I am using the bottom one.

What is the price different?




I bought at AEON BIG RM98.

Next time i go Tesco buy

Hi, today i took out all my spark plugs to check their condition and tried gaping them to almost 0.8mm.

But all my spark plugs look like this:


Half of the spark plugs body are covered with oil sludge, while half is dry and brownish. can anybody diagnose it for me?

This post has been edited by zedyll: May 3 2015, 07:45 PM

anyone could recommend any audio head unit with usb and aux in?
the cheapest realiable one
i'm currently using pioneer DEH 1450 cd player
i tried using fm modulator but it has some serious static issue (previously in my old saga nvr have such problem)
I think maybe the use of cigarette lighter interfere with the frequency
the clearest music i can listen to is CD but i'm lazy to burn disc anymore lol

Hmm maybe next time on the cables. Once I got a new cables will definitely reupload here for the resistance to compare.

For the distributor cap: (Just to post it up here that cleaning distributor caps and rotors works)
No misfiring, just wanna check everything with ignition is fine before I retard the distributor. I had cleaned the white powder up bit prior to taking this pic and rotor. But the day after you posted I reopened and sand paper the contacts and rotor. After that 2 days the idling on no air con is somehow messed up, before that there's no such problem.

However after the 2 days idling is suddenly back to normal and now running very smooth even on idle. It's to the extent of the having the same "shakiness" at the lower RPM. Anyways I tuned down my no aircon idling back to the same "shakiness".

If cleaning and sanding does something as far to this extent, probably changing the whole cap and rotor helps much more for aging distributors...

Lubrication oil is leaking past the valve stem seals and mixing with the air-fuel charge and splashing on the plugs. How old are your valve stem seals?

Not sure why your ignition got messy for 2 days and then recovered...

Yes, I agree that new distributor should be better than aged ones because that gap between the rotor and the 4 terminals (with the white powder) is smaller, the casing is free from cracks etc. But if your system voltages at present can cope with the worn out gaps an other imperfections and fire properly, there might not be a difference.

I was also looking at the specifications and the circuit diagrams of our Iswara vs the original Saga, there is no ballast resistor in the 12 valve engine ignition system, that means it is applying full 12v for starting and running, but I am not sure what this means as I am unable to get more info on this.

just go with the cheapest pioneer/alpine that supports usb/aux will do

may consider scouting lyn automotive garage for used units if on limited budget

I'm not sure....since i just owned it early this year. which means it is the valve seals? How much approx cost to change them?

Hi sifus, I face the same problem as the guy before and I had try, but I found that two new possible cause
1) my car after changing the engine oil from 10w-40 to 15w-40 ( both are Fuchs engine oil ), the temperature rise to 4 bar everytime I drive, no matter it's I drive slow or fast ,or aircon on or off , or booming or silent my music. I google about the engine oil, found that most of the website state that 15w-40 and above engine oil have poor control in temperature but 10w40 and below are opposite, of cause viscosity is different. Ps, I will try change back to 10w-40 after finish 5000km and see the result. And I guess the engine oil does not cause much problem to my car, that's why I decide after 5000 km than change.

2) last time, when my car travel on normally daily route ( ps, still using 10w-40 engine oil. Pls do not make confuse ) I found that, after install a 500w pioneer power amp and a 500w MBQ Underseat active subwoofer, and turn louder up to 1/3 of full volume on front audio control unit, the temperature direct go up to 4 bar and awhile the warning light come up, whenever I driving or stop. I have try everything possible ,I also found that the fan all are work very normally. I have ask many machines, they said that is thermostat fail. I have change both in radiator and the one near the bottom of carburetor ( both buy original from proton service center ). After, It still rise to 4 bar. Warning light come off.One day I was very angry above the temperature problem until I didn't fire up my music. I found that the temperature never rise to 4 bar. I found the cause, than I took off my amp, all speaker power direct from audio front unit ( ps, Underseat woofer didn't took off, I love songs with prefect match in bass and treble ) until now, never overheat again. From this I guess is electrical problem, does it possible is electric source problem ? Cannot generate much electric for extra use ? Or ?

Ps, if possible let's find out the where the problem is. Haha peace !

