Jan 11 2008, 09:36 AM, updated 18y ago
Welcome to all new member whom just got bump into us
This thread is dedicated to those who would like to share their pet rabbit experiences, their pet stories or even seek help with other fellow owner.Enjoy your stay here and please comply to Lowyat.NET Rules and Regulations at all times.
IMPORTANT: Please do check out the post below for whole lotsa information!
If you don't find any information from there, feel free to post a questionThank you.
>>> Introduction to House Rabbit <<< (Click Here)
Information Hub:
1. New Owners Guidelines:
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1. Cage - should be 4 times bigger than its size
2. Litter Box - to litter train them
3. Woody Pets Bedding brand recommended - to absord pee and reduce smell
4. Anti Slippery Mat (if you're using wired cage) - for their comfort and prevent sore hocks
5. Mat with bigger holes - for litter box to prevent them digging the bedding and messing the litter box
6. Feeding bowl (recommended ceramic material) - for pellets, get the heavy type coz they can toss around if it's too light
7. Hay Rack (recommended DIY with tissue box, picture guide shown below) - for holding the hay, hang it on your cage
8. Pellets (Oxbow Bunny Basic/T brand is highly recommended) - feed a small portion to their diet, once a day recommended
9. Timothy Hay (for age 6 months and above) - provide unlimited amount and access to hay! It's their main diet for their adulthood
10. Alfafa Hay (for age 6 months and below) - provide unlimited amount and access to hay! It's their main diet for their childhood
11. Vegetables (recommended carrots, parsley, broccoli, refer link provided below for more vegetables option) - please do not give cabbage! will coz diarrhea
12. Litter scoop - for scooping the litter
13. Treats - don't give often, once in a while it's ok
14. List of toys you can give to your bunnies:
a. Toilet/Kitchen rolls - yes, they love it!
b. Rattling sound toy (recommended baby toy available in departmental store)
c. Old Newspapers - yes, they like to destroy stuff, some recommend old phonebook
d. Big Ice Cube - they like to rest on it when it's hot day, sometimes they eat it too!
e. Bottle with marble - function same as rattling sound toy
2. Litter Box - to litter train them
3. Woody Pets Bedding brand recommended - to absord pee and reduce smell
4. Anti Slippery Mat (if you're using wired cage) - for their comfort and prevent sore hocks
5. Mat with bigger holes - for litter box to prevent them digging the bedding and messing the litter box
6. Feeding bowl (recommended ceramic material) - for pellets, get the heavy type coz they can toss around if it's too light
7. Hay Rack (recommended DIY with tissue box, picture guide shown below) - for holding the hay, hang it on your cage
8. Pellets (Oxbow Bunny Basic/T brand is highly recommended) - feed a small portion to their diet, once a day recommended
9. Timothy Hay (for age 6 months and above) - provide unlimited amount and access to hay! It's their main diet for their adulthood
10. Alfafa Hay (for age 6 months and below) - provide unlimited amount and access to hay! It's their main diet for their childhood
11. Vegetables (recommended carrots, parsley, broccoli, refer link provided below for more vegetables option) - please do not give cabbage! will coz diarrhea
12. Litter scoop - for scooping the litter
13. Treats - don't give often, once in a while it's ok
14. List of toys you can give to your bunnies:
a. Toilet/Kitchen rolls - yes, they love it!
b. Rattling sound toy (recommended baby toy available in departmental store)
c. Old Newspapers - yes, they like to destroy stuff, some recommend old phonebook
d. Big Ice Cube - they like to rest on it when it's hot day, sometimes they eat it too!
e. Bottle with marble - function same as rattling sound toy
2. What is hay? Hay is the [b]ONLY main food you should give to your bunny (Click Here for picture!)[/b]
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a. Alfafa Hay is best for young rabbit (kit) below 6 months
b. Timothy Hay is best for rabbit above 6 months
b. Timothy Hay is best for rabbit above 6 months
3. Veggies for Bunny (Click Here!)
4. Fruits for Bunny (Click Here!)
5. A Rabbit in the House (Click Here!)
6. Using the Right Medications & Porridge for Bunny (Click Here!)
7. Benefits in Neutering/Spaying your bunnies
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Why spay and neuter rabbits?
Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits. The risk of reproductive cancers (ovarian, uterine, mammarian) for an unspayed female rabbit stands at is virtually eliminated by spaying your female rabbit. Your neutered male rabbit will live longer as well, given that he won't be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his sexual aggression.
Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after surgery.
Avoidance of obnoxious behavior. Unneutered male rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered.
Altered rabbits won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits. Over 15 million adorable dogs, cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in this country every year. In addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don't necessarily fare any better, as pet stores sell pets to anyone with the money to buy, and don't check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these rabbits will be sold as snake food, or as a pet for a small child who will soon "outgrow" the rabbit.
Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your rabbit is altered, he or she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex, or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive behaviors triggered by hormones.
Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians. The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit.
a. Click Here for the Source!
b. Click Here for more information on Neutering/Spaying!
Altered rabbits are healthier and live longer than unaltered rabbits. The risk of reproductive cancers (ovarian, uterine, mammarian) for an unspayed female rabbit stands at is virtually eliminated by spaying your female rabbit. Your neutered male rabbit will live longer as well, given that he won't be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due to his sexual aggression.
Altered rabbits make better companions. They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate has been removed. In addition, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling) behavior after surgery.
Avoidance of obnoxious behavior. Unneutered male rabbits spray, and both males and females are much easier to litter train, and much more reliably trained, after they have been altered.
Altered rabbits won't contribute to the problem of overpopulation of rabbits. Over 15 million adorable dogs, cats, and rabbits are killed in animal shelters in this country every year. In addition, unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other animals or traffic accidents. Those rabbits who are sold to pet stores don't necessarily fare any better, as pet stores sell pets to anyone with the money to buy, and don't check on what kind of home they will go to. Many of these rabbits will be sold as snake food, or as a pet for a small child who will soon "outgrow" the rabbit.
Altered rabbits can safely have a friend to play with. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy the company of other rabbits. But unless your rabbit is altered, he or she cannot have a friend, either of the opposite sex, or the same sex, due to sexual and aggressive behaviors triggered by hormones.
Spaying and neutering for rabbits has become a safe procedure when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians. The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia. A knowledgeable rabbit veterinarian can spay or neuter your rabbit with very little risk to a healthy rabbit. Don't allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter your rabbit.
a. Click Here for the Source!
b. Click Here for more information on Neutering/Spaying!
8. Some Guide to Check Your Bunny Health Condition
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Is Your Bunny Sick?
Rabbits are at the bottom of the food chain and in the wild the weakest are the first to be preyed upon. Thus, rabbits instinctively hide illnesses and injuries to avoid detection by animals of prey. This may be a good survival tactic in the wild, but for domestic rabbits, hiding their symptoms of illness only misleads their caretakers and prevents prompt medical attention.
People who live with rabbits need to be particularly attentive to subtle changes in behavior or litterbox habits.
If your rabbit usually greets you with leaps and bounds and he is now lying in the back of the cage when you approach, this could be a cause for concern. Couple this behavior change with no droppings in his litterbox and food left untouched, and you could have a very sick rabbit.
What is "normal" behavior? Some rabbits jump up to greet you; some don't. Some rabbits are very active, running all over the house; some aren't. In general, rabbits mellow a bit as they age. A three-month-old bunny might seem hyperactive compared to a more sedate five-year-old rabbit. Both activity levels are normal, just different. But this behavior will be consistent and known to you. Any deviation of that behavior could signal illness.
The following information is offered as a layman's guide to some rabbit ailments. Be sure to find a good veterinarian before your bunny gets sick. When your bunny is ill, you need help quickly and you won't have time to "shop" for a vet. If you are ever in question about your rabbit's health, call your veterinarian for advice.
Tooth grinding: Loud tooth grinding is a sure sign of pain. Note: This tooth grinding is different from the softer "tooth purring" you may hear when you snuggle and kiss Bun's face!
Body heat: Rabbits regulate body temperature by their ears. Very cold or hot ears could indicate a fever or a drop in body temperature. This, coupled with other warning signs could warrant a trip to the vet.
Runny eyes or nose, labored breathing or chronic sneezing: These could indicate an upper respiratory infection, a blocked tear duct or other problems. See your veterinarian.
