Common Kelvin White Balance Settings : 2500K - very strong orange tungsten light 2800K - strong orange tungsten light 3200K - yellowish tungsten light 4500K M6 - flourescent light (most flourescent tubes are green even though our eyes don't see it) 5500K - flash 6500K - daylight (or daylight-balanced flourescent light) 9900K - strong blue stage lighting or evening light
Xenon lighting is rare but that should be between 7000-9000K.
Whenever you enter a new situation that has different WB, just set your Kelvin WB again and test with one shot. You
should be able to do this with practice.
With the Sony A300 and A350, you can use Live View and see the effect of changing Kelvin WB... live!
M = Magenta G = Green 2500K = Blue 9900K = Amber
Take a picture. Supposing the picture is very Green, you need to add the opposite which is Magenta. If the picture is
too Blue you need to go closer to Amber. So if the picture is very blue-green-ish, you will need to go closer to 9900K
M9.
To prevent the built-in flash from appearing in pictures when in wireless flash mode, you can use any of these
methods, or a combination of them:
- use a darker aperture (e.g. F11) - use a lower ISO (e.g. ISO100) - use a shutter speed faster than your flash sync speed so that High Speed Sync is activated (e.g. 1/320th of a
second) - use a piece of exposed, developed negative film in front of your pop-up flash
New APS-C / DT Crop Lenses -------------------------------
Sony 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 DT = RM20xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA = RM25xx Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM16xx Sony 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM16xx Sony 50mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM5xx Sigma 50-150mm F2.8 EX DC HSM Macro = RM30xx
New Full-Frame Lenses ---------------------------
Sony 16mm F2.8 Diagonal Fisheye = RM25xx Sony 20mm F2.8 = RM19xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-35mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 24-70mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 = RM18xx Sony 28mm F2.8 = RM8xx Sony 35mm F1.4G = RM45xx Sony 50mm F1.4 = RM10xx Sony 50mm F2.8 Macro = RM14xx Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 Macro = RM30xx Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG HSM Macro = RM38xx Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM = RM54xx Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM = RM25xx Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA = RM50xx Sony 100mm F2.8 Macro = RM23xx Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA = RM48xx Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus = RM36xx Sony 500mm F8.0 AF Reflex = RM25xx Sony 300mm F2.8G SSM = RM20xxx Sony 1.4x Teleconverter = RM15xx Sony 2.0x Teleconverter = RM15xx
This post has been edited by amadeo: Nov 21 2009, 11:44 PM
wah new thread ady, i got a question so, did u guys PP before resize/crop or after ? any different with the outcome ?
ok it depends.. certain pp are done b4 cropping/resize especially resize to smaller size.. but sharpen is always the last pp to be done.. i learn that from Lynda.com
wah new thread ady, i got a question so, did u guys PP before resize/crop or after ? any different with the outcome ?
Before.
QUOTE(littleway @ Nov 21 2009, 10:52 PM)
Finally got my A550. Mess it around for 30mins, found some bugs with the firmware.
When I switch the AF confirm sound off, it is silent when you focusing (which is correct). Then choose back AF confirm sound to On, it still remains quiet. Restart the camera, remove battery and insert again, doesn't solve this. Only way is to restore firmware. !=.=
Another thing is the LCD brightness.. It suppose to auto adjust the brightness according to ambient. However it does not. Tried to play around with the light sensor beside the LCD, it doesn't make any difference.
If it's firmware bug, then u have to wait for Sony to come up with firmware upgrade.. if ur camera is faulty, then u can send it to repair and claim warranty..
i'll wait till other A550 user for their feedback..
yeap, resize before pp will make u pp in a lower quality.....and diffrent result...correct me if im wrong.. cz i always resize after everythings done ......
This post has been edited by invisibl3boyz: Nov 21 2009, 11:50 PM
i'm already send my a550 for servicing. actually i send 2, one a550 and H1. i already got call from sony about the cost for repairing my H1. but for my a550 not recive any call yet. in the tracking mention " waiting for part". should be FoC since under warranty, i think.
ok it depends.. certain pp are done b4 cropping/resize especially resize to smaller size.. but sharpen is always the last pp to be done.. i learn that from Lynda.com
QUOTE(weixuan @ Nov 21 2009, 11:47 PM)
resize is usually my last step. before that would be cropping. before that would be level/contrast adjustment, sharpening, WB tuning, etc
QUOTE(invisibl3boyz @ Nov 21 2009, 11:48 PM)
yeap, resize before pp will make u pp in a lower quality.....and diffrent result...correct me if im wrong.. cz i always resize after everythings done ......
thanks for the info n tips guys, i always PP after crop and resize feel like less detailed with the outcomes =.="
This post has been edited by Hinika: Nov 22 2009, 12:02 AM
opss... need to post something constructive.. if not some @$#^#%@#$ person will ban me again free-free je kena 10% warning level... Hopefully the person will also monitor other threads and BAN those in other threads too, not jus Sony alpha thread.
hama = mites = kutu kecil yang tak nampak guna mata shj.
bernama bro, kenapa hantar service your a550? kan baru je beli? ada problem?
I usually PP after crop / resize. Because when resizing, image quality will degrade. So special touches need to make the picture better. Last step would be unsharpening the photos. Thats my workflow.
Hinika: If I know I am only going to use it at a low resolution then I post-process after resizing; makes editing a lot, lot faster.
littleway: If you are in AF-C there is no sound and no AF assist light.
porkchop: You can't see anything from the IR filter-ed light. However an IR-sensitive camera, can.
CCTVs have IR lights and often work in IR only. So it turns on the light when there is none, as humans cannot see IR. Quite like the Sony Handycam NightShot mode.
ieR: Please state your source!
signither: You could try my Kingston 133x 32GB card in your A700... no reason for it not to work. My card doesn't work in an A100 though.
bernama7: Wah do you live in the forest?
neo_lam: Just get the dry box. I have that exact same thing and it is tedious to keep charging it every few days.
Keeping a lens in a bag is bad. Bags will promote fungus. Left my beercan in the old A100 bag and that's how it got fungus, and I knew from then on I had to get a dry box.
davidmak: It is well known that the A550 does 7 FPS with AF and AE off. And yes 5 FPS is with AF and AE.
This post has been edited by albnok: Nov 22 2009, 12:38 AM
Ahhhhh! New a550 users who got the package from Sony Style! Sell me the Sony MS10 bag la. Get a crumpler or lowepro or something la! So desperate for that MS10 la but dont think paying 250 for that bag is wise. ):
v1rtual: The right side is underexposed; try 2 exposures and merge them.
HDR works for night shooting as well huh? never tried before i should have taken 1 in raw..huh!! regret!!!
any suggestion how should i capture people with the background of the building with proper expose of the person and also the background building? tried using cobra @ 60 degree with the white thing opened, with fill in flash function..but it still give me a long exposure
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 22 2009, 12:20 AM)
ieR: Please state your source!
after digging my history of all thing i read. finally i found it. phew... tired after re-read all the thing i visited. one might ask, after reading so much detail review of A550, why arent i got poison yet? coz wallet no money >.<
guys....pls help me..... why my a350 suddenly appear out that BRK wb Hi?? nvr seen it....did i accidently change any setting? and after tht thing appear..some of the photos tht are taken...turn out to be twice ...with diff white balance....help..
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(invisibl3boyz @ Nov 22 2009, 01:17 AM)
guys....pls help me..... why my a350 suddenly appear out that BRK wb Hi?? nvr seen it....did i accidently change any setting? and after tht thing appear..some of the photos tht are taken...turn out to be twice ...with diff white balance....help..
do u know how to access to drive mode? (button beside iso button)
HDR works for night shooting as well huh? never tried before i should have taken 1 in raw..huh!! regret!!!
any suggestion how should i capture people with the background of the building with proper expose of the person and also the background building? tried using cobra @ 60 degree with the white thing opened, with fill in flash function..but it still give me a long exposure
if i understand correctly, what bro albert saying was, do a panorama.. take 2 or more shots, then merge them..
i was wrong.. he said 2 exposures, not 2 shots.. sorry
This post has been edited by signither: Nov 22 2009, 02:20 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
there is built in function in cs4.
File>automate>merge to HDR
it's quite diff from cs2, it requires untouch exif, because it will gain info from there to create the HDR in 32bit. it will not overburn it like those HDR software(which to me is ugly)
after it complete creating it, pls set
image>mode>8bit/channel
to send it back to normal jpeg color range, else u will see wierd color on ur lcd/monitor
This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 22 2009, 01:53 PM
it's quite diff from cs2, it requires untouch exif, because it will gain info from there to create the HDR in 32bit. it will not overburn it like those HDR software(which to me is ugly)
after it complete creating it, pls set
image>mode>8bit/channel
to send it back to normal jpeg color range, else u will see wierd color on ur lcd/monitor
thanks, gonna tried it soon
when i do image>mode>8bit/channel it asks to get gamma and exposure, what do i do? just click ok?
This post has been edited by v1rtual: Nov 22 2009, 03:04 PM
Hi guys..had been following this thread for quite some time and finally, i got my a300 yesterday..hope to learn from all alpha gurus here
btw just wanna say i love bokeh shots and achew's bokehs are really inspirational
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
it's your money and you're gonna be using it. so the decision is yours and yours alone
Added on November 22, 2009, 8:28 pm
QUOTE(Uzumaki NaruTo @ Nov 22 2009, 08:27 PM)
Damn number 1 the spider eats the bee? Nice catch. What lens did you use?
Yup, happy meal for spidey. used SAL 16-105 + Kenko extension tube + F58 (with alien gun)
This post has been edited by hokc77: Nov 22 2009, 08:28 PM
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses... quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
do your own research, find out what are the differences in all the camera that is within your budget. see which function you need, and what you don't need (but nowadays, all dSLRs are on par).
if u have the chance, try the different cameras yourself and see which feels the best for you.
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
when i get my alpha350 all the shops also dun suggest me to take sony they say it sucks this and that but once i bought it i fell so happy with and and never regret, and almost all DSLR are the same now maybe nikon is slightly better in term of the picture quality but who care about the little diffrence in picture.
one more thing that sony can beat the rest of the brand is the features, if u have friend using nikon or canon try bring them under klcc tower and see how they take picture,with alpha we just use live view and pull the screen then job done but they cant..
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
try the cameras in your hand first... see if you like them. for around 2k, you can try sony A230, A330, nikon D3000, D5000, canon 1000D, 450D... while you're at it, try pentax k-x and olympus E620 too.
after that, buy 1 that u like the handling the most. there isn't any major difference in terms of picture quality anyway... especially if you r not printing your photos in poster size but only posting online in facebook, blogs or flickr.
use the kit for a while and you'll start to know what kind of photo you shoot the most, what kind of feature suits you most, what limitation that you dislike about your camera, what features you can live with/without... then only see if you wanna jump ship or stay with you existing kit.
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
aiyah then ask ur fren to buy for you lah.. he he u see everyone here have incredibly superb pics kan? (at least the ones they/us showing) does it takes any certain camera brand to do that? NO... and it stays that way..
if u prefer a230, and like it in ur grip.. then go for it!
the same like buying a car. if u can afford a vios. and u fell comfortable with it.. then, are u gonna listen to ur frens saying kancil is better because its cheaper and more variety accessories?
sleep on it dude.. make up ur mind.. there's a lot of reviews in the internet.. XD read 'em
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
well i can say A230 is really not bad at all...i have friends using nikon D60 and canon 1000D and frankly when we compared what we shot,it's not much differences...but with my budget,which is d price of 2k that barely afford the other 2 cameras of my frens i can get more, a nice bag and other accessory for myself...but still u gotta hold them in ur hand to tell if u're comfortable with it...just my humble opinion
Hi there , welcome to alpha family .. Dont forget to join alphanatics .. And also register urself to next Alpha Flash Workshop this December 5th
hehe thanks for the warm welcome..already registered at alphanatics..i bought my a300 from a forumer there actually i would definitely join one of those workshops to learn more..but can onli do so after mid december due to exams haih..
QUOTE(HW-Racer @ Nov 22 2009, 08:14 PM)
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
hi there..when i first considered sony,my frens too advised against it..say canon and nikon more established and lens cheaper(50mm 1.8),but i see those pics posted in this thread and compared to those in the canon and nikon thread i just cant help feeling that the pics in this thread are awesome..and they are taken by sony dslrs!!
anyway heres wat i think,since the a230 is a comparably cheap entry level dslr..u could just go ahead and get it if it attracts u..u can sell it off without losing too much if u realize u dun like it after some time..go to some shops or sony centre and try out d a230 cukup cukup if u think its ok for then buy it!!
so far this two days of playing around with my a300 i think sony aint dat bad afterall
hehe thanks for the warm welcome..already registered at alphanatics..i bought my a300 from a forumer there actually i would definitely join one of those workshops to learn more..but can onli do so after mid december due to exams haih.. hi there..when i first considered sony,my frens too advised against it..say canon and nikon more established and lens cheaper(50mm 1.8),but i see those pics posted in this thread and compared to those in the canon and nikon thread i just cant help feeling that the pics in this thread are awesome..and they are taken by sony dslrs!!
anyway heres wat i think,since the a230 is a comparably cheap entry level dslr..u could just go ahead and get it if it attracts u..u can sell it off without losing too much if u realize u dun like it after some time..go to some shops or sony centre and try out d a230 cukup cukup if u think its ok for then buy it!!
so far this two days of playing around with my a300 i think sony aint dat bad afterall
i wouldnt say you're wrong about the statement, but you have greatly mistaken, photos no matter how good or bad it is, is taken by the homosapien holding the camera and NOT by the camera itself. the camera is a tool, the same goes, you credit leonardo da vinci for the mona lisa, not the brush that da vinci used to paint the mona lisa...
just got my 55mm +10 filter from ahmike last week.. it fits any lens with that thread size.. the SAL1870 or SAL55200
so if the kenko is 55mm then sure it'll fits..
go for macro!
extension tube is not a filter and it does not depends on ur filter size.... in fact it will increase ur magnification power w/o loosing much in your IQ.... bcoz it does not contains any glass inside.....
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this one is nice
Added on November 22, 2009, 10:18 pm
QUOTE(HW-Racer @ Nov 22 2009, 08:14 PM)
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
most important is u r the one using the camera not ur fren..... go try it out and trust ur own feeling.....