At last, this is my finding from my proton iswara LMST 1.3l year 2007, it had travel 120000km

1) your understanding of engine oil is a bit misguided.
consider reading the information compiled on the first page of this thread: https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3310512

2) if you're certain it is indeed electrical problem, solve it accordingly.
otherwise do consider troubleshooting it step by step as per albert's 2014 post.

Valve seals themselves are not expensive, see discussion here:

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry68036566

It is the labour cost which will bring the total costs up. (according to my bill the item is listed as RM160. Not sure of standalone price because I did the seals together with timing belt, water pump etc as a package). Meantime might as well change rocker cover gasket, camshaft seals if they are also leaking.

I tried routine service at proton service center

Change oil-oil filter + routine check

Cost 206 +6%

For me it is cheap because their use syntium petrona 800 10w 40


If go to outside mechanic
Syntium i bought at petronas mesra around 180-200
Oil filter 10-20
Routine check charge 10-30



Just my opinion..not promotimg proton service center .haha

This post has been edited by al_madd: May 4 2015, 01:29 PM

Hye everybody, I jus bust my air cond compressor.. Anybody have idea how much the price now? Is recond better than ori?

Before investing heavily on top overhaul, might as well give it a shot.



I was having white smoke and sweaty combustion chamber for some time. Was planning to send in for overhaul, but pending year end bonus that doesn't come. My bio bro throw me a box of this and a bottle of industrial alcohol/spirit mixture. After plonk in the plugs, pour in the mixture to the petrol tank and fill up petrol. After drove for a week, things started to change. FC improved, white smoke reduced. By the time bonus came, I can't see smoke anymore from my tail. After a year+ later, took out the plug do inspection to found out it's much less wet then before The overhaul dragged another few more years until piston ring worn off!

Total investment for plugs was RM48, alcohol/spirit RM2, that was back in 2004. Now, the plug is RM60+GST, alcohol/spirit is RM3+GST

no a not cheap.
for that pricing, you can get reputable/boutique brand full synthetic (800 is semi ya)

but yea, supposedly official SC would be more thorough on their job, and got anything, can complaint through official channels and they would be slightly easier to dealt with.
again, supposedly, and luck depending on which SC.

brand new compressor is ~700-800+ for original denso.

recond better than ori? you can continue to dream lol.
recond = used parts (be or ori or not) refurbished (hence re-conditioned) to "like-new" and it highly depends on the part original condition and the skill of whoever that recond it.

tldr: matter of luck.
you lucky, it will last. not lucky, you're back to the workshop asking for replacement/refund etc and drama

I compiled below some info on the cable resistance, from a book, from Mitsubishi's
workshop manual (attached below), and NGK's website (as you mentioned). I also calculated the resistance kilo-ohm/foot from your data and using estimated length only (need to measure that to be more precise). From this estimate, it looks like your cables are still ok.

The Mitsubishi manual contain further info that are of interest:

1) Our distributor is CEI (Constant Energy Ignition) type. There are also HEI (High Energy Ignition) types. From the info I got it is not clear what is CEI characteristics, also whether HEI = CEI, or they are of different levels of sparking energy.

2) Spark plug gap is mainly 3 categories 0.75, 0.95, 1.05 mm. Our Iswara is specified as
0.75mm according to Quazacolt's twitpic of the engine bay sticker, but in the past I have
used 1.1mm (NGK BP5ES-11) with no problems except during misty mornings when
moisture causing misfire during warm-up. Larger plug gap should increase chances of
consistent combustion in highly varying turbulent mixtures, but require higher energy ignition system.


Attached thumbnail(s)


Attached File(s)
 PWEE9025_ABCDE_ENGINE_ELECTRICAL_IGNITION_SYSTEM_16C.pdf ( 1.76mb ) Number of downloads: 63

UPDATE

I measured the lengths of my spark plug cables, ignoring the metal end portions, and recalculated and updated the table in the guidelines, attached.

Your cable resistances are very close to Mitsubishi standards.

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 5 2015, 11:29 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

UPDATE

I did some water test again, and also meddle with the weather strip.

1) The strip can be made to slide within its groove. It should be removable this way but I did not try.

2) Changing the position by sliding forwards or backwards can alter the sealing characteristics; at certain positions water does leak through to the door seal. Not sure why, maybe the seating curves changed and affected the characteristics.

Thanks... Im drop dead....