Introduction of Proton Saga / Iswara

The Proton Saga is the first car produced by Malaysian auto manufacturer Proton, based on the 1983 Mitsubishi Lancer Fiore. It first debuted in September 1985. The first Proton Saga that rolled off the production line was presented to the Malaysian National Museum as a symbol of the beginning of the Malaysian automotive industry.

Since then, the Proton Saga and its variants contributed to most of Proton's sales and revenues. The Saga variants are also popular among Malaysian taxi drivers and operators who need cheap vehicles with good fuel economy. The Saga is currently the longest surviving brand in a line of cars offered by Proton.

for more information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proton_Saga

Previous thread versions:


LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum Rules n Regulations
Following rules are being implemented to prevent any unhappiness arise during discussion.

Rule 1:
This is not a trading thread. Any trading activities must be done in discreet. Use PM la!

Rule 2:
This is not a place for u to show off. Respect all saga/iswara driver if u doesn't own a saga/iswara but u wish to join our thread please respect all others member. Do not make statement like "This car doesn't deserve any modification". If u don't like us don't join our discussion. We also not welcome u to make any statement to show off here.

Rule 3:
All other LYN rules applied in this Forum too.

These rules and regulations has to be followed by existing and new members. Any unsatisfactory and comment please PM me and allow me to discuss with all senior members before the rule is being change or new rule being implement.

Saga / Iswara Owners List v2:


(will no longer be updated)Saga / Iswara Owners List:


Do PM me if ur name is not listed! (click here)


Useful Info/FAQ
Part Price lists
Iswara 1.3 S (M) 92-03
Iswara 1.3 LMSS 03-05
Iswara 1.3 LMST 06-08
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (M)
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (A)
Mirrors
Iswara 1.3 S (M) 92-03.pdf
Iswara 1.3 LMSS 03-05.pdf
Iswara 1.3 Special Edition LMST 06-08
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (M).pdf
Iswara 5 Dr Hatch 1.5 (A).pdf

4G1x Engine manuals
http://www.mivec.co.nz/tech/4G1x_Engine_Manual.pdf
http://mitsu.ro/docs/Colt-91-95/workshop_manual.pdf

Valve clearance adjustment
<SOHC 12 valve>
(refer the engine manual link above, 1st one)
Standard value on cold engine:
intake 0.09mm
exhaust 0.17mm
Standard value on hot engine(this should be the value shown on your car/chassis sticker):
intake 0.20mm
exhaust 0.25mm
Ok confirmed, adjust on hot, not cold http://twitpic.com/dj0n77

4g13/4g15 Engine Oil capacity?
3.3-3.6 liters (fill it between the low and high lines/level of the dip stick, do NOT overfill)
Manual officially states 3.5 liters

Manual gear box capacity?
~1.8 liter, fill to full basically
same as per manual statement
Hypoid gear oil, use Petronas GL4SAE80 or equivalent; API classification GL-4 or higher, SAE viscosity no. 75w90


ATF capacity?
~2.5-3 liter on regular OCI/drains (after filling, check based on cold level, and monitor at hot level not exceeding the last line/level)
~4.5-5.5 liter for full drain (removing oil sump/atf filter, draining from torque converter)
Manual officially states 5.8 liters
Use only Dextron III, Mitsubishi or Proton SPIII specifications

~8 liter for flushing

Coolant capacity?
~4-5 liters depending on flushing/reservoir drain
Manual officially states 5 liters including the 0.65 liters in the reservoir tank

