Dont think you can do that.. I asked them the same question in 2020 for transferring portfolio from my own SAMY to SASG, they said cannot.

Ah ok... bro when you mean all-time high was it a market high or a USD forex high? Just wondering

That one different country/currency

But yeah, maybe cannot also if same country/currency.

No. There's no "gifting" or transfer to 3rd party option because it breaks KYC and anti-fraud/anti-bribery/anti-corruption measures. StashAway is investment account, not a digital asset/e-wallet, so transferring investments that way will cause a lot of issues related to market volatility.

This post has been edited by DragonReine: May 26 2021, 06:05 PM

I see, I see.

Thanks for the clarification.

On another note, the reason I'm asking is that I have 2 accounts. Mine and My Wife. I'm thinking it might be better to just pool everything into 1 account.

What do y'all think?

DAX license in SA will not even trigger volatility because the market is traded in US while SA is only a platform in Malaysia with trustee on behalf of your ETF holdings

Depends on your ownership but if you talking about compounding returns yes pooling all into a single and single portfolio will always gives you a better return in the long run

Unless you are the type who is worried then diversify into 2 seperate accounts with 2 different portfolio mix

how though? Shouldn't single account vs several accounts should have the same total return if the incoming funds and profit rates are identical?

E.g.
1 account of RM10 k with RM100/month, vs
2 accounts of RM5k with RM50/month to both accounts

Assuming the same profit rate, wouldn't the final returns be identical?

This post has been edited by jonoave: May 26 2021, 09:03 PM

Could be cheaper fees, if the amount pooled together can push him to a higher tier with cheaper fees.

Good point. it might be semantics, but that is not what the other poster stated with "giving better returns".

Obviously he is wrong.

Could it also be that lump sum was made at the right time too for those that eventually turned profit? I can understand what you mean, as I had those moments. Now, I'll tread according to the investment vehicle I'm subscribing too... without haste...and see if lump sum of DCA is a better approach. I'm inclined to think that both have its pros and cons, and plus a stroke of luck, it can change the outcomes. So one should not beat themselves up over it.

Market high

in theory, pooling together can help push y'alls fees to a higher tier which in theory is lesser fees.

However bear in mind the two following very significant problems:
1) There are no joint accounts in SA, so a "shared" account will only be in your sole name or in your wife's sole name. This may potentially cause problems in the event of an emergency (sudden death or total disability where the account owner loses the capability to make decisions) or a separation, the one whose name isn't linked to that account will not be able to assess their money without the help of a lawyer and a will/nupital agreement.
2) The two of you might have different risk tolerance and might have disagreements on how to manage the investment.

In practice and for practicality sake, just maintain separate accounts. functionally it makes no difference in terms of overall profits to pool together since SA invests in the exact same basket of ETFs, maybe small changes and differences between the two of you due to risk and account settings, but most likely negligible.

This post has been edited by DragonReine: May 27 2021, 01:05 AM

No because ETF buy order price are different from account to account even though on a same risk profile

2nd any dividends or payout would be less because the lesser the unit size bought less payout or dividends especially for those on fixed incomes and bond ETFs

3rd because of fractional buy order price on ETFs compounding gains would be less compared to consolidated units

No luck involved. I am not talking about accidentally lump suming during the dips.

Now if you do your homework right, as in select the right investments such as stashaway or a good stock or a good ETF, history has already proven that it rises over time. End of story.

Anytime you think it is all time high, get scared, fall back to DCA, only to prove yourself right in the first place(yes this is a good investment), yes it is rising, but then you maintain your DCA pace, you just buy less and less.

The only time DCA works better is when the market is actually going down, not up. In that case yes you get more, but it helps me not much to see that it is still actually going down. Again by the case of maths and probability of a good instrument which should generally be going up, this scenario should be way less in occurrence than the going up scenario, which you will profit more by lump sum and forget.

I dont beat myself up, I have almost not much in spare cash lying around.

But I will not shame anybody who stick to DCA.

