I have wrapped my saga glove compartment using carbon fiber wrap. Personal experience, not so good because the glove box doesn't have a smooth surface for the wrap to cling on to. The bottom part of the glove box is now quite loose. Certain ends have to add some glue. Unfortunately, I dont have pictures with me atm. If I recall correctly, it cost me about RM8 for the wrap shipped in from China and I still have balance.

Hi iswara-ian

I bought a steering and it is taken out from iswara (same design like wira se steering, but middle it written proton instead of proton logo and it is black leather)
The steering didn't come with the plastic behind the steering to auto off the signal. My current one(wira) cannot fit with the steering. Anyone have extra unit? I buy from u

Already look at spare part and accessories shop, they only sell in set together with the signals and wiper switch. I dont need all that extras

Thank you

Need comments on below on the pricing wise:

Rear Absorber Monroe Reflex RM7X per piece from spare parts
Installation Rear Absorber RM4X by regular mechanic

Exhaust so called Aisin OEM manufactured by Datco, Part number 02-P714-ARSP RM28X with installation.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xk8ud6t3mjko7vr/I...181048.jpg?dl=0

Originally thought just want to patch weld some rusted holes on exhaust "tong", but claimed whatever inside the "tong" (fibres?) might already burnt out due to aging. Also claimed by person to be quite noisy but after changed to new realized no difference in noise level. Vacuum meter, however registered slight more back pressure on throttle release, 0.01kpa-0.02kpa LOL?

Another thing is I had my 8 years old distributor cap opened and got the pics as per below. Wondering is it time to replace the cap and rotor already?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/t2t0wb06v4kgzz4/I...0428_154712.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qn5wizjaguowzrj/I...0428_154748.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9czp9bbpn8oogbo/I...0428_154826.jpg

Also below are my Bougicord spark plugs cables resistance readings. I believe Bougicord is copper cable right? Hopefully got enlightenment with other values to compare, Bosch or Bougicord or Aro speed no prob!
(Nearest to Distributor, Shortest Length) 5.73k ohms
(Further from Distributor, Medium Length) 8.23k ohms
(Furthest from Distributor, beside timing belt, Longest Length) 10.6k ohms

Quoted resistance values from NGK website:


Why i'm checking all this? Well I just wanted to ensure everything parts related to distributor/ignition are OK before I start to retard the ignition timing. Just done OCI and with new spark plugs, if all parts looks ok i guess really had to retard it liao...

absorbers are cheaper than KYB excel G
front, rear should be a bit cheaper similar to your pricing i guess? (it was gas based, fuck oil based lol) that i've gotten recently before gst @ rm110 per piece.

rear absorbers i gotten IMP comfort at 140/piece total 280 (lol more expensive than front ) since was quite ok with their propex however the short stroke wasn't too ideal in a lot of situations.

well if you dont mind spending like rm50 +/- for the bosch, you can just get one and compare. and can also share findings over here for our reference

the pictures still in my phone, i should be getting my lazy ass off someday and post the work logs for my iswara major work prior to gst (2,8k+ spent in total lol)

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Apr 29 2015, 01:28 AM

From the photos, the condition of your distributor cap looks much better than mine - I have to clean up the white powder, oil/dirt etc. I did that because of misfiring during morning after rainy nights. Turns out the cause was spark plug gap too big ( BP5ES-11 type of plugs which have higher gap), after I regapped to around 0.7mm, so far so good.

Are you having any misfiring problems?

In the photos there is some dirt which may cause short-circuits due to carbon-tracking - behind the terminal at the right. For the rotor arm, usually I just lightly sandpaper a bit.

Don't know about resistance of the cables, have to do some reading...

This post has been edited by Albert B: Apr 29 2015, 02:24 PM

For those familiar the Proton Iswara 1996 model (1.3, 12 valve),
my front right (driver's side) door's rubber stripping, leaks a little at
the bottom (where the pouch for maps, etc is), when it rains heavily,
for example, yesterday.

In mild to moderate rain, it's alright.

I was told by my ''mudguard man'' in Sungei Way that this is normal
for this type of cars, and can be left alone. Even his Iswara has the same issue.

Anyway, I happened to be at one of the parts shops, AME Auto, in Jalan
21/11, PJ, and asked about the rubber stripping.

They took out one labelled ''Iswara LH'' and showed me, but told me that
both left and right doors' rubber seals are actually interchangeable for
the Iswara.

A check with other parts shops confirmed this.

I was wondering, the curvatures for left and right would be asymmetrical,
and how it was going to fit for either side ?

The mudguard man, on calling him, said left cannot be used for right,
and vice versa.

Might any Iswara owner have experience with this ?

i replaced the rubber stripping although i've never noticed if they are asymmetrical.
looks the same to me on either side tbh

Thanks for your information.

Did you replace it yourself ?

