Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Forum Announcement

New user registrations disabled until further notice.

195 Pages  1 2 3 > » Bottom
Bump TopicReply to this topicRSS feed Start new topic Start Poll

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

> Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

Quazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:10 PM, updated 6d ago

Riding couple
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,885

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


Sort of a V2. Considering the departure of Technical talk sub-forum, F&F forum is lacking in technical threads/postings that are derived on logic/facts, with reference materials/links/documents and what not. Really missed those days and hence I hope that with the new thread we can head to a similar direction and have everyone benefit from it.

Useful information/Links:






Quick guide thanks to upontheriversky to get most people started:
QUOTE
1) viscosity at 40 and 100 - the lower the number, the thinner the oil, the better the lubrication. from here, we may sometimes see 0w30 can be much thinner than 10w30.

2) Viscosity index - oil ability to behave at rated viscosity at wide range of temperatures. Higher number means higher viscosity stability. important for high heat engine - turbos and high rev NA. lower number means, the viscosity will change a lot from what stated at the back of bottle at different oil temperature than 40 and 100 celcius so it is not good.

3) NOACK volatility - oil weight loss due to evaporation, the number is in percentage. the lower the better. important for turbos coz even branded oil may have high NOACK number which contributes to oil evaporation even in no-leak engines. As oil evaporates, the lighter weight will give up first, leaving the heavier oil so oil becomes thicker and less performance.

4) High temp/high shear viscosity - oil ability to sustain the mentioned condition, the higher the better. most important for turbos and racing engines.

5) Total Base Number - this is the most important feature for all average users like me to see whether the oil can actually be used for long time or not. this is the reserved alkalinity to resist fuel dilution of engine oil from combustion. Fuel dilution makes the oil acidic and therefore oxidized faster. The higher the better. Higher TBN also usually means the oil has lots of detergent which is good for engine cleanliness. Amsoil has the highest as far as i know. So there is no need for rigid classification of fully syn has to be changed at 10k, semi at 7k and so on, look at the TBN and do ur own comparison. Whatever close to 10 is good, higher is best and lower is so-so only. minimum would be 7-8 as dictated by SAE if im not mistaken

To sum up, 0w20 oil may be very thin but if the Viscosity Index and NOACK is really good, u wont experience as much oil loss or bad engine wear as compared to 10w30 having really bad NOACK and Viscosity Index. The specs are there, we just need to learn how to interpret so that we can all stop beating the bush when it comes to what oil is suitable for our application.

For enthusiast/speed chaser:
- pay attention to all specs mentioned above

For average daily drive and normal maintenance:
- pay particular attention to Total Base Number

If the brand of oil you are comparing does not provide any of the info above, it can simply means that the oil did not pass the test or the test result is not impressive that they hide it so people would still buy. We wont be able to say its bad until we see bad test numbers, so hide it and call it good stuff, people will still buy and call it good. Its all about sales in the end biggrin.gif

for example, try see castrol oil spec whether they have half of the specs i mentioned above and see amsoil, redline and torco specs on the web, these branded oil have nothing to hide biggrin.gif

The above is exactly why i stress on proper certification (eg: API) and proper lab analysis/testing/data sheets/technical specs. smile.gif

Wiki on Engine Oil
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

API specifications
http://www.api.org/certification-programs/...NGLISH_2013.pdf
http://www.oilspecifications.org/api_eolcs.php
API Engine Oil Classifications (from infineum)
https://www.infineum.com/media/80723/api-en...sifications.pdf

How much does it cost/royalty fee to get an engine oil certified?