1 and 3. SA already said that all accounts that execute on the same day get the same price. It's averaged across them all. But even if it isn't, how does that make the larger portfolio have always better return? Executing at different prices doesn't mean always executing at worse prices.

2. In SA dividends are fractional, so it's the same difference. 20c dividend on 15 units = 20c dividend on 7.5 + 7.5 units.

😅

Thanks for sharing your views.
Btw, when you said little spare cash...did you mean that you don't keep any in FDs? Reason for asking is I see more people are conserving cash. I see FDs in some ways, as cash, since returns are low, but at least still something than zero.

These days, I highly doubt anyone who says "cash" means literal bank notes and/or coins. So yes you're right - FD is in fact "cash", added with the fact that you can easily do them online, so it's not like the past where you had to go to bank counters queue to place/withdraw. It's almost as liquid as your regular saving account, but with higher interest.

My take on DCA vs lump sum (high5 if anyone said the same in this sea of 10k+ replies!):
- Why/How is DCA better for your mental/emotional state? It is because you're no longer making a decision on when to put in, so you're no longer "directly accountable" to your action.
- On the other hand with lump sum, your time of entry is in your hands. If you happened to enter at a certain peak, then the next days/weeks it dips, it's very easy to think, "damn, if only I did this a bit later", then you feel bad every time you look at this red portfolio. I'm not talking about paper hands pulling out immediately, but the psychological damage that your decision has a direct impact and it reflects on your profile.
- for SA, I am more inclined to advise to DCA for a few reasons:
1) you're here because you want someone else to manage your money, probably because you can't (knowledge, time, effort, whatever).
2) SA processing is not instantaneous (a few business days); timing the market is less effective and you have less control
3) SA has a vast portfolio that you need to track: multiple ETF, gold price, global market etc. It's a lot more difficult than focusing on a single option as compared to your DIY
- Instead, I strongly recommend lump sum approach on DIY - to actually have your own account on a brokerage and do your trading
1) each trade has a fee; you want to minimise the fee by trading as much as possible in one go
2) the opposite of points 2) and 3) for SA.
3) sure you'll feel the same pain if you lump sum at a bad timing, but what I'm saying is - feel the pain on where you have more control on so you can learn easier.

Anyway, definitely try out both and reflect on it -- that's when you'll learn what you really prefer for yourself (just be warned of the potential "lesson fee" that you may lose to market )

ah..no...i always have sufficient cash for 6 months in case no work, lying in my housing loan as prepayment.

whatever that amount is, I dont mind if I don't get significant returns from there. So if you don't have any housing loan I think either MMF(FSM CMF is a great example) or FD is fine.

After this minimal buffer, personally I have my investments which are split into buckets...so you have those long term (low risk like ASM,ASW,SSPN,PRS), medium term (SA, FSM), and equities (my DIY Peter lynch / Jack Bogle Portfolio). I have very small >10% of cash here, compared to all the other instruments like equitiy or debt or gold.

This post has been edited by lee82gx: May 27 2021, 04:28 PM

The buy price order are determined by the weightage of your portfolio because the markets are fluid hence if any additional cash deposits it will buy the most under weighted equities then only follows back by balancing based on asset allocation %

Fractional dividends are given based on unit holdings because if the unit holdings doesn’t meet the requirements of minimum units hence dividends will not be given out because fractional dividends are given to those with minimum requirements of unit holdings with at least 0.1 units

If you look at it those accounts less than USD500 chances are because the units are fractional dividends will not be given because it doesn’t meet the required minimum of usd0.01 and for example IVV at USD420 with 10% allocation in 30% SRI the unit holdings 0.1190 units with dividends of usd1 per unit the dividends are only is usd0.001190 hence doesn’t meet the required the ETFs to distribute back the dividends back to the holder

Ok.... so you're saying that there's a maximum possible shortfall of 1c for each dividend event. On average there's 2 every month, so in a year that totals 24c or RM1.

To put that into perspective, you possibly fall short of one piece of keropok lekor. A year.