The guinea pig (also commonly called the Cavy after its scientific name, Cavia porcellus) is a species of rodent belonging to the family Caviidae and the genus Cavia. Despite their common name, these animals are not pigs, nor do they come from Guinea. They originated in the Andes. Their docile nature, their responsiveness to handling and feeding, and the relative ease of caring for them, continue to make the guinea pig a popular pet.

Guinea pigs are hardy and affectionate and make great companions. However, people often think of them as "low-maintenance" pets, when in reality, they require a lot of care and attention. Guinea pigs can be quite vocal and will often greet you with whistles and shrieks.

Guinea pigs communicate and interact with each other, through behavior and sound. They can also show their feelings towards us humans. Often movement accompanies the sound they are making. As well as looking gorgeous and extremely cute, a guinea pig’s behavior matches their cute looks, most of the time.


The Guinea Pig has its origins in the high mountains of South America. Natives of modern day Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador domesticated the Guinea Pig for use as food. To this day, Guinea Pigs are still raised for food in certain areas of South America.
In the 1600s Spanish sailors were the first to adopt Guinea Pigs as pets and brought them back to Europe from South America. Since that time, Guinea Pigs have been bred to produce a wide variety of types of Guinea Pigs.
These small furry creatures came to be known as “pigs” because of the squeaking noises they make – Guinea Pigs are not related to pigs. The name “Guinea” is believed to have been derived from the route that was traveled to bring these furry animals to Europe – by way of Guinea. Many other cultures throughout the world have also adopted a derivation of the “pig” name for these animals. The scientific name for the Guinea Pig is Cavia porcellus – translated in Latin to mean “little pig.”


Guinea pigs can multiply rapidly, even at a young age. It is essential to determine a guinea pig's gender to eliminate the chance of an unwanted litter. Even very young sows may be carrying babies when purchased from a pet store. By learning to tell the sex of guinea pigs, you make an informed choice when bringing one into your home.




Guinea pigs are social creatures and enjoy the company of other animals, especially other guinea pigs. Males generally don't get along, however, unless they're neutered. Two females will usually do fine together, as will a male and female. Be sure to have the male neutered, otherwise you'll soon have unwanted litters.
A pair of guinea pigs is a better option than just one. There are a number of issues to weigh on both sides of the one or two guinea pigs question. Bottom line, the decision for just one is usually the result of what is best for you. The decision for two is usually the result of what is best for the guinea pig. We usually go with what is best for the guinea pigs. If you cannot provide the best possible life for the animals, then perhaps you should consider an animal that would be happier living within your constraints. That may sound tough, but it's worth thinking about.
Guinea pigs have a keen sense of sight. They also have the ability to recognize all the colors of the spectrum. Their hearing is even better than their vision, and they can quickly learn to respond to a specific sound. Guinea pigs don't use their claws to carry food to their mouth, but put their front feet on the food to hold it still. Young guinea pigs love to jump, so you might want to build them a little obstacle course for exercise.


Guinea pigs are easily stressed and require careful handling. Always let your guinea pig know you're there by allowing it to sniff your hand. To pick up your guinea pig, slowly place one hand under its chest, just behind the front legs, and gently cup your other hand under its hindquarters. Once you have a firm but gentle grip, lift it up and immediately pull it close to your chest or lap so it doesn't thrash around. Guinea pigs feel most secure
when they're held close to your body and when their feet are supported. Since guinea pigs aren't very agile, a fall could result in serious injury. Guinea pigs love to have their heads scratched and will frequently make a "chattering" sound similar to a cat's purr to show their appreciation. The more you handle your guinea pig, the friendlier and tamer it will be.
A well-cared-for guinea pig may live four to seven years. Male guinea pigs can weigh between two to four pounds, females slightly less. Guinea pigs are sexually mature between five and eight weeks of age. Guinea pigs groom themselves with their front teeth, tongue and back claws, but they still require frequent brushing and combing to stay clean and tangle free, particularly the long-haired breeds. Use a soft baby brush or toothbrush. Because your guinea pig's teeth grow continuously, it's essential that you provide it with hard things to gnaw on to prevent its teeth from growing too long. Hard wood, untreated wicker and hard bread crusts are some suggested items. It's also possible for your guinea pig's nails to overgrow, causing discomfort and increasing your risk of being scratched. Ask your veterinarian to show you how to trim your guinea pig's nails.


Guinea pig nails should be trimmed as often as necessary and may not ever need to be trimmed depending on what type of surface your pet is accustomed to. Guinea pigs that spend a lot of time on hard, semi-rough surfaces will naturally wear down their claws to an acceptable length. If your guinea pig mostly lives on soft surfaces, the claws will grow longer into a sharp tip. Using commercially available cat clippers, clip the end of the claws – do not cut the claws too short to avoid injury.


Just like other members of the rodent family, the guinea pig’s front two teeth – the incisors – will grow throughout its entire life. Because these teeth are always growing, if they are not worn down naturally or clipped occasionally they will curve into the mouth preventing proper eating resulting in starvation. To care for your guinea pig’s teeth, make sure to provide your pet safe toys to gnaw on such as commercially available chew sticks, tree branches or wood blocks. The natural chewing action will wear down the front teeth to a healthy, acceptable length.
If the teeth become too long and are in need of clipping, take your pet into the local veterinarian to have the clipping done. Additionally, if you notice that the teeth are chipped, consult with your veterinarian.


Guinea pigs are fastidious groomers and generally will keep their fur clean by themselves. If you choose to brush your pet’s fur, use a stiff pet brush by applying moderate pressure to remove loose hair and to remove any mats. As you brush, inspect the ears and skin for any signs of mites, fleas or any other kind of skin irritation or abrasion.


Most guinea pigs do not like the water – in fact, the panic induced by a bath can result in unhealthy stress and potential injury. Guinea pigs should not be bathed unless they absolutely need it – for medical reasons, such as fleas, or if they happen to get extremely dirty, mud or sewage. Always use luke warm water to bath them to avoid stress. A baby shampoo may be used to bath them or specially made guinea pig shampoos. TAKE NOTE THAT GUINEA PIGS DO NOT NEED SAND BATHS.. They are not hamsters and the sand baths can cause respiratory problems and lung failure.


Though there many breeds of Guinea pig, only a few breeds are commonly found off the show table as pets. Most Guinea pigs found as pets were either found undesirable by breeders or were bred to be good companions regardless of how well they meet the breed standard of perfection. The short hair, Abyssinian, Peruvian and Sheltie (aka Silkie) breeds are those most frequently seen as pets, and the former three are the core breeds in the history of the competitive showing of Guinea pigs. In addition to their standard form, nearly all breeds come in a Satin variant. Satins, due to their hollow hair shafts, possess coats of a special gloss and shine. However, there is growing evidence that the genes responsible for the Satin coat also can cause severe bone problems, including Osteodystrophy and Paget's disease.

CLICK HERE FOR BREED & VARIETIES OF GUINEA PIGS



Agouti coloured cavies have a hair tip and root that are different colours, much like someone whose roots are showing from dyeing their hair. The root contains whatever color from the black series the pig has, and the tip has whichever color from the red series the pig has. Agouti guinea pigs have bellies the same color as the tips of their hair.
o Golden Agouti has a red tip and black root.
o Silver Agouti has a white tip and black (or grayish) root.
o There are also many dilute agouti variations with different combinations of the black series and red series.


Solid coloured cavies are much like Agoutis, but the belly is ticked as well. Solid and Agouti cavies can have patches of solid red series, but all black series hairs wind up ticked.


Self cavies have just one color of hair--black, white, cream, etc.


Broken/ Tri-colour cavies have two or three colours of hair in any combination not otherwise recognized.


Tortoiseshell cavies have patches of red and black. For show breeders, the ideal is to have an evenly checkered animal with clear, straight dividing lines between the two colors.
o Tortoiseshell and white cavies have even patches of red, black, and white.


Brindle cavies have black series and red series hairs evenly mixed throughout their coats. However, these hairs are not ticked.
o Magpie is a particular form of brindle with black for the black series and white for the red series. Magpie can be easily confused with roan, although in magpie the white hairs can appear anywhere, while roan cavies rarely have any white on their head or rear.


Dutch cavies have bands of color, generally on the cheek area and the rear, with bands of white in-between. The pattern is essentially the same as the Dutch pattern in rabbits.


Roan and Dalmatian cavies are genetically the same, but look somewhat different. Roans have white hairs evenly mixed throughout their other hairs on back and sides, while Dalmatians have spots of color on a white back and sides. Many are intermediate between the two patterns, with some spots and some mixed-in hairs. The white hairs caused by roan and dalmatian patterns are genetically different from normal white, or the white in the red series, or the white of the Himalayan pattern. Therefore, an animal could have white roan hairs mixed in with white hairs from ordinary white spotting, covering up the telltale roan markings. This is a problem because two guinea pigs who are both roan and/or dalmatian could produce deformed offspring. Hence, no guinea pig with an unknown genetic background and any white hair should be bred.


Himalayan cavies are acromelanic, just like the Siamese cat. Their noses, ears, and feet are a black series color. If a cavy with Himalayan genes has a genotype that would give them red series, or white, on their nose, ears, or feet, those hairs will be white. This could result in an entirely white animal, or one that is white with black ears, or a half-black nose. Himalayan guinea pigs are always born pure white from the heat of the mother's body, and any colored hairs develop slowly.

