Continuation from previous:

Car Care & Detailing [V1]

Car Care & Detailing [V2]

[-Reserved for TT, Gatherings, Events, etc-]

- DIT (Do It Together) 15 December 2013 - CONCLUDED

- Detailing TT 7 February 2014 - CONCLUDED


This post has been edited by KrisMas: Feb 18 2014, 10:35 AM

[-Reserved for Guides, FAQs, etc.-]

[-Reserved-]

Reporting in. +1

grats on v3 and huge amount of new posters/detailers from V2

Learning...newbie

Sweet.

Anyone knows where can get turtle wax headlamp restorer? The one that come with sandpad and stuff?
And anyone knows how to remove irritating water stains on windscreen? Must use sandpaper as well?

This topic is moving fast !

Congrats, newie here

good question, i wanna know too =P

easily can be find in Aeon Big.

TW items can find from eneos/ace hardware or even major super markets such as aeon/tesco.

for watermarks on glass:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=58557449

I guess we can gather all the basic knowledge about detailing and put it in the FAQs so that newbie like me wont have to repeat the same question over and over again

boss Krismas
plz plz

Yeah V3 now!

Maybe just put all the general guides and FAQ on the first few posts.

congrats on V3

i saw in this thread (V2 or V1) if im not mistaken someone asking about TW rinseless wash. Anybody of u guys use it? when i search in the net, saw that the price was RM30++ but i did found it at JJ and ACE but it cost nearly RM50 if i'm not mistaken, from the review i've read, it's produced almost similar end result as ONR. The price is definitely cheaper compared to ONR and DG....is it worth it?




Attached thumbnail(s)

Not as good as ONR but for that price is quite good already. Got it from Tesco.

I will not expect the result to be exactly same as ONR since the price already almost half the price of ONR. You got it from Tesco? what is the price? is it RM30++? i saw it at JJ last time its RM50++ (pack with the MF Cloth)...but we have to use 4oz of TWRF per 2 gallon of water compared to 1oz of ONR...i guess if we take that into calculate...its still almost the same price as ONR (correct me if im wrong) =.=

Dun care about the usage since can scale down one.
Also dun buy from Ace. Tesco price about 30++.

Better to polish by hand or machine?

>>> If swirl marks appear after polishing, how to remove?
>>> Anyway to polish a car and leaving a smooth clear surface? no marks at all, just some tips on how to please

>>> Continue to polish until the swirl gone.
>>> Depend what product and what tool (ROB,DA,RB, Pad) you used. Different product will have different technique to breakdown the product.

REMEMBER, always start will mildest product upon surface preparation (tar removal, clayed)

Ace's price is too expensive. Tesco you can get it around RM35. Just bought it 2 weeks ago but haven't started using it. Online reviews said you can achieve the same result as ONR if you follow the instructions (4oz for 2 gallons).

Yeah, if you measure this way, the price is actually the same as ONR. The great thing is that you can get TWRF easily in Tesco compared to ONR.

This post has been edited by windskill: Dec 3 2013, 10:13 PM

Do let us know the result, I'm considering this or ONR. ONR in gallon packing is much cheaper compare to 32oz packing.

Sure, no problem. Probably will try that this coming weekend or next weekend. Hopefully my noob iPhone 4 can capture the difference haha.

Yeah, the gallon packing of ONR is cheaper. Initially, I bought TWRF because I wanted to use it as clay lube. But I don't think I can't find any free time to do the complete wash->clay bar->polish->wax/sealant->LSP. So, clay lube experiment have to delay till next year mid January probably.

where to buy a gallon of ONR ?

I apply with pad and remove w/ microfibre cloth but the swirl marks follows on how I remove the polish, if i do circular motion then swirld marks, if i do up down then up down scratches appear :/ I tried many different techniques but somehow still the same is it the polish? FYI i used turtle wax polishing compound, clayed and washed before polish too, just very puzzled here

Can share what car, year and color please.

