Not sure if this is the right place.. but anyone know where i can find materials for diorama around shah alam area?
Thanks.
Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v4
Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v4
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Jul 16 2013, 11:44 PM
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#1
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349 posts Joined: Sep 2011 |
Not sure if this is the right place.. but anyone know where i can find materials for diorama around shah alam area?
Thanks. |
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Oct 17 2014, 06:30 AM
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#2
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349 posts Joined: Sep 2011 |
sifu2, wanna ask. is this product available in malaysia or smthg similar to it? Anyone tried it before?
https://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/instant-mold.html and is there a way we can create our own ball joints and other joints parts? Thanks. |
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Oct 17 2014, 11:13 PM
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#3
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QUOTE(Noysan @ Oct 17 2014, 03:25 PM) will the joints be able to move if i mold and cast it?QUOTE(limfreelance @ Oct 17 2014, 03:48 PM) ya QUOTE(limfreelance @ Oct 17 2014, 03:58 PM) hehehehe....got other brand from japan. this oyumaru where to get boss? need ship in from japan? local got?OYUMARU - murah jer. gonna bulk in 1 or 2 kg Oyumaru reusable modelling compound. This resin material is unique and amazing. Totally reuseable again and again. To soften Oyumaru, dip a piece of one in hot water (approx: 80 degrees C/176F) for about 3 minutes. Take the Oyumaru out of the water with a pair of tongs. Dry off with a paper towel. Press your original into softened Oyumaru to make a mould.Wait for the Oyumaru to cool it should be hard but still flexible. Use to make quick moulds for Polymer clay. Precious Metal Clay. Top tip: use a small amount of baby oil to make your original pop out super easy. You can use Oyumaru like a modelling compound you can use it to make beads, charms. Anything is possible. Oyumaru's material is SBS, non hazardous. polymer clay local wangsa maju ada jual the polymer clay need to bake to harden? or just air dry one boss? This post has been edited by tryingtolearn: Oct 17 2014, 11:15 PM |
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Jul 1 2017, 10:32 AM
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#4
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Hi,
Good day all. I initially thought of hand painting my gundam models. Then, I realized that the total cost [especially spray can primers/top coats] would add up quickly. So, I might as well get an airbrush set and try it. However, as I’ve already budgeted to get paints and stuff, I don’t have much budget [about 200 max] left for an airbrush kit. Would this kit be a good starting point? Just to practice and try on airbrushing until I can save up more to get a proper unit. Some questions, sorry it’s quite long. 1. The AB kit linked above doesn’t have a pressure gauge. Would something like this or this work as an indicator? 0.3mm nozzle sufficient for all-purpose usage? 2. For primers, I’ve read it’s best to use lacquer based [if you’re airbrushing]. I’ve read some use Alclad, some Mr Surfacer. Which would be a good option? Mr Surfacer is easier to find. 3. What’s the difference between Mr Surfacer 500, 1000 and 1500? Which should I get for general purpose? 4. I read that it’s best to use Mr Color Leveling Thinner with Mr Surfacer. Can the same be used with Alclad? Do I use the same thinner for cleanup as well? 5. Most importantly, I'm really concerned about this. The thinner used for cleanup, where do you dispose it? You can’t really dump it anywhere, correct? 6. I read that you need mask when spray lacquer based items. What mask should I get? Is this mask good? 7. I’ll be spraying outdoor [only for primers], so I don’t need a spray booth, correct? 8. Do I need a spray booth if I’m spray acrylic paints [Vallejo, Tamiya] inside the house? I’ll be spraying in front of the door [sitting inside the house, but spraying facing outside the house.] 9. People who have pets, how do you keep them away or protect them when spraying lacquer based items? Thank you. |
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Jul 2 2017, 11:43 PM
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#5
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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Jul 1 2017, 11:21 PM) 1. I haven't use that kind of compressor but you don't really need the pressure gauge since mostly only produce 15-20 psi at most which is normal. Beware that they do get hot quickly and require some time to cool them off unless you want to kill it quickly. Hi, 2. Personally i use Mr.Primer Surfacer since it can grip metal as well but really get what is easiest to buy since it don't really matter much between brand as long as it can grip paint and don't peel of easily. 3. The difference between those are how fine the particle is, for gunpla it don't really matter since they don't have much fine line details compare to scale model plane for example. 4. As long it the same as type (lacquer paint with lacquer thinner, Acrylic with acrylic thinner) you should have no problem mixing with other brand but it probably react differently like require more or less thinner to thin the paint. 