What did you do to your bike today?, Or quite recently...
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 Jul 26 2024, 10:37 PM
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#1
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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 26 2024, 05:40 PM) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Btw, do you just pour the engine oil back to the bottles and bring it to the workshop? I made a mess out of my place while pouring it into the bottles the last time round, think I need a drain pain with a proper nozzle next time round. |
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Jul 30 2024, 10:41 PM
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#2
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Problem with those bikes, even if they are reliable is that you'll have problem getting the parts, and you can't avoid wear and tear even if your bike is as reliable as the Japanese.
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Aug 13 2024, 09:01 PM
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#3
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But technically we should follow the recommended mileage on the engine oil, if it states so right?
For example, on the Mizu it says 3K KM, so even if my bike says I should only change every 12K KM I should just do it at 3K KM given that the engine oil states so. I do noticed most engine oils will not state the recommended mileage. This post has been edited by JustForFun: Aug 13 2024, 09:03 PM |
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Aug 14 2024, 09:56 PM
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#4
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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Aug 14 2024, 06:29 PM) It depends on the crankcase oil capacity. Bigger bikes have more oil and hence longer OCI. For your usage, do you notice an increase in vibration or gear change smoothness as your oil age, even at the rate you put in the miles?The oil itself doesn't necessary degrade but the additives do and the oil gets dirty. Some engines will run dirtier than others. My NK800s 10k (factory oci is 15k, but I change at 10k) oil looks noticeably cleaner than the 5k oil in the Dominar. (2.8L vs 1.8L) Most factory recommended oic is now 10k or 1 year. The one year is due to a sparingly used bike that does not necessarily get hot long enough to evaporate off moisture in the crankcase. Sure there is no harm other than your wallet or the environment to do a short OCI  Some people say the 'butt test' should be the indicator to when you change your oil, when the engine/gear change becomes noticeably harsher and that's when you know it's time to change the oil, but I don't think I ride it enough distance/frequency to be able to tell the drop in ride quality. |
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Aug 18 2024, 03:45 PM
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#5
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Just clocked 2K KM after my previous oil change, it's definitely louder now for cold starts and at lower speed it's a bit rougher but not enough to affect riding experience. Starting to enjoy the sound of my 400, there's a nice whistling sound from 15~40, and when I was riding it up my brother's condo he remarked that it sounded like an engine of an electric motor which I have always thought so. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Anyway, I cleaned my chain this week, and this is the first time I used a stand and boy does it make the experience so much more enjoyable. I opted to get the portable side stand (spoiler above) instead of a full blown paddock because I didn't want to worry about storing it and the portable stand was much cheaper (RM20+ from TB). I also don't store my bike long enough to need to put it up on a stand, so I figure I have no need for it. The portable stand does the job well, but the only problem with it is that it doesn't work on smooth surface as it would just slip away, in fact I don't think it will work on the surface shown in the picture. Also, having learned that hard bristle brushes may potentially damage O-ring, I now stick to using the painting brush only, and with diesel it's generally enough to remove the grime with my usage. Also, got a first chip on my bike on the side of the rear seat, which was frustrating but I guess it's a matter of time given the terrible condition of my office parking. Taped over it with PVC and called it a day, hopefully the seal is tight enough to prevent rust and long term damage. Have always braced the rain since getting the bike in April, but with the rain season coming up I think it's high time I get some nice disposable ponchos that will fit. alexei liked this post
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Aug 21 2024, 07:40 PM
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#6
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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 20 2024, 07:57 PM) a Ninja, right? ever consider a full system? Yep, a 400. Not planning to do any mod.. like my stuff the stock pekat way. Actually I'm also saving up to maybe get a supercub someday, just to see which one I prefer. |
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Oct 27 2024, 04:18 PM
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#7
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Cleaned my chain and front sprocket yesterday. Crazy amount of gunk at the bottom of the front sprocket cover, despite the sprocket itself being very clean. The gunk was like hard mud that I had to scrape off with my gloved finger. Now I am thinking I should probably open it up every other time or so.
