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1 sentence, u LACK of experince (very agreed ).... so Nope, it is not the limitation.
but few thing i really wanna ask u,
1. why to u bounce backward for?!?!? hmm..actually the nikon guy try to help me since his camera getting much good ambient lighting
2. why do u use manual flash, i assume u are totally inexperince with flash, And camera.... u should just let TTL do thier job. i asked alpharian, he recomend me to use this setting, i just follow since no experience shooting in this type ballroom.
3. 5000k WB, sigh, if ur flash werent properly used, every photo will have diff WB color, due to the "white 5500k color" from flash arent properly bounce to the front/subject. and reach #4. this one also follow the alpha sifu in the dinner
4. u have to know this. when apperture bigger then F2.8, all natural light in the surrounding will mostly overwrite the flash (5500k) color... thus u will get 40-70% more overwrite towards the natural light... i am not aware of this leh. u mean when i adjust aperture F2.8------> F1.7, i might getting the ambient light with flash gun condition? but this not depend on how strong the flash power ?
5. 40D is a mid level camera, u cant compare with A300, if u like, take out a A700 to compare dont bring a kancil to a sportcar race ler.... i thought D60 > 40D hmm.. mistake. i have not seen A700 above, but the 40D is kinda awesome of the photo my fren take
there are ways to overcome the problem, one of them is to learn properly the flash uses. then learn more bout white balance, and lastly, read up bout gel card and how it helps in WB.
jimlim007: The answer is - you are too n00b. (agreed la, got 'too' somemore )
- increase ambient exposure by using a slower shutter speed and higher ISO. Use Manual Exposure instead.
- don't ever put on a CPL filter unless you want to use it! (ya lor, over pandai , CPL remove d)
- objects are blur because you turned off the flash and it is using a slow shutter speed. (i am also suspect this for my blur photo, if not it will need send to calibrate like clivengu case?)
- you are metering for the background so you really do not have to keep adjusting it for every shot (metering for the backgorund? not understand....)
Anyway, you can focus on the body if you want as you may find, it is in the similiar plane of focus. Anyway you can choose the AF point you want, yes? actually i really not understand how to choose AF point? the nikon fren show me his camera got feature can select the small rectangular box in the LCD screen so that the point he select will have much more focus... he asking me my camera have similar feature or not, i actually also duno have or not.
40D (canon) same range as A700 (Sony in case you dont know), D300 (nikon)
the D60 on the other hand, maybe can be same level as A300
your 'alpha sifu' really tak boleh pakai if like that, not worthy to be called sifu..
90% of the cases, camera bodies do not need calibration
all alphas is able to select AF points, read up on the user manual if still unclear. learn more about your own camera/gear. go to your Fn, then select 'local AF' or something like that. then it uses the D pad to select which AF point u want to use.
Added on November 27, 2009, 2:15 amQUOTE(jimlim007 @ Nov 27 2009, 01:17 AM)
hi lwliam, for this one not very understand "for precise focusing lock, use local area AF and select the points yourself", switch to local AF, how to select the the point?
the photo is warm. typically photographer will neutralize the ambient color?
take out your camera, now set WB kelvin to 8000K, take a photo, see the color, that is warm.. now turn it to 2500K, take a photo again, that is cool. see the difference.
whether the photog wants to neutralize the ambient or not, depends highly on him/herself and the mood s/he's trying to create.
This post has been edited by lwliam: Nov 27 2009, 02:15 AM 
Nov 22 2009, 08:23 PM
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ROFL
 
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