those revoltech stuffs are basically made fr pvc (check the box, usually they'll indicate the material used for the action figure)
if it's pvc, try get a metal primer (from either gunze or tamiya)
after coating it only u can paint it easily. otherwise the paint hard to stick..

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Added on May 29, 2008, 7:40 pmbro.. dun do like dat if u intended to have a clean line.
when u use markers, it's mean to be wipe of when dry not wet.
if it's wet, it's hard to prevent smearing and smuldging..
most gundam markers are easily removed by erasers, worse, use alcohols (or methylated spirit) if u only do lining on bare plastic.
for painted surface (assume acrylic), better use enamel wash/inking.

if u painted with acrylic and stil insist on marker lining, get it top-coat with gloss to protect the paint layer.
then only do lining, clean up with alcohol (be gentle), finish of wth matt or satin (to your liking)

hope it helps..

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Added on May 29, 2008, 7:43 pmadditional.. if u finish off with lacquer then no need top coat prior to marker lining.

all surface has to be smooth preferably gloss if u intend to have a clean line.. rough surface is very hard to clean up..

This post has been edited by erh_teo: May 29 2008, 07:43 PM

for bright colors (white, red, yellow, or light blue), u need to have it use whitebase after priming.
overwise the color coat u apply will turn dark, in other word, it won't show up the color as it shud.
for dark color or metallic color, white base is not necessary.

watever u buy from hobby shop intended for model kit shud be safe.

hardware one if the brand u never try b4 always try on scrap plastics before use it on ur kit. u never know wat will happen without trying..

pylox by nippon has been tried by many here.. so this brand shud be ok.

to answer ur question, the answer will be no.

can.. just be extra careful as their ps is thinner and less solid..
cracking/breaking is prominent if not carefull..

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Added on July 10, 2008, 6:19 pm

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Added on July 10, 2008, 6:22 pmhope above advise from a non-PRO will helps..

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jul 10 2008, 06:22 PM

yes u can.
it's a strong solvent, so it can melt plastic but chloroform is very toxic and cancer-causing chemicals..

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Added on July 17, 2008, 4:04 pmthink z3r0717 said liao.. topcoat can only giv a "flat-coat", if u handbrush paint is very ugly, topcoat oso still visible, not nice and waste ur topcoat..
practice... key is practice.. dun rush

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Added on July 17, 2008, 4:05 pmwat do u mean by not fun?
is not melting styrene or wat?

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jul 17 2008, 04:05 PM

garage sales there was a guys selling, try search function.

ebay.com.my selling one

worse case, try those hobby shop in the pinned thread

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Added on July 18, 2008, 4:34 pmi think those "grainy" being discussed here refers to the finshing of the paint itself.

like those newer hp nowdays, seldom see glossy handphone cover liao..
now they all either satin or semigloss, some got rubbery feel (looks flat)

in fact, u can try handpaint flat color paint, it tends to have a more even finishing than glos paint.
under correct paint consistency and with some practice, shud get satisfactory if not professional finishing

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Jul 18 2008, 04:34 PM

a very good explanation indeed
yes.. if we use paint to ab those chrome effect, we still see the gold sand particles, just diff brand may have diff particle sizes

chrome plating part = no particles

because these are real metal (nickel or chrome).

but not to mislead u guys, chrome plating thru electrolysis is only for metal objects.

for plastics, a process known as "vacuum deposition" is applied for plating plastics

by the way, electrolysis only require the plating solution and ac voltage meter, not really complicated no need to worry about the chemistry part

man.. i'm not going into chemistry but i can tell u no way plastics is plated using electroplating.. it just doesn't work because:

1) there's no current between the circuit set up and the plastic
2) the plastics simple can't release electrons from the set up, hence plating material won't stick to it.

plating plastics utilize a diff process..

the water u need is a salt solution of the material u want to plate.

eg. nickel = nickel chloride

opps.. my mistakes..

hmm.. interesting.. do u have a zoom/close up pic??

that wud help alot for my 4-eyes

untuk me-masking sila guna tamiya masking tape for satisfactory result.