Wet chin or drooling: Usually a sign of tooth problems, or malocclusion. You may also notice a decrease in appetite and ability to eat hard foods such as whole carrot. See your veterinarian. Left untreated, tooth problems can lead to infection of the jaw bone, which is very difficult to treat. Depending on the severity of the misalignment, your rabbit's teeth may need to be trimmed regularly. In severe cases, teeth can be pulled.
Loss of balance or a head tilt: This is most often a sign of wry neck, which is an inner ear infection, but could also be an indication of E. cuniculi. This can occur very suddenly. Although treatment can be lengthy, and improvement not noticeable for about 10 days, wry neck may be cured if treatment is begun quickly.
Excessive itching or scratching, head shaking: Fleas, ear mites and/or fur mites are the usual culprits. In some ear mite cases, scabs can be seen in the ear canal. Your veterinarian will decide what treatment is needed. If one rabbit in your house has mites, it is best to have all the rabbits checked, as mites can be transferred easily.
Fleas are common in the summer months. Although they may seem harmless, flea infestations can kill rabbits, dogs and cats by causing a deadly case of anemia. Dust your pet with 5% Sevin dust and use a flea comb (no flea collars, or flea dips unless prescribed by a good rabbit vet). Have your carpet steam-cleaned or treated with a commercial borate-compound product to kill the flea eggs and larvae. The borate treatment is usually guaranteed for a year. Be sure the products used are safe for rabbits. (Rule of thumb: If it's safe for kittens, it is usually safe for adult rabbits.)
Sore hocks: This is when the fur on the rabbit's hock, or heel, is worn down to the bare skin or, in severe cases, to the bone. Sometimes the rabbit forms calluses and get along just fine. Problems arise when the skin turns into an open wound. You may notice the rabbit favoring a foot as he tries to avoid putting weight on his hocks.
Causes are numerous, including wire cage bottoms with no resting area, a damp resting board, wet bunny beds or dirty litterboxes. Overweight and large-breed rabbits are particularly prone to sore hocks, as are the Rex breeds, since they do not have a lot of padding on their feet.
If there are open wounds on your rabbit's hocks or if the area is swollen, see your veterinarian. To prevent sore hocks, give your rabbit a soft, clean resting area. Also, keep your rabbit's weight within normal range, and examine your rabbit regularly.
Blood in the urine, straining to urinate: The two may or may not go hand in hand. While certain foods can turn urine red, actual blood in the urine can be a sign of cancer, bladder infection or urinary stones. If your rabbit is straining to urinate or is "leaking" puddles outside the litterbox, you should be concerned. You may also notice "urine burn," caused when urine-soaked fur keeps the skin underneath damp and irritated. Antibiotics maybe needed, so take your rabbit to his veterinarian.
In one end, out the other: Your rabbit's litterbox contains a wealth of information. A healthy digestive tract will produce large, round fecal pellets. Increasingly smaller, irregularly shaped droppings or droppings strung together with fur (or carpet) may indicate a problem. Proper grooming by you, especially during a molt, and plenty of fresh hay will help produce optimum digestive tract health, along with appealing to the rabbit's urge to chew.
Lumps and bumps: Abscesses and tumors can be serious and should be checked by your veterinarian as soon as possible.
Loss of appetite or lethargy: Even a rabbit can have a "bad hare day." But if your rabbit refuses his usual fresh food or any of his special treats, and seems particularly lethargic, you should call your rabbit's veterinarian right away. We encourage you to observe your rabbit's behavior, activity level and droppings daily. Each rabbit is different and knowing what is normal behavior for your rabbit could save his life.
Good and Bad Medicines
ORAL penicillins such as Amoxicillin and Clavamox can kill your rabbit. INJECTABLE penicillin Procaine G with Benzathine is a fairly safe antibiotic for rabbits. Oral penicillins destroy the good gut flora and can kill your rabbit shortly after administration of the drug, or up to three weeks after the drug has been taken.
If there is a GI upset, good bacteria in the gut can be replaced by cecal pellets from a healthy rabbit or with Probios (Bene-bac) supplement, obtainable through your veterinarian.
Good bunny antibiotics include Baytril (enrofloxacin); Diprofloxacin; Chloramphenicol (viceton is the tablet form); Tetracycline; Trimethoprime/Sulfa (Bactrim); Sulfamethazine; and Amalcacin and Gentomycin (short-term use only; 3-5 days due to nephrotoxicity).
Good bunny analgesics (pain medicine) include aspirin; Butorphenol (torbugesic); and Flunixin (banamine).
