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Old thread: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/478741

This post has been edited by jhcj: Jul 8 2008, 09:11 AM

eh new threads?? y?

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Added on May 24, 2008, 9:46 pmso fast lol....

1k sticks can tahan for how long normally?

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 24 2008, 09:46 PM

Yay!! 3rd Poster.

From my previous post from the previous thread:


I read you use the sate stick to whole the parts up while painting. What about the parts that kena clip? I currently using all the surgical tools I got from the operating theatre, haha. But the part where the forceps hold, abit susah to paint.

I use satay stick with tack it...

if u want to rescue the "biji biji" part, it all depends on how much has actually melted.

usually if the texture of the paint + plastic melt is already dry, it could be possible to use sandpaper to sand it down smoothly. However, that only can be done if the melting "biji biji" isnt serious.

hi all, may i know what Mr. Hobby color code is use for the gattling gun head.. kinda shinny and nice..

bro just use the gundam marker CHROME price at rm 15..

but gundam marker u nid skills to do until it looks so shiny or else the colour nt balance one...

just shake it for 3 minutes or more before applying it.. then it should be alright..

Just don't paint it like 3 years old kid lar...

its not that hard once you get the hang of it.. like airbrush also..

first its hard.. then you master it.. muahhaahaha

well of course haha... hei naskie u say the metallic chrome gundam marker priced at RM15 ah? lol i bought mine for more than RM15 lol... but mine is not CHROME GUNDAM MARKER, its BM06(300)... same reflective brightness compare to the CHROME GUNDAM MARKER if u ask me...



example of the result using this marker...

(the silverish parts)

the gundam marker is GM 100 (300).. chrome..

mine also chrome...

herez the picture of it><


some say special edition wrapper some say event edition... lol but i believe it is event edition la cuz of the WGP BAKUSEED logo there haha

mine is this one..

yea this one i know but that time only has that so i buy lor since my friend told me it has the same brightness compared to the gundam marker one^^ now only my place here gt stock like yours ad...

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Added on May 25, 2008, 10:37 pmi wondering whey there isn't any gold chrome gundam marker ah?

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Added on May 26, 2008, 1:15 amhi i would like to ask somethin, for comparison between MG Zeta unicorn and Zeta 2.0, which is better and more worth?

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 26 2008, 01:15 AM

hi all, normally how you all clear the mistake after paint the gundam? i mean after i paint with the mr color paint i feel not nice i wan repaint how to wash out the paint ar?

@KingKo: I just paint my primer on again and repaint, haha, Lazy person's way. If the sifus got the CORRECT way, I wan to know also.

One question here: Can we spray overcoat over the decals? Will the decals melt or something?

And finally, I've finished painting, but all the remaining paint, how to store without them drying out? The next time I use them would be probably end of the year.

the correct way if u wan to repaint is......... use hobby thinner(not too much) to clean the paint and then sand it again until it's smooth then prime it and paint it again... tat shud be the way but lot of work

@Lucifer
it is ok to spray topcoat over the decals, no harm done... decals wun melt so easily unless thinner la of cos

kingko>> memang alot of work... thats y becareful when painting...

lucifier>> u can store ur paint in a separate empty clean paint bottle lor if a bit only then u can pour back into ur original paint bottle la.. no side effect one if u store properly....

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Added on May 27, 2008, 12:26 amwalau hei i wan to ask ah... my painted skeleton of mg freedom joint parts' paint come out when i fix up the outer armour on it and move it... liao la now the whole paint part on the joint ruined ad... lol how ah?

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 27 2008, 12:26 AM

Besides marker, can try gunze's metalizer paint. comes with a few color like chrome silver, burn iron and such. the paint is very very liquid, so can apint with a brush. then wait till it's dry, use soft cloth to buff or wipe it lightly, voila! u got chrome like effect.

except chrome silver, which is already light in color before you wipe it, other colors u can create very unique effect. Paint on parts with surface with details, like a car rim or a thruster with lines for example. after the paint dry, u lightly wipe it and u ll find areas u wiped become very chrome like while places where ur cloth cant reach still remain dark. U dont even need panel lineing. and the effect is natural!

Only drawback of these type of paint is,

1. it wont last long few months or a year u ll notice it slowly turn darker. much faster than marker paint.