other masking tape can use but sure 100% paint bleed.
although using of tamiya (despite being engineering for paint masking purpose), stil got technique.. ur technique will bring u max 99% masking job coz it's still a masking tape.
only a laser printer can give u 100% perfect separation of colors which of course won't happen to painted gundam kit.

technique:
1) make sure the tamiya masking tape sticks really well to surface and the adhesive side is not contaminated wt ur oil or fiber/hair/dust
2) always spray against the contact point, even if it's a tamiya,heavy spray direct on the line (masking tape edge) will results in some paint bleed..
3) for car 2 tone painting, where u must have a perfect color line separation, before u spray the color, spray with light mist of clear to seal of the minute gap between the adhesive point of masking tape and the plastic surface.. after the clear paint dries then proceed AB'ing as usual. paint still bleed but since it's clear, it won't be noticeable

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Added on August 1, 2008, 1:50 pmbtw.. chris.. wat u asked is actually quite tough to do..

i understand wat u mean.. well.. if u can mask the area by means of handpaint, must well paint it straight.. isn't it tougher to paintbrush mask then only ab??

some ppl jus mod the part so can separate it and ab easily lor..

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Aug 1 2008, 01:50 PM

for red i suggest to spray red and then go wt black

coz it will be too thick to spray black, mask, prime surfacer then go red again..
everything fails, try handpaint.. this is a not to be forgoten and one of the vital skills in modelling.. handpaint

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Added on August 1, 2008, 2:37 pmalso, mostly in hardware u'll find:

turpentine (for enamel paint)
methylated spirit (this can use if u using water based acrylics)
THINNER - for cleaning mr.color (or lacquer based paint)

look for thinner

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Aug 1 2008, 02:37 PM

dear charmy.. those mr.metal color need to be used wt airbrush.. i'm afraid if u buff a handpainted one with b bit diff fr airbrush one..

buff means very lightly rub with something soft like cotton/cloth.. if done correctly.. u might stil get some shine for ur case, ..

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Added on September 8, 2008, 5:06 pmu want to know wat was used to achieve that or how to do that?

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Sep 8 2008, 05:06 PM

surfacer white itself is a surfacer, white base is a "white base", not a surfacer.. in laymen terms.. is to provide a white color base for light color coats, therefore is not a surfacer.
if u use white base without surfacer beneath, is jus paint without priming.

then what's the diff wt white base wt white?
as u know mr. color's white has poor coverage, white base is more opague.
u will likely have less thick coat to compensate for adequate coverage..

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Sep 9 2008, 04:14 PM

as far as i know if u looking for marker, the finest available in market is copic marker @ 0.02mm tip, not sure fine enuf for the eyebrow effect not la..

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Added on September 9, 2008, 4:25 pmthere is diff.. of course there's reason tech guys at gunze have to come out wt both white surfacer and white base.

if u use white surfacer, there's a lower chance to detect kit surface defect as compare to normal grey surfacer.
in this case (unless ur eyes really well trained), white surfacer is merely providing a firm foundation layer b4 painting and oso a flat white base coat so ur paint color later won't run fr it's ori color.

otherwise, surfacer > white base > color

my suggestion:
if u r doing oob and no major sanding and opting for light color like white or yellow, straight use white surfacer
if u r doing major sanding but don really bother if hairline scratch may present, straight use white surfacer
u r a perfectionist then : surfacer > check error > surfacer > satisfy > white base > color coat

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Sep 9 2008, 04:25 PM

it look like this

but forgot where have d

nevermind.. u fr kl right.. just head straight to af hobby..
sunnyboy fr perak la..

wipe off using fingers/tissues or with thinner?
gundam marker oso got 2 type, one with metal on the tip, one is without.
by right it shud be ok since it's gundam marker.
to be sure, try on some plastics and try top coat see the line will smear or not la..
if not sure always try 1st

obviously those markers are meant for highlighting/painting small portions only.. if u use to paint whole thing sure ugly la..

did u ever read the pinned tutorial thread?

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Added on September 24, 2008, 5:50 pmundo ur kit with rubbing alcohol which can get fr pharmaceutical or use "methylated spirit" fr hardware shop. don't use industrial thinner.

and read this http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/488910

This post has been edited by erh_teo: Sep 24 2008, 05:50 PM

correct