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TSnj922
post May 8 2008, 09:48 AM, updated 18y ago

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Hi,

Anyone can advice me on what is 3-phase wiring and what should I do to apply the 3-phase wiring? how much is the cost?

thanks in advance.
WoodStock
post May 8 2008, 09:57 AM

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tnb will welcome you to take 3 phase..
got discount some more..
but then why you want to take 3 phase?
Singh_Kalan
post May 8 2008, 10:08 AM

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QUOTE(nj922 @ May 8 2008, 09:48 AM)
Hi,

Anyone can advice me on what is 3-phase wiring and what should I do to apply the 3-phase wiring? how much is the cost?

thanks in advance.
*
3phase are 415Vac supply (generally for industrial use). Typically there are 4 lines for 3 phase (R,Y,B) + N(neutral). For home user, the normal supply is 240Vac, so in order to get this supply from 3phase, u need to tap either 1 of the phase to neutral. Btw, why u need 3phase for home use?? blink.gif
TSnj922
post May 8 2008, 10:09 AM

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i wish to have cheaper electrical bill...
Do you know how much I need to pay for the application?
b00n
post May 8 2008, 10:44 AM

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QUOTE(nj922 @ May 8 2008, 10:09 AM)
i wish to have cheaper electrical bill...
Do you know how much I need to pay for the application?
*

Where do you get the idea that 3 phase would lead to lower electric bill?
It all depends on your consumptions. You still own the same electric and electronic devices that consumes the same amount of electricity while on 1 phase or 3 phase.

Btw, back to the topic. Look at your "fuse box".
If it's only 1 row of fuses than that's single phase. If it's 3 than it's 3 phase.

Nowadays, most house comes with 3 phases especially landed properties. However, for condos or apartments; a single phase is enough as you do not have many plug points. Ppl uses 3 phase because they have lots of plug points and do not want to overload one single phase of fuse.

dEviLs
post May 8 2008, 12:29 PM

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My new house just changed to 3-phase wiring because we have 5 air-cons and 3 water heaters sweat.gif
WaCKy-Angel
post May 8 2008, 12:39 PM

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QUOTE(dEviLs @ May 8 2008, 12:29 PM)
My new house just changed to 3-phase wiring because we have 5 air-cons and 3 water heaters sweat.gif
*
Yeah for big house that uses alot of air-conds especially then u should make 3phase wiring.

For a normal teres house i dont think there's a need to do 3phase wiring.
TSnj922
post May 8 2008, 01:41 PM

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Hi dEviLs ,

How much do you need to pay for the 3-phase application?
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post May 8 2008, 01:43 PM

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QUOTE(WaCKy-Angel @ May 8 2008, 12:39 PM)
Yeah for big house that uses alot of air-conds especially then u should make 3phase wiring.

For a normal teres house i dont think there's a need to do 3phase wiring.
*
if the teres house got 3 rooms & 1 bathroom...they still could put 3 aircond or 4 aircond if includ the living hall and a water heater....isn't it better to put 3phase wiring
jonglik
post May 8 2008, 01:45 PM

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air-con more than 3 units... recommended to install 3-phase..


tpl66
post May 8 2008, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(nj922 @ May 8 2008, 09:48 AM)
Hi,

Anyone can advice me on what is 3-phase wiring and what should I do to apply the 3-phase wiring? how much is the cost?

thanks in advance.
*
are u a home owner? how many air conds and water heater u have in the house ? to ransform from a single phase to three phase is quite hassle though. get an applications from TNB, increase ur electricity deposit, mine is rm 500.00. Then, get a certified electrician to install extra fuse above the meter.

where u get the information that 3 phase is more energy saving that single phase ?
dEviLs
post May 8 2008, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(nj922 @ May 8 2008, 01:41 PM)
Hi dEviLs ,

How much do you need to pay for the 3-phase application?
*
i cant remember exactly because i did it together with the renovation but i think application plus wiring should be in the region of RM2k unsure.gif


Added on May 8, 2008, 3:36 pmSaw this on TNB website
QUOTE
Promotion To Upgrade Single Phase To Three Phase Supply


"In conjunction with Malaysia 50th Merdeka celebration, Tenaga Nasional Berhad is offering a 50% discount on connection charges for users of single phase electricity supply who wish to convert to a 3 phase supply. The offer is open to domestic and commercial customers only."

http://www.tnb.com.my/tnb/highlights.php?Id=165
http://www.tnb.com.my/cms/jscript/uploads/...n.%20cutout.pdf

This post has been edited by dEviLs: May 8 2008, 03:36 PM
TSnj922
post May 8 2008, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(tpl66 @ May 8 2008, 03:09 PM)
are u a home owner? how many air conds and water heater u have in the house ? to ransform from a single phase to three phase is quite hassle though. get an applications from TNB, increase ur electricity deposit, mine is rm 500.00. Then, get a certified electrician to install extra fuse above the meter.

where u get the information that 3 phase is more energy saving that single phase ?
*
Do you still remember how much you pay for the TNB application?


Added on May 8, 2008, 9:22 pmGot 1 electrician quote me RM750 for the application and RM250 to top up the deposit. Total is RM1000. Is it reasonable?

This post has been edited by nj922: May 8 2008, 09:22 PM
myhat
post May 22 2008, 01:03 PM

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just called Kedai Tenaga Bangi and Kajang
both mention the same thing
if ur normal electricity bill is below RM100....
no need to think of changing to 3-phase
so its like having max 2 air-con and used rarely....the rest use normal fan only....


optiplex
post Jun 9 2008, 09:59 PM

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single phase electric first 200 unit $0.218, >, then 0.289 per unit
3 phase, 1 unit 0.323

New TNB meter can support 100A. Should be enough

err.. how is that cheaper?
rourou
post Jun 10 2008, 08:59 AM

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it's not cheaper.... only use it if your electricity consumption is very high so there'll be enough flow. my house got 4 aircond and 2 water heaters, hence needed it... otherwise tak payah.....
yumyum77
post Jun 10 2008, 01:43 PM

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QUOTE(optiplex @ Jun 9 2008, 09:59 PM)
single phase electric first 200 unit $0.218, >, then 0.289 per unit
3 phase, 1 unit 0.323

New TNB meter can support 100A. Should be enough

err.. how is that cheaper?
*
Where did you get this info from?
optiplex
post Jun 10 2008, 07:23 PM

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From a certified electrician, who currently submitting form to change my single phase to 3 phase at my new shop.

QUOTE(yumyum77 @ Jun 10 2008, 01:43 PM)
Where did you get this info from?
*
PrinceHamsap
post Jun 10 2008, 10:03 PM

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3 phase i dont think will be saving cost

but if u wanna run your heavy load electronics for long hours
3 phase is better then single phase
a6meister
post Jun 10 2008, 10:45 PM

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QUOTE(optiplex @ Jun 9 2008, 09:59 PM)
single phase electric first 200 unit $0.218, >, then 0.289 per unit
3 phase, 1 unit 0.323

New TNB meter can support 100A. Should be enough

err.. how is that cheaper?
*
if u use a single phase or three phase in residential house, the rate is same. first 200 unit at 0.218 and form 201 thereafter will be 0.289. it is standatd.

my house with three phase is using the rate as above and my old man house with single phase also the same rate.

shop, or buisness rate is different as residential area.

SUSeksk
post Jun 12 2008, 04:48 PM

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One thing good about 3 phase wiring is that each phase draws power from different line. Most of the times when my neighbour hood has a blackout, my house will still have electricity. rclxms.gif
sotong168
post Jun 12 2008, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(rourou @ Jun 10 2008, 08:59 AM)
it's not cheaper.... only use it if your electricity consumption is very high so there'll be enough flow.  my house got 4 aircond and 2 water heaters, hence needed it... otherwise tak payah.....
*
single phase could cope your setup at no sweat ler... unless all your aircon is 12000btu & above, after all u dun on the water heaters all the time right? for me, 3-phase is just overkilled...
penguin~
post Jun 16 2008, 10:33 PM

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My old house has 4 air conds in bedrooms and 1 in living room. During night time, all 4 air conds in bedrooms will on together (all 1HP) and for the 10+ years we have not hit any problem.

How do we know if we should upgrade single phase to 3-phase? By counting the no. of airconds & water heater? don't think so right? is it troublesome to upgrade single phase to 3-phase later?

finn@renoku
post Jul 15 2008, 11:22 AM

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For those interested in finding out about 3 phase wiring, here is some info on the RenoKu.com website.

* Deciding on 3 phase or single phase wiring

* Photos of 3 Phase Wiring

In my opinion, it's troublesome to upgrade to 3 phase wiring later. This is because one needs to carry out internal rewiring for the house.

I think the most accurate way to determine if 3 phase wiring is needed is to count the max load at any one time of all the electrical appliances in the house. If say, 4 air-cons are turned on at the same time, then calculate the combined load. Not sure of the way to calculate this but your electrician will be able to give you a better answer. smile.gif
jia jia
post Jul 17 2008, 01:26 AM

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QUOTE(penguin~ @ Jun 16 2008, 10:33 PM)
My old house has 4 air conds in bedrooms and 1 in living room. During night time, all 4 air conds in bedrooms will on together (all 1HP) and for the 10+ years we have not hit any problem.

How do we know if we should upgrade single phase to 3-phase? By counting the no. of airconds & water heater? don't think so right? is it troublesome to upgrade single phase to 3-phase later?
*
i got a client also told me that his house stay normal with 4 air cons on together...
i think maybe have to depend the area's electricity support? hmm.gif
babylabbit
post Aug 18 2008, 08:14 PM

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it depend on your total ampere draw....

it is okie when u open aircond one by one....it wont trip....go try open 4 together...at the same time.
sillylupie
post Aug 22 2008, 07:21 PM

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How do we go about getting 3-phase wiring for a house still under renovation?
Singh_Kalan
post Aug 22 2008, 07:39 PM

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QUOTE(eksk @ Jun 12 2008, 04:48 PM)
One thing good about 3 phase wiring is that each phase draws power from different line. Most of the times when my neighbour hood has a blackout, my house will still have electricity.  rclxms.gif
*
that is if only 1 phase are down (which are quite rare from my experience). If it's cause by substation breaker trip, then all phase down. The reason why TNB encourage domestic heavy user to switch to 3 phase is because of load imbalance (they wanna protect their main breaker from frequent trip and get screwed by domestic user) laugh.gif

Don't see any necessity to change to 3 phase unless they (TNB) pay or subsidies for it. They should pay for this since this is for their own good.

In a residential area, each house electricity are distributed with different phase eg. Yours Red-Neutral, your neighbour may be Yellow-Neutral and the next neighbor Blue-Neutral and so on. When a group of houses eg Red phase are heavy user, this cause the 3 phase load distribution become unbalance. eg Red phase = 200A, Yellow phase = 50A, Blue phase 60A. This may resulting in frequent trip (especially at nite when most ppl are at home). wink.gif

This post has been edited by Singh_Kalan: Jan 12 2009, 11:07 PM
yewkhuay
post Aug 24 2008, 09:34 AM

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QUOTE(sillylupie @ Aug 22 2008, 07:21 PM)
How do we go about getting 3-phase wiring for a house still under renovation?
*
unless the developer offer an upgrade package to do for u, otherwise, u will have to wait till VP
TerTop
post Aug 25 2008, 08:45 PM

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Actually upgrading to 3 phase from single phase would require the following changes as well:

a) Your metering panel. If your original panel is the single phase one, you need to buy a new one. Fibre panel with metal base RM40-60.

b) New cut out fuse + holder 3 sets and 1 neutral link. RM50-80 can settle all.

c) A bigger DB box with 3phase ELCB and MCB/MCCB modules. Depending whether yours is 32A or 40A or 60A or 100A, the total cost would be around RM150-200-250-400 depends on brand.

d) No need to rewire your whole house. Just reassign your circuit wiring to each phase according as to balance the load will do. While you are at it, go buy some extra spare SP MCB module. Local less prominent brand woudl cost less than RM10 ea for 16A and below. Recommended brand is Hager, Clipsal, Moeller but more expensive about 40-60%.

e) Runner fees can save up. Go to kedai TNB take the upgrade form and pay the extra meter deposit. Jot down your NC number and ask for the estimator and meter installer's hp number. Normally TNB will give them to you if you ask them. If not call back again and quote ur NC number and ask the hp number again.

2-7 weeks later the TNB guy will come to your house and install the meter. Time frame can be varying wildly depending on how busy is the technician assigned to you.

If your incoming is not originally 3phase, be prepared to pay some RM1-2K for the contribution charges to TNB after the estimator submit their report back to TNB.

This post has been edited by TerTop: Aug 25 2008, 08:46 PM
kimyee73
post Dec 16 2008, 10:46 AM

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I just want to relate my experience with 3-phase installation in my new house. Instead of applying for 1-phase and later found that I need to upgrade to 3-phase, I want to install 3-phase from the start since I'll probably install 7 airconds and 4 water heaters.

Call up developer and they said my house is 3-phase ready i.e., just need to apply 3-phase from TNB. No other changes required. I called up TNB last week and they said I need to get an electrical contractor to apply for me, can't do it myself. The deposit is rm800 for 3-phase vs rm600 for single phase. Contacted the original electrical contractor for the housing project and paid rm200 fee for the application. End of story, so I thought.

Yesterday the contractor called me up and said my application has been successfully submitted and I need to change the DB to 3-phase since they provided only 1-phase DB for the project. I told them the developer said it is 3-phase ready and I don't need to change anything else but the contractor confirmed that it is just 1-phase DB as they are the one who install it for the project. Apparently only the meter panel/cutout is 3-phase ready and not the DB. Called up the developer again about it and now they said the same as what the contractor have just told me, outside from TNB is 3-phase ready but inside the house is 1-phase only.

For the same contractor to replace it for me, they would charge rm850. DB brand is Doebke from Germany. My total cost in installing 3-phase is now rm200 (application fee) + rm850 (DB change) + rm200 (TNB deposit differences) = rm1250. I'll plan pay in next couple of days. Do you guys think rm850 is fair price or I can get it cheaper from other electrical contractor?
b00n
post Dec 16 2008, 10:49 AM

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DB box is quite expensive.
My friend is changing the DB box for his single fare and it cost around RM600 IIRC.
Sitting Duck
post Dec 23 2008, 08:29 AM

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Hi All,

My house is currently in a blackout now. I have asked the TNB to come and check and they told me that there's power going into the meter but non going into the house. So I have asked a electrician to come over to check but was told that my wiring from the meter to the DB having some problem and needed rewiring again.

The quoted me RM1800 for 3 phase wiring only, without the application with TNB and new 3 phase DB.

So can someone please advice me whether this is reasonable? I'm in desperate need now as my house is in a blackout now.. Some how I feel that the electrician is trying to con me cause I'm in urgent need to install the wiring..

Can some advice me please?
kimyee73
post Dec 23 2008, 10:31 AM

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What does it involved to wire from meter to your DB? Any underground work required ie. digging and hacking required? The cost depends on the amount of work.
Sitting Duck
post Dec 23 2008, 10:42 AM

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Well, the TNB electrician said that the power to the meter is ok. So their job is done and it's their problem. So I hire an electrician and they told me that there's no power coming in from the meter to the fuse box. So it's either the wire was broken or burned. This happened before a 5-6 years back but that time the house was still under warranty, so we could get the developer to changed the wiring which they did. So my electrician told me that they might used a low quality cable or they didn't use one single cable/ use cable that was joint together. So, it's possible that the water went inside the cable and that's why it was burned.

And yes, it involves digging and hacking to conceal the cable...

So it that worth it? RM1800 for this? Btw, mind to share where you staying and your electrician contact number? I'm staying in Kota Kemuning, Shah Alam.


Added on December 23, 2008, 11:00 amJust got a called from another electrician. They told me that even though that TNB side is 3 phase ready, meaning to the power meter. If we plan to use 3 phase, the TNB will still charge us the cabling for the 3 phase meter once we start using it. Is that true?

This post has been edited by Sitting Duck: Dec 23 2008, 11:00 AM
kimyee73
post Dec 23 2008, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 23 2008, 10:42 AM)
And yes, it involves digging and hacking to conceal the cable...

So it that worth it? RM1800 for this? Btw, mind to share where you staying and your electrician contact number? I'm staying in Kota Kemuning, Shah Alam.


Added on December 23, 2008, 11:00 amJust got a called from another electrician. They told me that even though that TNB side is 3 phase ready, meaning to the power meter. If we plan to use 3 phase, the TNB will still charge us the cabling for the 3 phase meter once we start using it. Is that true?
*
That is quite a lot of work. Not sure it is worth rm1800 or not. Did the 2nd electrician gave you a quote as well?

When it is 3-phase ready, all wiring from TNB to the meter panel and cutout fuse would be 3-phase. If your meter panel is not for 3-phase, you have to change that as well. There should be no further charges except to increase your deposit. The additional cabling charge is for house that not 3-phase ready.
tgeoklin
post Dec 23 2008, 05:25 PM

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QUOTE(optiplex @ Jun 9 2008, 09:59 PM)
single phase electric first 200 unit $0.218, >, then 0.289 per unit
3 phase, 1 unit 0.323

New TNB meter can support 100A. Should be enough

err.. how is that cheaper?
*
While the above is correct, the DB box are only able to take around 60A, so in order to benefit, you may need to upgrade your DB Box and add in additional capacitors for optimum performance.

FYI I got 8 Air-Conds in my house and tons of other shit and still on single phase. As overall 100A is still way adequate while certain 3 phase only gives you 30A per phase, making a total of 90A only tongue.gif
Sitting Duck
post Dec 24 2008, 08:04 AM

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QUOTE(kimyee73 @ Dec 23 2008, 04:38 PM)
That is quite a lot of work. Not sure it is worth rm1800 or not. Did the 2nd electrician gave you a quote as well?

When it is 3-phase ready, all wiring from TNB to the meter panel and cutout fuse would be 3-phase. If your meter panel is not for 3-phase, you have to change that as well. There should be no further charges except to increase your deposit. The additional cabling charge is for house that not 3-phase ready.
*
1st electrician quote me RM1800, including hacking and patching back after hacking, including some tiles. 2nd electrician quoted me RM1500 for the wiring + hacking but do not include patching as it will be done by third party which would cost up to RM500. Well, 2nd electrician quote seems to be better, since patching is done by third party which is suppose to be expert in patching up things. But I hate the 2nd electrician's boss attitude cause he was acting very "sombong" in front while talking to me. So I have made appointment with the 1st electrician and ask them to lay the wiring as soon as possible for RM1800.

I talked to both the electrician again and once again they confirm that TNB will still charge the 3 phase cabling from the TNB distribution point to your house power meter even though it's ready. Reason being that TNB has laid the cable and now since that you want to utilize it, so you need to pay for it. So they quote me this:

1) Cable from TNB distribution point to your house meter: Electrician #1: RM1250 Electrician #2: RM2250
2) 3 Phase DB box: Electrician #1: RM350 Electrician#2: RM500
3) Panel Electirician: Electrician #1: RM1000(rough estimation) Electrician #3: RM800
4) Deposit to TNB: Electrician #1: top up to RM1000 Electrician #2: top up to RM800


What I really wanted to know is #1, whether is true. Since most post here say that it's not necesary to pay for #1 since it's ready to your house.

Hi kimyee73, would you be kind enough to pass me your electrician contact so that I could apply through him once my wiring is ready?



kimyee73
post Dec 24 2008, 10:16 AM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 23 2008, 10:42 AM)
So it that worth it? RM1800 for this? Btw, mind to share where you staying and your electrician contact number? I'm staying in Kota Kemuning, Shah Alam.
Forgot to answer the above question. Unfortunately I'm in Penang.

I asked my contractor and TnB before, no further charges...unless they want to spring me another surprise hmm.gif
Sitting Duck
post Dec 24 2008, 10:20 AM

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Aisks..that's too bad...a friend mine told me that there's still a promotion for 3 phase wiring.. need to check TNB directly.. I'll go there after work today..
am_eniey
post Dec 24 2008, 10:41 AM

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for my laundry, i'm using a single phase but a whole new wiring set....even though my 1hp panasonic inverter, 1 dry cleaning machine, 1 normal washer, 1 dryer and 2 sets of iron are switched on from 8am-9pm, my electricity bill is only around RM350.....at 0.408 sen per unit
Sitting Duck
post Dec 24 2008, 12:12 PM

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Wow, that's cheap..

Well, I have one 1.5 HP air con which is only turn on at night around 10:00PM till 6:00AM, 1 refrigerator, 1 water heater (24 hours), 1 PC and 1 washing machine which is used 3 times a week, a TV and that's it.

My monthly electricity bill is around RM200.. which is think is too expensive.. sad.gif
tgeoklin
post Dec 24 2008, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 24 2008, 12:12 PM)
Wow, that's cheap..

Well, I have one 1.5 HP air con which is only turn on at night around 10:00PM till  6:00AM, 1 refrigerator, 1 water heater (24 hours), 1 PC and 1 washing machine which is used 3 times a week, a TV and that's it.

My monthly electricity bill is around RM200.. which is think is too expensive.. sad.gif
*
It depends, newer & more efficient fridge & air-cond can cut yr bill by over 50% and so does adding capacitor onto your DB. Cost more upfront but in the long run much cheaper smile.gif
Sitting Duck
post Dec 24 2008, 12:29 PM

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QUOTE(tgeoklin @ Dec 24 2008, 12:22 PM)
It depends, newer & more efficient fridge & air-cond can cut yr bill by over 50% and so does adding capacitor onto your DB. Cost more upfront but in the long run much cheaper  smile.gif
*
Sorry but can you please explain to me the "adding more capacitor part"? I'm very bad with electrics... I was told that the the plug or capacitor (not sure what is it called, the one that plug into the DB one) that was used by the developer in the DB are really cheap ones. So I was told by electricians to change them but I'm not sure whether it helps to reduce electricity bill if I change them to better ones...so whenever the capacitor burns out,I'll just changed it to something else which the electricians brought to my house and change it, not even sure whether quality of it..


Oh ya, I heard that the new air-cons and fridge, the one that can save bill, is really expensive to maintain as they require different chemical to maintain/service them.. btw, do we need to service our fridge if the fridge is not having any problem and it's cool enough? I have not done anything to my fridge for the past...err..7 years...

Any recommendation?...trying to cut down my electricity bill..


Added on December 24, 2008, 12:38 pmI just noticed this:

http://www.tnb.com.my/cms/jscript/uploads/...n.%20cutout.pdf

Kadar Promosi adalah seperti jadual berikut:

Service Kabel Bawah Tanah:

60A - Kadar Biasa: RM1250, Promosi: RM400
100A - Kadar Biasa: RM2250, Promosi: RM 900

Looks like what my electrician told me it's true, we still have pay the cable from the distribution point to our house even though it's ready...sad.gif

This post has been edited by Sitting Duck: Dec 24 2008, 12:38 PM
tgeoklin
post Dec 24 2008, 04:01 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 24 2008, 12:29 PM)
Sorry but can you please explain to me the "adding more capacitor part"? I'm very bad with electrics... I was told that the the plug or capacitor (not sure what is it called, the one that plug into the DB one) that was used by the developer in the DB are really cheap ones. So I was told by electricians to change them but I'm not sure whether it helps to reduce electricity bill if I change them to better ones...so whenever the capacitor burns out,I'll just changed it to something else which the electricians brought to my house and change it, not even sure whether quality of it..
Oh ya, I heard that the new air-cons and fridge, the one that can save bill, is really expensive to maintain as they require different chemical to maintain/service them.. btw, do we need to service our fridge if the fridge is not having any problem and it's cool enough? I have not done anything to my fridge for the past...err..7 years...

Any recommendation?...trying to cut down my electricity bill..


Added on December 24, 2008, 12:38 pmI just noticed this:

http://www.tnb.com.my/cms/jscript/uploads/...n.%20cutout.pdf

Kadar Promosi adalah seperti jadual berikut:

Service Kabel Bawah Tanah:

60A - Kadar Biasa: RM1250, Promosi: RM400
100A -  Kadar Biasa: RM2250, Promosi: RM 900

Looks like what my electrician told me it's true, we still have pay the cable from the distribution point to our house even though it's ready...sad.gif
*
Not sure how to explain it proper but you are right about the stock DB installed by the developer as being the cheapest normally, which may be just able to pass ratings under normal usage. But there are no capacitors there, which are normally used at all highrise or big buildings to regulate and enchance usage efficiency. If you are a heavy user, then its recommended to install such but may set you back anything from RM2K onwards depending on component type.

I believe you are referring to the different type of gas or coolant used in fridge/air conds as other than the extra invertor added on, which do not require servicing normally, they are really no different from the older models. However, they are of course more expensive somewhat than the regular type. And no aquarium pump if you really want to save power as they are the worst culprits and nothing so far can help much in that respect
Sitting Duck
post Dec 25 2008, 09:00 AM

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QUOTE(tgeoklin @ Dec 24 2008, 04:01 PM)
Not sure how to explain it proper but you are right about the stock DB installed by the developer as being the cheapest normally, which may be just able to pass ratings under normal usage. But there are no capacitors there, which are normally used at all highrise or big buildings to regulate and enchance usage efficiency. If you are a heavy user, then its recommended to install such but may set you back anything from RM2K onwards depending on component type.

I believe you are referring to the different type of gas or coolant used in fridge/air conds as other than the extra invertor added on, which do not require servicing normally, they are really no different from the older models. However, they are of course more expensive somewhat than the regular type. And no aquarium pump if you really want to save power as they are the worst culprits and nothing so far can help much in that respect
*
Sorry, mind to explain the "aquarium pump" part. I do have a fish tank and have 2 small pumps running. I thought it should eat that much of electricity, considering the device is so small.
kimyee73
post Dec 25 2008, 07:14 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 24 2008, 12:29 PM)
Kadar Promosi adalah seperti jadual berikut:

Service Kabel Bawah Tanah:

60A - Kadar Biasa: RM1250, Promosi: RM400
100A -  Kadar Biasa: RM2250, Promosi: RM 900

Looks like what my electrician told me it's true, we still have pay the cable from the distribution point to our house even though it's ready...sad.gif
*
Will update if I need to pay more once the connection is complete in next 1-2 weeks. The contractor will be changing my DB this weekend. After that I'll need to go and pay TNB deposit. My general contractor already told me that the developer is using cheap cable with single layer insulator instead of double insulator. Something I need to pay attention to when comparing quotations for my house renovation later.
tgeoklin
post Dec 26 2008, 01:47 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 25 2008, 09:00 AM)
Sorry, mind to explain the "aquarium pump" part. I do have a fish tank and have 2 small pumps running. I thought it should eat that much of electricity, considering the device is so small.
*
Actually in terms of % consumptions, they are awful inefficient for their size. Further they run 24 hrs non-stop, right? Try tapping them from say a neighbour for a month immediately after your readings been taken and see how much your bill drop by next month wink.gif

This post has been edited by tgeoklin: Dec 26 2008, 01:49 PM
kimyee73
post Dec 29 2008, 08:33 PM

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My aquarium filter rated at 18W and cost me about rm4 per month in electricity. Those pumps for pond would cost much higher.
SUSgogo2
post Dec 29 2008, 08:49 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 24 2008, 12:12 PM)
Wow, that's cheap..

Well, I have one 1.5 HP air con which is only turn on at night around 10:00PM till  6:00AM, 1 refrigerator, 1 water heater (24 hours), 1 PC and 1 washing machine which is used 3 times a week, a TV and that's it.

My monthly electricity bill is around RM200.. which is think is too expensive.. sad.gif
*
That's very expensive. I got 1HP air cond turn on from 8pm to 3am. 1 430liter fridge. 2 water heater
only turn on when take bath. 1 PC. 1 9kg washing machine. 34" CRT TV.

RM40 per month of electricity.

The problem is your 24 hour water heater. Please turn it off. Your electricity will drop to RM50 only
I believe.
SUSSeLrAhC
post Dec 29 2008, 08:52 PM

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what is the maximum wattage for three phase wiring?
Sitting Duck
post Dec 30 2008, 07:42 AM

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QUOTE(gogo2 @ Dec 29 2008, 08:49 PM)
That's very expensive. I got 1HP air cond turn on from 8pm to 3am. 1 430liter fridge. 2 water heater
only turn on when take bath. 1 PC. 1 9kg washing machine. 34" CRT TV.

RM40 per month of electricity.

The problem is your 24 hour water heater. Please turn it off. Your electricity will drop to RM50 only
I believe.
*
Opps, what i mean by water heater is water boiler... those that boil the water and keep it warm for drinking... my bad for not explaining properly... and I have 2 small water pump running for my aquarium.. 1 water heater that is only turn on when taking bath..that's all.. that's why some times we don't know why our house is consuming so much electricity.. sad.gif
kimyee73
post Dec 31 2008, 11:03 AM

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Here is my update thus far. The electrical contractor has replaced my ELCB and Main MCB with 3-phase version (EPS brand instead of Doepke), rewire for 3-phase and in fact removed 2 of my spare MCB to fit into the original box. They did not change the DB box. They also installed 2 additional cutout fuse at the meter panel. All that for rm850, I think it is a rip-off!! Call up the contractor again asking about the 2 missing MCB and missing Main MCB switch. The Main MCB is there but I could not locate the switch. I think it is hidden under the DB faceplate. She said she will ask another electrician to look into it.

I also asked her why the ELCB only shows 63A? She said she applied for 63A and not 100A. I told her if I just need 63A I would not change to 3-phase as it make no difference. Again she said she will check with TNB if still can change to 100A. Called up TNB again asking about diff between 1-phase 63A and 3-phase 63A and was told that 3-phase is better, more stable etc. Not the answer that I want. I think there is no difference as both provides same current. Anyone have different opinion on this?