*Service intervals*

1. Engine oil - Every 5,000km - 12,000km or 3 - 6 months whichever first depending on which EO used
2. Oil filter - every 5k km - 6k km or 3-6 months whichever first MUST replace regardless of which EO used
3. Spark Plugs - Every 20,000km (copper), some spark plugs last up to 100,000km but if your engine is a bit screwed up then invest in a normal spark plug and change more often will do. spark plugs time period not really needed, best if you just periodically take it out and inspect accordingly.
4. Transmission Oil - 40,000km or 2 years whichever first (manual) | 20,000km or 1 year whichever first (auto)
   this can be a bit flexible, general rule of thumb is that if you're using damn good full synthetic transmission oil, you may opt for longer OCI, and if you feel that shifting is no longer smooth/crisp, have weird judder/kicks from auto transmission, then consider replacing the oil sooner/immediately.
5. Timing belt Kits - Every 80,000km / 3 years
6. Water Pump - advisable to change it together during every timing kit change
7. Radiator Flushing - if you're using good long life coolant and distilled water at 50:50 ratio, you can do it every 40k km or 2 years or so, and the next one will be during your timing belt/water pump replacement
8. brake fluid flushing: whenever the brake fluid turns to kopi ais (don't wait until it's pitch black kopi o please lol, sludge will form)
   brake bleeding: whenever you feed that your brake is uneven (Eg: pulling 1 side upon brake) or if it is spongy, or your stopping power seems compromised
   also do check on brake pad uneven wear too
   brakes fluids in general you may practice 20k km or 1 year, although do note that brake fluid are hygroscopic, so even if your car is low mileage, the fluids lifespan is still ticking. for decent quality brake fluid and if you're not a spirited driver with hard braking, 1 year is a decent guideline. however if you brake hard, using DOT5.1 or racing/super DOT4 brake fluids with much higher temperature threshold, you may need to replace the brake fluid sooner.
9. Brake Pads (Front) - Check during every service so you get to know when you should standby
10. brake shoe (rear) similar to front pads (and they usually last at least 2x longer compared to front pads), however do service it once a while (maybe every 20k km or so ) as the brake shoe dust will accumulate and overtime it may cause jam in the brake pump which would cost a bit to replace.
    yes i know it's cheap, but opening up the drum and blowing/sweeping/cleaning off the excess dust will prolong the brake pump's life a LOT

non critical components

1. for air cond (full service includes replacing drier, cleaning the internals and then vacuuming pressure and re-gas etc), power steering oil/fluid, 40k km or 2 years whichever first.
2. power steering oil 40k km or 2 years whichever first, or when you feel that the steering is no longer turning smoothly especially during standstill, or if the power steering pump is having squeaking/whining noises.
3. alternator service (the bushes/carbon thingies) are typically done once every few years, only if the charge is low and causing the battery not able to charge properly. (under 14.4 volts in general, or heavy fluctuations on voltage)
4. Throttle body/Carburetor cleaning/de-carbon between every 20k km to 40k km, or 1 year to 2 year whichever comes first, according to your budget or when you feel that your throttle response/acceleration is not smooth.

Carburetor mechanical fuel pump
Should check it out if suspect fuel delivery issues
Pricing is around rm160 for original proton (to be confirmed)

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=64185235


references:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1549104/all
http://www.acksfaq.com/mechanical_fuel_pump.htm

Tail lamp assembly:
from:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68372366
to:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68550245
Basically loosen 3 nuts and lot of strength to pry the light which is stucked fast to the body.


pm/post on the thread for more useful infos/FAQs to add


Tyre & Rim Info
1) PCD
-> stands for pitch circle diameter, numbers of bolts on the wheel
-> got a few PCD types: 100 (eg: wira, honda), 114.3 (eg: saga iswara, satria neo), 110 (kancil), etc.


2) Offset
-> distance from the center of the rim to the attaching disk part
-> normally can be adjusted using spacer


3) Spacer
-> a round piece of metal that has holes on it, the function is to avoid/adjust the wheel from rubbing the arch/fender
-> got few sizes/thickness
-> if u r using 8 holes rim sure need to add spacer on the front

4) 14" or 15"
-> i prefer 15" bcoz 14" less choices for performance tires

5) Best PCD and offset
-> 114.3 and 38-40 (need check with sifoo..)


Credit goes to: Killer


Warranty FAQs
could be very outdated/irrelevant, do pm me if any of you members have new saga/iswara or new information regarding proton warranty, thanks.


5. Is it important to use genuine parts?

Yes, it is important that you use PROTON genuine parts and accessories.

This will ensure that the original vehicle specifications are maintained and that the replacement parts meet the same high standards as the vehicle original equipments. This will also ensure the vehicle compliance to the government regulations relating to vehicle safety and environmental controls. The use of parts that do not conform to the correct specification may cause damage to the vehicle and could also invalidate the terms of the warranty.

credit goes to Kevin

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 29 2015, 05:50 PM

USUAL PERFORMANCE UPGRADE FOR SAGA/ISWARA

Intake
1. High Flow Open Pod (from rm50 onwards) or Drop In Air Filters K&N over rm250-300ish, there are other cheaper reusable drop ins, however performance gains subjective
2. Due to the bad placing of the stock air intake resulting in hot air being sucked, it is recommended to add a Cold Air Intake. Various types of hose available for this DIY upgrade. Position the intake in front of the radiator, and you will definitely gain valuable power and better the fuel consumption!