This post has been edited by cjlai: Nov 22 2009, 10:19 PM
just helped my friend to purchase an a550...the 7fps is really wow~~ hahaha...and i think the HDR thingy is kinda fun too..but what i dont like..or rather not used to it..its the buttons layout..and the menu..lol..took me awhile to find out how to set those settings..
i wouldnt say you're wrong about the statement, but you have greatly mistaken, photos no matter how good or bad it is, is taken by the homosapien holding the camera and NOT by the camera itself. the camera is a tool, the same goes, you credit leonardo da vinci for the mona lisa, not the brush that da vinci used to paint the mona lisa...
very true..
i was just trying to point out that sony dslrs are not as bad as wat others say bout it since so many great pictures are created using them..to some degree the cameras helped rite? however i do strongly agree that in the end its the pictures that are important and that the cameras are onli the tools to create the final product that u wan..
guys, quick check, can any of our flash 9F36,F56,F42,F58) be triggered by other brand camera, example, can a F56 triggered by Nikon D90... thanks in advance
i was just trying to point out that sony dslrs are not as bad as wat others say bout it since so many great pictures are created using them..to some degree the cameras helped rite? however i do strongly agree that in the end its the pictures that are important and that the cameras are onli the tools to create the final product that u wan..
my bad
if u r good n creative photographer..u produce wonders even if u r shooting with digital PnS...if u know nuts about photography..u produce shits even if u r using Dx3..
i had to agree that the tools help to a certain degree(otherwise y would we buy dslr anyway)..but the biggest factor is stil the man behind the camera..
guys, quick check, can any of our flash 9F36,F56,F42,F58) be triggered by other brand camera, example, can a F56 triggered by Nikon D90... thanks in advance
its possible the other way around... sony can optically trigger nikon's SBs. Nikon's can't trigger Sony's F's
if u r good n creative photographer..u produce wonders even if u r shooting with digital PnS...if u know nuts about photography..u produce shits even if u r using Dx3..
i had to agree that the tools help to a certain degree(otherwise y would we buy dslr anyway)..but the biggest factor is stil the man behind the camera..
very true.. i was just trying to point out that sony dslrs are not as bad as wat others say bout it since so many great pictures are created using them..to some degree the cameras helped rite? however i do strongly agree that in the end its the pictures that are important and that the cameras are onli the tools to create the final product that u wan.. my bad
Me myself still a noob in photography .. So cant comment much
So here goes (words fr The PRO) .. Your equipment DOES NOT affect the quality of your image. The less time and effort you spend worrying about your equipment the more time and effort you can spend creating great images. The right equipment just makes it easier, faster or more convenient for you to get the results you need. - Ken Rockwell - Your Camera Does Not Matter, 2005
v1rtual: Yes you will need a longer shutter speed. You can make it a bit shorter with high ISO and brighter apertures.
tanjq87: I don't remember - it's Ein's A100. Then again his A100 has been problematic and has had a tough life (including, not being able to use newer SSM lenses, while other A100s are fine.)
Hinika: Pull the lever on the back of the lens.
ieR: I am at page 6, and there is nothing that says the A550 is faster with the 55-200mm SAM (where you imply that the 55-200mm SAM is not faster on other cameras.)
services189: Wirelessly, no; however if you can find an iISO optical slave trigger which fits our Sony flashes, it might work.
v1rtual: Yes you will need a longer shutter speed. You can make it a bit shorter with high ISO and brighter apertures.
so if im to use a flash, should i meter on the person or the background? because if i meter on the person wouldnt the background which has light become overexposed?
another thing, what flash mode should be used? fill in flash?
This post has been edited by v1rtual: Nov 22 2009, 11:34 PM
v1rtual: Yes meter on the background. Use slow sync flash.
lwliam: I was answering the question of whether the Sony flashes could be triggered by other brands. The SB-600 does not have a SU-4 mode by the way and thus cannot be triggered by an Alpha in wireless mode. The SB-800 and SB-900 however can be triggered by Alpha wireless signals in SU-4 mode.
v1rtual: Yes meter on the background. Use slow sync flash.
lwliam: I was answering the question of whether the Sony flashes could be triggered by other brands. The SB-600 does not have a SU-4 mode by the way and thus cannot be triggered by an Alpha in wireless mode. The SB-800 and SB-900 however can be triggered by Alpha wireless signals in SU-4 mode.
STF perhaps not easy to use and not as flexible as other lenses(prime..F4.5 light transmission..heavy..blablabla)...altho i had to admit that the bokeh is really #@$%^$#@!
very itchy to get a 70200(maybe G..maybe tamron)...but after browsing thru some shots..the bokeh doesnt attracts me alot...i think 135 1.8's bokeh looked alot better...
wah..me newbie onli u so fast poison me?? the pic is really really awesome man..so smooth and nice and dreamy omg.. y say no to this lens leh?
achew, dun confusing our new alpharian
QUOTE(achew @ Nov 23 2009, 12:26 AM)
STF perhaps not easy to use and not as flexible as other lenses(prime..F4.5 light transmission..heavy..blablabla)...altho i had to admit that the bokeh is really #@$%^$#@!
very itchy to get a 70200(maybe G..maybe tamron)...but after browsing thru some shots..the bokeh doesnt attracts me alot...i think 135 1.8's bokeh looked alot better...
but.. but.. STF is niceee lens too for still life shooting (ur danbo, storm trooper will like this soo much)
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 22 2009, 11:20 PM)
ieR: I am at page 6, and there is nothing that says the A550 is faster with the 55-200mm SAM (where you imply that the 55-200mm SAM is not faster on other cameras.)
sh|tz, i misunderstood u, i tot u mean u wan proof on the last statement i did of the buffer limit of A550 on raw FPS... lol crap, i need to dig all the history again
*edit: no no, i dont imply that SAM is not fast on other camera, i implying, that the A550 new AF would bring out the best potential of the SAM, older alpha AF sensor werent as good as A550, so during AF-C for say, children running around, it wouldnt use it best potential to use the SAM to AF. mean on older then A550, sam would be fully push to the best potential. so A550 would benefit from it more, or other way around it will benefit more used on A550 then A3xx. no?
*edit2: okay, here to easy understand, the SAM only have 1 speed, not slower, not faster, 1 speed. so even on any camera, it still goes at the same speed (doesn't this sound better? ) what i trying to say is, above, A550 will uses the SAM ability to give upperhand on A550 shooting because of the new faster AF sensor in burst mode, shooting 4fps, with every frame are focused right, then with A300 burst with ever 1/4 has miss focused even with SAM. no?
This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 23 2009, 01:03 AM
I would say I prefer the Minolta-style bokeh to the Carl Zeiss. Anyway, isn't your work far more deliberate and planned out?
For example here's some from a Minolta 135mm F2.8, a superb compact lens which shouldn't be too expensive: http://www.ewinee.com/
i ever considered about that b4..but i was thinking..if i get 70200 1 day...then 135 2.8 would be totally replaced..im those kind of people who doesnt really mind the troubles of bringing heavy lenses...
i dont really get the part about my work far more deliberate and planned out...r u trying to say that i can take my sweet time to MF using STF ??
ieR: Yes the A550 is 30% faster than the A350 in AF-C.
Of course, the 55-200mm SAM on the A350 will still be faster than the 55-200mm on the A350. I do not know if they also improved the screw-drive motor or not.
achew: Yes, you can take your sweet time. You plan your shots a lot more than other people. I would say of all of us here you have more potential to use the STF (though, when you make fake bokeh it defeats the purpose of buying a lens for it.) MF is nowhere as hard as you think it is when using the STF, due to the large focus ring and long focus throw (how much you need to turn to go from close focus to infinity - bigger angle is easier for manual focus.)
I would like to see more outdoor shots from you. There the STF is not a problem. It's been a while, surely Singapore isn't just your room and figurines?
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 23 2009, 01:25 AM)
ieR: Yes the A550 is 30% faster than the A350 in AF-C.
Of course, the 55-200mm SAM on the A350 will still be faster than the 55-200mm on the A350. I do not know if they also improved the screw-drive motor or not.
not just faster, more accurate. there are reviewer tested it intensively, stated that, it in fact, (they declare) that previous model usually will have BF/FF problem in lowlight shooting, where A550 fix all that. seeing A550 has a breakthrough fixing so much of problem face with previous generation and great improvement..., iso, AF, fps, LV,... i think future model WILL be VERY promising. in fact, sony did improve so much in 3 years of acquire Alpha, of what took canon 7 years to do.
so, when u use SAM on A350 vs no SAM on A350, in a burst shooting on AF-C, does SAM will make the AF-C works better?
*edit: do i still have to find u the proof of source? i am tired of reading all the article i been through
Added on November 23, 2009, 1:51 ampic of my day,... since gf not in town, i got the whole afternoon for myself, took a walk and shoot. to me, i am reluctant to shoot sunset, because i been shooting it for the pass 10 month... but i guess, this is some new sight for a lot of people. enjoy
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Handheld on a shaky platform (sail/yacht platform) and a good job from the SSS on 50mm ( sony rock when our prime lens has SSS while there is no VR or IS on other prime )
This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 23 2009, 09:40 AM
pic spam for early mornin.. got the cars pic at 1U this evenin, and the water drop pic taken few hours ago. guys..let me knw if smething wrong with the color...coz my laptop screen gt some serious problem with the color that appear... all car pic is 'fake bokeh' with pp... coz i only got kitlens to play with... anyway...C&c are welcome...
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nice shots invisibl3boyz, but to my understanding, bokeh is the blur produced by defocused areas... the distance between the foreground object and the background determines the amount of bokeh not expensive or cheap lens... so yea, i think ur efforts are chun, but the last picture, the car pops out too much, even the floor is blurred...
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
invisibl3boyz, the bokeh make the car like toys car, hehehe nice one. the color for the water+leaf looked fine on my work lcd(5 year old, i think contrast only like 1000:1) for the car shooting, i guess u need to read up bout white balance (if u use flash, read bout gel card)
STF perhaps not easy to use and not as flexible as other lenses(prime..F4.5 light transmission..heavy..blablabla)...altho i had to admit that the bokeh is really #@$%^$#@!
very itchy to get a 70200(maybe G..maybe tamron)...but after browsing thru some shots..the bokeh doesnt attracts me alot...i think 135 1.8's bokeh looked alot better...
Oh oh... sounds like someone's moving away from 70200G to 135 f1.8Z...
QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 23 2009, 12:49 AM)
I would say I prefer the Minolta-style bokeh to the Carl Zeiss. Anyway, isn't your work far more deliberate and planned out?
For example here's some from a Minolta 135mm F2.8, a superb compact lens which shouldn't be too expensive: http://www.ewinee.com/
Know anyone who's selling it tho?
This post has been edited by Braynumb: Nov 23 2009, 10:00 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(HW-Racer @ Nov 22 2009, 08:14 PM)
I am looking at the a230 RM1799 or the A330 RM2199...but many of my friends advised against it... they ask me to choose from either canon or nikon due to better quality...and cheaper/more variety of accessories/lenses...
quite like the A230 due to its affordable pricing and design....
hahaha so many ppl reply to this, i also wan reply
u ask a sony user, he say sony good u ask a canon user, he say canon good u ask a nikon user, he say nikon good u ask a olympus user,he say olympus best u ask a window user, he say window good u ask a mac user, he say mac is god u ask a honda user, he say honda good u ask a toyota user, he say toyota good u ask a nokia user, he say nokia good u ask a sony ericsson user, he say sonyericsson good u ask a casio user, he say casio good u ask a seiko user, he say seiko good u ask a intel user, he say intel good u ask those who owns nothing, he will tell u what he hears (same as above)
which is good leh? i bet when u chosen one brand, u say it good anyway. but since u have though of sony, i guess other whatever other says, ur mind has locked there already.
but seriously, the Ax30 model grip is a little, ehem... uncomfortable. but the spec, is far better then any budget range.
nice shots invisibl3boyz, but to my understanding, bokeh is the blur produced by defocused areas... the distance between the foreground object and the background determines the amount of bokeh not expensive or cheap lens... so yea, i think ur efforts are chun, but the last picture, the car pops out too much, even the floor is blurred...
my noob opinion.
thanks ..hehe..true also....will try 'fake' it correctly next time..
Added on November 23, 2009, 11:01 am
QUOTE(ieR @ Nov 23 2009, 09:38 AM)
invisibl3boyz, the bokeh make the car like toys car, hehehe nice one. the color for the water+leaf looked fine on my work lcd(5 year old, i think contrast only like 1000:1) for the car shooting, i guess u need to read up bout white balance (if u use flash, read bout gel card)
tq ier..
This post has been edited by invisibl3boyz: Nov 23 2009, 11:01 AM
Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA = RM50xx vs Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA = RM48xx
Which of the above would be a better choice for portraits/wedding ? If the above lens are used on APS-C, would I get focal length of 127.5mm (85x1.5) ?
Is there any KM lens within this range ?
This post has been edited by ronnie: Nov 23 2009, 11:30 AM
ronnie: I would prefer the 85mm F1.4 ZA for APS-C. Yes the 85mm on APS-C would get a focal length similiar to 127.5mm on FF.
There is also the:
Minolta 85mm F1.4G Minolta 135mm F2.8
If you want budget you can go for: Vivitar/Samyang 85mm F1.4 (manual focus A-mount) Jupiter-9 85mm F2.0 (M42) Carl Zeiss 135mm F3.5 (M42) Vivitar 135mm F2.8 (M42)
This post has been edited by albnok: Nov 23 2009, 11:35 AM
Another private trackday at Sepang circuit organised by a motor oil company based in Singapore. Just like other track days, were there with fellow photogs to exercise panning shoot after a while.
*mind the sensor dust , no time to clone it .
#1 Photogs in action
#2 Ready to burn some rubbers!
#3 Lexus 250?
#4 Subarus....
#5
#6
#7 Malaysia Boleh (Levin engine with 4 throttle inside!)
#8 Nor sure if this is a genuine Type R
#9 Audi TT
#10 Mitsubishi Colt
This post has been edited by The Wonder: Nov 24 2009, 01:16 AM
Minolta 85mm F1.4G - can be any price, but last I remember RM3000 or so. Minolta 135mm F2.8 - around RM1500 or less if I remember correctly.
135mm on APS-C =~ 200mm on FF = telephoto lens + stage lens + short sports lens 85mm on APS-C =~ 135mm on FF = telephoto lens + stage lens + portrait lens 50mm/55mm/58mm on APS-C =~ 85mm on FF = stage lens + portrait lens
The Wonder: Wah for a while I thought that was Ahmike then I realized it wasn't an A850 and was Ethan. Noticed a tighter crop though! What's different?
Another private trackday at Sepang circuit organised by a motor oil company based in Singapore. Just like other track days, were there with fellow photogs to exercise panning shoot after a while.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 23 2009, 02:21 PM)
ronnie:
Minolta 85mm F1.4G - can be any price, but last I remember RM3000 or so. Minolta 135mm F2.8 - around RM1500 or less if I remember correctly.
135mm on APS-C =~ 200mm on FF = telephoto lens + stage lens + short sports lens 85mm on APS-C =~ 135mm on FF = telephoto lens + stage lens + portrait lens 50mm/55mm/58mm on APS-C =~ 85mm on FF = stage lens + portrait lens
The Wonder: Wah for a while I thought that was Ahmike then I realized it wasn't an A850 and was Ethan. Noticed a tighter crop though! What's different?