Now back to waiting again.
SUSSeLrAhC
post Jan 1 2009, 09:57 PM

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well, agree it wont provide much benefit. it might be better as in better for you machinaries but if it still doesnt meet your energy requirement then it is useless.
SUSgogo2
post Jan 2 2009, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 30 2008, 07:42 AM)
Opps, what i mean by water heater is water boiler... those that boil the water and keep it warm for drinking... my bad for not explaining properly... and I have 2 small water pump running for my aquarium.. 1 water heater that is only turn on when taking bath..that's all.. that's why some times we don't know why our house is consuming so much electricity.. sad.gif
*
Actually that's the thing that make ur house consuming high electricity. Can you
try switch that off for 1 month?
Sitting Duck
post Jan 2 2009, 07:41 AM

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QUOTE(gogo2 @ Jan 2 2009, 12:25 AM)
Actually that's the thing that make ur house consuming high electricity. Can you
try switch that off for 1 month?
*
I can't switch off the water boiler.. sad.gif my children need to drink milk....btw, any one can teach me how to calculate the energy consumption for a water boiler or other electrical appliances?
SUSgogo2
post Jan 2 2009, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Jan 2 2009, 07:41 AM)
I can't switch off the water boiler.. sad.gif my children need to drink milk....btw, any one can teach me how to calculate the energy consumption for a water boiler or other electrical appliances?
*
Use gas to heat the water lor. No need to heat 24 hours. icon_idea.gif
kimyee73
post Jan 2 2009, 06:31 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Jan 2 2009, 07:41 AM)
I can't switch off the water boiler.. sad.gif my children need to drink milk....btw, any one can teach me how to calculate the energy consumption for a water boiler or other electrical appliances?
*
Calculating for something that not consuming constant current such as the thermo-pot is quite tricky as it boil the water once in a while and keep the water hot most of the time. Generally rule of thumb for calculating electrical consumption as below.

kWH = W/0.85/1000*H*D*R

where
W = appliance wattage eg. 150Watt
0.85 = typical power factor
1000 = convert to kiloWatt (kW)
H = Hours of operating
D = Days in a month eg. 30 days
R = TNB rate rm0.30/kWH (1st 500 units) & rm0.39/kWH subsequent unit

So if you turn on TV rated at 75W for 4 hours daily for a month, you need to pay

75/0.85/1000*4*30*0.30 = rm3.18

Power factor can vary depending on what is connected to the circuit etc., and there is a device in the market that will improve your power factor, hence lower your electrical consumption.


Added on January 2, 2009, 6:45 pmHere is another update on my 3-phase. Finally able to talk to an electrician from the electrical contractor. He told me my main switch is flush with the MCB body, hence I cannot see it. Will check it out when I visit my new house the next time. As for the 63A, he said it is 63A per phase, hence total is 63A x 3 phase = 190A and that is plenty for me. Not sure if he is bluffing. Anyone here know better?

He also said I would not able to apply for 100A as the TNB fuse setting and underground cable rating is just 63A per phase. If I insist on 100A, TNB need to pull new cable and I have to pay $$$$ for it. They are the housing project electrical contractor, so I tend to believe this. I think I'll let the matter rest for now.


Added on January 6, 2009, 4:13 pm
QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Dec 24 2008, 10:20 AM)
Aisks..that's too bad...a friend mine told me that there's still a promotion for 3 phase wiring.. need to check TNB directly.. I'll go there after work today..
*
How was your 3-phase connection coming along? Mine already confirmed need to pay rm1250 contribution to TNB cry.gif Stupid thing is they don't allow me to pay my deposit together with the contribution. I'll have to make another trip to TNB later.

This post has been edited by kimyee73: Jan 6 2009, 04:13 PM
Vista-X
post Jan 8 2009, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(gogo2 @ Dec 29 2008, 08:49 PM)
That's very expensive. I got 1HP air cond turn on from 8pm to 3am. 1 430liter fridge. 2 water heater
only turn on when take bath. 1 PC. 1 9kg washing machine. 34" CRT TV.

RM40 per month of electricity.

The problem is your 24 hour water heater. Please turn it off. Your electricity will drop to RM50 only
I believe.
*
Wow !! Did u do anything to ur meter ?
Sitting Duck
post Jan 12 2009, 07:46 PM

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QUOTE(kimyee73 @ Jan 2 2009, 06:31 PM)
Calculating for something that not consuming constant current such as the thermo-pot is quite tricky as it boil the water once in a while and keep the water hot most of the time. Generally rule of thumb for calculating electrical consumption as below.

kWH = W/0.85/1000*H*D*R

where
W = appliance wattage eg. 150Watt
0.85 = typical power factor
1000 = convert to kiloWatt (kW)
H = Hours of operating
D = Days in a month eg. 30 days
R = TNB rate rm0.30/kWH (1st 500 units) & rm0.39/kWH subsequent unit

So if you turn on TV rated at 75W for 4 hours daily for a month, you need to pay

75/0.85/1000*4*30*0.30 = rm3.18

Power factor can vary depending on what is connected to the circuit etc., and there is a device in the market that will improve your power factor, hence lower your electrical consumption.


Added on January 2, 2009, 6:45 pmHere is another update on my 3-phase. Finally able to talk to an electrician from the electrical contractor. He told me my main switch is flush with the MCB body, hence I cannot see it. Will check it out when I visit my new house the next time. As for the 63A, he said it is 63A per phase, hence total is 63A x 3 phase = 190A and that is plenty for me. Not sure if he is bluffing. Anyone here know better?

He also said I would not able to apply for 100A as the TNB fuse setting and underground cable rating is just 63A per phase. If I insist on 100A, TNB need to pull new cable and I have to pay $$$$ for it. They are the housing project electrical contractor, so I tend to believe this. I think I'll let the matter rest for now.


Added on January 6, 2009, 4:13 pm
How was your 3-phase connection coming along? Mine already confirmed need to pay rm1250 contribution to TNB  cry.gif Stupid thing is they don't allow me to pay my deposit together with the contribution. I'll have to make another trip to TNB later.
*
So which means we still need to pay $$$ to TNB for the wiring from the TNB power distribution point to our house , regardless whether it's already ready or not.. sad.gif

I paid RM 1800 for the 3 phase wiring from the meter outside the house into the DB inside the home. It's done now and so far there isn't any problem.. (touch wood)..

And thanks for showing me the calculation..some day i really need to sit down and calculate what's the consuming so much electricity...


Added on January 12, 2009, 7:51 pm
QUOTE(gogo2 @ Dec 29 2008, 08:49 PM)
That's very expensive. I got 1HP air cond turn on from 8pm to 3am. 1 430liter fridge. 2 water heater
only turn on when take bath. 1 PC. 1 9kg washing machine. 34" CRT TV.

RM40 per month of electricity.

The problem is your 24 hour water heater. Please turn it off. Your electricity will drop to RM50 only
I believe.
*
I just remembered this, I was told me someone (cannot remember who, a friend, electrcian, TNB, newspaper??) that which one fridge and some basic electronics in the house (tv, lights,etc), the minimum would be around RM40~/month, without air-con that is... so with 1HP air-con that is on about 7 hours a day, can the electricity bill still be at RM40/month??



This post has been edited by Sitting Duck: Jan 12 2009, 07:51 PM
Coconut
post Jan 13 2009, 07:46 PM

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Hm eps brand is almost the cheapest mcb available in the market, changing a few mcb and elcb and charge rm800, thats uber rip-off.

onlinefever
post Apr 7 2009, 01:15 PM

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anyone know how much is the wiring cost if i want to move the electric meter from inside house to outside? old house the meter is inside and tnb can't take reading if nobody at home.
pickytan
post Nov 30 2009, 03:00 PM

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I plan to install 6 air-con to my new house, i wonder single phase electricity can be support or not? Thanks for your kind advice....
brutus
post Dec 1 2009, 07:56 AM

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6 unit of how many HP A/C? are they to be used simultaneously?
PJusa
post Dec 1 2009, 03:46 PM

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pickytan,

this will depend on what kind of a/c and what temp-range. i am running 6 a/c (total load 8 HP), 3 fridges, PC, laptops, TV, dishwasher, oven and some other stuff on sgl phase - no problem. but all electric is inverter/AAA energy rating. all used at the same time. temp range for a/c is 29,28,27 degrees only
Singh_Kalan
post Dec 2 2009, 12:02 AM

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QUOTE(kimyee73 @ Dec 31 2008, 11:03 AM)
Here is my update thus far. The electrical contractor has replaced my ELCB and Main MCB with 3-phase version (EPS brand instead of Doepke), rewire for 3-phase and in fact removed 2 of my spare MCB to fit into the original box. They did not change the DB box. They also installed 2 additional cutout fuse at the meter panel. All that for rm850, I think it is a rip-off!! Call up the contractor again asking about the 2 missing MCB and missing Main MCB switch. The Main MCB is there but I could not locate the switch. I think it is hidden under the DB faceplate. She said she will ask another electrician to look into it.

I also asked her why the ELCB only shows 63A? She said she applied for 63A and not 100A. I told her if I just need 63A I would not change to 3-phase as it make no difference. Again she said she will check with TNB if still can change to 100A. Called up TNB again asking about diff between 1-phase 63A and 3-phase 63A and was told that 3-phase is better, more stable etc. Not the answer that I want. I think there is no difference as both provides same current. Anyone have different opinion on this?

Now back to waiting again.
*
Actually there is a big different in term of power availability between 1 phase and 3 phase. A 63A 3 phase has about 45kW capacity while 63A 1 phase has only 15kW. 3 times the capacity, that's the different. wink.gif Btw please check the incoming cable size or current carrying capacity b4 changing to a larger size ELCB.

This post has been edited by Singh_Kalan: Dec 2 2009, 12:04 AM
chiehlim
post Feb 17 2010, 06:29 PM

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Hi All,

TNB currently has the 3-phase promotion. Has anyone done it before? I have few questions:

1) It stated there 'overhead line service' and 'underground cable' service. Anyone know what does that mean?
2) My guess is if I don't see 3-phase wires (those 3-colour wires) running across it, then it means only single phase right? Then I will need to do the 'underground cable' service, which only cost rm400 for 60A 3-phase wires. Kinda cheap if it is fixed at rm400 regardless of distance.
3) Does TNB actually has to dig the ground from their main switch over to our house. Does it include digging my car porch?
4) Does the new 3-phase meter come free from TNB with this promotion?
5) I am currently renovating my house, and it has 5 bedrooms. I expect to have my worst case usage of running 5x1hp aircon at night. Do I need 3 phase? How much current does modern air conds consume anyway?
6) If all I need is just rm400, might as well install the 3-phase wire and make my house 3-phase ready even though I might not be changing the DB yet. Is this a correct thinking?

Thanks!

Regards,
Lim
PJusa
post Feb 18 2010, 11:42 AM

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thanks for the info. i will check this out for my house smile.gif

i cant answer any of your questions besides 4) though. 5 a/c should not be a problem if you dont use full power setting and inverters. i am running 7 HP inverter A/C 24/7 (but on 28° only) and the normal remaining items (all AAA and above) on single phase wiring and dont have any problems at all.
chiehlim
post Feb 19 2010, 12:11 AM

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QUOTE(PJusa @ Feb 18 2010, 11:42 AM)
thanks for the info. i will check this out for my house smile.gif

i cant answer any of your questions besides 4) though. 5 a/c should not be a problem if you dont use full power setting and inverters. i am running 7 HP inverter A/C 24/7 (but on 28° only) and the normal remaining items (all AAA and above) on single phase wiring and dont have any problems at all.
*
Hi PJusa,

Thanks for the sharing. Based on your experience, seems like I don't need 3 phase though. I checked most aircon branded specs online and they only consume 4-6A (average, not peak), while peak currents can exceed 10A. Peak currents happen when the compressor is starting to run. So using inverter will reduce those peaks and make your current consumption stable like a straight line. If all 7 non-inverter aircons turn on at the same time, the worst case peak current could be 10Ax7 = 70A, which will certainl make the ELCB trip. However, if each aircon is turned on one at a time, then it won't trip.

By the way, what does AAA mean?

Regards,
Lim
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post Feb 19 2010, 09:41 AM

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AAA is the energy rating. we make sure any appliance we buy is at least AAA or higher (lowest consumption). saves a lot in the long run.
Mudtrekker
post Feb 21 2010, 05:46 PM

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I am staying in an apartment and my power supply is single phase.

1) Lately, the fuse inside my unit burned. The electrician who came to do the repair told me the fuse was too small. It was 32A. He changed it to a bigger one, 63A. Is it the right move? (I am not sure is it called a fuse or ELCB or whatever.)

2) Again, I check the fuse beside the TNB meter outside the unit. The rating is only 32A. Is this rating for the fuse correct?

I called up the electrician, he told me both should be 63A. (but he forgot that the outside one was also changed by him some two years ago!)

3) When I touch the outside fuse beside the TNB meter, it was kind of hot, like touching the body of a car under a hot sun. Is it normal?

Appreciate some advices from you all.

Thanks.

Mudtrekker

driftmeister
post Feb 21 2010, 10:42 PM

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QUOTE(PJusa @ Feb 19 2010, 09:41 AM)
AAA is the energy rating. we make sure any appliance we buy is at least AAA or higher (lowest consumption). saves a lot in the long run.
*
how to differentiate AAA and non AAA ratings?
chiehlim
post Feb 22 2010, 09:26 AM

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QUOTE(Mudtrekker @ Feb 21 2010, 05:46 PM)
I am staying in an apartment and my power supply is single phase.

1) Lately, the fuse inside my unit burned. The electrician who came to do the repair told me the fuse was too small. It was 32A. He changed it to a bigger one, 63A. Is it the right move? (I am not sure is it called a fuse or ELCB or whatever.)

2) Again, I check the fuse beside the TNB meter outside the unit. The rating is only 32A. Is this rating for the fuse correct?

I called up the electrician, he told me both should be 63A. (but he forgot that the outside one was also changed by him some two years ago!)

3) When I touch the outside fuse beside the TNB meter, it was kind of hot, like touching the body of a car under a hot sun. Is it normal?

Appreciate some advices from you all.

Thanks.

Mudtrekker
*
Hi Mudtrekker,

I am not an electrician but here's my opinion.

The weakest link of the entire path is the determining factor. Here, your external fuse is 32A, while internal one is 63A, that means your maximum current is still 32A. No point changing just one fuse.

Check your neighbour, what fuse is he using? If your apartment is built with 32A wires, then using 63A fuse has the risk of overloading the wires (might burn).

Fuses are meant to cut your electric supply in the event of overloading. For example, when your heater has short-circuited, huge amount of currents will flow and this will cause the ELCB to trip or the fuse to cut off.

As for #3, no idea about temperature, but as long as the fuse is not cut off, it is ok. Electric current definitely generate heat, and fuses are built to withstand currents up to their maximum.

Having said that, how many electrical appliances are you turning at the same time? 32A is quite a lot for an apartment. Normally air con these days come with just 3-5A rating. So even with 32A, you can run 6 aircons at the same time.

Maybe the fuse is too old and so it burnt and not because of hitting the max 32A? I dunno, maybe you can ask a second opinion from another electrician.

Regards,
Lim

Mudtrekker
post Feb 22 2010, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(chiehlim @ Feb 22 2010, 10:26 AM)
Hi Mudtrekker,

I am not an electrician but here's my opinion.

The weakest link of the entire path is the determining factor. Here, your external fuse is 32A, while internal one is 63A, that means your maximum current is still 32A. No point changing just one fuse.

Check your neighbour, what fuse is he using? If your apartment is built with 32A wires, then using 63A fuse has the risk of overloading the wires (might burn).

Fuses are meant to cut your electric supply in the event of overloading. For example, when your heater has short-circuited, huge amount of currents will flow and this will cause the ELCB to trip or the fuse to cut off.

As for #3, no idea about temperature, but as long as the fuse is not cut off, it is ok. Electric current definitely generate heat, and fuses are built to withstand currents up to their maximum.

Having said that, how many electrical appliances are you turning at the same time? 32A is quite a lot for an apartment. Normally air con these days come with just 3-5A rating. So even with 32A, you can run 6 aircons at the same time.

Maybe the fuse is too old and so it burnt and not because of hitting the max 32A? I dunno, maybe you can ask a second opinion from another electrician.

Regards,
Lim
*

Added on February 22, 2010, 8:39 pmThanks, Lim,

You mentioned that 32A is already too big, now the guy have changed it to 63A. Don't you think it is too much? Will it cause fire to my apartment? I am actually very worried about this.

I need to clarify a bit. Actually my earlier fuse, or shall I call it ELCB, literally burned. It was not just that the fuse broken, but the whole casing like overheated, became black brown and melted. We smelled some burning smell for two days and finally we noticed that the ELCB was having problem.

My next question is, the ELCB was supposed to cut off current when it is overloaded. Why it didn't cut off but it itself melted?
(of caused not exactly melted. The material won't melt but is sort of became black brown, bulged and distorted, giving out burning smell. Normally there is one small capsule inside which we can take out to change, but that capsule cannot even be taken out now. The whole thing now become one single piece fused together).

My unit is having 3 air-cond, 1hp in the small room, 1.5hp in the big room and another 2hp in the hall. Normally we switch on the 2hp daytime, 2 or 3pm till say 9 or 10pm, at 25C, and not continuously. We will switch off for 1hr or so when it becomes too cold and on it back when it is hot.

As for the two small air-con, we normally switch it on 11 or 12 midnight till say 6 or 7am.

At one any time, we never or seldom have all the 3 air-cond switch on together.

We have two heaters too and only switch on when someone is bathing.

The ELCB burned when we have the 2hp & 1hp on and both heaters were running on that day.

Was it a bad move for the electrician to change the ELCB from 32A to 63A ?

Best Regards
Mudtrekker


This post has been edited by Mudtrekker: Feb 22 2010, 08:39 PM
firee818
post Mar 13 2010, 11:30 AM

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QUOTE(Singh_Kalan @ May 8 2008, 10:08 AM)
3phase are 415Vac supply (generally for industrial use).  Typically there are 4 lines for 3 phase (R,Y,B) + N(neutral). For home user, the normal supply is 240Vac, so in order to get this supply from 3phase, u need to tap either 1 of the phase to neutral.  Btw, why u need 3phase for home use??  blink.gif
*
Need some advice...
Recently I brought a 2nd house (terrace corner). The previous owner said the house is connect with 3 phase wiring for the electricity. But I notice that there are only 3 lines were connected to the house (3 phase suppose to have 4 lines). I checked at SESCO (Sarawak Eleciticity Board), they said that the meter number (stated on the electricity bill) is for 3 phase wiring , so I had paid the 3 phase wiring deposit amounting to RM 1,500.00. Did anyone encounter such situation ? I had checked the surrounding of the house or even the row of the terrace, but i didn't notice any additional line connect in. Can single phase electicity being run on 3 phase meter ?? Hope anyone can provide the answer for that . Thank in advance. rclxub.gif
DigitalTech
post Sep 15 2010, 02:39 PM

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I live in a condo with 5 aircons, 1 fridge, washing machine, drier and 2 instant water heater.

1 x 1.5hp
2 x 2.0hp
2 x 1.0hp

Total = 7.5hp aircon

Do you think I need to upgrade from single to 3 phase wiring?
sonerin
post Sep 15 2010, 03:06 PM

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Unless you turn on everything at the same time then you might need to change. Other than that it should be fine.
DigitalTech
post Sep 15 2010, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(sonerin @ Sep 15 2010, 03:06 PM)
Unless you turn on everything at the same time then you might need to change. Other than that it should be fine.
*
you mean all at once?

How about I turn it on one at a time and at the end all the aircons is switched on?

Will there be any problem?
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post Sep 15 2010, 03:39 PM

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It's actually very hard to judge based on number of aircond alone. Things like your temperature setting also affects it.
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post Sep 15 2010, 05:22 PM

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QUOTE(DigitalTech @ Sep 15 2010, 03:23 PM)
you mean all at once?

How about I turn it on one at a time and at the end all the aircons is switched on?

Will there be any problem?
*
What I mean is all the airconds are on even you turn on one at a time. At the end when all the airconds are on that might be a problem.
Then again it depend on the usage of the electric current. As long as the amount of power is within the range of 63A as per standard 1 phase
electricity.
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post Sep 15 2010, 06:38 PM

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My house is with 4 airconds and sometimes all 4 are on at the same time.
Single story house with 3 rooms and 1 living to give an idea why 4 airconds.
Lots of laptops hanging around, at least 4 and 1 PCs. So far with everything on at once including the washing machine; the single phase set up didn't give any problems.
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post Jan 4 2011, 10:43 AM

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if house got 2 airconds (2hp n 1.5hp) with 2 heaters and inverter fridge, do i need to upgrade to 3 phase if want to add 2 more airconds?
acbc
post Jan 4 2011, 10:48 AM

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My parents Semi-D also come with 3-phase as standard. We have 10 aircons, 3 fridges, 4 water heaters and 1 water pump. Average monthly electricity bill is around RM 900 with 4 aircons and 3 water heaters running at night. The rest are running 24x7.
edwardsiow
post Jan 4 2011, 11:28 AM

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I heard the contractor said that 3 phase will save more electricity.. is it true?
acbc
post Jan 4 2011, 04:45 PM

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Nope. 3 phase will lessen the chance of tripping and brownouts only. Contractors will say anything to earn more money.
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post Jan 4 2011, 05:01 PM

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I installed 3 phase because:

1) i have 3 heaters and 8 aircon points (now only install 7).
2) 3-phase installation cost difference is only rm1K+ only (including TNB charges), so just do it and save the headache later.

But generally u don't need 3 phase if only 4-5 aircons+3 heaters, since nowadays aircons use less electricity already. Go for inverter aircons which reduce current spikes and thus will not exceed the 60A maximum rating for 1 phase.
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post Jan 5 2011, 09:06 AM

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wahh.. rm900 per month just for electric bill.. u must be very lich.. but i guess most of the electric consumption comes from water pump and air-con is it?

QUOTE(acbc @ Jan 4 2011, 10:48 AM)
My parents Semi-D also come with 3-phase as standard. We have 10 aircons, 3 fridges, 4 water heaters and 1 water pump. Average monthly electricity bill is around RM 900 with 4 aircons and 3 water heaters running at night. The rest are running 24x7.
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post Jan 5 2011, 10:12 AM

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QUOTE(acbc @ Jan 4 2011, 04:45 PM)
Nope. 3 phase will lessen the chance of tripping and brownouts only. Contractors will say anything to earn more money.
*
the other advantage i heard is that if your area is blackout your house will still be lighted up as the current will be drawn from another 'line'...
PJusa
post Jan 6 2011, 09:40 AM

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numbertwo,

that totally depends on what phases are hit. my area : rarely one phase or two only hit. most of the times all phases are off. but yes, if only one phase hit (and i have no power) my neighbours are with 3phase are lucky still can do whatever cause they have power. but then again TNB is very quick in fixing issues. hardly ever have outages that exceed 30 minutes and outages are really quite rare these days it seems. maybe 1 tops two per year.
edwardsiow
post Jan 6 2011, 12:38 PM

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one of the contractor said because 3 phase can load more in one circuit, like a bus, can bring more people at one round compare to the car, so save electricity.......

pening @@


Added on January 6, 2011, 12:41 pmMy total cost of changing 3-phase..(Not include TNB deposit and contribution) is RM2980, is it expensive?





This post has been edited by edwardsiow: Jan 6 2011, 12:41 PM
numbertwo
post Jan 6 2011, 01:09 PM

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QUOTE(PJusa @ Jan 6 2011, 09:40 AM)
numbertwo,

that totally depends on what phases are hit. my area : rarely one phase or two only hit. most of the times all phases are off. but yes, if only one phase hit (and i have no power) my neighbours are with 3phase are lucky still can do whatever cause they have power. but then again TNB is very quick in fixing issues. hardly ever have outages that exceed 30 minutes and outages are really quite rare these days it seems. maybe 1 tops two per year.
*
true enuf...TNB has surprisingly implemented a few KPIs for their services.. including cutting off my condo's electricity supply within 7 days after the notice! But if I paid the next day at Kedai Tenaga I'm getting back the elec supply by 7PM the same day..lol..super efficient..And I'm talking about similar incidence (means my supply got cutoff twice) happened within 2 mths period.. doh.gif ...
cherroy
post Jan 7 2011, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(edwardsiow @ Jan 4 2011, 11:28 AM)
I heard the contractor said that 3 phase will save more electricity.. is it true?
*
Not true
If said 3 phase motor is more efficient than single phase motor, then yes, but this is different scope.

QUOTE(numbertwo @ Jan 5 2011, 10:12 AM)
the other advantage i heard is that if your area is blackout your house will still be lighted up as the current will be drawn from another 'line'...
*
It just depended which phase you are on.
Like you living room is on Phase 1,
Room is on phase 2,
Then if TNB supply phase 1 is blackout
Your room still light up.
But definitely your living room will be blackout as well.

Btw, your house electric appliance only can use 1 phase. You cannot use 3 phase electricity with single phase motor for your electrical appliances.
You only tap one of the phase to it only.

QUOTE(edwardsiow @ Jan 6 2011, 12:38 PM)
one of the contractor said because 3 phase can load more in one circuit, like a bus, can bring more people at one round compare to the car, so save electricity.......

pening @@

*
Yes, load more, because got 3 wires coming in. biggrin.gif

but your total amount of W usage also more.
And TNB charge you based on W.

No one can defy the basic science of electricity law, Watt = Amp x voltage.

Most important understanding about 3 phase even your house is equiped with 3 phase, you only tap one of the phase to your socket, to your light.
You cannot light up with 3 phase. laugh.gif

3 phase is used because 1 phase is not enough for your house total load. As standard voltage is 240v, and with the wire size capability, there is a limit how much the power delivered.
Remember Watt = Amp x voltage (240)
if you use too many electrical appliance, it just mean you need higher Amp, and there is a limit how much the amp can be carried in a wire size, before it overloaded.

whether 3 phase or 1 phase, all consideration is about how much your load is.

Btw, 3 phase comes with 3 wires.
It is just like single phase x 3, just angular issue is different.

This post has been edited by cherroy: Jan 7 2011, 05:37 PM
yi_min82
post Jan 23 2011, 12:28 PM

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sorry because of my poor english.
some ppl they may have misunderstand something.
if u using a 2.5hp or more than that air-con, pls choose any 3-phase type air-con,more efficensy n save money.some ppl they though their house is 3-phase,than they go n buy a 2.5hp single-phase air-con will save money,thats wrong. u need to c the eer value, some product if even u install an 1hp + 1.5hp = 2.5hp , the electricity more saving than the 2.5hp 1phase, n if u can ,install an 2.5hp 3phases type u can get the more eer value.
y ppl say that 3 phase wiring is more saving form 1 phase?the waste of energy from wire heat
first ,u have to determine how is the maximum amp of ur house will use?..mostly electric appl will show at behind sticker. add up all.
if a max of 60A , and ur house is wiring with 65A wiring, n sometime u feel the wiring will get a bit warm or hot, that the part thats waste energy, so, use an 100A type wiring will save them.always remember, any part of wiring or switch or mcb,elcb,rcb ,fuse bla bla, that all are warm,hot are adnormal, n wasting energy, the cause was:
1.wrong amp rating,wire, mcb,elcb,fuse bla bla.
2. connector connection not tie enough.
3. short circuit bc of mice bit,moist.

so if a 100A of max how?(is that ur house is a factory?).. apply 3phase to dist them.

every house is 3phase ready(even 100years ago), unless the contractor using only a main wire pull from room1 to roon N. bc most of our nation resident using 3phase for dist current only, but not using 3 phase appliance..

This post has been edited by yi_min82: Jan 23 2011, 12:35 PM
PJusa
post Jan 23 2011, 03:13 PM

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sorry yi_min82, but that makes no sense at all.
ramp1
post Jan 24 2011, 11:05 AM

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Hi Friends, My house is using
1. 4 1hp york air con (6 yrs old)+ 1hp new panasonic + 1 1.5hp new panasonic... total 6 aircon(5 1hp + 1 1.5 hp)
2. 1 fridge
3. 1 Washing Mechine
4. 3 instant water heaters (5 yrs old)
5. 1 PC
6. 1 Laptop
7. 2 LCD tv with dvd
8. 8 ceiling fans + 1 wall fan
9. Kitchen exhausting fan

But my house still using 1 phase wiring. Should I change to 3 phase wiring? Experts please advise...
cherroy
post Jan 24 2011, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(yi_min82 @ Jan 23 2011, 12:28 PM)
sorry because of my poor english.
some ppl they may have misunderstand something.
if u using a 2.5hp or more than that air-con, pls choose any 3-phase type air-con,more efficensy n save money.some ppl they though their house is 3-phase,than they go n buy a 2.5hp single-phase air-con will save money,thats wrong. u need to c the eer value, some product if even u install an 1hp + 1.5hp = 2.5hp , the electricity more saving than the 2.5hp 1phase, n if u can ,install an 2.5hp 3phases type u can get the more eer value.
y ppl say that 3 phase wiring is more saving form 1 phase?the waste of energy from wire heat
first ,u have to determine how is the maximum amp of ur house will use?..mostly electric appl will show at behind sticker. add up all.
if a max of 60A , and ur house is wiring with 65A wiring, n sometime u feel the wiring will get a bit warm or hot, that the part thats waste energy, so, use an 100A type wiring will save them.always remember, any part of wiring or switch or mcb,elcb,rcb ,fuse bla bla, that all are warm,hot are adnormal, n wasting energy, the cause was:
1.wrong amp rating,wire, mcb,elcb,fuse bla bla.
2. connector connection not tie enough.
3. short circuit bc of mice bit,moist.

so if a 100A of max how?(is that ur house is a factory?).. apply 3phase to dist them.

every house is 3phase ready(even 100years ago), unless the contractor using only a main wire pull from room1 to roon N. bc most of our nation resident using 3phase for dist current only, but not using 3 phase appliance..
*
The efficiency of 3 phase motor is about how 3 phase motor work vs single phase motor, not primary wire heat issue.

Most residential house is not equiped with 3 phase, you need to apply from TNB only then they will pull the wire.

yi_min82
post Jan 24 2011, 05:01 PM

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QUOTE(cherroy @ Jan 24 2011, 11:28 AM)
The efficiency of 3 phase motor is about how 3 phase motor work vs single phase motor, not primary wire heat issue.

