Copying this from another forum which has been going on for years. Thought it might be fun to do it here too

Post pictures of what you did (or attempted to do) recently to your bike(s). can be mods, maintenance, detailing, accesories, etc - pix or it didnt happen.

Rides not included.

Obviously I'll start... with some work done on my V1K recently.

the cheapo, generic steering damper on my v1k failed during a trip to Thailand so decided to take it apart n rebuild it.



and the final result:


also installed a couple of things as well... took me 2 days to install everything n also sort out some other minor stuff.

rear fender extender. not too happy with the bolts n nuts sticking out... may look into rivets soon for a cleaner install


new tpms to replace the previous, claimed-waterproof-but-leaky-as-shit wired tpms. this time i siliconed any and all the seams around the unit to try n keep it properly waterproof. i like this one coz the solar panel isnt massive n it acts like a small hood for the tpms.


fused power distribution box which i bought months ago and only now decided to install. RM50+ from shopee. small, easy to install and the wiring can be pretty neat.


2nd set of spotlights (the bottom one). now i can have both yellow n white as the low beam n vice versa for the high beam as well. usage will depend on riding conditions. also the reason i installed the fuse box so i can minimize headache of wiring.


This post has been edited by mADmAN: Dec 20 2023, 12:50 PM

Nothing , cuci kete, letak rain x, clean upholstery.

Change exhaust to straight pipe

Preng preng sound gooding just need to avoid police

BIKE la....not car lol

just pancutt my chain lube.....

sold my ninja 250se, use my kapcai daily work to office, once in a blue moon clean my own kapcai (live at condo, so wash bike myself is kind of hassle), and my chain easily loose, isit time to change a new one?

How did the steering damper fail? Did you notice a fluid leak? Loss of damping? Jam? Thinking of getting an RCB unit in the future if my China unit fails huhu.

For the power distribution box, how does it handle switching via ignition or is the power tapped from an ignition source only? Don't plan to get the Q3D dashcam with included tpms?

I just jerry rigged a lens protector for my dashcam from a uv filter meant for a DJI Osmo Action camera. Coincidentally the red filter matches my bike's red accents lol




This post has been edited by Nightstalker1993: Dec 18 2023, 01:31 PM

it was on full hard minus 2 clicks for highway use... luckily it failed overnight n discovered as was leaving the hotel. basically i couldnt turn my handlebar right more than halfway... it gets jammed... when i put it to softest... it turns fine.

the unit comes with 3 wires... positive, negative and acc wire. so it only turns on when the key is switched on.

no need la the Q3D... maybe further down the line.. for now... im ok with what i have... at least mine has a clock on it hahahaha

From z900 forum?

Seen your name there

Yup..n yup..thats me heh

You set your damper to 2 clicks from hard? Madness! Thank God it didn't fail while riding weyh. Thought these dampers could only fail by leaking and not jamming.

Q3D also clock, accurate gps time lagi haha. My bike itself pun ada clock

For long distance, high speed highway use only as advised by ahmad khan...coz my handle feels suuuuuuuuper light at above 180kmh....normal daily ride is ard 6 clicks from soft.

Anyway, if jammed while.riding i probably wouldn't notice...handlebar straight so ok..only slow, tight maneuvers will be affected.

Considering its cheapo china stuff...i wont be surprised something inside broke off n jammed it...but didnt notice any particles or debris when i opened it up...

Hardcore ler set it up so hard, mine is always at middle and I feel high speed straights and corners is already very nice already. Guess I'll just leave it at that setting since yours died at high damping setting

Ever seen the RCB units? From pictures they look good

I hardcore.rider.mah hahahahahahahahha

Yeah ive seen the rcb up front n played with it...build quality.mcm.gooding...was.probably gonna target that.if i couldnt get cheapo one

Oooohhh.. I've never seen it in person, just in photos. Will have to measure see if they have the correct length for me. Guess I'll just be getting that next time since the hyperpro is like 1.5k lol

Changed rear tyre, only last for 15k KM..

what on earth bike is this... tayar so so fat

change whole set
use RK KRO chains, will last very longer

thank you for suggesting, will do so for my next engine oil change

Started the new year with a bit of wrenching. The front brake pads could hold up till 25000km, but the rear has barely 1mm left. So what the hell lah, might as well take all calipers down for cleaning up, regressing & fresh brake pads installation.

My Brembo pads got held up at customs. Turns out, brake pads are considered safety items just like helmets so I hv to go thru all that shit to get them.

