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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v4

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OhNooy
post Jul 6 2013, 10:41 AM

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Guys,
For the sticker that will easily peel off, can I use Mr. Mark Setter to increase the adhesiveness? If not, any other alternative? Thanks!
OhNooy
post Jul 6 2013, 12:38 PM

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QUOTE(TheGreatBahamut @ Jul 6 2013, 11:38 AM)
Not sure how to fix after peel off, but I do know how to prevent it. Use Mr.Mark Setter when apply water decals, after that top coat it.
If clear stickers or foil stickers, you wont need Mr.Mark Setter just top coat.
*
Top coat itself will do the trick?
OhNooy
post Jul 31 2013, 11:16 AM

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QUOTE(verdangilte @ Jul 31 2013, 11:03 AM)
really ?? learn a new thing....

i already try my best to do the nub mark...but still can see that... vmad.gif
step i do normally is..using cutter cut from plastic...den i will use art knife to cut until a little bit left...then 800 sand paper..( but i use normally water proof industry brand sand paper ) den 1200 den 1500...but still can see the nub mark..but when u touch..is just flat at other surface..

so i wonder..i use real touch marker...to touch up a bit..the use a TOP COAT flat style...will it be better ???
*
I always have the same problem with you. I try my best to eliminate the nub marks. After sanding I even rub with Tamiya Compound (Coarse and Fine). It will "somehow" reduce the nub marks but not 100%.
OhNooy
post Nov 15 2013, 02:49 PM

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Actually among acrylic, enamel and lacquer paint, which are the most suitable for gunpla? Especially when some of the parts are made of ABS.
OhNooy
post Nov 17 2013, 01:07 AM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Nov 16 2013, 01:11 PM)
Acrylic:
- Can be thinned with water
- Don't give out hazardous smell
- Really prone to chippings (Need to topcoat)
- Easier to handbrush as well since it have slow dry time

Lacquer
- Very resistant
- Give out hazardous smell
- Mainly for airbrush
- Very quick drying time

I know about ABS become brittle when painted with lacquer issue but so far i haven't have got those problem before.
*
So enamel are not really recommended in this case?
OhNooy
post Nov 17 2013, 01:26 AM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Nov 17 2013, 01:12 AM)
You can use enamel to paint the whole kit but many people use other type of paint because they use enamel for panel lining or a reverse wash which usually don't harm the base paint of either acrylic or lacquer but be warn that enamel thinner is quite strong and if use too many of it, it can strip out the paint or make it brittle.
*
Ahhh so this is why you suggested acrylic or lacquer. I've tried acrylic to hand paint my SD RX-78-2, but I was thinking if it is nice for airbrush or not. Thanks sifu!
OhNooy
post Nov 18 2013, 08:38 AM

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So master Khai62 you usually use lacquer to be the base coat, and use enamel for washing and panel lines?
OhNooy
post Dec 4 2013, 08:31 PM

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For MG kit that has inner frame, how to eliminate seamline of outer armor? I found on youtube are mostly HG kit that has no inner frame, and they glue both parts together only sand it, and then paint it. However with inner frame, the armor cannot glue before hand. How to solve this?
OhNooy
post Dec 5 2013, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(Tsubasa66 @ Dec 5 2013, 11:45 AM)
mg usually don't need glue. unless those old ones
*
Actually I'm trying to eliminate seamlines. Of course MG is able to snap-on without problem, but seamlines are still there, especially outer armor.
OhNooy
post Dec 8 2013, 01:00 AM

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Anyone using this?
user posted image
Will the paint dry up very fast in the bottle? As my progress is very slow, 1 kit take me >1 months to build. So I will only use this accent color not so frequently.

After using, can use Zippo to wash the excess? Since this is enamel. Thanks!
OhNooy
post Dec 8 2013, 10:34 AM

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QUOTE(blueric94 @ Dec 8 2013, 01:10 AM)
Im wondering which process takes so long to complete a kit @@
i took only one day to complete aoshima FC. Mayb Im lacking of professional tools thats why lack of detail and thas why so fast  hmm.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
No la, I take slow time to build so that I won't finish up backlog too fast and keep buying. A way to save money. tongue.gif

