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Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here

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erh_teo
post Apr 20 2010, 10:01 AM

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you can't. can only minimise cannot avoid.
thin your paint bit more if you keep having serious orange peel.

zieraq
post Apr 20 2010, 10:32 AM

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I mostly have orange effect problem if I do primer. If I did not prime, the paint went smooth on the surface almost no orange peel at all. I guess thats why most people prefer use spray can for primer instead of the bottle one right?
erh_teo
post Apr 20 2010, 12:06 PM

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If you have orange peel when using primer, then wet sand your primer (after curing) with 1200-1500.
After wet sand, orange peel of paint above primer should reduce.

Try thin your paint and thinner a bit more.
Thicker primer thinning usually caused coarser primed surface.
So when you paint on coarse primer surface, paint also become coarse/orange peel effect.
shauno
post Apr 20 2010, 02:08 PM

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speaking of primers, is it possible to handpaint your primers on? or are the ones in bottles strictly for AB only?
zieraq
post Apr 20 2010, 04:09 PM

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wetsand the primer cool idea thumbup.gif Thx man!

QUOTE(shauno @ Apr 20 2010, 02:08 PM)
speaking of primers, is it possible to handpaint your primers on? or are the ones in bottles strictly for AB only?
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I think u can do so, but the result will not look good. handpaint primer+handpaint paint I think smooth finish is very difficult to achieve. for handpaint the primer should use the spray can.
z3r0717
post Apr 20 2010, 05:12 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Apr 20 2010, 02:08 PM)
speaking of primers, is it possible to handpaint your primers on? or are the ones in bottles strictly for AB only?
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Those are meant for AB only or cover very small sink holes... handpaint will just waste your effort and money.
for alternative, you can use spray cans as what zieraq said
erh_teo
post Apr 20 2010, 05:50 PM

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QUOTE(shauno @ Apr 20 2010, 02:08 PM)
speaking of primers, is it possible to handpaint your primers on? or are the ones in bottles strictly for AB only?
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can.
but that means few rounds of sanding and polishing to get to the smoothness achievable by using airbrushing or canspray.
and many rounds of repeated painting rounds too.

if you are going to handpaint, make sure the thinning is very thin and you have to paint>sand>paint>sand at least 4-8 rounds.

if you are just going to brush primer for the sake of following the standard procedure, my advise is better don't.
waste time waste money.
if you worry ur paint won't stick properly without primer, wet sand ur plastic surface wt 1000grit sandpaper.
if you think it's too troublesome, use can spray blush.gif
shauno
post Apr 20 2010, 05:56 PM

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ah.. i see. thanks for the input guys. i normally sand my kits before i paint, but thought i'd try priming to minimize troubles. looks like spray can for me until i get my AB biggrin.gif
unpronunceable
post Apr 20 2010, 10:41 PM

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Q:Is there anyway to melt tamiya thin cement?I ve accidently glued some parts together without realise it.and its not possible to cut it apart cause it will beak a couple of parts also.=.=
z3r0717
post Apr 21 2010, 08:49 AM

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melt it? i don't think so cause thin cement also melts your plastic just very "lightly" lol....
Guess you either cut it or saw it into half again.... if you try putting thinner on it, i guess it'll make things worst
erh_teo
post Apr 21 2010, 10:37 AM

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LOL.. how to melt a joint that is not joined by the liquid itself.
unpronounceable, the thin cement itself is a solvent that melts the plastic so the plastic stick to each other.
if the joint is not too "dead", try apply thin cement and slowly open the joint.
dead = tightly glue = perfectly joined = no way to separate = bye bye


alternatively i've heard people dip the parts inside water, and put into freezer. the expanding ice will somehow force open the seam in between, so making it easier to separate once the ice is thawed.
unpronunceable
post Apr 21 2010, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(erh_teo @ Apr 21 2010, 11:37 AM)
LOL.. how to melt a joint that is not joined by the liquid itself.
unpronounceable, the thin cement itself is a solvent that melts the plastic so the plastic stick to each other.
if the joint is not too "dead", try apply thin cement and slowly open the joint.
dead = tightly glue = perfectly joined = no way to separate = bye bye
alternatively i've heard people dip the parts inside water, and put into freezer. the expanding ice will somehow force open the seam in between, so making it easier to separate once the ice is thawed.
*
Rite thanks bro.I ll try the freezing one since its less messy.Ive also tried future dont turn yellow from the previous post.It only turn yellow when its applied on resin.Link
For some reason i cant upload photos on photobucket.It goes:Upload failed for DSC03213.JPG with error: A network error caused your upload to fail. Please try your upload again.
stanleysum
post Apr 21 2010, 11:24 AM

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i'm wondering whether it is advisable to do like below

1. panel line and apply decal straight from runner before cutting out the parts.
2. top coat with 1 layer and let dry
3. cut out the parts from the runner
4. remove the nubs (using design knife and avoid sanding/filing)
5. use gundam marker to touch up those color parts if needed (except for white part)
6. assembly
7. finish off another top coat.

my untouch gundam collecting dust now
PG 00 Raiser
MG Son Gokou
MG GN-X
Hoi Hoi San
Mega size RX78-2
MG RX78-2 titanium finish <-not collecting dust because still waiting Gwing online to send over tongue.gif

This post has been edited by stanleysum: Apr 21 2010, 11:31 AM
shauno
post Apr 21 2010, 11:39 AM

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guys, another thing. how much different is mr hobby thinner from their paint remover? its almost the same thing right?

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