Most residential house is not equiped with 3 phase, you need to apply from TNB only then they will pull the wire.
*
sorry about my language.
wat i mean 3phase in our resident house is not actually with 3phase wiring,it only reach until the Db box. actual 3p wiring for appliances had to have at lease 4 wire (r,s,t,ground),sometime it add 1 more (r,s,t,n,ground),not like 3wire(L,g,n).
eg.acson or york cassette type 4hp.
eg.ceiling type or concealed type
mostly they install at living room.

3phase 4hp, n 1phase 4hp, witch one current using more ?1phase right? so the current flow more n generate heat or lost energy because of resistance. btw,yup, its not primary,but second smile.gif. so conclosion, 3phase save more with 3phase appliances.
b00n
post Jan 24 2011, 09:44 PM

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err, maybe you can try post in Mandarin and we try to translate.
Because I don't really understand what you meant. I bet others are also blured with your statement.

What I understand from your post is you're saying most electric appliance doesn't come with 3 pin plug thus it is not meant for 3 phase? Is that what you are saying?
wdarke
post Jan 24 2011, 10:06 PM

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He's talking about electrical appliances that use 3 phase. Usually, industrial / commercial appliances that needs higher voltages/current. The plug looks different from your typical 3 prong plug. It has 4 to 5 prongs. 3 prongs is for each of the 3 phases.

TNB's 3 phase cable reaches your DB box only, from there onwards, electrical appliances inside your house runs only on a single phase.

About the energy loss via resistance, I am not too sure about that. However, I know 3 phase motors uses less energy than comparable single phase ones.
b00n
post Jan 24 2011, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(wdarke @ Jan 24 2011, 10:06 PM)
He's talking about electrical appliances that use 3 phase. Usually, industrial / commercial appliances that needs higher voltages/current. The plug looks different from your typical 3 prong plug. It has 4 to 5 prongs. 3 prongs is for each of the 3 phases.

TNB's 3 phase cable reaches your DB box only, from there onwards, electrical appliances inside your house runs only on a single phase.

About the energy loss via resistance, I am not too sure about that. However, I know 3 phase motors uses less energy than comparable single phase ones.
*

Thanks for the explanation. Much more clearer now.
So can we conclude that it doesn't save as far as the myth of 3-phase wiring is concerned i.e. only reaches the DB box.

This post has been edited by b00n: Jan 24 2011, 10:44 PM
wdarke
post Jan 24 2011, 10:59 PM

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QUOTE(b00n @ Jan 24 2011, 10:43 PM)
Thanks for the explanation. Much more clearer now.
So can we conclude that it doesn't save as far as the myth of 3-phase wiring is concerned i.e. only reaches the DB box.
*
Yes. Changing TNB's single phase to 3-phase would not help you save electricity. If your house electricity supply has only a single phase, you should only consider going to 3-phase if the total electricity consumption of all your appliances(if everything is turned on at once) exceeds what single phase can safely supply you, which is about 60A I think.
cherroy
post Jan 25 2011, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(yi_min82 @ Jan 24 2011, 05:01 PM)
sorry about my language.
wat i mean 3phase in our resident house is not actually with 3phase wiring,it only reach until the Db box. actual 3p wiring for appliances had to have at lease 4 wire (r,s,t,ground),sometime it add 1 more (r,s,t,n,ground),not like 3wire(L,g,n).
eg.acson or york cassette type 4hp.
eg.ceiling type or concealed type
mostly they install at living room.

3phase 4hp, n 1phase 4hp, witch one current using more ?1phase right? so the current flow more n generate heat or lost energy because of resistance. btw,yup, its not primary,but second smile.gif. so conclosion, 3phase save more with 3phase appliances.
*
Most people residental house do not need a 4HP air-cond.
&
That's why you rarely see 1~2HP air-cond using 3 phase one.

3 phase use less current, but x3 in power calculation. tongue.gif

Yes, 3phase will be more efficient, but 3phase doesn't mean your electricity become 1/3.
Power = amp x voltage, and each phase count.

3p wiring will cause you a bom first, instead of saving. tongue.gif

3p primary is all about high power consumption needed.
yi_min82
post Jan 26 2011, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(wdarke @ Jan 24 2011, 10:06 PM)
He's talking about electrical appliances that use 3 phase. Usually, industrial / commercial appliances that needs higher voltages/current. The plug looks different from your typical 3 prong plug. It has 4 to 5 prongs. 3 prongs is for each of the 3 phases.

TNB's 3 phase cable reaches your DB box only, from there onwards, electrical appliances inside your house runs only on a single phase.

About the energy loss via resistance, I am not too sure about that. However, I know 3 phase motors uses less energy than comparable single phase ones.
*
"About the energy loss via resistance, I am not too sure about that."
resistance in the wire. most contractor cone ppl with the low quality n small diameter wire, it increase the resistance. cause it generate heat, waste the energy n make the wire life shorter. Or , the user didnt mention to the contractor, after that they use it with high current appliances like water boiler, high power entertainment set, laser printer, hair dryer and etc. P.S. notebook consume very low power only.

This post has been edited by yi_min82: Jan 26 2011, 09:50 AM
xngjn
post Jan 26 2011, 11:50 AM

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correct me if I'm wrong. electric bill above 300 should change to 3 phase. if less than 300 then is a waste to use 3 phase.
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post Jan 26 2011, 03:01 PM

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Wrong.. it's the total peak load that you plan to use.

cherroy
post Jan 26 2011, 11:35 PM

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QUOTE(yi_min82 @ Jan 26 2011, 09:49 AM)
"About the energy loss via resistance, I am not too sure about that."
resistance in the wire. most contractor cone ppl with the low quality n small diameter wire, it increase the resistance. cause it generate heat, waste the energy n make the wire life shorter. Or , the user didnt mention to the contractor, after that they use it with high current appliances like water boiler, high power entertainment set, laser printer, hair dryer and etc. P.S. notebook consume very low power only.
*
It is unrelated to 3 phase discussion already.

If a contract want to con ppl with low quality, smaller diameter wire in single phase, the contract also can con people with even smaller dimater in 3 Phase installation as well.

Nothing to do with whether a residential house need 3P or not, or 3P motor is more efficiency or not.
TheUrbNorm
post Feb 7 2011, 04:36 PM

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Sifu,

Can I know if my house is 1 phase or 3 phase based on the meter box above if you all can tell???


This post has been edited by TheUrbNorm: Feb 9 2011, 12:09 PM
jpaul
post Feb 9 2011, 12:04 PM

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QUOTE(TheUrbNorm @ Feb 7 2011, 04:36 PM)
Sifu,

Can I know if my house is 1 phase or 3 phase based on the meter box above if you all can tell???
user posted image
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yi_min82
post Feb 9 2011, 12:58 PM

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one
jojozep
post Feb 24 2011, 03:53 PM

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I have a quote - it is really expensive to convert from 1 phase to 3 phase

especially if one hardly exceed the load factor.


Please give you comments..

1) To supply & install 25mm armoured cable from meter board to TNB pole..hacking and premix back.. rm5500
2) To supply & install 16mm armoured cable from TNB meter to DB box - rm2500
3) Supply and install 3 phase DB box with 60 amp ELCB,60amp main fuse and 32 MCB - rm1500
4)TNB meter submission form - rm1200

I know that item 4 , I can already do myself.

also item 1, looks damn expensive..I already hacked my front yard already--where got hacking charges?
hoilok
post Feb 24 2011, 03:59 PM

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Have my contractor to lay the armoured cable from the access door to guard house area around 10m, there charge abour RM 800 only. Not sure why ur vendor so high cost maybe is very long and done by some local fellow not by major company

QUOTE(jojozep @ Feb 24 2011, 03:53 PM)
I have a quote - it is really expensive to convert from 1 phase to 3 phase

especially if one hardly exceed the load factor.
Please give you comments..

1) To supply & install 25mm armoured cable from meter board to TNB pole..hacking and premix back.. rm5500
2) To supply & install 16mm armoured cable from TNB meter to DB box - rm2500
3) Supply and install 3 phase DB box with 60 amp ELCB,60amp main fuse and 32 MCB - rm1500
4)TNB meter submission form - rm1200

I know that item 4 , I can already do myself.

also item 1, looks damn expensive..I already hacked my front yard already--where got hacking charges?
*
numbertwo
post Feb 24 2011, 04:13 PM

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Item one is very much depending on how close is your meter board to the nearest TNB Pole.. but 5.5K is a lot! My previous quote came to about 8K inclusive everything but we decide not to proceed as there is really no need for that...
jojozep
post Feb 24 2011, 04:14 PM

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QUOTE(hoilok @ Feb 24 2011, 03:59 PM)
Have my contractor to lay the armoured cable from the access door to guard house area around 10m, there charge abour RM 800 only. Not sure why ur vendor so high cost maybe is very long and done by some local fellow not by major company
*
he say 25 mm armoured wire very expensive..

access door - you mean the autogate pillar? because that is where most people relocate their tnb meter...

I thought that major company more expensive than local fellow? He trying his luck with me...?
hoilok
post Feb 24 2011, 04:17 PM

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local fellow is those freelancer type biggrin.gif, for company there charge me about 4.6k as well .
numbertwo
post Feb 24 2011, 04:36 PM

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...i also know that some fellas do it on their own, meaning to register/apply with TNB and get TNB to recommend licensed co. to do the work instead of letting the contractor sucking a bit here n there..within 5K in my area.
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post Feb 24 2011, 04:51 PM

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I think the 3 phase thingy is a only 'fear factor' and will not burn the house down..
True or not? if overload..it will trip...just an inconvenience.
BUT the chance of tripping is slim...unless you are running a hotel in the house.

also preventive measures of tripping like

buy aircond invertor type- less current needed
buy AAA type appliances
switch on air-con not all at once and not all at 16 degree..

correct or not..?
numbertwo
post Feb 24 2011, 05:01 PM

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for a small family (i' mean 2 kids and your the other half) it really serves no purpose..except for one advantage whereby when your area is trip , houses with 3-phase wiring may still draw current from other source and light up your house! how cool eh? So is a 'cool factor too!
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post Feb 24 2011, 11:39 PM

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QUOTE(numbertwo @ Feb 24 2011, 05:01 PM)
for a small family (i' mean 2 kids and your the other half) it really serves no purpose..except for one advantage whereby when your area is trip , houses with 3-phase wiring may still draw current from other source and light up your house! how cool eh? So is a 'cool factor too!
*
When blackout, the likelyhood is always all 3 phase blackout. tongue.gif

Generally, wireman only tap one of the 3 phase for your lighting only.

Like upstair use blue, downstair use yellow.


Added on February 24, 2011, 11:42 pm
QUOTE(jojozep @ Feb 24 2011, 04:51 PM)
I think the 3 phase thingy is a only 'fear factor' and will not burn the house down..
True or not? if overload..it will trip...just an inconvenience.
BUT the chance of tripping is slim...unless you are running a hotel in the house.

also preventive measures of tripping like

buy aircond invertor type- less current needed
buy AAA type appliances
switch on air-con not all at once and not all at 16 degree..

correct or not..?
*
Tripping or not, you can count the workload of device.
It is not about chance or prevent tripping.

Once your total load over the single phase can delivery, a 3 phase is needed, as simply as that.

It is not reducing chance of tripping or not.
Once overload, tripped.

Your MCB got max load factor, aka the max amp you can use, more than that, it tripped.

This post has been edited by cherroy: Feb 24 2011, 11:42 PM
skng03
post Feb 25 2011, 02:37 AM

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QUOTE(cherroy @ Feb 24 2011, 11:39 PM)
When blackout, the likelyhood is always all 3 phase blackout.  tongue.gif

Generally, wireman only tap one of the 3 phase for your lighting only. 

Like upstair use blue, downstair use yellow.


Added on February 24, 2011, 11:42 pm

*
some time only one phase blackout. happened quite frequent in small villages, those who have three phase supply will have the advantage tongue.gif
numbertwo
post Feb 25 2011, 11:40 AM

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true enuf..i envy my neighbours who has lights on during the black-out... but hey..i realise that the current stability of the elect supply is much better than say 5 yrs back(...errr..touchwood) ...so this 3 phase thingy is no longer a need now.

This post has been edited by numbertwo: Feb 25 2011, 11:42 AM
wynners22
post Jul 12 2011, 08:44 AM

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dear all experts here, please give me some advise...

i am planning to upgrade my house electricity supply from 1 phase to 3 phase, so my questions are:

1. it is really needed ?
2. what is the total cost involve? TNB + contractor.


thank you for your advise.
khannaz
post Jul 12 2011, 08:59 AM

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IT'S DEPEND ON YOUR HOUSE EQUIPMENT TOTAL LOAD.........
lj0000
post Jul 12 2011, 09:04 AM

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not sure abt the cost, but its good to have 3phase.
you can seperate your load - one for downstairs, one for upstairs, and one for kitchen.
usually blackout occur for one phase only (not sure if its true in semenanjung)
weikee
post Jul 12 2011, 09:44 AM

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If your load is > 10KVA at any one time, you better get the 3 Phase.

hmm, 10KVA, that's lot of electricity.
wynners22
post Jul 12 2011, 10:04 AM

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thanks for u guys reply...so may i know what is the total cost involve?

thank you
weikee
post Jul 12 2011, 10:38 AM

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TNB, around 4 - 5k, than you need to do your house wiring assuming redo all, that will be around 8k for entire double story. So easily 15k on the rough estimate.

How about new Earth? That also few hundreds.
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post Jul 12 2011, 10:41 AM

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Deposit is Rm 1k plus. Meter and the upgrade another 1 k plus. If you haveore than 6 air cond, better apply for it
weikee
post Jul 12 2011, 10:44 AM

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QUOTE(kiterackk1 @ Jul 12 2011, 10:41 AM)
Deposit is Rm 1k plus. Meter and the upgrade another 1 k plus. If you haveore than 6 air cond, better apply for it
*
Where got so cheap, i relocate my single phase meter already cost me 1.3k direct from TNB. Than this Puan ask me why not do 3 Phase, top up few Ks only. I was like ohmy.gif
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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 12 2011, 10:38 AM)
TNB, around 4 - 5k, than you need to do your house wiring assuming redo all, that will be around 8k for entire double story.  So easily 15k on the rough estimate.

How about new Earth?  That also few hundreds.
*
errr... why do one need to redo the house wiring for 3 phase supply?
does 3 phase works on different type of wiring or something?
thanks.
weikee
post Jul 12 2011, 11:13 AM

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- Single phase using 2 wires
- 3 phase using 4 wires (Red, Yellow Blue, + Return)


If you don't indent to run 3 Phased equipments (e.g. 4HP a/c, 5KVA Oven ), all equipments are running on 240v only.

and

The house have the wall socket run independent without looping, And all high load (e.g. WH, AC, OVEN) points are independent (direct to MCB without looping). Than technically you can just pull in the 4 new wires, distribute the load on other phase.

Or maybe you have another DB box on 1st floor, use one phase for first floor DB, ground floor share out the 2 phase between load.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 12 2011, 11:13 AM
mmarklee188
post Jul 12 2011, 11:25 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 12 2011, 11:13 AM)
- Single phase using 2 wires
- 3 phase using 4 wires (Red, Yellow Blue, + Return)
If you don't indent to run 3 Phased equipments (e.g. 4HP a/c, 5KVA Oven ), all equipments are running on 240v only.

and

The house have the wall socket run independent without looping, And all high load (e.g. WH, AC, OVEN) points are independent (direct to MCB without looping). Than technically you can just pull in the 4 new wires, distribute the load on other phase.

Or maybe you have another DB box on 1st floor, use one phase for first floor DB, ground floor share out the 2 phase between load.
*
I thought if you need more than the amp allocated such as 60amp per household, then, you will need 3 phase wiring? Please help cry.gif
weikee
post Jul 12 2011, 11:39 AM

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Yes, but i think anything above 10KVA (about 45 amps) is better to go with 3 phase provided your house wiring support it.

If you have a looping socket, max it take is 15 amps in total. Don't overload else you risk of catching fire.

Wow, now many double story house owner so well to do. Can take up load of 40Amps.
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post Jul 12 2011, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 12 2011, 11:39 AM)
Yes, but i think anything above 10KVA (about 45 amps) is better to go with 3 phase provided your house wiring support it.

If you have a looping socket, max it take is 15 amps in total. Don't overload else you risk of catching fire.

Wow, now many double story house owner so well to do. Can take up load of 40Amps.
*
How much is a load of 40amp, I can't imagine it? Like 6 a/c operating simultaneously/at the same time?
weikee
post Jul 12 2011, 01:51 PM

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6 a/c of 1hp, is about 30amps in running. But if you start all A/C at the same time you got problem smile.gif

You need to consider Water Heater, Fridge, and Electric Oven, or perhaps a super duper 3000watt Amplifier sound system.
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post Jul 12 2011, 02:35 PM

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My experience:
- upgraded 3 yrs ago for rm3k+
- 2.5 terrace w 5 aircons
- tnb bill reduced ~10%
Something to do with single phase overload will cause higher tnb bill.

Anyone an electrician can explain better?
weikee
post Jul 12 2011, 03:05 PM

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http://www.tnb.com.my/residential/manage-y...upply-type.html

The advice recommend if you wish to change to 3P.

I never know upgrade to 3Phase can reduce the bill, maybe the old meter is faulty?
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post Nov 8 2011, 10:35 AM

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Can I upgrade to 3-phase without rewiring my whole house wiring? I am considering to upgrade in future when budget is allowed..


kamion
post Nov 8 2011, 10:44 AM

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How old is your house? I think you can do it, but have to balance the load on the different phases only. From what I understand, three phase come in, then you tap off supply to different parts of the house from different phases. When you tap off, then there's no difference already. (But have to wait for bro weikee to confirm la. He sounds like expert.) biggrin.gif
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post Nov 8 2011, 12:15 PM

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why do you need a 3-phase system? Are you introducing new load to the existing electrical system?

If introducing new load, just maintain the old connection, distribute the new load to the new phases.

Rewiring the whoel house might not be necessary, all depends on how your load is currently distributed, say if you have 6 MCBs occupied, just spearate the 6 into 2 per phase. Work only needed at DB, no need to work on the final circuit.
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post Nov 8 2011, 12:40 PM

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QUOTE(pky @ Nov 8 2011, 12:15 PM)
why do you need a 3-phase system? Are you introducing new load to the existing electrical system?

If introducing new load, just maintain the old connection, distribute the new load to the new phases.

Rewiring the whoel house might not be necessary, all depends on how your load is currently distributed, say if you have 6 MCBs occupied, just spearate the 6 into 2 per phase. Work only needed at DB, no need to work on the final circuit.
*
Thanks....
weikee
post Nov 8 2011, 01:09 PM

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Whith 3-Phases, you should be adding more MCB, Unless your house is already pre-wire with all the load individually.



This post has been edited by weikee: Nov 8 2011, 01:12 PM
pky
post Nov 8 2011, 01:48 PM

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As mentioned earlier, depends on why TS need to upgrade to 3 phase. If TS introducing new load, say, 6 additional A/C, 3 refrigerator, extra compound lighting etc. Budget wise, TS can just assign the new load to the 2 new phases, while the 3rd phase supply to the existing DB, of cause, not the proper way of work, but just to meet the budget and minimize damage.

If just to upgrade the existing electrical system, since TS planning to have a 3 phase, i guess, TS existing DB already have quite a number of outgoing circuit and MCBs, so can just divide them into 3 groups at the DB.

Bro weikee, if upgrade to 3-phase, just have to change the incomming breaker and protection device to 3 phase. Quantity of outgoing MCB can remain the same, depends on TS needs.

weikee
post Nov 8 2011, 01:56 PM

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QUOTE(pky @ Nov 8 2011, 01:48 PM)
As mentioned earlier, depends on why TS need to upgrade to 3 phase. If TS introducing new load, say, 6 additional A/C, 3 refrigerator, extra compound lighting etc. Budget wise, TS can just assign the new load to the 2 new phases, while the 3rd phase supply to the existing DB, of cause, not the proper way of work, but just to meet the budget and minimize damage.

If just to upgrade the existing electrical system, since TS planning to have a 3 phase, i guess, TS existing DB already have quite a number of outgoing circuit and MCBs, so can just divide them into 3 groups at the DB.

Bro weikee,  if upgrade to 3-phase, just have to change the incomming breaker and protection device to 3 phase. Quantity of outgoing MCB can remain the same, depends on TS needs.
*
Existing house using 1 phase maybe only have 15 MCB, or less. You put 3 phases, how you want to share the load? You need extra load for 3 phases. That mean extra MCB, extra wiring, extra socket.

Must well add the internal first, only do the external. If doing renovation just pull a thick 4 core from outside to inside will do.
pky
post Nov 8 2011, 05:00 PM

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If 15 way SPN DB, assuming 6 used for lighting and 6 used for power, the rest are spare. Upgrade the Incomer MCB to 4P, Protection Device to TPN, put 2 MCB for lighting, 2 MCB for power, 1 spare on each phase. This is, if TS just want to upgrade the electrical system and not add additional load to the system, so no need extra MCB nor socket.

Submain cable definitely have to lay new. Multicore or single, depends on DB and TNB meter location.
weikee
post Nov 8 2011, 10:48 PM

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Where got 6 use for lighting. At most 3 for most single DB box.
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post Nov 9 2011, 11:01 AM

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So confusing....

Initially I plan to use 3 phase when re-wring my whole house but at the end no budget, use 1 phase...

I hope I can change to 3 phase in the future without major changes..


weikee
post Nov 9 2011, 11:21 AM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Nov 9 2011, 11:01 AM)
So confusing....

Initially I plan to use 3 phase when re-wring my whole house but at the end no budget, use 1 phase...

I hope I can change to 3 phase in the future without major changes..
*
I'll advice first floor independent DB box, ground floor one independent DB box. Pull 4 core thick cable from front gate pillar to your DB box for future upgrade.
kamion
post Nov 9 2011, 12:59 PM

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Electrician offered to pull the cable under ground for future 3 phase if needed, but then he said must install some sort of DB at the gate. He quoted a few thousands just to do that. I told him no need. Next time just pull in above and fly over. biggrin.gif I wasn't sure if I wanted to do it in the future.
weikee
post Nov 9 2011, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(kamion @ Nov 9 2011, 12:59 PM)
Electrician offered to pull the cable under ground for future 3 phase if needed, but then he said must install some sort of DB at the gate. He quoted a few thousands just to do that. I told him no need. Next time just pull in above and fly over. biggrin.gif I wasn't sure if I wanted to do it in the future.
*
Few Thousand? that is expensive. Thousand plus is ok, unless your gate to the DB is like 50feets away. These cable are expensive, and do take note not all location TNB allow you to use the existing cable to be 3 phase. Depend how how the current load, if the load is already near max they will ask you get direct from the utility pole, and it will terminate to your front gate. unless you don't mind 4 cable come in between your house from the pole.
tiensong
post Nov 9 2011, 01:32 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 9 2011, 11:21 AM)
I'll advice first floor independent DB box, ground floor one independent DB box. Pull 4 core thick cable from front gate pillar to your DB box for future upgrade.
*
Everything already done...I don't know whether they pull 4 core thick cable to my DB box or not....I believe they don't...

haiz...leave the headache in future....now think too much also no use..


ozak
post Nov 9 2011, 01:44 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 9 2011, 01:13 PM)
Few Thousand? that is expensive. Thousand plus is ok, unless your gate to the DB is like 50feets away. These cable are expensive, and do take note not all location TNB allow you to use the existing cable to be 3 phase. Depend how how the current load, if the load is already near max they will ask you get direct from the utility pole, and it will terminate to your front gate. unless you don't mind 4 cable come in between your house from the pole.
*
What is the max current for 1phase?
weikee
post Nov 9 2011, 01:56 PM

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TNB recommend max 50A for single phase.

http://www.tnb.com.my/residential/manage-y...upply-type.html
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post Nov 9 2011, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 9 2011, 01:56 PM)
TNB recommend max 50A for single phase.

http://www.tnb.com.my/residential/manage-y...upply-type.html
*
I upgrade to 60A from the list the developer give for option upgrade.

But since my electrical still below 10kw, better stay at 1phase. smile.gif
weikee
post Nov 9 2011, 03:08 PM

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Yeah, just change the outside fuse, and also internal circuit breaker
KIntos
post Nov 9 2011, 03:17 PM

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btw do all new house 3-phrase ready? meaning already pre-cabled underground from pole to outside meter? how much does its cose to convert single phrase to 3 phrase. i read about the additional charges for cable to main meter fuse.

another one, if i apply for 3-phrase. theirs assigned will come check our house wiring and quote us right? to do or not to do we still can decide right?

This post has been edited by KIntos: Nov 9 2011, 03:20 PM
Zestune
post Nov 11 2011, 01:08 AM

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Not all houses are 3-phase ready. To convert from single phase to 3 phase.

Your side
1) To change existing single phase meter panel to three phase (if u r wondering what is meter panel, its the box where your meter mounts on)
2) To change / upgrade the main cables from meter panel from single phase to three phase (from 2 core cable to 4 core cable)
3) To upgrade ur DB from single phase to three phase ( the main switch/mccb and elcb/rccb need to change to 4 pole)

TNB side

1)Engage licensed electrician to liase with TNB to upgrade the incoming cable and meter to three phase



KIntos
post Nov 11 2011, 09:31 AM

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QUOTE(Zestune @ Nov 11 2011, 01:08 AM)
Not all houses are 3-phase ready. To convert from single phase to 3 phase.

Your side
1) To change existing single phase meter panel to three phase (if u r wondering what is meter panel, its the box where your meter mounts on)
2) To change / upgrade the main cables from meter panel from single phase to three phase (from 2 core cable to 4 core cable)
3) To upgrade ur DB from single phase to three phase ( the main switch/mccb and elcb/rccb need to change to 4 pole)

TNB side

1)Engage licensed electrician to liase with TNB to upgrade the incoming cable and meter to three phase
*
hi bro. so mean i will get charges for the TNB side as well right for the upgrading the incoming cable? i tot all new houses is 3 phrase ready nowadays.

hmm.. how much do its cost if we wanna upgrade roughly? my side i think i need to fork out like rm1k++ not include the TNB side.
Zestune
post Nov 11 2011, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(KIntos @ Nov 11 2011, 09:31 AM)
hi bro. so mean i will get charges for the TNB side as well right for the upgrading the incoming cable? i tot all new houses is 3 phrase ready nowadays.

hmm.. how much do its cost if we wanna upgrade roughly? my side i think i need to fork out like rm1k++ not include the TNB side.
*
Yes you will be charged by TNB. If double storey houses mostly is 3 phase ready nowadays, depends on the design.

For costing it varies according to the cable length and the amount of work required.
coconutzz
post Nov 16 2011, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(Zestune @ Nov 11 2011, 11:57 AM)
Yes you will be charged by TNB. If double storey houses mostly is 3 phase ready nowadays, depends on the design.

For costing it varies according to the cable length and the amount of work required.
*
Just out of curiosity...the tariff rates are the same for single phase and 3 phase?
Zestune
post Nov 16 2011, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Nov 16 2011, 11:26 AM)
Just out of curiosity...the tariff rates are the same for single phase and 3 phase?
*
Yes tariff is the same ... refer http://www.tnb.com.my/tnb/residential/pric...riff-rates.html for more details.

cpmah
post Nov 17 2011, 09:15 AM

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Hi all,


Pls share to detail cost of upgrade from 1 phase to 3 phase.


I plan to upgrade mine from 1 phase to 3 phase, any TNB certified contractor recommend?

This post has been edited by cpmah: Nov 17 2011, 09:17 AM
PacManV12
post Nov 22 2011, 11:34 AM

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You could find out the TNB Contractors here.



Dazel83
post Nov 30 2011, 09:34 PM

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need some help,

i made a mistake by hiring a contractor from hell, my house reno was supposed to be done in sept but was delay till today, due to many issues with the contractor, however, my house was a single phase and we decided to change to 3 phase when we wanted to renovate it, the application had been done a month ago and still no sign of connection for 3 phase.

does anyone knows how long does it takes for 3phase to connect?
or how to check whether your 3 phase is connected?

pls help thanks
sovietmah
post Dec 5 2011, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(Sitting Duck @ Jan 12 2009, 07:46 PM)
So which means we still need to pay $$$ to TNB for the wiring from the TNB power distribution point to our house , regardless whether it's already ready or not.. sad.gif

I paid RM 1800 for the 3 phase wiring from the meter outside the house into the DB inside the home. It's done now and so far there isn't any problem.. (touch wood)..

And thanks for showing me the calculation..some day i really need to sit down and calculate what's the consuming so much electricity...


Added on January 12, 2009, 7:51 pm
I just remembered this, I was told me someone (cannot remember who, a friend, electrcian, TNB, newspaper??) that which one fridge and some basic electronics in the house (tv, lights,etc), the minimum would be around RM40~/month, without air-con that is... so with 1HP air-con that is on about 7 hours a day, can the electricity bill still be at RM40/month??
*
I stay at condo, 2 person, Inverter aircon 4 hours daily with 25 celcius, honestly i see only Rm5 differences.
Normally bill RM50-60.
weikee
post Dec 5 2011, 06:22 PM

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With recent rainy season, 25c is not much difference than outside temperate, sometime can go below 25c too. Your compressor even non inverter did not work that much. Try setting 21, compressor will on and off more frequent.
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post Dec 6 2011, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 5 2011, 06:22 PM)
With recent rainy season, 25c is not much difference than outside temperate, sometime can go below 25c too. Your compressor even non inverter did not work that much. Try setting 21, compressor will on and off more frequent.
*
Ok noted.
but seriously, i feel extremely cold already with even 23 celcius, dun talk about 21 celcius..
but compressor on and off more frequent means more electric use right? I install inverter but honestly i have no idea how it works. i fail my engineering haha.
ozak
post Dec 6 2011, 12:36 PM

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You don't need to know. What you need to know is your bill have drop or not.
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post Dec 6 2011, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 6 2011, 12:36 PM)
You don't need to know. What you need to know is your bill have drop or not.
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Unscientific but so true, as the botton line is savings thumbup.gif
yymn
post Jan 3 2012, 05:03 PM

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Hi, wud like to know about single-phase installation and deposit to TNB. How much is it and what is contribution charge?