Ronnie: last time i check(bout 3 month ago), the minolta 135 F2.8 usually start from 1.6 up to 2k depending on the condition (package, filter, hood). (increase from early this year when it was just 1.6k)... have to dig around real deep to find it at rm1.5k
The Wonder: wow, perfect panning
This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 23 2009, 02:58 PM
I nvr complain or anything. But the 1116 is really nice wei. How you la now?
i'm ok la dei... how are you wei!? long time din tt wit you guys all kan... must see my man fritz soon
no la, once got money edi, get another body la... get canon, so you got sony, nikon, and canon... then get ur tokina lens one shot la... little little old old become hill.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
uhuhuhuh, my fish eye send back RMA, the apperture ring not tight, the apperture will turn back itself to F22 (the spring inside) and the focus ring is jammed. sob sob...
yeay! where and how much u bought the 7MDH for?? ask them yesterday, but they say no stock wor
I bought it at Crumpler KLCC lo. That was quite some time ago d. Bought it I think MYR375.00. That time only the black Industry Disgrace available. No money that time to buy lol~ Too bad thee dont have Customary Barge available. Damn~~
This post has been edited by Wonka: Nov 23 2009, 03:25 PM
The Wonder: Wah for a while I thought that was Ahmike then I realized it wasn't an A850 and was Ethan. Noticed a tighter crop though! What's different?
QUOTE(MechaHerc @ Nov 23 2009, 02:29 PM)
as usual, superb photo bro
me too i tot is ahmike lol..
Thanks guys! Albert, pic taken at 160mm. Ah Mike? lol...
Minolta 85mm F1.4G - can be any price, but last I remember RM3000 or so. Minolta 135mm F2.8 - around RM1500 or less if I remember correctly.
135mm on APS-C =~ 200mm on FF = telephoto lens + stage lens + short sports lens 85mm on APS-C =~ 135mm on FF = telephoto lens + stage lens + portrait lens 50mm/55mm/58mm on APS-C =~ 85mm on FF = stage lens + portrait lens
The Wonder: Wah for a while I thought that was Ahmike then I realized it wasn't an A850 and was Ethan. Noticed a tighter crop though! What's different?
is that ethan...???i think i noe that fella...using gen2 with mivec engine...send my regards to him...a fellow from g2c....
hazril: I think he was driving a Gen2. Rode with him once. He's the Sony Car Audio Product Manager.
Kul | Mo0: A colleague of mine has it in Nikon mount. Only thing about it is the F2.8 but the range is terribly short - 16mm means you absolutely have to change lens to get tighter, compared to the 11-18mm, 10-20mm, 12-24mm and 10-24mm lenses!
Then again, what is it in full-frame terms? 16-24mm F2.8. Considering a Zeiss 16-35mm F2.8 has much larger range on FF you can why wide shooters like FF - the wide angles on FF have more range and brighter apertures.
I like my Sigma 17-35mm F2.8-4 because I can bring just one lens and use the 35mm for a more normal angle of view. If I was stuck at 16mm APS-C/24mm FF I would have a problem with the perspective. 18mm APS-C/28mm FF is still somewhat manageable.
Joined: Sep 2006
From: Far from sights, near to heart
Hi, guys. I would like to ask something from A330 user. May I know the kit lens you bought is 18-55 or older 18-70 from previous Alpha version what is the difference?
arren86: The 18-55mm has a built-in motor (called SAM) and you need to switch the AF/MF on the lens to use manual focus. It can focus closer (25cm) compared to the 18-70mm (38cm).
achew: Of course we do!
This post has been edited by albnok: Nov 24 2009, 09:08 AM
I missed the baby pic time, but still wanna post mine.. hehhehe. long time never post here, just reading thru only.
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CnC are welcomed. kinda soft actually... i don't know how to PS yet. hehehhe
@ millenia: nice car there? what car is it? don't wanna rebuild ar?
hey! cute baby there.... k honest opinion, i think there can be a better way to compose the photo to be a lil more interesting, and the colors look slightly dull if you ask me, have you PPed them?
the car, hmm... dunno who's la, it's actually at some car restoration workshop nearby my place....
i'll be delighted to achew, just crackin my head over which 2470 t go for at the moment, and no, i can't afford cz...
This post has been edited by millenia3000: Nov 24 2009, 09:30 AM
whats wrong about the siggy??i saw some review in one of those china sites..it stated that the siggy is comparable to CZ..but not sure whether its true tho..
The Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG HSM is said to be an excellent performer - it also does not have gear stripping problems as it has HSM.
Other options:
Tokina 28-70mm F2.8 ATX (I believe cjlai is selling) Sigma 28-70mm F2.8 Zen (rare) Minolta 28-70mm F2.8G (even rarer, but MFD is a bit long) Minolta 28-85mm F3.5-4.5 Minolta 28-105mm F3.5-4.5 Minolta 28-135mm F4-4.5 (you might not like the MFD of 1.5 meters!) Minolta 24-50mm F4 (35cm MFD, amazing!) Minolta 24-85mm F3.5-4.5 Minolta/Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) Minolta/Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 (33cm MFD; make sure you are satisfied with the image quality as this has a fair bit of variance)
I don't remember if you have a 50mm but your 75-300mm may become a bit more appreciated on FF (some people might find the beercan short on FF.)
wah... everybody upgrading but i'll stick to mine for a while, no time to learn n master mine yet.
@millenia: i think i did some PP using Picasa, that's the best i can do, no time to learn PP using PS yet.
honestly, suchap, don't think i will be upgrading if i don't want to go high on ISO... most of the time i take shots in closed environments and suffer serious motion blur caused by slower shutter speeds which is to compensate for the low ISO speed being used, and the the bigger f number to get a wider depth of field.
i am not selling my A200 as still i believe it's a brilliant camera and i'll never forget how it got me into photography
maybe you can try and look for some ebooks and web tutorials to learn how to PP more effectively. self learning is the best way imho.
Added on November 24, 2009, 9:52 am
QUOTE(achew @ Nov 24 2009, 09:39 AM)
in that case i'd probably support minolta..
whats wrong about the siggy??i saw some review in one of those china sites..it stated that the siggy is comparable to CZ..but not sure whether its true tho..
hmmm, it's BIG! it'd be such a pain lugging an 82mm diameter lens in tight spaces like clubs and all wei.
QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 24 2009, 09:43 AM)
millenia3000: Congratulations in advance!
The Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG HSM is said to be an excellent performer - it also does not have gear stripping problems as it has HSM.
Other options:
Tokina 28-70mm F2.8 ATX (I believe cjlai is selling) Sigma 28-70mm F2.8 Zen (rare) Minolta 28-70mm F2.8G (even rarer, but MFD is a bit long) Minolta 28-85mm F3.5-4.5 Minolta 28-105mm F3.5-4.5 Minolta 28-135mm F4-4.5 (you might not like the MFD of 1.5 meters!) Minolta 24-50mm F4 (35cm MFD, amazing!) Minolta 24-85mm F3.5-4.5 Minolta/Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) Minolta/Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 (33cm MFD; make sure you are satisfied with the image quality as this has a fair bit of variance)
I don't remember if you have a 50mm but your 75-300mm may become a bit more appreciated on FF (some people might find the beercan short on FF.)
Thanks alb. I hope the credit card purchase goes smoothly la. anyway, any idea where's the cheapest to get an a850?
I saw the one cj's selling, the tokina, but an MFD of 70cm, is just not my cup of tea. not to mention the Minolta 28-135mm F4-4.5's 1.5 meters. I honestly believe i might get the km 28-75... not gonna be too fussy bout iq since i'm already on a tight budget... the question is, between the tammy and km, who's faster?
This post has been edited by millenia3000: Nov 24 2009, 09:52 AM
wah... everybody upgrading but i'll stick to mine for a while, no time to learn n master mine yet.
@millenia: i think i did some PP using Picasa, that's the best i can do, no time to learn PP using PS yet.
i also dont know how to pp it..but if i had a chance i'd probably improve on the composition(altho i know sometimes its very hard to get a good frame out of the kids!)
here's my random try on ur shot..high key version =)
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honestly, suchap, don't think i will be upgrading if i don't want to go high on ISO... most of the time i take shots in closed environments and suffer serious motion blur caused by slower shutter speeds which is to compensate for the low ISO speed being used, and the the bigger f number to get a wider depth of field.
i am not selling my A200 as still i believe it's a brilliant camera and i'll never forget how it got me into photography
maybe you can try and look for some ebooks and web tutorials to learn how to PP more effectively. self learning is the best way imho.
Added on November 24, 2009, 9:52 am
hmmm, it's BIG! it'd be such a pain lugging an 82mm diameter lens in tight spaces like clubs and all wei. Thanks alb. I hope the credit card purchase goes smoothly la. anyway, any idea where's the cheapest to get an a850?
I saw the one cj's selling, the tokina, but an MFD of 70cm, is just not my cup of tea. not to mention the Minolta 28-135mm F4-4.5's 1.5 meters. I honestly believe i might get the km 28-75... not gonna be too fussy bout iq since i'm already on a tight budget... the question is, between the tammy and km, who's faster?
since u r hungry for high ISO...y dont consider a550? in that case u wont have to change ur lens lineup(if u have any non FF lenses)...or the poison from FF is just way too strong?lol
@millenia3000 congrats bro... nowadays all move to FF......
but y siggy out? Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 EX DG HSM is a good lens.... fr the review
it sure is good cj
but i'm very tight on budget at the moment to go for HSM.... i also find myself moving around tight spaces in clubs during performances trying to shoot the action goin on... have bumped my lens a few times, not to mention my f58... so yea, the siggy is BIG!
since u r hungry for high ISO...y dont consider a550? in that case u wont have to change ur lens lineup(if u have any non FF lenses)...or the poison from FF is just way too strong?lol
lot of factors achew, one of it, 24.6MP. Wanna blow them photos up for posters won't be a prob. For wedding jobs, for album covers.
Intelligent preview. joystick for speedy navigation. no LV, much more comfortable VF not to mention more coverage. body build and feel.and lots more la, u shud know why kan
Added on November 24, 2009, 10:16 am
QUOTE(mcline_007 @ Nov 24 2009, 10:14 AM)
dude i like the pose & the angle. nice work buddy
thanks nantha, i didnt have a ladder so i actually asked my friend to park his car in reverse so i can stand on his car boot for this shot.
This post has been edited by millenia3000: Nov 24 2009, 10:16 AM
The temptation of a850 is truly amazing. Makes me wanna work harder, more OT for that purpose lol~~~~
IMHO the photography poison is wayyy stronger than collecting toys Taking side jobs left and right. Everyday slept at 2 (since 10-12 playing with camera ) Hopefully my new year lens would be tammi and sofi (cannot sofia la too expensive)
IMHO the photography poison is wayyy stronger than collecting toys Taking side jobs left and right. Everyday slept at 2 (since 10-12 playing with camera ) Hopefully my new year lens would be tammi and sofi (cannot sofia la too expensive)
Maybe I wont get the a850 but definitely I will upgrade. I dont have any targets for new lenses d.
millenia3000: The Minolta 28-75mm F2.8, is mostly good but I've seen one bad copy at YL Camera. The Tamron has far more variance. It is the same size as your Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 if you're okay with that size (I find it a big largish.)
My Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) is so-so wide open (weak at the corners) but good at F8 onwards; hence it is a budget studio champion. I don't know how the 24-85mm/28-105mm/28-85mm/24-50mm fare since I haven't used them for group shots on FF.
The (D) stands for Distance Integration meaning it has 8 pins and supports ADI flash. The earlier Minoltas without the (D) do not. All Sony lenses have (D) except the Sony 16mm F2.8 Fisheye, 20mm F2.8, 28mm F2.8, 135mm F2.8/T4.5 STF and 500mm F8 AF Reflex.
any1 owning tamron 70-200? .. .. how is it if compared to sony 70-300G? I know, most of people will answer something like this, "depends on ur use. Indoor, outdoor, etc" .. I am asking about the color, sharpness, IQ for both of them .. which 1 is worth my money? .. ..
any1 owning tamron 70-200? .. .. how is it if compared to sony 70-300G? I know, most of people will answer something like this, "depends on ur use. Indoor, outdoor, etc" .. I am asking about the color, sharpness, IQ for both of them .. which 1 is worth my money? .. ..
thanks in advance ..
my dream 70200 lens too! also want to know the comment! hehehe... does it hunt in low light?
Seng Kiat: Both worth of your money.. However, if you like a bit light lens, then the G, if you want to go to 2.8 then Tamron. However, one of my friend who own the G has compared both on the spot, he said to me, the tamron is more sharp then the G.
Some sample taken with Tamron 70-200 2.8
Sample below is taken with Tamron TC 2x..noticed not much IQ drop even with TC
This post has been edited by Ranceed: Nov 24 2009, 01:57 PM
Braynumb : Low light i can say, it can performed. Hardly it hunt. Maybe sometimes if with confusing light. Something about Sony and Tamron that can click together. The speed, if it zoom below 135mm, i can say it can match the Sony and sigma. Above 135mm, it still faster than my Sony 18-250mm.
wah.... if tammy is sharper than sony then for the price of sony 70200 2.8 i can get 2 lens la if top up a bit. tammy 70200 2.8 and another one is UWA, maybe 10-24 or 11-18. nice!
Hallo... how are everyone on this rainy day again... hehehe.. been behind the scene for a while.. but now got something to ask to all masters... I know that we need a drybox to keep our photo gears in... by my problem is.. I dont want to get one.. reason.. SCARED to leave the gears at home in case theft pecah masuk my house then all gone habis i wor..... therefore I've been carrying it here n there in a good bag with lots of silica gel. Since its not a good method to keep it.. can anyone suggest me how to go about it tak???
mie_75 : i'm using Wonderful Electronic Moisture Absorber II. You can go to shashinki.com to see what it is..
ahhh looks good... very handy indeed so i just pun it in my bag la eh ... then when it turns pink... just recharge it.. how many of that u put in your bag??
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!
This post has been edited by mie_75: Nov 24 2009, 02:31 PM
millenia3000: The Minolta 28-75mm F2.8, is mostly good but I've seen one bad copy at YL Camera. The Tamron has far more variance. It is the same size as your Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 if you're okay with that size (I find it a big largish.)
My Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) is so-so wide open (weak at the corners) but good at F8 onwards; hence it is a budget studio champion. I don't know how the 24-85mm/28-105mm/28-85mm/24-50mm fare since I haven't used them for group shots on FF.
The (D) stands for Distance Integration meaning it has 8 pins and supports ADI flash. The earlier Minoltas without the (D) do not. All Sony lenses have (D) except the Sony 16mm F2.8 Fisheye, 20mm F2.8, 28mm F2.8, 135mm F2.8/T4.5 STF and 500mm F8 AF Reflex.
minolta 24-105mm and supports ADI, where do you find those lenses man? i'm ok with the 17-50 size la alb, been using 17-50 all this while oso... so boleh la... but not the sigma 24-70 la... too big la dat wan... and thanks for the warning bout the bad copy at YL, i was tempted to get that one...
