well for gold ya need clear yellow but for that the gold effect different from the plated 1 abit but seem nicer

yup here is the pic i done b4

compare the direct gold spay between clear yellow

errm i think you misunderstood the meaning of electrolytic because I only can mimic but can't make it

plus : both also painted which 1st one on the left is direct use silver background + gold but the right side i use silver background + clear yellow and both of them come out different terms of gold but i perfer the right 1 because is way better than plan gold

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Jul 30 2008, 12:53 AM

lol maybe you should try AB 1st see how you addict to it but for those Electrolytic Cells i think still no one try on it or have the resourch to try also as those equipment/tool is expensive and i don't think only manufacture have them.

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Jul 30 2008, 01:40 AM

finaly chome war over


but come to 1 most important topic i like to as related to AB methold that is what the MOST effecient way of masking when comes to details part coloring can anyone suggest that? for me i done some research that only best and more effecient masking is tamiya masking tape and fluid sol mask but to apply it is not easy so any expert here got know how to use that is more better way then me >,<? it may help those who want paint 1/144 kits and above

got any comparisen the different between normal and bottle cap brush it help for others understand better

haha i mean got picture bo difference between those 2 brush >,<

hai ay 1st thing to do for all basic to read the instruction how to snap fit 1st then the rest goes on..

later when you snap fit learning along the way.

hand painting easy nia just use retarded thinner can liao the trick is to know how to mix only

actualy you can buy it back or file the missing report from bandai to get it for free. but i forget the procedure already need to search around google to find it back

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Oct 25 2008, 03:08 AM

well you can try at modelland boss maybe he can order some if you request for it.

gaiachronicler from what i know we normally use to drill holes and design knife to cut the plastic. The normal pen knife is not quite suitable for gunpla kits as it may damage or make it uneven the surface. but be warn use carefully as the more shaper and smaller design knife are, the accurate and precise clean cut is...

lol this 1 i kena alot of time.. but in the end need to save up to get a very realiable hand piece.

well actually youtupe is a very good source of tutorials becox almost 85% i also learn from there while another 15% was trial and error experiment.

From my experience hand painting has a very limited option of color and need quite a number of rules to apply or else it will mess up in the end.

weird eh erh teo ?? you go and quote your own message 1 . anyway mixing color for ab is different from hand handpainting due to different thinner and ratio.

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Jan 8 2009, 02:28 PM

maybe because you put the decal too long on the water....

i did experience few decal from bandai not stick properly due to left it at the water too long expecially the small warning sign but it can be solved it with mark setter + top coat.

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Apr 15 2009, 01:06 PM

i'm second to that statement. well from my experience modeler need good tools so that they may able to less accident happen and less hard time need to touch up + it eventually save time + long term cost.

This post has been edited by chriswoo: Aug 17 2009, 02:30 PM

simple there are 2 ways to do it.

1st - use precise cotton dip a bit of thinner (modeling thinner) but keep it dry then wipe it .

2nd - use a tooth pick and scrap away the excess line paint.

notice both of this method is use for OOB unpainted kits. if painted i recommend you use enamel instead of marker.