Hope, someone can enlighten me. Sorry, if this has bn discussed before. I might hv missed that.

tks

This post has been edited by yymn: Jan 3 2012, 05:04 PM
SUSendau02
post Jan 5 2012, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(onlinefever @ Apr 7 2009, 01:15 PM)
anyone know how much is the wiring cost if i want to move the electric meter from inside house to outside? old house the meter is inside and tnb can't take reading if nobody at home.
*
i think oni tnb technician can change the location, as anythin bfore meter is under tnb concern
weikee
post Jan 5 2012, 02:47 PM

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Outside as in at gate or autogate pillar?
adrianjc
post Jan 5 2012, 03:56 PM

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QUOTE(Dazel83 @ Nov 30 2011, 09:34 PM)
need some help,

i made a mistake by hiring a contractor from hell, my house reno was supposed to be done in sept but was delay till today, due to many issues with the contractor, however, my house was a single phase and we decided to change to 3 phase when we wanted to renovate it, the application had been done a month ago and still no sign of connection for 3 phase.

does anyone knows how long does it takes for 3phase to connect?
or how to check whether your 3 phase is connected?

pls help thanks
*
Your internal 3-phase wiring needs to be completed prior to the application for 3-phase connection from TNB. Once the wiring has been completed by your wireman, call the TNB contractor to submit your application.

There is one item that can severely delay the completion and that is moving your TNB meter from the wall of your house to the gate pillar. The application process is usually longer and depending on your location, submission to local council is required if TNB needs to dig up the road for the laying of the 3 core cables to go to your meter.

My parents neighbour waited a good 3 months before the relevant approvals were obtained and TNB came to dig up the road and lay the cables.

benc43
post Jan 8 2012, 08:15 PM

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Hi

Anyone know if there is a 3 phase connection promotion by TNB? I heard from a friend
that sometime back (2009/2010) TNB had a promotion for 3 phase connection for only
RM800 including installation to your house.

Anyone knows if there is one planned in the near future

Thanks
adrianjc
post Jan 8 2012, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(benc43 @ Jan 8 2012, 08:15 PM)
Hi

Anyone know if there is a 3 phase connection promotion by TNB? I heard from a friend
that sometime back (2009/2010) TNB had a promotion for 3 phase connection for only
RM800 including installation to your house.

Anyone knows if there is one planned in the near future

Thanks
*
3 phase only works if your internal home wiring has been changed to accommodate 3 phase. TNB may have had a reduction on the application fee for the 3 phase electrical input in and new meter. Have not heard of any promo.

Total cost for converting your home to 3 phase will cost a great deal more.
kelvyn
post Jan 10 2012, 09:19 AM

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Go for 3 phase only if you requires them. The TNB deposit will be increased. You will need to consider the wiring from the meter to your DB. If you DB is on the wall behind the meter, then very easy. However, if it is located say under your staircase, etc. then this will involve major work, thus the additional cost
ozak
post Jan 10 2012, 09:44 AM

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Why you guys want to change to 3phase when your applicance doesn't exceed 65A at 1 go use?

Does your bill cheaper?
weikee
post Jan 10 2012, 10:40 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jan 10 2012, 09:44 AM)
Why you guys want to change to 3phase when your applicance doesn't exceed 65A at 1 go use?

Does your bill cheaper?
*
Make me wonder too.

My household equipment if fully switch on till take up about 16,000 Watt. But that if I switch it on. I doubt smile.gif Usually highest usage is about 8000 watt for short period of time.


Added on January 10, 2012, 10:41 amBTW, the fuse is rated much lower, think is 43Amps or 45Amps. Mine is on that number. Is 65Amp common for single phase?

This post has been edited by weikee: Jan 10 2012, 10:42 AM
ozak
post Jan 10 2012, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 10 2012, 10:40 AM)
Make me wonder too.

My household equipment if fully switch on till take up about 16,000 Watt. But that if I switch it on. I doubt smile.gif Usually highest usage is about 8000 watt for short period of time.


Added on January 10, 2012, 10:41 amBTW, the fuse is rated much lower, think is 43Amps or 45Amps. Mine is on that number. Is 65Amp common for single phase?
*
For single phase, there have 2 type. 30A and 60A. 30A is for std house low usage. Which next upgrade is 60A. Over than that, TNB advise you to get 3phase. Becuase your house is already like shop lot usage. I suspect it only benifit tnb but not the owner. TNB have phase load problem if over load 1phase.


weikee
post Jan 10 2012, 12:14 PM

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Hmm, That mean i got to replace my outdoor fused before i blow it up smile.gif
ozak
post Jan 10 2012, 12:33 PM

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My main fuse is 60A. That is original from day 1.
ameeyn
post Feb 9 2012, 02:30 PM

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I just demolished and built a new house but im still using the single phase for the construction..im going to start my wiring work today..im going to place the meter outside near the tnb pole and do 3 phase wiring works..do i have to submit any documents when applying to 3 phase upgrade at tnb?
tomjason
post Feb 22 2012, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(ameeyn @ Feb 9 2012, 02:30 PM)
I just demolished and built a new house but im still using the single phase for the construction..im going to start my wiring work today..im going to place the meter outside near the tnb pole and do 3 phase wiring works..do i have to submit any documents when applying to 3 phase upgrade at tnb?
*
just to share my experience...since you are doing new renovation..if possible put 2 DB inside your house...one main DB at infront house then second DB at the back...ensure that your new DB is 3 phase DB. The purpose is easier for you to control...i design my house using 2 DB. If possible place your meter at the gate. The cost to apply and install new 3 phase meter is varies but mine is about RM2K. My meter is at the front of the house. I renovated my back house. Later when i renovate my front house then i will change the meter at the gate.

TQ
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post Feb 24 2012, 06:42 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 5 2012, 02:47 PM)
Outside as in at gate or autogate pillar?
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it can be anywhere..
mkow
post Feb 24 2012, 11:35 PM

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QUOTE(onlinefever @ Apr 7 2009, 01:15 PM)
anyone know how much is the wiring cost if i want to move the electric meter from inside house to outside? old house the meter is inside and tnb can't take reading if nobody at home.
*
you need tnb to install new meter, i.e. to relocate meter. then after the meter into the house, contractor's job. tnb responsible up to meter, including cables from the nearest lamp pole to the meter. depending on the distance from the pole, the charges vary.
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post Feb 26 2012, 12:02 AM

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QUOTE(mkow @ Feb 24 2012, 11:35 PM)
you need tnb to install new meter, i.e. to relocate meter. then after the meter into the house, contractor's job. tnb responsible up to meter, including cables from the nearest lamp pole to the meter. depending on the distance from the pole, the charges vary.
*
If the TNB tap supply from the lamp pole to your house, which i doubt they will, better becareful.
exkaizen
post Mar 13 2012, 10:46 AM

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I don't know regarding phase, fius & electricity... how to check whether our we need 60A fius or change to 3 phase?

let say have 2 aircond (1hp each) & 1 aircond (2hp), 3 water heater, 2 42" LCD TV, 1 two door fridge, 1 microwave oven, 1 electrical cooking hub with hob & 500watt desktop
tomjason
post Mar 13 2012, 11:16 AM

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i hv just change to 3 phase...i installed 2 DB inside..one infront, the other at back (direct 16mm cable) from meter. I got 5 airconds and 4 instant water heater, since i renovated my house might else change to 3 phase. It is required to change to 3 phase, incase your power consumption over 60-63 A (single phase). Else failed to change, sometime, you have experience MCB tripped cause by overload.

My design with 2 DB somehow (direct pull 16mm cable) save my electricity bills.


The promotion TNB has ended. During the promotion, user save about hundreds RM for fees.

This post has been edited by tomjason: Mar 13 2012, 11:58 AM
weikee
post Mar 13 2012, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ Mar 13 2012, 10:46 AM)
I don't know regarding phase, fius & electricity... how to check whether our we need 60A fius or change to 3 phase?

let say have 2 aircond (1hp each) & 1 aircond (2hp), 3 water heater, 2 42" LCD TV, 1 two door fridge, 1 microwave oven, 1 electrical cooking hub with hob & 500watt desktop
*
You did not specify is a storage or instant water heater. Assume is Instant:

3 Water heater if you switch on concurrent already 3/4 the limit of 60 Amps fuse. 3600Watt x 3 = 10,800 WH, about 45 Amps.

3 A/C switch on concurrent , you ause up about 3600 WH, about 15Amps.

So if you switch on everything you mention above at the max at the same time, you burn the fuse.


exkaizen
post Mar 13 2012, 01:35 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 13 2012, 11:55 AM)
You did not specify is a storage or instant water heater. Assume is Instant:

3 Water heater if you switch on concurrent already 3/4 the limit of 60 Amps fuse. 3600Watt x 3 = 10,800 WH, about 45 Amps.

3 A/C switch on concurrent , you ause up about 3600 WH, about 15Amps.

So if you switch on everything you mention above at the max at the same time, you burn the fuse.
*
meaning as long as I did not turn on everything at the same time... it should be ok rite...

ok thanks happy.gif
ozak
post Mar 13 2012, 01:43 PM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ Mar 13 2012, 01:35 PM)
meaning as long as I did not turn on everything at the same time... it should be ok rite...

ok thanks happy.gif
*
Don't waste your money. It only profit TNB.
northface
post Mar 13 2012, 01:54 PM

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Malaysians so kiasu, a lot of ppl whom want 3 phase have not a single clue what it is, but they want it because more is better.

I've even seen ppl with 3 phase incoming but the house wiring still wired to 1 phase, but they think it is better and 'save' more! shocking.gif

tomjason
post Mar 13 2012, 01:58 PM

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everything is depend on your usage demand...if your usage not so big..no need 3 phase..if you are having big renovation better opt for 3 phase...who knows your future usage demand...
exkaizen
post Mar 13 2012, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 13 2012, 01:43 PM)
Don't waste your money. It only profit TNB.
*
meaning? with such config 60A single phase should be enuf?
tomjason
post Mar 13 2012, 02:05 PM

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if your usage if high for safety reason go for 3 phase..if overload dangeorus..can cause fire...example..if your got 5 airconds and 4 water heater..and other..60Amps is not sufficient...if overload can cause fire..also overload your wiring...
northface
post Mar 13 2012, 02:06 PM

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Think about 3 phase as three different single phase coming into your house.
In house setting you will only use individual phase to neutral, you won't be using phase to phase because it gives 1.732 x voltage = 415V. Only in industry setting especially electric motors needs 3 phase voltage or cannot run.

Generally for bungalows 3 phase is good to have. For condos and terrace houses I doubt you will ever need 3 phase.


Added on March 13, 2012, 2:10 pm
QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 13 2012, 02:05 PM)
if your usage if high for safety reason go for 3 phase..if overload dangeorus..can cause fire...example..if your got 5 airconds and 4 water heater..and other..60Amps is not sufficient...if overload can cause fire..also overload your wiring...
*
If nothing wrong with your wiring if over current happens the MCB will trip nothing will burn.
Only if got problem with wiring where a short/current leak does not trip your MCB/ELCB there will be a possibility of fire, in that case even if you have 3 phase still can get fire.

And even with 3 phase a irresponsible electrical contractor can be lazy and overload 1 of the 3 phases, in that case that would be risks involved as well.

This post has been edited by northface: Mar 13 2012, 02:10 PM
weikee
post Mar 13 2012, 02:12 PM

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Another reason why people use 3 phase because they have 3 phase equipment like >= 4HP a/c. Welding machine..


Added on March 13, 2012, 2:14 pm
QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 13 2012, 02:05 PM)
if your usage if high for safety reason go for 3 phase..if overload dangeorus..can cause fire...example..if your got 5 airconds and 4 water heater..and other..60Amps is not sufficient...if overload can cause fire..also overload your wiring...
*
Sorry I don't agree. Unless your house got no MCB or fuse protection. Anything above the threshold it will burn the fused or trip the mcb. Unless of course the owner bypass the fused, and short the MCB.

This post has been edited by weikee: Mar 13 2012, 02:14 PM
tomjason
post Mar 13 2012, 02:59 PM

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having 3 phase is like car and MPV..if you have more children sure you like to upgrade to MPV to cater the children...

more over upgrade to 3 phase is one off investment...and the cost is not much..for my case for processing is RM1500, deposit RM500. for me..it is 'rugi' if you are having major renovation but do not want to upgrade to 3 phase..for your future demand same as MPV..smile.gif


yes there many cases burn due to wiring such as overload etc..mostly 'rumah papan'....

This post has been edited by tomjason: Mar 13 2012, 03:00 PM
weikee
post Mar 13 2012, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 13 2012, 02:59 PM)
having 3 phase is like car and MPV..if you have more children sure you like to upgrade to MPV to cater the children...

more over upgrade to 3 phase is one off investment...and the cost is not much..for my case for processing is RM1500, deposit RM500. for me..it is 'rugi' if you are having major renovation but do not want to upgrade to 3 phase..for your future demand same as MPV..smile.gif
yes there many cases burn due to wiring such as overload etc..mostly 'rumah papan'....
*
I have only single phase, but i have close to 50 MCB. I don't see a problem future upgrade if required.
coconutzz
post Mar 13 2012, 03:05 PM

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I m rewiring my entire house , initially i planned to stay with 1P...and finally I have decided I would just do 3P, due to large family in the house ...i have about 7 ppl in the house....at night I will have 3 AC running...sometimes 4 if my cousin comes over from Penang for Business...due to safety reasons..I have decided to go ahead

the difference for me to upgrade to 3P is roughly about 5-6k...thats inclusive of TNB Deposit, Submision...etc... all in ...RM17k..inclusive all NEW wiring for entire house...

Really not cheap..and I hope I made the right decision once and for all...as i m gonna stay in this house for another 30 years or so
tomjason
post Mar 13 2012, 03:12 PM

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for 3 phase..you do not have to change the wiring..just change the MCB for 3 phase...around RM500-RM1000 depend on how many CB. So for my 3 phase for my existing house (not inclusive new extension house) is RM 500+RM1500 (processing)+RM500 (TNB deposit)...

This post has been edited by tomjason: Mar 13 2012, 03:14 PM
ozak
post Mar 13 2012, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(exkaizen @ Mar 13 2012, 01:59 PM)
meaning? with such config 60A single phase should be enuf?
*
If you live in double storey house, it is more than enough.
tomjason
post Mar 13 2012, 04:17 PM

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while doing the load balancing for my house red,yellow, blue with my wiring man....i have tested on all the load aircond, lamp etc, kecuali water heater...the total current is about 40 Amps..for me its justify for my house to have 3 phase.
weikee
post Mar 13 2012, 04:26 PM

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QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 13 2012, 04:17 PM)
while doing the load balancing for my house red,yellow, blue with my wiring man....i have tested on all the load aircond, lamp etc, kecuali water heater...the total current is about 40 Amps..for me its justify for my house to have 3 phase.
*
40 amps justify smile.gif Like that I run about 50+- when switch on all a/c and light. Need to upgrade already.

This post has been edited by weikee: Mar 13 2012, 04:30 PM
tomjason
post Mar 13 2012, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 13 2012, 04:26 PM)
40 amps justify smile.gif Like that I run about 50+- when switch on all a/c and light. Need to upgrade already.
*
yes..cause i have not on my water heater, use all the plug, sound system. etc...i m thinking future....maybe got function in myhouse later ..etc etc...biggrin.gif


This post has been edited by tomjason: Mar 13 2012, 04:34 PM
ozak
post Mar 13 2012, 04:36 PM

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Why you guys like to give money to TNB? rclxub.gif
weikee
post Mar 13 2012, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 13 2012, 04:36 PM)
Why you guys like to give money to TNB?  rclxub.gif
*
Got too much money, no where to keep smile.gif
tomjason
post Mar 13 2012, 04:40 PM

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i do not like the tnb either..but what to do..they monopolized..
ozak
post Mar 13 2012, 04:57 PM

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QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 13 2012, 04:40 PM)
i do not like the tnb either..but what to do..they monopolized..
*
Change to 3P, you give money to TNB. Than thinking use alot more power, and again give money to TNB. You are TNB good customer. thumbup.gif
coconutzz
post Mar 13 2012, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 13 2012, 04:57 PM)
Change to 3P, you give money to TNB. Than thinking use alot more power, and again give money to TNB. You are TNB good customer. thumbup.gif
*
ahaha...after giving TNB money..TNB will give to Govt...Govt use it to buy cows...and then dunno somehow cows turned into concrete buildings smile.gif


Added on March 13, 2012, 7:04 pm
QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 13 2012, 03:12 PM)
for 3 phase..you do not have to change the wiring..just change the MCB for 3 phase...around RM500-RM1000 depend on how many CB. So for my 3 phase for my existing house (not inclusive new extension house) is RM 500+RM1500 (processing)+RM500 (TNB deposit)...
*
Doing rewiring for safety reason bro...my house is 30+ yrs..i m going to reno it...changing pipings and wiring...

This post has been edited by coconutzz: Mar 13 2012, 07:04 PM
tomjason
post Mar 14 2012, 07:54 AM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Mar 13 2012, 07:03 PM)
ahaha...after giving TNB money..TNB will give to Govt...Govt use it to buy cows...and then dunno somehow cows turned into concrete buildings smile.gif


Added on March 13, 2012, 7:04 pm
Doing rewiring for safety reason bro...my house is 30+ yrs..i m going to reno it...changing pipings and wiring...
*
your house had to change wiring over 30 years....
coconutzz
post Mar 14 2012, 08:35 AM

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QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 14 2012, 07:54 AM)
your house had to change wiring over 30 years....
*
Yupe..thats the main reason..i have no choice but to change d wirings..
ozak
post Mar 14 2012, 09:12 AM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Mar 14 2012, 08:35 AM)
Yupe..thats the main reason..i have no choice but to change d wirings..
*
For rewiring, try to plan detail and have 3DB with thicker wire branch if DSL house. Some forumer here said can save some bill. Just my opinion. smile.gif
coconutzz
post Mar 14 2012, 09:40 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 14 2012, 09:12 AM)
For rewiring, try to plan detail and have 3DB with thicker wire branch if DSL house. Some forumer here said can save some bill. Just my opinion. smile.gif
*
Noted with thanks. I will discuss with the wireman again.
tomjason
post Mar 14 2012, 09:55 AM

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this my design..so far seem save my electricity bill...waiting my next bill.....got 2 DB 3 phase.....more stable......less trip when lightning..Attached File  DB_connector.doc ( 21k ) Number of downloads: 161


This post has been edited by tomjason: Mar 14 2012, 10:04 AM
weikee
post Mar 14 2012, 10:02 AM

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QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 14 2012, 09:55 AM)
this my design..so far seem save my electricity bill...waiting my next bill.....got 2 DB 3 phase.....more stable......less trip when lightning..
*
Can you explain why more DB less trip?

Save electric, have you try trip all the mcb or the 3 main circuit breaker, and see if your meter still run. Try it.
tomjason
post Mar 14 2012, 10:07 AM

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normally before this...my area is lightning prone..usually when lightning normally will trip..but now no more trip...before this i put lightning arrestor at DB..the arrestor also kena kilat..now no more arrestor.
weikee
post Mar 14 2012, 10:13 AM

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QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 14 2012, 10:07 AM)
normally before this...my area is lightning prone..usually when lightning normally will trip..but now no more trip...before this i put lightning arrestor at DB..the arrestor also kena kilat..now no more arrestor.
*
From my humble knowledge. lighting strike not related to the old or new live cables or neutral. Not even related to 3-phases or single phase. Very much on the soil, and earthing. Your rewire may have fix the earthing. It could also be your previous Circuit breaker is due for change.


tomjason
post Mar 14 2012, 10:21 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 14 2012, 10:13 AM)
From my humble knowledge. lighting strike not related to the old or new live cables or neutral. Not even related to 3-phases or single phase. Very much on the soil, and earthing. Your rewire may have fix the earthing. It could also be your previous Circuit breaker is due for change.
*
my area is lightning prone area...i observed my old DB was not faulty.....the severity of lightning in my area is few month ago until the outside ceilling of my jiran pecah...
weikee
post Mar 14 2012, 11:01 AM

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QUOTE(tomjason @ Mar 14 2012, 10:21 AM)
my area is lightning prone area...i observed my old DB was not faulty.....the severity of lightning in my area is few month ago until the outside ceilling of my jiran pecah...
*
But it not related to DB, be it you running on Single or 3 phases. More of environment and other factor like soil content of mineral, height of the land area (above sea level) etc...
Brick1235
post Mar 20 2012, 12:26 AM

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Hi all,

I got my original contractor to do my 3 Phase wiring and this is one thing that i think is super high price ><. Can someone tell me is this really what it is suppose to be!? I have checked with 2 other person and they paid like RM2k till 3k only for the 3Phase total but this could be because their house is newer then mine that is why its cheaper. My house is about 30years old.

TMB fee + deposit

RM 2250 (still variable price depending on TNB quote)

New DB + 3Phase MCB + 1x40A 300mA 4P RCD + 27x10/20A 1P MCB + PVC housing + internal looping wiring and busbar + metal clad metering panel + 3x60A cut-out fuse and neutral link + 40ft underground PVC cable PVC pipe with electrical pits

RM3223

Application for TNB 63A 3-phase supply + Borang A endorsed single line diagram, endorsed Borang G & H, testing and commissioning and processing charge.

RM965

Total out RM 6438

aneip
post Mar 20 2012, 02:49 AM

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this is 2nd time I heard about 3 phase save money (in term of electric bill)? how it's possible? anyone care to explain?
Brick1235
post Mar 20 2012, 08:39 AM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Mar 20 2012, 02:49 AM)
this is 2nd time I heard about 3 phase save money (in term of electric bill)? how it's possible? anyone care to explain?
*
No save money at all, can easily use more power accidentally and easily equals to lose more money yala
ozak
post Mar 20 2012, 09:00 AM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Mar 20 2012, 02:49 AM)
this is 2nd time I heard about 3 phase save money (in term of electric bill)? how it's possible? anyone care to explain?
*
You have to see at a rich person view. They willing to pay for the consumption and the montly bill.
weikee
post Mar 20 2012, 09:59 AM

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A reason to change 3P biggrin.gif
ttleng
post Mar 20 2012, 10:47 AM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Mar 20 2012, 02:49 AM)
this is 2nd time I heard about 3 phase save money (in term of electric bill)? how it's possible? anyone care to explain?
*
For choosing between single phase or 3 phase depend on your HP use on your air cond + fridge + Water Heater.
If you use more then 3 air-cond with 1 hp then i think can go to around 5 unit.

If your house power usage is more then single phase supply then it will drain more power which will damage your home electric component in long usage.This happen due to unbalance/unstable power require for others electical component during overload power. Your DB will trip when the power overload according fuse that you use.

Thats why if you single phase bill is over RM200 when change into 3 phase will be cheaper because you component has enough power supply and wont drain power.
weikee
post Mar 20 2012, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(ttleng @ Mar 20 2012, 10:47 AM)
For choosing between single phase or 3 phase depend on your HP use on your air cond + fridge + Water Heater.
If you use more then 3 air-cond with 1 hp then i think can go to around 5 unit.

If your house power usage is more then single phase supply then it will drain more power which will damage your home electric component in long usage.This happen due to unbalance/unstable power require for others electical component during overload power. Your DB will trip when the power overload according fuse that you use.

Thats why if you single phase bill is over RM200 when change into 3 phase will be cheaper because you component has enough power supply and wont drain power.
*
Do you have proof of "your home electric component in long usage"? & "Thats why if you single phase bill is over RM200 when change into 3 phase will be cheaper because you component has enough power supply and wont drain power."

Fused will be the first to blow / trip if it overuse. If you get under voltage supply from TNB, your fuse will blow even faster, because the current draw will be higher.

RM 200 usage is about 600 unit (KWatt usage per month), that equal to about 20units a day. If using only 8 hours peak, 20/8 = 2.5 unit average high per hour, that only take up to about 10 amps. Unless you use 1 hour 20 KWatt, than this you need to use 3 phase because you are drawing 84 Amps (highest single phase is 63 Amps)

FYI, my parent house, sometime we pay > 250 per month. Is still single phase.

This post has been edited by weikee: Mar 20 2012, 11:02 AM
ozak
post Mar 20 2012, 11:21 AM

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I think alot of people still don't understand how to judge and need the 3phase.

Many are just kiasu and assume they are going to use alot of power. When bill come, sakit gigi.
ttleng
post Mar 20 2012, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 20 2012, 11:02 AM)
Do you have proof of "your home electric component in long usage"?  & "Thats why if you single phase bill is over RM200 when change into 3 phase will be cheaper because you component has enough power supply and wont drain power."

Fused will be the first to blow / trip if it overuse. If you get under voltage supply from TNB, your fuse will blow even faster, because the current draw will be higher.

RM 200 usage is about 600 unit (KWatt usage per month), that equal to about 20units a day. If using only 8 hours peak, 20/8 = 2.5 unit average high per hour, that only take up to about 10 amps.  Unless you use 1 hour 20 KWatt, than this you need to use 3 phase because you are drawing 84 Amps (highest single phase is 63 Amps)

FYI, my parent house, sometime we pay > 250 per month. Is still single phase.
*
Theorytical your calculation may seem support single phase.
In practical, do all your electric use and on at same time to cause power overload ?
If you has heavy power usage but not all use at same time, then single phase is enough for it.
My house got 3 fridges, 4 unit 1hp air cond and 1 unit 2.5hp air cond. On daylight we just on the fridge and at night
only 2~3 air cond will use. Sometime will cause electric trip. For average monthly bill is RM300+
Almost every 1 years+ need ask technician to come my house to check on compressor of air cond and fridge because it not function.
After that change into 3 phase, the electric bill gone down about 20%.
My fridge and air cond now no need always call technician to check within 2 years.

This post has been edited by ttleng: Mar 20 2012, 11:27 AM
weikee
post Mar 20 2012, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(ttleng @ Mar 20 2012, 11:26 AM)
Theorytical your calculation may seem support single phase.
In practical, do all your electric use and on at same time to cause power overload ?
If you has heavy power usage but not all use at same time, then single phase is enough for it.
My house got 3 fridges, 4 unit 1hp air cond and 1 unit 2.5hp air cond. On daylight we just on the fridge and at night
only 2~3 air cond will use. Sometime will cause electric trip. For average monthly bill is RM300+
Almost every 1 years+ need ask technician to come my house to check on compressor of air cond and fridge because it not function.
After that change into 3 phase, the electric bill gone down about 20%.
My fridge and air cond now no need always call technician to check within 2 years.
*
TNB change my old single phase meter to new single phase meter, power usage seem lower too. It could be the meter too..


Added on March 20, 2012, 11:37 am
QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 20 2012, 11:21 AM)
I think alot of people still don't understand how to judge and need the 3phase.

Many are just kiasu and assume they are going to use alot of power. When bill come, sakit gigi.
*
Ah well, this is forum to discussion or exchange idea. We only give our idea, thought, and experience. At the end is still house owner decision.

I just find it irritating when people give information without data and fact, this can be very dangerous in some situation.

This post has been edited by weikee: Mar 20 2012, 11:37 AM
aneip
post Mar 20 2012, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(ttleng @ Mar 20 2012, 11:26 AM)
Theorytical your calculation may seem support single phase.
In practical, do all your electric use and on at same time to cause power overload ?
If you has heavy power usage but not all use at same time, then single phase is enough for it.
My house got 3 fridges, 4 unit 1hp air cond and 1 unit 2.5hp air cond. On daylight we just on the fridge and at night
only 2~3 air cond will use. Sometime will cause electric trip. For average monthly bill is RM300+
Almost every 1 years+ need ask technician to come my house to check on compressor of air cond and fridge because it not function.
After that change into 3 phase, the electric bill gone down about 20%.
My fridge and air cond now no need always call technician to check within 2 years.
*
so you got 20% after changing to 3P..

it's still confusing.. Can't see any connection of lower bill when you appliances operate with enough amp.

QUOTE
If your house power usage is more then single phase supply then it will drain more power


Any electrical background can explain about this. Let's said my house use 60A (limit for 1P right?), for 10 hour. How this translate into lower bill under 3P than 1P.. Does operating near phase limit is more consuming than operate half the limit?

Anyway, to measure the total amp I can just use DIGITAL AC CLAMP outside the house right?
ozak
post Mar 20 2012, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Mar 20 2012, 11:42 AM)
so you got 20% after changing to 3P..

it's still confusing.. Can't see any connection of lower bill when you appliances operate with enough amp.
It is cause by the wiring that you overload it. You still can achieve lower bill by rewiring your house with a single phase. And limit your appliccance to 1 power point.

When your appliccance draw high watt, wire will heat up and give resistance to the voltage (voltage drop). That draw higher amp to run your applicance. And longer the distance wire, resistance is higher. Another is wire material. Use this fomula -> V / R =I

To counter this, Use bigger dia wire and plan your house wiring system properly. Some forunner here have some good wiring plan you might search back.
weikee
post Mar 20 2012, 12:14 PM

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No one mention about the incoming cable from TNB, TNB usually have 4 cables run from one row of houses (3 Phase), and this supply > 63amps per phase. For longer row of houses you see one two supply end to end. If you have large and thick cable tap to one single phase you can actually run higher current too.
ttleng
post Mar 20 2012, 12:16 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 20 2012, 12:06 PM)
It is cause by the wiring that you overload it. You still can achieve lower bill by rewiring your house with a single phase. And limit your appliccance to 1 power point.