2. cannot and no need top coat. if u did, u ll find suddenly the silver not silver anymore (Pardon my english )

3. The paint is weak, easily scratch. so no playing with your kits.

This is one common method used by people especially for competition, the effect is the next best thing after real metal and where the kit wont display too long,

Try it out, it's very fun.

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Added on May 27, 2008, 3:23 amfew ways to prevent paint chipping:

number one rule: dont play with your kit. u can slightly adjust your kit to the pose u want to display, and do it carefully, but not like twisting it and trying out different pose. should at least confirm the pose before u paint.

If moving is inevitable, like in magazine the model need to change pose for photography purposes, normally the japanese modellers will do modding. Study carefully on your current kit which part that scratches other parts. For example a hand. easiest part for paint scratch is the joint, at both sides, usually the upper arm connection side. because there r 2 pieces of plastic from the upper arm inner frame clam tightly with the joint. So need to make that particular part in the upper arm frame slightly thinner, so they wont touch the joint at all. then u wont get paint scratch lor

My english is bad, and i m quite sleepy now, hope i make it clear enough

This post has been edited by rayloke: May 27 2008, 03:23 AM

Like wat rayloke said paint will chip off one, even u used the best technology like those car paint, u will also get ur paint scratch or chipped off if it was knock or scratch by something else......

So they is no 100% way to prevent thise stuff frm happening, u either dun play with it or just dun paint it!

If u really want to paint it and still play with it...... then u will need to wash ur kit with detergent (clear of the chemicals and the stain of oil frm ur oily hand), applied the primer layer and let it dried (then same prevent ur oily hand to touch those stuff), applied ur paint, then in the end applied the layer of topcoat.....
If u did it all nicely the paint wouldnt chip off easily but as i mention earlier it will still chip off, areas like the combination of 2 armor or joints will still chip off if u play with it a lot. Just not so easily onli.....

Thanks for all the informations... cause I bought Mr. Hobby Aluminiume Color but it ez to fade out when you touch it..

lol just now what i did is repaint the paint chipping parts and cover it with top coat lor... but as rayloke mentioned, i will try to wider the white outer armor parts that clam on the joint parts to prevent it from scratching each other tomorrow haha... thx yea...

Guys i have a very annoying problem here.... i mixed Mr. Color's Super Black and Flat White at a 1:3 ratio... along with thinner and retarder... i mixed these in a large amount and keep them in a separate bottle.

When i want to use it for hand painting, i notice that when the paint dry, it look like " webs " !! Its like the thing didnt dry properly then leave webs or sumthing like that... no matter how many times i stir or shake the paint still dry into webs when i handpaint... need help ! Thnx !

maybe u should add somemore thinner into it to make it back to the oiriginal state?

Noob question (lol): when you use gundam markers to paint, how easy is it to remove the wet paint if you've made a mistake?

For example, when you use the gundam marker to do panel lining, it is easy to just wipe off the excess with your thumb or a wet cloth.

Can the same be done with the paint markers?

not much experience with it....but most of the paint that i mixed together all will dried up easily even if u use those special container (MR Hobby one) to store them......guess u still have to mix them when u really want them!

can but ur hand will get bloody dirty frm that^^ if cloth then jialat lor cuz paint...

i tot alclad2 metalic or chrome paints quite good?

Question from a newbie,

To do a repaint on a Revoltech Convoy, if possible, what kind of paint should i use?

Since i'm only a beginner, budget and user friendly method would be a better start? Any recommendationg?

Thanks
ps thinking of repainting it to a nemesis

it be a little bit difficult.. but you can always scratch the part where you dont want the paint.. if you wipe maybe on even surface.. but on uneven surface its kinda hard

Yar this is why I'm a little afraid to start painting...cause me noob

Hmm..maybe I try to use some masking tape to cover those areas I dont want to paint and see...

Errr its not that it dries up easily... arrghhh i dunno how to explain how it looks like ... lol... it just looks like " webs " ... and the painted surface isnt smooth... can feel the " webs " when u touch it.... SWT. Sorry but thats the best explanation i can give....

I cant take pic too cuz its too fine to catch on my lousy cam... lol... thnx for the reply anyway. >.<

if thers web appear on ur model after u AB, it means your paint is still too pekat and need to add somemore thinner to it...

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Added on May 28, 2008, 10:08 pmhow many layers of top coat should i spray on my mg freedom so the paint won't chips off? i use AB one not direct from the can cause the nozzle really sucks... (i spray the top coat into the small cup on the air brush then i spray on my kit like spray paint like that... please note that it's kinda thin...)

besides, can recommend any sites for air compressor maintenance tips?