Exhaust
4-2-1 Tuned Length Extractor (from rm400 onwards) for high exhaust flow with minimal restriction & power increase. Use cap ayam brand and you will end up with power loss instead.

Ignition
1. Performance spark plug cable (from rm50 onwards). Recommended brands are the like of RAM and Pro Rallye. They say thick cables produce bigger spark which results in better combustion=more power=better fuel consumption. Some reported radio interference. However most enthusiast remain skeptic and stuck with the stock plug cable. So you decide.
2. Side gapped spark plug. This is a cheap performance upgrade. Your standard spark plug's electrode is shaved away to provide a bigger 'open' spark. It is also recommended to 'index' the spark plug so that when it's plugged in, the spark area will directly face the combustion chamber. Downside is, the plug will not last as long. Again, most enthusiast remain skeptic. http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/...idegapping.html

Engine
1. Port & Polish Engine Head (from rm400~rm1500). Smoothen the rough internals for better air/exhaust flow & power increase.
2. High Performance Camshafts (from rm600~rm1500). Modified camshafts profile can ensure more air-fuel mixture to reach the cylinder at the correct timing resulting in horsepower & torque increase.
3. Lightened Crank Pulley (from rm200~rm650). Release loss horsepower due to heavy stock crank pulley. Better acceleration and fuel consumption. Revs drop faster though. Enthusiasts are still arguing about rubber dampened (Mythelogy ones, expensive and rare these days) or non-dampened crank pulley. Again, you decide.

Handling
1. Suspension (from rm500~RM2000). Depending on your budget and liking, you can opt for sports short stroke absorber coupled with sports spring or go for semi-adjustable absorbers. Be aware that this upgrade will cause uncomfortable ride. Brands like APM Performax cost about rm500 while adjustables from GAB or Improve will set you back about rm1500.
Note from TS (Quazacolt):
German made H&R progressive lowered springs are one of the best springs to go for if you don't want to go for adjustable, yet want sport/snappier handling without sacrificing too much on comfort.
Do check with speedzone motorsport (at batu caves) as they are the distributor for H&R https://www.facebook.com/speedzonemotorsport
2. Chassis Stiffening Bars (from rm150 onwards). Front stabiliser bar, fender bars, lower arm bar, rear strut bar, etc will help the car reduce its flex during heavy corners and help the suspension keep the tires planted to the tarmac. The more bar installed, the more solid the ride. Not to mention they will add to the weight as well.
Note from TS (Quazacolt): the best bars to go for our saga/iswara would be rear anti roll bar, then followed by front strut bar and fender bars. these 3 are the bare minimum for a substantial ride handling upgrade. Do bear in mind that that aforementioned FSB and Rear-ARB requires welding, so best to go to a reputable installer (eg: ultra racing HQ directly) to purchase and install your chassis stiffening bars.

Brakes
1. Double Layer Brake Servo (from rm100 onwards) - This half cut item is popular among enthusiasts. A great help to improve stopping power. However idling will be a bit rough. Sourced from VR4, Pajero or Honda SM4.
2. High-Temp Brake Pads (from rm120 onwards) - Higher temperature handling will avoid the risk of fading brakes during aggressive or mountain driving. At the moment, Rapid Stop pads is the way to go.
Note from TS (Quazacolt): RS pads are very dusty, so if you're like me who absolutely HATES brake dusts, and yet want good stopping performance, do consider EBC greenstuff. price can range from rm250-330 depending if you're self importing or getting from official distributor pentagon. It IS VERY expensive, however the performance, and low dust is very much proven.