Full documentation on API Licensing/certification/tests

ILSAC GF-5 specifications:
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/ILSAC_GF-...22-09_final.pdf
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/Final-GF5...ent-1-23-08.pdf
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/API%20SN%20Discussion.pdf

PQI America (good site with oil analysis from EO bought off shelves at random)
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
http://www.pqiamerica.com/resourceroom/apiserviceclass.html

Car bible
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

BITOG (bob is the oil guy website/forums)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
oil shearing:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm
viscosity:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/putting-the-...into-viscosity/
esters:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-sy...tic-lubricants/
Acceptable levels of wear/guides on oil analysis
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm

Blackstone Labs - one of the more popular labs used by many BITOG members for their oil analysis
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
explanation on BSL reports:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php

API Licencing directory query (very useful to determine whether an Engine oil is actually certified)
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsSearch

old v1 link:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525
nostalgia lane:
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2072678
props to upontheriversky upon taking the initiative to learn and debunk on old theories/traditional thoughts.
noticed how many of us were young/unknowing (including myself!)
and this is me staying true to my words brows.gif
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=47469990

some information i have compiled on gear lubrication (for the F5MBB only though):
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=66977922

some GTL discussion (shell/pennzoil pureplus):
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68597152

lol esters:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ester#List_of_ester_odorants


Motorcycle / Bike Section
main website of JASO:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/
Motorcycle 4T section of JASO:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/jaso_e-2.htm

JASO certification application manual, includes classification details and test methods etc:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV1105.pdf

List of JASO certified lubricants:
http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf
updated 1st February 2016, so most of the previously printed lubricant on the market may not match this list

external information for JASO:
http://www.oilspecifications.org/jaso.php
further details for JASO MA/MB classifications:
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/..._MA_JASO_MB.php


Motorcycle / Bike Front fork/Suspensions fluid (or oil) viscosity charts:
http://www.quazacolt.com/bike/suspensions/...m_Transmoto.pdf

http://www.quazacolt.com/bike/suspensions/...ension_oils.pdf


Motorcycle / Bike chain videos:
Myth of chain lube - wear and tear explained:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

WBW chain lube application reviews:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Chain lube research paper - comparing wax, PTFE, drip oil and un-lubed chain wear:
http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/4869/1/leepm7.pdf

bike chain videos and research paper links thanks to forum member alexei

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 29 2017, 04:12 AM
Quazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:10 PM

Riding couple
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,885

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


For the old review/feedback format, lets try something new:

QUOTE
Brand/model: Motul H-Tech 100 Plus
Official website/link: https://www.motul.com/my/en/products/oils-l...viscosity%5D=33
Technical data sheet: https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1339480271
MSDS if available: Motul requires email details
API license directory if available: https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...520100%2520plus

Viscosity: 5w30
Price: RM180/4 Liter

Vehicle used on: Proton Iswara 4g15 AT, Nissan Sentra N16 AT
Comments/Feedback: Satisfying, able to withstand extended OCI (oil change intervals) easily without any performance degradation even until the very end prior to draining. I've ran 14-16k km/6months to around a year of OCI without issues.

Engine internals are still sparkling clean on the over 300k km year 1999 iswara, while the 170k km year 2007 Sentra did not show any signs of sludge build up whatsoever. High RPM/red lines are still smooth and without any noticeable issue even towards the very end of the extended OCI.

Take note that both cars have their oil filters replaced halfway of their respective engine oil life cycle.
Copy paste template:
CODE

[B]Brand/model:[/B]
[B]Official website/link:[/B]
[B]Technical data sheet:[/B]
[B]MSDS if available:[/B]
[B]API license directory if available:[/B]

[B]Viscosity:[/B]
[B]Price:[/B]

[B]Vehicle used on:[/B]
[B]Comments/Feedback:[/B]


This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 5 2014, 03:26 PM
Quazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:15 PM

Riding couple
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,885

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


Other information

Viscosity converting table:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/viscosit...rter-d_413.html

Torco's API certification screencapture:
Attached Image
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dtorco
Torco replies to my query:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



the initial reply before the more formatted/detailed one:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Another add on from sifu/staff pertaining Torco's reply
QUOTE(sleepwalker @ Jul 31 2012, 03:42 PM)
Rather interesting reply from Torco and a lot will think, wow.. definitely good stuff. Then again, if you do a little research into why API has been reducing the amount of zinc in the engine oil, you will understand why Torco can't get the API donut.

Check this link to know why API standards have been reducing the zinc content.