5. Really just use hardware/ cheap thinner for cleanup since sometimes you use alot of thinner to clean up the airbrush than you spray on your models which get expensive very quickly if you use the brand ones. Plus it alot easier to remove the paint using those. As for dumping them, just get those paint pot to dump into them or dump them in a metal can and leave them there since it will dry off in it. 6. Those mask are very good and what i currently using. Those will last quite awhile just remember to properly seal the mask so no paint smell leak in. 7. Paint booth is more for those paint indoors unless you want the paint smell lingering in the room for hours. 8/9 No matter the type of paint, inhaling paint fume still not recommended. So really better to find a place that people/ pet not frequently move into since paint fume can lingering for awhile. Thank you for taking the time to reply. 1. A friend of mine recently said I might as well get a proper compressor with air tank instead buying a cheaper one [and upgrading later or to be dissatisfied]. He showed this with HD-130 brush. Is this good enough (to last at least a few year)? 2. I'll get Mr. Primer Surfacer, maybe then 1000 version, as a middle ground 3. I'm planning on getting Mr Leveling Thinner as I heard you can use that for lacquer paints and all Tamiya paints. 4. Using hardware thinner for cleanup; wouldn't it damage the o-ring in the brush? [I've read this somewhere]. Or is it fine because the thinner stays in the brush for very short time? Do I just follow this video? 5. Dumping the excess into metal can and leaving them; is the can left open? 6. I've been reading a bit on the mask. I've read somewhere that it's best to use those mask with a filter with P95 rating or above [not N95]. Is this correct? 7. I'm thinking of making a DIY spray booth as I have some parts around. 8. I've also notice that they say nozzle and needle for airbrushes. Are those sold purely for replacement purpose or can I use them to change the size eg. 0.3mm to 0.5mm? Just curious. 9. Most important question; once I buy the airbrush set, what paint should I use to practice it with? Should I just get an extra bottle of paint and use that purely for practice? Once again, thank you for replying. |
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Jul 5 2017, 04:53 PM
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#6
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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Jul 3 2017, 08:43 PM) 1. Those can last for decades if you treat it properly such as remove the air from the tank after you done using it and don't overheat the compressor. Hi,3. Yes lacquer thinner can be used with Acrylic paint but big no no with enamel paint since that will make the paint clump together and very hard to remove. 4. Most airbrush don't really have O-ring nowdays and when they do have one, it inside the body which is hard to reach. Yes that video is valid. 5. Just put in a drawer just to make sure so the smell would be minimize plus avoid other people pick it up and drink it! 6. Certainly preferably P95 if you can get one since you never know what kind of chemical each brand use. 8. Those just for replacement since each AB is set since it mainly the needle that determine the spray diameter. 9. There no need to buy extra, unlike spray can that can only last for 2-3 kit at most, those can last twice as much if you properly mix it. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. 1. Great, will get that model then 2. I will keep note of that. Just another question. Can I premix the Mr Surfacer and keep e.g mix like 60ml in a bottle and use when I prime? 3. I will give it a test with the lacquer thinners and see if it affects the airbrush. 4. Will be getting the P95 filters just to be safe. How often do I need to change the filters? How about the organic filters? Do I change them at the same rate as the P95 filters? 5. Had no idea that airbrushing paint last that much longer. Whenever I see video, it seems like they use quite a bit of it. Thank you again |
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Jul 9 2017, 12:41 AM
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#7
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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Jul 6 2017, 02:03 PM) 2. That also a big no no since it will reduce their lifespan significantly as they dried up faster and make it harder to save the paint since the only way to revive dry paint is adding thinner so adding more thinner on premix paint make it too thin for painting use. Hi, 4. It really depend how frequently you use them. 3M rated their filter to last for 5 years but usual rule of thumb is if you smell the paint even if the mask is seal, it time to replace them. 5. It because you can control the output to minimize overspray and also thinning paint ratio also play a role as the more thinner your paint, the more paint you would use to paint a part. Thanks again for replying. 1. I will prepare only the needed amount then. Better take the time to prepare than to ruin it. 2. I'll keep that rule of thimb in mind. I'm getting a few extra filters just in case. 3. Now I'm kinda concerned about the warranty/repair of the aircompressor from Taobao. I'm thinking of getting either this or this instead. 4. For now I'll be using those Taobao Airbrush first, but when I'm going to upgrade my AB into a better one, which should I get? Thank you again |
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