QUOTE(Braynumb @ Nov 24 2009, 01:33 PM)
wahhhh... for real?!! dayum! congrats first! hahaha... waiting for macha poison from you now... hehehe...
minolta 24-105mm and supports ADI, where do you find those lenses man? i'm ok with the 17-50 size la alb, been using 17-50 all this while oso... so boleh la... but not the sigma 24-70 la... too big la dat wan... and thanks for the warning bout the bad copy at YL, i was tempted to get that one... with His grace my friend. thank you.
Hallo... how are everyone on this rainy day again... hehehe.. been behind the scene for a while.. but now got something to ask to all masters... I know that we need a drybox to keep our photo gears in... by my problem is.. I dont want to get one.. reason.. SCARED to leave the gears at home in case theft pecah masuk my house then all gone habis i wor..... therefore I've been carrying it here n there in a good bag with lots of silica gel. Since its not a good method to keep it.. can anyone suggest me how to go about it tak???
Thanks in advance
wow .. u have same situation as mine .. .. i always bring my gear here and there just because my house is not secure enough .. alright .. now, i think, i am going to get the electronic Moisture Absorber .. ..
btw chris, dont msg me in facebook .. the network is not stable here .. i cant even reply your msg .. haha .. it is better to pm me here rather than chatting in facebook .. .. congrats on your purchase too bro!! .. ..
[quote=Seng_Kiat,Nov 24 2009, 02:57 PM] wow .. u have same situation as mine .. .. i always bring my gear here and there just because my house is not secure enough .. alright .. now, i think, i am going to get the electronic Moisture Absorber .. ..
glad i could be help you indirectly.. im getting one too...
wow .. u have same situation as mine .. .. i always bring my gear here and there just because my house is not secure enough .. alright .. now, i think, i am going to get the electronic Moisture Absorber .. ..
btw chris, dont msg me in facebook .. the network is not stable here .. i cant even reply your msg .. haha .. it is better to pm me here rather than chatting in facebook .. .. congrats on your purchase too bro!! .. ..
aaaah sorry my friend! thank you! and yea, i got his number from vandechrome already
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
mie_75 & Seng_Kiat: a drybox doesnt mean u have to leave ur gear at home, i find it at night, the moisture in the air raise up to 100% (meaning double up) when raining. so, u better get a drybox, and u can put ur gears ONLY when u at home, exspecially at night (u need to go home to sleep rite?) during the daytime, u are still able to carry ur gears with u out and 'leave' the drybox at home.
dry box even helps when u got ur camera splashed with water, then put in the drybox overnight, i am very sure ur gear are safe, then u go wipe wipe with cloth, put back in bag.
silica does help to keep things dry, but not dry enough to prevent fungus cases. i work in workshop where most equipment part i sell comes with a silica bags (yea, i have over 10kg silica now) and i even seen before a silica pack that is covered with fungus.
the electronic absorber, well i (think) it's the same eletronic parts in the drybox, just u need to get a airtight box (drybox has seal to keep it tight)
This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 24 2009, 03:15 PM
ahhh looks good... very handy indeed so i just pun it in my bag la eh ... then when it turns pink... just recharge it.. how many of that u put in your bag??
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!
U can use carry yr camera when u r out, in a bag, no need to put silica gel or absorber when u r on the move and using the cam.
However, if u stay at home and dont use the cam, use a drybox. Yr bag will absorb much (moisture + dust + fungus spores) when you are out, and keeping yr lens + camera in the bag will encourage fungus, esp if u keep for long periods.
When u at home, keep it in drybox as the moisture control is level while silica gel and moisture absorbers cant control the RH (relative humidity) very well.
My advice: Save up for a drybox, its a cheap storage (starts from RM2XX) to protect yr thousands RM worth of body and lens.
IER & Podster.. true also ahh.. i can put it at night and during the day bring it with me... that does make sense somehow.. ok will safe up for a drybox then... any recommendation? i only have 1 body, i kitlens, 50mm n soon (donno how soon... maybe an 18-250)... TQ!!
phew..just came back from Singapore this morning. Went to the AFA and all. there's a loads of pictures but haven't transfer them all yet. here's 1 for start:
how come CS4 doesnt create an HDR that i want can somebody suggest me how to do to the way HDR software does?? here i show some different between what i got with Photoshop CS4 and photomatrix The first one being the one from CS4
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
ps:merged of 5 images
This post has been edited by v1rtual: Nov 24 2009, 05:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(SHOfrE3zE @ Nov 24 2009, 05:37 PM)
phew..just came back from Singapore this morning. Went to the AFA and all. there's a loads of pictures but haven't transfer them all yet. here's 1 for start:
phew..just came back from Singapore this morning. Went to the AFA and all. there's a loads of pictures but haven't transfer them all yet. here's 1 for start:
wahh...thread moving d*mn fast...didnt visit this thread less than 2 weeks, n now V34 already..
anyway guys.. anyone will go for the sony flash basic workshop n can't make it on that day? Let me know ya to replace for u..Or juz walk in? Coz fully registered.. duhh..
Hi albnok, I noticed that the photos taken with Zeiss are so much cleaner and better contrast than other lenses, is it because of the zeiss lens or the setting of the camera?
let me guess.. that Christmas tree at the left is the same like the Christmas tree bokeh at ur GF photo?
yupyup ^^
Added on November 24, 2009, 6:36 pm
QUOTE(5564321 @ Nov 24 2009, 06:28 PM)
Hi albnok, I noticed that the photos taken with Zeiss are so much cleaner and better contrast than other lenses, is it because of the zeiss lens or the setting of the camera?
i believe when comparing lenses...people would usually use exactly same setting on the camera/s and carl zeiss lenses r usually more contrasty than others..
This post has been edited by achew: Nov 24 2009, 06:36 PM
phew..just came back from Singapore this morning. Went to the AFA and all. there's a loads of pictures but haven't transfer them all yet. here's 1 for start:
phew..just came back from Singapore this morning. Went to the AFA and all. there's a loads of pictures but haven't transfer them all yet. here's 1 for start:
5564321: Settings are the same, though the Zeiss was at F1.8 while the others were at F2.8. The Zeiss is indeed very contrasty.
Things I spotted at Sony Style KLCC today!
Banzai_san, this is for you! It looks every bit as good in real life, as it looks in the picture. Which is really, really good.
And then, there is the first ever Sony lens with a 67mm filter thread... (say what?)
The much awaited Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM! Note that there is a Lock switch to hold it at 28mm, and the focus ring is reverse from most Sony lenses. It is noticeably smaller than the Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8.
Minimum focus distances: Sony Vario-Sonnar T* Carl Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8 SSM ZA = 34cm Tamron/Minolta 28-75mm F2.8 = 33cm Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM = 38cm
We all know that the Sony is a rebadged Tamron - it's obvious from the reverse focus ring and filter size. However, why is the MFD changed from 33cm to 38cm?
The Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 in Canon EF mount comes with a micro-motor since all Canon EOS cameras do not have in-body motors. The Nikon F mount version also has that micro-motor. Both Tamrons can still do 33cm with a micro-motor! So why can't Sony?
Obviously, because a Sony 28-75mm F2.8 that does 33cm MFD compared to a Zeiss 24-70mm F2.8 that does 34cm MFD looks better on paper!
I have to say this, I absolutely hate SAM for lenses that are meant to be matched on higher-end bodies (A850/A900) which have the AF/MF toggle and DMF functionality, because SAM makes any on-body MF control impossible. It's not so bad to have SAM on a kit lens but not on a lens that is targeted to full-frame users.
And yet, it is hard to write off this lens - optically, it is superb, even wide open! I didn't bring my A900 + Minolta 24-105mm F3.5-4.5(D) to compare, but what I shot looks very impressive, with good corners at F2.8. Focusing isn't very fast though, and it feels a bit slow to draw at macro distances sometimes. I guess it's best to have a Zeiss 24-70mm owner to compare as the Zeiss 24-70mm has faster SSM (compared to other lenses in its 24-70mm range.)
Its weight is superb - it's light enough and yet it balances very well on the A850! If the 24-70mm ever felt too heavy, this will feel miraculously matched.
Pixel peeping will come another day!
Pros: - good balance on the A850/A900 - good optical quality wide open even on the corners - cameras with a F2.8 sensor (A700/A850/A900) will gain more accuracy -
Cons: - SAM motor implementation makes the very useful AF/MF and DMF functions on the A700/A850/A900 useless - focus ring turns in the reverse direction of all Sony lenses (like the Sony 18-200mm and 18-250mm) - 38cm MFD is a downgrade from the Konica Minolta/Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 which focused to 33cm close
Personally, if I could find a good copy of the Konica Minolta/Tamron 28-75mm F2.8, I would pick that over this Sony, only for the AF/MF and DMF functionality.
phew..just came back from Singapore this morning. Went to the AFA and all. there's a loads of pictures but haven't transfer them all yet. here's 1 for start:
achew. is tat taken on actual shot or photoshopped?
QUOTE(SHOfrE3zE @ Nov 24 2009, 05:37 PM)
phew..just came back from Singapore this morning. Went to the AFA and all. there's a loads of pictures but haven't transfer them all yet. here's 1 for start:
Very nice..!! Christmas is here!!! everyone getting smthing for urself as christmas present? hehehe
@clivengu the shot was real one..but edited quite a fair bit coz the orig water was not as clear/sharp...accidentally poke too many holes on my mineral water bottle..so there were leaks from multiple sources..had a small flood in my room =.=
i try both my nikon d80 and sony a200. zoom out both to 70mm , f5.6, ss 1/8 all same setting, spot metering awb.
i focus on a vicks vaporub!
the result turn out image from sony a200 is sharper and nicer than d80!
plus i cant even sometime focus on the subject using d80! i need to move back a little and then the auto focus will work
plus i also notice that few of my images taken with d80 b4 is not auto focus really well.still got a blur even tho the focus already lock and 'beep'
this never happen with my a200.
now im considering to devote my life to alpha perhaps
sell a200 and get a550!
edit: i will bring both body to my 1st wedding job this weekend and straight away compare the result using laptop. if i found d80 turns me down, i will definitely give a win to my a200 and use it for the rest of the event. lol
This post has been edited by wuszhtag: Nov 25 2009, 10:02 AM
Need xtra help mayb I can help? quite free these few days...
QUOTE(SHOfrE3zE @ Nov 25 2009, 11:27 AM)
hi guys. my new blog shall be online soon. here's another 1 during my singapore visit:
Nice UWA! Mayb i'll b getting a UWA lens sooner than I thought.. At first im thinking to get the 70200G end of d year for my friend's wedding & UWA b4 next year Europe backpacking trip. But on secondthought.. the G is really expensive n too heavy... so mayb stick with beercan for d moment.. The UWA might be more useful during wedding ceremony... what u guys think?
QUOTE(Braynumb @ Nov 25 2009, 01:11 PM)
IT HAS FINALLY ARRIVED!
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
My New a700!!! m0o! I'm joining you liao! I'm in loveee...
CONGRATS!!! Welcome to the A700 group !!! hehe! a new Proud A700 owner! u'll loveeeeeeeeeee it!
Need xtra help mayb I can help? quite free these few days... Nice UWA! Mayb i'll b getting a UWA lens sooner than I thought.. At first im thinking to get the 70200G end of d year for my friend's wedding & UWA b4 next year Europe backpacking trip. But on secondthought.. the G is really expensive n too heavy... so mayb stick with beercan for d moment.. The UWA might be more useful during wedding ceremony... what u guys think? CONGRATS!!! Welcome to the A700 group !!! hehe! a new Proud A700 owner! u'll loveeeeeeeeeee it!
when i helping my fren to buy a550 few days ago...the shop owner told me there was a promo..180 sgd for a bag + battery..not sure whether its MS10 or not...he only told me it was a big bag for a850 size..lol
yes just got it through online....erm...any one mind explain to me all the diffrent type of lens i very blur now and i cant search in the internet...what are the diffrence between Ziess lens and normal lens and also sam lens...i also blur about g lens...
guys~ a550 or a700? do u guys think by any chance i still can find brand new a700 old stock?
bro, get A550 if u dun care about plastic body but just superb high ISO result or get A700 for magnesium alloy body (pro look) but high ISO is consider ok la compare to A2XX@A3XX series
QUOTE(Braynumb @ Nov 25 2009, 04:32 PM)
Yeah... but somehow, feel satisfied with this liao... don't think I wanna go FF anytime soon... wanna stick with APS-C for now...
ya lor, me also feel super satisfied if own a A700..
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(MechaHerc @ Nov 25 2009, 04:39 PM)
bro, get A550 if u dun care about plastic body but just superb high ISO result or get A700 for magnesium alloy body (pro look) but high ISO is consider ok la compare to A2XX@A3XX series ya lor, me also feel super satisfied if own a A700..
Thats why i am in dilemma now~ aih~ since its confirm that a700 replacement model will be no more APS-C~ but the extra new features in the a550 is hard to resist~
QUOTE(ohzmygod @ Nov 25 2009, 04:39 PM)
I saw this brand new a700 @ Sony Centre, AEON mall, Bukit Tinggi Klang 2 weeks ago. U might want to try your luck there..
thx mate~ will check it out~ do u know if its a body only unit? price?
Yeah... but somehow, feel satisfied with this liao... don't think I wanna go FF anytime soon... wanna stick with APS-C for now...
QUOTE(MechaHerc @ Nov 25 2009, 04:39 PM)
bro, get A550 if u dun care about plastic body but just superb high ISO result or get A700 for magnesium alloy body (pro look) but high ISO is consider ok la compare to A2XX@A3XX series ya lor, me also feel super satisfied if own a A700..
u guys just wait till you see thru an FF VF @ 28mm or even better, 17mm...
guys~ a550 or a700? do u guys think by any chance i still can find brand new a700 old stock?
For me, the shooting feel when using the camera is very important. when i Hold d camera i know it is FIRM without plastic creaking sounds...& the control buttons are excellent. it just make me feel like wanna keep shooting.. Another reason is of course the 2 Dials on A700 confirms me to get it instead of the A500.. I used Manual a lot... n i find i can shoot so much faster when using A700 compare to A100 (speed in term of Control the exposure) + bigger viewfinder x
If Liveview is your cup of tea... or u like using Aperture priority.. Of course A550 no doubt is the better choice..
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(clivengu @ Nov 25 2009, 04:55 PM)
For me, the shooting feel when using the camera is very important. when i Hold d camera i know it is FIRM without plastic creaking sounds...& the control buttons are excellent. it just make me feel like wanna keep shooting.. Another reason is of course the 2 Dials on A700 confirms me to get it instead of the A500.. I used Manual a lot... n i find i can shoot so much faster when using A700 compare to A100 (speed in term of Control the exposure) + bigger viewfinder x
If Liveview is your cup of tea... or u like using Aperture priority.. Of course A550 no doubt is the better choice..
