Oh this 1... bery easy. Sell kar bai VIOS

On a serious note, depend on how long no start. 1st thing to cek is always minyak hitam. If not enough or become sticky, get it changed before jump start. Brake fluid whether sufficient. Radiator coolant. If the car being dump there for more than 1/2 year, it's highly recommended to drain petrol tank and replace it with fresh 1s. Who knows vapor may condense inside the fuel tank and give you enough water to hydro-lock your engine? After jump start, go drive selow and try to make sure all the brakes are functioning ploperly before drive to magician.

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 13 2015, 09:30 PM

ehhh...i already have another green monster ...

but jsut want to keep it going ...

Hmm.. need to find a good workshop for the custom job then. Don't want to gain beraking power but screw up something else instead.

It been some time never visit this thread already but seem still going strong...

Anyone have any recommendation on cheap accessories shop near Klang, looking for cheap boss kit and installation too.

I have a theory
Please tell me if its correct
If i adjust the idle screw until my car shake does that mean smaller petrol and as a result more petrol saving?

Hi all, what are your experience on HI-REV semi synthetic 6340 15W-40 engine oil? Is this a suitable alternative to Shell Helix brand? Anyone using one atm? How does it compare?

less idling rpm = less fuel consumption.
however if you want to push it beyond original specs and have excessive vibration, mounting kong = need replace = all savings go down to drain.

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch
go with an API certified engine oil, and majority of shell products are certified:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dshell

Thanks Quaza, guess i'll stick with Shell Helix 15w40 instead

Theoretically yes, the question is how much savings would you get.

I did some calculations based on typical conditions and making certain
assumptions on engine parameters, for idle speed shaking at 500 rpm,
just to get an idea roughly how much the savings will be, and the results
are shown below.

The savings are in the order of 3 to 4 % for a 10km journey with 10 mins
idle time, and you may not see this difference above the normal fluctuations
of fuel economy. The longer the journey the less is this saving for the same
idle time. Is it worth it considering the effects from the vibrations
(discomfort, engine wear & tear or damage)?




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any recommended service centers (easy on the pocket) in Jln Ipoh/kepong area?

That is one damn thorough calculation

Hahaha
thanks your explanation
just trying everything I can to save petrol
my lmst duno made of what mia
one tankful shell RM80 cant last me more thn 300km until it start to blink
sommore it is manual transmission

I'm getting a new cable probably next month or something on another iswara. The China cables are so bad that when I wanted to remove, I chipped off some of the plug insulation. And the resistance is considerably higher but I can't recall. Would update accordingly on a new Bougicord cable and see whether is it "better" than Mitsu standards lol.

Anyways a new ques here:
Wonder if i had taken out the radiator hose, should I need to apply a gasket before fitting the radiator hose to the radiator? As in pic below, I can't brain out whether there is a gasket between hose and the radiator connection. Unless the gasket layer is also black maybe?

A google search tells me likely not needed or it didn't even exists, youtube videos also does not emphasize that.

But i'm bit concerned cause I recall (maybe many years ago) seeing or hearing people/web saying that gaskets are needed before fitting the hose in. Because just by screwing it tight, I think probably some air still can escape from the hose and probably makes the whole systems loses pressure.

If there is such gaskets wonder what gasket should it be? Copper gaskets?

mine had sealant applied, not actual gaskets.

So far in my experience of changing hoses, I have not encountered any sort of gasket. I just tighten the hose clip, and on running the engine to normal temperature, if there is a leak it will show up as stains from the colour of the coolant. Probably you can apply some sealant as Quazacolt mentioned. If air leaks in on cooling down, the overflow tank will show and increase in level of coolant.

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 18 2015, 10:41 PM


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Hmm I guess I need to get this as few webs does suggest "Blue RTV sealant":
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product...et-maker-detail

Anyways the connections seems leaking (same before removing), will retighten as per other website/forums and see whether overflow tank has increase in tank level. Then will consider to get the sealant if things gone wrong.

So far in my case of the hose connection leaks, additional tightening
totally solved the problem. You might try this additional tightening,
sealant, and if leak is still there, try to rotate the clamp position as
to see if any improvement. (Old clamp seating position create grooves
in the rubber which makes less clamping effectiveness - just my theory).

Last resort - change to new hose.

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 19 2015, 09:57 AM


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Hi All, my Saga LMST is about to touch 140,000km, and I have a lot of wear and tear parts needing replacements. Can provide some recommendations & parts suppliers/price range, if you know any? Thanks in advance.

1) Super Pro Full Bushing Set
2) Original Proton Engine Mountings / Performance Mountings
3) Front and Rear Absorbers + Springs
4) Performance Brake Pads
5) Performance/Double Layer Radiator
6) New Car Battery
7) New Spark Plugs

from what i can help/know:
2) proton ori for the torque mountings (front/back) are in the ~200 range or less. get it stuffed with high temp silicone or something for any gaps.
3) using H&R progressive sport springs , no regrets; used IMP propex absorbers... now as my sis took over the car for the most part, front using KYB excel g gas shocks, while rear IMP comfort.
4) EBC greenstuff, consider importing your own from amazon US or brakes4u UK
7) my bosch platinum/iridium fusion 4 points still running strong