When your appliccance draw high watt, wire will heat up and give resistance to the voltage (voltage drop). That draw higher amp to run your applicance. And longer the distance wire, resistance is higher. Another is wire material. Use this fomula -> V / R =I 

To counter this, Use bigger dia wire and plan your house wiring system properly. Some forunner here have some good wiring plan you might search back.
*
Agree with what you explain here. But if your wire have conceiled in wall and need hack ,reconceil seem troublesome else using casing rewire again.
Thats why before house renovation, plan well on which phase you needed. What type wiring you conceil. Think for long term.
ozak
post Mar 20 2012, 12:28 PM

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QUOTE(ttleng @ Mar 20 2012, 11:26 AM)
Theorytical your calculation may seem support single phase.
In practical, do all your electric use and on at same time to cause power overload ?
If you has heavy power usage but not all use at same time, then single phase is enough for it.
My house got 3 fridges, 4 unit 1hp air cond and 1 unit 2.5hp air cond. On daylight we just on the fridge and at night
only 2~3 air cond will use. Sometime will cause electric trip. For average monthly bill is RM300+
Almost every 1 years+ need ask technician to come my house to check on compressor of air cond and fridge because it not function.
After that change into 3 phase, the electric bill gone down about 20%.
My fridge and air cond now no need always call technician to check within 2 years.
*
A single phase 60A x 240v = 14.4Kwh. Base on your main fuse 60A. Assume you use full but limit 8hr/day and will cost you 14.4kwh x 8 x 365/12 = 3504kwh -> RM1500/mth. Do you use that much?

Blast your 5 aircon 1hp, 3fridge(1.5hp) and heater(3.2kw) consume you 3750kwh + 3375kwh + 3200kwh = 10.3kwh. Using 8hr average will cost you 10.3x8x365/12 = 2506kwh/mth - RM1059/mth. Do you use that much permonth?

This is only single phase.


Added on March 20, 2012, 12:38 pm
QUOTE(ttleng @ Mar 20 2012, 12:16 PM)
Agree with what you explain here. But if your wire have conceiled in wall and need hack ,reconceil seem troublesome else using casing rewire again.
Thats why before house renovation, plan well on which phase you needed. What type wiring you conceil. Think for long term.
*
I will go back single pahse. Unless TNB said free upgrade 3phase for me.

What I do is just upgrade the wire and plan properlly. Saving is always in my mind and try to lower the bill as much as possible.

Not to think "going to use more in the future". Unless I strike TOTO. drool.gif

This post has been edited by ozak: Mar 20 2012, 12:38 PM
ttleng
post Mar 20 2012, 12:41 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 20 2012, 12:28 PM)
A single phase 60A x 240v = 14.4Kwh. Base on your main fuse 60A. Assume you use full but limit 8hr/day and will cost you 14.4kwh x 8 x 365/12 = 3504kwh -> RM1500/mth. Do you use that much?

Blast your 5 aircon 1hp, 3fridge(1.5hp) and heater(3.2kw) consume you 3750kwh + 3375kwh + 3200kwh = 10.3kwh. Using 8hr average will cost you  10.3x8x365/12 = 2506kwh/mth - RM1059/mth. Do you use that much permonth?

This is only single phase.


Added on March 20, 2012, 12:38 pm
I will go back single pahse. Unless TNB said free upgrade 3phase for me.

What I do is just upgrade the wire and plan properlly. Saving is always in my mind and try to lower the bill as much as possible.

Not to think "going to use more in the future". Unless I strike TOTO. drool.gif
*
As i mention, my bill for single phase was RM300+. Only 3 fridge was on 24 hrs, air-cond only at night and not fix 8 hrs maybe 2~3 hrs or sometime didn't on at all.
ozak
post Mar 20 2012, 12:50 PM

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QUOTE(ttleng @ Mar 20 2012, 12:41 PM)
As i mention, my bill for single phase was RM300+. Only 3 fridge was on 24 hrs, air-cond only at night and not fix 8 hrs maybe 2~3 hrs or sometime didn't on at all.
*
I m explain to you what single phase max can do. Without 3phase.
aneip
post Mar 20 2012, 12:58 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 20 2012, 12:06 PM)
It is cause by the wiring that you overload it. You still can achieve lower bill by rewiring your house with a single phase. And limit your appliccance to 1 power point.

When your appliccance draw high watt, wire will heat up and give resistance to the voltage (voltage drop). That draw higher amp to run your applicance. And longer the distance wire, resistance is higher. Another is wire material. Use this fomula -> V / R =I 

To counter this, Use bigger dia wire and plan your house wiring system properly. Some forunner here have some good wiring plan you might search back.
*
Does 3P make a different? Let's said I use 60A, then change to 3P still use 60A. Same wire, same load = same heat? Something still missing I believe. Just wanna make sure, I understand correctly what 3P can do and cannot do.. My facebook Taman full will this discussion so wanna give feedback to them also..
ozak
post Mar 20 2012, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Mar 20 2012, 12:58 PM)
Does 3P make a different? Let's said I use 60A, then change to 3P still use 60A. Same wire, same load = same heat? Something still missing I believe. Just wanna make sure, I understand correctly what 3P can do and cannot do.. My facebook Taman full will this discussion so wanna give feedback to them also..
*
If you using Same wire, same load = same heat with the same point, no different. Cause just 1phase is wired to that point. The problem still remain there.
ttleng
post Mar 20 2012, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Mar 20 2012, 12:58 PM)
Does 3P make a different? Let's said I use 60A, then change to 3P still use 60A. Same wire, same load = same heat? Something still missing I believe. Just wanna make sure, I understand correctly what 3P can do and cannot do.. My facebook Taman full will this discussion so wanna give feedback to them also..
*
Let me give u illustration on that,
Imagine a train A pulling 1 passenger box which can carry 30 ppls.
While another train B pulling 3 passenger box which can carry 90 ppls with 30 passenger each box.

Now, if there is 60 ppls wanted to enter train A, then the box maybe fit for all 60 ppls but the situation will be crowded and will hot.

If that 60 ppls split and move to train B with 20 ppls each passenger box. Then it still normal situation .

If you load still below the limit of train A, then you can choose to enter train A. Else it will be train B.
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post Mar 20 2012, 02:06 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 20 2012, 11:35 AM)
TNB change my old single phase meter to new single phase meter, power usage seem lower too.  It could be the meter too..


Added on March 20, 2012, 11:37 am

Ah well, this is forum to discussion or exchange idea. We only give our idea, thought, and experience. At the end is still house owner decision.

I just find it irritating when people give information without data and fact, this can be very dangerous in some situation.
*
weikee, after u change to new tnb meter, u feel the power usage become lower? But i feel meter turn faster than old meter wor.......my wife got observed everyday....she said power usage higher.....



weikee
post Mar 20 2012, 02:19 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Mar 20 2012, 02:06 PM)
weikee, after u change to new tnb meter, u feel the power usage become lower? But i feel meter turn faster than old meter wor.......my wife got observed everyday....she said power usage higher.....
*
Mine is slightly lower. It could be your old meter running lower after old age, mine go faster after old age.
aneip
post Mar 20 2012, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(ttleng @ Mar 20 2012, 01:33 PM)
Let me give u illustration on that,
Imagine a train A pulling 1 passenger box which can carry 30 ppls.
While another train B pulling 3 passenger box which can carry 90 ppls with 30 passenger each box.

Now, if there is 60 ppls wanted to enter train A, then the box maybe fit for all 60 ppls but the situation will be crowded and will hot.

If that 60 ppls split and move to train B with 20 ppls each passenger box. Then it still normal situation .

If you load still below the limit of train A, then you can choose to enter train A. Else it will be train B.
*
This is what 1P vs 3P about.. 3P can support 3 time power load..

Suppose the power is over 1P can handle.. The fused will be burned.

If your house never experience power overload.. as I said let's said below 60A around 50A. Does changing 1P to 3P will affect electric bill?

ttleng
post Mar 20 2012, 02:35 PM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Mar 20 2012, 02:29 PM)
This is what 1P vs 3P about.. 3P can support 3 time power load..

Suppose the power is over 1P can handle.. The fused will be burned.

If your house never experience power overload.. as I said let's said below 60A around 50A. Does changing 1P to 3P will affect electric bill?
*
If the power consumpt lower then 60A then the bill is still same
ozak
post Mar 20 2012, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(aneip @ Mar 20 2012, 02:29 PM)
This is what 1P vs 3P about.. 3P can support 3 time power load..

Suppose the power is over 1P can handle.. The fused will be burned.

If your house never experience power overload.. as I said let's said below 60A around 50A. Does changing 1P to 3P will affect electric bill?
*
You need to calculate 3phase TNB fee + rewiring = justify the cost. Or Should I lower down my usage? Which 1 cost you more?

As long as your usage doesn't burn the main fuse, you don't need to change to 3phase. The main fuse burn is your usage benchmark.



And you can change the main fuse to higher. It doesn't limit to 60A. But not encourage. (Psst.. I didn't teach you this right.. wink.gif )
weikee
post Mar 20 2012, 02:53 PM

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My main fuse was rated 43Amp, it was given free to my by my electrician. The 60 Amps was taken by the ex-owner so no one can steal the electric during the SnP transaction.

I use for long, it never burned even all my 6 a/c switch on. Only later when I want to test full load, I swap back to a 60Amps.


Added on March 20, 2012, 2:53 pmSo 60Amps really go long way.



This post has been edited by weikee: Mar 20 2012, 02:53 PM
Eng_Tat
post Mar 20 2012, 03:53 PM

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i know 3 phase wiring is 3 16mm live wire + 25mm N wire into one db 3phase elcb. can we actually do this instead using 3+1 we do 1+1 16mm L+ 16mm n wire into 3 diffrrent db from the meter (each phase get each db (house got 3 db)) means we pull 6 wires instead of normal 4. ?
ozak
post Mar 20 2012, 04:05 PM

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Don't understand. Can you draw out?
weikee
post Mar 20 2012, 04:13 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Mar 20 2012, 03:53 PM)
i know 3 phase wiring is 3 16mm live wire + 25mm N wire into one db 3phase elcb. can we actually do this instead using 3+1 we do 1+1 16mm L+ 16mm n wire into 3 diffrrent db from the meter (each phase get each db (house got 3 db)) means we pull 6 wires instead of normal 4. ?
*
May way todo, some go to one main DB, and distribute out to another db, all depend on load how you want to do. And usually ground floor have all the 3 phases. Some design all terminate in one DB box (ground floor), and design have independent DB box per floor. If you have 3 stories, 3DB box. Some go direct to the meter. Each have its good and bad.

Usually first floor have a DB box with busbar for difference phase. If your load is not high on other floor, each floor will have only one phase. But if load is high on other floor, they will pull 3 phases to the floor, and distribute via busbar.

For my house, is single phase, but I have 2 independent DB box with independent ELCB. When ground floor trip, my first floor still ok, Vice-versa. (Technically, I can go 63 Amps x 2 smile.gif but my limit on the main fuse. )

This post has been edited by weikee: Mar 20 2012, 04:15 PM
pky
post Mar 20 2012, 07:23 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Mar 20 2012, 03:53 PM)
i know 3 phase wiring is 3 16mm live wire + 25mm N wire into one db 3phase elcb. can we actually do this instead using 3+1 we do 1+1 16mm L+ 16mm n wire into 3 diffrrent db from the meter (each phase get each db (house got 3 db)) means we pull 6 wires instead of normal 4. ?
*
Neutral cable are usually same size as phase, some, which is not advisable, will put one size smaller to reduce cost, never see anyone put one size bigger for neutral.
Yes you can have single phase to each DB, just try to balance the load as much as possible. you will have to pull 3 cables for each DB instead of 5 cable for each DB.

QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 20 2012, 04:13 PM)
May way todo, some go to one main DB, and distribute out to another db, all depend on load how you want to do. And usually ground floor have all the 3 phases. Some design all terminate in one DB box (ground floor), and design have independent DB box per floor. If you have 3 stories, 3DB box. Some go direct to the meter. Each have its good and bad.

Usually first floor have a DB box with busbar for difference phase. If your load is not high on other floor, each floor will have only one phase. But if load is high on other floor, they will pull 3 phases to the floor, and distribute via busbar.

For my house, is single phase, but I have 2 independent DB box with independent ELCB. When ground floor trip, my first floor still ok, Vice-versa. (Technically, I can go 63 Amps x 2 smile.gif but my limit on the main fuse. )
*
Fuse is there to protect the cable from overvoltage. Make sure your cable able to take the load your fuse are rated at.
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post Mar 20 2012, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(pky @ Mar 20 2012, 07:23 PM)
Neutral cable are usually same size as phase, some, which is not advisable, will put one size smaller to reduce cost, never see anyone put one size bigger for neutral.
Yes you can have single phase to each DB, just try to balance the load as much as possible. you will have to pull 3 cables for each DB instead of 5 cable for each DB.
Fuse is there to protect the cable from overvoltage. Make sure your cable able to take the load your fuse are rated at.
*
Fuse is for protecting over current. Over voltage will happen all the time, even under voltage. Some area swing around 240 +-5v

This post has been edited by weikee: Mar 20 2012, 08:42 PM
Eng_Tat
post Mar 20 2012, 11:18 PM

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sorry i dont really know how to draw cry.gif

Current set up single phase
Meter --- L 16mm+ N 16mm--- DB1 ---loop to ---DB2

Normally 3 Phases if I am not mistaken
Meter --- L 3x 16mm+ N 25mm (not sure is the correct size for N, read some where else)---DB1 ---loop to DB2

Can I just add 4 new 16mm wires (Examples)
Meter --- Phase 1 --- L 16mm+ N16mm to DB1 ---loop to DB2 (dont need to hack or disturb current wiring) (1x1.5hp ac + 1wh+ all lightings)
Meter --- Phase 2 --- L 16mm+ N16mm to DB3 (3x1.5hp ac + 1 Wh + Kitchen appliances + 10 13A Socket)
Meter --- Phase 3 --- L 16mm+ N16mm to DB4 (3x1.5hp ac + 2 Wh + 10 13A Socket)

QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 20 2012, 04:05 PM)
Don't understand. Can you draw out?
*
weikee
post Mar 20 2012, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Mar 20 2012, 11:18 PM)
sorry i dont really know how to draw cry.gif

Current set up single phase
Meter --- L 16mm+ N 16mm--- DB1 ---loop to ---DB2

Normally 3 Phases if I am not mistaken
Meter --- L 3x 16mm+ N 25mm (not sure is the correct size for N, read some where else)---DB1 ---loop to DB2

Can I just add 4 new 16mm wires (Examples)
Meter --- Phase 1 --- L 16mm+ N16mm to DB1 ---loop to DB2 (dont need to hack or disturb current wiring) (1x1.5hp ac + 1wh+ all lightings)
Meter --- Phase 2 --- L 16mm+ N16mm to DB3 (3x1.5hp ac + 1 Wh + Kitchen appliances + 10 13A Socket)
Meter --- Phase 3 --- L 16mm+ N16mm to DB4 (3x1.5hp ac + 2 Wh + 10 13A Socket)
*
Big house you have there. You did not mention where the DB box be? all same floor? If all same floor, you better of using a bigger DB box, as all fused and ELCB in once area.

Looking at your summary, your DB 4 have risk of overload too. Say if you switch all the equipment same time ( 3x 1.5 HP = 3600 Watt +-, 2x WH = 6000Watt, if someone use Iron, and put in some high current equipment e.g. Vacuum cleaner say 3000watt) You already use 12,600 Watt about 52 Amps. Few more socket you go above 63 Amps.
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post Mar 21 2012, 09:35 PM

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wei kee, small house only 22*75 5room+4bathroom. so house need 4wh. 7-8 ac. i wont pasang straight all the ac, except their piping and wiring.
ori wiring only got 1wh + 1ac point sad.gif so really need to do wiring.
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post Mar 21 2012, 09:51 PM

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You plan to use instant or storage WH? If storage maybe you can consider solar since you have 4 unit. You save the money from 3 phase and use it on Solar. Maybe top up 1 to 2k
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post Mar 22 2012, 10:16 AM

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Hi

I have asked my developer to change my wiring from single phase to 3 phase. I was charged RM3200 for below job.

SUB-MAIN 3 PHASE
3PHASE DB
METER BOX AT GATE
SUB-MAIN FIRST FLOOR

Now they finish the installation of the DB Box. But I don't know if they use the good DB box or not.
The MCB brand is Wynex.
And it only have 15 fuse.

Can anyone experienced in this area help me? Is the price reasonable and is the material used is a good one.

Thanks...

Attached Image

Attached Image
weikee
post Mar 22 2012, 10:35 AM

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Wow, 15 fused with 3 phases. I feel is over kill.
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post Mar 22 2012, 10:46 AM

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I plan to use intant wh one. i think its alot cheaper. wh with pump is around 450-550. so total will be around rm1800-2200. if used solar one need to do piping which would cost alot of money. now i would only need to do wiring for 3 toilet, which is only around 350 additional.

*when i move in i will only install 2unit first...budget problems

QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 21 2012, 09:51 PM)
You plan to use instant or storage WH? If storage maybe you can consider solar since you have 4 unit. You save the money from 3 phase and use  it on Solar. Maybe top up 1 to 2k
*
weikee
post Mar 22 2012, 11:24 AM

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This is usually how a 3 phase wiring look like

http://www.electrolesk.com/Work/Wiring%20o...ion%20Board.htm

But of course separate DB also been practice.
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post Mar 22 2012, 03:55 PM

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wei kee, those diagram is for one db with 3 rows?
ummul21
post Mar 22 2012, 03:56 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 22 2012, 11:24 AM)
This is usually how a 3 phase wiring look like

http://www.electrolesk.com/Work/Wiring%20o...ion%20Board.htm

But of course separate DB also been practice.
*
Thanks weikee for the info.

Anyway is the WYNEX brand is a reputable brand? Since I don't have any knowledge on this area, I afraid if they give any lousy brand and later have problem.

My parent house also using 3 phase (12 years old house), but the DB Box is much bigger using metal cover (schupa brand - from German)

But my DB box seems to be quite small with plastic fitting outside. looks cheapo to me... hmm.gif

Thanks...
weikee
post Mar 22 2012, 04:08 PM

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I don't know, not in this line. All i know ABB, hager is good.

Anyway, even now, hager and ABB have clone version. Hard to tell.
Eng_Tat
post Mar 22 2012, 04:18 PM

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just starting to survey for products... hager 20A mcb is rm7.80 each. is the correct price? while eps/maxguard or amber is just rm4. hager can be used in sg but eps brand is not approve in sg.
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post Mar 22 2012, 04:26 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Mar 22 2012, 04:18 PM)
just starting to survey for products... hager 20A mcb is rm7.80 each. is the correct price? while eps/maxguard or amber is just rm4. hager can be used in sg but eps brand is not approve in sg.
*
Copy 1? So cheap. Better compare price and check.
Eng_Tat
post Mar 22 2012, 04:31 PM

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erm, this one based on the boss is ori and sirim approve, selling at dealer pricing. usually the price is hw much? maybe later i snap some photo and see.

QUOTE(ozak @ Mar 22 2012, 04:26 PM)
Copy 1? So cheap. Better compare price and check.
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weikee
post Mar 22 2012, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Mar 22 2012, 04:18 PM)
just starting to survey for products... hager 20A mcb is rm7.80 each. is the correct price? while eps/maxguard or amber is just rm4. hager can be used in sg but eps brand is not approve in sg.
*
Did he put the decimal point wrong? 7.80 for hager is dirt cheap.
Eng_Tat
post Mar 22 2012, 05:01 PM

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honestly i got no idea, its 1pole 20A mcb. what is the normal pricing? later abit i take photo of it.

QUOTE(weikee @ Mar 22 2012, 04:38 PM)
Did he put the decimal point wrong? 7.80 for hager is dirt cheap.
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ozak
post Mar 22 2012, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Mar 22 2012, 04:31 PM)
erm, this one based on the boss is ori and sirim approve, selling at dealer pricing. usually the price is hw much? maybe later i snap some photo and see.
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I not sure what is the price.

You can just ask another shop with not dealer price and compare.

Anything too cheap will raise the alarm.
Eng_Tat
post Mar 22 2012, 09:28 PM

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this is the picture of the mcb, any way to know is clone?


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image
skng03
post Mar 22 2012, 11:39 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Mar 22 2012, 04:18 PM)
just starting to survey for products... hager 20A mcb is rm7.80 each. is the correct price? while eps/maxguard or amber is just rm4. hager can be used in sg but eps brand is not approve in sg.
*
Its about there, cheap one eps/ABB pice @ 4.x-5.0
weikee
post Mar 22 2012, 11:50 PM

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I know brand like ABB, Hager have difference made, price is also varied. So when buy ask where it was made.
fubu233
post Mar 23 2012, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(Brick1235 @ Mar 20 2012, 12:26 AM)
Application for TNB 63A 3-phase supply + Borang A endorsed single line diagram, endorsed Borang G & H, testing and commissioning and processing charge.

RM965

Total out RM 6438
*
i did mine for 400. complete everything till submission to TNB. just give ic, bill and SnP to the runner.
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post Mar 23 2012, 08:38 PM

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have no idea where is that hager made from, not written any where on the mcb, accept written made by hager. btw one inch white pipe can insert how many 4mm wires ideally. i know can the pipe sure can fit up to 12-15 wires. what is the different with grey pvc pipes?
phoenix69
post Jun 18 2012, 12:10 PM

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My electrician has "disappeared" after full payment. doh.gif
He has done most of the house wiring and now left the final part 3 phase application.
The meter box has 3 big plug thingy and now onlu using one of the big plug thingy.
How to go finish this.
need to go TNB and do what??? rclxub.gif
sovietmah
post Jun 18 2012, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 18 2012, 12:10 PM)
My electrician has "disappeared" after full payment.  doh.gif
He has done most of the house wiring and now left the final part 3 phase application.
The meter box has 3 big plug thingy and now onlu using one of the big plug thingy.
How to go finish this.
need to go TNB and do what???  rclxub.gif
*
you paid finished before he done his work? shakehead.gif
ameeyn
post Jun 18 2012, 05:13 PM

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i paid 600 for application and submission

already received approval from tnb

need to pay RM1600 deposit for them install new metre
weikee
post Jun 18 2012, 07:58 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 18 2012, 12:10 PM)
My electrician has "disappeared" after full payment.  doh.gif
He has done most of the house wiring and now left the final part 3 phase application.
The meter box has 3 big plug thingy and now onlu using one of the big plug thingy.
How to go finish this.
need to go TNB and do what???  rclxub.gif
*
Thought you move in already? If your house still running on single now, that mean you need to re tap the mini bus bar again in your DB box, I believe now is ask tap to single phase.
If you not sure how to do better ask an electrician to do it.
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post Jun 18 2012, 10:01 PM

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anyone knows is three phase tariff is same as single face?
JamesPond
post Jun 18 2012, 11:19 PM

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how much does it cost to upgrade a 3 phase ready house?
i got quoted for rm 3300 is it ok?


ozak
post Jun 19 2012, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(sovietmah @ Jun 18 2012, 04:50 PM)
you paid finished before he done his work?  shakehead.gif
*
If you already using and no problem, don't waste your money lah. Just use single phase will do.
weikee
post Jun 19 2012, 09:24 AM

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QUOTE(JamesPond @ Jun 18 2012, 11:19 PM)
how much does it cost to upgrade a 3 phase ready house?
i got quoted for rm 3300 is it ok?
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Just change DB box and apply 3 phases? No point if you did not add more points or use high current device.
JamesPond
post Jun 19 2012, 10:07 AM

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yes, add on something on the db box and apply 3 phase, total need to pay for both contractor and tnb deposit. all for 3300.
is it reasonable?
weikee
post Jun 19 2012, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(JamesPond @ Jun 19 2012, 10:07 AM)
yes, add on something on the db box and apply 3 phase, total need to pay for both contractor and tnb deposit. all for 3300.
is it reasonable?
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What you add? If goose was early design for single phase, doing 3 phase required neatly rewrite half the house. If rewrite half the house this is too cheap to believe.
JamesPond
post Jun 19 2012, 10:43 AM

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it is not rewiring, my house is 3 phase ready,
the technician say they will add extra db box for 3 phase support and outside to change the new meter.

is rm 3300 is reasonable? he suggest to put 60a x 3. He say no point go so high for 100a x 3.

phoenix69
post Jun 19 2012, 03:57 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 19 2012, 09:05 AM)
If you already using and no problem, don't waste your money lah. Just use single phase will do.
*
At present moment have to live with it lah.
Money all paid... and i mean ALL PAID cry.gif
weikee
post Jun 19 2012, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 19 2012, 03:57 PM)
At present moment have to live with it lah.
Money all paid... and i mean ALL PAID  cry.gif
*
Truly understand, now I cut my budget cannot go holiday this year. Still got some more improvement to do.

Try call your contractor with another number.
ozak
post Jun 19 2012, 07:04 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 19 2012, 03:57 PM)
At present moment have to live with it lah.
Money all paid... and i mean ALL PAID  cry.gif
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Man, why so many con man around. Sick of it.

Go and stalk him.
phoenix69
post Jun 20 2012, 12:13 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 19 2012, 04:56 PM)
Truly understand, now I cut my budget cannot go holiday this year. Still got some more improvement to do.

Try call your contractor with another number.
*

Tried many times. no answer rclxub.gif
ajai@jakes
post Jul 10 2012, 12:13 PM

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Guys,

I am currently thinking of renovating my house in USJ. one of the things i am thinking of doing is upgrading the electrical wiring from single phase to 3 phase, but not too sure whether i should do it or not.

I am looking to put in 1 (1.5hp) air con, 2 (1hp) inverter air con and 1 (1hp) air con plus a joven 50 liter water heater, plus a clothes dryer plus 1 electric oven.

at least 3 aircons will be running full time from 5pm until 8am the next day, water heater for 3 bathrooms for normal mandi and clothes dryer pakai maybe 3 times a week.

My electricity bill never less than RM300.

Do you think single phase is sufficient or should i upgrade to 3 phase.
jerm
post Jul 13 2012, 02:59 PM

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definitely 3, ajai
Renelle
post Jul 13 2012, 03:32 PM

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what about 3 air con, 2 water heater and 1 oven? Do i need 1 or 3 phase? Does TV and air purifier takes into account as well?
weikee
post Jul 13 2012, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(Renelle @ Jul 13 2012, 03:32 PM)
what about 3 air con, 2 water heater and 1 oven? Do i need 1 or 3 phase? Does TV and air purifier takes into account as well?
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Depend your Ac power. If 3 units of 2hp default is on the limit for single phase.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 13 2012, 03:57 PM
Renelle
post Jul 13 2012, 03:44 PM

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i think 2 of it will be 1hp unit and 1 2hp unit. But not all will be on at the same time. so 1 phase should be sufficient i supposed?
weikee
post Jul 13 2012, 04:15 PM

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QUOTE(Renelle @ Jul 13 2012, 03:44 PM)
i think 2 of it will be 1hp unit and 1 2hp unit. But not all will be on at the same time. so 1 phase should be sufficient i supposed?
*
1 HP say 4 amps each, 2HP say 8 amps, heater say 15 amps each, fridge say 2 amps but only run short hours per day. Oven I can't recall think is about 10 amps.

So in total if you switches on concurrent is about 56 amps. Lights and TV maybe 3 amps. You are about there of single phases if you switch all the same time.
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post Jul 14 2012, 09:11 PM

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sorry.

This post has been edited by Eng_Tat: Jul 14 2012, 09:12 PM
Renelle
post Jul 16 2012, 02:29 PM

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how many amps are there in a single phase?
kamion
post Jul 16 2012, 02:56 PM

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I think the limit is about 60 amps. You can check the fuse that is plugged into the meter board.

According to TNB, they advise switch to 3-phase if your usage is above 50 amps:
QUOTE
Single-phase vs. Three-phase Supply

A single-phase meter measures usage from a 230 volt supply through two (2) wires, and a 3-phase meter is supplied with 415 volts through four (4) wires.

You are advised to change from a single-phase supply to a 3-phase supply when your household electricity load exceeds 10kW or 50A.  Generally, you should change to a 3-phase supply when there are three (3) or more air-conditioners in your home.

Upgrading to a 3-phase supply will increase stability and reliability of electricity supply to your premises.



Bear in mind, you have to switch everything on at the same time. smile.gif


This post has been edited by kamion: Jul 16 2012, 02:58 PM
icekelvin
post Sep 4 2012, 11:56 AM

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hi all,

need quotation for additional ceiling fan points, aircond points.
Could someone quote based on tghe attachment? please refer to red line for the additional points. thank you.


Attached File(s)
Attached File  wiring.pdf ( 231.49k ) Number of downloads: 98
YJYYEE
post Sep 5 2012, 12:29 AM

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Planning to install 1x1.5HP inverter and 3x1HP Inverter...AC will turn on all at night ...other appliances includes 1 medium large fridge ..and 2Desktop PC plus 1 laptop with other sapsapsui things like fans and lights,modems...pls advise is it sufficient in a single phase electric supply??
georgeOYS
post Nov 3 2012, 09:08 PM

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QUOTE(dEviLs @ May 8 2008, 12:29 PM)
My new house just changed to 3-phase wiring because we have 5 air-cons and 3 water heaters sweat.gif
*
my house have 5 aircon and 2heaters, but then we still using single phase only. i dun think such few electrical items will need to use 3-phase.
btw, hows the 3phase wall socket?? is it all sockets in ur house been changed to commando plug socket??


Added on November 3, 2012, 9:10 pm
QUOTE(b00n @ May 8 2008, 10:44 AM)
Where do you get the idea that 3 phase would lead to lower electric bill?
It all depends on your consumptions. You still own the same electric and electronic devices that consumes the same amount of electricity while on 1 phase or 3 phase.

Btw, back to the topic. Look at your "fuse box".
If it's only 1 row of fuses than that's single phase. If it's 3 than it's 3 phase.

Nowadays, most house comes with 3 phases especially landed properties. However, for condos or apartments; a single phase is enough as you do not have many plug points. Ppl uses 3 phase because they have lots of plug points and do not want to overload one single phase of fuse.
*
so how is the wall socket looks like?? is all of the socket have to change to commando plug wall socket??

This post has been edited by georgeOYS: Nov 3 2012, 09:10 PM
Crept
post Nov 3 2012, 10:51 PM

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QUOTE(georgeOYS @ Nov 3 2012, 09:08 PM)
my house have 5 aircon and 2heaters, but then we still using single phase only. i dun think such few electrical items will need to use 3-phase.
btw, hows the 3phase wall socket?? is it all sockets in ur house been changed to commando plug socket??