Exactly~ but but~ sigh~ decisions~ decisions~ and its not ez to find a new a700 now~ what about price? does it drop a lot since its getting obselete?
This post has been edited by Gouki: Nov 25 2009, 05:02 PM
Exactly~ but but~ sigh~ decisions~ decisions~ and its not ez to find a new a700 now~ what about price? does it drop a lot since its getting obselete?
RARE things prices wont go down easily hehehe
like the "ancient" beercan
since a700 is like... the 1st alpha that use cmos sensor..
and I think that its the prototype before the come out with FF a900 and 850 since the button layout and design kinda similar... just the top button layout were changed a bit for the lcd thingy.
This post has been edited by Ksano: Nov 25 2009, 05:06 PM
from what i see on a700 performance..even newer replacement comes out..it probably with higher MP..and a few more function to ease ur life...so other than the MP,i believe the current a700 should be able to do what the replacement could(well not really if they include liveview)..maybe just a lil bit more troublesome..but i guess since we r so into photography/dslr..troublesome should not be the word inside our dictionary.. =p
from what i see on a700 performance..even newer replacement comes out..it probably with higher MP..and a few more function to ease ur life...so other than the MP,i believe the current a700 should be able to do what the replacement could(well not really if they include liveview)..maybe just a lil bit more troublesome..but i guess since we r so into photography/dslr..troublesome should not be the word inside our dictionary.. =p
yeap... the interface make ease for user to do changes without scrolling the menu a lot... But I never try a550 yet... so don't know much about it...
yet... Congrats Braynumb time to search for moar lense !
comparing my a300 vs a850...the interface really awesome...changing the setting is really fast..but well...all these does not affect our photo'z quality..it gives us better life..but not necessarily better photos..
for 550..i tried it for like 10min last week..the menu somehow look abit closer to a330 series..and the button placement is diff from my a300/a850...not really used to it..but i guess its not a big deal..lol..its just a matter of time to get used to those small stuff..tired the auto HDR thingy..looked fun~!
This post has been edited by achew: Nov 25 2009, 05:23 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(achew @ Nov 25 2009, 05:11 PM)
from what i see on a700 performance..even newer replacement comes out..it probably with higher MP..and a few more function to ease ur life...so other than the MP,i believe the current a700 should be able to do what the replacement could(well not really if they include liveview)..maybe just a lil bit more troublesome..but i guess since we r so into photography/dslr..troublesome should not be the word inside our dictionary.. =p
hmmmm~~ arghhh~~ let me scout around see can source a700 or not since a550 is widely available~
IER & Podster.. true also ahh.. i can put it at night and during the day bring it with me... that does make sense somehow.. ok will safe up for a drybox then... any recommendation? i only have 1 body, i kitlens, 50mm n soon (donno how soon... maybe an 18-250)... TQ!!
I am using an Aipo 21, priced at RM240 (find them all over the photography sales thread LYN).
In it, my A300 body with VG, 2 kitty (1870 and 55200), 50F1.7, 2 batteries and Crumpler strap with room to spare. I can still fit in mayb another lens (18250) if i move the stuff arnd.
Your existing setup (add the 18250) shld fit in this model as well, if budget constrains, mayb u can get this and then sell off later for bigger drybox when your gears dont fit.
I'm a new A350 user here.. Any sifu can teach me about the simple shoot for this gadget? =.=a
Always start from reading through ur provided menu & if u can understand most of it.. you are ready to go! if u mean simple shoot..i'll recommend "AUTO"
Always start from reading through ur provided menu & if u can understand most of it.. you are ready to go! if u mean simple shoot..i'll recommend "AUTO"
I'll try for it.. But now i just want to ask about the body there if i took out the lens & is that got a cover to cover the lens part that section from the body? Because until now i don't have find out that cover..
I'll try for it.. But now i just want to ask about the body there if i took out the lens & is that got a cover to cover the lens part that section from the body? Because until now i don't have find out that cover..
Yeah!! it definately should have a cover for d body.. u cant let d sensor exposed like tat... if ur camera n lens new it should come with it.. both cap for the lens n body. hope u can find it
I'll try for it.. But now i just want to ask about the body there if i took out the lens & is that got a cover to cover the lens part that section from the body? Because until now i don't have find out that cover..
i think you're refering to the body cap. normally that piece will come together in a set with the camera box u buy, unless you lose it yourself, then there are plenty 3rd party caps available online/forums
Yeah!! it definately should have a cover for d body.. u cant let d sensor exposed like tat... if ur camera n lens new it should come with it.. both cap for the lens n body. hope u can find it
Really can't find? Can you post me a photo about the covers? >.<"
NICE ONE LA CHRIS! Means your a200 will be your 2nd body? Wow What FF lens you got for yourself then? Want beercan? *advertisement abit*. =p
yeap... i still luv my A200 dei... will not sell the cam that tot me everything... using minolta 28-75 f2.8... beercan ah? wait la use my 75300 1st, yes it's aps-c... but i dun use telephoto often... wait la earn money wit dis baby 1st... den see how
This post has been edited by millenia3000: Nov 25 2009, 09:45 PM
Its one of the most beautiful camera bags I've ever seen la. Crumpler is nothing close to that in terms of looks la IMHO.
I dont like crumpler internal padding bcause its made of BULU BULU kind of fabric.. instead of Lowepro SMOOTH kind of silky fabric.. the Bulu bulu type feel like they r just collecting dust for u.
QUOTE(hafeez71 @ Nov 25 2009, 10:11 PM)
seriously..i am considering the dark grey, the internal padding for the grey one is orange also?
Do u mean this one? i think only the Brown comes with orange padding. n Orange outline.. DETAIL DETAIL!
Impossible.. This bag is very compact.. it only fits d most.. 1 dslr + normal zoom lens (with hood turn in) + 1 flash + 2 additional lenses (mayb hv to stack on each others.. like 50mm stack on a UWA lens) + mayb a blower.. VG? forget bout it the compartment infront r for Smaller n Flat items.. i don think can fit charger. Battery yes.
clive, the padding thick or not?? looks flimsy ler....what is "oops" accidentally drop on the floor, from knee heigh....the padding protect??
LOL.. its SOft n average thickness.. but not FIRM .. u see d picture its soft soft like tat.. which makes the bag doesnt look like a robotcop backpack.. tats d nice thing bout d bag.. heheh. it doesnt look like usual SOLID looking camera bag.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(clivengu @ Nov 25 2009, 10:51 PM)
Impossible.. This bag is very compact.. it only fits d most.. 1 dslr + normal zoom lens (with hood turn in) + 1 flash + 2 additional lenses (mayb hv to stack on each others.. like 50mm stack on a UWA lens) + mayb a blower.. VG? forget bout it the compartment infront r for Smaller n Flat items.. i don think can fit charger. Battery yes.
looks like a casual bag to me~ cool~ berapa sen? only available at sony centre?
Impossible.. This bag is very compact.. it only fits d most.. 1 dslr + normal zoom lens (with hood turn in) + 1 flash + 2 additional lenses (mayb hv to stack on each others.. like 50mm stack on a UWA lens) + mayb a blower.. VG? forget bout it the compartment infront r for Smaller n Flat items.. i don think can fit charger. Battery yes.
hmm i tot n the middle compartment can muat, the divider can adjustable ar bro?
This post has been edited by MechaHerc: Nov 25 2009, 11:07 PM
clive, the padding thick or not?? looks flimsy ler....what is "oops" accidentally drop on the floor, from knee heigh....the padding protect??
the padding looks similar to those photorunner beltpack one ... but this bag's look small sure cant close the zip if tele attached , plus look troublesome to takeout the slr in tht position (lens facing up) .. when the grip deep down inside the bag
hmm i tot n the middle compartment can muat, the divider can adjustable ar bro?
Can Adjust... kinda flimsy la.. not tat sticky. but it works. If u wanna fit in a VG+ body+ lens.. by facing the lens downwards... than ur bag will not be able to zip in oredi.. hehe.. D only reason i din buy it (so tempting) is because it cant fit my A5 notebook which i bring everywhere i go.
Added on November 25, 2009, 11:23 pm
QUOTE(hafeez71 @ Nov 25 2009, 11:16 PM)
nice..i am planning to place a700+cz+uwa+f58 n some accesories
beside plan to use this bag for street shooting or something like it..
Yeah tat just fit just Nice! this bag is very comfortable when carrying it around.. bcause it is not THICK! thin enough n theshoulder strip is wide too.. it feels even more comfortable than my LCS-AMSC30 which is bulky n when moving around wasnt tat comfortable.
Lets Go to class~! like a schoolbag. haha im helping promoting d bag.
This post has been edited by clivengu: Nov 25 2009, 11:23 PM
waaa so slim the bag when worn........but too bad i am very careless with my bag's and camera(normally tend to drop them when reach knee length) thus my bag are normally fully padded...thus it looks damn ugly due to the "conventional" square ~ screaming I am a camera bag that house uber expensive camera...
but waiting for my 5MDH coming soon kekekeke........
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Impossible.. This bag is very compact.. it only fits d most.. 1 dslr + normal zoom lens (with hood turn in) + 1 flash + 2 additional lenses (mayb hv to stack on each others.. like 50mm stack on a UWA lens) + mayb a blower.. VG? forget bout it the compartment infront r for Smaller n Flat items.. i don think can fit charger. Battery yes.
aiyak.. i thought it was bigger.. sure cannot fit a700 + vg
might have to settle with wrapping cloth only.. quite stylo also
Anyone have the software to check the shutter count for my gadget? Thanks..
check the file naming lo to agak agak guess lo..anyway..shutter count not really impt la..very likely u'd change camera or change hobby b4 ur shutter dies..lol...even if the shutter broken down..u can replace it..not very exp if i not wrong..
clivengu: The A700 and A900 have the same number of buttons on the top. I honestly don't use the top LCD of the A900.
jtcs87: The 'body cap' should be in the box.
Kul | Mo0: Tell me about it! That wideness of the beercan on FF is much appreciated because it can focus within a big table.
MechaHerc: It looks like you can.
Left-most compartment: 55-200mm and 18-70mm with back caps facing each other Middle compartment: A200 + VG-B30AM + 50mm Right-most compartment: Ultra-wide angle
The flash will fit on your belt (F42 leather pouch has to be modified at a cobbler.)
No need bring blower lah. There is a side pocket outside (not in picture) that can hold the battery and charger.
Left-most compartment: 55-200mm and 18-70mm with back caps facing each other Middle compartment: A200 + VG-B30AM + 50mm Right-most compartment: Ultra-wide angle
The flash will fit on your belt (F42 leather pouch has to be modified at a cobbler.)
No need bring blower lah. There is a side pocket outside (not in picture) that can hold the battery and charger.
but can fit a700 + vg or not ya??
modify like lowepro or thinktank la.. easier to attach
Beercan on a200 = "What a stupid old lens!" Beercan on a700 = "Holy cow! This lens is quite fast and sharp!" Beercan on a900 = "..........*jaw drop*..........."
Beercan on a200 = "What a stupid old lens!" Beercan on a700 = "Holy cow! This lens is quite fast and sharp!" Beercan on a900 = "..........*jaw drop*..........."
clivengu: The A700 and A900 have the same number of buttons on the top. I honestly don't use the top LCD of the A900.
jtcs87: The 'body cap' should be in the box.
Kul | Mo0: Tell me about it! That wideness of the beercan on FF is much appreciated because it can focus within a big table.
MechaHerc: It looks like you can.
Left-most compartment: 55-200mm and 18-70mm with back caps facing each other Middle compartment: A200 + VG-B30AM + 50mm Right-most compartment: Ultra-wide angle
The flash will fit on your belt (F42 leather pouch has to be modified at a cobbler.)
No need bring blower lah. There is a side pocket outside (not in picture) that can hold the battery and charger.
clivengu: The A700 and A900 have the same number of buttons on the top. I honestly don't use the top LCD of the A900.
jtcs87: The 'body cap' should be in the box.
Kul | Mo0: Tell me about it! That wideness of the beercan on FF is much appreciated because it can focus within a big table.
MechaHerc: It looks like you can.
Left-most compartment: 55-200mm and 18-70mm with back caps facing each other Middle compartment: A200 + VG-B30AM + 50mm Right-most compartment: Ultra-wide angle
The flash will fit on your belt (F42 leather pouch has to be modified at a cobbler.)
No need bring blower lah. There is a side pocket outside (not in picture) that can hold the battery and charger.
myself got poisoned by albnok's beercan... y waste money on 70-200G...
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
ok guys~ one more thing i am wondering~ we know the a700 win hands down on body build and feel~ a550 win hands down on low ISO noise, higher resolution and features~ what about AF speed? Let say both a550 and a700 using the same SAL18250DT~ which will able to focus faster?
Left-most compartment: 55-200mm and 18-70mm with back caps facing each other Middle compartment: A200 + VG-B30AM + 50mm Right-most compartment: Ultra-wide angle
The flash will fit on your belt (F42 leather pouch has to be modified at a cobbler.)
No need bring blower lah. There is a side pocket outside (not in picture) that can hold the battery and charger.
still dunno the middle compartment can muat A200 + VG-B30AM, i ter-imagine wedding photog with those stylo bag (boring oredi with square box look-alike beg lo)
*hot chick will say, "wow!! who's that stylo photog" *
or shud i buy 1st, think later in this condition..
still dunno the middle compartment can muat A200 + VG-B30AM, i ter-imagine wedding photog with those stylo bag (boring oredi with square box look-alike beg lo)
*hot chick will say, "wow!! who's that stylo photog" *
or shud i buy 1st, think later in this condition..
just buy2!! hehehe
if tak muat.. and want to sell it... it might fit my a700+beercan+50mm and Flash kekekeke
This post has been edited by Ksano: Nov 26 2009, 02:18 PM
noprob: Both Sony and Minolta 20mm F2.8 (New) lenses are the same - they forgot ADI.
achew: SGD550 sounds like a really good deal for a Minolta 135mm F2.8! That lens spells lovely bokeh. Completes your portrait prime lineup of:
50mm - 90mm (close enough to 85mm) - 135mm
The street shooters and photojournalists may prefer 24mm (or 28mm), 35mm and 50mm primes. The Minolta 24mm F2.8 is another lovely specimen, but the Minolta 28mm F2.8 is in a lower league.
albnok..i just noticed there r some slight dmg on the glass..altho he claims that its nt affecting the image..do u think it stil worth it? http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609604 im nt hurry for any lens actually..unless the offer its reeally good..else i can slowly search =p
today i went to KB Mall, kota bharu and found a new a700 there ... ... i asked the price to a seller at the shop and he confidently quoted me RM6999.00 ... I was like .. OMG .. then I asked him to double check the price, he again confident with his answer and told me, "this is pro camera. no wonder the price so high one" .. i asked him to check the price at sony website and i stepped away ...
today i went to KB Mall, kota bharu and found a new a700 there ... ... i asked the price to a seller at the shop and he confidently quoted me RM6999.00 ... I was like .. OMG .. then I asked him to double check the price, he again confident with his answer and told me, "this is pro camera. no wonder the price so high one" .. i asked him to check the price at sony website and i stepped away ...