This post has been edited by xavi5567: Apr 6 2011, 05:57 PM

Housing your Guinea Pigs
when choosing a new home and location for your guinea pig, it is important to consider the comfort and safety of your pet. Choose a safe, quiet location that gets plenty of air circulation and where the climate can be controlled. Guinea pigs prefer to live in 60 to 75 F degree temperatures. In hotter climates where temperatures extend over 75 degrees, provide your pet with a frozen ice pack in the bottom of the cage so the pet can cool itself. In cold weather, you may want to cover the cage with a warm blanket. In addition to climate concerns, constant or sudden loud noises in the home can cause the guinea pig undue stress – find a location that allows for social interaction without all the chaos.

Your guinea pigs enclosure should be between 100 and 180 square inches of floor space – any less space causes your pet to feel cramped. The sides should be at least 10 inches tall. The enclosure should be made of easy to clean material such as wire, stainless steel, glass or thick plastic. Cages made of wood are not recommended as they are hard to keep clean and are more apt to get chewed on, eventually creating an escape route for the pet.

The ideal chart for guinea pig’s housing space:


The best type of bedding is hay – it’s great for sleeping and for snacking. Other bedding such as Fleece and recycled paper works too. Bedding should be cleaned weekly and the enclosure should be washed with hot soapy water and a non-toxic disinfectant. While other types of bedding can be used, be sure to avoid cedar wood chips. Cedar, while it smells pleasant, is actually toxic to guinea pigs and should be avoided as a choice of bedding. It has been known too that wood shavings / saw dust can lead to respiratory problems which can cause death.

C&C Cages (Cubes & Chloroplast) - This is a very popular choice of cage, its widely used in the overseas. C&C cages are very cost effective, can produce a very large play area and home for your guinea pigs, easy to clean, has good air circulation and also easy to modify or add on. Although, one of the main item (cubes) needed to make a C&C cage isn’t readily available and very hard to find here in Malaysia, Guinea Pig owners have no other option but to result to standard pet shop cages.

Here are some really nice C&C cages pix:


C&C Cages by LYN members!


Conventional and easy to find petstore cages would be a good option to house a guinea pig too. Only get these if you have no other options left. There are many to choose from, designs, colors and very wide in variety. If you decide to use one, please make sure that it’s big enough for the Guinea pig to run in. Space plays a very large important role in a guinea pig’s life, because running around would be the only form of exercise they will get. Please refer to the chart above to find the ideal size of a cage for piggies.
Samples of Petstore Cages:

Remember!! THE BIGGER THE BETTER!!


Wire bottom cages can be convenient ways to keep urine and feces out of the cages, as the waste can easily drop through the mesh onto the ground. While this may be the easy way out for some pet owners, be aware that wire cage bottoms are hard on Guinea Pig’s feet and can cause open sores, bumbblefeet as well as present the opportunity for broken legs if a leg happens to slip through and get caught. To resolve this issue, you will need to get bathroom placemats or kennel boards to avoid such mishaps.

You should always provide a box or enclosure inside the cage where your guinea pig can escape and hide. Frightened guinea pigs can behave erratically and, if they have no where to hide, may harm themselves trying to escape whatever it is that scared them.



This post has been edited by xavi5567: Jan 25 2011, 12:53 PM

A good guinea pig diet might include carrots, lettuce, apples, and sometimes some parsley or other fresh fruits and vegetables. Most fresh fruits and veggies from your kitchen are good to feed your guinea pig. Something NOT good to give your guinea pig is potato peelings or anything with potatoes in them. Potatoes poison guinea pigs and will kill them, so don’t feed your guinea pigs any potatoes! Raw beans and iceberg lettuce are also NOT good foods to give your guinea pig. Guinea pigs like to chomp down on hay and dried pellets. You can put some hay in one corner of your cage and some pellets in a food bowl in another corner of the cage. Make sure that your guinea pig gets enough water. At most pet stores you can get water bottles for guinea pigs and other rodents, too.

Guinea pigs need fresh vegetables and occasionally a little fruit. Fresh foods play an important role in your guinea pigs diet, along with unlimited quality hay, pellets and water. Fresh foods also help to make your guinea pigs diet tasty and interesting. They also contain a natural source of vitamins that your guinea pig needs, especially the all important vitamin c. The best time for a guinea pig to absorb all the proper nutrition values from these fruits and veges are by serving it to them during the evening. Vitamins are best absorbed into their body during this time ^^

Reasons why vitamin c is important
Vitamin c is especially important in a guinea pigs diet. Unlike many animals, guinea pigs can't produce their own vitamin c. A deficiency of vitamin c, could lead to scurvy and also loss of resistance to other diseases. Although good quality pellets contain vitamin c, its not an adequate amount for a guinea pig, their diet needs to be supplemented with vitamin c vegetables.

List of vegetables and fruits
Here is list of fresh foods that are suitable for guinea pigs and are very popular. Remember every guinea pig is different, some guinea pigs may like certain foods like carrots or kale, but may turn their noses up at other foods like baby tomatoes or celery. Like us humans, they all have likes and dislikes.

They should have a good variety of fresh foods, usually around 4 types of fresh food daily. We can give 2 types of vegetables in the morning and 2 in the evening, so they have something tasty to look forward to twice daily. They also occasionally may be fed with treats in the middle of the day, like a small piece of apple or a piece of refreshing cucumber. Some fresh foods are also seasonal or may just not be available to buy every week. Please take note: Remember to remove any uneaten fresh food after roughly an hour. Fresh grass especially wilts very quickly so anything your guinea pig doesn't eat straight away, take out of the cage and throwaway. Remember all fresh foods must be washed and any grass/garden plants must be pesticide free.

Popular Foods for Piggies - Explanation and portions is meant for 1 piggy.


Please also refer to the GuineaLynx Vegetable chart - http://www.guinealynx.info/diet_vegs.html

Fresh food preparation and safety
Store the vegetables of course, is meant to be kept in the fridge. Leave any vege out of the fridge for a little while, before serving. Guinea pigs can have an upset tummy and diarrhoea, if they eat fresh food that is too cold. Never give vegetables from the freezer. Disregard any food that is going slightly brown/yellow or is wilting. Feeding food that isn't fresh could also upset their tummy and give them diarrhoea. Remember to remove seeds or pips from bell peppers, large tomatos, apples etc. I limit my guinea pigs fruits and just give fruit as an occasional treat, as they are high in sugar. Also, remember to cut celery up into small pieces as its stringy and could make piggy choke.

Always wash any fresh food first, you don't have to shake the excess water out, its an ideal way to give your guinea pig extra water. Use a clean work surface and a clean knife for cutting up the vegetables and fruit. Any uneaten fresh food, needs to be disregarded after a couple of hours, less time in warm weather.

Introducing a new food
Guinea pigs have a sensitive digestive system and its easily upset, so always introduce any new food slowly. Just give them a very small piece and if they like it, just keep increasing the amount a little for the next serving. If they turn their noses up at the new food, don't give up at the first hurdle, just keep trying. Sometimes, guinea pigs will follow their cage mates lead and try a new food, only when they see their cage mate tucking in. Sometimes though, guinea pigs will just refuse to eat the new food, even after a whole week of trying.

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Pellets & Hay!!


HOW TO RECOGNIZE QUALITY PELLETS
Many pet owners provide a pelleted feed for their guinea pig. Combined with other quality foods, this can be a convenient way to ensure your guinea pig is getting necessary nutrients. Be sure to choose a top quality pellet to promote the good health of your pet.

NOTE: Pellets are not a substitute for hay!
Be sure to provide high quality grass hay 24/7 for all your guinea pigs.

Select a pellet based on freshness, quality control, and especially on ingredient quality. Here are a few good pellets that i would recommend:
- Oxbow Cavy Cuisine
- Sluis Guinea Pig Course

Ingredients to AVOID in cavy pellets:
- Animal products (including but not limited to animal fat, meat, tallow, animal digest, sterols, bone meal, and eggs)
- Beet pulp (controversial even with dogs and cats. Considered low-quality fiber that can clog the villi of the intestine. Common in all animal feed since it is a byproduct of many human products.)
- Corn products (including corn bran, corn germ, corn gluten, ground corn, etc. There is no legal definition of "corn" alone in animal feed, so it may be any combination of products. Corn is not a normal feed for cavies, may contribute to allergies, and can be high in fat and certain sugars/starch depending on the product. Additionally, some corn is contaminated with deadly aflatoxin which can cause liver failure and death.)
- Seeds, Nuts, or Oils (too high in fat and protein, not a natural food source, often present in animal feeds in seed byproducts that have little to no nutrient value)
- Rice Bran or Rice Flour (more byproducts, no nutrient value in forms defined by the AAFCO)
- Vegetable Fiber (any and every byproduct, can include sawdust)

Sweeteners, Colorings, and Preservatives to avoid:
- Corn syrup
- High fructose corn syrup (HFCS)
- Sucrose
- Propylene glycol (causes premature RBC death)
- Food colorings (include FD&C reds, blues, and yellows)
- Propyl gallate
- Potassium sorbate
- Sodium nitrate, sodium nitrite, or sodium metabisulfate
- Ethoxyquin
- Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)/Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT)

Find more information at www.mihog.org/diet/foodingred.phtml

Alfalfa vs. Timothy: Most cavy pellets are alfalfa based. Alfalfa pellets are suitable for young, growing and pregnant cavies. After your cavy is about a year old and fully developed, a timothy based pellet, which provides less calcium, may be a good choice. Be sure to select a pellet specifically formulated with Vitamin C for guinea pigs. Choose a plain pellet: avoid mixes with nuts, seeds, dried fruit and dyed pieces. Seeds in husks can be a choking hazard. Each cavy will eat approximately 1/8 cup of pellets a day when also fed adequate hay and fresh vegetables. Purchase pellets in small quantities and store in a dry cool dark place to preserve the potency of the C (look for a pellet with an expiration date to check for freshness).