Remember, do not administer any medications to your rabbit without consulting a veterinarian well versed in rabbit care.
Click Here for Website!
Rabbits are at the bottom of the food chain and in the wild the weakest are the first to be preyed upon. Thus, rabbits instinctively hide illnesses and injuries to avoid detection by animals of prey. This may be a good survival tactic in the wild, but for domestic rabbits, hiding their symptoms of illness only misleads their caretakers and prevents prompt medical attention.
People who live with rabbits need to be particularly attentive to subtle changes in behavior or litterbox habits.
If your rabbit usually greets you with leaps and bounds and he is now lying in the back of the cage when you approach, this could be a cause for concern. Couple this behavior change with no droppings in his litterbox and food left untouched, and you could have a very sick rabbit.
What is "normal" behavior? Some rabbits jump up to greet you; some don't. Some rabbits are very active, running all over the house; some aren't. In general, rabbits mellow a bit as they age. A three-month-old bunny might seem hyperactive compared to a more sedate five-year-old rabbit. Both activity levels are normal, just different. But this behavior will be consistent and known to you. Any deviation of that behavior could signal illness.
The following information is offered as a layman's guide to some rabbit ailments. Be sure to find a good veterinarian before your bunny gets sick. When your bunny is ill, you need help quickly and you won't have time to "shop" for a vet. If you are ever in question about your rabbit's health, call your veterinarian for advice.
Tooth grinding: Loud tooth grinding is a sure sign of pain. Note: This tooth grinding is different from the softer "tooth purring" you may hear when you snuggle and kiss Bun's face!
Body heat: Rabbits regulate body temperature by their ears. Very cold or hot ears could indicate a fever or a drop in body temperature. This, coupled with other warning signs could warrant a trip to the vet.
Runny eyes or nose, labored breathing or chronic sneezing: These could indicate an upper respiratory infection, a blocked tear duct or other problems. See your veterinarian.
Wet chin or drooling: Usually a sign of tooth problems, or malocclusion. You may also notice a decrease in appetite and ability to eat hard foods such as whole carrot. See your veterinarian. Left untreated, tooth problems can lead to infection of the jaw bone, which is very difficult to treat. Depending on the severity of the misalignment, your rabbit's teeth may need to be trimmed regularly. In severe cases, teeth can be pulled.
Loss of balance or a head tilt: This is most often a sign of wry neck, which is an inner ear infection, but could also be an indication of E. cuniculi. This can occur very suddenly. Although treatment can be lengthy, and improvement not noticeable for about 10 days, wry neck may be cured if treatment is begun quickly.
Excessive itching or scratching, head shaking: Fleas, ear mites and/or fur mites are the usual culprits. In some ear mite cases, scabs can be seen in the ear canal. Your veterinarian will decide what treatment is needed. If one rabbit in your house has mites, it is best to have all the rabbits checked, as mites can be transferred easily.
Fleas are common in the summer months. Although they may seem harmless, flea infestations can kill rabbits, dogs and cats by causing a deadly case of anemia. Dust your pet with 5% Sevin dust and use a flea comb (no flea collars, or flea dips unless prescribed by a good rabbit vet). Have your carpet steam-cleaned or treated with a commercial borate-compound product to kill the flea eggs and larvae. The borate treatment is usually guaranteed for a year. Be sure the products used are safe for rabbits. (Rule of thumb: If it's safe for kittens, it is usually safe for adult rabbits.)
Sore hocks: This is when the fur on the rabbit's hock, or heel, is worn down to the bare skin or, in severe cases, to the bone. Sometimes the rabbit forms calluses and get along just fine. Problems arise when the skin turns into an open wound. You may notice the rabbit favoring a foot as he tries to avoid putting weight on his hocks.
Causes are numerous, including wire cage bottoms with no resting area, a damp resting board, wet bunny beds or dirty litterboxes. Overweight and large-breed rabbits are particularly prone to sore hocks, as are the Rex breeds, since they do not have a lot of padding on their feet.
If there are open wounds on your rabbit's hocks or if the area is swollen, see your veterinarian. To prevent sore hocks, give your rabbit a soft, clean resting area. Also, keep your rabbit's weight within normal range, and examine your rabbit regularly.