Bro , Kelantan / Terengganu banjir ... difficult to bring in stock there , hehe So they charge XXTra ...
today i went to KB Mall, kota bharu and found a new a700 there ... ... i asked the price to a seller at the shop and he confidently quoted me RM6999.00 ... I was like .. OMG .. then I asked him to double check the price, he again confident with his answer and told me, "this is pro camera. no wonder the price so high one" .. i asked him to check the price at sony website and i stepped away ...
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Nov 26 2009, 07:31 PM)
today i went to KB Mall, kota bharu and found a new a700 there ... ... i asked the price to a seller at the shop and he confidently quoted me RM6999.00 ... I was like .. OMG .. then I asked him to double check the price, he again confident with his answer and told me, "this is pro camera. no wonder the price so high one" .. i asked him to check the price at sony website and i stepped away ...
may he burn in hell, such a stupid ignorant b*stard... guys like him should rot in jail...
wahhh paiseh paiseh, mood today not good. seller like him, purely stalk on waterfish one... dont be a victim. u should tell ppl the shop name so the noobs wont go there let him slaughter...
This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 26 2009, 07:53 PM
today i went to KB Mall, kota bharu and found a new a700 there ... ... i asked the price to a seller at the shop and he confidently quoted me RM6999.00 ... I was like .. OMG .. then I asked him to double check the price, he again confident with his answer and told me, "this is pro camera. no wonder the price so high one" .. i asked him to check the price at sony website and i stepped away ...
a camera shop at the ground floor .. sony center in kb mall selling standard recommended price ..
Added on November 26, 2009, 8:40 pm
QUOTE(ieR @ Nov 26 2009, 07:51 PM)
may he burn in hell, such a stupid ignorant b*stard... guys like him should rot in jail...
wahhh paiseh paiseh, mood today not good. seller like him, purely stalk on waterfish one... dont be a victim. u should tell ppl the shop name so the noobs wont go there let him slaughter...
haha ... sorry bro .. i dont remember the shop's name .. but, fyi, there is only one camera shop in kb mall .. except sony center .. hehe .. ..
This post has been edited by Seng_Kiat: Nov 26 2009, 08:40 PM
a camera shop at the ground floor .. sony center in kb mall selling standard recommended price ..
Added on November 26, 2009, 8:40 pm
haha ... sorry bro .. i dont remember the shop's name .. but, fyi, there is only one camera shop in kb mall .. except sony center .. hehe .. ..
fuyoo.. that shop is super duper kiasu one looo... once i asked for F42AM flash and they said RM999 no discount.. i told them i bought for RM750 and they said is's underwater .. damn stupid one.. i said i bought with ori Sony Malaysia Warranty and he said must be 2nd hand products.. dam crazy la that shop..
and also they're selling SB800 flash for RM1499 and dare to say at my friend (who is using D80) that all shop selling below that price is underwater product... he said all shops in lowyat/bb all selling fake one.. .. i tought of killing that guy at that moment for his super stupidity .. he tought everybody osso stupid like him can bullshit ppl..
achew: Scuffs on the rear element can and do show when taking bokeh shots; scuffs on the front element, if big enough, show as a slight haziness (supposing you take a picture of a pattern.)
Probably you won't see it because the lens does not focus near at all (1 meter). However, after trying, and finding the scuff doesn't show in pictures, go ahead (but ask for lower since it isn't as mint as it should be.)
sorry, need ask a very noob question, how to focus ppl eye for a sharp portrait? attach picture is the doubt in my mind. is it the right picture is consider focus human eye while left picture is not?
recently just have shoot in a ballroom dinner, the environment is pretty more on orange color, i am strugglering in the whole night when my snap with flash gun,, i get photo like direct flash (more white). ambient color is totally lose.
camera/flash setting:
flash with diffuser bounce backward 75 degree, A- dial, 50mm f2.2, flash 'auto mode' 1/2 power, WB, 5000K (refer to another alpha user in the dinner), STD creativity, multi-seg metering, AF-C, AF area - spot, ISO 800 and 400 (ohh damm, just aware, CPL filter attach...)
after due to getting lose ambient color, off the flash gun, all shot are blurring (object as far as 1.5 - 7 meters). almost dinner ending, mood getting down n down, try WB tungsten +4, found its work with flash gun and photo produce orange ambient color. dinner end, main prize lucky draw tak kena, have blur photo, go back hanging myself
besides, there is another fren holds 40D with 50mm f1.8, at any shot his camera output in term of color, sharpness are excellent. both of us testing using same ISO, no flash gun, same distance to object. is it i am too noob or is a300 capability reach...
sifu please advice.
This post has been edited by jimlim007: Nov 26 2009, 11:41 PM
For portraits, we should focus on the EYE for sharp features of the face. Using f2.2 may create a shallow Depth Of Field (DOF), maybe you can increase it to get body shot equally sharp.
This post has been edited by ronnie: Nov 26 2009, 11:42 PM
For portraits, we should focus on the EYE for sharp features of the face. Using f2.2 may create a shallow Depth Of Field (DOF), maybe you can increase it to get body shot equally sharp.
in order to focus to the eye, it is like the right pictur ei draw right? but his kaki cant be cover? how ya?
in order to focus to the eye, it is like the right pictur ei draw right? but his kaki cant be cover? how ya?
Either zoom out to cover the whole body (head to toe)... or walk back a few steps away from the subject (if using a fixed focal length lens), then focus on the eye. You could lock the focus on the eye (half shutter press) and re-compose to include the whole body.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(Seng_Kiat @ Nov 26 2009, 08:38 PM)
a camera shop at the ground floor .. sony center in kb mall selling standard recommended price ..
Added on November 26, 2009, 8:40 pm
haha ... sorry bro .. i dont remember the shop's name .. but, fyi, there is only one camera shop in kb mall .. except sony center .. hehe .. ..
'
LOL apuuuu, got sony centre summore, go there complain to them la. ask them send warning letter to that camerashop simply quote price... is wrong in consumer law u know,... u can even complain to consumer desk, and they have to give u the camera FOC, coz simply put pricing.
I have used the FDA-ME1AM about 1 month ago. Frankly speaking, it is not much different while u install this thing but due to a3xx series has a very low magnifying (0.74x) compare to a2xx (0.83), you may get this for a little bit advantage while using viewfinder to shoot.
Somemore, the eyepiece is suitable for those fellows who wear spectacle(just like me... ), it will keep your lcd screen clean...
sorry, need ask a very noob question, how to focus ppl eye for a sharp portrait? attach picture is the doubt in my mind. is it the right picture is consider focus human eye while left picture is not?
recently just have shoot in a ballroom dinner, the environment is pretty more on orange color, i am strugglering in the whole night when my snap with flash gun,, i get photo like direct flash (more white). ambient color is totally lose(depends on how orange you want, normally its best to neutralize the 'orange-ness' and if desired, custom white balance, then use the same setting and warm it up a bit by setting it in Kelvin)
camera/flash setting:
flash with diffuser bounce backward 75 degree(bounce upward if ceiling is low, if high, use a bounce card), A- dial, 50mm f2.2, flash 'auto mode' 1/2 power, WB, 5000K (refer to another alpha user in the dinner), STD creativity, multi-seg metering , AF-C <-- (your eye focusing problem, use AF-A or AF-S instead), AF area - spot <-- (for precise focusing lock, use local area AF and select the points yourself), ISO 800 and 400 (ohh damm, just aware, CPL filter attach...) <-- lol, u already mentioned
after due to getting lose ambient color, off the flash gun, all shot are blurring (object as far as 1.5 - 7 meters). almost dinner ending, mood getting down n down, try WB tungsten +4, found its work with flash gun and photo produce orange ambient color. dinner end, main prize lucky draw tak kena, have blur photo, go back hanging myself
besides, there is another fren holds 40D with 50mm f1.8, at any shot his camera output in term of color, sharpness are excellent. both of us testing using same ISO, no flash gun, same distance to object. is it i am too noob or is a300 capability reach...
sifu please advice.
Image straight out from camera, no PP. only resized by imageshack when uploading - using roughly same method as mentioned above. Ambient light was pretty warm
This post has been edited by lwliam: Nov 27 2009, 12:27 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(jimlim007 @ Nov 26 2009, 11:36 PM)
sorry, need ask a very noob question, how to focus ppl eye for a sharp portrait? attach picture is the doubt in my mind. is it the right picture is consider focus human eye while left picture is not?
recently just have shoot in a ballroom dinner, the environment is pretty more on orange color, i am strugglering in the whole night when my snap with flash gun,, i get photo like direct flash (more white). ambient color is totally lose.
camera/flash setting:
flash with diffuser bounce backward 75 degree, A- dial, 50mm f2.2, flash 'auto mode' 1/2 power, WB, 5000K (refer to another alpha user in the dinner), STD creativity, multi-seg metering, AF-C, AF area - spot, ISO 800 and 400 (ohh damm, just aware, CPL filter attach...)
after due to getting lose ambient color, off the flash gun, all shot are blurring (object as far as 1.5 - 7 meters). almost dinner ending, mood getting down n down, try WB tungsten +4, found its work with flash gun and photo produce orange ambient color. dinner end, main prize lucky draw tak kena, have blur photo, go back hanging myself
besides, there is another fren holds 40D with 50mm f1.8, at any shot his camera output in term of color, sharpness are excellent. both of us testing using same ISO, no flash gun, same distance to object. is it i am too noob or is a300 capability reach...
sifu please advice.
1 sentence, u LACK of experince.... so Nope, it is not the limitation.
but few thing i really wanna ask u, 1. why to u bounce backward for?!?!? 2. why do u use manual flash, i assume u are totally inexperince with flash, And camera.... u should just let TTL do thier job. 3. 5000k WB, sigh, if ur flash werent properly used, every photo will have diff WB color, due to the "white 5500k color" from flash arent properly bounce to the front/subject. and reach #4. 4. u have to know this. when apperture bigger then F2.8, all natural light in the surrounding will mostly overwrite the flash (5500k) color... thus u will get 40-70% more overwrite towards the natural light... 5. 40D is a mid level camera, u cant compare with A300, if u like, take out a A700 to compare dont bring a kancil to a sportcar race ler....
there are ways to overcome the problem, one of them is to learn properly the flash uses. then learn more bout white balance, and lastly, read up bout gel card and how it helps in WB.
Either zoom out to cover the whole body (head to toe)... or walk back a few steps away from the subject (if using a fixed focal length lens), then focus on the eye. You could lock the focus on the eye (half shutter press) and re-compose to include the whole body.
disclaimer: this is tips from newbie also
understand. but will it the lighting starting drift (observed metering)..?
- increase ambient exposure by using a slower shutter speed and higher ISO. Use Manual Exposure instead. - don't ever put on a CPL filter unless you want to use it! - objects are blur because you turned off the flash and it is using a slow shutter speed. - you are metering for the background so you really do not have to keep adjusting it for every shot
Anyway, you can focus on the body if you want as you may find, it is in the similiar plane of focus. Anyway you can choose the AF point you want, yes?
hmm bro, wanna comment on jimlim007 pic, seems like the flash really not reaching the face, would it help if he was using a lambency diffuser? and set flash to Auto and control his shutter speed accordingly?
ps. I put my flash in my drybox got still got space kekekek
Image straight out from camera, no PP. only resized by imageshack when uploading - using roughly same method as mentioned above. Ambient light was pretty warm
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
hi lwliam, for this one not very understand "for precise focusing lock, use local area AF and select the points yourself", switch to local AF, how to select the the point?
the photo is warm. typically photographer will neutralize the ambient color?
This post has been edited by jimlim007: Nov 27 2009, 01:18 AM
The sifu is very straight forward indeed. LOL. Anyway was at Mardi Gras @ 1utama. Saw a photographer that really looked like kysham. LOL!
Mardi Gras at 1U? Interesting....... I loved going to Mardi Gras when I was living in the US. What are the events going on at 1U Mardi Gras? Got balconies where we can throw bead necklaces up to or not? Whagagaga
This post has been edited by ianho: Nov 27 2009, 01:21 AM
1 sentence, u LACK of experince (very agreed ).... so Nope, it is not the limitation.
but few thing i really wanna ask u, 1. why to u bounce backward for?!?!? hmm..actually the nikon guy try to help me since his camera getting much good ambient lighting 2. why do u use manual flash, i assume u are totally inexperince with flash, And camera.... u should just let TTL do thier job. i asked alpharian, he recomend me to use this setting, i just follow since no experience shooting in this type ballroom. 3. 5000k WB, sigh, if ur flash werent properly used, every photo will have diff WB color, due to the "white 5500k color" from flash arent properly bounce to the front/subject. and reach #4. this one also follow the alpha sifu in the dinner 4. u have to know this. when apperture bigger then F2.8, all natural light in the surrounding will mostly overwrite the flash (5500k) color... thus u will get 40-70% more overwrite towards the natural light... i am not aware of this leh. u mean when i adjust aperture F2.8------> F1.7, i might getting the ambient light with flash gun condition? but this not depend on how strong the flash power ? 5. 40D is a mid level camera, u cant compare with A300, if u like, take out a A700 to compare dont bring a kancil to a sportcar race ler.... i thought D60 > 40D hmm.. mistake. i have not seen A700 above, but the 40D is kinda awesome of the photo my fren take
there are ways to overcome the problem, one of them is to learn properly the flash uses. then learn more bout white balance, and lastly, read up bout gel card and how it helps in WB.
jimlim007: The answer is - you are too n00b. (agreed la, got 'too' somemore )
- increase ambient exposure by using a slower shutter speed and higher ISO. Use Manual Exposure instead. - don't ever put on a CPL filter unless you want to use it! (ya lor, over pandai , CPL remove d) - objects are blur because you turned off the flash and it is using a slow shutter speed. (i am also suspect this for my blur photo, if not it will need send to calibrate like clivengu case?) - you are metering for the background so you really do not have to keep adjusting it for every shot (metering for the backgorund? not understand....)
Anyway, you can focus on the body if you want as you may find, it is in the similiar plane of focus. Anyway you can choose the AF point you want, yes? actually i really not understand how to choose AF point? the nikon fren show me his camera got feature can select the small rectangular box in the LCD screen so that the point he select will have much more focus... he asking me my camera have similar feature or not, i actually also duno have or not.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(jimlim007 @ Nov 27 2009, 01:17 AM)
hi lwliam, for this one not very understand "for precise focusing lock, use local area AF and select the points yourself", switch to local AF, how to select the the point?
the photo is warm. typically photographer will neutralize the ambient color?
do u even know how to see warn or cool? that photo to me is just fine,... but a little too white, i prefer a little skintone color to be warmer.
