WOW VERSION 8 in only few months time!

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some new photos of new born "Baby ABBYRUVIANS" sheby mini yaks

ABBYRUVIAN626"flowerball"


ABBYRUVIAN899"snowshoe"

For link code, can copy here: < http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1512142 >
photos taken less than 3 weeks old.

1st-generation 'hybrid' Abbyruvians of pure bred pure blooded parents.


Last 5 ekors (only got 20 pax January 2011 - rest ALL HABIS)

- those interested can PM with your own "offer price" for inviting your own piggies home. Before / around Chinese New Year Rabbit year starts.

Note:
Extremely human friendly personalities and each and everyone of them whistles on high pitch and can do so loudly.
Perfect age for bonding with new human owner, training, and starting an entire new life.

Black eyes.
Extremely fine very soft hair [coat].


p/s:
Only 5 left. For the Abbyruvians above, both parents are specifically selected (over a 3 years period), and of course originated and imported of pure-blood and pure-breeds.



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PM for more private piggy shots [for the above 3 selected piggies].


- - - thanks for sharing the love! - - -

wheek! wheek! wheek!

This post has been edited by ZhuZhuStuds: Jan 26 2011, 02:23 AM

Exactly.

A pure blood pure breed is a tracked heridary lineage for at least 30 decendents, of the same genus family. Say a Peruvian pure blood would have to be of 30 generations of pure peruvians, same as the other genus.

Hence, their 1st-generation off spring, called a hybrid will no longer be called pure bred, but specifically termed "1st-Generation Hybrid", OF both pure blooded individuals parents each.

Again, it's a humble advice don't get into genetic engineering and selective breeding of GPs... unless you've the facilities, systems, capacity, and in it for the long haul.

Subsequent breeders will then only want to mate 1st-Gen with other proven 1st-Gen, in all their proper systematic methods.



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And the reason from version 6, version 7, to let the northern hemisphere countries (Holland, UK, etc.) to do the breeding, and enjoy their nice weather.
We just simply import them into Malaysia at bulk, and everyone can enjoy the low price of imported GPs.

Yes, the weather matters. From the same parents, our cavies in Japan and beijing tends to be rounder, fatter, and bigger. All given the same food formula.



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And you are both correct, the "Sheby Mini Yaks" is not abbyruvian, but common misused term in the US (and Canada) general petshops, the Down Under and films. Commonly misused to refer to what some buyers thinks they are looking for.
In the earlier years, families use the term "the small cow" or "xiao niu" to refer to that cute furry snuffle that resemble the north american yaks - at miniature size...



temp writeup link info here: http://home.netspeed.com.au/reguli/Shebas.htm (source)
Apart from the fact they are products of the 1960s, they tend to be adored by the public and many of those who work with them but are cordially detested by some of the Powers That Be in their respective worlds. In the case of the Daleks, some actors and directors hate them and in the case of the Sheba Mini Yaks some judges and some breeders pour on them a similar level of scorn the aforementioned actors and directors reserve for the Daleks. On the other hand, their respective aficionados become quite passionate, even one-eyed and irrational in their defence. Put simply: you either love ‘em or hate ‘em.

The Sheba Mini Yak is an Australian breed, created by Mrs Wynne Eecen (founder of the NSW Cavy Club) in 1969 from crossing an old-style Abyssinian with the "Wombat Faced Peruvian" which was really a rather bad Sheltie from an era before we were allowed to import stock from Britain. (We can’t do that these days, either). Basically, it is a semi-longhaired Abyssinian.

The original breed standard (which can be found in Mrs Eecen’s book, Pigs Isn’t Pigs, Favoretta Publications, 1974) is said to have been based around one animal, presumably "Marmaduke" (star of television, book and song – probably the only cavy to have a pop song written and sung about him). If so, this is no real problem. After all the breed standard for the Norwegian Forest Cat is based on one animal, "Pan Truls".

The breed standard as given in Pigs Isn’t Pigs calls for a "Heavy, sturdy thick set animal" with a head described as "squarish in aspect, with parakeet frontal and mutton-chop whiskers". The fur is to be "medium texture, thick and luxuriant." and the animal to be shown "Rosetted, in a natural state, not to be highly groomed or to have hair parted in the middle". The ideal length of coat is to cover the feet or floor level. They appear to have been classed as longhairs at that time.

Until recently, they were classed as Coarse Coats, along with the Rex and the Abyssinian. The most recent standard (Australian National Cavy Council Approved Standards for Exhibition Cavies August 1994 edition) calls for the coat’s texture "to be as coarse as possible but with lustre", the density to be "even all round", the length "to cover the feet only, even all round with no sweep", the fringe "to be forward over the face", the moustache "to be likened to Mutton Chop Whiskers"; the head "to be broad with short nose, eyes to be large bold and wide spaced. Ears to be large, rose petal shaped and drooping with good width between" and the shape and size "to be cobby, thick set and firm fleshed, broad at the shoulders and large throughout. Presentation is to be "without a parting and in a natural rosetted state". Additional remarks state" The hair should be sufficiently coarse to prevent impression of flatness. It should stand away from the body around rosettes at neck, sides and rump. The fringe is not required to cover the face completely, features and moustache (Mutton Chop Whiskers) should be visible…"

A request was made to the Standards Review Panel of the Australian National Cavy Council to review the standard. For some reason (I am not sure how or why) this resulted in the breed being de-standardised so from Sept. 2005 it can only be shown in the Unstandardised Class while a new breed standard is worked on with a view to being submitted to the Standards Review Panel. A draft standard has already been submitted but it is by no means satisfactory to all Sheba breeders and the discussions among those breeders with email certainly revealed some differences in what we all think a Sheba should be. My own view is that we really need to get together physically and have a hands-on workshop. Possibly we should set aside some time at the National Cavy Show this year, though not all Sheba breeders go to that.