I am not sure if I over-applied the chain wax or that's just the nature of it, but I saw grit splatters that stuck to my swing arm, the cover and my rim. My chain is noticeably noisy at slow speed and the bike also has a tad more vibration. Think I may have to reconsider using chain wax, or apply it very conservatively. Is there a chain cleaning/bike washing service that can do everything and have the bike be collectible in an hour or two? Think I can use my time better. |
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Oct 27 2024, 11:17 PM
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#8
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QUOTE(Patent @ Oct 27 2024, 05:56 PM) Look for bike detailing service in your area, they wash your bike, can clean the front sprocket, relube and stuff. Is it possible to ride away just right after lubing?Just tell them how to open the front sprocket cover and they would do it. My biggest complaint is being able to do this in the morning only, because I need the bike to dry throughout the day under sun so I can then lube it right before it gets dark in the evening, so I can see whether the chain is lubed well or not. Also, if I missed the morning window it gets too hot for me to do it, because I don't wanna do it in the covered porch since I will have to clean the ground after, so I usually do it roadside and spray water over the diesel and guide it to the drain. I am considering using old clothes or worn rags to soak the dripped diesel next time, and clean the wet spots on the ground after, maybe with those Daiso wet wipes. Edit: After checking the price of Shopee, a brand new set of sprocket/chain will cost me RM400 or so, makes me wonder if it's even worth taking that good care of the chain. Imagine the extra time spent amounted to a 30% increase in chain lifespan, that's only 400*0.3 = RM120 for a lot of time spent. This post has been edited by JustForFun: Oct 27 2024, 11:26 PM |
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Oct 28 2024, 03:23 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(alexei @ Oct 28 2024, 09:03 AM) ok kut Thanks, my chain is in good shiny condition (visually), thanks to the low mileage also. I think I'm spending too much time worrying over small things like that.I would look into Lithium batteries check the rollers if it is loose in the links, the shiny rollers that contacts the sprockets there are cases where the chains last longer without cleaning, and my experience tells me chains that got cleaned, will kink sooner the chain should be dry and warm when applying the lube, which makes it more tedious if you want to clean it and then apply lubes - some ppl will clean the chain, then ride the bike a bit to warm the chain before lubing it see my reply above, there are ppl who never lube their chain their whole life my riding circle got riders like this I'll just do the bare minimum going forward, I should hit 12k mileage next year, by then I'll pay a visit to 66 speedbike for fluid change and inspection, and see what they say about the chain, maybe earlier. |
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Oct 29 2024, 08:16 AM
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#10
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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Oct 28 2024, 06:38 PM) Actually I think it's how we clean chains. Printed on my RK chain box, it says specifically not to use petroleum based cleaners ( ie diesel or kerosene)or harsh chemicals with pressure washer. I use diesel because it's easily available and 66 speed bike recommends it as well. Anyway, based on my usage so far I will average 8K KM per year, it will take a long time for me to need to replace the chain unless I really abuse it, so at that cost i should really be worrying too much, just need to get it checked when I do oil change to make sure it's okay.Maybe that's why. Anyway I half expect my RK520 X ring chain to last about 25k. At 150 a set + 50 installation, it's a 200rm expenditure, once a year... I see that the standard recommendation is to clean the chain every 800KM, but given your usage thats probably too often? |
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Jun 4 2025, 09:28 PM
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#11
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Anyone with experience on Putoline oil filters?
Just got a HF204 for my bike, next to the Kawasaki oil filter from Kawasaki Serdang, it's a bit shorter but feels slightly heavier in hand than the Kawasaki one. The build quality also seems to be on the better side, the casing is noticeably sturdier and the O-ring also thicker and looks to be in pristine condition, whereas my Kawasaki one looks to be drying out. Even the packaging is better, the Kawasaki one is packaged in loose plastic where the Putoline is airtight. Makes me wonder if the one sold by Serdang motorcycle is not genuine or it's really that poorly made. |
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Jun 5 2025, 08:37 AM
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#12
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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jun 5 2025, 12:44 AM) Used putoline on my old z250 before n they work fine. I am about to do my oil change, maybe I will take some photos of the filter for comparison after I am done testing out the Putoline.Not sure of model...n yes they are definitely heavier than ori kawa. The shop i got mine from even told me they cut a putoline n an ori kawa (that was still made in thailand at the time) n said the phtoline filter material seems better....althoug i didnt see it myself. Ive used it a couple of times then switched to HAMP filters for awhile. Serdang motorcycle sells ori filters n its where i get mine from for both my z9 n v1k. They are official kawa dealers n selling fakes will get them in alot of trouble with hq. Anyway, I am treating my bike as an experiment now, let's see if using cheap offbrand oil/filter like Mizu + Putoline will break the bike, although I am fairly sure the bike will outlast my patience given my 5K yearly mileage... |
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Aug 15 2025, 01:36 PM
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#13
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Just installed a pair of IRC S99, good lord what was I missing. The tyres feel much more pliant than the Corsa S123 with the softer compound and taller sidewall.