Blue saga 1.6 FLX 2013

Possible the product that i highlighted might have worsen the surface since 'compound' is very abrasive product. As for your swirl might, could be due to product is not fully breakdown and you buff off thats why the swirl 'follow' your movement....

thanks for info mind recommending me any reasonably priced polish brand and where i can get it

Dun give up and upsad give. I would suggest you let sifu have a look and they should able to remove it with few drop from there product (dun buy keep product)...

Awaiting KrisMas sifu organise TT.

Noted with thank you really appreciate it.

You mentioned the swirls followed the directions you wipe. Does the direction of the swirl change if you wipe in another direction WITHOUT polishing again? If so, then it could just be that you didn't remove the polish properly and they're just streaks from the residual polish. It could also be that the mf cloth you're using was saturated with the polish. Have you tried changing to another clean cloth and see whether it makes any difference? You can also try wiping them off with the help of a quick detailer or water or even a *very* weak mix of dishwashing detergent+water.

Not sure which TW polishing compound you're using, but it could also be that it's a very coarse compound and if you're using too much of it, the access compound would be picked up by the mf cloth and acts as though you're 'polishing' instead of removing.

And btw, the mf cloth could also be the cause. The mf cloth comes in many grades and quality. I find that those that are commonly found in shopping centre aren't that 'friendly' with cars clear coat - can easily induce some swirls.

Another question I need to ask: did you apply any pressure while buffing off/removing the polish? You're not suppose to need much pressure. Not sure about the TW that you're using, but normally, if done correctly, most polishes just needed a gentle wipe to remove.

If you want to DIY, try doing some troubleshooting as above. Hopefully it's not because the paint is very soft and easily damaged. I haven't heard of Proton's paintwork to be that soft though....

How can we know whether our paint is hard or soft type?

Not sure how to answer that one. Some say you can roughly tell how hard/soft the clear coat is by the gloss it produce - the softer ones are glossier than the harder clear. Maybe the pros who detail cars day-in-day-out have a better say. But for me, I can only tell when I'm trying to remove defects or finishing. It was quite a task to finish hologram/swirl free on the soft clear of my friend's Vios whereas it took quite a few passes of a compound with a wool pad to remove some minor swirls on a Z4 that we once did a DIT. But, in general, the small community of detailers do share some info on how soft/hard the paint is on those cars that they've worked on. I'm just relaying the info.....

based on my experience. Soft CC should easy to do correction vs Hard CC. Majority of modern car is on soft/thin clear coat.

Again it also depend what sort of defect + product abrasiveness

Hi guys.

Good day to all of you. I just purchased :
Turtle Wax Zip Wash T75
Turtle Wax Polish compound T241A
Turtle Wax Paste Wax T223

My car is a 6 years old Silver Hyundai Getz. i have sponge, cloth, 2 micro fibre towels.

Do you guys mind to teach me step by step and what prduct and material to use at what stage..Means wax first or polish, how hard to polish or just wipe off. This is my first time.

Thank you in advance ya. =]

what's your paintwork condition ? any image + close up image to share ?

Wash -> Clay(advisable) -> Wash again -> Dry(can clean interior while waiting for the car to be fully dried -> follow instructions on your polish then apply -(wait for it to dry)> remove polish (can do few times but if lazy then be like me do once) -> apply wax then wait for 30 minutes then remove

>> polish a lot harder than waxing

>> i have no idea on technique for polishing FYI

This post has been edited by xffght5829: Dec 4 2013, 03:31 PM

>> nope i can change the directions of swirls if i re-polish the area again(just tried LOL)
>>i apply a lot of pressure to remove polish :/
>> i apply polish w/ pad, remove excess with normal cotton cloth and wait for it to dry then i remove everything with microfibre cloth

Hi there. Paintwork condition i think its not so good la. old car d. previously never polish / wax. Shine also fading jor. The car was passed on to me. I love cars and taking care of them. Image i will share soon. I dont know which product to use first. I am also worried to simply use the product as currently on the surface sure got alot stones, later i apply the polish, worry might make the whole thing into a disaster because it will carry out the stone and dirt and scratch the paint even worst.