Added on November 3, 2012, 9:10 pm
so how is the wall socket looks like?? is all of the socket have to change to commando plug wall socket??
*
blink.gif there are no different between single phase and three phase wall socket. In fact, all home wiring are all the same. The only different is the wiring at ur fuse box. biggrin.gif

Yes, u still cn run 5 aircon and 2 heaters, it all depends on how ur electrician run the wiring in ur fuse box, how he separate or loop ur wiring of ur circuit breaker plays a major part.
abitnuts
post Nov 3 2012, 10:59 PM

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at my old house, all single phase. Every few weeks electricity will down coz there are 2 houses belonging to a big family...i think like 3-4 brother sister and their families staying together. One day TNB guy come when no electricity...he was very angry and want to see our meter. I pointed him down the road whistling.gif
marineblue911
post Nov 4 2012, 01:50 PM

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Actually the question of 3 phase or single phase is really up to the amount of current (Amps) drawn.

3 Phase is a power distribution method to save cost on power lines and distribution copper cables. So for industrial and high power usage businesses like restaurants, etc, 3 phase is most efficient and cheaper to implement than single phase for the same Amps or current draw.

Each incoming is usually still 60A but at 120degree phase apart. At the DB board inside the house, the 3 phase incoming is distributed to all the different circuits to balance the load as best as possible. All equipment in our homes are single phase. Even water pumps in our homes are single phase since the power is abt 1HP.

Actually 60A single phase is quite alot of power for a house. This is steady load. Usually it is hard to exceed this unless there is many aircons, water heaters and pumps.

The big energy devices generally in increasing order: water pump, aircon compressors (1-2HP), water tank heaters (50l above), ovens. Instant heaters and small tank heaters are not really big power consumers.

Invertor aircons do help in smoothening the power draw when starting up and when used in multi room systems. Otherwise, if they are full on all the time, power load is the same as full on non-invertor aircon.

Here is some info:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3_phase_power
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_10/2.html

Cheers!
abitnuts
post Nov 4 2012, 03:15 PM

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QUOTE(marineblue911 @ Nov 4 2012, 01:50 PM)
Actually the question of 3 phase or single phase is really up to the amount of current (Amps) drawn.

3 Phase is a power distribution method to save cost on power lines and distribution copper cables. So for industrial and high power usage businesses like restaurants, etc, 3 phase is most efficient and cheaper to implement than single phase for the same Amps or current draw.

Each incoming is usually still 60A but at 120degree phase apart. At the DB board inside the house, the 3 phase incoming is distributed to all the different circuits to balance the load as best as possible. All equipment in our homes are single phase. Even water pumps in our homes are single phase since the power is abt 1HP.

Actually 60A single phase is quite alot of power for a house. This is steady load. Usually it is hard to exceed this unless there is many aircons, water heaters and pumps.

The big energy devices generally in increasing order: water pump, aircon compressors (1-2HP), water tank heaters (50l above), ovens.  Instant heaters and small tank heaters are not really big power consumers.

Invertor aircons do help in smoothening the power draw when starting up and when used in multi room systems. Otherwise, if they are full on all the time, power load is the same as full on non-invertor aircon.

Here is some info:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3_phase_power
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_10/2.html

Cheers!
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great info thumbup.gif
weikee
post Nov 4 2012, 05:52 PM

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That is why know your house usage, max concurrent drawn will be best. Not always renovation must change to 3 phase.
cherroy
post Nov 4 2012, 06:13 PM

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QUOTE(georgeOYS @ Nov 3 2012, 09:08 PM)
my house have 5 aircon and 2heaters, but then we still using single phase only. i dun think such few electrical items will need to use 3-phase.
btw, hows the 3phase wall socket?? is it all sockets in ur house been changed to commando plug socket??


Added on November 3, 2012, 9:10 pm
so how is the wall socket looks like?? is all of the socket have to change to commando plug wall socket??
*
It depends on Amp drawn.
Not about few electrical items.

A single phase can load up about 50-60A.

So you can count the electrical item need for the Amp.

A water heater (depends on type installed), can draw 1000-3000W, which translate about (if use 3000W) 3000/240v = 12.5A
So for 2 3000W water heater can consume 25A already.

1HP = 0.75KW , which require at least 3.125A.
For 5 x 1Hp require about 16A already.

If using 1.5Hp x 5 = 23.44A,

Both added together 1.5Hp + 3 x 3000KW and if using simultaneously means about 50A, not yet counting refrigerator, washing machine, and others.

Water heater/heating element, and those appliance with motor, generally are the major consumption of the electricity, so people generally target on those to count.
Lighting like a 36W light tube consume 36/240v = 0.15A only, so again can count how many Amp needed.

Can always count on your own. Very simple calculation only.

Generally if the house needs more than 50A, generally advisable got for 3 phase.

3 phase incoming doesn't mean we use 3 phase, all out household/socket is using single phase only, just you draw the current from different phase.
Just like A aircond using one phase, while B water heater using another phase, while socket using another phase.

This post has been edited by cherroy: Nov 4 2012, 06:14 PM
sovietmah
post Nov 5 2012, 10:21 AM

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I heard if change from single phase->3-phase need RM2-3K for TNB. is that true?
creativespikes
post Nov 15 2012, 12:47 AM

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I hav this plan also single to 3 phase wiring
sovietmah
post Nov 16 2012, 09:43 AM

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QUOTE(creativespikes @ Nov 15 2012, 12:47 AM)
I hav this plan also single to 3 phase wiring
*
I check with my contractor,
if the use max 5 aircon, don't need to switch to 3 phase, as long as those aircon not ON at the same time.
Means you can switch on living room aircon first then go upstair switch on the rest of aircon one by one, then is OK.

This post has been edited by sovietmah: Nov 16 2012, 09:44 AM
PJusa
post Nov 16 2012, 11:33 AM

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i have around 8 HP total A/C on single phase on at the same time. no problem at all - but i use inverter A/C.

it's not the quantity but the total peak load. all the other statements are blanket statements and dont give you a real insight. they are "guesstimates".
sovietmah
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QUOTE(PJusa @ Nov 16 2012, 11:33 AM)
i have around 8 HP total A/C on single phase on at the same time. no problem at all - but i use inverter A/C.

it's not the quantity but the total peak load. all the other statements are blanket statements and dont give you a real insight. they are "guesstimates".
*
OK noted.
then I dont want waste too much money to change to 3-phase.

PJusa
post Nov 16 2012, 03:50 PM

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its probably best you check what appliances you intend to use and how. then you can assess your maximum load and choose accordingly. with today's electrical appliances you use much less power in total and more importantly peak loads are lower (remember the old aircons with a seperate starter point, the start-up load was too high so they couldnt be used with a normal 13 Amp plug, now even a 2 HP inverter doesnt have a problem with a 13 Amp plug). I think the wisdom 4 (or whatever) aircons or more = 3 phase wiring comes from the old old high start up loads.

i can even run all a/cs, my fridges, pcs, etc. and on my oven to bake a cake and 1 phase is still fine.
sovietmah
post Nov 16 2012, 03:52 PM

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QUOTE(PJusa @ Nov 16 2012, 03:50 PM)
its probably best you check what appliances you intend to use and how. then you can assess your maximum load and choose accordingly. with today's electrical appliances you use much less power in total and more importantly peak loads are lower (remember the old aircons with a seperate starter point, the start-up load was too high so they couldnt be used with a normal 13 Amp plug, now even a 2 HP inverter doesnt have a problem with a 13 Amp plug). I think the wisdom 4 (or whatever) aircons or more = 3 phase wiring comes from the old old high start up loads.

i can even run all a/cs, my fridges, pcs, etc. and on my oven to bake a cake and 1 phase is still fine.
*
True true.
the electric appliance condition also affect the situation.
I planned to install 5 inverter aircon, 3 heater, 1 fridge and usual power socket.
PJusa
post Nov 16 2012, 11:34 PM

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the heaters might be an issue. what heaters precisely? i have "traded-in" the good old electric heaters with a whole house gas-water-heater from rinnai.

some of the heaters suck over 3000 W and they have huge peak loads.
creativespikes
post Nov 17 2012, 01:09 AM

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QUOTE(sovietmah @ Nov 16 2012, 03:52 PM)
True true.
the electric appliance condition also affect the situation.
I planned to install 5 inverter aircon, 3 heater, 1 fridge and usual power socket.
*
blink.gif I checked with my contractor(very very close friend with me) he die die also don't wan to help me to convert 3phase. 3 persons only staying in a hse, why waste $$. But I was thinking, to add fuse box & standby for future use.
ozak
post Nov 17 2012, 08:33 AM

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QUOTE(creativespikes @ Nov 17 2012, 01:09 AM)
blink.gif I checked with my contractor(very very close friend with me) he die die also don't wan to help me to convert 3phase. 3 persons only staying in a hse, why waste $$. But I was thinking, to add fuse box & standby for future use.
*
Why you want to waste the money to convert something that not neccessary?

Don't be so good lah to TNB.
sovietmah
post Nov 18 2012, 08:11 AM

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QUOTE(creativespikes @ Nov 17 2012, 01:09 AM)
blink.gif I checked with my contractor(very very close friend with me) he die die also don't wan to help me to convert 3phase. 3 persons only staying in a hse, why waste $$. But I was thinking, to add fuse box & standby for future use.
*
Same situation, I want to pay my contractor to change to 3-phase, then my contractor keep stop me. sweat.gif
creativespikes
post Nov 18 2012, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(sovietmah @ Nov 18 2012, 08:11 AM)
Same situation, I want to pay my contractor to change to 3-phase, then my contractor keep stop me.  sweat.gif
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Look like me not going to invest on 3-phase
abitnuts
post Nov 18 2012, 11:39 PM

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worst comes to worst move to factory building...definitely 3 phase tongue.gif
weikee
post Nov 18 2012, 11:49 PM

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Why need 3p? running concurrent 3 water heater + 3 a/c + fridge? or have 300 units of lights lighting everyday?


ozak
post Nov 18 2012, 11:56 PM

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I don't understand why people keep on thinking want to pay more for the bill. Are they really rich to think use as much electricity as possible?

If my bill over rm100, Gigi sudah sakit.
weikee
post Nov 19 2012, 09:07 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Nov 18 2012, 11:56 PM)
I don't understand why people keep on thinking want to pay more for the bill. Are they really rich to think use as much electricity as possible?

If my bill over rm100, Gigi sudah sakit.
*
Maybe many people monthly bill are above 500
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post Nov 19 2012, 09:53 AM

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QUOTE(sovietmah @ Nov 16 2012, 09:43 AM)
I check with my contractor,
if the use max 5 aircon, don't need to switch to 3 phase, as long as those aircon not ON at the same time.
Means you can switch on living room aircon first then go upstair switch on the rest of aircon one by one, then is OK.
*
Yes, you are right in the sense of when you ON any appliances, the initial A can goes up to 6 times higher.
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post Nov 19 2012, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Nov 19 2012, 09:53 AM)
Yes, you are right in the sense of when you ON any appliances, the initial A can goes up to 6 times higher.
*
Modern circuit have made some improvement and some even put in current limiter this reducing the rushin current for startup motor. Even if it go up 6x, is only few seconds.


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post Nov 19 2012, 01:37 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 19 2012, 10:22 AM)
Modern circuit have made some improvement and some even put in current limiter this reducing the rushin current for startup motor. Even if it go up 6x, is only few seconds.
*
Yup, just a short while high peak, later it will goes back to the normal A.
That is why usually those contractor will ask the house owner try not to ON a few units of aircond at the same time.
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post Nov 19 2012, 01:40 PM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Nov 19 2012, 01:37 PM)
Yup, just a short while high peak, later it will goes back to the normal A.
That is why usually those contractor will ask the house owner try not to ON a few units of aircond at the same time.
*
The current rushing is not even over 1sec. Just 0.5 or less. The main fuse won't blow at all.

All this possibility, I have conduct experiment before.
weikee
post Nov 19 2012, 01:45 PM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Nov 19 2012, 01:37 PM)
Yup, just a short while high peak, later it will goes back to the normal A.
That is why usually those contractor will ask the house owner try not to ON a few units of aircond at the same time.
*
Wonder how can the house owner switch on the same time? Even after power trip, the A/C auto on is also random timed, that was one of the reason the random switch on time was design.


Added on November 19, 2012, 1:47 pmAh well, maybe we have many well to do home owner, target to have lots of high HP a/c switch on, and few hundreds lights switch on daily. Ok to pay for TNB.

Maybe I should buy TNB share already smile.gif

This post has been edited by weikee: Nov 19 2012, 01:47 PM
ozak
post Nov 19 2012, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 19 2012, 01:45 PM)
Wonder how can the house owner switch on the same time? Even after power trip, the A/C auto on is also random timed, that was one of the reason the random switch on time was design.


Added on November 19, 2012, 1:47 pmAh well, maybe we have many well to do home owner, target to have lots of high HP a/c switch on, and few hundreds lights switch on daily. Ok to pay for TNB.

Maybe I should buy TNB share already smile.gif
*
Fast, go buy the share.

I heard the rate will increase next yrs. TNB ceo and the petronas ceo have no idea how to absorb the extra subsidy anymore. The raw material like gas and coal is already increase.


weikee
post Nov 19 2012, 04:03 PM

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Someone told me the actual rate will be about RM 0.5 per kw, could be higher. All thanks to the IPP "special lock price" to TNB, and over supply. Ah well is only speculation.

But do expect to go up North after 13GE.
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post Nov 19 2012, 05:08 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Nov 19 2012, 01:40 PM)
The current rushing is not even over 1sec. Just 0.5 or less. The main fuse won't blow at all. 

All this possibility, I have conduct experiment before.
*
It is possible i think, just the chance is super slim.

QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 19 2012, 01:45 PM)
Wonder how can the house owner switch on the same time? Even after power trip, the A/C auto on is also random timed, that was one of the reason the random switch on time was design.


Added on November 19, 2012, 1:47 pmAh well, maybe we have many well to do home owner, target to have lots of high HP a/c switch on, and few hundreds lights switch on daily. Ok to pay for TNB.

Maybe I should buy TNB share already smile.gif
*
It is possible if 2 persons in the same house ON the aircond at the same timing. But as i mentioned earlier the chance is super slim.

Or this is one of the reason for contractor to excuse themself if something wrong happened? brows.gif
weikee
post Nov 19 2012, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Nov 19 2012, 05:08 PM)
It is possible i think, just the chance is super slim.
It is possible if 2 persons in the same house ON the aircond at the same timing. But as i mentioned earlier the chance is super slim.

Or this is one of the reason for contractor to excuse themself if something wrong happened?  brows.gif
*
When testing my house wiring, i switch on all my 6 units of a/c + 2 water heater, My ELCB did not trip, only my main fused beside the meter blow after about 10mins of used. That is because the fused was rated 40+ amps (think it come from 3 phases) free from my electrician. Change it back to 60Amps, that should allow me to handle up to 14,440 watt. More than my 6 a/c + 2 heater. biggrin.gif


ozak
post Nov 19 2012, 05:33 PM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Nov 19 2012, 05:08 PM)
It is possible i think, just the chance is super slim.
I always play with this motor or heater and conduct actual test of the ampere running. With the instrument checking, I can see how much the current rushing and how fast it will drop. Even I can put in the same amp fuse without blow it in short time.

Don't worry about the rushing current or bla bla bla. Even if the single phase running max amp, I can simply replace the fuse with a bigger 1. tongue.gif
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post Nov 19 2012, 09:22 PM

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From the way it sounds like paying extra to get a 3 phase wiring is not worth while huh.
Unless the no of appliances is really huge in a house.
weikee
post Nov 19 2012, 09:25 PM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Nov 19 2012, 09:22 PM)
From the way it sounds like paying extra to get a 3 phase wiring is not worth while huh.
Unless the no of appliances is really huge in a house.
*
Is not sound, is actually not worth it if your appliance are not power hunger.

This post has been edited by weikee: Nov 19 2012, 09:26 PM
enriquelee
post Nov 19 2012, 09:42 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 19 2012, 09:25 PM)
Is not sound, is actually not worth it if your appliance are not power hunger.
*
Any second opinion here?
PJusa
post Nov 20 2012, 12:16 AM

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i 100% agree with weikee - no reason for any "sound mind" to say differently. unless you need it (which in most cases you wont) there is absolutely no need for 3-phases.
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post Nov 22 2012, 09:27 AM

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Then we confirm here, 3 phases is not necessary unless under 'special' circumstances. icon_rolleyes.gif
supercolossal
post Nov 22 2012, 09:53 AM

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If my monthly bill is about RM250 with total usage about ~600KwH. Can somebody help me calculate the current load on the single phase?
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post Nov 22 2012, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Nov 22 2012, 09:27 AM)
Then we confirm here, 3 phases is not necessary unless under 'special' circumstances.  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
The proper way is to check your whole house electrical applicance wattage using. Than total up the wattage. Some not using everydayo, minus out.

Weikee already state that as long as it doesn't over 14,400watt total usage, you don't neeed change to 3phase.
ozak
post Nov 22 2012, 10:07 AM

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QUOTE(supercolossal @ Nov 22 2012, 09:53 AM)
If my monthly bill is about RM250 with total usage about ~600KwH. Can somebody help me calculate the current load on the single phase?
*
It can't be calculate in this way.

You need a current meter/ thong meter to check the actual usage.
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post Nov 22 2012, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Nov 22 2012, 10:04 AM)
The proper way is to check your whole house electrical applicance wattage using. Than total up the wattage. Some not using everydayo, minus out.

Weikee already state that as long as it doesn't over 14,400watt total usage, you don't neeed change to 3phase.
*
weikee, is this correct? unsure.gif
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post Nov 22 2012, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(enriquelee @ Nov 22 2012, 01:41 PM)
weikee, is this correct?  unsure.gif
*
If consistan using 14,400 or maybe at 90% 13,000 watt than is good to change to 3 phase, but only just short spike don't need.

BTW, if using 14,400 watt, that is paying RM 5+ per hours, if use for 3 hours perday that is paying RM 450.00 for just this 3 hours x 30 days. Add with other daily usage, minimal house hold electrical bills will go up to RM 500++

This post has been edited by weikee: Nov 22 2012, 02:27 PM
enriquelee
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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 22 2012, 02:26 PM)
If consistan using 14,400 or maybe at 90% 13,000 watt than is good to change to 3 phase, but only just short spike don't need.

BTW, if using 14,400 watt, that is paying RM 5+ per hours,  if use for 3 hours perday that is paying RM 450.00 for just this 3 hours x 30 days. Add with other daily usage, minimal house hold electrical bills will go up to RM 500++
*
I see.

That sounds a lot to me. But very likely some other users really paying at this quantum.

weikee
post Nov 22 2012, 02:51 PM

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Monthly bill rate is not a good way for 3 phase decision. Need to know the house peak load.

If one stay in bungalow, sure the normal peak load will sometime exceed 14.4kw

For my humble double story house, during party, i switch on most of the lights, and 3 units of a/c without switching on the water heater. Still fine, that nigh itself only use about 8kwh for 2.5 hours.

Most important, as house owner, know how much your utilities bill and where and why the amount coming from. Be wise.

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post Nov 22 2012, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 19 2012, 05:18 PM)
When testing my house wiring, i switch on all my 6 units of a/c + 2 water heater, My ELCB did not trip, only my main fused beside the meter blow after about 10mins of used. That is because the fused was rated 40+ amps (think it come from 3 phases) free from my electrician. Change it back to 60Amps, that should allow me to handle up to 14,440 watt. More than my 6 a/c + 2 heater.  biggrin.gif
*
ELCB wont trip during an overload la shakehead.gif
weikee
post Nov 22 2012, 03:29 PM

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ELCB is Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker
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post Nov 22 2012, 11:36 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 22 2012, 03:29 PM)
ELCB is Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker
*
So u know it wont protect against overcurrent, right? Good
weikee
post Nov 22 2012, 11:54 PM

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QUOTE(endau02 @ Nov 22 2012, 11:36 PM)
So u know it wont protect against overcurrent, right? Good
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Yes, and earlier is my typo error, is the main CB (c63) in the DB box that did not trip.
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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 22 2012, 11:54 PM)
Yes, and earlier is my typo error, is the main CB (c63) in the DB box that did not trip.
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haha okok smile.gif

weikee
post Nov 23 2012, 12:07 AM

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Actually if i run 40amp on my first floor, and 40 amps at my ground floor. It won't trip. Because I run two separate DB box, with independent ELCB and main MCB. Only the incoming fused will blow.

Technically, i can just pull one more phase for my first floor. Too bad, TNB don't offer 2 phase circuit biggrin.gif
ricstc
post Nov 23 2012, 12:14 AM

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QUOTE(b00n @ May 8 2008, 10:44 AM)
Where do you get the idea that 3 phase would lead to lower electric bill?
It all depends on your consumptions. You still own the same electric and electronic devices that consumes the same amount of electricity while on 1 phase or 3 phase.

Btw, back to the topic. Look at your "fuse box".
If it's only 1 row of fuses than that's single phase. If it's 3 than it's 3 phase.

Nowadays, most house comes with 3 phases especially landed properties. However, for condos or apartments; a single phase is enough as you do not have many plug points. Ppl uses 3 phase because they have lots of plug points and do not want to overload one single phase of fuse.
*
Not because youre STAFF and want to agree with you - but - you are right. Ive 3 phase wiring when I purchased my house and my bill with 2 air cond (10 hours each a day) and nothing other significantly large power consuming equipment at home - my TNB bill has been constantly on the average RM450 per month - now for 4 years and going.

So whoever thinks that 3 phase wiring means save TNB bill - hello wakey wakey
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post Nov 23 2012, 06:31 AM

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Thanks for the tip. Just wanted to know. I guess I'm still ok on single phase smile.gif
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post Nov 23 2012, 09:12 AM

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2 a/c only and not even on 24/7? why is your consumption so high? you must have serious room for reducing your power consumption.
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post Nov 24 2012, 10:24 PM

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Yeah, i feel it is kind of high as well.
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post Nov 29 2012, 02:42 PM

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Gemelite Interior Studio,

how is this advertisement related to 3-phase wiring? Use the services notice board and remove this post OK?
iraz
post Nov 29 2012, 04:15 PM

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sifus,

would like to share my experience changing fr 1 phase to 3 phase. i had no idea the financial impact until i went thru the ordeal....All below are TNB cost alone.

Just renovated my semiD house. Since I have 13 AC plus some other equipments, I decided to change to 3 phase.
1. TNB Meter location was at next to one of the gate pillar. Since I expand the gate, I need to relocate the meter (and change 1 phase to 3phase meter). The cost to relocate the meter is a whopping RM8.5K - just to terminate the old 1 phase and relocate.
2. Cost to pull new 100A cable (3 phase) from TNB substation (50m away) to the new meter is another RM8.9K. This one is really bothersome as TNB needs to apply permit from local council to dig the road etc.

Work scope 1 and 2 involved two different departments from TNB.

I am still waiting for TNB to lay the new cable and currently my house is powered using the old 1 phase still. Note I am not using all the ACs, the most is 5 AC at a time.

My question: is item 1 is really reasonable/necessary - I cannot believe 8.5K just to terminate the 1 phase cable and relocate. Any feedback appreciated.
sovietmah
post Nov 29 2012, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(iraz @ Nov 29 2012, 04:15 PM)
sifus,

would like to share my experience changing fr 1 phase to 3 phase. i had no idea the financial impact until i went thru the ordeal....All below are TNB cost alone.

Just renovated my semiD house. Since I have 13 AC plus some other equipments, I decided to change to 3 phase.
1. TNB Meter location was at next to one of the gate pillar. Since I expand the gate, I need to relocate the meter (and change 1 phase to 3phase meter). The cost to relocate the meter is a whopping RM8.5K - just to terminate the old 1 phase and relocate.
2. Cost to pull new 100A cable (3 phase) from TNB substation (50m away) to the new meter is another RM8.9K. This one is really bothersome as TNB needs to apply permit from local council to dig the road etc.

Work scope 1 and 2 involved two different departments from TNB.

I am still waiting for TNB to lay the new cable and currently my house is powered using the old 1 phase still. Note I am not using all the ACs, the most is 5 AC at a time.

My question: is item 1 is really reasonable/necessary - I cannot believe 8.5K just to terminate the 1 phase cable and relocate. Any feedback appreciated.
*
i think dun need to change to 3 phase
ozak
post Nov 29 2012, 05:47 PM

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QUOTE(iraz @ Nov 29 2012, 04:15 PM)
sifus,

would like to share my experience changing fr 1 phase to 3 phase. i had no idea the financial impact until i went thru the ordeal....All below are TNB cost alone.

Just renovated my semiD house. Since I have 13 AC plus some other equipments, I decided to change to 3 phase.
1. TNB Meter location was at next to one of the gate pillar. Since I expand the gate, I need to relocate the meter (and change 1 phase to 3phase meter). The cost to relocate the meter is a whopping RM8.5K - just to terminate the old 1 phase and relocate.
2. Cost to pull new 100A cable (3 phase) from TNB substation (50m away) to the new meter is another RM8.9K. This one is really bothersome as TNB needs to apply permit from local council to dig the road etc.

Work scope 1 and 2 involved two different departments from TNB.

I am still waiting for TNB to lay the new cable and currently my house is powered using the old 1 phase still. Note I am not using all the ACs, the most is 5 AC at a time.

My question: is item 1 is really reasonable/necessary - I cannot believe 8.5K just to terminate the 1 phase cable and relocate. Any feedback appreciated.
*
Have you finish renovate and enjoying staying? Or still doing the renovation?

If you already staying and running 1phase, than continue using it and monitor any fuse blow that cause by overcurrent. (overuse) If it didn't happen, than save your money.

But if you pay everything already, than no choice but continue your 3phase.
weikee
post Nov 30 2012, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(iraz @ Nov 29 2012, 04:15 PM)
sifus,

would like to share my experience changing fr 1 phase to 3 phase. i had no idea the financial impact until i went thru the ordeal....All below are TNB cost alone.

Just renovated my semiD house. Since I have 13 AC plus some other equipments, I decided to change to 3 phase.
1. TNB Meter location was at next to one of the gate pillar. Since I expand the gate, I need to relocate the meter (and change 1 phase to 3phase meter). The cost to relocate the meter is a whopping RM8.5K - just to terminate the old 1 phase and relocate.
2. Cost to pull new 100A cable (3 phase) from TNB substation (50m away) to the new meter is another RM8.9K. This one is really bothersome as TNB needs to apply permit from local council to dig the road etc.

Work scope 1 and 2 involved two different departments from TNB.

I am still waiting for TNB to lay the new cable and currently my house is powered using the old 1 phase still. Note I am not using all the ACs, the most is 5 AC at a time.

My question: is item 1 is really reasonable/necessary - I cannot believe 8.5K just to terminate the 1 phase cable and relocate. Any feedback appreciated.
*
You pay directly to TNB or agent? Sound expensive to me. My neighbor change to 3 phase, but remain the meter on the wall, she told me is cheaper alternative but it sure look one kind with 4 cables loop in. Did not ask her the actual conversion cost her, but she told me was not too bad, less than 5k.

Maybe your due to the covnersion and moving meter to the gate. Is the power pole right outside your house or accross the road? SemiD may need 3 phase since you have 13 AC
iraz
post Nov 30 2012, 09:16 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Nov 29 2012, 05:47 PM)
Have you finish renovate and enjoying staying? Or still doing the renovation?

If you already staying and running 1phase, than continue using it and monitor any fuse blow that cause by overcurrent. (overuse) If it didn't happen, than save your money.

But if you pay everything already, than no choice but continue your 3phase.
*
Hi Ozak - Yes I have finished renovated. I Have paid item 2 but not item 1 as I am still arguing with TNB on the termination method.

QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 30 2012, 12:15 AM)
You pay directly to TNB or agent?  Sound expensive to me. My neighbor change to 3 phase, but remain the meter on the wall, she told me is cheaper alternative but it sure look one kind with 4 cables loop in. Did not ask her the  actual conversion cost her, but she told me was not too bad, less than 5k.

Maybe your due to the covnersion and moving meter to the gate. Is the power pole right outside your house or accross the road?  SemiD may need 3 phase since you have 13 AC
*
Hi Weikee - I paid directly to TNB and they appoint their contractor. Item 2 I can understand since it will involved new cable plus labor but item 1 I think not reasonable. They will pull the new cable from substation (not power pole) which is about 50ft (not m as per my earlier posting) from my house.
weikee
post Nov 30 2012, 10:32 AM

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QUOTE(iraz @ Nov 30 2012, 09:16 AM)
Hi Ozak - Yes I have finished renovated. I Have paid item 2 but not item 1 as I am still arguing with TNB on the termination method.
Hi Weikee - I paid directly to TNB and they appoint their contractor. Item 2 I can understand since it will involved new cable plus labor but item 1 I think not reasonable. They will pull the new cable from substation (not power pole) which is about 50ft (not m as per my earlier posting) from my house.
*
Item 1 really look expensive. Dealing with TNB is never cheap, I relocate my meter, ask TNB relocate the wires already cost me RM 1.2k. Maybe you ask them for breakdown detail.
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post Dec 12 2012, 12:43 PM

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My house was caught in fire 3 days ago because of newly install TNB meter. Luckily there was no one injuired in this incident and only my shoe rack were burn completely,heavy duty tiles are crack, my ceiling turns black, fortunately I didn't park my car near there but I am really really angry and frustrated with TNB and contractor "Tai Chi" style working attitude. First this TNB blame us of overloading the meter. Come on lah...my husband and I were not around. Nobody was in the house. How to overload?

Then wireman contractor saying that not his fault, definitely can ask TNB for compensation. What he did? He took some photos, collect evidence and so on.....

Then he ask TNB come to discuss with us. You know what the TNB guy saying?
He said it caused by internal problem 'malapetaka' or is 'natural disaster'.
"The spark came from the TNB meter ..but... because of the shoe rack underneath then cause the fire happen." Then the contractor added:"might because of some papers and other flammable material putting on top of the rack."

