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Renovations 3-phase wiring

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jimmylim85
post Aug 17 2014, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Aug 17 2014, 04:13 PM)
yes, but many Malaysian i notice don't really know's about putting additional safety for their WH...
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The reason is simple, all Water Heater comes with ELCB built in. So electrician just provide one 20A isolator switch. Adding a RCCB will be too bulky and customer complains about it.

Anyway to learn more about the electrical safety circuit breakers. Refer here :

http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/w...b-elcb-and-rccb
jimmylim85
post Aug 17 2014, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(Eng_Tat @ Aug 17 2014, 10:28 PM)
yes that's true that most wh comes with elcb, but we do still hear ppl get electrocuted. a proper stand alone elcb/rccb cost more than rm100, and we are not sure about the quality that comes with wh units as well. also a proper 13A socket is suppose to be paired with .03A sensitivity RCCB instead .1A sensitivity RCCB which is common practice in MY.
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Talking about branded ones is from "HAGER". One of the most reliable and branded. Cheaper albeit goes to "MEM" recognized by Britian since the British colony time.

A proper water heater plug is round pin which is rated 15A not our ordinary 13A BS13 plug. Usually the MCB that connects to it rating within 16A to 20A.

Usually available RCCB is valued at 0.3A nobody is too crazy to get 0.1A as is too sensitive and you get pissed off.

There is even RCCB electronically controlled sensitivity range from 0.1/0.3/0.5/0.7/1.0 but is very pricey.
jimmylim85
post Aug 18 2014, 01:43 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 18 2014, 12:43 AM)
Sorry bros, I'm a little lost here.

Simply put, what should I do to set my ELCB to 63A from 40A if necessary and should I just keep or change the 63A double pole switch?

The heater points and air con points are 15A sockets with 20A gang switches.
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Firstly, changing your ELCB rating from 40A to 63A is not as simple as plug n play. You need to check whether your incoming cable diameter able to coup with it or not. If it can't coup it, might just burden the cable.
jimmylim85
post Aug 18 2014, 08:55 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Aug 18 2014, 06:11 AM)
The ELCB didnt control the Amp flowing. It just state there that it max can handle is 40A.

The wire shouldn't be problem. Since your main fuse is 63A. It well over the rate.
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Don't take the wire for granted. Is advisable to check the cable core thickness and make sure the Main fuse is really rated for 60A or 32A (the fuse box beside the electrical meter). There is also a big chances there is no HRC Fuse inside the fuse box. Just one strip of copper wire to act as an fuse. It happens in a lot of housing area. I wonder where was the supposed HRC Fuse goes... sweat.gif
jimmylim85
post Aug 18 2014, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 18 2014, 10:46 AM)
What is the cable core thickness?

The fuse box beside the electrical meter? Are you refering to this black thingy beside the meter in the photo?

PS: the pic was taken somewhere else on this forum, just use as reference
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Cable core thickness is the one from meter entering to your Main Fuse Box (inside your house)

The fuse box on the left I'm referring to. Inspect the fuse rating or is there really a fuse inside. Please seek a qualified electrician to do so. I strongly do not recommend house owner to check on these stuff as it can be lethal when you get electrocuted. The electrocution from this wires are more harmful and lead to death than the ones found inside your house premises.
jimmylim85
post Aug 18 2014, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 18 2014, 11:36 AM)
I see.

The meter and fuse box are the old version that came with the house (a subsale) in its original condition.

The cable is that thick one above the meter?
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Yes is indeed thick but somehow those cable pass-through seems is not as thick as the one supplied
jimmylim85
post Aug 18 2014, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(S'aimer @ Aug 18 2014, 05:12 PM)
Oh, I don't know then because after checking my photos, I think the cable that passes through has been concealed indoors.
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It can be seen the moment you remove the cover of your Main Distribution Board aka your fuse box internal.

QUOTE(supersound @ Aug 18 2014, 08:58 PM)
If you are going to use single phase without upgrading, then just use the 40A ELCB.
No doubt the main cable from TNB can go upto 100-200A, but then for single phase to pull full 40A all the time are quite challenging part. If you can pull that, your bill will hit rm800-900 monthly.
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That's the benefit of having 3 Phase electrical. 3 phase reduce the burden load of a single phase electrical. There is chances the electrical bill won't be expensive than relying on single phase meter. But don't be surprised when 3 phase electrical having one or two phase malfunction due to TNB electrical fault. You'll notice when one of your room has no electrical supplies


 

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