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 What did you do to your bike today?, Or quite recently...

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bo093
post Mar 1 2024, 07:47 PM

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Slapped some tank pad from aliexpress on the RC200.

bo093
post May 1 2024, 06:03 AM

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I was dissapointed in KTM RC200 v2 headlamp.
Malaysian spec, came with halogen headlamp.
Night time was horrible for me.
Light intensity and beam wasn't great.
But I ignored it and after a while, I damaged the headlamp by accident. (Cloth over the headlamp)

So why not upgrade to LED headlamp from other market spec or RC390.
Bought it from India for a bargain through a proxy in Malaysia.

Suprisingly easy to reach the headlamp, made a PnP harness for it as there was none available.
And tadaaaa, feel safer during night commute if needed.

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Video of low beam and high beam: https://imgur.com/vL5BO5J
bo093
post May 1 2024, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ May 1 2024, 03:37 PM)
Nice..but I would worry more than that stock mrf tyre than the headlamp....lol.
*
Bwahaha, still finding out what tyres to change to. hmm.gif
bo093
post Jun 30 2024, 12:06 PM

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4 weeks ago
Swap out for adjustable lever so my finger can reach with comfortable range of operation.
I had to machine the clutch side to be thinner to match factory dimension, as it binds. doh.gif (oh well china stuff)
The brake side just need to match the pushrod(?) housing/hole to get it sit nicely.

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(29/6/24)
So after 7k KM mileage, I decided to clean the fork dust/wiper seal.
The owner manual on the KTM made it sound easy, but that wiper seal was a pain to remove, thankfully had plastic trim removal tool to mitigate any damage if I had to use a flat head.
They say push, I had to pry it.

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Clean it and grease it like in the other thread recommendation.
bo093
post Jul 1 2024, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Jul 1 2024, 09:22 AM)
I think there's light adhesive, you could use a nylon/polyester string, wrap around the seal/tube boundary, and tighten the loop to separate it without harm... first time is usually the most difficult. And if you're sensitive, you can feel the harshness reduce or at least the front end feels better. In my case, parking the bike for many weeks wouldn't cause the oil seal to dry up, and then leaving a film of fork oil on the shiny tube when I ride it again.
*
would try that method the next round.
you're right the front end feels better, to be precise, i feel less stiction.

bo093
post Nov 16 2024, 07:52 PM

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Last week
Added some radiator guard and it replaces the bottom half grille.
It kinda slows down cooling, doesn't overheat. Just longer fan run time.
And meanwhile change out the fairing bolts to alu bolts. Just because rust on standard bolts annoyed me.
bo093
post Dec 30 2024, 06:01 PM

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So my lil RC200 needed new clutch.
11 months old & 16,xxxKM

Either I'm bad with the clutch, riding too agreesive or something is wrong.
Oil was @ 14xxKM and is dark. Usually around 3-4k KM mark then is dark.
Then there was the ocassional slip in 4th.

Change both friction and intermediate plate.
tobaki kevlar friction plate & bajaj intermediate plate.

Old clutch pack was worn unevenly like is being pressed on one side only.

This post has been edited by bo093: Dec 30 2024, 06:01 PM
bo093
post Dec 31 2024, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Dec 31 2024, 10:23 AM)
new bike not under warranty? Especially if its worn unevenly.

My clutch on the dominar lasted 65k km. I'm aware that the 390 clutch and 200 clutch is slightly different, but 16k is unusually premature.
*
Bike is under warranty, but being a wear & tear item and 16k mileage.
Getting a warranty for defect is a long shot. Rather skip that.

Yeah 390 & 200 are different clutch set.
Yet KTM & bajaj have minor difference apparently.

KTM has dimple on the iron/intermediate plate, Bajaj don't.
KTM is a 5+1, bajaj is 6 friction plate.

QUOTE(mADmAN @ Dec 31 2024, 11:24 AM)
By any chance did u use car engine oil? Or non bike rated oils?
*
All previous oil change came from the dealer and nothing inbetween.


I would show the bad plate of uneven wear, but didn't take it.
After New year, i might show it if anyone wanna see it.
bo093
post Jan 22 2025, 12:22 AM

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Since I work in automotive and being absorber specialist.
Today I decided, I need to change the oil and revalve my monoshock for my lil RC 200.
The oil degraded way too fast, around 13-14K KM mark, I felt uncomfortable.
Hoping different oil brand keep it feeling good and slower oil degradation.
Revalve, because the monoshock was never built for a person, it was built for the mass.

18,000KM is when the work is done.