Their negligence is jeopardizing our safety.


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iraz
post Dec 12 2012, 08:38 PM

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Really sorry to hear this bro...i feel for you.

Yeah dealing with TNB is suck big time for me lah.. They dont have one centralise customer service center..nobody being assigned to my case...its up to me to check and see the appropriate person...


ozak
post Dec 13 2012, 09:11 AM

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QUOTE(mccool @ Dec 12 2012, 12:43 PM)
My house was caught in fire 3 days ago because of newly install TNB meter. Luckily there was no one injuired in this incident and only my shoe rack were burn completely,heavy duty tiles are crack, my ceiling turns black, fortunately I didn't park my car near there but I am really really angry and frustrated with TNB and contractor "Tai Chi" style working attitude. First this TNB blame us of overloading the meter. Come on lah...my husband and I were not around. Nobody was in the house. How to overload?

Then wireman contractor saying that not his fault, definitely can ask TNB for compensation. What he did? He took some photos, collect evidence and so on.....

Then he ask TNB come to discuss with us. You know what the TNB guy saying?
He said it caused by internal problem 'malapetaka' or is 'natural disaster'.
"The spark came from the TNB meter ..but... because of the shoe rack underneath then cause the fire happen." Then the contractor added:"might because of some papers and other flammable material putting on top of the rack."

Their negligence is jeopardizing our safety.
*
Have you ask what is the actual cause? The wire loose connection and cause sparking. Or the meter is fault. Try make a claim at the TNB office.

My friend sis house got surge and spoil some electrical applicance. Go TNB claim. First deny their problem. After point to some neighbour also have same problem, than start to admit. Probably they already know after many complain from same area. Now enjoying new TV, fridge etc..

When repairing, try to place the meter at the side of the gate. That will put the meter far away from the house. Most of the new house meter is beside the gate now.
weikee
post Dec 13 2012, 10:11 AM

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That also one of the reason why I enggage TNB to relocate the front 4 black wires. In case of such incident, they don't have excuse that is my illegal modding.

mccool. sorry to hear this, most important no one was hurt and damage is on small area (hopefully). My mom distance neighbor had this issue lucky the damage saw low because it was discover earlier and the entire row of house power trip. They just came replace the burned wires and did not say anything at all.


ozak
post Dec 13 2012, 10:26 AM

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It happen to my beside neighbour too. 1 night of nowhere, the wire joint connecting box catch fire and burn out. Just beside the house front door. Lucky a small burn out. This joint is extend by TNB when neigbour do renovation.

It is the connecting oxidise/loose. It will get hot and eventually melt and burn.

Normally a high voltage cable joint need to seal it properly with somekind of potting material.
weikee
post Dec 13 2012, 10:37 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 13 2012, 10:26 AM)
It happen to my beside neighbour too. 1 night of nowhere, the wire joint connecting box catch fire and burn out. Just beside the house front door. Lucky a small burn out. This joint is extend by TNB when neigbour do renovation.

It is the connecting oxidise/loose. It will get hot and eventually melt and burn.

Normally a high voltage cable joint need to seal it properly with somekind of potting material.
*
Think also need to see where the supply is. If the house is first half of the entire row of the house it need proper "solder" or sealing material. If after that the supply current have drop, proper tight screw to join both the cables are good already. But they have to measure the heat for safety.

I have test using the laser heat measurement tool (borrow from my friend workshop), few round test the measurement on the join box look reasonable. hopefully stay like that.
ozak
post Dec 13 2012, 11:00 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 13 2012, 10:37 AM)
Think also need to see where the supply is. If the house is first half of the entire row of the house it need proper "solder" or sealing material. If after that the supply current have drop, proper tight screw to join both the cables are good already. But they have to measure the heat for safety.

I have test using the laser heat measurement tool (borrow from my friend workshop), few round test the measurement on the join box look reasonable. hopefully stay like that.
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It is the beginning wire come from the pole.

The measurement have to conduct at night to get the max result. Which is the highest load.
weikee
post Dec 13 2012, 11:30 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 13 2012, 11:00 AM)
It is the beginning wire come from the pole.

The measurement have to conduct at night to get the max result. Which is the highest load.
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Yeah measure few time difference timing including midnight during hot days.
mccool
post Dec 15 2012, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 13 2012, 09:11 AM)
Have you ask what is the actual cause? The wire loose connection and cause sparking. Or the meter is fault. Try make a claim at the TNB office.

My friend sis house got surge and spoil some electrical applicance. Go TNB claim. First deny their problem. After point to some neighbour also have same problem, than start to admit. Probably they already know after many complain from same area. Now enjoying new TV, fridge etc..

When repairing, try to place the meter at the side of the gate. That will put the meter far away from the house. Most of the new house meter is beside the gate now.
*
Thanks for concerning. We will write a letter to TNB and our contractor, the spark started from the meter box. But I think we will loose since the TNB guy just came to look see look see and claim it's not their fault. He said we can claim but taking longer time. But we don't care, we will keep on pressuring the contractor and TNB.


My heavy duty floor tiles also cracked because of the temperature was too high.

For them, they can push everything. But they never think of our safety.

This post has been edited by mccool: Dec 15 2012, 11:51 AM
enriquelee
post Dec 16 2012, 01:25 PM

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mccool, i feel sorry for you.
Have you find out the cause of fire? If really TNB fault, i think better go TNB by yourself rather than serving letter.
SUSendau02
post Dec 19 2012, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Nov 19 2012, 05:33 PM)
I always play with this motor or heater and conduct actual test of the ampere running. With the instrument checking, I can see how much the current rushing and how fast it will drop. Even I can put in the same amp fuse without blow it in short time.

Don't worry about the rushing current or bla bla bla. Even if the single phase running max amp, I can simply replace the fuse with a bigger 1.  tongue.gif
*
the bigger fuse can take it. but can ur existing cable take it continuously? even if u change to bigger cable, u still cant change the incoming, as it is TNB's property.


Added on December 19, 2012, 12:21 pm3 phase is not needed, if:

a) ur load can be handled by single phase
b) u dun need 400V supply

fixed

This post has been edited by endau02: Dec 19 2012, 02:36 PM
weikee
post Dec 19 2012, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(endau02 @ Dec 19 2012, 12:19 PM)
the bigger fuse can take it. but can ur existing cable take it continuously? even if u change to bigger cable, u still cant change the incoming, as it is TNB's property.


Added on December 19, 2012, 12:21 pm3 phase is not needed, if:

a) ur load can be handled by single phase
b) u need 400V supply
*
Anything with 415v will required 3 Phase. There is no 400V load, country like UK tolerarance voltage is betweet 390v to 440v, and usually the equipment that need 3 phase will have such tolerance level. I believe Bolehland also similar.

A single phase for a house can take up to max 63Amps. Theoratically If all the house in the same row run the load at max, the incoming cable will not be able to take it. Even for 3 phases.
SUSendau02
post Dec 19 2012, 01:33 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 19 2012, 12:54 PM)
Anything with 415v will required 3 Phase. There is no 400V load, country like UK tolerarance voltage is betweet 390v to 440v, and usually the equipment that need 3 phase will have such tolerance level. I believe Bolehland also similar.

415V was yesterday. now 3 phase voltage is 400V phase to phase.

A single phase for a house can take up to max 63Amps. Theoratically If all the house in the same row run the load at max, the incoming cable will not be able to take it. Even for 3 phases.

Too bad, its a bad design. My boss will fark me if i do dis kinda work in the panel. Sum of the downstream should not more than the incoming

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weikee
post Dec 19 2012, 02:24 PM

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Please read back what you wrote.

You wrote:

..........................................
3 phase is not needed, if:

a) ur load can be handled by single phase
b) u need 400V supply
.........................................


For load, i don't deal with 3 phase, maybe is a new trendto use 400v, it does not matter because the equipment should be design to have some tolererance level.

This post has been edited by weikee: Dec 19 2012, 02:25 PM
SUSendau02
post Dec 19 2012, 02:35 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 19 2012, 02:24 PM)
Please read back what you wrote.

You wrote:

..........................................
3 phase is not needed, if:

a) ur load can be handled by single phase
b) u dont need 400V supply
.........................................
For load, i don't deal with 3 phase, maybe is a new trendto use 400v, it does not matter because the equipment should be design to have some tolererance level.
*
ok fixed. thnx n sorry for that.

last time was 415V, now its drop to 400V. simple as that.
weikee
post Dec 19 2012, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(endau02 @ Dec 19 2012, 02:35 PM)
ok fixed. thnx n sorry for that.

last time was 415V, now its drop to 400V. simple as that.
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Something new I learn today. Thank you.
ozak
post Dec 19 2012, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(endau02 @ Dec 19 2012, 12:19 PM)
the bigger fuse can take it. but can ur existing cable take it continuously? even if u change to bigger cable, u still cant change the incoming, as it is TNB's property.


Added on December 19, 2012, 12:21 pm3 phase is not needed, if:

a) ur load can be handled by single phase
b) u dun need 400V supply

fixed
*
The main TNB wire anytime can handle over 300A. The wire that come into your elcb can handle 100A. And it is very short lenght. The load it not for a single device and it is for distribute. (the whole house)

The changing of the fuse is not like change it to double the amount. And this is for the knowledge people to do it. Not advise for ordinary people.


Added on December 19, 2012, 9:50 pm
QUOTE(endau02 @ Dec 19 2012, 02:35 PM)
ok fixed. thnx n sorry for that.

last time was 415V, now its drop to 400V. simple as that.
*
Are you sure now the voltage drop to 400V? My working place still showing 415-420V. And the single phase still give crazy 250v.

This post has been edited by ozak: Dec 19 2012, 09:50 PM
SUSendau02
post Dec 19 2012, 11:27 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 19 2012, 09:45 PM)
The main TNB wire anytime can handle over 300A. The wire that come into your elcb can handle 100A. And it is very short lenght. The load it not for a single device and it is for distribute. (the whole house)

The changing of the fuse is not like change it to double the amount. And this is for the knowledge people to do it. Not advise for ordinary people.

indeed very true smile.gif


Added on December 19, 2012, 9:50 pm
Are you sure now the voltage drop to 400V? My working place still showing 415-420V. And the single phase still give crazy 250v.

call in and ask the person incharge

http://orangkompeten.blogspot.com/2009/12/...an-nominal.html

http://www.tnb.com.my/application/uploads/...aded/ESAHv3.pdf


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ozak
post Dec 20 2012, 12:27 AM

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Tha changing seem like no meaning at all. 400 + 10% and 415 + 5% ?

And mostly now the electrical applicance manufacturing don't put the voltage at 230v anymore. All state at 240v. Have you realize it? I have long forgotten when they change it from 230v. It seems like opposite way?

Mostly I deal with Japan voltage which is 100v for single phase and 200v for 3phase/2phase. So I didn't realize what the TNB is changing. ( and seems no change at all)
SUSendau02
post Dec 20 2012, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 20 2012, 12:27 AM)
Tha changing seem like no meaning at all. 400 + 10% and 415 + 5% ?

And mostly now the electrical applicance manufacturing don't put the voltage at 230v anymore. All state at 240v. Have you realize it? I have long forgotten when they change it from 230v. It seems like opposite way?

Mostly I deal with Japan voltage which is 100v for single phase and 200v for 3phase/2phase. So I didn't realize what the TNB is changing. ( and seems no change at all)
*
ya, 415V to 400V is small amount. too small
phoenix69
post Jan 11 2013, 02:00 PM

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If my neighbour got 3 phase already, my house is 3 phase ready but electical wiring contractor cabut already, to complete the 3 phase wiring what to do and estimate how much ah?
~Curious~
post Jan 13 2013, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jan 11 2013, 02:00 PM)
If my neighbour got 3 phase already, my house is 3 phase ready but electical wiring contractor cabut already, to complete the 3 phase wiring what to do and estimate how much ah?
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neighbour got 3-phase will affect my house?
phoenix69
post Jan 14 2013, 09:07 AM

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QUOTE(~Curious~ @ Jan 13 2013, 11:12 PM)
neighbour got 3-phase will affect my house?
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I heard that it will be cheaper for you to upgrade to 3 phase if neighbour got 3 phase already as less work for TNB.
weikee
post Jan 14 2013, 09:26 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jan 14 2013, 09:07 AM)
I heard that it will be cheaper for you to upgrade to 3 phase if neighbour got 3 phase already as less work for TNB.
*
No such things. You think Fiber internet point? when they lay it will have many cores inside that can be use by many tenant.

If you tap from the existing 4 black cables, maybe cheaper compare to having a meter at the gate pillar side. But this depend on the existing cables load. TNB may not allow you to do that if the load already heavy and you have to tap from the pole. Tapping from the pole will be much higher.
ozak
post Jan 14 2013, 09:32 AM

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QUOTE(~Curious~ @ Jan 13 2013, 11:12 PM)
neighbour got 3-phase will affect my house?
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Why? your house light flickling?

No such thing as effect your house electricity.
~Curious~
post Jan 14 2013, 11:56 AM

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ozak,no ar gonna reno house soon so i tot wanna save money n upgrade if needed smile.gif since need to do rewiring anyhow.
ozak
post Jan 14 2013, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(~Curious~ @ Jan 14 2013, 11:56 AM)
ozak,no ar gonna reno house soon so i tot wanna save money n upgrade if needed smile.gif since need to do rewiring anyhow.
*
Ada budget, than go for it. If you don't think going to use that much electric (have a saving mindset), than 1phase is enough.

Use that extra money to extend your house another yard. biggrin.gif
~Curious~
post Jan 14 2013, 01:41 PM

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if hse haf 1 freezer n 1 fridge ok rite if 1 phase...
adi planned to do extension coz ori hhse design waste alot of land area =(
weikee
post Jan 14 2013, 01:51 PM

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QUOTE(~Curious~ @ Jan 14 2013, 01:41 PM)
if hse haf 1 freezer n 1 fridge ok rite if 1 phase...
adi planned to do extension coz ori hhse design waste alot of land area =(
*
Check the freezer and fridge capacity / load first. If freezer are 3hp, fridge are 3hp, with some a/c and water heater sure above 10kw.

But if only small, is not much to worry. My mom house one freezer, one fridge, and 3 a/c, and 2 water heater. Been living on single phase for many years.
sovietmah
post Jan 14 2013, 01:56 PM

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recently i heard TNB giving free installation on 3-phase, is that true?
http://www.sinarharian.com.my/nasional/tnb...16-jan-1.119588

ozak
post Jan 14 2013, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(~Curious~ @ Jan 14 2013, 01:41 PM)
if hse haf 1 freezer n 1 fridge ok rite if 1 phase...
adi planned to do extension coz ori hhse design waste alot of land area =(
*
Freezer dont't consume alot. Saver than fridge. Not a problem with 1 phase.
ozak
post Jan 14 2013, 02:13 PM

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QUOTE(sovietmah @ Jan 14 2013, 01:56 PM)
recently i heard TNB giving free installation on 3-phase, is that true?
http://www.sinarharian.com.my/nasional/tnb...16-jan-1.119588
*
A lot of hidden cost. Maybe free at installation. But will charge you application fee lah, meter cost lah, parts cost lah. Macam macam fees. sad.gif
sovietmah
post Jan 14 2013, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jan 14 2013, 02:13 PM)
A lot of hidden cost. Maybe free at installation. But will charge you application fee lah, meter cost lah, parts cost lah. Macam macam fees. sad.gif
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True, that's the thg i suspect.
phoenix69
post Jan 14 2013, 05:50 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jan 14 2013, 02:13 PM)
A lot of hidden cost. Maybe free at installation. But will charge you application fee lah, meter cost lah, parts cost lah. Macam macam fees. sad.gif
*
Wil the cost end up the same as regular times or will there still be savings.?



sovietmah
post Jan 15 2013, 10:25 AM

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http://www.tnb.com.my/announcement/2013/01...-pelanggan.html

Anyone installed 3-phases before? you guys know total charges for the connection fees?
ozak
post Jan 15 2013, 10:44 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jan 14 2013, 05:50 PM)
Wil the cost end up the same as regular times or will there still be savings.?
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Probably lower. Go and register lah. See what is the cost. If cost really low, than sambung lor. No harm.
tiensong
post Jan 16 2013, 09:36 AM

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May i know what is the meaning of "Installation charges as low as RM10.00 for public street lighting sponsored by individual"

Apply for street light for only rm10??
weikee
post Jan 16 2013, 09:39 AM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Jan 16 2013, 09:36 AM)
May i know what is the meaning of "Installation charges as low as RM10.00 for public street  lighting sponsored by individual"

Apply for street light for only rm10??
*
You can have individual street light, paid by private (include house owner). So just pay them RM 10 for installation. But monthly bill the applicant will have to pay.
tiensong
post Jan 16 2013, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 16 2013, 09:39 AM)
You can have individual street light, paid by private (include house owner). So just pay them RM 10 for installation. But monthly bill the applicant will have to pay.
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Do you know roughly how much bill per month for street light if turn on from 6.30 pm to 7.00 am the next morning?
weikee
post Jan 16 2013, 10:45 AM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Jan 16 2013, 10:39 AM)
Do you know roughly how much bill per month for street light if turn on from 6.30 pm to 7.00 am the next morning?
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Don't know actual rate. But using common rate, say 12 hours per day for 30 days, with 500watt bulb (this one not sure), and 40 cents per KWh = ~ RM 72.00
tiensong
post Jan 16 2013, 10:46 AM

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from tnb website:

"For customers who wish to apply for street lighting under their own name, a connection charge will be imposed. A monthly charge of RM10.00 will also be included in the customer’s account. Customer may go to the nearest Pusat Khidmat Pelanggan for more information on the connection charges."

So we don't need to pay electric usage? just pay rm10 every month?
weikee
post Jan 16 2013, 11:31 AM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Jan 16 2013, 10:46 AM)
from tnb website:

"For customers who wish to apply for street lighting under their own name, a connection charge will be imposed.  A monthly charge of RM10.00 will also be included in the customer’s account. Customer may go to the nearest Pusat Khidmat Pelanggan for more information on the connection charges."

So we don't need to pay electric usage? just pay rm10 every month?
*
My understanding, is like TM, try have monthly rental. Usage frfeesees still apply.

Want to apply, just go and ask them for detail.
tiensong
post Jan 16 2013, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 16 2013, 11:31 AM)
My understanding,  is like TM,  try have monthly rental.  Usage frfeesees still apply. 

Want to apply, just go and ask them for detail.
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If only rm10 per month without electric charges, I would happy to apply for it to brighten up the street a bit.....

anyway thanks...I will call them to ask for detail....
madcow1
post Jan 17 2013, 10:36 AM

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Anyone can help with electrical wiring ?

My condo living room ceiling light go off and I decided to change the whole thing. After I dismantle the old one, the whole batch of the light (including fan and other room lights) cannot be turn on now.

The wiring from the ceiling light got only 2 cable connecting to a plastic connector but the ceiling got 4 wiring, 2 others in green and black which I never touch when dismantle the old ceiling light. Can I just leave it there or could these 2 wires came out from somewer ?

Any idea what went wrong ? Thank in advance all sifus here.

Sorry, no pictures b'cos it is kinda dark and I go to work before the sun rise and reach home after sunset.

This post has been edited by madcow1: Jan 17 2013, 10:37 AM
ozak
post Jan 17 2013, 04:54 PM

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QUOTE(madcow1 @ Jan 17 2013, 10:36 AM)
Anyone can help with electrical wiring ?

My condo living room ceiling light go off and I decided to change the whole thing. After I dismantle the old one, the whole batch of the light (including fan and other room lights) cannot be turn on now.

The wiring from the ceiling light got only 2 cable connecting to a plastic connector but the ceiling got 4 wiring, 2 others in green and black which I never touch when dismantle the old ceiling light. Can I just leave it there or could these 2 wires came out from somewer ?

Any idea what went wrong ? Thank in advance all sifus here.

Sorry, no pictures b'cos it is kinda dark and I go to work before the sun rise and reach home after sunset.
*
You have to take picture for easy understand. Give you wrong infor will shortcircuit your whole house electric.

Best is ask electrician have a look.
madcow1
post Jan 17 2013, 05:02 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jan 17 2013, 04:54 PM)
You have to take picture for easy understand. Give you wrong infor will shortcircuit your whole house electric.

Best is ask electrician have a look.
*
Ask Electrian to do 2 ceiling light will cost how much roughly? Will try to take picture later tonite.


ozak
post Jan 17 2013, 05:58 PM

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QUOTE(madcow1 @ Jan 17 2013, 05:02 PM)
Ask Electrian to do 2 ceiling light will cost how much roughly? Will try to take picture later tonite.
*
Not sure. All the while, I DIY only.

Try search around here. Some body got post before the rate.
madcow1
post Jan 17 2013, 11:32 PM

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This is the wiring problem I have now > http://postimage.org/image/4nbkuaojf/

Any sifu can help ?

The blue & black attached to the plastic connector and connected to both white wires for the old lights. So why now cannot turn on the power again ? Anything need to be done with the idle green wire and black copper wire?

Any if my new ceiling lights have this wiring, http://postimage.org/image/hjx3aakyf/72614645/ can I just simply plug to any of the blue & black wires attached to the plastic connector ?

Thank in advance for the help.

This post has been edited by madcow1: Jan 17 2013, 11:33 PM
skng03
post Jan 18 2013, 12:40 AM

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Use connector to joint the black wire (neutral ) and green wire(earth), the other lights / fans not working because all these points r in same circuit, these 2 wire loop and link to each other
madcow1
post Jan 18 2013, 09:07 AM

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QUOTE(skng03 @ Jan 18 2013, 12:40 AM)
Use connector to joint the black wire (neutral ) and green wire(earth), the other lights / fans not working because all these points r in same circuit, these 2 wire loop and link to each other
*
Hi Sifu, thanks but I am noob in this, do you mean connecting the black copper wire with the green one ? There is 2 black wires there, one is fine wire and another one is copper type.
weikee
post Jan 18 2013, 09:08 AM

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QUOTE(madcow1 @ Jan 18 2013, 09:07 AM)
Hi Sifu, thanks but I am noob in this, do you mean connecting the black copper wire with the green one ? There is 2 black wires there, one is fine wire and another one is copper type.
*
These is like asking a normal person do surgery. Very scary.

Please don't short the green with black. Your ELCB will trip.

Green with green
Black with black.
madcow1
post Jan 18 2013, 09:14 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 18 2013, 09:08 AM)
These is like asking a normal person do surgery. Very scary.

Please don't short the green with black. Your ELCB will trip.

Green with green
Black with black.
*
Serious ? Cannot learn how to DIY now and must get help from electrician ?
weikee
post Jan 18 2013, 09:29 AM

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QUOTE(madcow1 @ Jan 18 2013, 09:14 AM)
Serious ? Cannot learn how to DIY now and must get help from electrician ?
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Light and fan usually are looping, taking out the wires mean you have break the loop. Reconnect the loop.

Black to black
green to green


madcow1
post Jan 18 2013, 09:50 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 18 2013, 09:29 AM)
Light and fan usually are looping, taking out the wires mean you have break the loop. Reconnect the loop.

Black to black
green to green
*
Thank Master Wei Kee for the info.

Actually I did not touch the other 2 wires not connected to the plastic connector, meaning there is no connector for the green & black copper.

You can see here both the green wires is connected > http://postimage.org/image/3s791gqzv/.

So where I need to connect the black copper wire ?


magika
post Jan 18 2013, 01:50 PM

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QUOTE(madcow1 @ Jan 18 2013, 09:50 AM)
Thank Master Wei Kee for the info.

Actually I did not touch the other 2 wires not connected to the plastic connector, meaning there is no connector for the green & black copper.

You can see here both the green wires is connected > http://postimage.org/image/3s791gqzv/.

So where I need to connect the black copper wire ?
*
Pair the black wire together but first remember to off the main switch at DB or risk being electrocuted.
Green wire just attached to any bare metal at equipment.

The existing connection is correct except both black wire must be added together..


This post has been edited by magika: Jan 18 2013, 01:57 PM
madcow1
post Jan 18 2013, 02:00 PM

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QUOTE(magika @ Jan 18 2013, 01:50 PM)
Pair the black wire together but first remember to off the main switch at DB or risk being electrocuted.
Green wire just attached to any bare metal at equipment.

The existing connection is correct except both black wire must be added together..
*
Thank for the guide.

If I dun wan to install the light now, can I just pair the black copper wire with the black wires together and leave the green one as it is so the others light and fan can run again ?
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post Jan 18 2013, 02:03 PM

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QUOTE(madcow1 @ Jan 18 2013, 02:00 PM)
Thank for the guide.

If I dun wan to install the light now, can I just pair the black copper wire with the black wires together and leave the green one as it is so the others light and fan can run again ?
*
Can, it seems you understand the concept.


madcow1
post Jan 18 2013, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(magika @ Jan 18 2013, 02:03 PM)
Can, it seems you understand the concept.
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Yes, thank to all the master here.
ozak
post Jan 18 2013, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(madcow1 @ Jan 18 2013, 02:00 PM)
Thank for the guide.

If I dun wan to install the light now, can I just pair the black copper wire with the black wires together and leave the green one as it is so the others light and fan can run again ?
*
Do not leave any bare copper wire outside. Tape the expose copper wire. Or put inside the connector and screw it securely.

Expose wire can cause shortcircuit, fire and dangerous to life.
madcow1
post Jan 18 2013, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jan 18 2013, 02:25 PM)
Do not leave any bare copper wire outside. Tape the expose copper wire. Or put inside the connector and screw it securely.

Expose wire can cause shortcircuit, fire and dangerous to life.
*
Thank for the guide, will buy some connector to fix it.
magika
post Jan 18 2013, 11:17 PM

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QUOTE(madcow1 @ Jan 18 2013, 04:11 PM)
Thank for the guide, will buy some connector to fix it.
*
Green wire exposed nevermind as its earth wire.

Just to be back to the topic, in an ideal situation three phase wiring neutral current will be 0 amps if all the phase are balance. However it is difficult to achieve that so in an unbalanced usage the neutral current will be be equal the most at single phase equivalent. Thats why only one neutral wire. Whereas single phase neutral current will be equal to total current comsumption.

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post Jan 18 2013, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 16 2013, 10:45 AM)
Don't know actual rate. But using common rate, say 12 hours per day for 30 days, with 500watt bulb (this one not sure), and 40 cents per KWh = ~ RM 72.00
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TNB is using between 100 to 150 watt bulb. RM10 is all you have to pay every month.

RickOoi
post Mar 17 2013, 06:49 PM

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All Sifus icon_question.gif

I am planning to change to 3-phase for my 10-year plus house. It will be underground connection from TNB pole (very near - please refer photo) to meter panel at gate pillar, to DB box inside.

I obtained a quote from one of TNB approved contractor, exact words as follows:
1) TNB meter deposit - paid by owner RM2,000
2) TNB contribution - RM1,700
3) TNB form - RM800
4) TNB meter board and 3 nos fuse, 1 no. neutral and run cable 16mm - 20 meter DB to TNB meter board - RM2,500
5) Workmanship - RM800
Total RM7,800

My questions are:
1) Is this a reasonable quote?

2) RM2,000 for deposit? I know 3-phase deposit is RM800...then what is RM1,200? Googled and found "TNB 3-phase underground cable service fee is RM1,200". Asked the contractor, he said, "Is refundable", didn't explain further. shakehead.gif

3) What is "TNB contribution"? Googled, found this --> http://www.malaysiakini.com/letters/44874 shocking.gif

4) I asked the contractor what is "TNB form"? He said, 'Is licence"? rclxub.gif

Please help to advice. Thank you.


phoenix69
post Mar 18 2013, 11:17 AM

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This is my 3 phase upgrade experience.

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1918768/+1240

Overall cost is not as high as I thought it would be.
You guys can refer here in as a standard for comparison if you think that you are being overcharged.
~Curious~
post Oct 24 2013, 11:53 PM

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phoenix69 u paid RM1k for 3-phase conversion,wahlau someone told me it will cost RM10k+ and mmust wait indefinitely for TNB approval.so any review on using 3-phase (especially monthly electricity bill)?
btw all sifus here,what are the things i need to check if i wanna switch to 3-phase now?
Aslan.Elyse
post Oct 25 2013, 01:36 AM

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QUOTE(nj922 @ May 8 2008, 09:48 AM)
Hi,

Anyone can advice me on what is 3-phase wiring and what should I do to apply the 3-phase wiring? how much is the cost?

thanks in advance.
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Call my electrician Mr Steven Chong 012-3377299. He is
reasonable and capable.
ryan3721
post Nov 11 2013, 01:57 AM

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Attached Image

Hi i am new in this wiring thing. May I know if the above pic the wiring is single phase or 3 phase? Thank you.
l3iTi
post Nov 11 2013, 09:58 AM

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QUOTE(ryan3721 @ Nov 11 2013, 01:57 AM)
Attached Image

Hi i am new in this wiring thing. May I know if the above pic the wiring is single phase or 3 phase?  Thank you.
*
Not sure on this, but I guess it's Single Phase.
Cos mine is 3 Phase, I have 3 black box thingy, instead of 1
ozak
post Nov 11 2013, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(ryan3721 @ Nov 11 2013, 01:57 AM)
Attached Image

Hi i am new in this wiring thing. May I know if the above pic the wiring is single phase or 3 phase?  Thank you.
*
Single phase
enriquelee
post Nov 11 2013, 09:07 PM

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QUOTE(l3iTi @ Nov 11 2013, 09:58 AM)
Not sure on this, but I guess it's Single Phase.
Cos mine is 3 Phase, I have 3 black box thingy, instead of 1
*
You are right, 3 phase will have 3 cut off fuse (Black box thingy), while single phase has only 1.
Lerner
post Nov 21 2013, 06:33 PM

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My Wireman mentioned i will be charged higher in the TnB bills if i convert it from single phase to three phase, despite the usage (Kwh) is same.

I wondering whether is it true? as my house title is "Residential" and i check with TnB Traffic Online, it only have one traffic table for residential houses. Therefore i presume the TnB bill will be remain the same after i convert it to 3Phase.

anyone have the before and after experience regarding this?

