nice represent words..
ya..make the hole bigger...so the batang easy masuk..

Hello , May I know ...can I paint my gundam with paint brand Anchor which can buy it easily from other shop ...or still need to buy the paint from Japan which brand Tamiya color to paint it ??? Will my gundam look weirded if I use other brand paint to paint it ..? Bcs I am new ,jus buy a astray red frame gundam ,so I wish to paint it nicely , need every sifu hv me some information ....thx

I'm not sifu, newbie too. But if you see my previous post, for that recon Heavyarms, I used Anchor paint. But I do suggest you do it in the afternoon, when its hot since Anchor not dry out quickly.

Don't be surprise, I'm doing aircraft engineering and we always use these terms...

Yes, you can use Anchor paint or other industrial spray cans for plastic although not really recommended because it might make your plastic brittle. But it would be a good alternative for Tamiya spray cans because Tamiya was damn expensive, buy a beginner airbrush set obviously cheaper. My advice is stay away from Tamiya spray cans if you want to save cost. If you don't know how to utilize your money then you can buy it, because with that money I will buy airbrush set.

But then, spray cans and airbrush were just tools, it depends on your need. If you just started painting, you may use spray cans to see whether you like to custom colour or not, if you really like and will do it frequently or you will get into this hobby seriously then I would recommend you to buy an Airbrush set because you can do various type of painting effect with it which spray can can't do or can't achieve same level result.

There are so many hobby paint beside Tamiya, and a lot of modelers using them as well, do it seem weird? Obviously no... If someone laugh at you if you use spray cans, then you may ask them to show you better paint job that they have did or trying to use spray cans to achieve same effect as yours. But ignore them would be better although this is not my style. If they laugh at your brand, you may ask them to sponsor you Hobby brand spray cans or maybe a high end airbrush set with spare tank. Those modeler who like laugh at other people usually don't have a very very nice skill, they feel proud with their intermediate level in this hobby, there are more skillful modelers that would like to share the proper information in this hobby and you should learn from them.
Cheers...

really ?? learn a new thing....

i already try my best to do the nub mark...but still can see that...
step i do normally is..using cutter cut from plastic...den i will use art knife to cut until a little bit left...then 800 sand paper..( but i use normally water proof industry brand sand paper ) den 1200 den 1500...but still can see the nub mark..but when u touch..is just flat at other surface..

so i wonder..i use real touch marker...to touch up a bit..the use a TOP COAT flat style...will it be better ???

I always have the same problem with you. I try my best to eliminate the nub marks. After sanding I even rub with Tamiya Compound (Coarse and Fine). It will "somehow" reduce the nub marks but not 100%.

hmmm..compound seem interest..but i think the best way is to paint or use some touch up marker to touch up the colour...and after that..just give a top coat..should be enough...

that why i gonna to ask real touch marker can use to touch up or just do weathering...

What I will do is, and the most important step is when you cut the piece from runner. Don't ever ever stress it, if it get bend it will leave white mark on the plastic piece which sanding couldn't remove it.

After I cut it, and no white mark on the piece, I will sand the excessive plastic with files, then use 400->600->800->1000->1200 or above then compound coarse. But be careful with files and P400 sand paper, if you use a lot of force you will sand off the original shape as well.

Well I don't use marker to cover up those nub mark because I don't have much marker and they are not compatible with the plastic colour. If you want to do that, make sure the marker is close to the original colour.
Cheers...

I used magic pen to cover up the nub mark. Well, can't cover it completely. But it's damn cheap. Only RM7 for 12 magic pen

As long as it close to the original colour and also water proof then it do the job well.

I had my old (and bad) days with the nub mark as well. I normally use OLFA crafting knife to slowly cut away the nub area, because the knife is sharp enough to "slice" the plastic, the white nub mark can rub away with finger nails.

But sadly this will not work on titanium finish's part. ><

Wow ....really thx a lot ...I really learn a lot of thing ...,ya the Tamiya paint really a bit expensive ...that y I plan to use other paint ,that may b also can paint out nice color like Tamiya paint ....I am try my best to paint my first gundam ..to paint it nicely ...thx a lot sifu ....hehe

You are welcome. I never use Tamiya spray can before but I guess their texture was quite good from what I've seen in some video. But other brand of spray cans can also achieve nice effect. Sometimes I also use cheap spray cans for my model but some colour was high gloss paint, so I have to apply top coat flat if I want the current model have a flat look.

Have try the Tamiya spray cans once, it was nice finish but not worth the cost. It barely last to spray on MG unicorn innerframe.

Yea obviously not worth, if spray cans just use cheapo will be enough. But still airbrush set will last longer and save cost, so I planning to get one as well but not able to buy a high end set now.

By high end set you mean the compressor with tank set ?

Ya... but without spare tank also quite expensive.

Tamiya sprays are very nice! But it costs around 20 ringgit for each can. The finish is very decent. One MG, I will probably use about 2 cans... Pretty expensive. Just borrowed an AB from a friend and bought some paints. Hopefully it turns out to be better than the spray cans.

Borrowed AB from friend was far more better than using spray cans and you also save a lot of money which you no need to buy an AB for yourself.

You talking about the branded stuff right because china made turtle compressor set just around rm 200.

Just one thing to note even with the tank, it will broke down if under constant heavy use. Like mine broke down a few months ago , now i put a fan directly on it so it cool down faster.

I see... maybe you have to post some pic of your AB on your blog so I can actually see how is it look like. The outcome was quite good from what I've seen from your model. Or maybe even let me know where you get it.

Probably when i finish my painting on my two Jesta but i get the AB set and hobby stuff from tytroum in the forum sale section

Alright, your project first then only show me both your project and also the AB. And thanks for the info.

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This post has been edited by ayonan: Aug 5 2013, 10:07 PM

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This post has been edited by ayonan: Aug 5 2013, 10:08 PM

Can anyone advice if my understanding is correct.

I paint silver coat first on a plastic surface than I paint over the silver coat with clear dark blue coat on top of it, I will be able to get a metallic like dark blue finish?

I am thinking of doing a metallic dark blue titan finish for my Hi Nu.

This post has been edited by acestoro: Aug 6 2013, 01:57 PM