QUOTE(edwardgsk @ Jul 29 2008, 05:00 PM)
cannot....cement is used to melt plastic so both part can "melt" together...
resin is not plastic...so to glue a resin part, u hav to use AB glue...
Model Kits Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, where the 'deja-vu are tradition in here
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Jul 29 2008, 10:25 PM
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#1
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Jul 30 2008, 11:56 AM
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thanks for explain it....
This post has been edited by sunnyboy: Jul 30 2008, 11:59 AM |
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Jul 31 2008, 08:22 PM
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QUOTE(noob4life @ Jul 31 2008, 08:17 PM) Your paint is not thin enough... put more thinner/ levelling thinner ... nothing to do with retarder mild....If still got web the put some Mr. Retarder mild into ur mixture. ( Sumtimes i use it, sumtimes i dont... lol ) Or just use Mr Leveling Thinner.... cuz the Leveling Thinner alredi has retarder mixed into it... no need the hassle of figuring out how much Retarder u have to put. your paint is too thick, add more thinner......use a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4 |
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Aug 1 2008, 04:58 PM
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Aug 2 2008, 10:16 AM
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Aug 4 2008, 11:25 PM
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QUOTE(noob4life @ Aug 4 2008, 10:45 PM) Guys got a question... can i spray enamel paints onto Mr. Surfacer ? And can i spray Mr. Topcoat over onto enamel paints ? as long the layer is dry...u can overlap it using airbrush.....but dun make the new layer too "wet" as the thinner might melt the color underneath it...will have any side effects ? |
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Aug 4 2008, 11:45 PM
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#7
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Aug 5 2008, 10:04 PM
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Aug 7 2008, 10:48 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(madmoz @ Aug 7 2008, 10:21 PM) Si fu si fu sekalian, yes.....Would the 'chrome gold' painting trick work with other colours? I'm trying to not use the eye stickers for my SD, so am wondering if i paint the eye bit silver and then spray a coat of clear (methinks mr hobby has clear red, clear orange, clear yellow, clear green and clear blue) then i'm all set? u can play along with the clear color for shading as well... like if u hav a red surface model...u can paint clear red for shading... clear color is FUN!!!!! |
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Aug 8 2008, 11:06 AM
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#10
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QUOTE(rayloke @ Aug 8 2008, 10:57 AM) hi guys, anyone of ya have experience with this? u r the guru level in Malaysia, u should get n test and let us know abt it ma.... ![]() 1. how long normally it ll take to oxydised? say stored indoor, in glass cabinet with no direct sunlight nor any source of strong lighting. 2. if any mistake made, any good way to remove? 3. the base color different, will it create different shade of chrome? eg the base color is gloss black vs bas is gloss Green. If someone could help, might save me some time and money. this bugger aint cheap Thanks in advance |
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Aug 8 2008, 12:08 PM
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QUOTE(rayloke @ Aug 8 2008, 11:43 AM) not guru la, just like everyone else, enjoying the hobby while learning new things and hitting the wall occasionally i do notice this stuff quiet some times....from the sampel pic....we just need to hav a very gloss black layer, then apply the powder and rub it....seems simple...ok for more info, i quote what hlj descript about this product: Name: Kosutte Gin-San Maker : Work Discription:You most probably can't cant tell from the name that this material produces one of the best metal finishes I have ever seen. By rubbing the powder onto a surface a metallic finish can be produced. The more you rub the brighter it gets. By changing direction and buffing patterns you can simulate different finishes. Warning: This powder is VERY adhesive. Wear gloves and make sure that you properly mask and cover areas you don't want to have this material on. It is difficult to remove. ************************************************************************************************************************** Of course i ll try it myself, and i m willing to share what i encounter after that. just try to ask around for tips i need to take special precaution so i might be able to reduce unnecessary waste. Also since this work most likely like those metallic paint needed to buff, i guess can create chrome-like effect. 1500yen not mahal...but it's on backordered |
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Aug 13 2008, 12:16 AM
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Aug 13 2008, 11:20 AM
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#13
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Aug 13 2008, 11:33 AM
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#14
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QUOTE(temptation1314 @ Aug 13 2008, 11:23 AM) Instead of keep on saying Mr.Thinner expensive, isn't it better for you to provide another solutions other than Mr.Thinner? errr....me cant find a better solution to remove paint la.....u ingat me GOD meh..... P/S : I use Mr.Thinner to remove paint. Yes, I have to use it damn carefully,not to waste even 1 drop.. u can use brake fluid....super cheap...but later your model become fragile, break into pieces, dont cry.... unless the model kit is very expensive, if not i rather get a new box or get the parts if want to repaint...... |
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Aug 13 2008, 11:54 AM
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Aug 19 2008, 07:17 PM
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Nov 25 2008, 08:11 PM
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#17
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skill most important la.....
u can hav the most expensive tools....no skill...outcome oso like shit.... |
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Nov 26 2008, 12:01 PM
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QUOTE(rayloke @ Nov 26 2008, 11:34 AM) sitting in front of your computer n clicking mouse can give u lots of knowledge, but wont bring u anywhere in modeling. true...no pain no gain......trial n error is the best!, get your hand dirty n u will never forget those stupid mistakes u'd made; will remember them for life............. only bad thing is, it might cost a lot of money if compare to watching youtube................... So for those ask questions n got suggestions by others, make sure to try it out.... wait 1 day i snap my "gundam cemetary" pic...all gunpla that i tortured...haha |
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Nov 29 2008, 09:07 PM
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Nov 29 2008, 10:12 PM
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QUOTE(ozak @ Nov 29 2008, 09:50 PM) Normally I use a stick to see the dripping. If the paint dripping is like a dot and non continues, than the mixture is right. But sometime I do AB with thicker paint. Just increase the air pressure will do. increase the air pressure will mean wasting of paint.....over pressure will end up the paint particle too hazel, your room will be full of paint haze, hazarous oso....reason we use AB is to save paint, not waste it.... |
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