QUOTE(jimlim007 @ Nov 27 2009, 01:34 AM)
hahaha. well, i guess u learned the hardway.
1. well, bouncing backward is used on certain condition, not all, and it is VERY BAD, because u going to blind unprepared people behind u. hahahahaha. Yes, bouncing behind usually is used for large apperture. eg:2.8 and below. but with another condition is that, the room MUST be poorly lit. meaning, it must have less natural light (like those ballroom, they are brightly lit with tungsten, very badddd,... again, read #4.) 2. urghhh... if u are inexperince, dont. because worst part is u are bouncing backwards, thus, u may not have a consistent distance of bounce area to bounce back the light, u might get 10% light back, or 30%, or 60%, or just 5%, thus ur exposure will be in a MESS. 3. erm... u really need to learn and understand the Custom WB urself. it takes time.... else, set it to AWB and let the bionz do thier job. usually if u see on ur LCD< it will have 50% more red. once u bring back to ur computer LCD< the proper color is there, it wont be That Red u see on ur camera lcd. (forgot to tell u, the camera lcd for A300 series is 50% more red)
4. now you know. it's like, if ur room light is blue, after flash (photo should be white) but the blue light travel pretty fast too, 1/60 prehaps enough to cause a 40% overwrite of blue light, hence, u will get a 40% cooler(blue) photo
so, ballroom usually is over lit with tungsten, red=orange, warmer light.... so, imagine when u uses F2.8, the amount of orange will be overwrite ur photo would be 20-40%... so most of ur photo are more 'warm' by about 20-40%...
so it is ur technique, not the camera limitation.... u lack of knowledge and experince.
also, that is the reason (i assumed) that the guys asked u to get to 5000k, but if me, i would use a gel card instead if i wan a proper overall WB
5. sigh, i am lazy to list laaa.... nikon and canon numbering is quite mess... sony also la... LOL
Mid Level Canon 40D, 50D (see the number is 2 digit, like nikon entry level) Nikon D300, D700, D300s (see the number is 3 digit, like canon's entry level numbering) Sony A700, A850
Pro level... no need tell la... u wont be getting it any soon also
so did u see that the 40D are mid level, and the cost so much, it could buy 2 and a half sets of ur camera... would u prefer getting 1x 40D or 2.5 sets of ur current camrea?
This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 27 2009, 02:16 AM
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
1 sentence, u LACK of experince (very agreed ).... so Nope, it is not the limitation.
but few thing i really wanna ask u, 1. why to u bounce backward for?!?!? hmm..actually the nikon guy try to help me since his camera getting much good ambient lighting 2. why do u use manual flash, i assume u are totally inexperince with flash, And camera.... u should just let TTL do thier job. i asked alpharian, he recomend me to use this setting, i just follow since no experience shooting in this type ballroom. 3. 5000k WB, sigh, if ur flash werent properly used, every photo will have diff WB color, due to the "white 5500k color" from flash arent properly bounce to the front/subject. and reach #4. this one also follow the alpha sifu in the dinner 4. u have to know this. when apperture bigger then F2.8, all natural light in the surrounding will mostly overwrite the flash (5500k) color... thus u will get 40-70% more overwrite towards the natural light... i am not aware of this leh. u mean when i adjust aperture F2.8------> F1.7, i might getting the ambient light with flash gun condition? but this not depend on how strong the flash power ? 5. 40D is a mid level camera, u cant compare with A300, if u like, take out a A700 to compare dont bring a kancil to a sportcar race ler.... i thought D60 > 40D hmm.. mistake. i have not seen A700 above, but the 40D is kinda awesome of the photo my fren take
there are ways to overcome the problem, one of them is to learn properly the flash uses. then learn more bout white balance, and lastly, read up bout gel card and how it helps in WB.
jimlim007: The answer is - you are too n00b. (agreed la, got 'too' somemore )
- increase ambient exposure by using a slower shutter speed and higher ISO. Use Manual Exposure instead. - don't ever put on a CPL filter unless you want to use it! (ya lor, over pandai , CPL remove d) - objects are blur because you turned off the flash and it is using a slow shutter speed. (i am also suspect this for my blur photo, if not it will need send to calibrate like clivengu case?) - you are metering for the background so you really do not have to keep adjusting it for every shot (metering for the backgorund? not understand....)
Anyway, you can focus on the body if you want as you may find, it is in the similiar plane of focus. Anyway you can choose the AF point you want, yes? actually i really not understand how to choose AF point? the nikon fren show me his camera got feature can select the small rectangular box in the LCD screen so that the point he select will have much more focus... he asking me my camera have similar feature or not, i actually also duno have or not.
40D (canon) same range as A700 (Sony in case you dont know), D300 (nikon)
the D60 on the other hand, maybe can be same level as A300 your 'alpha sifu' really tak boleh pakai if like that, not worthy to be called sifu.. 90% of the cases, camera bodies do not need calibration all alphas is able to select AF points, read up on the user manual if still unclear. learn more about your own camera/gear. go to your Fn, then select 'local AF' or something like that. then it uses the D pad to select which AF point u want to use.
Added on November 27, 2009, 2:15 am
QUOTE(jimlim007 @ Nov 27 2009, 01:17 AM)
hi lwliam, for this one not very understand "for precise focusing lock, use local area AF and select the points yourself", switch to local AF, how to select the the point?
the photo is warm. typically photographer will neutralize the ambient color?
take out your camera, now set WB kelvin to 8000K, take a photo, see the color, that is warm.. now turn it to 2500K, take a photo again, that is cool. see the difference.
whether the photog wants to neutralize the ambient or not, depends highly on him/herself and the mood s/he's trying to create.
This post has been edited by lwliam: Nov 27 2009, 02:15 AM
jimlim007: so now you learned that not everything can be copy and paste? Every setting have their reason.. Must look at the condition and change the parameters accordingly. If everything fail.. just go back to AUTO Mode n settle.. joking Try n error is the process of learning
- D60 is an entry level. 40D is mid range - Always remember the rule, the shutter speed a man can hold without blur "shutter speed = 1/ (focal length x crop factor)" - slower shutter speed , the pic will be blur.. (this is assumed that the SSS is off) - with higher ISO, wider aperture and slower shutter speed, u got more ambient light color. - Depend, I like the photo to have a little bit warm if shoot in those hotel environment, not all will neutralize the white balance. - To use local AF. Press the Fn button => AF area => Local, use the D pad to choose the AF Point (u didn't read the manual?)
--------
QUOTE(OSW @ Nov 27 2009, 01:38 AM)
Has anyone's sony's lens motor malfunction before?
lens motor don hv.. But my kit lens gear jam before.. Send to Sony service centre.. the personnel say motor jam.. I say.. this lens where got motor.. #$^%#*@&#*
jimlim007: Post a blur photo with EXIF. If the shutter speed is too slow it is operator error. Figure out what you are doing wrong before blaming the camera!
How long have you had your camera? How can you not know about the Local Area AF thing? You use the joystick to select AF point.
You need to spend more time with your camera. Bring it out everywhere, friends' birthdays etc. Then you will have experience, and when you need to shoot at a ballroom, you know how.
There is a white book in your A300 box... look for it and read through it.
do u even know how to see warn or cool? that photo to me is just fine,... but a little too white, i prefer a little skintone color to be warmer.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
hahaha. well, i guess u learned the hardway.
1. well, bouncing backward is used on certain condition, not all, and it is VERY BAD, because u going to blind unprepared people behind u. hahahahaha. Yes, bouncing behind usually is used for large apperture. eg:2.8 and below. but with another condition is that, the room MUST be poorly lit. meaning, it must have less natural light (like those ballroom, they are brightly lit with tungsten, very badddd,... again, read #4.) 2. urghhh... if u are inexperince, dont. because worst part is u are bouncing backwards, thus, u may not have a consistent distance of bounce area to bounce back the light, u might get 10% light back, or 30%, or 60%, or just 5%, thus ur exposure will be in a MESS. 3. erm... u really need to learn and understand the Custom WB urself. it takes time.... else, set it to AWB and let the bionz do thier job. usually if u see on ur LCD< it will have 50% more red. once u bring back to ur computer LCD< the proper color is there, it wont be That Red u see on ur camera lcd. (forgot to tell u, the camera lcd for A300 series is 50% more red)
4. now you know. it's like, if ur room light is blue, after flash (photo should be white) but the blue light travel pretty fast too, 1/60 prehaps enough to cause a 40% overwrite of blue light, hence, u will get a 40% cooler(blue) photo
so, ballroom usually is over lit with tungsten, red=orange, warmer light.... so, imagine when u uses F2.8, the amount of orange will be overwrite ur photo would be 20-40%... so most of ur photo are more 'warm' by about 20-40%...
so it is ur technique, not the camera limitation.... u lack of knowledge and experince.
also, that is the reason (i assumed) that the guys asked u to get to 5000k, but if me, i would use a gel card instead if i wan a proper overall WB
5. sigh, i am lazy to list laaa.... nikon and canon numbering is quite mess... sony also la... LOL
Mid Level Canon 40D, 50D (see the number is 2 digit, like nikon entry level) Nikon D300, D700, D300s (see the number is 3 digit, like canon's entry level numbering) Sony A700, A850
Pro level... no need tell la... u wont be getting it any soon also
so did u see that the 40D are mid level, and the cost so much, it could buy 2 and a half sets of ur camera... would u prefer getting 1x 40D or 2.5 sets of ur current camrea?
i used my white card or custom WB i do agree that the skintone could use a bit of warmth though.
Added on November 27, 2009, 2:21 am
QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 27 2009, 02:16 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
jimlim007: Post a blur photo with EXIF. If the shutter speed is too slow it is operator error. Figure out what you are doing wrong before blaming the camera!
How long have you had your camera? How can you not know about the Local Area AF thing? You use the joystick to select AF point.
You need to spend more time with your camera. Bring it out everywhere, friends' birthdays etc. Then you will have experience, and when you need to shoot at a ballroom, you know how.
There is a white book in your A300 box... look for it and read through it.
hahhahha, white book, i like that!
IeR, D700 where got mid level??????? consider high end edi lor...
This post has been edited by lwliam: Nov 27 2009, 02:23 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
lwliam: hehehe... skintone and WB is each person's preference. there is no right or wrong
i think Jimlim007 got peer pressure from his shooting friends, he couldnt get the right setting, and then he go compare photo with his friends, definately get stressed up... that why he a bit jump to conclusion the camera is at fault. dude, cool down dude... take more time to get to know ur camera...
u cant buy a new car, and expect u to drift like takumi, is the driver fault he cant drift (hey takumi did use an old lousy 85 levin to drift rite?)
Added on November 27, 2009, 2:27 amhahaha i think D700 is budget FF, like A850... but i myself is also confused, because my friend using D700 say his camera cant even compare to a pro level... hahaha, but it's up to the person how the percieve it. nikon are known to put high leve camera into the lower level tier... like D90, it cant be entry level, it suppose to be par with mid level~~ and A550 is a mid level or entry level? the same questions, to determine the LEVEL of the camera. sony seem to say A550 is entry... but to me, it perform so well, near par with A700, it should consider mid level...(need albnok to clarify...)
7D was declare a PRO by the canon, after it's launch and many review, the 'people of canon' state that 7D is a mid level, it cant compete with the pro level. i have no opinion...
This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 27 2009, 02:30 AM
do u even know how to see warn or cool? that photo to me is just fine,... but a little too white, i prefer a little skintone color to be warmer. hahaha. well, i guess u learned the hardway.
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1. well, bouncing backward is used on certain condition, not all, and it is VERY BAD, because u going to blind unprepared people behind u. hahahahaha. Yes, bouncing behind usually is used for large apperture. eg:2.8 and below. but with another condition is that, the room MUST be poorly lit. meaning, it must have less natural light (like those ballroom, they are brightly lit with tungsten, very badddd,... again, read #4.) 2. urghhh... if u are inexperince, dont. because worst part is u are bouncing backwards, thus, u may not have a consistent distance of bounce area to bounce back the light, u might get 10% light back, or 30%, or 60%, or just 5%, thus ur exposure will be in a MESS. 3. erm... u really need to learn and understand the Custom WB urself. it takes time.... else, set it to AWB and let the bionz do thier job. usually if u see on ur LCD< it will have 50% more red. once u bring back to ur computer LCD< the proper color is there, it wont be That Red u see on ur camera lcd. (forgot to tell u, the camera lcd for A300 series is 50% more red)
4. now you know. it's like, if ur room light is blue, after flash (photo should be white) but the blue light travel pretty fast too, 1/60 prehaps enough to cause a 40% overwrite of blue light, hence, u will get a 40% cooler(blue) photo
so, ballroom usually is over lit with tungsten, red=orange, warmer light.... so, imagine when u uses F2.8, the amount of orange will be overwrite ur photo would be 20-40%... so most of ur photo are more 'warm' by about 20-40%...
so it is ur technique, not the camera limitation.... u lack of knowledge and experince.
also, that is the reason (i assumed) that the guys asked u to get to 5000k, but if me, i would use a gel card instead if i wan a proper overall WB
5. sigh, i am lazy to list laaa.... nikon and canon numbering is quite mess... sony also la... LOL
Mid Level Canon 40D, 50D (see the number is 2 digit, like nikon entry level) Nikon D300, D700, D300s (see the number is 3 digit, like canon's entry level numbering) Sony A700, A850
Pro level... no need tell la... u wont be getting it any soon also
so did u see that the 40D are mid level, and the cost so much, it could buy 2 and a half sets of ur camera... would u prefer getting 1x 40D or 2.5 sets of ur current camrea?
really learn the hardway. seldom TT. all pro at KL city i am pretty stupid also, forgotten to check WB by using LV. now learn more already. let me try upload some photo. the enlarge crop is 100%, why the noise level is so high? it is ISO 400/800 noise or object is not in focus? (i cant see this noise at 40D when my fren enlarge his photo, although the 40D also have extremely blurr when entire ballroom is black and just have few lilin, majority my fren photo is yummy)
3rd picture is it i focus on he wall and not the persons? i observed wall moch more sharp
starting smell that mid range camera 'power'. cant imagine high end 5DII classwill ease users in some low light condition
Figure out if you were using Wide Area AF (big rectangle), Local Area AF (9 points, can select using D-pad) or Spot Area AF (center spot AF only). The second and third picture looks like it was focused on the center spot (the guy in white is off-center and not in focus.)