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0803sr...il/viewall.html

Viscosity does not translate into protection. Film strength provides the protection from shearing but there is no film strength indicator. Viscosity just means the fluids resistances to flow which is another meaning for being thick or thin. A lower viscosity number does not always mean lower protection.
*
Liqui Moly's API certification screencapture:
Attached Image
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...anyName%3Dliqui
Liqui Moly replies to my query(in email dialog form):
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


AMSOIL FAQ on API licensing:
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible_amsoilFAQ.html

research paper on moly/MOS2
http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/report/e-report/00E115e.pdf


Some of Quazacolt's (current TS) reviews that covers extended oil change intervals:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=63666846
Iswara that's practicing extended OCI: http://twitpic.com/doro53
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=65204477
It's currently >70k km and running on Motul H-tech 100 plus xw30 smile.gif

Why should one do UOA? watch the sample/real life experience video
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

in this video, it shows early detection of coolant leak (head gasket) before the situation gets serious.
also note that it was mentioned that there was no visible symptoms in the oil (frothing and what not due to coolant mixing with engine oil)
The only way to know, and prevent a hefty engine repair bill, is a UOA smile.gif

additional info for uoa:
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/06/10...m-oil-analysis/

What are acceptable wear levels from UOA samples?
Generally, anything under 100ppm, for references:
http://www.boucherandjones.com/lubeservices.htm
http://www.ppmoiltesting.com/eval1.html

Quazacolt's UOA (used oil analysis) samples:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

https://plus.google.com/u/0/+JasonLimQuazac...sts/bhQZhvzXheC
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=72742217

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/hm8NizaeCB7
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867


Other Malaysian UOA sample:
alcyon
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



VOA Samples:
Courtesy of forumer mayalab
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



report explanation http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php


Synthetic or mineral/conventional oil?
https://gallery.mailchimp.com/f641390cba421...uly_2016.01.pdf
you'd be surprised at the results! brows.gif


Engine Oil Additives
Here's BSL (Amanda) take on EO additives:
QUOTE
Some additives do not show up in our tests. For example, we don't test for tungsten as part of our normal test, so we might not see that additive in our sample.

We don't normally see any real benefit to running additives, but we don't really see any problems from it either, at least not in our tests.

I'm not sure what the additive companies use as their base stock because we're not able to test the base stock in our lab.

Our general theory on additives is that the oil already has additives present, so there's not really any benefit to adding more stuff when the oil is already formulated very carefully. But then again, we haven't seen any evidence that they hurt anything, so if you like them, then by all means, keep using them! Maybe once you see your oil analysis results, you'll start to experiment by using additives sometimes and not other times, just to see how the engine does with and without them.
Original question from me:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


something to read on in regards to WS2 additives:
pdf click
It's a research/testing done by Millitary.



to those interested to know about long OCI:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...opics/1064407/1

some comments from an engine engineer on a mazda forum:
QUOTE
Boy; a lot of opinions and mis-information here. I am an engine engineer from Detroit with about 30 years of experience, so let me list a few truths:

1. An oil filter will never actually fill-up with contaminants, dirt, etc. unless someone sabotages your engine. There is a lot of capacity in a typical filter cartridge and engines don't really generate that much filterable soot and dirt. Most of the soot is too small to be filtered by anything but a special bypass filter. The real reason we change filters, is that the paper and glue that holds the insides together will not last forever; years, but not forever, and also to get that old oil out of the filter. Use a good quality filter that has a very high efficiency rating in the ASTM spec test. I like the Pure-1 or Bosch filters.
2. Really hard street driving is still a walk-in-the-park compared to the manufacturers standard General Durability tests, where the engine is cycled continuously between peak power and peak torque for hundreds of hours. One exception would be road-racing if you don't have a good oil-cooler and you let the oil temp get above 250F. The real severe-duty as far as oil is concerned is lots of idling and short trips. When you idle, your combustion quality is poorest, so you have extra fuel-dilution. Also in extended idling, your oil temperature rarely get above 150F which is what is needed to drive off fuel and water vapor from the oil.
Whenever an engine is running, blowby gasses get past the rings and enter the crankcase where it mixes with the oil. These blowby gasses are exhaust gas, which means it contains a lot of water vapor which when it hits the cold crankcase, condenses into liquid water. The faster you can warm-up your engine (by driving not idling), the sooner you can start to boil-off the water (and fuel) in your crankcase.
3. The main reason why oil turns dark is that the hottest spots in the engine (top of cylinder liners, pistons, exhaust side of head, etc.) slowly "cook" the oil through oxidation. Think of putting cooking oil in a fry pan and overheating it, it will darken. There are other chemical processes that degrade the oil as it mixes with Nitric Oxides in the crankcase. In GDI engines there is also a bit of soot from combustion that gets picked-up by the oil and suspended in solution by the detergents. The soot particles are typically in the sub-micron size, so they just pass-through the filter and are also small enough to not hurt the bearings and other wear surfaces in the engine. Synthetic oil has a lot higher temperature resistance than conventional mineral oils and so it cooks more slowly.
4. The net effect of oil dilution by water and fuel, effects of time at high temperature, and other chemical reactions in the crankcase, mean that eventually the oil will get out-of spec regarding its viscosity and its ability to keep the inside of the engine clean; as the detergent, anti-corrosion, anti-sludge, and anti-foam additive packages wear-out. The quality or age of the oil filter can't change this. If you just follow the manufacturers recommended change interval (or the maintenance computer) you should be on the safe and conservative side.