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Overall, more firm and more controlled rebound.

I guess now I need to work on the fork. doh.gif

This post has been edited by bo093: Jan 22 2025, 12:23 AM
bo093
post Jan 22 2025, 08:47 PM

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QUOTE(RoofTopPrince @ Jan 22 2025, 11:06 AM)
Hi, may I know do you accept order for my mono also of I wan to revalve?
*
We do accept, although you need to send just the mono.
PM me for more info.
bo093
post Mar 24 2025, 08:16 PM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Mar 24 2025, 04:02 PM)
Swaped in a set of UG USD forks on my V1 Dominar. Also changed the stock 2 pot axial front caliper to the UG's 4 pot radial unit and a new front mudgard along with the triple clamps.

The Dominar rides like a new bike now. Steering bearing and forks seal busted, so it's a night and day difference.

Yes, the front wheel and brake disc spins the wrong way around (since the UG has brakes the other side of the bike) but I'm nitpicking. Will have to rotate the front tyres to the right rotation.
*
does it feel less flimsy?
i always wonder about USD vs telescopic rigidity.
bo093
post Jul 13 2025, 02:39 PM

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QUOTE(Patent @ Jul 11 2025, 11:23 PM)
I've seen some vids on people taking out the fuel injector and clean it.
But it also makes sense to just pour into the fuel tank and let it clean itself... hmm.gif
*
actual injector cleaning is different to pour in tank method.

bench cleaning the injector via ultrasonic bath and changing the filter basket.
great for injector(s), but your valves/combustion chamber are untouched.
but if you ride agressively once a while, your engine can self remove those deposits.

pour in, you're cleaning the fuel system or anything that fuel touches.
works well if the considering the brand used and combine with agressive riding.





bo093
post Jul 19 2025, 01:23 PM

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After months of trying to figure whats making crazy vibration at the footpegs.
It reveals itself, a crack at the exhaust manifold.
And remove the secondary cats at the same time.

user posted image
bo093
post Jul 20 2025, 08:18 AM

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QUOTE(Patent @ Jul 19 2025, 08:42 PM)
what bike? that looks like a big single cylinder, ktm 690?
*
This is the 2nd gen RC200.
Looks big because the cats has been remove.
bo093
post Jul 21 2025, 10:18 PM

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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Jul 21 2025, 09:54 AM)
workshop looks like it does suspension rebuilds....... given the tools.. hahahaha
*
yup, mostly focus on car suspension.
once in a blue moon, somebody send in motorcycle shock.
bo093
post Jul 26 2025, 06:58 AM

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I drop the front or raised the fork tube.
To gain better turn in or aglity.
I be damned, less fatigue trying to manhandle the bike through corners or tight manuvers.
Wish I had done earlier, I am a bit wee smaller frame compare to other riders. bangwall.gif

I'm guessing KTM had those lines for people to adjust the bike geometry to their liking.
Doesn't feel nervous at higher speed.

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bo093
post Aug 30 2025, 01:38 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 29 2025, 11:18 PM)
Not much discussion, because I feel most ppl kena kecam if they mix their tyres. so, usually, just keep quiet - some more I'm mixing brands

I don't encourage ppl to mix tyres, I do it out of curiosity
If anything, I would try Power5 front + Road5 rear

- I could find Road 5 rear on bargain, so I bought 2. Didn't find any fronts.
- I found M9RR on bargain, but before I pasang, the Racetec RR finished until wire showing

I'm hoping, the Road5 finishes fast enough, then I pasang the 2nd one, and then change front and back together. This is probably 20k later. I doubt the M9RR will last that long, maybe 13k~15k at most. I finished the Roadtec01 front in 12k iinm. So, now I'm hanging with the M9RR+Road5 combo. Which is ok, because the M9RR is sports with a little bit of touring DNA to it and the Road5 is a touring with sports DNA on the shoulder compound.

After I'm done with this, I think I'll go back to being 'normal'

if fun factor is big for you, for riding a motorcycle, I would say try not to think about saving money with tyres. if anything happens, saving money on tyres is not worth it

usually, losing the front, you get a lowside; losing the rear, also lowside, but there's a chance the rear recovers and then becomes a highside - thinking along this line, the rear is very important

Since you're on a 400, which is a 110/120 + 140/150 combo, I'd say the tyre cost is not as high. Just go Radial next time, and really enjoy the ride.
I've recently seen a few dudes using Rosso Sport (cross ply) on a 250, and no chicken strips on the front. He is that good.
*
how about rain wise with mixed tyre?

 

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