Forages~

Forages Can Be An Important Part Of Your Guinea Pig's Diet


A diet that includes grass and other fresh forages can improve the health of your cavy. Grass is especially important, as it is the back bone of every guinea pig's diet. In most cases, the grass your pet eats will be dried (hay) or pelleted (Cavy Cuisine) but fresh grass can be even more valuable, as it also provides vitamin C. Serve your pig some forages today!

Foraged foods can add interest to the typical cavy diet and provide vitamin C, minerals and nutrients. Pet owners offering weeds and grasses from their yard, garden, or a nearby field must select food carefully.

Identification. Make sure you know what you are offering your pet. Condition. Consider where you collect your plants:
- Avoid areas that have been treated with herbicides and pesticides.
- Avoid areas heavily frequented by dogs or livestock whose feces may contaminate the plants.
- Avoid plants that have molds, fungus, or mildews.
- Avoid plants growing along side of heavily trafficked roads.
- Remember that the younger plants are often more nutritious and tasty. As the plants age and go to seed, nutrients are diverted to seed production and the leafy part of the plant has less nutritional value. As some species of plants age, oxalic acid increases and they become more bitter.

Quantity. Most people will introduce items slowly, gradually increasing the amount offered their pet. Grasses make up the bulk of the food provided, supplemented by clovers and other weeds. During the winter it may be more difficult to forage for plants.

Take Note!!~ A story to be shared.. by silverwineus


This post has been edited by xavi5567: Jan 25 2011, 12:54 PM

Sounds A Guinea Pig Makes

Guinea pigs have a large vocabulary and it can really help you, and your guinea pig if you have a better understanding of what your guinea pig is saying. Here are a few descriptions and sound recordings of noises a guinea pig can make. Many people come up with all kinds of different names to describe a guinea pig sound, chut, chubble, wheeeek, rumble are just a few, but I'm sure once you hear the noise and read the description of why piggy is making the noise, you will soon get to recognise what your guinea pig is saying. Remember some sounds can have more than one meaning or sound similar but you can usually tell the differences as their body language plays a large part in how guinea pigs communicate with us or with each other.

Wheeking
Wheeking is aimed at us humans, 'feed me now please'. I have regular times when I feed my piggies fresh veggies, early morning and evening, so they tend to be at their loudest at those times. If its veggie time, I only have to pass their cage and they tell me 'where are you going?, its feeding time mum'. If they hear anything that sounds suspiciously like food might be coming, they will also start a chorus of wheeks. Even closing the back door signals some lovely fresh grass might be on its way or opening the fridge door.

Rumble
A rumble, which sounds like a purring sound, happens usually when a male piggy is romancing another guinea pig. A female can also make this sound if she is in season. A rumble sounds deeper than a purr with a vibrating effect. While making this sound a guinea pig will sway their hips and walk around another guinea pig. This is known as the mating dance, other terms used are motorboating or rumble strutting.

Purring
A purring guinea pig is experiencing enjoyment/pleasure. You may hear this sound if you are petting your guinea pig. Purring does sound like a rumble (mating noise). A purr can actually have more than one meaning. If it happens very suddenly, and you aren't petting your piggy, then this purr will sound much shorter and they will suddenly stand still like a statue (freeze). This shorter purr is often described as a 'durr' sound. Its because they have heard a sound like the telephone ringing or a knock on the door and they are afraid of this sudden strange noise. They may just make this noise once or repeat the noise, depending on if the 'threat' has gone away. Some guinea pigs will also make this short sound when they are given a veggie treat. In her excitement my Sweetpea does this nearly every time I offer her vegetables.

Shrieking
Shrieking sounds like a very sharp, high pitched wheek and it means your guinea pig has suffered pain or they may be very afraid. You may hear this sound if a guinea pig has nipped a cage mate or you may hear several shrieks if your vet has given an injection. I remember one visit to the vets, when all my piggies needed mite treatment via injections. Poor Squeekie seemed to always be affected more by an injection as he screamed out so much. I could hear other pet owners in the waiting room going awww. Poor little Squeekie, after a few cuddles from his mum, he was fine. Thankfully, if my piggies ever need mite treatment, they have oral ivomectin, so they'll be having no more mite injections.

Guinea pigs can also shriek as a warning to another guinea pig, telling them to 'keep away' if they are showing aggression. As far as I know, a defensive shriek is not made out of aggression, its because the shrieking guinea pig is afraid, panicking and just wants to be left alone and certainly doesn't want to have a confrontation with the other guinea pig. My Peachy normally hates any kind of hostility from another guinea pig, especially from a guinea pig who isn't part of her herd. Peachy normally just runs off to the furthest corner, hoping nobody will notice her. If she's pursued, she will constantly cry out in the hope that the other guinea pig will back off. If its just Jake romancing her, then she will just have a moan at him smile.gif

Shrieking can also mean an alarm call. Young guinea pigs calling to their mother or a piggy calling to a cage mate. This can happen if a guinea pigs cage mate is out of the cage or they have been seperated for whatever reason.

Chut/Chubble/Mutter
This is a hard noise to describe, but hopefully by explaining what my guinea pigs do while making this noise, it will hopefully help you identify this sound. When your guinea pigs are out and about, you'll notice they will be happily walking around on the floor, going about their business and this is when they may make a repeated chut sound. It really sounds as though they are muttering to themselves. It means they are relaxed and contented. My Peachy also makes this noise while I'm petting her, accompanied by little purrs in-between, which means she is very happy. As soon as I lift her up and start petting her, she will make this sound, quickly followed by looking at me and giving me a guinea pig kiss smile.gif

Whining
I like to say whining to describe this sound, or you could say moaning/complaining. Its usually heard when a guinea pig is resting and if disturbed by another piggy in the cage, they let their feelings known by moaning at them. It starts off fairly quiet, but will increase in volume if the intruding guinea pig doesn't get the message. My Jasmine likes to complain sometimes. Sweetpea or Jake don't even have to touch her, they could just be tugging at some hay that happens to be close by, Jasmine will then start having a moan. If she's feeling a bit too stroppy she will chin them out of the way or give a little back kick. Its never serious and no fights ever break out, she's just telling them to leave her alone. Peachy and Squeekie also like to moan a bit, especially Squeekie when he wants to be under his mountain of hay by himself.

Guinea pigs will also have a moan at us humans if they don't like what we are doing. Clover dislikes being petted anywhere passed her waist. She will also grumble when she's wanting a wee, its just Clover's way of telling me "I need the bathroom mum".

Teeth Chattering
A guinea pig that starts teeth chattering is an upset/angry guinea pig. If a piggy is heard doing this to another piggy, it means they are agitated and are warning the other guinea pig to keep away. Often guinea pigs that are first introduced to each other will start teeth chattering. When two boars meet for the first time, they may chatter at each other, trying to sort out their position in the hierarchy. It can also happen with sows when they first meet. If teeth chattering increases, the fur around their necks may become raised to make them seem larger. They may also stamp their feet from side to side making themselves rock, looking very stiff with their movements. This isn't the same as a guinea pig rumble strutting, this type of behaviour is aggressive behaviour. If you see your guinea pigs doing this to each other, its best to separate them before they fly at each other, just remember to watch your hands. Place a towel over them to confuse them, then you can separate them.

If a guinea pig chatters at you, they are also telling you to keep your distance. Because my Jasmine doesn't like to be picked up, on a rare occasion she will even chatter at me. She's never bitten me though, she just hates being lifted up, once in my arms she's a very happy piggy.

Chirping
A rare sound made by some guinea pigs. I have only ever had the good fortune to hear and see my Sweetpea making this sound. I was in another room and suddenly heard what sounded like a bird singing. I even thought a bird may have flown through an open window by accident. When I came to investigate, there was Sweetpea, with her head held high, chirping like a bird. Her little lips were going in and out as though she was whistling a tune. All my other piggies were very still and quiet, as though they were listening to Sweetpea singing. I was so chuffed to witness one of my guinea pigs making this sound, it lasted about 30 seconds. Nothing unusual was happening, so I don't know why she was making this lovely sound. Sweetpea seemed to be in a world of her own at the time. Even when I approched her she continued to chirp for a few more seconds. When she stopped, she went straight to her food bowl, as though nothing had happened.