Dave
source:
http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-20...tml#post1413082



Brake Fluid
Comparison of Motul's DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 products:

5.1
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1335380510
Viscosity at -40°C (-40°F) 820 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) 2.1 mm²/s

RBF600 (dot 4)
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1340122148
Viscosity at -40°C (-40°F) 1750 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) 2.5 mm²/s

RBF660 (dot 4)
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1340124817
Viscosity at -40 °C (-40 °F) 1698 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100 °C (212 °F) 2.59 mm²/s

just to make sure everyone is on the same page, similarly with engine oil, it is easier to push thinner liquid, than thicker liquid.
for references pertaining viscosity:
http://www.dixcel.co.jp/en/subcontent/lite...terature02.html

http://www.viscopedia.com/viscosity-tables...ve-brake-fluid/




Specific Car information
Myvi
EO recommended: API SJ and above 5w30
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hi4gni9fsrg90te/M...20List.pdf?dl=0

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Apr 18 2017, 12:59 AM
goldfries
post Aug 5 2014, 12:26 PM

40K Club
Group Icon
Group: Forum Admin
Posts: 43,911

Joined: Jan 2003
From: www.goldfries.com




OK pinned.
Quazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM

Riding couple
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,885

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(goldfries @ Aug 5 2014, 12:26 PM)
OK pinned.
*
Thank you very much thumbup.gif
goldfries
post Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM

40K Club
Group Icon
Group: Forum Admin
Posts: 43,911

Joined: Jan 2003
From: www.goldfries.com




https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 <=-- do include the link to V1 in your 1st post. biggrin.gif
Quazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 12:28 PM

Riding couple
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,885

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(goldfries @ Aug 5 2014, 12:27 PM)
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 <=-- do include the link to V1 in your 1st post. biggrin.gif
*
oops missed out; done!

=edit=
everyone else please let me know if i am missing out anything else, or if you'd like to suggest something be pinned on the first page smile.gif

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 5 2014, 03:27 PM
Max
post Aug 5 2014, 04:39 PM

Regular
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,113

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Putrajaya-KL


must parking here.. biggrin.gif
kennywee92
post Aug 5 2014, 07:45 PM

New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 21

Joined: Aug 2011


Great work there TS! thumbup.gif
Quazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 08:00 PM

Riding couple
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,885

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(kennywee92 @ Aug 5 2014, 07:45 PM)
Great work there TS! thumbup.gif
*
thanks for the kind words bro, glad that people can benefit from it nod.gif
empire23
post Aug 5 2014, 08:14 PM

Team Island Hopper
Group Icon
Group: Moderator
Posts: 9,340

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory




I like the fact that this new threat is more geared towards fluids and lubricants in general. There are a lot of fluids that make a car tick and EO is just one of them and thus having a decent pinned thread to discuss them is definitely a good thing.
Quazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 08:59 PM