I used to feel a lot of vibration and discomfort coming from the S123 with road undulations, even before being able to test the tyre grip I am already feeling money well spent. Condition of the Corsa S123 after 7000km of mostly city rides:  Looks like it still has 15000km in it... Credit where it's due it's a long lasting touring tyre but I can't imagine staying with it for another 2-3 years. It feels heavy and clumsy coming out of corners and vibrates a lot. This post has been edited by JustForFun: Aug 15 2025, 09:02 PM |
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Aug 23 2025, 03:24 PM
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#14
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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Aug 23 2025, 11:48 AM) The s123 lasts almost forever. I have over 20k on my rear (lost track ...it's been that long) and it's like half done. No vibration on my 150/60 though. Your tyre/ wheel balanced properly? My S123 tyre change was unplanned as I had a blowout a month into my ownership, so I didn’t know better to request for tyre balancing, but that is unlikely the reason for the vibrations as they are largely felt when I go through bad roads — which is daily because I commute on the absolutely dogshit Federal motorcycle lane (glad they announced a 20 million budget this year for the upkeep). I could tell immediately after that my bike felt slower and clumsier, because the stock Ninja/Z400 come with good Dunlop tyres that you could even do track days with, so it was definitely a downgrade.I’ve actually been reading up on tyre discussions since February, and only pulled the trigger this month. Across the Ninja 400, Duke 390, and 450SR forums, I’ve noticed a common trend: owners swap the stock 150 rear for a 140 and report noticeably better handling. It feels like there’s a consensus that most 200–400cc bikes coming with the stock 150 rear tyre would do better with a 140, so I was eager to try it out despite the long life left on my S123. This post has been edited by JustForFun: Aug 23 2025, 03:24 PM |
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Aug 25 2025, 05:10 PM
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#15
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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Aug 25 2025, 11:03 AM) Honestly, I dont see how a 140 section tyre can make the bike handle better (i read that as more agile) than a 150 section tyre, all things being equal. The physics dont support that. Since the 140 here refers to width, shouldn't it mean a less narrow and thus a more V-shaped profile with less contact patch when running straight? Basically going from U -> Va 140, usually have a taller profile being 70, which a 150 is 60. Usually, the 150/60 will have a more steeper/sharper profile and by that itself, would be more agile turning side to side. If you say the 140/70 would have more straight line grip, then i can see the reasoning behind that, the 140/70's flatter profile has the bigger contact patch at the expense of maximum lean angle. The difference is probably due to the rubber compound, construction method that contributes more to the more agile feeling as would just the profile width. As Alexi has alluded to, the difference can also be attributed to radial or Bias ply tyre construction. Radial tyres tend to be lighter than the equivalent bias ply tyre. I had 190/50 and 180/55 (stock size) on my NK before. the 190 is without doubt the more agile tyre , but I am limited by foot peg clearance leaving about 10mm of chicken strips at peg limit. The stock 180 has no chicken strips and is more secure feeling. But agility, the 190 is better. Both were Michelin Road 6 tyres. The 190 however does afford some additional leaning headroom in the "oh shit" situations you go in too hot in a corner and need that extra lean angle to make the corner. Even if it means scraping your foot pegs. and FWIW, those peg feelers serve to tell you have much tyre thread is left in a lean. The arguments you would see most often for a 140 against 150: 1) Narrower, more V-shaped profile so you can flick your bike faster 2) Less contact patch when you lean = less rolling resistance (and less grip of course) 3) The taller profile ensures you have more leaning angle to work with in a corner My real world experience has been improved handling, but that's probably more because the S123 isn't designed for good handling. This post has been edited by JustForFun: Aug 25 2025, 05:12 PM |
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Aug 26 2025, 06:44 PM
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#16
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QUOTE(jaycee1 @ Aug 26 2025, 08:33 AM) Yes, all things being equal. On that note, the Ninja 250 has the same rim sizes and frame design as the 400, with a small weight difference (5kg~) but is fitted with 140/70/17 rear.But you forgot that the profile height also contributes to how sharp the the tyre can be. Most 140 tyre are 70 height, while 150 tyre are 60. , unless you ride and ADV with 150/70 profile tyres. As with anything, this is just generalization as manufacturer can make the profile as flat or as steep as they want for any given profile. Another reason why some switch to 140 from 150 is 150 section tyres were actually more rare and expensive a few years ago. The 140s are more common as they are usually used on 250cc bikes. The 400cc class that uses the 150 section tyres only burst out in popularity maybe 5 years ago. Wouldn't that imply that the 140 should also be a good choice for the Ninja 400? Besides that, I was checking whether the Corsa S123 is radial or cross-ply... it seems like it's a cross-ply tyre? I have been running that with a front Dunlop Sportmax GPR-300 which is a radial tyre, interesting that the construction mismatch didn't cause any issues... despite me bringing it up to 170km/h for a couple of times. |