Thanks for your attention.

Hi ..

Yes, i think i will need to do clay as this car never polished before. Can you advise me where to buy ? how to buy and what type to buy ?

recently just started my diy detailing and found it is very interesting. bought black and decker kp600 polisher, because it is more gentle for a beginner like me? cause i read a lot review saying rotary polisher might damage car paint so i dont want to take the risk.

so my materials are Permanon Platinum pro pack, with brilliantshine shampoo and fusion x3, meguairs quik detailer, meguairs ultimate polish. my process goes like this (wash-clay-wash-polish-platinum coat first layer-fusion x3-platinum coat another layer.

i took 7 hours non-stop for an accord without realizing the time pass so fast.

but actually what i wanted to achieve is the mirror shine effect, and i am not achieving. is this because of the polishing part? i not dare to go too much for polishing yet because scare it will cause more scratchess.

Wow. 7 hours. When you do something you like, time just seems to pass by very fast right ? hope to see your before & after shots.

i tried put the pictures in pc to compare but really not much different. maybe because the car paint still quite new? or the polishing not deep enough to create mirror shine? read a lot about orange peel leveling but seems too risky trying it.

errr....hrrrmm....doesn't sound like you doing it right.

I google and found these:

http://www.turtlewax.com/shop/products/tur...ishing-compound

http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-241A-Po...d/dp/B0009JKGJ2

Is the 1st one the one that you're using? Or the one in a can? Either way, it's the same and judging by the description/instruction, I think you need to check your method/technique.

Polishing/compounding is for removing defects/swirls. If the TW polishing compound is meant for that, then you should be using it with the applicator pad with a little pressure (passion) to remove defects. Working on a small (around 1' x 1') area at a time, work the polish with a little bit of pressure then gently wipe off immediately after finished working it. Unless the instruction on the label says otherwise, that would normally be how to work a polish/compound. If you needed a lot of pressure to remove the polish, it's either you're using too much product or you're not working it correctly. You're not suppose to wait for it to dry.

I do something similar few weeks back but by hand and different products. Before start, it is a bit dull, swirls and scratches mark can be easily pick up by naked eye. After compound, the original color is back and most of the defects are not so visible. The shine will appeared after the coating and wax. You can separate the panel into half and compare the before and after.

Slowly bro...slowly. In order to achieve the 'mirror-like' shine, you'd need to remove as much defects as possible. Megs Ultimate Polish and the B&D is a good start. That is quite a safe combination, but it's also a very mild one. Maybe you should try a few more rounds on a small section of the car and see whether you can improve or not. Again, the more defects you remove the flatter the clear coat would become and the shinier it would be. Don't worry about harming the paint. If the car is new or had never been polished/compounded before, you should be safe using that combination for quite a few more rounds.

You're quite right about removing orange peel. Only start thinking about that when you're confident that you are able to remove sanding marks.

Step 1 - wash & clean thoroughly
Step 2 - clay
Step 3 - wash (a simple one would do)
Step 4 - dry
Step 5 - polish with the TW Polishing Compound (with a little pressure) until you're satisfied (or too tired to continue.... ) and immediately *gently* wipe off
Step 6 - wash again (a simple one enough, I mean...the car is already clean right...)
Step 7 - dry
Step 8 - apply TW Paste Wax -> leave to dry -> buff off

If the car had never been clayed before or recently polished before, I DEFINITELY recommend to clay it.

Good luck.

ps. you'd most probably need more than one sponge; don't let the cloth come anywhere near the car and get a few more mf cloths.....

Car detailing is like a drug, once you are devoted into it, you are basically having car detailing addiction

Then form another group called Detailers Anonymous.

thanks for the advice, but compounding is different with polishing right? should i do compounding first before polishing?