QUOTE(Khai62 @ Dec 8 2013, 01:46 AM)
I have this a few month already and still watery and yes you can use Zippo to wash it up since it just a ready made enamel wash solution. Remind me getting the black one since that always sold out. sweat.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Nice. If the paint can keep for few months and still watery, this is a good news! rclxms.gif Thanks master Khai62
OhNooy
post Dec 8 2013, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(blueric94 @ Dec 8 2013, 01:02 PM)
Looking forward to your kit, rmb to share here  rclxms.gif
*
Nah la, my model kits are for SS purpose only. There are many sifus here having much greater jobs.
OhNooy
post Dec 26 2013, 05:33 PM

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When doing panel lining, is it OK to use brown panel line color for the colored surface, instead of black? Currently all my models are using gray for white surface, and black for colored surface. In colors like red and yellow, the black panel lining is like a WOW contrast. Replacing black panel lining to brown, to all color surface (including blue, dark blue), would it be better? Any sample to show by sifus?
OhNooy
post Dec 26 2013, 08:06 PM

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QUOTE(TheGreatBahamut @ Dec 26 2013, 05:44 PM)
So far I only have black panel line pen because no time go buy other colours and no time to build as well. But my opinion is,
-grey panel line for white plastic surface or any place you don't want the panel line look too thick or obvious
-black can use on any colour surface but not suitable for dark colour surface(because you can barely see it) or white surface(thick feel)
-brown is for dark surface so you can see the panel line clearer than using black panel line, and it is a good colour for camouflage build or weathering kit.
It is worth to try and see whether it suit your taste or not. smile.gif
*
Haha, thanks for your reply bro. I was thinking to replace all black panel lining into brown actually, to lessen the contrast.
OhNooy
post Dec 29 2014, 10:13 AM

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Hi guys,
As the RG grade gundams panel lines are so tiny & swallow, will the priming + paint will make the lines are not visible for panel line wash after painting?

Which primer is recommended? I have no airbrush, spray can type of primer is preferred. I will use spray can for the colors too.

Thanks!
OhNooy
post Dec 29 2014, 09:46 PM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Dec 29 2014, 06:45 PM)
I have very little experience with spray cans but it possible that they can hide the panel lines since those tend to spray very thickly.
*
Hi Khai,
What if I spray with extra caution, not to spray too thick. Usually AB don't have such issue?
Thanks!
OhNooy
post Dec 30 2014, 10:16 AM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Dec 30 2014, 01:38 AM)
It can be tricky to control the spray cans since it hard to guess how much pressure to push that spray unless you have something like this:
user posted image

Airbrush don't really have an issue since you can fine tune the spray and can adjust restriction on how much the paint coming out of the nozzle.

As for the Primer question, other than the expensive hobby grade spray can like Tamiya ones, your next best bet is either Anchors or Krylon.
*
Thanks for the suggestion!

Maybe can look into the AB option then.
OhNooy
post Jan 11 2015, 11:32 PM

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As mentioned before, lacquer paint will cause the ABS plastic to brittle. In that case, Tamiya Primer Surfacer spray can is lacquer based, then how shall we prime the gunpla ABS part?

OK if acrylic based primer is suggested to get on ABS plastic, however, how shall we overcome the situation stated in the link? Lacquer/enamel is better to keep away to be on top of acrylic.

Next about top coating, currently I am using Mr. Super Clear Flat (which I supposed is Acrylic/solvent type based on Google). As suggested to lay different paint type for base coat/gloss top coat/panel line wash/flat top coat, how should we utilize the 3 different paint type?

Thanks!
OhNooy
post Jan 12 2015, 08:17 PM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Jan 12 2015, 06:13 PM)
In my experience, lacquer don't make the plastic brittle at all unless you overspray it but you can test paint on empty runner if you not convince. Also all spray paint was lacquer even most of the hobby ones. BTW Mr. Super Clear was lacquer spray, the Acrylic ones is Mr. Topcoat (The small blue one)

As for paint layers, that the perfectionist way of making it. I usually skip gloss coat since gloss paint is good enough for panel wash.
Thanks Khai62 for your input. If not mistaken, you are Gaianotes user right? Which primer you usually use?
OhNooy
post Jan 12 2015, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(Khai62 @ Jan 12 2015, 11:18 PM)
Well majority of my paint stock make of Gaianotes and Mr Hobby which both are lacquer but anyway i usually use Mr. Surfacer 1000 which is also good for painting metal parts as the mixture mixed with some metal primer. I also use Gaianotes Surfacer Evo on some occasion.
*
Thanks for the heads up!

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