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Aug 27 2025, 07:00 PM
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#17
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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 27 2025, 12:57 PM) the S99 is ok as long as you like it Feeling grateful that nothing happened to me with a front radial and back cross-ply for more than a year...speed rating is H, vs the S on the GPR-300, and that's ok S123 is definitely cross ply - see tyre code, 140/70R17, with the 'R' before '17' means radial, without it means cross-ply there's a price gap between cross ply and radial some cross ply I know even comes with dual compound, such as the Maxxis Volans, maybe there are new models with dual compound now Anyway, I went for the cheapest medium soft tyres I could get as I wasn't sure if I would change my bike in the near future. If I am still with my bike the next tyre change, most likely gonna do Maxxis S98 (F1) front and Maxxis Extramaxx rear... somehow they happened to have matching tread designs. For some reason I am also starting to care a lot about tread designs on a tyre, which is why I don't like the Road 6 even though they are the best road tyres... strange how things have changed. This post has been edited by JustForFun: Aug 27 2025, 07:05 PM |
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Aug 28 2025, 07:11 PM
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#18
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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 27 2025, 10:00 PM) I mix my tyres When you say mix, do you intentionally mix them to achieve a certain effect you want or?some ppl won't you prefer a full sipe, vs a closed tread? There seems to be really strong opinions on having the same tyre models from what I saw. As to the tread design... nothing technical but more to pattern (lame I know). I like Rosso, Battlax and Timsun's TS692 design |
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Aug 29 2025, 08:13 PM
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#19
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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 29 2025, 10:14 AM) my rear tyre wears out twice as fast as the front, or sometimes 3 rear 2 front I haven't seen much discussion about this, but I am wondering why don't people deliberately put a supersport tyre front and sport touring tyre rear, maybe something like a Rosso 4 front and Angel GT rear.so, I order my tires off shopee, depending on price naturally, I don't always have a matching set Metzeler Roadtec01 set Pilot GP set Pilot GP mix Racetec RR rear Pilot GP mix Road5 rear M9RR mix Road5 rear getting too technical is no fun, and I am like that I'm learning to ride and grasp how tyre responds to my input, which I am not good at before this I dare not push the front with the brakes, scared, so usually just hard on the throttle, and I have once or maybe twice slid the rear just a bit It seems to make sense on paper, especially if you are trying to get the maximum value out of your money: 1. Braking is 90% front 2. Losing traction is a lot more dangerous in front than rear 3. You can change both tyres together 4. Front tyre contributes more to handling than rear since it's the steering tyre (personal assumption) I am planning to do this with my next tyre change just to see how it feels like. But I did already experience this somewhat with S99 front and S123 rear.... in the corner it feels awkward, there's just this feeling that your front tyre is dragging your rear tyre out of a corner, then again the S123 is a hard touring tyre and nowhere close to actual good touring tyres like the Road 6. |
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Aug 30 2025, 02:08 PM
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#20
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QUOTE(alexei @ Aug 29 2025, 11:18 PM) if fun factor is big for you, for riding a motorcycle, I would say try not to think about saving money with tyres. if anything happens, saving money on tyres is not worth it Agree, I think my riding experience has improved a lot after changing out my tyres, you just feel much more confident in the corner and with your bike overall.I put on the S123 not knowing there were better choices in the market for just a little more, and I never thought that I would want to push the limit of my bike. When I first started, I was so sure that I would only be riding the bike very conservatively. I guess you do change as you get more experienced in riding. Just one of many lessons I wished I learned on a moped instead on a big bike, then I would have saved myself some money. This post has been edited by JustForFun: Aug 30 2025, 02:11 PM |
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