There are problems with the Sheba, of course. One is coat length. Shebas often have coats longer than their feet, some even have sweeps. Another is getting the right lift in the coat (the presence of rosettes and their placement influences this) while at the same time they should have partial frontals ("parakeets") and mutton chops. Those with the good parakeets and mutton chops often have flatter, heavier coats (the Peruvian in their heritage).

It is generally thought that the use of imported Peruvians or Abyssinians in Sheba lines damaged the breed, though some old timers say that even in the 1970s, Shebas often had coats growing past their feet and photos in Pigs Isn’t Pigs show Shebas with flat, heavy "Peruvian" type coats. Certainly the original breeds they were derived from no longer exist and, most likely, neither do the original Sheba lines.

A third sticking point is that all too many have been shown with dirty coats in a quite disgusting way as it is commonly believed that washing a Coarse Coat robs it of its coarseness. I’ve certainly come across some very smelly specimens at some shows and can’t really blame those judges who dislike them if they have had to handle such grotty little pigs.

One issue is what group they should be in. In Queensland they show them as Longhairs and the provisional standard wants them to be placed in that group. I can’t see the logic myself, except that it would allow the coats to be trimmed but as trimmed coats in Longhairs can and often are penalised, I can’t see the point. The other Longhairs’ coats grow at 2.5cm a month. The Sheba’s hair is much slower growing and just does not present with the wealth of a Peruvian, Sheltie, Texel or Coronet in full coat. In my view, they should no more be in Longhair than a Somali or Balinese should be in Group 1 (Persians, Maine Coons, etc.). Coarse Coat doesn’t quite cut it either.

In fact, the problem is with the title "Coarse Coat" as really, only the Rex has a coarse coat. Often Abyssinians are not that ‘coarse’. I have been told that originally this group was called "Coat Cavies", in other words, the coat carried most of the points so perhaps they should resume that name and leave the Sheba where it is.

So what’s my idea of a Sheba, then? It should be a big, cobby animal with a broad face – I aim to work to get bigger faces and more solid bodies on mine. The coat should look tousled, rumpled, scruffy, the worst case of "bad hair day". This is down to the rosettes and their placement to get the correct lift to the coat to create this effect. Heavy flat coats with centre partings (or even without centre partings) are not on. The coat should not have a sweep nor grow too long. In addition, the animal should have "mutton chops" growing forward and a partial frontal, a parakeet also growing forward over the face. Getting a frontal of a decent length is hard. As I said above the ones with the better frontals and mutton chops are those with the heavy flat Peruvian coats.

Of course, one of the most frustrating things about Shebas is that they chew their coats. Even if kept on their own with plenty of hay, they still chew.


temp writeup link info here: http://micheline76.multiply.com/photos/alb.../Sheba_Mini_Yak (source with photos)
"The sheba mini yak originated in Australia. It was bred from the "Wombat" peruvian and the old style abyssinian (please note that these are NOT the same as the modern breeds).

The sheba has a medium length coat which isn't meant to grow any longer than floor length. Due to the shorter coat they don't require as much grooming as other long haired breeds. The body is covered in rosettes just like the abyssinian. These rosettes lift the coat up giving it the desired "shaggy mop" appearance. The sheba has a frontal which lays to one side of the face unlike other breeds where total coverage is wanted. Along with the frontal they also have "mutton chops" or moustache, giving a completely covered face."

This post has been edited by ZhuZhuStuds: Jan 26 2011, 01:27 PM

As for Pet Shop Equipment, C&C cages, Supplies,

You can also checkout China's BAIDU.com, and can be automatically translated every page.

Checkout the incredible prices there, as their business industry and the government already formed consortiums to manufacture new GP requirement designs, mass manufactured (improvements over designs on italian Marchioro, japanese Marukan, and the much improved double layered tray (seperation of urine & poo) and cold weather nonalloy cages). These are all the new designs petitioned for bulk production over the past 4 years. Good stuff for GP owners, and finally at publicly affordable prices.


C&C cages, panels, binders, even direct from the plastics patent holder in Brazil.

Get home personal shipping services back to Malaysia, and you are pretty much 'tax free' if you arrange properly, and economical.




Dudes, get a group of people in Malaysia, form a small GP supplies consortium , offer it as a business.

( will add more photos later, all these photos, brand names, information already available in Baidu.com )
--- Later will link or paste it over.
To add on top of it, there's an updated supplier-factories' list from all 6 parts of the world for the original and OEM equipment makers.



Meanwhile, our local petstores is already at very healthy numbers, it's oredi worth your effort to enjoy with them.