Meanwhile, Daytona pads are cheap & plentiful on Shopee so I got the VX Gold semi metallic ones for my front calipers & VX Black organic ones for my rear. I'm only expecting 15000km out of this setup, so fuck it.

Brembo Stylemas or any other monoblock calipers are dead easy to clean, coz they got no slide pin. 2 radial mount bolts & a retaining spring are all u need to deal with to dump the old brake pads. The bolts need to be retightened to 45nm, and bob's your uncle.

The rear is a bit of a faff to remove coz the rear tyre needs to come off to release the mount. To release the brake pads, the 5mm punch tool is absolutely indispensibe to knock the slide pin out & to knock in back in until it's seated properly to reveal the hole for the cotter pin.

Also, the brake fluid reservoirs need to be opened just enough to relieve the pressure as you manipulate the pistons to clean em & accommodate new pads.




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Wait what? My friends n i have been getting our ebc hh pads from ebay uk....n never had an issue getting them in

Ya I was surprised too. Caprimoto uses DHL, derang ni skema sikit. So I had to fill up the borang kastam and it does specify brake pads as safety items.

Nasib la.

I bought 4 pairs, enough to last me a good while when I eventually get them.

The Daytona VX Golds in the front are fukkin spongy although my brakes hv already been bled & refilled with fresh DOT4 fluid. The difference between the stock Brembo sintered pads and these semi-metallic ones are like night & day.

I'll bleed them again in a few weeks' time.

Update:

Had to cough up almost RM400 extra for the import tax, customs clearance process and stupid bonded warehousing charges plus taxes for both charges. Fuck me, it totally defeats the purpose of the purchase.

This post has been edited by ZZR-Pilot: Jan 5 2024, 02:16 PM


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I also ordered some ceramic rear brake pads from Aliexpress, just to see if they're all they're cracked up to be. These will go with the front Brembo LA pads when the current Daytona setup claps out.

Apparently no hang-ups with kastam either.



This post has been edited by ZZR-Pilot: Jan 1 2024, 10:58 PM

D400 20k mileague
Chain , sprockets , engine air filter , spark plugs , engine oil , coolant changed.
Next change is tyres hahaha

Same, bought before EBC HH pads from Ebay for my previous Yamaha and it arrived without issues. Lucky me...

What's the damage?

Got a set of triple locks. Swapped the key barrels out so I can use a single key for the panniers and top box. Took about an hour.


Didn't check properly....ended ordering these aftermarket ones and not ori givi. So fitment a bit sloppy and uses normal keys compared to the better flat blade keys that came with the cases. Had to reuse some of the original hardware.

Cost about 70. Ordered from shopee
https://shp.ee/nkmzswn

This post has been edited by jaycee1: Jan 8 2024, 07:14 PM

Eh nice...been thinking of doing this too....but but but...my panniers r givi n top box shad....dunno if can get a lock set that can fit both

ordering brake pads from oversea cheaper? might start doing the same

Cheaper only if you don't get taxed lor. Last time I ordered some special LSD oil from RHDJapan and in the end I got taxed 30% iinm, all in was almost the same price as buying local.

They *were* cheaper, until they went thru customs and incurred taxes, processing, handling & fukkin warehousing charges. So depends on your luck liao.

To give an idea of how much cheaper......if taxes n all other crap not included...

Ebc hh pads for my bike....at local workshop...front only rm350.

Buy from ebay uk including shipping...front AND rear...total rm380.including shipping

Changed my batter, only lasted for 1.5 Years.. no more warranty.. thought was a normal lead acid battery turn out its AGM.. cost more than my car battery.. CCA 315 amp = same as Myvi



This post has been edited by ajaibman: Jan 9 2024, 01:40 PM

Rm450

The VX pads have less "cuts", so it will not bite

Basically apa lanjiao that is bike related automatically kena whack 25% import tax + 10% sales tax *MININUM* without question. If you're really unlucky, kena tambah other stupid charges plus tax on top of those charges.

If your seller uses UPS, DHL etc, be prepared to have your throat slit this way.




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welp.. back to buying locally then i guess

Silly me, ride until rubber hancur. Go shop laaa replace. Not enough tools. 10 years motor this.




Same bike last week. Motor hard to start. Motor die sudden. Motor die while engage gear. Kaput the vehicle sensor down. Known to Z8 owner. Replace sendiri. Now healthy back.