By the way, it was my colleague's last day at work today - he had an A300 and 18-70mm kit lens. I helped him take pictures with everyone in the office using the Local Area AF mode with the corner AF point aimed at faces. It focused accurately and sharply on the faces. I used Live View for all the shots and made him look rather tall due to the angle (perspective can make the kit lens look like an ultra-wide angle lens.)
This post has been edited by albnok: Nov 27 2009, 02:50 AM
really learn the hardway. seldom TT. all pro at KL city i am pretty stupid also, forgotten to check WB by using LV. now learn more already. let me try upload some photo. the enlarge crop is 100%, why the noise level is so high? it is ISO 400/800 noise or object is not in focus? (i cant see this noise at 40D when my fren enlarge his photo, although the 40D also have extremely blurr when entire ballroom is black and just have few lilin, majority my fren photo is yummy)
3rd picture is it i focus on he wall and not the persons? i observed wall moch more sharp
starting smell that mid range camera 'power'. cant imagine high end 5DII classwill ease users in some low light condition
OMGGGGGG what's with all the empty spaces???? what's with u and 40D/5D? u like it so much go ahead and buy them, then show us if u can get the same image you 'think' you should be getting...
u dun have to confirm WB by using LV, after u take a pic, cant u tell that it's not the color temperature u want? what if those who doesnt have LV? no need check WB?
and like i said, you're using AF-C (C for continuous) it only uses the centre spot (by default) for focus and changes everytime u move the camera. surely the centre subject will be off-focus. tell u what, now go change it to AF-A permanantly, until u know what is it's use, do not change it
This post has been edited by lwliam: Nov 27 2009, 02:53 AM
7D is born to be the flagship for the APS-C camera, same as the the D300. Manufacturer say all the cam are pro.. so they can sell more?? haha
true true, i somehow agree with u. say pro, can sell more expensive. LOL
7D, i just dont get it, WHY an APS-C?!?!? it came shock to the world when they announce it as APS-C...
but i wont be suprised... canon been making so many stupid move all pass 40 years. changing mount(reason why 50% of canon user jumped to nikon), several crops ratio, 1.6 la, 1.7! laa. then 1.3 leh? wtf... rushing to release, then after launch, 2-5 times firmware updates a year... sigh...
7D was declare a PRO by the canon, after it's launch and many review, the 'people of canon' state that 7D is a mid level, it cant compete with the pro level. i have no opinion...
i don't recall any press release where Canon declared it as PRO level.
anyone familiar with Canon's range would already know that as long as it doesn't start with a '1' on the model name, it's semi-pro. you should hang around Canon users more often.
and while it's semi-pro, would you like us to list out how many professionals are using the 7D? even on LYN alone?
QUOTE(ieR @ Nov 27 2009, 02:53 AM)
true true, i somehow agree with u. say pro, can sell more expensive. LOL
7D, i just dont get it, WHY an APS-C?!?!? it came shock to the world when they announce it as APS-C...
i think, if u wan to get convince ur camera is good? try this next time u go for event.
Direct Flash, Wide Plate out. Shoot. Ignore the harsh flash. just shoot. then u check the picture sharpness + noise. see the differences.
again, STOP comparing with 40D,... dont force albnok comes out with his A900 and knock ur head with it... *edit: show u mine.
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then crop 1 to 1 pixel
yeah, taken by ur a300? wow it sharp
Added on November 27, 2009, 10:05 am
QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 27 2009, 02:05 AM)
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1 sentence, u LACK of experince (very agreed ).... so Nope, it is not the limitation.
but few thing i really wanna ask u, 1. why to u bounce backward for?!?!? hmm..actually the nikon guy try to help me since his camera getting much good ambient lighting 2. why do u use manual flash, i assume u are totally inexperince with flash, And camera.... u should just let TTL do thier job. i asked alpharian, he recomend me to use this setting, i just follow since no experience shooting in this type ballroom. 3. 5000k WB, sigh, if ur flash werent properly used, every photo will have diff WB color, due to the "white 5500k color" from flash arent properly bounce to the front/subject. and reach #4. this one also follow the alpha sifu in the dinner 4. u have to know this. when apperture bigger then F2.8, all natural light in the surrounding will mostly overwrite the flash (5500k) color... thus u will get 40-70% more overwrite towards the natural light... i am not aware of this leh. u mean when i adjust aperture F2.8------> F1.7, i might getting the ambient light with flash gun condition? but this not depend on how strong the flash power ? 5. 40D is a mid level camera, u cant compare with A300, if u like, take out a A700 to compare dont bring a kancil to a sportcar race ler.... i thought D60 > 40D hmm.. mistake. i have not seen A700 above, but the 40D is kinda awesome of the photo my fren take
there are ways to overcome the problem, one of them is to learn properly the flash uses. then learn more bout white balance, and lastly, read up bout gel card and how it helps in WB.
jimlim007: The answer is - you are too n00b. (agreed la, got 'too' somemore )
- increase ambient exposure by using a slower shutter speed and higher ISO. Use Manual Exposure instead. - don't ever put on a CPL filter unless you want to use it! (ya lor, over pandai , CPL remove d) - objects are blur because you turned off the flash and it is using a slow shutter speed. (i am also suspect this for my blur photo, if not it will need send to calibrate like clivengu case?) - you are metering for the background so you really do not have to keep adjusting it for every shot (metering for the backgorund? not understand....)
Anyway, you can focus on the body if you want as you may find, it is in the similiar plane of focus. Anyway you can choose the AF point you want, yes? actually i really not understand how to choose AF point? the nikon fren show me his camera got feature can select the small rectangular box in the LCD screen so that the point he select will have much more focus... he asking me my camera have similar feature or not, i actually also duno have or not.
40D (canon) same range as A700 (Sony in case you dont know), D300 (nikon)
the D60 on the other hand, maybe can be same level as A300 your 'alpha sifu' really tak boleh pakai if like that, not worthy to be called sifu.. 90% of the cases, camera bodies do not need calibration all alphas is able to select AF points, read up on the user manual if still unclear. learn more about your own camera/gear. go to your Fn, then select 'local AF' or something like that. then it uses the D pad to select which AF point u want to use.
Added on November 27, 2009, 2:15 am
take out your camera, now set WB kelvin to 8000K, take a photo, see the color, that is warm.. now turn it to 2500K, take a photo again, that is cool. see the difference.
whether the photog wants to neutralize the ambient or not, depends highly on him/herself and the mood s/he's trying to create.
yeah, i have try this during dinner, tried on every WB, get blue, white, red, green, sad found orange at last minute. i think the CPL is one cause also. i feel it is very important to know ahead the which Kelvin value can produce what color before the event shoot.
Added on November 27, 2009, 10:14 am
QUOTE(hkhk @ Nov 27 2009, 02:15 AM)
jimlim007: so now you learned that not everything can be copy and paste? Every setting have their reason.. Must look at the condition and change the parameters accordingly. If everything fail.. just go back to AUTO Mode n settle.. joking Try n error is the process of learning
- D60 is an entry level. 40D is mid range - Always remember the rule, the shutter speed a man can hold without blur "shutter speed = 1/ (focal length x crop factor)" - slower shutter speed , the pic will be blur.. (this is assumed that the SSS is off) - with higher ISO, wider aperture and slower shutter speed, u got more ambient light color. - Depend, I like the photo to have a little bit warm if shoot in those hotel environment, not all will neutralize the white balance. - To use local AF. Press the Fn button => AF area => Local, use the D pad to choose the AF Point (u didn't read the manual?) -------- lens motor don hv.. But my kit lens gear jam before.. Send to Sony service centre.. the personnel say motor jam.. I say.. this lens where got motor.. #$^%#*@&#*
seriously, that night i really feel pressure in middle of the shoot. there is one colleague ask me to shoot with portrait-dail. let me write some key note in my white alpha bible
Added on November 27, 2009, 10:20 am
QUOTE(albnok @ Nov 27 2009, 02:16 AM)
jimlim007: Post a blur photo with EXIF. If the shutter speed is too slow it is operator error. Figure out what you are doing wrong before blaming the camera!
How long have you had your camera? How can you not know about the Local Area AF thing? You use the joystick to select AF point.
You need to spend more time with your camera. Bring it out everywhere, friends' birthdays etc. Then you will have experience, and when you need to shoot at a ballroom, you know how.
There is a white book in your A300 box... look for it and read through it.
owned it 13 months d shooting 3k plus photos. the joydtick yeah i seldom use it (not reach 5 times). future will use it more got read the white bible la, but some portion read also cant understand
This post has been edited by jimlim007: Nov 27 2009, 10:20 AM
Figure out if you were using Wide Area AF (big rectangle), Local Area AF (9 points, can select using D-pad) or Spot Area AF (center spot AF only). The second and third picture looks like it was focused on the center spot (the guy in white is off-center and not in focus.)
By the way, it was my colleague's last day at work today - he had an A300 and 18-70mm kit lens. I helped him take pictures with everyone in the office using the Local Area AF mode with the corner AF point aimed at faces. It focused accurately and sharply on the faces. I used Live View for all the shots and made him look rather tall due to the angle (perspective can make the kit lens look like an ultra-wide angle lens.)
ohh. actually i notice one thing that night, the camera some time it is auto set to spot center, why ar? it is other setting lead to auto activate this spot center?
ohh. actually i notice one thing that night, the camera some time it is auto set to spot center, why ar? it is other setting lead to auto activate this spot center?
where u stay? auto set? wat mode did u use? have u change the mode?
where u stay? auto set? wat mode did u use? have u change the mode?
sorry, this Q already answered by lwliam at p16.
Added on November 27, 2009, 10:51 am
QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 27 2009, 02:48 AM)
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OMGGGGGG what's with all the empty spaces???? what's with u and 40D/5D? u like it so much go ahead and buy them, then show us if u can get the same image you 'think' you should be getting...
u dun have to confirm WB by using LV, after u take a pic, cant u tell that it's not the color temperature u want? what if those who doesnt have LV? no need check WB?
and like i said, you're using AF-C (C for continuous) it only uses the centre spot (by default) for focus and changes everytime u move the camera. surely the centre subject will be off-focus. tell u what, now go change it to AF-A permanantly, until u know what is it's use, do not change it
kk, set to AF-A d. yeah, i notice AF-C cause spot center.
Added on November 27, 2009, 11:00 am
QUOTE(Killabee88 @ Nov 27 2009, 10:45 AM)
so long didnt share pics here.
please C&C taken with a200, KM50
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nice shot, #1 nice
Added on November 27, 2009, 11:01 amomg, after use 13 months, now only know to use the controller to select the "area"
This post has been edited by jimlim007: Nov 27 2009, 11:01 AM
Bcoz no need F2.8 to get this Go Go Go ... Which one better SAL20mm or Minolta20mm ...
wah... love that lens... 70300G... just nice...
QUOTE(goldfries @ Nov 27 2009, 03:18 AM)
i don't recall any press release where Canon declared it as PRO level.
anyone familiar with Canon's range would already know that as long as it doesn't start with a '1' on the model name, it's semi-pro. you should hang around Canon users more often.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(jimlim007 @ Nov 27 2009, 09:56 AM)
yeah, taken by ur a300? wow it sharp
Added on November 27, 2009, 10:05 am
yeah, i have try this during dinner, tried on every WB, get blue, white, red, green, sad found orange at last minute. i think the CPL is one cause also. i feel it is very important to know ahead the which Kelvin value can produce what color before the event shoot.
Added on November 27, 2009, 10:14 am
seriously, that night i really feel pressure in middle of the shoot. there is one colleague ask me to shoot with portrait-dail. let me write some key note in my white alpha bible
Added on November 27, 2009, 10:20 am
owned it 13 months d shooting 3k plus photos. the joydtick yeah i seldom use it (not reach 5 times). future will use it more got read the white bible la, but some portion read also cant understand
3k after 13 months? My a200 has less than a year old and i think at least did 15k or more~
Pro or not, it is not about the gear, it's the practice. A noob who buys a 1Ds just because he has a lot of money, doesn't mean that he's a pro. Even a good photographer with a 1Ds, also doesn't mean that he's a pro.
A pro is a person who works exclusively in his particular field, with professional ethics and conducts, supported by professional level of support services.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(soulfly @ Nov 27 2009, 11:56 AM)
Pro or not, it is not about the gear, it's the practice. A noob who buys a 1Ds just because he has a lot of money, doesn't mean that he's a pro. Even a good photographer with a 1Ds, also doesn't mean that he's a pro.
A pro is a person who works exclusively in his particular field, with professional ethics and conducts, supported by professional level of support services.
agree~ But we dont deny the gears will determine better result if it has fallen to the right hands~
7D was declare a PRO by the canon, after it's launch and many review, the 'people of canon' state that 7D is a mid level, it cant compete with the pro level. i have no opinion...
does it matter? i give u a situation, a Pro holding a 7D, so the photo come out from the camera u think is Pro level or not?
or a Noob holding the flagship 1Ds Mark III PRO camera... so the photo come out is Pro Level or not?
I don't think you can tell the difference if Nigel Barker or Joe McNalley is holding an entry level, semi-pro or pro camera given samples photos to examine. It is the photo that come out that is Pro or not, not the gear or the lens.
am feel so guilty dragging all into brand & model arguement
well i believe certain ppl like certain brand because of the feature. Just that in your case u like the canon feature more than sony. Nothing wrong with that. End of the day it is you that you need to please. If you are not happy with it, wat for? So wat u waiting for? Jump ship
well i believe certain ppl like certain brand because of the feature. Just that in your case u like the canon feature more than sony. Nothing wrong with that. End of the day it is you that you need to please. If you are not happy with it, wat for? So wat u waiting for? Jump ship
haiyoo, that one is different ma. my skill not there plus comparison banana to apple not apple to apple i go tapao first, hungry
This post has been edited by jimlim007: Nov 27 2009, 12:16 PM
am feel so guilty dragging all into brand & model arguement
aiks... I saw your problem at previous post. Why don't you use AWB setting ? the flash fired correctly will at least remove the "wrong" white balance on a person one. If still not corrected then you can pull the white balance bar during PP.
put the flash on ttl ? ( sorry I dont know sony punya ) mode let it automatically count the setting for your flash before you fire ma
p/s i want flash also bo money... so sad
This post has been edited by 168257061: Nov 27 2009, 12:20 PM
my little dino is really dino compared to A300 and still the shots come out better than what you shown. it's not gear problem, it's user problem.
instead of asking so much, you should just join any of the TT sessions (sony or not) and Q&A there lor. wanna join us this Sunday for TT? (if you're in Klang Valley la)
Nov 21 2009, 01:34 PM, updated 16y ago
- A200, A300, A350
Quote
Mess it around for 30mins, found some bugs with the firmware. 
sleep on it dude.. make up ur mind.. there's a lot of reviews in the internet.. XD read 'em
yo millenia3000..dude how r u?
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so i just pun it in my bag la eh ... then when it turns pink... just recharge it.. how many of that u put in your bag?? 
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