Not sure how to fix after peel off, but I do know how to prevent it. Use Mr.Mark Setter when apply water decals, after that top coat it.
If clear stickers or foil stickers, you wont need Mr.Mark Setter just top coat.

Top coat just a better or professional name for a clear paint lol... Think logically, if you cover your stickers with a layer of paint, it won't be peel off right? Because it was under the paint unless the paint wear or peel off. Cheers.

If you seek for advice online, I don't think must be at Malacca unless you want live demonstration.

I like flat coat metallic colour.

Don't really understand what you trying to ask. But first what grade is it? Which part you want to paint?

Just one little advice, being lazy couldn't be successful, so just follow what onnylam said. Cheers...

I also confused...
But well you already answered his question.

This post has been edited by TheGreatBahamut: Jul 27 2013, 12:22 PM

Get a bottle of Mr. Paint Remover, quite cheap and long longer.

No it can't... But if the one for panel lining then can rub with eraser.

Panel line pen can be remove by eraser, if other Gundam marker or tamiya marker then you will need Mr. Paint Remover to remove. And remember, don't ever ever use Gundam Eraser or Paint Remover on plating kit, like titanium finish, extra finish, etc. it will remove the plating as well. I do have the experience that I accidentally use it on Akatuski and I have to repaint it.

Well, I'm not specifically on gold marker, so far it can remove all marker ink because it should be alcohol/spirit, well it do smell in that way. And yes it can remove paint as well other than marker ink, and also special coating that I mentioned in my previous post. Maybe strong paint like lacquer base a bit hard to remove, I'm not sure though because no way I'm going to use it on my painted kit. Haha

White dot, gap, or nub mark? I'm confused.

You can use any oil base marker to cover the nub mark or white dot as long as the colour close to the plastic.
Still can't imagine what gap you mean, a picture might help.

I think I get what you mean now... You use drill to make the female bigger so male peg can fit in nicely...

Don't be surprise, I'm doing aircraft engineering and we always use these terms...

Yes, you can use Anchor paint or other industrial spray cans for plastic although not really recommended because it might make your plastic brittle. But it would be a good alternative for Tamiya spray cans because Tamiya was damn expensive, buy a beginner airbrush set obviously cheaper. My advice is stay away from Tamiya spray cans if you want to save cost. If you don't know how to utilize your money then you can buy it, because with that money I will buy airbrush set.

But then, spray cans and airbrush were just tools, it depends on your need. If you just started painting, you may use spray cans to see whether you like to custom colour or not, if you really like and will do it frequently or you will get into this hobby seriously then I would recommend you to buy an Airbrush set because you can do various type of painting effect with it which spray can can't do or can't achieve same level result.

There are so many hobby paint beside Tamiya, and a lot of modelers using them as well, do it seem weird? Obviously no... If someone laugh at you if you use spray cans, then you may ask them to show you better paint job that they have did or trying to use spray cans to achieve same effect as yours. But ignore them would be better although this is not my style. If they laugh at your brand, you may ask them to sponsor you Hobby brand spray cans or maybe a high end airbrush set with spare tank. Those modeler who like laugh at other people usually don't have a very very nice skill, they feel proud with their intermediate level in this hobby, there are more skillful modelers that would like to share the proper information in this hobby and you should learn from them.
Cheers...

What I will do is, and the most important step is when you cut the piece from runner. Don't ever ever stress it, if it get bend it will leave white mark on the plastic piece which sanding couldn't remove it.

After I cut it, and no white mark on the piece, I will sand the excessive plastic with files, then use 400->600->800->1000->1200 or above then compound coarse. But be careful with files and P400 sand paper, if you use a lot of force you will sand off the original shape as well.

Well I don't use marker to cover up those nub mark because I don't have much marker and they are not compatible with the plastic colour. If you want to do that, make sure the marker is close to the original colour.
Cheers...

As long as it close to the original colour and also water proof then it do the job well.

You are welcome. I never use Tamiya spray can before but I guess their texture was quite good from what I've seen in some video. But other brand of spray cans can also achieve nice effect. Sometimes I also use cheap spray cans for my model but some colour was high gloss paint, so I have to apply top coat flat if I want the current model have a flat look.

Yea obviously not worth, if spray cans just use cheapo will be enough. But still airbrush set will last longer and save cost, so I planning to get one as well but not able to buy a high end set now.

Ya... but without spare tank also quite expensive.

Borrowed AB from friend was far more better than using spray cans and you also save a lot of money which you no need to buy an AB for yourself.

I see... maybe you have to post some pic of your AB on your blog so I can actually see how is it look like. The outcome was quite good from what I've seen from your model. Or maybe even let me know where you get it.

Alright, your project first then only show me both your project and also the AB. And thanks for the info.