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Added on May 28, 2008, 11:02 pmguys, is that possible to mix tamiya acrylic paint with mr hobby thinner or tamiya thinner mix with mr hobby lacquer paint? if cannot may i know what will happen?

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 28 2008, 11:02 PM

tissue paper works

im also noobie in gunpla but the panel lining isnt as tough as you may think

Err i handpaint, bro... i dont airbrush.. Still got webs appear... hahaha.

Actually top coat 1 coat enuf d la... you cant make ur kit 100% chip -free.... its bound to chip if u like to play alot... i rarely see ppl double coat. Wont it be too thick ?


Tamiya dont have lacquer, btw... so u cant possibly mix Mr. Color Thinner with Tamiya's ENAMEL or ACRYLIC paints... the only lacquer tamiya has is spray cans....

Tamiya's acrylic just use water to thin it... same goes to mr hobby's acrylic ( flat cap )... You can use mr Hobby color thinner for both brands... since were talking about ACRYLIC paints here.

Mr. Hobby's Lacquer ( mohawk cap ) must thin with Mr. Color Thinner....

Tamiya's Enamel must thin with TAmiya Enamel Thinner, obviously lol...

This post has been edited by noob4life: May 29 2008, 01:18 AM

Ok, i also got 1 Noob question.. What if i painted with the GM10 Black Gundam Marker, then leave it for a period it dried liao, then what should i use to remove the paint ? Can it be done using Gundam Marker Remover?

those revoltech stuffs are basically made fr pvc (check the box, usually they'll indicate the material used for the action figure)
if it's pvc, try get a metal primer (from either gunze or tamiya)
after coating it only u can paint it easily. otherwise the paint hard to stick..

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Added on May 29, 2008, 7:40 pmbro.. dun do like dat if u intended to have a clean line.
when u use markers, it's mean to be wipe of when dry not wet.
if it's wet, it's hard to prevent smearing and smuldging..
most gundam markers are easily removed by erasers, worse, use alcohols (or methylated spirit) if u only do lining on bare plastic.
for painted surface (assume acrylic), better use enamel wash/inking.

if u painted with acrylic and stil insist on marker lining, get it top-coat with gloss to protect the paint layer.
then only do lining, clean up with alcohol (be gentle), finish of wth matt or satin (to your liking)

hope it helps..

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Added on May 29, 2008, 7:43 pmadditional.. if u finish off with lacquer then no need top coat prior to marker lining.

all surface has to be smooth preferably gloss if u intend to have a clean line.. rough surface is very hard to clean up..

This post has been edited by erh_teo: May 29 2008, 07:43 PM

ah thanks for this useful tip. now i know whats goin wrong with all the smearing and smudging (if you checked my posted exia/kyrios on the in progress/gallery thread, from the high Q pics that allow clear close ups, the smearing/smudgings are pretty visible )

dude i would like to ask about your line 2 and 3... in line 2, u say i cant possibly mix mr colour thinner with tamiya's ACRYLIC paints but in line 3, u say mr colour thinner can mix with ACRYLIC paints from both mr colour and tamiya brand.... both saying the opposite facts le...

so, which is true now?

in line 2 he is referring to mr color lacquer thinner ...... line 3 he is referring to mr color acrylic thinner .......

can someone help i 'm thinking to build a diorama house

Errm to clarify my previous post... im using the ORIGINAL names of the thinner...

MR. COLOR THINNER is used to thin lacquer paints.

EXAMPLE : http://www.xl-shop.com/xlshop/pages/produc...ctId=MRH-545817



MR. HOBBY COLOR THINNER is used to thin acrylics.

EXAMPLE : http://www.xl-shop.com/xlshop/pages/produc...uctId=HC-519495



Clear ? Take note of the names....



This post has been edited by noob4life: May 30 2008, 01:32 PM

wana ask is oil based paint = laquer ???
ididnt notice Mr.color paint is oil based last time ,waster few ml of paint after i add tamiya thinner into causing it to cluttered and wasted a metal painting pan

hmmm and the mr hobby water based paint not that really can mixed with water after i add some water got some "tindak balas" like boiling hot water but wasted the paint .....i saw this from a hobby meg ask us to add water.... so i guess malaysian water is different from japanese water

anyway, water based still need thinner.....