Thank you very much dear friend. I need to learn about this CLAY process. not familair with it. i read saying that after apply polish, if got excess need to immediately wipe off, means shouldn't be too thick layer la ? this motion is in circular motion right ? i am all using hand, not machine wor.
Step 6 need to use car detergent wash again ? Step 8 buff means also wipe off in circular motion right ?

Another sponge for what ya ? to apply the polish / wax is it ? isn't it apply on the car with finger then wipe in circular motion ? Don't get which cloth come near the car ? 2 MF clothes are used to only wipe off the polish & wax separately right ?

Maybe we should do a TT so can enjoy pampering the car together.

I'm a noobie also...but imo is better to use mf cloth to touch your car...especially on washing part...never use a rag or the old cloth as u might ended with scratching the car..

Step 1 - wash & clean thoroughly (sponge + 1 mf to dry off)
Step 2 - clay
Step 3 - wash (a simple one would do)
Step 4 - dry (use the same mf at #1)
Step 5 - polish with the TW Polishing Compound (with a little pressure) until you're satisfied (or too tired to continue.... sweat.gif ) and immediately *gently* wipe off (applicator pad + 1mf to buff off)
Step 6 - wash again (a simple one enough, I mean...the car is already clean right...)
Step 7 - dry (use the same mf as #1)
Step 8 - apply TW Paste Wax -> leave to dry -> buff off (applicator pad + 1mf)

Imo...minimum u have to use 3 mf cloth, 1 sponge, and 2 applicator pad...if u can use more clean mf is better ..maybe other pros here can correct me if the suggestion is wrong

This post has been edited by haushinka: Dec 4 2013, 05:46 PM

compounding, sanding (wet or dry) to remove orange peel or achieve mirror finishing is DEFINITELY not for noobie as it required understanding of product abrasiveness, use of pad and machine (combo), paintwork and clear coat behaviour and its need MANY MANY practice

For an enthusiast, they will use washmitt (very particular) in washing instead using SPONGE as 99% of the swirl or scrat come from washing/drying (not to mention washing/drying technique)

Yes bro..u are right..i would rather use the mf cloth to wash the car compared to sponge.. So for bro brijesh...better buy lots of mf cloth or the washmitt hehehe

Lights finally done. Ample of shine even during night time detailing sessions http://twitpic.com/dnkk31

hey guys. I just finished washing my car 1 hour ago.

I bought the liquid clay by TW. not sure if i am using it right. i put on the sponge and scrub the car, but still can feel some bits on the body (not smooth).

Then i washed the car with detergent and then dry off and prepare for polish compound. Applying the compound with damp cotton cloth was not a problem, only wiping it off almost broke my hand. hahaha....I literally had to use pressure and 3 strokes to get the marks off. Does this means i am using too much compound ?

I then waxed the entire body panel. So waxing have to leave it for 30min then wipe off right ?

Some how have the feeling i am not doing something right as during polish i feel its very dry and hard. Only during waxing i felt it shined more. I fear i might have screwed up the polishing part and end up making more scratches.

Guys, any reviews of the foam gun sold at Duragloss' website? This one operates with your hose pressure and not with a PW but will it create thick nice suds? Looking to expand the arsenal a bit...

http://estore.duragloss.com.my/webapp/wcs/...isplayErrorView

Look 'shining' for the reflection but is it swirl free (try park your car under street (yellow) light) and check it out.

Detailing is not only talking about how 'shining' - layman term...we will talked about how GLOSSY, WET Gloss is it + how good is the water beading/sheeting the surface and how long the protection can last.

1. Before/After Clay...wrap your hand with a clean plastic bag or finger into a cigarette pack wrap (if you are a smoker ), glide against the surface and feel the smoothness of the surface.....our hand is too 'rough' to determine the smoothness of the surface

2. What kinda of 'compound' are you referring to ? Is this product workable with hand or only machine ? I am suspecting you either put too much or too little product where it didn't really breakdown or dried up....thats why you have a hard time buff off.