Blood in the urine, straining to urinate: The two may or may not go hand in hand. While certain foods can turn urine red, actual blood in the urine can be a sign of cancer, bladder infection or urinary stones. If your rabbit is straining to urinate or is "leaking" puddles outside the litterbox, you should be concerned. You may also notice "urine burn," caused when urine-soaked fur keeps the skin underneath damp and irritated. Antibiotics maybe needed, so take your rabbit to his veterinarian.
In one end, out the other: Your rabbit's litterbox contains a wealth of information. A healthy digestive tract will produce large, round fecal pellets. Increasingly smaller, irregularly shaped droppings or droppings strung together with fur (or carpet) may indicate a problem. Proper grooming by you, especially during a molt, and plenty of fresh hay will help produce optimum digestive tract health, along with appealing to the rabbit's urge to chew.
Lumps and bumps: Abscesses and tumors can be serious and should be checked by your veterinarian as soon as possible.
Loss of appetite or lethargy: Even a rabbit can have a "bad hare day." But if your rabbit refuses his usual fresh food or any of his special treats, and seems particularly lethargic, you should call your rabbit's veterinarian right away. We encourage you to observe your rabbit's behavior, activity level and droppings daily. Each rabbit is different and knowing what is normal behavior for your rabbit could save his life.
Good and Bad Medicines
ORAL penicillins such as Amoxicillin and Clavamox can kill your rabbit. INJECTABLE penicillin Procaine G with Benzathine is a fairly safe antibiotic for rabbits. Oral penicillins destroy the good gut flora and can kill your rabbit shortly after administration of the drug, or up to three weeks after the drug has been taken.
If there is a GI upset, good bacteria in the gut can be replaced by cecal pellets from a healthy rabbit or with Probios (Bene-bac) supplement, obtainable through your veterinarian.
Good bunny antibiotics include Baytril (enrofloxacin); Diprofloxacin; Chloramphenicol (viceton is the tablet form); Tetracycline; Trimethoprime/Sulfa (Bactrim); Sulfamethazine; and Amalcacin and Gentomycin (short-term use only; 3-5 days due to nephrotoxicity).
Good bunny analgesics (pain medicine) include aspirin; Butorphenol (torbugesic); and Flunixin (banamine).
Remember, do not administer any medications to your rabbit without consulting a veterinarian well versed in rabbit care.
Click Here for Website!
Essential Links:
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Main Site:
1. FAQs about Rabbits and Rabbit Care
2. House Rabbit Society Rabbit Care Guide
3. Rabbit information - www.fuzzy-rabbit.com
4. Rabbit References - Health and Medicine (I think this site is quite good, worth to lookup)
5. Pet Rabbit Information And Rabbit Fun
Picture Reference for Breed of Rabbits:
1. ARBA American Rabbit Breeders Association
2. Another Website for Breed of Rabbits
1. FAQs about Rabbits and Rabbit Care
2. House Rabbit Society Rabbit Care Guide
3. Rabbit information - www.fuzzy-rabbit.com
4. Rabbit References - Health and Medicine (I think this site is quite good, worth to lookup)
5. Pet Rabbit Information And Rabbit Fun
Picture Reference for Breed of Rabbits:
1. ARBA American Rabbit Breeders Association
2. Another Website for Breed of Rabbits
Veterinary Contacts:
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Animal Medical Centre - 24 hours! Good for emergencies
Segar Pets Centre & Veterinary Services
2, Jalan Manis 3
Taman Segar, Cheras
56100 KL
Tel: 03 9133 4192, 03 9133 2343 (Dr. Chong)
St. Angel Animal Medical Centre (just behind tesco)
No. 56, Jalan Bandar 13
47100 Puchong
Tel: 03 5891 1884 (Dr. Irinda Toh)
Subang Animal Centre Sdn. Bhd.
9, Jln SS 18/6, Subang Jaya
47500 Petaling Jaya
Tel: 03 5636 9008
Tel/Fax: 03 5637 2660
Emergency: 03 4042 6742
Please let me know if you have other contact
Segar Pets Centre & Veterinary Services
2, Jalan Manis 3
Taman Segar, Cheras
56100 KL
Tel: 03 9133 4192, 03 9133 2343 (Dr. Chong)
St. Angel Animal Medical Centre (just behind tesco)
No. 56, Jalan Bandar 13
47100 Puchong
Tel: 03 5891 1884 (Dr. Irinda Toh)
Subang Animal Centre Sdn. Bhd.