Here is a chart provided by the previous TS (Sharil_Routh) explaining some of the sounds and behavior:



This post has been edited by xavi5567: Jan 25 2011, 12:56 PM

Parasites, Health Hazards & Diseases
Just like any other animal, Guinea pigs do get sick too. Here are some common mistakes one will make and resulting the death of their piggies:

1. Dismissing medical signs as non-medical.
2. Waiting to see a vet.
3. Seeing a non-exotics vet or a vet doesn't know how to treat guinea pigs.
4. Accepting veterinary diagnosis/treatment without question or research.
5. Failure to get proper diagnostic procedures done.
6. Mistaking secondary signs of illness as the primary cause.
7. Mistakes with medications -- wrong medication or insufficient dosage or duration.

NOTE: Be sure your cavy is not prescribed DANGEROUS MEDICATIONS. Especially if your vet is not experienced with guinea pigs.

URI (Upper Respiratory Infections)
1. Dismissing signs as allergies. The result is worsening of the illness and increased danger to the pig.
2. Neglecting to get antibiotics. Bacteria flourish and the illness progresses.
3. Wrong antibiotic. Even some exotic vets only treat cavies with Baytril. But not all bacteria are sensitive to this antibiotic.
4. Not considering a heart condition as the culprit. In cavies a heart condition may appear in the form of repeated URIs that do not respond to antibiotics.
5. Not making use of other drugs besides antibiotics. A severe URI can lead to pneumonia. In severe cases diuretics, bronchodilators, or even oxygen may be required to save the guinea pig.

Urinary Tract Problems
1. Neglecting to treat signs of a stone as an urgent situation. Many guinea pigs have died from urinary blockage.
2. Dismissing squeaking while pooping or attributing this as something not related to bladder problems. It almost always is.
3. Not getting X-rays to rule out stones when bladder problems are suspected.
4. Opting for non-surgical treatments for bladder stones (such as using injections or hoping that a stone will pass). Passing a bladder stone is rare, especially for boars.
5. Not giving intensive postoperative care to guinea pigs who have had a stone removed. Swelling after surgery can cause urinary blockage. Some problems with the genitourinary tract may affect the G.I. system, causing bloat, diarrhea, or other conditions that need immediate treatment.

Not Eating
1. Waiting to hand feed. Waiting even 24 hours can spell disaster for a guinea pig’s GI tract.
2. Not hand feeding often enough or at all -- if you are going to save the pig you need to give it your full effort, around the clock.
3. Not feeding appropriate supplements. Baby food and pureed vegetables lack the fiber of critical care or pellet mash. The result may be bloat.
4. Not weighing the pig. Without a scale you won't notice weight loss until it is too late.
5. Neglecting to hydrate the pig, as well as hand feed. GI stasis needs hydration to correct itself.

Hair Loss
1. Dismissing parasites because they are not visible to the naked eye.
2. Treating with sprays, dips, or shampoos, instead of ivermectin or other Avermectin compounds -- the only known medication to properly treat guinea pig mites.
3. Improper dosing of Ivermectin by not giving at least 3 doses or by using inaccurate methods such as the "just a few drops" method or "toothpick" method with paste.
4. Not treating all pigs in the household, regardless of contact.
5. Relying on skin scrapings for diagnosis. They often give false negatives.

Teeth Problems
1. Not getting the molars examined. Teeth problems in guinea pigs almost always originate with the molars.
2. Not using the proper tools -- Namely, buccal pad separators, to examine the molars properly.
3. Trimming the incisors but not the molars. Especially with Resco nail trimmers, a common veterinary tool but one that can do significant damage to cavy teeth.
4. No x-rays. This is a good way to miss an underlying problem in the jaw.
5. Not thinking teeth first! Often a guinea pig will waste away while even a good exotics vet looks for other causes. The resulting weight loss can be fatal.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Parasites:
Guinea pigs will occasionally scratch themselves, but repeated scratching may indicate your pet has mites and/or lice, especially if accompanied by hair loss and "dandruff". The most common of these parasites will only be found on guinea pigs and are species specific, meaning they cannot be transmitted to people or other species of animal. And the most common parasite by far is the MANGE MITE. This microscopic mite causes excruciating pain. Treat promptly with ivermectin!

Mange
Mange is a common parasitic disease that affects the skin of guinea pigs. This parasite can cause skin irritations and hair loss in large clumps on the back of the guinea pigs. If you suspect your pet is afflicted with mange, it is best to pay a visit to your veterinarian for further examination. While mange is treatable, an illness involving hair loss could indicate further problems, either internal or external.

Ringworm
Ringworm is a skin parasite that can cause skin irritation and hair loss around the head, neck and nose of the guinea pig. This parasite generally infects young guinea pigs and is transferable from one guinea pig to another and can be transferred from the pet to its owner. Always use caution when handling guinea pigs that you suspect may have contracted ringworm and always wash your hands before and after handling your pet. To treat ringworm, take your guinea pig to your veterinarian – ringworm is typically treated by either topical or oral medication

Lice
Lice is a skin parasite that lives by biting and sucking blood from the guinea pig – they are generally found attached to the hair follicles. Lice can cause sores, hair loss and severe skin irritation and itching. If you suspect your pet has lice, use caution when handling your pet as lice can be transferred from pet to human. Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet. Lice is generally treated by a medicated shampoo. Before beginning treatments, always consult with your veterinarian.

Ciccodioses
Ciccodioses is a liver and intestinal disease caused by a single celled parasite. Guinea Pigs typically contract this disease by consuming food or water that has been contaminated with feces. Physical response to this type of disease depends on a number of factors and can be manifest in a number of ways. Guinea pigs infected with ciccodia can experience blood in the feces and diarrhea, and become dehydrated and experience weight loss. Pet owners should seek the help of a veterinarian to treat this illness.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Diseases
Scurvy (Vitamin C Deficiency)
Guinea pigs bodies do not produce vitamin C and therefore must consume an adequate supply of it from fresh fruits and vegetables and meal supplements. Vitamin C deficiency can cause scurvy, causing lethargy, weak and disfigured bone and teeth development, swollen joints, reluctance to move, and spontaneous bleeding from the gums. Guinea pigs that are experiencing these symptoms should be seen by a veterinarian. Scurvy can be reverse through diet changes or vitamin C injections. Pet owners choosing to supplement the diet with pellets loaded with vitamin C should be sure to keep the pellets in a cool, dry, dark place as vitamin C will deteriorate if left in direct sunlight or prolonged heat.

Hair Loss
Hair loss in guinea pigs occurs at various times in the guinea pig’s life cycle. Breeding females and weaning infants may experience hairloss – over time the hair will return on its own. Additionally, as young guinea pigs mature and establish their place in the breed’s pecking order, more dominant guinea pigs may chew off the hair of the less aggressive guinea pigs in the litter. Hair can also be lost because of fungal disease and external parasite infestations.

Cancer
Cancer is rare among guinea pigs – typically only older guinea pigs are affected. Most tumors are benign and involve the skin and respiratory tract lining. Cancer may also affect the reproductive tract, mammary glands (breasts) and blood (leukemia).

Pneumonia
The most common bacterial diseases in pet guinea pigs is Pneumonia. Pneumonia is caused by bacteria that inhabit the respiratory tracts of guinea pigs. This disease is generally caused by stress, inadequate diet, and improper care. When a guinea pig contracts pneumonia they may experience labored or rapid breathing, fluid from eyes and nostrils, laying down, rolling, a lack of desire to eat and lethargy. If you suspect your guinea pig has pneumonia, contact a veterinarian immediately as death can occur suddenly. Treatments include antibiotic injection and rest. It is important to note that the most common pneumonia causing bacteria in guinea pigs is natural flora for rabbits and rats – if rabbits and rats are kept as pets in the same home, they must be kept away from each other.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Health Hazards
Taking your guinea pig to the vet is not something that is really necessary. It is a good precaution to ensure that your guinea pig will be in the best shape, but it is not required. If you do decide to take your guinea pig to the vet, pick a time each year when it would be convenient for you to go and when the guinea pig/small animal vet is available. So then you would be getting your piggie checked yearly.

Illnesses from improper nutrition:


Fur / Hair Loss
FUR LOSS: A guinea pig that is losing fur probably has an inadequate diet. Guinea pigs need a variety of vitamins and minerals in their diet and if they don’t get those things, they tend to get sick. Depending on the material, deprivation could cause minor to severe illnesses. In the case of fur loss, it is only minor, for the time being. Most likely, the problem is that you are feeding your guinea pig improperly (not enough of a certain food, possibly too much of another), and the solution is quite simple… All you need to do is make a list of the veggies and fruits that you feed your guinea pig. Then, see what else you need to feed him/her; find the foods that are needed in their diet that they don't have at the moment.

BARE ANKLES: A guinea pig with bare “ankles” is quite normal. The fur, apparently, does not grow around the ankle. This is nothing to be concerned about as this is very common among guinea pigs.

Internal Illnesses
- Symptoms: shortness of breath, diarrhea, fever, guinea pig is unable to move
- What you SHOULD do: take pet to vet as soon as possible
- What you SHOULD NOT do: try to cure the guinea pig on your own. This could just damage the guinea pig even more and put it in a worse situation than it is already in.
- Mostly likely treatments: of course, the veterinarian will administer some sort of medication if he/she thinks that the guinea pig has a chance of recovering. In this case, antibiotics administered through the mouth will probably be given a couple times throughout the day. Make sure you explicitly follow the instructions from the vet!