3. Generally the misconception is apply as much (thicker layer) of wax as you can - the fact you dun need ANY pressure at all, and apply as thin layer as possible. If you can apply until no buffing require (got to feel with your hand/pad)...you are

4. Starting detailing sometime is trial and error

Yes if you do the job , partially depend also on the type of shampoo + dilution ratio you use...check out google, tonnes of foam gun video - you might wanna check out what is 'foam lance "

oh no that car has not been washed for more than 2 months.
it's actually very dirty and there's nothing worth mentioning about.

just showing pictures of my new house lighting as house renovation is just done.
it is to prepare for my new car and of course i'll be using that parking lot for my detailing sessions

Thank you for your advise. the compound i am using is the Polishing compound by Turtle wax. How you suggest i use the compound ?

I am really not sure how to handle the liquid clay bar. Do you know where i can buy a normal clay bar ?

I believe you are using this. If i were you i will stop using this since i have experience long ago with my previous car with this product (that time zero knowledge of detailing) somehow its left the paintwork a severe damage. I was using it with hand.



For clay, you can get it easily from Aeon or Aeon Big at normal price Rm29.90, sales time usually around Rm26.90



* There is Clay No.1 , 2, and 3 according to paintwork condition and colour.

Hope this help

Think of it this way. Imagine something like sandpaper. A compound as heavier grit (like 1000 grit) and a polish is lighter grit (say 3000 grit). A compound is more aggressive and will cut more (and faster) but would leave heavy marks. A polish is lighter and has lesser cut but better finish. For heavier defects (like scratches, heavy water etchings, severe oxidation, etc.) a compound would work faster in removing them but, itself, would leave what we call 'compounding marks', which is in a way, also a form of defects. So you'd need a lighter polish to remove and refine the finish to give it a higher gloss. A light polish would also be able to remove the heavier defects but would take longer time and more applications. Therefore, if the surface has severe defects, it's a good idea to start with a compound (faster) and finish with a lighter polish. If just very mild defects, a light polish would do.

It's a bit difficult to describe how to work with a compound/polish. Better if you look for videos on the net. Plenty of them out there. I suggest you start with something like 'how to use Meguiars Ultimate Compound' and 'Meguiars Ultimate Polish'. That should cover the basics about compounding and polishing. You can also search for 'Meguiars Ultimate Wax' for the basic method of application of wax.

Oh...it's not the TW ICE liquid clay is it? Sorry to say, I've tried it before and it doesn't work as good as traditional clay bar. Next time around, get yourself some soft99 clay bar or those from established brands like Meguiars, Duragloss, Mothers, 3M, etc. Also, plenty of videos on the net on how to clay your car.

Again, for the rest, plenty of videos on the net, search for them, watch and study. Afterwards, if got anymore question shoot away.

You won't get suds as thick as a 'foam lance' used with a pressure washer:

FOAM GUN WITH GARDEN HOSE


FOAM LANCE WITH A PRESSURE WASHER


But remember though, both has their own pros and cons.
For example, the foam lance would give thicker foam and cling better. Also uses lesser product. But expensive and takes more time to set up.
Foam gun gives out thinner foam, uses more products but less expensive and easier (can just use normal quick coupler).
I can list out a few more differences but, in general, the foam gun is more practical for 'normal' use. FYI, nowadays I seldom use my foam lance anymore.....

Oh...take note though...my house water supply pressure is very high. Even with normal sprayer on jet setting, I can shoot the water all the way onto the roof of my 2-storey house and can easily reach a horizontal distance of 50' ~ 60'. You'd get lesser foam than the picture I posted above if the pressure is lower.

Talk about product aggressiveness/abrasiveness, there are account alot of comparison charge available on the next - which majority compare about all the branded professional series product.

Here is one of the example (view in full screen)



Not only product have aggressiveness/abrasiveness rating (the more abrasive = the more cutting power but hardly can leave perfect (no swirl finishing) even PAD also have aggressiveness/abrasiveness level.

Are you all getting more existing ?