9, Jln SS 18/6, Subang Jaya
47500 Petaling Jaya
Tel: 03 5636 9008
Tel/Fax: 03 5637 2660
Emergency: 03 4042 6742
Please let me know if you have other contact
Grooming for Bunnies (Trimming fur, Nail clipping, Shower, etc)
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Exotica Pets
No. 42G, Jalan Pandan Indah 4/6B
Pandan Indah
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 012 656 9998, 016 928 8179
Tel2: 03 4291 1998, 03 4294 4998
Price (estimate): RM 50
The Pet Family (it's at Taman Megah next to the food court)
Lot 10991, Jalan SS24/8
Taman Megah
47301 Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 03 7805 2342, Fax: 03 7804 1057
Website: Click Here!
Price (estimate): RM 30
Petsmore, Cheras
QP17, Block A, Queen's Park,
Retail Centre, Jalan Shelley,
55100, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03 9205 6449
Website: Click Here!
No. 42G, Jalan Pandan Indah 4/6B
Pandan Indah
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 012 656 9998, 016 928 8179
Tel2: 03 4291 1998, 03 4294 4998
Price (estimate): RM 50
The Pet Family (it's at Taman Megah next to the food court)
Lot 10991, Jalan SS24/8
Taman Megah
47301 Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 03 7805 2342, Fax: 03 7804 1057
Website: Click Here!
Price (estimate): RM 30
Petsmore, Cheras
QP17, Block A, Queen's Park,
Retail Centre, Jalan Shelley,
55100, Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03 9205 6449
Website: Click Here!
Pet Shop that have Bunnies Supplies
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Oxbow Pellets is available at:
1. PLC (Ikano Power Centre)
2. PLC (Sunway Pyramid)
3. Pet Shack (Sunway Mentari)
4. Pets More (Carrefour Kepong Branch)
5. Aquarium Kosas (Ampang Indah)
6. Beh Rabbit Stall (Amcorp Mall)
Petsmore Store Locator
Website: Click Here!
The Pet Family (it's at Taman Megah next to the food court)
Lot 10991, Jalan SS24/8
Taman Megah
47301 Petaling Jaya.
Tel: 03 7805 2342, Fax: 03 7804 1057
Website: Click Here!
Petssion Online Pet Shop in Singapore (They do delivery to Malaysia too)
Website: Click Here!
Pet Shack
Website: Click Here!
Chinchillas (LYN) - Quality 2nd Cut Timothy Hay from Nevada U.S
Website: Click Here!
11Jan (LYN) - Chew Toys for Small Animals
Website: Click Here!
DIY Hay Rack Guide
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Courtesy from jasswp
1. Hay Rack - Top View
2. Hay Rack - Inside View
You can opt to buy from Pets Wonderland and it cost around RM20+
1. Hay Rack - Top View
2. Hay Rack - Inside View
You can opt to buy from Pets Wonderland and it cost around RM20+
Rabbit Banners
Feel free to use the banners listed below
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Common:
1. Banner #1
2. Banner #2
3. Banner #3
4. Banner #4
5. Banner #5
6. Banner #6
7. Banner #7 <-- Updated on January 2008
Small Group Dedication:
1. Dedication #1
Celebrations:
1. Holiday Banner #1
2. Holiday Banner #2
1. Banner #1
2. Banner #2
3. Banner #3
4. Banner #4
5. Banner #5
6. Banner #6
7. Banner #7 <-- Updated on January 2008
Small Group Dedication:
1. Dedication #1
Celebrations:
1. Holiday Banner #1
2. Holiday Banner #2
Farm Breeder Contacts:
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1. Beh (016 314 4666)
The farm is located at Hulu Rincing, Semenyih on the way to Kesuma Lake, Beranang
The farm is located at Hulu Rincing, Semenyih on the way to Kesuma Lake, Beranang
This post has been edited by stalkie: Jun 3 2008, 03:54 PM
Quote
and rabbit is very delicate small animals... anything extreme will lead them to death... even extreme whether like too cold or too hot... you need to make sure that the environment you setup is in between that...
maybe you can call up a few other vets, talk to them and then decide which one you're more comfortable with
MAY LOREN R.I.P 
is time for me to answer your question.
u feeding or i feeding
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