I nvr complain or anything. But the 1116 is really nice wei. How you la now?

Q : quick question, is there any extra advantages by using lens with optical stabilization built-in in addition to alpha in-body SSS ? thanks in advance.

Wahhhh... manyak duit wooo...

anyways,

Morning Pic Sepam!



C&C is most Appreciated!

http://bit.ly/8fnHt6 - Yeay! A review of Sony a550 DSLR at last! Now, D90 or a550?

ieR: thanks.

some bike shot from this morning @ Sepang

In this kind of scenario, you would need an external flash. If you want to get a balanced picture without doing extensive PP, here's what you can do:

1. Have an external flash ready.
2. Meter the background to get a proper exposure and lock the exposure on the background.

Step no. 2 will guarantee you that your subject and/or foreground will be UNDEREXPOSED. So to bring it up:

3. Use your flash in manual mode and dial in the setting so that the subject will be properly exposed. The background will not blow out coz you've metered it correctly.

It may be time consuming to set/reset the flash power output so in a hectic shoot, it may not be practical. I haven't tried TTL in this kind of scenario so I don't know if it will give the correct flash output.

Else you can find a different angle where the background is not so bright.

Hope that helps.

is it because he meters the background? If meter the background correctly (no overexpose) Then the foreground will be somewhat darker than the background right?

Exactly! You are metering for a bright background. So if the background is exposed properly, then the foreground which is in some shade or is less bright will be underexposed. Thus you need to bring it up using your flash. Like I said, I have not tried using the flash in TTL when I am metering not on the subject but the background. You guys could try it out and see what the result is.

your camera's sensor does not have a wide enough dynamic range to cover these areas for bright and dark. normally, for that type of pics, its alright as long your subject is properly exposed, then the b/g doesnt really matter that much..

unless you're speaking in technical terms, then yes, only a flash can remedy it.

spooky: time for A850 with high dro feature. lol

ieR: The SB-800 and SB-900 have modelling light buttons on the flash (which is pretty much like our Test button.) There are previous models with it too but I don't remember which.

hkhk: Some lenses change focus distance when you change focal length - they are called vari-focal lenses. However I find the Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT to maintain focus - in fact, if you zoomed to 70mm and focused, then turned to 18mm, the focus would just be much, much sharper.

UWA 11-18 or G 70300?

hi thar
So I was at comic fiesta, and i feel my Tamron 17-50 F2.8 on a300
- not that fast under low light
- the bokeh isolation of cosplayers to the busy background not ummph enough

So im thinking primes (never had one) either one below (under 2K)
-Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC HSM = RM17XX (Local Warranty)
-Sigma 24mm F1.8 EX DG =RM14XX (Local Warranty)
-28mm F1.8 EX DG Asp =RM11XX (Local Warranty)
- you suggest

*im stinking something that not exceeds 50mm in actual film equivalent
which one do you think best bang for the bucks?
im open to suggestions as well

If you're thinking of full-body shots at close range, under 1 meter, the 20mm F1.8 would be your best bet. It's the closest you can get to 17mm anyway!