Diarrhea
* Why? The most likely cause of diarrhea in a guinea pig is because it has eaten spoiled or rotten food.
* What will help? thin black tea, grated apples, hay
* Is there anything else I should do? If the diarrhea continues, take the guinea pig and sample of the guinea pigs feces to the vet to be examined. This is because there could be parasites in the guinea pigs intestines that need to be taken care of.

Colds
- Symptoms: lethargic, ruffled coat, sneezing, coughing, runny nose, diarrhea
- Why? Your guinea pig probably has a cold because it was left in a draft from the air conditioning in your house or from a fan. Colds can also result from cool/cold temperatures or damp conditions (i.e. if guinea pig lived outside on wet grass, or if cage hadn't been thoroughly cleaned of urine). The infections can either be viral or bacterial.
- What you should do: take the guinea pig to a vet immediately.
- Most likely treatments: antibiotics given in the form of injections or through the mouth with small tube-like syringes.

Intestinal Parasites
- Types of Parasites: tapeworms, roundworms, pinworms
- Symptoms: diarrhea, anemia, weight loss, worms or worm-like parasites in your guinea pig's feces
- What to do: take your guinea pig to a veterinarian.
- Note: parasites like these are found more in guinea pigs that are kept outdoors than those that are kept indoors.

Lice and Fleas
- About LICE: Guinea pigs can get lice just like humans. It's not rare. In fact, I have had that unfortunate incident. Lice look like tiny, thin, long bugs. They don't hop or jump. They crawl around throughout the guinea pig's fur and close to the skin. They irritate the guinea pig and make it very uncomfortable. Please groom your guinea pig with a small brush or an old toothbrush every week, and check through thier fur to make sure that it doesn't have anything that's not supposed to be there.
- Symptoms: Guinea pig scratching furiously, bare spots or patches through fur, small thin yellow-white bugs crawling through fur, tiny insects that hop around on guinea pig
- Possible Treatments: flea/tick/lice spray available at pet stores, give guinea pig a bath, brush with a clean toothbrush, take to a vet.
- NOTE: Guinea pigs cannot give their lice to humans, as they each get different types. However, guinea pigs CAN give their lice to other guinea pigs, so if one of your piggies has lice, it would be best to separate him/her from the others until all of the lice is gone, to reduce the risk of transferring the lice from one guinea pig to another.

This post has been edited by xavi5567: Jan 25 2011, 01:01 PM

Guinea Pig Resources & Links

Useful Guinea Pig Reading Materials:
- Jackies's Guinea Pigs
- Treen's Pigs
- Cavispirit
- Cavies.info
- GuineaLynx
- Cutie Cavies
- Kornage.co.uk
- The Cavy Clan

Older Guinea Pig Corner Threads:
- Version 7
- Version 6
- Version 4
- Version 3
- Version 2
- Version 1
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Shops that carry a variety of Guinea Pig Items in general:

- Pets lovers centres
http://www.petloverscentre.com.my/location.html

- Pets Family
Lot 10991, Jalan SS24/8, Taman Megah, 47301 Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 03 7805 2342 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 03 7805 2342 end_of_the_skype_highlighting, Fax: 03 7804 1057

- Pet Safari
Ikano Power Centre Damansara,
Jalan PJU 7-2 Mutiara Damansara,
47800, Petaling Jaya.

- Pet Shack
102, Block A, Mentari Business Park
Jalan PJS 8/2, Bandar Sunway,
46150 Petaling Jaya
Tel : 03-5637 4536
http://www.petshack.com.my

- Petsmore
Jalan Sultan (Opposite UdaOcean)
Tel : 03-2078 6449

Kepong Metro Perdana (Opposite Jusco)
Tel : 03-6257 6449

OUG (Behind Plaza OUG Parkson)
Tel : 03-7980 4780

Carrefour Kepong
Tel : 03-6259 5449

Queen's Park Cheras (Jalan Peel)
03-9205 6449

SS15 Subang Jaya
Tel : 03-5637 6815

Kepong Desa Park City
Tel : 03-6280 8449
http://www.petsmore.com.my
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Recommended Vet:

Dr Yeoh Eng Cheong
YEOH VETERINARY CLINIC & SURGERY
126, Jln SS 24/2, Tmn Megah, 47301 PJ, Selangor
Tel: 03-78048684
Fax: 03-78052350
Operating Hours: Mon - Fri (10am-1pm & 4pm-8pm)
Sat (9.30am-5pm)
Sun (9.30am-1pm)
Public Holiday (Closed by notice)
Call before you go to make an appointment. He is well known to treat Guinea Pigs as well.

This post has been edited by xavi5567: Jan 25 2011, 01:10 PM

I WANT A GUINEA PIG! ((A new owner checklist))

THIS IS IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ BEFORE CONSIDERING OWNING A GUINEA PIG.
Please take note that you will need to prepare the proper necessities before owning a guinea pig. Also take note that PETS MAKE THE WORST KIND OF GIFT/PRESENT for a loved one, because they will not be furnished with the proper information on how to care for the pets.

Necessities include:
1. Cage (budget: RM 100) - Please get a rather large one. At least 2ft x 1ft if you can't afford any bigger. GPs grow pretty big, about 27 cm in length (for males) if given the right nutrition so they need ample space. Buy those cage with bars on top but without bard at the feet area. Can cause bumblefeet if they keep stepping on the rails. GPs need proper ventilation or they might get heat stroke.

2. Food bowl (budget: RM10) - Please get a ceramic bowl that can't be toupled over by your GP. Consider his head size so he can comfrtably fit his head into the bowl as he grows larger.

3. Water bottle (budget: RM10) - Get those like Living World bottle lar. Don't ever put water in a bowl as ulternative because stuff may get in the water and foul it, and if ur GP drink it it will become unhealthy. Make sure you get a bottle that fits the size of how much your GP drinks daily.
4. Food (budget: RM 20) - Please buy brands with enhanced Vitamin C. Don't buy those with seeds in it because it will poke and hurt your GP's mouth and throat.

5. Hay (budget: RM 25) - Hay is VERY important. It helps with your GP's digestion and keep their ever-growing teeth in their proper size. Babies should be given alfafa hay for the extra calcium content. Seem adults should start eating timothy hay, which suits their requirements more than alfafa, although alfafa hay can still be given as a treat.

6. Bedding (budget: RM 25) - You can use common wood shavings you can find in the store but please stay away from pine or anything scented as it is very bad for your GP.

7. Nail Clipper (budget: RM20) - You can get the clipper for small animals or small dogs. You can use the human nail clipper but using the animal clipper is so much easier. Please read up on how to clip their nails. Clipping into the quick can cause bleeding and discomfort for your GP.

Additional:
1. Chew toy in a form of a hay house or salt stones.
2. Hide house: For them to feel safe. It helps them to feel that they are protected.
3. Comb : GPs shed. So a comb is the proper thing to buy. For long hairs like Sheltie and Peruvian, you must comb daily or it will matt up. For short hairs like American Satin(or the Normal) and Abbysinian, You don't have to comb daily but doing so reduces shedding.
4. Vitamin C - You can get those vitamin C pills like chewies for your GP. GPs are like us in the sense that they do not make their own vitamin C, so they have to get it through their food intake everyday. A good example is LC-Vit Forte.

Other Additional information:
1. Please offer vegetables everyday. You can google for Veges high in Vitamin C.
2. GPs are herbivorous. Please don't offer meat.
3. Having contact daily wth your GP creates trust. Then they will want your company.
4. GPs like living in groups. But there are some exceptions that don't mix well with others
5. If you've decided to buy a friend for your GP, please be sure that they are the same sex. Or your GPs will breed non stop, which is bad for the mummy GP. To prevent inbreeding, please don't buy 2 from the same store (if you insist to breed them, please read up).
6. Please buy from a home breeder if possible. Some petshop GPs are frequently underaged and underaged Gps might develop problems when growing into adults.
7. Please supervise when your GP has flooring time with other pets. Dogs may be vicious to it, etc etc.
8. GPs can be toilet trained! Then all you have to do is empty the toilet daily while most of the bedding remains clean! GPs are quite intelligent so toilet training is quite easy!

This post has been edited by xavi5567: Jan 25 2011, 01:11 PM

LYN GUINEA PIG OWNERS!!

