Hi all sifu here,

i have a question to ask regarding some beginner's technique for gunpla-ing.

i tried several methods to remove the nubs of the parts, all of which are learnt from internet / forum tutorial.

all parts are removed with a small gate connected.
1) hobby knife with sand paper. i sliced the gate with hobby knife bit by bit, then when it is flat i lightly sanded it with 2000-grit sand paper.

2) sand paper only. sand it with a lower grit sand paper till it is flat to the surface, then finished with 2000-grit sand paper.

method 1 still leave a visible mark of white outline of the gate.
method 2 deforms the surface of the parts while the white outline is less likely to be noticed.

i wonder what is wrong, i can't achieve the same result as what was taught online. Can anyone give me some guidance on this? could it be my hobby knife not sharp enough? or the slice is not thin enough?

as i dont think i will try method 2 again since it deforms the surface of the plastic.

actually i did follow the same post, minus the filing, the variety of grit and the tamiya cream, as i only have a nipper, hobby knife & a 2000-grit sand paper.

currently my result is a smooth surface, with a white outline (not a spot) of the nub. So i think painting is the only way to make it totally unseen, huh?

thanks sifu!
looks like i have to experiment on hand-painting

lacquer paint with mr. leveling thinner (with retarder in the mixture)

rayloke

thanks for the advice! but isn't 600-grit will deform the surface? i tried to sand lightly(very lightly), still deform the surface slightly.

nazrul90 thank you! wish to meet you in person to learn a few tricks or 2 for airbrush techniques

hi guys! got a question, if i going to paint metallic paint on my kit (inner frame) what kind of topcoat should i be using?

and by referring to this website on method 1, it mentioned that semi-gloss is needed but i only have gloss coat, can that be used as alternative?
http://gunplacore.blogspot.com/2013/04/tut...paints-and.html

thx, gloss coat will make the metal shines less? that's what i found out from google search though, so nazrul, u tried metallic paint be4? what advise can you provide to newbie like me

may i know if not going to paint the joint (ie: the knee joint, elbow joint), how to make it look metallic? (as i planning to prime->lacquer metallic paint the inner frame, would it be fine if i paint the PS parts (the material which the inner frame is made of)?)

This post has been edited by gundamsp01: Dec 10 2013, 07:49 AM

IC, but when i check my proto zero parts, all of them are made from PS even the inner frame. So, i think thin layer will do, right?

thx!

just curious, what is the most scratch-resistant paint brand you used?

Normally i use lacquer paint and I am using gaianotes but find that this brand is easily scratched...any other recommendation? (modo, finisher's, alchemy, mr hobby etc)

Or if there is any other way to make paint more scratch resistant, please do teach me