Check out here
http://www.autogeekonline.net/index.php?pageid=Charts

Black car....hehehe....are those LEDs or normal ones? SO BRIGHT!!!

Anyway, a couple of suggestions.

1. Looks like the lighting is just at one side. You might want to consider setting one up on a tripod/stand for mobility sake so that you can carry it around the car. Also for working at the lower panels. Also good to have one for outdoor activities like barbeques, etc....

2. I think it's time to get yourself a decent torch light for inspections. They're good for emergency situations too, like during black-outs, night time travels, temporary blinding 'unwanted' visitors, etc. Or maybe even a headlamp.

are you guiding them to become hardcore detailer like you sifu ?

eh i told you my car color during proton bola event? or you reading my mind? XD
and nah, they are just normal Philips Fluorescent lifemax with brightboost tubes at highest color temperature 6500k:
http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.com.my/l/...27982286536_eu/
so far should suffice... then there's the "xtreme" versions rofl:
http://www.ecat.lighting.philips.com.my/l/...27982386514_eu/

i think the brightness is due to phone cam not able to capture light properly and just glare the whole thing up

1) yes i got a tripod halogen spotlight too for serious works

the only missing lightining are on the gate direction past the awning.
theres 1 left of the car (middle pillar, hiding behind the drain pipe) and 1 right of car underneath a covered/weather proof enclosure
2 on the back, 1 on the edge of the top awning (that round one)
so if i want to focus on the hood, generally i'll go in hood first, else the ass first as i got a lot more space to work with.

but yea the whole place lights up like a chrismas tree compared to neighbors so it's kinda attention grabbing in a way; more so i only turn em on during night detailing session and my house would be the only xtra bright one lol

2) ah good reminder, gonna start shopping for one from amazon or something. that famous damn bright one? iinm also not using conventional batteries? i remember we talked about it, just can't recall it at the moment on the brand name...

i was fortunately (or unfortunately? ) under his guidance for quite some time already

Most efficient one (power/runtime) would be something that runs on Lithium-ion polymer/LiPo rechargeable battery cells size 18650. One decent brand battery + charger (not including torch light) would cost around RM120~RM150...expensive? Maybe la. But if you can afford it, let me just tell you that I have one Eagle Tac battery which is more than 5 years old and is still in good working condition, so it's a worthwhile investment.

Plenty of decent brands available over here, Fenix, Eagle Tac, Nitecore, Zebralights, Armytek, Jetbeam, iTP, Solarforce, etc....just to name a few (I dare not mention Surefire or even some other brands which are the Swissvax of torches ). I had bought a couple of cheapo brands torches before but, just wanna say, the amount of money saved is the amount of money wasted with those....

You can look around at this guy's thread: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showuser=164040

Danny's a great guy and should be able to 'guide' you and recommend something that would suit your budget....

oh...oh...and careful ya. This one could also developed into another addiction...don't ask how I know....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Dec 5 2013, 12:45 PM

good please don't mention LOL!

anyways thanks for the info! will check it out once i clear more on my debts from singapore/car/house reno

i find it soo hard to take care of my solid red paint even when new :/ theres already swirl marks and i also find it hard to dry properly (water marks)...thinking of doing coating.

If you're up to it (financially) go for it. But just remember one thing, as far as I know coating won't prevent re-occurrence of what you've mentioned. It's all actually come down to PROPER MAINTENANCE - eg. washing, drying, etc., which include products, tools and method/techniques. Even the best coating would require maintenance and that's why most of the places that do coating would sell you packages which include maintenance, of which you'd need to abide else the warranty would be void.

is there anywhere in KL to buy ONR and OCWax in gallons?

Also can the Scratch X 2.0 by meguiars be a polish replacement?

I am currenly living in a condo and can only do correction by hand so trying to find a good polish that is forgiving to CC if applied by hand.

Thanks!

Just what I needed to know - thanks! I've been hearing various mentions that more product needs to be used, the others say pressure is essential to create thick and clingy suds - guess it'll be at the backburner for now.