SugarCoatedCandy
Saphira ~ Abby
Bugsy ~ Abby
-==========-
Emino
Leona ~ American Shorthair
Pikachu ~ Abby
Lamb ~ Rex
-==========-
n3sbaby
Cody ~ Sheltie mix Abby
-==========-
Xiawa
XiaoMian ~Sheltie mix Abby
Huahua ~ Abby
-==========-
Chubbyagel
Bugsy ~ Shorthair
Bubble ~ Shorthair
-==========-
scorpgal
Gucci ~ American Satin Shorthair
Prada ~ Abby
-==========-
kaoru himura
Yui Yurihiko ~ Shorthair
Narwhal (Nao) ~ Abby
Cyndyquil ~ Shorthair
Shiki ~ Abby
-==========-
JackLene
T-Rex ~ Rex mixed
Mommy ~ Abbyssinian
Curly ~ Abbyssinian
SiLky ~ Short hair
Sunny ~ Abbyssinian
Cotton ~ Abbysinian
MiLky aka Roti ~ Mixed
Elvis ~ Peruvian
-==========-
Kamaliah
Dora Bella ~ Abby
-==========-
katannaz
along ~ Abby
angah ~ Abby
lily ~ Abby
loly ~ Abby
Koko ~ Abby
Didi ~ Short hair
-==========-
chabbywabbit
Nubby Wabbit ~ American Shorthair
Babby Wabbit ~ Shorthair
-==========-
hitz
Blackie ~ Shorthair
Fluffy ~ Abby
-==========-
Juztiny
Lao-Tak ~ Sheltie
Man ~ Abby
Mommy ~ Sheltie
Lao-Er ~ Sheltie
Gwen ~ Sheltie
Gucci ~ Sheltie
Gay ~ Peruvian
Latte ~ Abby
Ebony ~ Abby
Ivory ~ Peruvian
Guess ~ Abby
Gloria ~ Abby
-==========-
carolhyf
Jingle ~ Short hair mix Abby
Jasper ~ Sheltie
Choco ~ Sheltie mix abby
Snowy ~ Sheltie mix abby
-==========-
aznie
Bugsy ~ Short hair
Alvin ~ short hair
-==========-
FeonFeon
Lisa ~ Abby
Ninii ~ Abby
Spooky ~ Abby
-==========-
reveur
Lolo ~ Abby
Coco ~ Abby
Loco ~ Short Hair
Roco ~ Short Hair
-==========-
east_wing
Caspian ~ Short Hair
Jane ~ Abby
Eric ~ Abby
Mary ~ Abby
-==========-
Mr.Hikano
Eriko ~ Abby
Mimiko ~ Abby
-==========-
afiqheafy
Kellebelle ~ Abbyssinian
Maddox ~ Abbyssinian
Khloe ~ Abbyssinian
Gloria ~ American Shorthair
-==========-
YuSa_chan
Lola ~ Abbyssinian
-==========-
soekma88
Bella ~ Peruvian
-==========-
hermozo09
Babak ~ Abbyssinian
-==========-
xavi5567
Teddy ~ Abbyssinian
Choco ~ sheltie
-==========-
7giap
piEPie ~ Abbyssinian
-==========-
Abie.C
Happy ~ Coronet
-==========-
SweetCat & WhiteMouse
HangHang~ Abbyssinian
-==========-
asylum9394
brown brown~ ShortHair american
-==========-
Crystele
Yuki ~ Peruvian
-==========-
Exeter
Paris ~ Sheltie
Gipo ~ Sheltie
Tiger ~ Sheltie
Ben ~ Peruvian
Rocky ~ Peruvian
Bonnie ~ Abbyssinian
Max ~ Coronet
-==========-
sweetie wawa
Suha ~ American
Chloe ~ American
Milo ~ Abbyssinian
-==========-
TobbyChan
Toffy ~ Abbyssinian
Minnie ~ Abbyssinian - Agouti
-==========-
lionelalexander
Bacon ~ Peruvian
Omelette ~ American
-==========-
CutiePie69
Timi ~ Abbyssinian
Mimi ~ American
-==========-
orion18
mushi ~ Abbyssinian
aiko ~ Abbyssinian
michelle ~ American
bulat ~ American
-==========-
Starblazex
Kookie ~ Abbyssinian
Eek ~ American
-==========-
xacrifizer
Kenzie ~ American
Kimchi ~ Crested
-==========-
alexandra1022
princess ~ Abby-American Mix

-- PM me your piggies details so i can update this list ^^

This post has been edited by xavi5567: Dec 25 2011, 03:56 PM

Bathing Your little Piggy


COMING soon


This post has been edited by xavi5567: Jan 29 2011, 01:14 AM

COMING SOON



Lowyat.net Forum- Guinea Pig Corner 1st Gathering

Date: postpone to another agree date
Venue: undecided, pls suggest and vote
Time: Yet to be decided (morning or evening) i m hoping for evening lol..
Activities: Photo session, Pet grooming, diet and care advice, meet up and experience sharing.etc (subjected to demand)
- who should join: guinea pig owner, guinea pig owner wannabe, x guinea pig owner. lol.. the more the merrier i think lol..

This post has been edited by xavi5567: Apr 6 2011, 05:59 PM

waaaaaa..so fast meh new topic?

yea.. the previos post almost hit 2500 liao.. so i prepare the new thread 1st.. do give suggestion to further improve.. if any 1 have input pls pm me.. i will add it on later..
any product review u like to share also pls pm me... i will be doing some product review on the current brands of pellet and hay i m using (APD, oxbow, Zupreem, and kaytee).. so any1 felt he/she have input pls contribute ya.. thx ..

Here are my Peruvian babies at 1 month old.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Wooo... V8!

Product reviews based on owner experience must include a little background on their GPs for easier reference

congrats for the new thread

congrats for new thread!

support support!~~~

YAY! congrats on new thread!

please add me into the list too...

Kookie-Abby
Eek-Shorthair


thanks

Hi...

Just like to find out anyone here does C&C cages for GP's?
If so, I would like to get a custom cage done for my babies as the current cage is too small for them.
I know it looks easy to do but I am not good at 'D.I.Y.'

i can custom 1.. u jus need to buy me all the stuff needed.. and it is up to u wanting daiso cubes or bbq grill . the later is cheaper option (difference is rm2.1).. wat type of caging u prefer? tray system or coroplast bottom. ? close top or open top? how big u wan it? how many piggies? wat u currently have? (toilet, food bowl, small hut, etc.. )
once i got the rough idea i may help out with ur design..

Wah...! Thank you so much!
Currently I only have two GP's who are living inside a zoo zone which has grown a little bit small for them.
Inside the zoo zone I have one little hut, one toilet and food bowl all inside and its too small for my little (no longer little) GP's.
I like the daiso cubes ones and prefer to have a close top or else my cats would be jumping in and play with my GP's.
Mmmm what size would you recommend for them.
Since I am living in an apartment, I prefer the cage not too big but just comfortable for Timi and Mimi.
I think a coroplast bottom would be ideal as I am using recycled paper pellets for them.
Btw... how does a tray system look like?
Something you can pull out and clean is it?
Thank you so much for your offer to design and make.
Please let me know how much you will be charging too.
But I definitely want one for my babies.

there two type of cubes at daiso.. square or rectangular.. if not mistaken square is abit higher .. but if u wanna save plus u wan close top (require more cube) i suggest just take the rectangular 1.. ( 10 pieces rm 50 liao) which will give u a 1 by 2 cube cage which 4 cube on top..coroplast roughly bout rm50 oso.. estimate cost rm100 plus plus..
design is something like this.. very simple only all tie up together using cable tie..



Attached thumbnail(s)

Wow...v8

Wow.... I am already excited.
So I will get the stuff from Daiso but can only do this after CNY la...
Now so busy as going back to kampung lor.....
You must also be busy cause want to celebrate CNY too....
Just let me know what stuff to get like cubes, cable ties
But where to get coroplast?
Any other items?
Timi and Mimi would be soooooo happy to get a new bungalow.
Now they are squatting

Wow!!! V8 ... tats fast!

Wish have bigger space for them...

Hi, greetings!

items needed,
-cubes (if square 16 pieces) (if rectangular 10 pieces) but i not very sure with the dimension of the cubes.. if able to wait.. i will check out the dimension of the rectangular 1st.. might need less..
-cable ties( available at daiso also rm5 for 150 pcs)
-coroplast ( depend on u .. if u dont mind joined pcs.. then can get it from stationary shop.. if u wan whole pieces 1.. need to find at advertising shop.. will try to source this c..)
tat all..

---

Added on January 25, 2011, 11:12 pmcute.. look like having blue eyes..

This post has been edited by xavi5567: Jan 25 2011, 11:12 PM

WOW VERSION 8 in only few months time!

_ _ _ _ _


some new photos of new born "Baby ABBYRUVIANS" sheby mini yaks

ABBYRUVIAN626"flowerball"


ABBYRUVIAN899"snowshoe"

For link code, can copy here: < http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1512142 >
photos taken less than 3 weeks old.

1st-generation 'hybrid' Abbyruvians of pure bred pure blooded parents.


Last 5 ekors (only got 20 pax January 2011 - rest ALL HABIS)

- those interested can PM with your own "offer price" for inviting your own piggies home. Before / around Chinese New Year Rabbit year starts.

Note:
Extremely human friendly personalities and each and everyone of them whistles on high pitch and can do so loudly.
Perfect age for bonding with new human owner, training, and starting an entire new life.

Black eyes.
Extremely fine very soft hair [coat].


p/s:
Only 5 left. For the Abbyruvians above, both parents are specifically selected (over a 3 years period), and of course originated and imported of pure-blood and pure-breeds.



* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

PM for more private piggy shots [for the above 3 selected piggies].


- - - thanks for sharing the love! - - -

wheek! wheek! wheek!

This post has been edited by ZhuZhuStuds: Jan 26 2011, 02:23 AM

congrats on the new version

i also have baby guimea pigs.. check out the link

ur term them as pure blood.. ? once u have mix them.. it is no longer pure blood.. and abbyruvian is not sheba mini yak... sheba mini yak is produced from mixing two now extinct breeds, the “Wombat-Faced Peruvian” (a Sheltie-type cavy) and the old-style Abyssinian... so dont get mixed up saying abbyruvian is a sheba mini yak..