Few more plan: as battery charging likely weaker .
- replace coil
- replace rectifier

my er6 also kena back in 2016 or 2017
should be the same part no
open it up, clean the bluish residue (carbon?) because water can get into it. put dielectric grease then seal again
works until now

Brake fluid changed & had all 3 calipers bled today. Pumped half a liter of fluid thru to make sure all the old fluid inside the ABS system is pushed out. Cheap RM5 brake bleeder from Shopee makes the job a hell lot easier.

Wife finally got her bike back yesterday after almost 1.5 months. Gave it a once-over, filled up the tank, aired up the tyres and we're all set for a brunch ride to KKB tomorrow to let her refamiliarize before she resumes riding to work next week. Will need to do her brakes too at the next oil change.

This post has been edited by ZZR-Pilot: Jan 13 2024, 08:39 PM


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Fuel blinking, far from home, stop by petronas, open flap n saw a tonne of white powder...same kind on older wet cell battery terminals...tough time putting in the key..once in couldnt turn....sigh.

Managed to open n fuel up after purchasing multi purpose cleaner.

Got home, picked up my wd40 n sprayed the fuck out of the key barrel..n more.of this shit came out...n i mean sprayed a tonne of wd40 til my rag was actually drenched yet this stupid powder still kept coming out. Spray sampai puas hati.

Leaving it to dry...gonna send to bike wash tomorrow if i have time....then more wd40...then let dry again...then only will put some lube into the barrel.

I really hate kawasaki key barrels...annoyingly the one exposed to crap the most, the one we rarely use, the seat key, is the one that never gives problems on both my bikes.

corroded metal inside the barrel?

how much fuel you fill everytime? is it always full to the brim and the fuel touches the bottom of the tank cap?

no idea... maybe its sulfur build up for whatever reason. this happened on my versys.... spoke to a friend who also has a versys and he says normal.

this powder thing never happened on my z900 though.

to the brim... n mebbe more... not sure if it touches... but maybe it does... but like i said above.. this happened to my v1k n not my z9... both same fill up habits.

i have some similarish issue with my tank lock, first got it it was completely seized, this is a fairly new bike.

i see whitish gunk in there, if i spray wd40, it turned into gunk, clean all i want it keeps reappearing. seems like some kinda waxy substance yamaha put in there that dries out due to petrol vapors. so i just regularly dump in singer oil, its messy if i wash the bike but at least it doesnt get stuck. no idea how to cleanout all that stuff whatever it is.

https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questio...orcycle-gas-cap

once it started, it will keep happening
I tell my friends, just change the gas cap immediately, worst thing get stuck at a petrol station or key broke, not fun

Interesting, thanks for the link, though mine isnt as bad as the pic there...mine is just outside n in the key barrel....for now, n since my friend said normal, ill just have to be more diligent in cleaning n lubing the barrel.

Mention ethanol in the link....wonder if the PTT gasohol 95 had anything to do with it hahaha

unless you leave the gasohol for 1 month inside the tank, I doubt it came from Thai Petrol.. first think the ethanol will eat your fuel line and all the rubber seals of your fuel pump.

my friend any mine both kena the latch, the sliding lock mechanism jam

I think it's mainly water and I believe older bikes get it
quality of the parts will determine whether kena later, or earlier

that's on older bikes, I think, with the rubber less tolerant to ethanol

ethanol and water, adding the time sitting, separating from the fuel... yes, will cause a problem in old and new systems
zinc corrosion is relatively faster, within a few days, enough to seize the fuel cap mechanism

That's quite common no?

Even the tank lock on the pulsars and dominar gets seized up if you are lax on keeping it cleaned and lubed up.

I got stuck at a fuel station once because I couldnt get the bloody tank open. Fortunately I had enough gas to get home. Soaked with with WD40 overnight. Then everything is working as it should.

you get the feeling, I was stuck once too, right before a convoy and headed home; it sucks; so I just tell riding buddies, don't fill to the brim, else the fuel will slosh and splash on the zinc causing it to corrode and cease, or just change it before they stuck again

it's common in my circle as well, older japanese bikes (kawa, yamaha) like 2000-2010 bikes

now, the V1000 is relatively new, but also not very new, I guess, so it is starting now

for Bajaj based bikes, I guess it can happen sooner if the quality of the raw material is subpar compared to Japanese, just a matter or time. looking at the wiki on zinc corrosion, as long as it has contaminant (lead, mainly) it will eventually corrode. I have quite a few old fuel caps in store, they corrode in storage

For context, my v1k is a 2013 bike

Also this key barrel thing also happens to ignition barrel. But the seat barrel...which is more exposed to crap never gives a problem

fuel cap touches fuel tank
ignition barrel inside has electrical switching and mechanical steering lock mechanism
meanwhile, the seat barrel is 'less' electrically connected to the bike

based on these, I'm guessing maybe galvanic corrosion is part of the reason
- assuming those white powder is really zinc oxide, and is caused by galvanic corrosion, then zinc is usually sacrificial metal that corrodes first

maybe the fuel tank lip where the fuel cap latch touches it no longer have paint covering it, and the latch is directly touching the tank metal? just a guess

anyhow, for the tank cap, you gonna replace it soon? or just use it while keeping it lubed?

