Guys, may I ask some technique regarding spray?

Let's say I wanna achieve a darker tone of same color. (i.e, red and dark red)

For the dark red, can I simply spray a layer of dark grey on it, then spray over the same red to achieve darker red?

Thank you in advance!

Thanks man, BTW the reason for my question is this:

   

Also thanks blueric94, you got me. (Yes lazy me are planning using spray can )

disagreed. base color will definitely influence how the top color will turn out. that's why people do pre-shading. 

Vorador, yes it will work. for a better effect, use a white base for the lighter/brighter red, and grey for a darker red.

I wanna use gundam spray can & tamiya spray can. 

Thanks for the advice! But air brush expensive and hard to maintain...

nvm let me think abt it   Consider I will definitely do post shading, so I guess it doesn't matter? 

Hi guys, juz started painting not too long ago.
How is the effect of tamiya acrylic chrome silver?
Possible to make it shiny until i can see my own reflection?

FYI, im going to paint my HG red frame's katana wif it using my cousin's AB

No la, I take slow time to build so that I won't finish up backlog too fast and keep buying. A way to save money.
Nice. If the paint can keep for few months and still watery, this is a good news!   Thanks master Khai62

I'm using the anchor spray paint.

i'm not senpai but can give you some answer.
1. you need primer/surfacer before you spray color on plastic/resin figure.
2. compare to airbrush, normal spray might have bigger nozzle and for can spray (any type), due to the air pressure inside the can changed when you start spraying, you might get uneven result. but still can get a good result if you spray a layer (about 30cm distant according to instruction) and let it dry and spray another layer again and so on.
3. make sure the paint dry before you mask an area and use proper masking tape.
4. for this i'm not sure, maybe is the paint quality, or the color before you spray the "candy yellow" that make the result different.
5. for brushing, to get smooth result you need retarder mild, add to the paint, it slow down the paint dry time, don't try to paint the area with one thick layer, paint it with thin layers.
Here is most of basic plactic model/resin skill you can refer, but i only have chinese version. If you can't read chinese try to figure out from the picture.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-t-fL1rhn...iew?usp=sharing

I also refer to this MIKU build progress most the time:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-t-fL1rhn...iew?usp=sharing

most of the cases for can spray ended up watery on plastic surface is due to paint is too thin because not shake well enough.

other factors would be spraying under non sunny day (yes cloudy and rainy does plays an important role) Also dip spray can in warm water before spray.

As for prime or no prime for my airbrush case no problem also even without washing the parts (for recent bandai kits, but might have paint flaky and peeling off if multi layer paint does not dry totally)

as a rule of thumb try on plastic spoon 1st, the safest way to learn, previously i skip this test and learn my lesson the hard way, spoiled one of my kits and nearly spoiled my other kit that i have invested enormous effort in...
so for your reference:

too watery - paint not thick enough (shake well for your case)
too sticky paint wont lay flat - too thick (i dont think you will have this case unless the spray can manufacturer lost his mind and inject more paint per can)