Riding couple
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,885

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 5 2014, 08:14 PM)
I like the fact that this new threat is more geared towards fluids and lubricants in general. There are a lot of fluids that make a car tick and EO is just one of them and thus having a decent pinned thread to discuss them is definitely a good thing.
*
glad you agree to it too thumbup.gif

a bit far fetched, but if Malaysians can be more educated on this matter, maybe we can get a demand on UOA, and local labs could lower their pricing!

i find it saddening when the cost to perform UOA here is more expensive than me sending over to USA even with FOREX + heavy postage rates (the postage fee is more expensive than converted uoa fee rofl) combined together.
izso
post Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM

New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 48

Joined: Jun 2005
Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
Quazacolt
post Aug 5 2014, 10:34 PM

Riding couple
*******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 2,885

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(izso @ Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM)
Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
*
help you link tongue.gif

[Fatalit[Y]] kalvinkhoo
hmm not even sure if it works with his brackets lol

anyways for your future reference:
CODE
[@[F]atalit[Y]] [@kalvinkhoo]


now on pennzoil:




they say same wo tongue.gif

ANNNNDDDDD it's available at tesco at a bargain:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868
pennzoil/shell partnership btw wink.gif

i'd get it in a heartbeat if it's 0w20 lol
efaceninja
post Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM

New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 12

Joined: Apr 2005


finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~!
too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out.
izso
post Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM

New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 48

Joined: Jun 2005
QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 5 2014, 10:42 PM)
finally a pinned thread on car lubes~~! 
too bad i finally resorted to strictly comply to my manufacturer's oil until warranty is out.
*
Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice
efaceninja
post Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM

New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 12

Joined: Apr 2005


QUOTE(izso @ Aug 6 2014, 07:54 AM)
Got the budget? Swap to manufacturers oil, then immediately after that drive to a mechanic and change the oil to your own choice
*
Woh, don't have that kind of budget man.
izso
post Aug 6 2014, 08:50 AM

New Member
*
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 48

Joined: Jun 2005
QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 6 2014, 08:37 AM)
Woh, don't have that kind of budget man.
*
In that case what car are you driving? What does the warranty cover? If it's those 3+2 stories where 2 is insurance company coverage, you can forget about ever using your own oil. Insurance coverage is a b****. If it's 3 years manufacturer warranty you might be able to get away with using your own oil at the service center (you have to ask if you can bring your own oil. Some allow)
kalvinkhoo
post Aug 6 2014, 09:50 AM

Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 238

Joined: Jul 2008
From: Penang, Malaysia.



BEST!! NOTED!! thumbup.gif thumbup.gif
kalvinkhoo
post Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM

Getting Started
**
Group: Junior Member
Posts: 238

Joined: Jul 2008
From: Penang, Malaysia.



QUOTE(izso @ Aug 5 2014, 09:56 PM)
Fatality : Pennzoil is a cheap and cheerful oil. Not designed for motorsports but quite good for daily consumption since it's cheap and OEM for Toyota.

And I got my Eneos Touring expensive cuz bought from... Eneos. My mistake really. LOL.. and 95 is cheap!

kalvinkhoo : 5W30 and 10W30 no difference except cold start viscosity. And in Malaysia 5 or 10 doesn't make a difference. In a winter country this would matter.
*
oh so the number in-front actually is for the temperature? hmmmm... noob in old i hope u dont mind me asking.


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 5 2014, 10:34 PM)
help you link tongue.gif

[Fatalit[Y]] kalvinkhoo
hmm not even sure if it works with his brackets lol

anyways for your future reference:
CODE
[@[F]atalit[Y]] [@kalvinkhoo]


now on pennzoil:

they say same wo tongue.gif

ANNNNDDDDD it's available at tesco at a bargain:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868
pennzoil/shell partnership btw wink.gif

i'd get it in a heartbeat if it's 0w20 lol
*
Thnaks alot!

This post has been edited by kalvinkhoo: Aug 6 2014, 09:53 AM

195 Pages  1 2 3 > » Top
Bump TopicReply to this topicTopic OptionsStart new topic
 

Switch to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0897sec    1.78    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 10th December 2018 - 03:21 AM