Thanks.
aquaria87
post Nov 21 2013, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(Lerner @ Nov 21 2013, 06:33 PM)
My Wireman mentioned i will be charged higher in the TnB bills if i convert it from single phase to three phase, despite the usage (Kwh) is same.

I wondering whether is it true? as my house title is "Residential" and i check with TnB Traffic Online, it only have one traffic table for residential houses. Therefore i presume the TnB bill will be remain the same after i convert it to 3Phase.

anyone have the before and after experience regarding this?

Thanks.
*
Ur wiremen are bluffing bro.. Whether u use single or 3 phase, ur charges based on ur kwh. if use more, u pay more. Unless u are under commercial tariff. As long as u under residential tariff, no change in tarif. Trust me as i am TNB staff smile.gif
ryan3721
post Nov 21 2013, 11:08 PM

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QUOTE(aquaria87 @ Nov 21 2013, 08:29 PM)
Ur wiremen are bluffing bro.. Whether u use single or 3 phase, ur charges based on ur kwh. if use more, u pay more. Unless u are under commercial tariff. As long as u under residential tariff, no change in tarif. Trust me as i am TNB staff smile.gif
*
hi, like in my case Attached Image the new house comes with single phase, how do i know if can change to 3 phase or not? Just walk in to nearest TNB office? Tq
weikee
post Nov 21 2013, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(ryan3721 @ Nov 21 2013, 11:08 PM)
hi, like in my case Attached Image the new house comes with single phase, how do i know if can change to 3 phase or not? Just walk in to nearest TNB office? Tq
*
Change outside, internal house wiring never change is useless. Waste of deposit and labor fees.
Lerner
post Nov 22 2013, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(aquaria87 @ Nov 21 2013, 08:29 PM)
Ur wiremen are bluffing bro.. Whether u use single or 3 phase, ur charges based on ur kwh. if use more, u pay more. Unless u are under commercial tariff. As long as u under residential tariff, no change in tarif. Trust me as i am TNB staff smile.gif
*
Noted. Thanks. I am going for 3Phase then. Easier and feel Safer on the overloading. blush.gif
Banting Area, Still having 3Phase Promotion? will go over and apply by year end.

icon_rolleyes.gif
weikee
post Nov 22 2013, 08:53 AM

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QUOTE(Lerner @ Nov 22 2013, 12:47 AM)
Noted. Thanks. I am going for 3Phase then. Easier and feel Safer on the overloading.  blush.gif
Banting Area, Still having 3Phase Promotion? will go over and apply by year end.

icon_rolleyes.gif
*
If you are doing house renovation, and do recabling yes it can evenly distribute the load by experience contractor. But if just change the incoming to 3phase, it does not gurantee you are not overloading, the internal cabling need to be redirect to different phase. To be exact is Red Yellow Blue supply.
enriquelee
post Nov 22 2013, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(Lerner @ Nov 22 2013, 12:47 AM)
Noted. Thanks. I am going for 3Phase then. Easier and feel Safer on the overloading.  blush.gif
Banting Area, Still having 3Phase Promotion? will go over and apply by year end.

icon_rolleyes.gif
*
Try to figure out you really need 3 phase or not. Then only make decision to upgrade. The upgrading works is not straight forward and kind of complicated.
Lerner
post May 5 2014, 04:04 PM

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Upgraded, it just a simple process as drop by kedai TnB to obtain the list of contractor, then pay the services, then come and install the new meter in 2 weeks.

as residential, Imbalance Power Factor Ratio is no applicable to Residential Account Right?
SUSsupersound
post May 5 2014, 11:56 PM

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QUOTE(Lerner @ May 5 2014, 04:04 PM)
Upgraded, it just a simple process as drop by kedai TnB to obtain the list of contractor, then pay the services, then come and install the new meter in 2 weeks.

as residential, Imbalance Power Factor Ratio is no applicable to Residential Account Right?
*
Nope, it does not.
3 phase the only advantage is you can run the whole house with air conds. Single phase are limited to 2-3 max.
Also for load balancing, make sure the wiring work done properly, else if still 1 phase only working, it defeat your goal.
klnaj
post May 6 2014, 12:29 PM

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Hi guys, i have bought an old house and think of changing the single phase to 3 phase. I wonder do i need to re-wiring my whole house cables or basically changing the fuse box outside my house will do?
weikee
post May 6 2014, 12:47 PM

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QUOTE(klnaj @ May 6 2014, 12:29 PM)
Hi guys, i have bought an old house and think of changing the single phase to 3 phase. I wonder do i need to re-wiring my whole house cables or basically changing the fuse box outside my house will do?
*
The purpose of 3phase is to able run more high current equipments concurrent and even load distribution. What is the point to have 3 phases and your internal not properly distributed? If you only have total of 10mcbs don't waste your money. Unless all your mcb are to power water heater/ac
Noobl3t
post May 6 2014, 02:03 PM

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QUOTE(klnaj @ May 6 2014, 12:29 PM)
Hi guys, i have bought an old house and think of changing the single phase to 3 phase. I wonder do i need to re-wiring my whole house cables or basically changing the fuse box outside my house will do?
*
1) Upgrade of the fuse from single to three phase, you will have to be through tnb or ask electric contractor to help.
2) you have to change the distribution board mcb to 3 phase incoming and the bus bar to 3 phase.
3) no, you do not need to rewire the whole house.

Forgot, to say elcb have to be three phase for incoming. Specifications must comply to local authority.

This post has been edited by Noobl3t: May 6 2014, 04:59 PM
weikee
post May 6 2014, 04:12 PM

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QUOTE(Noobl3t @ May 6 2014, 02:03 PM)
1) Upgrade of the fuse from single to three phase, you will have to be through tnb or ask electric contractor to help.
2) you have to change the distribution board mcb to 3 phase incoming and the bus bar to 3 phase.
3) no, you do not need to require the while house.

Forgot, to say elcb have to be three phase for incoming. Specifications must comply to local authority.
*
And the purpose of all these without increase number of mcb and power points? unless your house already have 20 - 30 mcbs if not serve no purpose for changing 3phase.
the s.crib
post May 6 2014, 04:58 PM

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Hi hi,

Just a question on 3 phase. Can a house have 2 3 phase meter? I have an issue with load due to the high electrical usage and was told that 1 3 phase meter is not enough. Just wondering what can I do about it? Adding more DB boxes as opposed to having 2 3 phase meters?

Thanks
Noobl3t
post May 6 2014, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ May 6 2014, 04:12 PM)
And the purpose of all these without increase number of mcb and power points? unless your house already have 20 - 30 mcbs if not serve no purpose for changing 3phase.
*
I answered based in his question. It's is dependent to his load usage. U can have 30 mcb, but u can still run it on single phase, dependent to load, e.g all lights.
Noobl3t
post May 6 2014, 05:08 PM

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QUOTE(the s.crib @ May 6 2014, 04:58 PM)
Hi hi,

Just a question on 3 phase. Can a house have 2 3 phase meter? I have an issue with load due to the high electrical usage and was told that 1 3 phase meter is not enough. Just wondering what can I do about it? Adding more DB boxes as opposed to having 2 3 phase meters?

Thanks
*
If house try to arrange, big load mcb evenly on the phases

This post has been edited by Noobl3t: May 6 2014, 05:14 PM
cfa28
post May 6 2014, 05:11 PM

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QUOTE(Lerner @ May 5 2014, 04:04 PM)
Upgraded, it just a simple process as drop by kedai TnB to obtain the list of contractor, then pay the services, then come and install the new meter in 2 weeks.

as residential, Imbalance Power Factor Ratio is no applicable to Residential Account Right?
*
Mind sharing the total cost incurred including breakdown for benefit of other members? TQVM
SUSsupersound
post May 6 2014, 05:33 PM

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QUOTE(the s.crib @ May 6 2014, 04:58 PM)
Hi hi,

Just a question on 3 phase. Can a house have 2 3 phase meter? I have an issue with load due to the high electrical usage and was told that 1 3 phase meter is not enough. Just wondering what can I do about it? Adding more DB boxes as opposed to having 2 3 phase meters?

Thanks
*
Nope, if the 3 phase wiring are done properly, you should not have much problem with it.
Only you have to worry if there's only 1 single phase run all the air conds, sure it will be high load on that particular phase doh.gif
Usually you will have such problem when the wireman wants to make fast money whistling.gif
weikee
post May 6 2014, 05:58 PM

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QUOTE(Noobl3t @ May 6 2014, 05:07 PM)
I answered based in his question. It's is dependent to his load usage. U can have 30 mcb, but u can still run it on single phase, dependent to load, e.g all lights.
*
And served no purpose just replacing incoming from single to 3phass without knowing the load and evenly distribution of the incoming.except giving more deposite for tnb to keep and installation fees.
weikee
post May 6 2014, 06:04 PM

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QUOTE(the s.crib @ May 6 2014, 04:58 PM)
Hi hi,

Just a question on 3 phase. Can a house have 2 3 phase meter? I have an issue with load due to the high electrical usage and was told that 1 3 phase meter is not enough. Just wondering what can I do about it? Adding more DB boxes as opposed to having 2 3 phase meters?

Thanks
*
You running hotels? Big bungalow one meter enough. Say one phase you use 40amps you use all 3 phases is 120amps that is 27+kwatt. Not enough? You can max it to 60amps per phase.

Additional meter may only allow if it is commercial rate, I ask before when the contractor came change my analog meter, because 1-300kwh are subsidized and if you have more meter you are enjoying from 1-600kwh. Tnb and gov not stupid.
Noobl3t
post May 6 2014, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ May 6 2014, 05:58 PM)
And served no purpose just replacing incoming from single to 3phass without knowing the load and evenly distribution of the incoming.except giving more deposite for tnb to keep and installation fees.
*
Maybe he is going to add multiple ac to his house? I don't know.

He asked whether he can change to 3 phase without rewiring, I answered accordingly. The answer is no, u don't have to, just be aware your incoming mcb, elcb and bus bar which require to be changed.
Lerner
post May 6 2014, 06:38 PM

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QUOTE(cfa28 @ May 6 2014, 05:11 PM)
Mind sharing the total cost incurred including breakdown for benefit of other members?  TQVM
*
Total RM800 only, including constructor fee RM300 and TnB Application + Deposit Topup.
The rest will be your own internal cabling. This is is depend on your house electrical design already.
desmond5529
post Jun 26 2014, 02:16 PM

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As I understand, our 3-phase voltage is 415v and single-phase voltage is 240v. Will there be any issue using single phase 240v appliances under 415v 3-phase? I have an electric motor rated at 380v, can I use it under 415v?
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post Jun 26 2014, 02:19 PM

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QUOTE(nj922 @ May 8 2008, 01:41 PM)
Hi dEviLs ,

How much do you need to pay for the 3-phase application?
*
I know the deposit is higher and the meter is more expensive but it is only 1 time payment.

I think for household 1 phase go up to 63Amp
weikee
post Jun 26 2014, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(desmond5529 @ Jun 26 2014, 02:16 PM)
As I understand, our 3-phase voltage is 415v and single-phase voltage is 240v.  Will there be any issue using single phase 240v appliances under 415v 3-phase?  I have an electric motor rated at 380v, can I use it under 415v?
*
3 Phase wiring, does not mean you have to use 415v, Each phase is still 230. Unless you use all the 3 phase in the same equipment you equipment need to be build to support 3 phase and voltage of 400v.


ozak
post Jun 26 2014, 10:26 PM

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QUOTE(desmond5529 @ Jun 26 2014, 02:16 PM)
As I understand, our 3-phase voltage is 415v and single-phase voltage is 240v.  Will there be any issue using single phase 240v appliances under 415v 3-phase?  I have an electric motor rated at 380v, can I use it under 415v?
*
In tnb supply, 240v is come from 415v.

You can't use 380v rate motor on 415v supply. Risk of burn the stator coil.
weikee
post Jun 26 2014, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 26 2014, 10:26 PM)
In tnb supply, 240v is come from 415v.

You can't use 380v rate motor on 415v supply. Risk of burn the stator coil.
*
Now TNB is 230 / 400 It was made public many years back. Therefore our current will be higher. If not mistaken it allow variance of -6% - +10% The change is to inline with the international std.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jun 26 2014, 11:57 PM
bengang13
post Aug 12 2014, 07:17 PM

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hi anyone can recommend me contractor that does 3-phase tnb applications? much appreciated.
S'aimer
post Aug 12 2014, 09:19 PM

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Hm let's say.

If I plan to install another 2 aircons in the house at a later time which will make it a total of 3 in the house. I would have to change to 3 phase?

But as far as I can see, a single bungalow has no problem running all 3 aircons on a single phase.
SUSsupersound
post Aug 12 2014, 09:27 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 12 2014, 09:19 PM)
Hm let's say.

If I plan to install another 2 aircons in the house at a later time which will make it a total of 3 in the house. I would have to change to 3 phase?

But as far as I can see, a single bungalow has no problem running all 3 aircons on a single phase.
*
If the main fuse are 60A or higher rating, for sure single phase also enough.
But once your house caught fire, insurance won't pay you.
S'aimer
post Aug 12 2014, 09:34 PM

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Hmm how to tell if my main fuse is of higher rating?

Because the electrician change the old single row DB to a three row DB?

Do I need to take picture of it?

QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 12 2014, 10:27 PM)
If the main fuse are 60A or higher rating, for sure single phase also enough.
But once your house caught fire, insurance won't pay you.
*
This post has been edited by S'aimer: Aug 12 2014, 09:34 PM
SUSsupersound
post Aug 12 2014, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 12 2014, 09:34 PM)
Hmm how to tell if my main fuse is of higher rating?

Because the electrician change the old single row DB to a three row DB?

Do I need to take picture of it?
*
The fuse does have a rating, just have a check on it.
Even if the main fuse is rated high, does not means the wire rated to it. So you still need to lay new wire and their own 13A fuse for air conds.
S'aimer
post Aug 12 2014, 09:56 PM

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Problem is. The electrical work has been done already

Saw a new thick bunch of wires dangling at the storeroom side where the Main DB is before the electrical works were completed.

Comes in red, yellow, black and green? The aircon switches are all 15A and the electrician added 3 new aircon points too

QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 12 2014, 10:45 PM)
The fuse does have a rating, just have a check on it.
Even if the main fuse is rated high, does not means the wire rated to it. So you still need to lay new wire and their own 13A fuse for air conds.
*
SUSsupersound
post Aug 12 2014, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 12 2014, 09:56 PM)
Problem is. The electrical work has been done already

Saw a new thick bunch of wires dangling at the storeroom side where the Main DB is before the electrical works were completed.

Comes in red, yellow, black and green? The aircon switches are all 15A and the electrician added 3 new aircon points too
*
Then should be good already.
ozak
post Aug 12 2014, 10:07 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 12 2014, 09:19 PM)
Hm let's say.

If I plan to install another 2 aircons in the house at a later time which will make it a total of 3 in the house. I would have to change to 3 phase?

But as far as I can see, a single bungalow has no problem running all 3 aircons on a single phase.
*
No problem with single phase. Given you have 2hp of 3 aircon and 2hp fridge running together, it draw 6kw.

You can run anything together total not more than 12kw.
weikee
post Aug 12 2014, 10:19 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 12 2014, 09:27 PM)
If the main fuse are 60A or higher rating, for sure single phase also enough.
But once your house caught fire, insurance won't pay you.
*
I don't see any reason why insurance won't pay if it run within the limit, and with proper wiring. Unless House owner using wrong wire sizing maybe. A single phase max fuse is 63amps with the correct wire sizing. If you have come across such information from Insurance do share with us.
S'aimer
post Aug 12 2014, 10:24 PM

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Thank you bro supersound and bro ozak.

Was looking through my reno photos and realize I didn't take pics of the wires at storeroom! sweat.gif

Cross my fingers everything is good.
SUSsupersound
post Aug 13 2014, 01:43 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 12 2014, 10:19 PM)
I don't see any reason why insurance won't pay if it run within the limit, and with proper wiring. Unless House owner using wrong wire sizing maybe.  A single phase max fuse is 63amps with the correct wire sizing.  If you have come across such information from Insurance do share with us.
*
Is on the TNB application form on the requirement.
And insurance company will use this form and fire department's report to decide pay or not pay in case of fire.
Also, I do know that with single phase I can run 5-6 air conds without problem but when something happens I don't want insurance company have an excuse to deny a claim.

This post has been edited by supersound: Aug 13 2014, 02:27 AM
weikee
post Aug 13 2014, 08:27 AM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 13 2014, 01:43 AM)
Is on the TNB application form on the requirement.
And insurance company will use this form and fire department's report to decide pay or not pay in case of fire.
Also, I do know that with single phase I can run 5-6 air conds without problem but when something happens I don't want insurance company have an excuse to deny a claim.
*
Please tell me which line state not support of 3rd ac?

http://www.tnb.com.my/application/uploads/...cation_Form.pdf


I have also consult General insurance agent, nothing to do with AC quantity installed.
SUSsupersound
post Aug 13 2014, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 13 2014, 08:27 AM)
Please tell me which line state not support of 3rd ac?

http://www.tnb.com.my/application/uploads/...cation_Form.pdf
I have also consult General insurance agent, nothing to do with AC quantity installed.
*
http://www.tnb.com.my/residential/manage-y...upply-type.html
You can always ignore this and your agent never tells you the truth.
Again nothing happens everybody happy, something happens you enjoy it.
cherroy
post Aug 13 2014, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 13 2014, 01:43 AM)
Is on the TNB application form on the requirement.
And insurance company will use this form and fire department's report to decide pay or not pay in case of fire.
Also, I do know that with single phase I can run 5-6 air conds without problem but when something happens I don't want insurance company have an excuse to deny a claim.
*
1HP = 0.75KW

750/240 = 3~4A,

Safety margin let say 25%, make it 5A per air cond

5 x 6 = 30A.

Still within the capability of a single phase that is 50A.

You cannot overload the single phase, but there is no rule said single phase house being equiped with 6 air-cond then may void the fire insurance coverage.


weikee
post Aug 13 2014, 10:10 AM

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QUOTE(cherroy @ Aug 13 2014, 09:57 AM)
1HP = 0.75KW

750/240 = 3~4A, 

Safety margin let say 25%, make it 5A per air cond

5 x 6 = 30A.

Still within the capability of a single phase that is 50A.

You cannot overload the single phase, but there is no rule said single phase house being equiped with 6 air-cond then may void the fire insurance coverage.
*
Single Phase are allow to go up to 63Amps, giving 25% safety margin is 47.25 Amps, and using 230v, is 10867 Watt. it can drive 10 HP in total.

Is still more than 3AC

The 50Amps is after the safety margin of 63Amps

This post has been edited by weikee: Aug 13 2014, 10:11 AM
SUSsupersound
post Aug 13 2014, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(cherroy @ Aug 13 2014, 09:57 AM)
1HP = 0.75KW

750/240 = 3~4A, 

Safety margin let say 25%, make it 5A per air cond

5 x 6 = 30A.

Still within the capability of a single phase that is 50A.

You cannot overload the single phase, but there is no rule said single phase house being equiped with 6 air-cond then may void the fire insurance coverage.
*
You are right, but again TNB already stated the guideline we "should" upgrade to 3 phase once we exceeding 3 air conds.
Your calculation are assuming that it is good quality of copper wire being used. It not even taking in to account of the qaulity, length and efficiency of the wire. Where's the heat generated calculation?
In some sense indeed we can't overload a single phase, but we can overload the wire which later overload the main fuse.
For sure insurance company never stated the rule on this as they release the claim's payment based on official report by government. Have you ever claim insurance before? The company need 1 single word only to deny a claim.
cherroy
post Aug 13 2014, 11:47 AM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 13 2014, 11:43 AM)
You are right, but again TNB already stated the guideline we "should" upgrade to 3 phase once we exceeding 3 air conds.
Your calculation are assuming that it is good quality of copper wire being used. It not even taking in to account of the qaulity, length and efficiency of the wire. Where's the heat generated calculation?
In some sense indeed we can't overload a single phase, but we can overload the wire which later overload the main fuse.
For sure insurance company never stated the rule on this as they release the claim's payment based on official report by government. Have you ever claim insurance before? The company need 1 single word only to deny a claim.
*
I would like to see the guidelines/rules state in this. smile.gif
Ty.
SUSsupersound
post Aug 13 2014, 11:50 AM

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QUOTE(cherroy @ Aug 13 2014, 11:47 AM)
I would like to see the guidelines/rules state in this.  smile.gif
Ty.
*
I forgot where I posted that guideline, maybe a find using the search function will help you to get the answer fast. I just posted it recently.
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post Aug 16 2014, 12:34 PM

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Took a look at my DB and It appears that I have 63A for my main fuse.

But realised that I don't see any fiber ready connection in storeroom or a telephone port at the back?


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weikee
post Aug 16 2014, 12:53 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 16 2014, 12:34 PM)
Took a look at my DB and It appears that I have 63A for my main fuse.

But realised that I don't see any fiber ready connection in storeroom or a telephone port at the back?
*
What is fiber/tel line got to do with electrical?
S'aimer
post Aug 16 2014, 02:07 PM

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Has nothing to do with electrical but seeing that the fiber point is supposed to be put in the storeroom with the DB, I reckon I will have to install the fiber point.

QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 16 2014, 01:53 PM)
What is fiber/tel line got to do with electrical?
*
weikee
post Aug 16 2014, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 16 2014, 02:07 PM)
Has nothing to do with electrical but seeing that the fiber point is supposed to be put in the storeroom with the DB, I reckon I will have to install the fiber point.
*
Depend where you want your equipment at. It usually at TV area because unifi come with TV subscription. Unless you have already prepare LAN point.
S'aimer
post Aug 16 2014, 03:37 PM

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Bro,

Mind if I PM you?

QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 16 2014, 04:02 PM)
Depend where you want your equipment at. It usually at TV area because unifi come with TV subscription. Unless you have already prepare LAN point.
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Eng_Tat
post Aug 17 2014, 09:43 AM

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Your double poll switch is 63A, but the elcb is 40A. You should used 63A elcb as well normally. Do you used water heater as well, if yes, you should used separate Elcb for the heater, sensitivity rated 0.03.

QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 16 2014, 12:34 PM)
Took a look at my DB and It appears that I have 63A for my main fuse.

But realised that I don't see any fiber ready connection in storeroom or a telephone port at the back?
*
S'aimer
post Aug 17 2014, 11:15 AM

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Yes I have 1 water heater.

I also have a vitroceramic hob besides a built in oven.

What does a 63A double pole switch do?

QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Aug 17 2014, 10:43 AM)
Your double poll switch is 63A, but the elcb is 40A. You should used 63A elcb as well normally. Do you used water heater as well, if yes, you should used separate Elcb for the heater, sensitivity rated 0.03.
*
Eng_Tat
post Aug 17 2014, 11:56 AM

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Double pole is to cut off incoming from meter both N & L before going to the ELCB.

QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 17 2014, 11:15 AM)
Yes I have 1 water heater.

I also have a vitroceramic hob besides a built in oven.

What does a 63A double pole switch do?
*
S'aimer
post Aug 17 2014, 12:23 PM

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Hmm so what should I do then?

QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Aug 17 2014, 12:56 PM)
Double pole is to cut off incoming from meter both N & L before going to the ELCB.
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Eng_Tat
post Aug 17 2014, 01:32 PM

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if your load is more then 40A, then you should change the the main ELCB, also i would recommend to put in another ELCB for heater.

QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 17 2014, 12:23 PM)
Hmm so what should I do then?
*
weikee
post Aug 17 2014, 03:11 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 16 2014, 03:37 PM)
Bro,

Mind if I PM you?
*
Sure.
weikee
post Aug 17 2014, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Aug 17 2014, 01:32 PM)
if your load is more then 40A, then you should change the the main ELCB, also i would recommend to put in another ELCB for heater.
*
Rccb will be better. It have to wired on the output to the water heater. Not in the distribution box.
S'aimer
post Aug 17 2014, 03:48 PM

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RCB or RCD?

The electrical wiring has been done and electrician is from outskirts so how do I just settle the AMP load? As I plan to install 1 more aircon for one of the guest room over the next few days.

Currently, I havre 1 aircon and 1 water heater for MBR alone other than the oven, vitroceramic hob in kitchen.

Eng_Tat
post Aug 17 2014, 04:13 PM

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yes, but many Malaysian i notice don't really know's about putting additional safety for their WH...

QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 17 2014, 03:32 PM)
Rccb will be better. It have to wired on the output to the water heater. Not in the distribution box.
*
jimmylim85
post Aug 17 2014, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Aug 17 2014, 04:13 PM)
yes, but many Malaysian i notice don't really know's about putting additional safety for their WH...
*
The reason is simple, all Water Heater comes with ELCB built in. So electrician just provide one 20A isolator switch. Adding a RCCB will be too bulky and customer complains about it.

Anyway to learn more about the electrical safety circuit breakers. Refer here :

http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/w...b-elcb-and-rccb
Eng_Tat
post Aug 17 2014, 10:28 PM

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yes that's true that most wh comes with elcb, but we do still hear ppl get electrocuted. a proper stand alone elcb/rccb cost more than rm100, and we are not sure about the quality that comes with wh units as well. also a proper 13A socket is suppose to be paired with .03A sensitivity RCCB instead .1A sensitivity RCCB which is common practice in MY.

QUOTE(jimmylim85 @ Aug 17 2014, 08:29 PM)
The reason is simple, all Water Heater comes with ELCB built in. So electrician just provide one 20A isolator switch. Adding a RCCB will be too bulky and customer complains about it.

Anyway to learn more about the electrical safety circuit breakers. Refer here :

http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/w...b-elcb-and-rccb
*
jimmylim85
post Aug 17 2014, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Aug 17 2014, 10:28 PM)
yes that's true that most wh comes with elcb, but we do still hear ppl get electrocuted. a proper stand alone elcb/rccb cost more than rm100, and we are not sure about the quality that comes with wh units as well. also a proper 13A socket is suppose to be paired with .03A sensitivity RCCB instead .1A sensitivity RCCB which is common practice in MY.
*
Talking about branded ones is from "HAGER". One of the most reliable and branded. Cheaper albeit goes to "MEM" recognized by Britian since the British colony time.

A proper water heater plug is round pin which is rated 15A not our ordinary 13A BS13 plug. Usually the MCB that connects to it rating within 16A to 20A.

Usually available RCCB is valued at 0.3A nobody is too crazy to get 0.1A as is too sensitive and you get pissed off.

There is even RCCB electronically controlled sensitivity range from 0.1/0.3/0.5/0.7/1.0 but is very pricey.
S'aimer
post Aug 18 2014, 12:43 AM

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Sorry bros, I'm a little lost here.

Simply put, what should I do to set my ELCB to 63A from 40A if necessary and should I just keep or change the 63A double pole switch?

The heater points and air con points are 15A sockets with 20A gang switches.
jimmylim85
post Aug 18 2014, 01:43 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 18 2014, 12:43 AM)
Sorry bros, I'm a little lost here.

Simply put, what should I do to set my ELCB to 63A from 40A if necessary and should I just keep or change the 63A double pole switch?

The heater points and air con points are 15A sockets with 20A gang switches.
*
Firstly, changing your ELCB rating from 40A to 63A is not as simple as plug n play. You need to check whether your incoming cable diameter able to coup with it or not. If it can't coup it, might just burden the cable.
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post Aug 18 2014, 06:11 AM

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QUOTE(jimmylim85 @ Aug 18 2014, 01:43 AM)
Firstly, changing your ELCB rating from 40A to 63A is not as simple as plug n play. You need to check whether your incoming cable diameter able to coup with it or not. If it can't coup it, might just burden the cable.
*
The ELCB didnt control the Amp flowing. It just state there that it max can handle is 40A.

The wire shouldn't be problem. Since your main fuse is 63A. It well over the rate.
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post Aug 18 2014, 07:50 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 18 2014, 12:43 AM)
Sorry bros, I'm a little lost here.

Simply put, what should I do to set my ELCB to 63A from 40A if necessary and should I just keep or change the 63A double pole switch?

The heater points and air con points are 15A sockets with 20A gang switches.
*
ELCB no need to do anything, keep that 40A, lower will be always better.
Did it simply trip every now and then without lightning strike? If not that's mean you are not pulling true >40A yet.
S'aimer
post Aug 18 2014, 08:45 AM

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Bro, have not moved in yet due to ghost month.

Will have to see the the electrical movement when I have moved in. May have to wait a little longer to move in as a major problem came up.

QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 18 2014, 08:50 AM)
ELCB no need to do anything, keep that 40A, lower will be always better.
Did it simply trip every now and then without lightning strike? If not that's mean you are not pulling true >40A yet.
*
S'aimer
post Aug 18 2014, 08:47 AM

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Hopefully? Thank you bro.

QUOTE(ozak @ Aug 18 2014, 07:11 AM)
The ELCB didnt control the Amp flowing. It just state there that it max can handle is 40A.

The wire shouldn't be problem. Since your main fuse is 63A. It well over the rate.
*
S'aimer
post Aug 18 2014, 08:48 AM

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Will monitor first and decide whether to change or not. Thank you for your advice bro.
QUOTE(jimmylim85 @ Aug 18 2014, 02:43 AM)
Firstly, changing your ELCB rating from 40A to 63A is not as simple as plug n play. You need to check whether your incoming cable diameter able to coup with it or not. If it can't coup it, might just burden the cable.
*
jimmylim85
post Aug 18 2014, 08:55 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Aug 18 2014, 06:11 AM)
The ELCB didnt control the Amp flowing. It just state there that it max can handle is 40A.

The wire shouldn't be problem. Since your main fuse is 63A. It well over the rate.
*
Don't take the wire for granted. Is advisable to check the cable core thickness and make sure the Main fuse is really rated for 60A or 32A (the fuse box beside the electrical meter). There is also a big chances there is no HRC Fuse inside the fuse box. Just one strip of copper wire to act as an fuse. It happens in a lot of housing area. I wonder where was the supposed HRC Fuse goes... sweat.gif

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