Fully agreed with you, Abbyruvian is not similar to Sheba Mini Yak breed.

From what I observed, nowadays many Shelties sold in PLC petshops the quality has been dropped. The nose part all very sharp pointy like normal shorthair, and the fur is not very long type. The body size of my own Shelties which I bought from a home breeder is much larger size than the adult Sheltie I bought from PLC last year. Base on my own observation, those Shelties that I bought from PLC, not long life. The grey Chinchilla color already died last year with no apparent reason losing weight, same goes with the white polar bear now is losing weight even though have appetite to eat, pump with vit C eat Oxbow, but yet still very skinny. I doubt it will live as long as my Lao-Ta Sheltie.

Now I only left with 5 Shelties at home. One is going to her adopted parent this weekend, and then another 2 is under Intensive Care Unit (unhealthy condition need intensive care). Only left with a pair that is healthy and chubby. I really hope they do produce offspring soon, or else my quality Sheltie generation no more inheritance.

This post has been edited by Juztiny: Jan 26 2011, 11:22 AM

Once again thank you Xavi!
Will start shopping for the stuff when I come back from CNY.
I will PM you once I have the things.
Thank you again.
Timi and Mimi says thank you too

Exactly.

A pure blood pure breed is a tracked heridary lineage for at least 30 decendents, of the same genus family. Say a Peruvian pure blood would have to be of 30 generations of pure peruvians, same as the other genus.

Hence, their 1st-generation off spring, called a hybrid will no longer be called pure bred, but specifically termed "1st-Generation Hybrid", OF both pure blooded individuals parents each.

Again, it's a humble advice don't get into genetic engineering and selective breeding of GPs... unless you've the facilities, systems, capacity, and in it for the long haul.

Subsequent breeders will then only want to mate 1st-Gen with other proven 1st-Gen, in all their proper systematic methods.



_ _ _

And the reason from version 6, version 7, to let the northern hemisphere countries (Holland, UK, etc.) to do the breeding, and enjoy their nice weather.
We just simply import them into Malaysia at bulk, and everyone can enjoy the low price of imported GPs.

Yes, the weather matters. From the same parents, our cavies in Japan and beijing tends to be rounder, fatter, and bigger. All given the same food formula.



_ _ _ _ _

And you are both correct, the "Sheby Mini Yaks" is not abbyruvian, but common misused term in the US (and Canada) general petshops, the Down Under and films. Commonly misused to refer to what some buyers thinks they are looking for.
In the earlier years, families use the term "the small cow" or "xiao niu" to refer to that cute furry snuffle that resemble the north american yaks - at miniature size...



temp writeup link info here: http://home.netspeed.com.au/reguli/Shebas.htm (source)
Apart from the fact they are products of the 1960s, they tend to be adored by the public and many of those who work with them but are cordially detested by some of the Powers That Be in their respective worlds. In the case of the Daleks, some actors and directors hate them and in the case of the Sheba Mini Yaks some judges and some breeders pour on them a similar level of scorn the aforementioned actors and directors reserve for the Daleks. On the other hand, their respective aficionados become quite passionate, even one-eyed and irrational in their defence. Put simply: you either love ‘em or hate ‘em.

The Sheba Mini Yak is an Australian breed, created by Mrs Wynne Eecen (founder of the NSW Cavy Club) in 1969 from crossing an old-style Abyssinian with the "Wombat Faced Peruvian" which was really a rather bad Sheltie from an era before we were allowed to import stock from Britain. (We can’t do that these days, either). Basically, it is a semi-longhaired Abyssinian.

The original breed standard (which can be found in Mrs Eecen’s book, Pigs Isn’t Pigs, Favoretta Publications, 1974) is said to have been based around one animal, presumably "Marmaduke" (star of television, book and song – probably the only cavy to have a pop song written and sung about him). If so, this is no real problem. After all the breed standard for the Norwegian Forest Cat is based on one animal, "Pan Truls".

The breed standard as given in Pigs Isn’t Pigs calls for a "Heavy, sturdy thick set animal" with a head described as "squarish in aspect, with parakeet frontal and mutton-chop whiskers". The fur is to be "medium texture, thick and luxuriant." and the animal to be shown "Rosetted, in a natural state, not to be highly groomed or to have hair parted in the middle". The ideal length of coat is to cover the feet or floor level. They appear to have been classed as longhairs at that time.

Until recently, they were classed as Coarse Coats, along with the Rex and the Abyssinian. The most recent standard (Australian National Cavy Council Approved Standards for Exhibition Cavies August 1994 edition) calls for the coat’s texture "to be as coarse as possible but with lustre", the density to be "even all round", the length "to cover the feet only, even all round with no sweep", the fringe "to be forward over the face", the moustache "to be likened to Mutton Chop Whiskers"; the head "to be broad with short nose, eyes to be large bold and wide spaced. Ears to be large, rose petal shaped and drooping with good width between" and the shape and size "to be cobby, thick set and firm fleshed, broad at the shoulders and large throughout. Presentation is to be "without a parting and in a natural rosetted state". Additional remarks state" The hair should be sufficiently coarse to prevent impression of flatness. It should stand away from the body around rosettes at neck, sides and rump. The fringe is not required to cover the face completely, features and moustache (Mutton Chop Whiskers) should be visible…"

A request was made to the Standards Review Panel of the Australian National Cavy Council to review the standard. For some reason (I am not sure how or why) this resulted in the breed being de-standardised so from Sept. 2005 it can only be shown in the Unstandardised Class while a new breed standard is worked on with a view to being submitted to the Standards Review Panel. A draft standard has already been submitted but it is by no means satisfactory to all Sheba breeders and the discussions among those breeders with email certainly revealed some differences in what we all think a Sheba should be. My own view is that we really need to get together physically and have a hands-on workshop. Possibly we should set aside some time at the National Cavy Show this year, though not all Sheba breeders go to that.

There are problems with the Sheba, of course. One is coat length. Shebas often have coats longer than their feet, some even have sweeps. Another is getting the right lift in the coat (the presence of rosettes and their placement influences this) while at the same time they should have partial frontals ("parakeets") and mutton chops. Those with the good parakeets and mutton chops often have flatter, heavier coats (the Peruvian in their heritage).

It is generally thought that the use of imported Peruvians or Abyssinians in Sheba lines damaged the breed, though some old timers say that even in the 1970s, Shebas often had coats growing past their feet and photos in Pigs Isn’t Pigs show Shebas with flat, heavy "Peruvian" type coats. Certainly the original breeds they were derived from no longer exist and, most likely, neither do the original Sheba lines.

A third sticking point is that all too many have been shown with dirty coats in a quite disgusting way as it is commonly believed that washing a Coarse Coat robs it of its coarseness. I’ve certainly come across some very smelly specimens at some shows and can’t really blame those judges who dislike them if they have had to handle such grotty little pigs.

One issue is what group they should be in. In Queensland they show them as Longhairs and the provisional standard wants them to be placed in that group. I can’t see the logic myself, except that it would allow the coats to be trimmed but as trimmed coats in Longhairs can and often are penalised, I can’t see the point. The other Longhairs’ coats grow at 2.5cm a month. The Sheba’s hair is much slower growing and just does not present with the wealth of a Peruvian, Sheltie, Texel or Coronet in full coat. In my view, they should no more be in Longhair than a Somali or Balinese should be in Group 1 (Persians, Maine Coons, etc.). Coarse Coat doesn’t quite cut it either.

In fact, the problem is with the title "Coarse Coat" as really, only the Rex has a coarse coat. Often Abyssinians are not that ‘coarse’. I have been told that originally this group was called "Coat Cavies", in other words, the coat carried most of the points so perhaps they should resume that name and leave the Sheba where it is.

So what’s my idea of a Sheba, then? It should be a big, cobby animal with a broad face – I aim to work to get bigger faces and more solid bodies on mine. The coat should look tousled, rumpled, scruffy, the worst case of "bad hair day". This is down to the rosettes and their placement to get the correct lift to the coat to create this effect. Heavy flat coats with centre partings (or even without centre partings) are not on. The coat should not have a sweep nor grow too long. In addition, the animal should have "mutton chops" growing forward and a partial frontal, a parakeet also growing forward over the face. Getting a frontal of a decent length is hard. As I said above the ones with the better frontals and mutton chops are those with the heavy flat Peruvian coats.

Of course, one of the most frustrating things about Shebas is that they chew their coats. Even if kept on their own with plenty of hay, they still chew.


temp writeup link info here: http://micheline76.multiply.com/photos/alb.../Sheba_Mini_Yak (source with photos)
"The sheba mini yak originated in Australia. It was bred from the "Wombat" peruvian and the old style abyssinian (please note that these are NOT the same as the modern breeds).

The sheba has a medium length coat which isn't meant to grow any longer than floor length. Due to the shorter coat they don't require as much grooming as other long haired breeds. The body is covered in rosettes just like the abyssinian. These rosettes lift the coat up giving it the desired "shaggy mop" appearance. The sheba has a frontal which lays to one side of the face unlike other breeds where total coverage is wanted. Along with the frontal they also have "mutton chops" or moustache, giving a completely covered face."