This post has been edited by zefflodo: May 30 2008, 01:40 PM

After the tindakbalas wat happened to the paint ? Cannot use liao ? Just curious. =P

I mix with tap water before leh... and it works fine for me lol. Maybe ur water contaminated or sumthing ?

lol strange......hmmm after tindak balas.....the colour become darker.....then u wait for around 10 min the colur will become powder and sink under water......suddenly like doin school experiment pula

use mineral water la...
tap water sometimes more chlorine..

ya it hink your place just undergo some maintenance one.. so the level of chlorine in the water is high...

hi i have a few question lerr about the mr.color

for the lacquer or the acrylics better ler...??

cos lacquer u need tinner to thin it right.

then the acrylics use water to thin it right.

which 1 is better lerr ? can enlighten me on this arr ??

cos current i got the lacquer type ( mohawk cap )

do some reading..
http://www.naritafamily.com/howto/paint.htm

Been looking for paints to start off my repainting projects.

it seems like these paints are not easy to find. XL shop Mid Valley, Toy City HQ and Branches, few other toy shops....basic colors like flat black, and such seems to be hard to find.

Any sifu here know about the best place to go? like a One Stop place to get all the tools i need?

Thanks

toy city mostly sells tamiya acrylic color only... XL shop mid valley sell things damn bloody exp... if u want a great varieties of paint to choose, go to AF HOBBY Shop at Ampang... U can get all the tools + paints there... the boss is familiar with all the paints and tools so if u not sure u can get some recommendation from him...

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Added on May 31, 2008, 10:50 pmguys. a fully painted MG freedom kit can sell how much ah? 100% paint original animation colour, no weathering + 0% sticker usage...

This post has been edited by edwardgsk: May 31 2008, 10:51 PM

ARGH!!!! I'm having problems with putting on decals.

I think the decals I got with my kit is very old because the paintwork got cracks in it and when I soak the decal... the one straight line become cebis cebis dee... it's that normal? Or am I doing it wrongly.

I've read a lot of sites and I follow bulat bulat what they did.
1. Cut out the decal from the sheet.
2. Soak in lukewarm distill water for 10 secs (until paper curl)
3. Place the decal + paper on tissue paper to let the back dry abit and then put on model.
4. While the decal swimming in the water on the back paper, push the decal onto the model.
5. Once in place, use tissue paper to blot the excess water.

My problem is, once I put the decal in the water, straight away hancur. Is it something wrong I'm doing? All the small small decal can use, but the big ones having problems. I'm currently doing an aircraft carrier (1/720) and the longest decal is about 15cm. I've tried cutting them to shorter lengths and then jigsawpuzzle them back together, but did not work.

What else can I do? When I look at the paint on the decal, I can cracks in them. That's not good right?

On the side note, where can I buy just decals alone? I'm looking for a Revell Nimitz CVN-68 model. I don't mind buying them online, but I google and google and still cannot find any site.

r u sure those decals are water slides???
dun mistaken them....
water slides, the paper background is blue...
dry decals are transparent...

hey guyz~ im thinking of building a beach theme artificial landskape

anyone can give me some heads up on how to do it?

eh? but according to the manual, they say [soak and apply decals].

My background is not transparent, it's brownish yellow and the back paper is like cardboard consistency. I don't think it is dry decal.

This is the first time I heard of dry decals. Will google it and see.

edit: Googled it and found out that it is terbalik and you just rub the decal on. Mine is not terbalik (the number 68 is not terbalik, haha). I really think it is just old... (printed on 1988 according to the copyright sign). Anyway to save it?

This post has been edited by Lucifer_Light: Jun 2 2008, 09:08 PM

Did anyone ever come across with Pelikan Plaka paints? I know Parkson Grand did sell these products but in Ipoh branch they didn't sell Plaka matt water-based varnish.

If anyone did counter this product please let me know where can I get the Plaka varnish around KL. Thank you.

This post has been edited by r28: Jun 2 2008, 09:27 PM

wow... i also wan to do one le...

hmm... maybe like u said lo coz it's very old... 1st time i did water slides tat time, no problem at all...
actually no nid soak so long one... mine less than 10 sec then put on the place.. slide it out..

yo guyz...do u use surfacer (mr surfacer) to check for any defect??mean after u mod,cut thisn that,doing seam removing,then use surfacer to check any defect,n if not satisfied,do some correction,n surface again,until satisfied?? or use the surfacer juz b4 painting,for the defects u all can correct it even without using surfacer.....juz asking coz don hav any talent in doing moding or cut this n that,usually after doin that i'll surface it to check for the defect,than repair it, surface again till i'm satisfied...somtime feel that it is not such an efficient way coz use lot of surfacer..huhu

by da way,donno whether this stuff has been discused b4... ,if yes sory for repeating it back....