Look for Meguiars Colour X. A very good AIO product

Thanks sir will try to look and try it out.

Regarding the ONR and OCW, any one knows?

Also, a question to everyone... Do you wash your cars everytime you drive through rain?

Im kind of OCD regarding my car and been doing that. Dont know if there is an alternative ways of drying the car after driving in the rain.

Thanks!

Ace hardware, jusco, tesco, any brand will do. you should keep it in a plastic container after using so you can reuse it.
no specific type LOL

quick wash and dry will do i guess cant take more than 30 minutes
if you can do it right, a bucket of water and a cloth will do to wash

with a good protection, average about 40km/h will blow off all the water.....

alternatively, dun drive keep the car at home

I'm using the 2nd polish, only 1 I see on the shelf at Ace hardware and Aeon Big. I usually let it dry and a white haze appears on it before i remove maybe thats the problem, I'll try removing it straight away the next time i do, should be next year though, wont want to over-polish my paint noted and thanks for advice greatly appreciated

Look like you use too much of product until it 'cake up' and dried - harden. If too much of product apply, you would remove it while its still wet or use a damp cloth to move it - least pressure the better

Got it, thank you all for advice

Here's an OCD way of putting things into perspective: The more you touch the paint, the more the chance of instilling swirls/marrings onto it. If you do need to wash often, I'd suggest you research on washing and drying techniques, tools and products so that you would MINIMIZE instilling damages incidental to your washing/drying.

My suggestion:

Firstly, have a good protection (wax/sealant/coating) on and keep it healthy by whichever way recommended (spray wax/topper/'refresher'/etc.) on the product's label. Do this every week or every time or as many time as necessary during your 'proper' wash program/routine. This would ensure that dirt or any contaminant can be easily clean off without requiring 'aggressive' method (like stronger shampoo mix, more passes with a wash mitt, stubborn stain, etc.). In between you routine washes, what you can do is just douse or spray your car with water and dry it. Safest way of doing this (if you're really OCD) is to get yourself one of those electric leaf blower and blow the water off instead of wiping dry with a cloth. DO NOT...i repeat...DO NOT even attempt to use one of those drying 'blades' or wiper blades to 'wipe' the water off. Another good machine to have for this is a pressure washer whereby you can just 'shoot' most and more of the dirt off as oppose to normal garden spray hose.

Going even deeper, afterwards you can use those 'waterless' or 'rinseless' wash, spray them on and wipe. Ecowash, Optimum No Rinse, Megs Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere, etc. are example of products that are available here that you can use for this purpose. Actually, if your car is not-so-dirty, the 'waterless' or 'rinseless' washes would be a better choice in cleaning up as oppose to using plain water.

Again, the more you touch the more the risk, there are products and tools available to minimize this but nothing can beat good technique & knowledge.

After saying all that, personally, if my car is dirty or been exposed to dirty rainy days, I would either do a proper wash if I have the time or just let it be and wash it properly during my weekend routine wash . Knowing that, if anything, most of the damages caused by this kind of weather are easily corrected with the tools and products that I have.....

Hi Guys,

Just found this thread...

Reporting in

Just wondering, where to get the electric leaf blower ar? TQ

Thanks KrisMas.

Actually i dont have the luxury of getting any machine operated tools and endless water supply as i live in a condo and do my detailing in my parking building.

So with that, i do have the necessary tools that i need for this kind of situation. For now i use TW rinseless for washing together with a wash mitt, one bucket with 2 gallons of water and a grit guard. PG no.1 clay and I have an AIO which is a TW cleaner wax but mostly i use a meguiars wax.

Finding a good polish and sealant but that is planned for next year already.

But if it rained in between washes, i do a quick rinsless wash and thats it. Im mostly afraid of the watermarks appearing in my CC so i try to get them off asap.

But what you said is true, that the more you touch the paint, the more prone it would be for defects so i was asking if there is an alternative but seems i just need to really get better in washing my car.

Thanks again for the guidance.