Naah..not gonna replace...after the drowining of wd40, it works fine...just need to lube it up n keep it lubed.

Dun wanna change the cap coz dun wanna carry extra key...i already have to carry 3 keys with this bike..malas wanna add more

The odd white/greyish phenomenon is called zinc rot. Most motorcycle lock barrels are made with material that has zinc blends, copper plating on the lock pins + rain accelerate the process. With the recent downpour of rain and rise in humidity, I've had plenty of bikes that comes in to my workshop having the same issue, while i agree and share the same sentiment with kawa locks, all bikes irregardless of make and model, new or old, could potentially have the same problem. And once they happen, it will happen again, eventually, to the point your lock barrel gets weakened so much, it'll jam completely as the pins gets dislodged from their barrel slots.


On a more important side of things, while WD40 might/might not work, if you've used wd40, please be sure to let it dry completely before applying any sort of lube. WD40, as the name itself imply, are "water displacers", hence whatever lube applied after that might get "displaced" and wouldnt stick to parts you intend to lubricate. Alternative product you can use to attempt "unstucking" the locks, are graphite lubes, people had good results from it, you can get them cheap on shopee or hardware stores. Any regular lube works fine, avoid cleaners with high flash point(carb/brake cleaners) as they will make your lock barrel brittle. I've seen great result using DOT4 brake fluid as well, I'm no chemist and isnt sure how it helped, but it did. So if you ever get stumped somewhere, stucked cap, no lubes whatsoever, might be worth a short opening up your rear(worst case front) brake reservoir, dip something in it and drop it into the hole (your keys).

Regardless of what fix and what has been applied, its always a good idea while its still isnt completely jammed and broken, disassemble the lockset, clean it up thoroughly from inside, regrease them then have the oring on the tank flap(flap that covers the keyhole) replaced or oiled (hydrated) to keep water from seeping in.

This post has been edited by Vi Merkz: Jan 16 2024, 12:08 AM

Link n more.info.pls...this is the one with the one way valve right?

Meaning u dont need to tighten n loosen the bleed nipple? That how it works?

Thinking of swapping out my 1yo, 15k km brake fluid... currently using bendix but dunno what brand to try next

Yes it's basically a 1-way valve. Attach the contraption to your bleed nipple, crack the bleed screw open just enough to allow decent flow (not all the way or you'll undo the whole thing!!) and simply pump away at the brake lever till you're happy. When you're done, retighten the bleed screw and bob's your uncle.

Be advised that some brake nipples like mine won't fit the tube included in the kit (the tube is too small). If that's the case you'll need a silicone tube of the appropriate size (by ID measurement or internal diameter).

https://shopee.com.my/1Pcs-Motorcycle-Clutc...df-4cd1ea9726cb

https://shopee.com.my/1-Meter-27-sizes-0.5m...0c-4e4f3b2c27a9

This post has been edited by ZZR-Pilot: Jan 17 2024, 10:58 AM

Bought China DB killer from Shopee, it pop out when revving the bike



Finally notice my exhaust system might be a real akra



key wont't open at petrol station, bring back home and spray silicone lube

failed to open tank

had to bring the bike to nearby shop, after 5 minute of spraying WD40 mechani manage to open the tank

maybe the slipon is ori akra
K* is for Kawasaki, not a Yamaha one

How do you read the exhaust code?

the welding joint is very clean that's why i think is ori akra

or exhaust from shopee is become good?

from your pic here macam it has a code


but this pic macam is fake akra


found this on aliexpress, looks similar:

This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 22 2024, 01:47 PM

Replying topic : sold off my brixton .. got a vespa

This post has been edited by thaifans: Jan 22 2024, 02:42 PM

there are decent replica systems out there, you pay more lah, ur piping dont look ori, muffler no idea.

on topic: replaced engine block and piston for one of my bikes

previously, piston ring caught in exhaust port and broke the piston, causing the engine to cease due to a chunk of metal getting caught between the piston and engine head

might be a copy exhaust


makes sense

Look like copy exhaust for me...

are you guys able to differentiate copy and ori exhausts based on the sounds?

they sound similar to me and I doubt performance wise would be any different... its just a steel pipe right?

i cannot

i not kesa with that the exhaust is ori or copy, as long the the sound make me feel good then i am okay with it

Just bought this Benelli Leoncino 250 Se abs 2019, 12k mileage from Imotorbike Glenmarie.