This post has been edited by darth.lie: Jun 4 2008, 12:49 AM

that is the correct way if u plan to mod... if u just repaint then surface 1 time enuff d ma unless still can see seam lines..

Hey guys, not too sure whether is this the right place to ask but can anyone help answer my question here? its regarding the pricing of an airbrush kit and compressor. Solely relying on spray paint cans is seriously burning a hole in my wallet. can you guys help me out here? pls?

basically yes, u can prime the surface to check error, cause any small uneven surface will be revealed once u spray surfacer on top. but no need every round la, try to check defects with bare eyes 1st, only when u r very happy with the result, then use surfacer to double chaeck again, like that u wont waste so much lor.....

here

fichtenfoo.com

by the ways... its an expensive method and u waste a lot of surfacer just for that...so think wise if u r a budgeted modeler...

FYI, that specific item was AB with Mr.COLOR SUPER METALLIC:SM07 PLATE SILVER

i'm currently building my clear version Freedom gundam and noticed that those nip marks are really annoying esp if its on the clear parts. I even overdid myself on nipping and trimming some of the leftover sprues on the parts
Need advice on how to properly clean the nip marks without leaving much ugly scratch marks.

u can always use those small bottle Surfacer instead of those spraycans tat is if u got AB

but i heard a lot comments about those superchrome color getting dull very fast....they do last long!

^er, on your last line, they don't last long is it?

the chrome shinny effect tends to oxide through time....and they aint anyway to prevent it!

how bout alclad chrome paints? is it good and isit in malaysia?

well since it is a clear version then u cant sand it or else it will spoil the surface... just use hobby knife and trim it till smooth bah... thats the only way dude...

first off, thanks edwardgsk.. i thought i could fix tht using a P2000 abrasive but then again, i gues not

clear version freedom gundam.. nothing special about freedom's internal skeleton system le... all gray only... maybe u should get a clear version strike freedom... clear version looks god with golden internal skeleton system...

Frens! Which type of Tamiya Compound should i get???
The normal one, Fine or Ultra Fine??? Want to polish my transparent SD kit!

A bit hard to answer le, because......

Compound is like sand paper, in liquid form.

So depends on what kinda effect u want lor...... for the really shiny and smooth surface, usually used for car model finishing, go for the finishing compound (Tamiya).
hope that helps....

dunno woh becoz in the HLJ website they onli got Normal Compound, Fine, and Ultra fine.....I am thinking of making my transparent SD gundam look glossy and shinny!
So maybe i go buy the normal compound and fine together since just 600yen for one!

if financially ok, is best to do so. just like sanding, sand with lower grid first then only go for higher.

for tamiya, u can check in tamiya undergraound in 1 utama. saw they use to sell there.

yah becoz i read a magazine see them polish those transparent parts until it shine like a new one so want to test to make my SD have mirror effect!

yup ... like what rayloke saids if financially ok with u get all 3 ..... since the proper way to use it is rub ( normal -> fine -> ultra fine ) but if ur lazy just rub fine is enuf .... also take note that it is better u wet sand 1st ur kit b4 rubbing any compound ....

yah hor...thx for reminding me. Do i need the original cloth to rub on the kit??? Or any cloth can do one becoz they also selling one for 2000yen....which i think is kinda of expensive.

spectacles cloth or car polish cloth can di .....

Just as what I was wondering... doesn't sanding clear parts leave damage to the parts?
hmm.. any tips for clear parts on how to uh, make it look nicer (e.g. cleaning the nip marks, etc)?

clear strike version? i thought that one is sold out?

EDITED: reason - googled & found info already on Strike Freedom Clear Ver

This post has been edited by markiemark: Jun 9 2008, 07:53 PM

hey guys, wanna ask i using tamiya enamel for line paneling,
what is the ratio ur guys use to mix enamel with thinner?

panel lining? for gundam? i recomend u to use 0.02mm gundam marker better la... easier and safer to use... gt mistake can correct some more...

he he belum cuba belum tau, sekali cuba lagi mau.....