Featured Cars

Monster ride in this thread; the_catacombs 's ride (aka SkYwAlKeR)


Uranus Foo


rozz_1291


yewwing


Member's Ride(hidden monster non monster)

Kevin's LMST

Few member's ride compiled together


shiinkuro31's ride

eXpert

Gilbert5107

Shawnzz

Zhixin


rozz_1291's ex ride

godspeeds

sjz

ronaldet


sinister_sid

Shafique

juniorkirk

Chan320

GMS FearLess

Notoriez

dakwan

stasis21

n3w

fleekreturn

Peekab0o

Quazacolt (current TS)
http://twitpic.com/cwd0ax

Members Engine Bay:

the_catacombs:


Twin DCOE:


wkho555's DGAV:


Siapa punya???


andychan:


Uranus Foo's 4G93T monster powered by microtech!


rozz_1291's ex engine bay:


rozz_1291's 4G61 Factory stock


TS Quazacolt's 4G15 3 speed auto Factory stock
with KNN carburetor drop in air filter and ultra racing front strut bar
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/CyKB5ydmFS8

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 9 2014, 09:45 PM

MOTORSPORTS

Videos
Quazacolt



rozz_1291


Pictures
Here is a small teaser of rozz_1291 car performing in a small time attack challenge at our local track in USJ.


Here is another old SIE forumer @Notoriez Saga LMST 4throttle Weber:


@sinister_sid with his stock 1989 Perawan Saga 1.5


@Gilbert5107 4G15 EFI


@yewwing a.k.a iron leg with his Iswara 4G13 Weber


@the_catacombs


@Shawnzz (Red Iswara Aeroback) and @dopeisgood (Silver Sedan)


Hope to see more SagaIswara members her join Open Trackdays, TimeAttacks and other events in the near future. Keep up the spirit and be proud of what you drive


PHEW finally done editing everything and restoring all the old members pictures (nostalgia man)
huge thanks to rozz_1291 and Peekab0o for your previous work

Hopefully all the existing owners can continue being active and even if your saga/iswara is retired you're still more than welcome to share your experiences/advises

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Nov 9 2014, 09:40 PM

front seat, reporting in

that;s cool

i still need these info for my reference... hahaha...

Yes still using. Thanks.

thank you instead for all the contributions

Did you miss out the side indicators (turn signals on the
wheel fender panels) ? High beam indicator quantity is 1.

The rest, in my opinion covers all the bulbs in the Iswara.
(I presume no LED substitute yet for headlamp bulbs).

The instrument cluster low-fuel indicator bulb seems different
from other warning lamps, see photo from internet. Maybe need to
confirm this.

I am not familiar with the LED substitutes, so unable to comment on the
the correctness of the specifications.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Oh yeap, the side indicators are also T10 (I had already installed them and that's why they're off the list )

Overheating problems have many causes, as shown by the attached pages.
You need to narrow down the cause:

1) Does the 4th bar appear at all speeds, low speeds, idling etc?
How about on the highway?

2) Next morning, before starting engine, open the radiator cap. Is
the coolant filled up to the cap, or is it below the neck?
Are there rust particles floating in the coolant? Is there any
oil mixed with water, fuel/exhaust smell?

3) Close the cap, run the engine, and observe the radiator fan action against
the temperature indicator. At what bar it starts, and is the fan speed
strong or weak? The fan must run on and off cycles within the 3rd bar.
Look around the hose connections for leaks. Is coolant leaking under
the engine (possibly from the core plugs?)

4) Look at the water pump pulley - any slippage (screeching noise)?

5) Did you use tap water for the coolant ? Did you add the additive/chemcials
for corrosion protection?

6) Pull out the engine oil dipstick, is there any creamy brown contamination
of the engine oil?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 1 2014, 01:38 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Congrats for V28

Vroom vroom V28. Car is still on mod for security.

No 9 - Low Fuel Warning light is T10 bulb, not T5. Must include twist lock base also. Confirmed because I've done some DIY . Mostly this list is correct.



The bulb with twist socket



Dome lamp & trunk light also has a different size. I don't know the size correctly. Later I update.

[update for dome lamp and trunk light]



Left : Trunk light. I've found the LED equivalent for this bulb at Brothers Seksyen 20 Shah Alam. Price about RM13.
Right : Dome light. Still haven't found the LED equivalent size for it.

This post has been edited by jondankawan: Dec 5 2014, 07:06 PM

Does anyone owned 4g61t standard engine? Non modi? I want to know the fuel consumption or normal driving at town and highway..i think want to buy one if the fuel is economy

unless you can discipline your right foot a lot, chances are you're not going to get improvement in fc.

additionally, turbos in the past was aimed solely at increasing horsepower over fuel economy. might want to bear that in mind.