Just did a front tire change to Michelin 110/70 R17 for RM260 at glenmarie 55 workshop. Back tire just changed by Imotorbike, but they changed to a wrong size tire at 140/70R17, the original size is 150/60R17. Currently the back tire is rubbing the mud guard🤦. And coolant have been added by myself, due to it was below the "lowest" indicator. I dont know how they said it was fully inspected before selling to customer.😔

Next is engine when idling, the rpm keep going up and down by 500rpm. Tomorrow will have to go fix that, and the tire. Fingerscross can claim back the coolant money i spent.🤣


Also my chain will need some cleaning and lubing, I did saw ipone cleaning kit if that is good... And i need help with cleaning of the rust on the exhaust pipe.

If someone know how to locate the battery for Leoncino 250 please hit me up, i cant find it below the seats.




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oof thats pretty awful from a place supposedly specialize in selling used bikes

I think the chain cleaning kit is fine, but the good old kerosene and chain lube method should be cheaper
For cleaning the exhaust manifold, can try the harpic method from youtube although there is concern of the steel being thinner because of the strong acid.
else just get autosol and gosok gosok.
You might need to take off the whole manifold throughout this process, your bike is just one cylinder so shouldnt be that hard

if battery not under the seat, then its probably under the tank above the radiator

Dont waste money with branded cleaning kits...just get kerosene n the chain cleaner brush...just make sure its kerosene...some will sell.u turpentine coz it looks n smells the same but theyre not the same. lots of hardware stores dont sell this anymore n some newer, younger generation ones have never even heard of it. Can still be easily found if u look hard enough. Diesel works as well but its a little tougher to get off once ur done.

Chain lube up to u what u wanna use but id recommend WD-40 Specialist Chain Lube. Cheap n actually lasts on the chain.

Exhaust, can use the harpic trick + scouring pad...but do not ever use it on the muffler. Itll eat the mufflers coating and make it look like shit. I learned that the hard way.

Sorry to hear abt the bike...but at least u have a project on ur hands now to slowly get it back to what it should be.

Edit: can give google maps link to this glenmarie 55 workshop? I might need a tire next week

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jan 26 2024, 01:15 AM

Kerosene, turpentine, diesel..... not recommended to be used on chains with o-rings.

then must wash the chain with chain cleaner ?

whichever that is o-ring or x-ring safe.

Fuyohh... ini kedai jual motor takde warranty ke?

do you mind to recommended the cleaner is safe for o-ring and x-ring please ?

im using this



just for knowledge



This post has been edited by skyblu3: Jan 26 2024, 11:24 AM

https://maps.app.goo.gl/4NnZaSxrueif7zRcA



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I did look at ipone on shopee, but wd-40 works too? Will it damage the chain or give not enough lube to it?

thx for the recommendation

from the test done by fortnine @7:05, WD40 passed the test.

i sometimes use WD40 if my chain gets too dirty. clean it with WD40 first , the use mucoff.
if not i just use mucoff (smells nice, fruity).

mucoff chain lube smells like strawberry. first ride after lubing, you can actually catch the strawberry scent.

Kerosene actually is the most recommended cleaner...its even the active ingredient in alot of branded chain cleaners.

Turpentine no coz its petroleum based.

So yes...use kerosene. Not turpentine. Theyre o-ring safe.


As for wd40, should be safe...but the mr diy knock off wd40 better not coz thats also petroleum based.

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jan 26 2024, 11:51 AM

@7:24
no thanks.

Lol...dunno abt that test tbh...i have doubts.

Got some have rendam orings in multiple fluids...1 guy over a year...n kerosene came out as the best condition o ring. Which ryan even mentioned in that video

Ill save my money n stick to kerosene

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jan 26 2024, 12:00 PM

yeah, heard that too before.

but i play safe. I will not save money on these things. use proper cleaners.
not taking any chances. oring failure can also cause chain break.
imagine chain break at high speed. you'll be lucky if the chain didn't get snag onto the wheel.
and chain break can cause more damages to the bike.



This post has been edited by skyblu3: Jan 26 2024, 12:07 PM