This post has been edited by ZhuZhuStuds: Jan 26 2011, 01:27 PM

As for Pet Shop Equipment, C&C cages, Supplies,

You can also checkout China's BAIDU.com, and can be automatically translated every page.

Checkout the incredible prices there, as their business industry and the government already formed consortiums to manufacture new GP requirement designs, mass manufactured (improvements over designs on italian Marchioro, japanese Marukan, and the much improved double layered tray (seperation of urine & poo) and cold weather nonalloy cages). These are all the new designs petitioned for bulk production over the past 4 years. Good stuff for GP owners, and finally at publicly affordable prices.


C&C cages, panels, binders, even direct from the plastics patent holder in Brazil.

Get home personal shipping services back to Malaysia, and you are pretty much 'tax free' if you arrange properly, and economical.




Dudes, get a group of people in Malaysia, form a small GP supplies consortium , offer it as a business.

( will add more photos later, all these photos, brand names, information already available in Baidu.com )
--- Later will link or paste it over.
To add on top of it, there's an updated supplier-factories' list from all 6 parts of the world for the original and OEM equipment makers.



Meanwhile, our local petstores is already at very healthy numbers, it's oredi worth your effort to enjoy with them.

i cannot brain this tl;dr... pls use spoiler nex time.. if there is long list of text pls jus direct reader to the site u copy from..

CutiePie69:
i will be going to damansara this weekend.. so i will check out the cubes dimension 1.. then only i confirm u again ..
this is my newest addition -->

Wow.... looks good!
I like

but this 1 i think suitable for 1 adult only.. hahaha.. if for two adult i think need to double its size.. so u got an idea of wat i mean right.. the 1 i show above is a tray system cage (close top) (the size of the floor is two toilet mat) it was an upgrade from my 1 toilet mat jail last time ahhahaha... the size now is the same as a rm60 rabit cage. jus shorter ceiling.. hahaha..

ughhh~

want to adopt guinea pig from uk.the airplanes cost and others cost 1 guinea pig around rm1000.expensive. and minimum have to be 3 pairs,because companies in air flight so they wont be stress.

but her guinea pigs are very good quality,and have vet health cert.

anyone interested?hahahaha

This post has been edited by xuanyu9: Jan 27 2011, 01:32 AM

Do you currently own any guinea pig as pet yet?

If you're not, then very risky to bring in such an expensive exotic pet, when you are inexperience in handling it.

i have help my friend take care before,so basically i know what gp needs.do guide me too.as i will buy a pair in april .
already doing a lot of research

and i will just get a pair in malaysia,because yes,import is expensive.

if i visit to their farm,ill upload some picture here the guinea pigs^^

This post has been edited by xuanyu9: Jan 27 2011, 05:04 PM

hi..got a question..is it okay if they eat newspaper??lolx..
i let them out in the playpen..use newspaper to layer..but they keep eating the newspaper..

of course nottttttttttttttttttttttttttttt

lol

yea.. they like to chew them.. Due to the celulose content in it...mine have a thing for the star newspaper.. Nst, metro and other not so fond pulak.. Hahha... It is ok in small amount .. But too much it might cause stomach discomfort later..

har?really can??

haha...xavi...can choose newpaper somore..haha..mine only chews on star..as thats d only newspaper i have at home..=)

My bois chew on sin chew paper... not yet let them try star haha
They dun like magazine papers
Chinapress still ok...

cant stop them.. they jus a chewer... not good in long run though.. i always marah marah her by tapping on her head when choco do it.. but bad habit is very hard to solve.. since she like the star so much.. i dont use it any more.. i source other paper then it dont chew so much any more..

haha...i shall start experimenting to see which newspaper my boys like and dont like now too..

congrats on version 8.

rexy checking in.





still waiting for his fur to grow long. only 4months old now.

This post has been edited by llsphinxll: Jan 28 2011, 05:40 PM

awwwwwwww!!!!SO CUTE!!!!!!

---

Added on January 28, 2011, 6:26 pmem,mind ask==....newspaper for toilet is it?

This post has been edited by xuanyu9: Jan 28 2011, 06:26 PM

yea .. i put it as a layer in the toilet.. but she lov to tear it out and chew..

my boys wont allow me to carry em..=(

carry as in holding.. Most gp dont like to be hold.. How u hold it.. Must use two hand 1 hand holding its buttock.. Another holding its body by clingging to its two front leg

i put my hand under them they start running away already oo..

wow, so fast new thread liau, nice ah wei

ow u mean catching them from their cage eh.. yea.. they are like tat 1.. my way is always talk talk 1st.. then stroke stroke their fur and head there.. then only catch ..

wah v8. congratz. my magmag at last grown healthier. i plan to put my 2 piggy together. will upload pic soon!!

haha..thanks thanks..haha will try that next time..now i more scared of them than they scared of me liao..haha..one like to bite..always bite ppl..

my gp bite me when he want to pee or poo. Maybe gp dont like to do it on human. Immediately after i put them back in the cage they pee or poo. But their bite is not harmful and never bleed my hand. If i dont release them when they start to bite after several minutes they will pee on me, i have tried this haha.

Actually gp can bite us until bleeding, their tooth are strong enough to do that. Be careful if u hand feed fresh veggies to your gp, sometimes they accidentally bite your finger and this has happened to my wife her finger got bleeding. Haha.

Other pain which i got from my gp are scratch on my chest bcos they like to climb to my chest and sometimes i dont wear shirt i got scratch at my chest. Their nails are sometimes sharp especially after i cut their nails. Sometimes he eat and pull the hair on my chest. This is also painful, maybe he taught it was hay. Haha. Once when i kiss2 my gp, he pulled the hair of my nose i really shock that time. Haha. After that i trim it.

Normally they bite to tell us something (discomfort, want to poo or pee), they also make sound and moves to tell you something. My female gp always bite me if i hold her after i smoking. Maybe she didnt like cigarette smell. Haha.

Just dont be scared of them, they are small animal even if they bite u, u will not died. Their bite like your gf or mum cubit u when u r naughty.

My gps like to be rub on both side of their cheek/ mouth and like pictures below. Once u got them in your hand try to rub their cheek if they like it they will freeze. There are several places they like to be rubbed u will find it someday.



This post has been edited by shukri77: Jan 30 2011, 10:22 PM

awww shukri ur story are niceee^^

awww...so adorable...hahaha...my kookie likes to be rub under his chin..whenever i rub his chin...his kepala will go up higher and higher..haha..but i dont hold him with my hands..i always put like a box cover in their cage..then they will jump in then i pick it up..haha..but i never carry or catch it with my hands before..coz they always jump..and scared...

My GP don't chew them but tears them
But it likes to chew cardboard. Chewing cardboard once in awhile is ok right??

---

Added on January 31, 2011, 9:24 amSame with me too.
Usually need to pet it first only it will calm down

This post has been edited by Princess90: Jan 31 2011, 09:24 AM

I wonder do u guys bath ur guinea pig? Or used any other method to clean them?

i do bath my guinea pigs..

GAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
Mine is like that too!

Toffy, Minie and Bear says hi all !!



This post has been edited by TobbyChan: Jan 31 2011, 10:48 PM

whoa cute!!!

hahaha,,,, comel lotek!!! from big to small...

Hi all The Pro GP master
I need Help ! i notice yesterday night that my piggy (aby ) got some hairloss i dunno is normal or not! when i cuddle him i notice that my hand got some of his fur i dunno is normal or not ! i feed him capsicum,carrot,cucumber,hay, tomato, pellet. i make some online research also i cant find the problem. i'm scare he got some problem with his diet or sickness !

my gp name fatty already dead
im soo sad...juz 1 week i start working at JB...
i cant bring it together...so my family take care of it.
but on laz friday...my GP didnt want to eat n juz keep silent only
when my mom wanna take to pet clinic...its already close his eye.....
im soo sad...my GP miss me until die :'(

waaaoo..sooo cuuteee...mama papa and son??

Thanks!

Hahaha..nice one right? hehe..I thought bear is male at the first place. When I check again on her 3rd week weather I shud put him with Totty and Luffy then I realized Bear is a SHE!

Is it a lot of hairloss? There are quite a number of reasons behind hair loss : mites, fungal, vit c deficiency. Is your pig mites free?

RIP fatty.

haha..nope.. all of them are my female piggies
Bear is Minie daughter though.

There are about 4-5 calls to buy Bear since I put her on sale. But I don't feel like selling anymore. Why? When I ask basic question, answer like
"I can put her in my hamster cage.." <--
"I can see people put gp's in reban. No need to get a nice cage" <--
"She can share pallet with my rabbit" <---

all of this makes me think twice..

So any of you who interested in my Bear and really serious in taking care of gp do let me know.Else, I don't mind having her in my herd.. =)

This post has been edited by TobbyChan: Feb 1 2011, 02:48 PM

Yes is mite free, at his potty area i can notice some fur also. worry

=.= put in reban..ahahaha....erm..i'm planning to get one more piggy..but not so soon oo..

lol... maybe i interested.. but have to c and think bout it after CNY

manejist
lack of vitamin C and B..
jus google search wat vege and fruit contain high amount of this and check the compatibility of it to gp at google or front page..

yes normally use baby shampoo and warm water. Bath to treat infection warm water and cinegar.

anybody interested to buy a male sheltie? Please PM me. thanx

how to make gp fat n stay healty?