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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v4

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shauno
post Nov 21 2013, 10:10 PM

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QUOTE(blueric94 @ Nov 21 2013, 09:51 PM)
No, that wont work.
Most of the sprays usually not transparent, so no matter what colour you use for the 1st coat, when it dries and you spray for 2nd coat, all you see will only be the 2nd coat colour, it will cover totally the 1st coat colour..
I dont think there is any way you can achieve what you want by using spray can, so what you can do is to buy that specified colour, or use hand panting n mix the colours.  tongue.gif
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disagreed. base color will definitely influence how the top color will turn out. that's why people do pre-shading. whistling.gif

Vorador, yes it will work. for a better effect, use a white base for the lighter/brighter red, and grey for a darker red.
shauno
post Dec 30 2013, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(gaiachronicler @ Dec 30 2013, 02:37 PM)
anyway to re-thaw paint that went hard like rock? sweat.gif  i got a lot of paint bottle that becomes top part thinner lower part paint color... sweat.gif
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just add thinner, will work no problem. just remember to use hobby thinner eh!

reason why the paints have hardened is cos the solvent has dried out. adding in thinner should fix it thumbup.gif
shauno
post Jan 3 2014, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(shrike @ Jan 2 2014, 09:06 PM)
Hi guys, need some pointers on epoxy putty. Recently I bought Tamiya Epoxy Smooth Surface (short strips for around RM20) which fulfilled my requirements since it has a long working time. However, I'm still searching for less costly alternatives at the hardware stores but the longest working time that I found was at most an hour and apparently Kneadatite (aka Green Stuff back when it was repackaged and sold by Games Workshop) and Aves isn't sold in Malaysian stores.

The closest thing I found is Gale Force Grey Stuff (RM70) at Comics Mart in Mid Valley Megamall but I would like to find other brands of epoxy putty that is good for sculpting work and with a long working time which may exist out there.
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if i'm not wrong, you can also get green stuff in multifilla, balakong.
shauno
post Jan 24 2014, 05:31 PM

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QUOTE(limfreelance @ Jan 24 2014, 11:27 AM)
hi

any one have try this??
Kosutte Gin San powder.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


the effect is really awesome....but my questions is?  hmm.gif

1) after done the work, if play the or figure touch the powder, does it defect?
2) if top a clear coat, does it affect the chrome?

thx
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simple answer,

1) yes. avoid touching or playing with parts which you have chromed
2) yes. ginsan is the last layer. avoid having anything on top of it already.
shauno
post Feb 18 2014, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(vkcy @ Feb 17 2014, 08:28 PM)
I did shake it well but will try again to see if this is the issue. The spray can is new, so don't think is the issue.
Did ask around and some say i need to wash the runner to have better surface, spray primer to smooth en the surface and lastly someone mention that i may spray too near.
Will test around again.
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i actually believe that you're getting that problem because the particles are too big.. were you using industrial spray or hobby spray?
shauno
post May 23 2017, 10:10 AM

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QUOTE(RigerZ @ May 22 2017, 06:59 PM)
Hi everyone! I'm trying out DIY model kits for the first time and currently looking for the paint materials for my models (Tamiya cars).

After reading around the internet I decided to go for acrylic paints.
My first option was Tamiya paints, which I understand can be bought from Tamiya Underground in 1-Utama. But my only free time to go there is during peak hours when it is very congested.

Have asked around a couple of online sellers but none I contacted have Tamiya Paint. One has Vallejo airbrush & lacquer paints, another has Gaia acrylics.

My question is, can Vallejo primer be used with Gaia acrylic paint? Gaia's Surface EVO is so expensive @ RM30 per bottle! Or if anyone knows a shop which sells other acrylic model paints?  notworthy.gif
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Generally, its OK to use lacquers under a weaker paint like acrylic.

Rule of thumb on paint strength is as below
Lacquer>enamel>acrylic

You can layer weaker paint on top of stronger ones. ie can use enamel on top of lacquer or acrylic on top of enamel. However, not advised to layer stronger paint on top of weaker ones. so, don't put lacquer on top of enamel/acrylic etc etc.
shauno
post May 26 2017, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(RigerZ @ May 24 2017, 07:07 AM)
Primer and lacquer are the same thing? I thought lacquer is the clear coat/varnish on top to make it glossy and protect the paint & decals...

What I meant by primer is this:
user posted image
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Acrylic, enamel and lacquer are the types of paint. Difference is the solvent used to dilute the paint. Lacquer and enamel are generally oil based paint, while acrylic is water based.

You'll be able to find different colors, primers and clear coats in lacquer, enamel and acrylics.

What you earlier quoted of Gaia Evo primer is an example of lacquer based primer, while the Vallejo primer is a acrylic primer
shauno
post May 27 2017, 05:44 PM

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QUOTE(RigerZ @ May 27 2017, 08:04 AM)
Thanks for the information! Regarding oil-based surface primers like Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer, if I were to handbrush the primer, would it be necessary to thin it first? Online instructions only mention thinning for airbrushing.
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Unless explicitly stated, general rule of thumb is that you need to thin all paints.
shauno
post May 29 2017, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(RigerZ @ May 28 2017, 05:35 PM)
This guy is using Mr Surfacer straight from the bottle?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGyIrQfhoGI
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he's using it as putty replacement dude.. doh.gif
shauno
post Jul 11 2019, 04:19 PM

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yup. don't panel line on flat plaint. always on gloss. its been explained before in the past in this thread, so can dig back and see..

 

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