For this one mebbe some will tell you this and some will tell u that. i recommend u try it yourself. Obviously the paint must be dilute to a level it can flow in tight space, like a panel line. but how thin or dilute, it's totally up to you!

For example, u r using enamel paint black only (without adding other color like brown), the more dilute u will find that the tone of black/gray is lighter. so u can have thousands of tones of color. if u want a natura,l magazine photographed, kinda effect, mebbe lighter. If u want a very graphic novel dark panel line, well, make it less dilute. it's like in water color class, nobody can tell you what color the car you r going to paint. it's all decided by you!

So try it yourself. first, gloss coat your kit, then try lighly touch the tip of your brush onto the panel line. the paint should, by itself, flowing and filling up the gap. Look at the result, if u dont like it, hmmm too dark, use a cotton bud dip with a little tuppertine or enamel thinner, wipe it off!

Play with it, it's really fun! mebbe u can do a purple panel line which nobody ever did and the result is shockingly beautiful?

The main thing is not how dilute so the paint can fill the longkang, everyoine can mix more thinner to fill longkangs, the main thing is what kinda of effect you want to make your kit looks even more professional.

Happy trying!

hehe i tried once on my painted HG justice but the result doesn't turn out like what i wan la... the pressure very hard to control also... by the way... im currently learning it too haha...

thanks for ur opinion...
one question, why need to gloss coat 1st before paneling?

Frens and tutorial out there to teach u how to do gold paint that are really nice??? I want to start paint my Lancelot later on!

good question! i learn this from very expensive and time-consuming lessons............

Basically when u see the surface with a magnifying glass, gloss finish surface is smooth, and distortion of light is less. hence the smoother the surface, the less distortion of reflected light, the more it has a mirrorlike effect, normally we will say, more gloss.

While matt surface, when u magnify it, it's like tar road. the surface is rough, with a lot of small particle sticking out..

The first reason to gloss coat a little before u panel line is to smoothen the "tar road". when we do inking, the paint will try to fill up the panel line, but what if the paint is very matt? it ll fill up the gap between the paint particles too! like when u pour water on a tar road, the water not only will flow on top of the road, but also in between the small rocks. If that happen, and our cotton bud cannot clean all the paint within, we will get a effect normally called "smearing". The paint will smear and it's bad!

Second, a thin layer of coating will help to protect your kit's surface. We spend a lot of time to paint our kit, and after painting, we always try to avoid touching it as much as possible to reduce risk of paint chipping, scractches etc. the smallest single mistake may cause our hours of effort in vain; like scratch by our finger nail.The coating is an extra protection. in dengeki hobby mag, they even go to the extent after each layer of weathering, they spray a little coating to protect.

if u know z3r0717, i know he started using inking method, and after 1 or 2 kits, his panel lining is getting so beautiful.

Check out his entry for this mid year compy, i think he did it very naturally and nice.

(He he z3r0, can refer your kit huh? no copyrite right? )

thanks rayloke to share ur experience
so top coat first, inking then top coat again???

For me panel lining with Enamel is really time saving and easy! U just dip it on to ur kit it automatic feels the line.....want to clean up just used back the enamel thinner to wipe it! And yup u guys need to used Gloss top coat first so it can make it smoother and easier to wipe!


Guys back to my Gold paint question up there.....any advise?

aiks... no la... mine still very messy.. hehe.... anyway, thanks for the compliment..

300078,

theres a few methods for gold paint depends on your desire on what kind of gold u like...

1. if u like the old type of gold, get the mr color no.9...

2. if u wan darker gold, get mr color metallic gold no.217...

3. if u wan "1/100 oowashi/shiranui akatsuki" or "strike freedom full burst mode skeleton system" type of yellow gold, spray a layer of chrome silver on top your kit and then spray a layer of clear yellow on top the chrome silver layer but remember in this method, your yellow layer must be same thick every where or else the thicker yellow paint parts will have a darker yellowish gold comparing to other parts of the painted body... also remember to adjust the yellowness of the yellow by adding clear orange to make it darker...

add clear(no.46) to lighter the yellow but i don suggest you to do so cuz natural gold colour should be yellowish

the third method is tested by myself so it is proved to work but if u wan example pic for it then im sorry cuz i din do it on my kit, i help other people do... please try it on a runner for testing 1st before u do on your kit because it's not that easy... and remember to gloss the surface to make it nicer