This young mechanic in Sentul told me it was just a matter of
pulling out the old rubber and pushing in the new one, but the
mudguard man said that the vinyl plastic panelling around the rubber,
including that at the windscreen frame, had to be prised open to do so.

nope got workshop to do it

Guys just want to ask...
Today i bought Castrol magnetic 10w40 for my iswara at tesco for only Rm75
Is that ok?

should be ok.

I am curious about this leakage issue, my 15 year old Iswara (original seals) do not have this problem. The roof drainage channels do a good job dispersing the rain water away from the door seal. Looking at the photo below, it is difficult to visualise how the water get to the bottom of the seal unless the drainage channel is leaking at the slope at the windscreen edge. From my observations after a heavy rain or a car wash, the area outside the seal below the pouch is hardly wet at all.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Apr 30 2015, 10:56 AM


Attached thumbnail(s)

That's what is happening in my case.

I can see rain water draining downwards at the slope at the
windscreen edge, down the area where the door hinges are.

I think the roof's long, thin rubber stripping has hardened somewhat.

If you replace this thin long strip it might help solve your leakage problem. This strip looks like it is installed by just sliding into some groove.

I was looking at that rubber strip this afternoon.

Actually, it ends just above the door's upper hinge, or just below
the plastic padding at about the corner of the windscreen's right frame,
or at about the level of the right wiper.

Rain water would still still have to drain down that slope, ending at
the lower part and bottom of the door rubber seal. That is why that
door rubber is still needed.

I was wondering how yours managed to remain totally dry after rain ?


Secondly, that roof stripping looks very tightly snug into its groove.
I think it has to be slowly pushed in all along its length, rather than
just sliding in from either end.





This post has been edited by Tham: May 1 2015, 10:57 PM

I just did a test by pouring basin-loads of water over the top of an LMST driver's door, to torture the seals and the drain channels. I dumped the water such that the rate of water flow is much more than in a rainstorm. The photos of the result are compiled as below.

Yes the water cascades down the A-pillar hinge area, and a small amount wetted the door seal. But none gets into the cabin. The top of the seal (sloping part) is totally dry; if this part is wet, it may follow the seal all the way down between the gap and into the cabin.

Yes the door seal is still needed as part of the sealing system, however, from my observation, most of the water is diverted away from it,only a small amount will reach the door seal and not too much as to overwhelm it.

The LMST weather seal is identical to my 15 yr old Iswara, so far no rain water ever got into the cabin. Considering that I have not changed or modified the seals, the thing works very well for me.


This post has been edited by Albert B: May 2 2015, 01:30 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

I coudnt off my back mirror wiper. Anywhere to disable it?


Attached thumbnail(s)

Thanks for the trouble to take and mark the photos, as well as your self-test.

Yes, mine has some moisture too, though probably more than yours,
at the parts of the door rubber you indicated - the front sloping
hinge area, and bottom.

I was thinking you had mentioned earlier that these parts, especially
the sloping hinge area, was totally dry, which had me scratching my head.

However, the top of my door rubber also has moisture, while yours
is totally dry, indicating that my top roofing rubber strip has aged.

I looked at the insides of the door, against which that rubber strip
presses against, and it had moisture on it, which definitely means
my rubber strip is not sealing too well.

All your weather stripping is still in good shape after all these years,
proving that your car has been well cared for - possibly you have
a garage to keep it from the hot sun when you are at home, and/or
you have indoor parking at your place of work.

I have none in both cases - the sun's heat would have accelerated
the aging of all rubber components in the car before their time.

Since you have identified the probable area of the leak, why not try to shape that part of the rubber strip to have firmer contact with the door and see there is any improvement, say by glueing some lining, or by using a bit of heat and bending it out ... maybe you can improvise something ... The purpose is to experiment, prior to the alternative of replacing the strip or seals...

I think the moisture at the upper part of the seal is likely to have trickled down into the cabin because of gravity. The moisture at the side and bottom is unlikely to flow past the inner plastic trim which is higher/inner than the rubber seal.

No, the 15 yr old Iswara is parked in the open. And I have not done any kind of maintenance of the seal/strip other than washing, cleaning of the leaves, dirt etc

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 3 2015, 02:08 PM

Mine does not have rear wipers, but by looking at the circuits you can either:

1) According to the circuit diagram,removing fuse no.4 will disable both front and back wipers (check your fusebox sticker to confirm if this is correct). This will be a problem if you need to drive in rainy weather, so it should be temporary solution while you get the wiper repaired.

OR

2) Is the rear wiper switch located at the instrument panel ? If so, you can pry out the switch and unplug the socket (this step is assuming the switch has a fault. This step won't work if there is a short to ground at the motor side, or at the wiring)

Above are temporary solutions only, you need to have the rear wiper circuits checked.
To disable the motor properly, you have to dismantle the hatchback trim to access the wiring socket, for this I have no experience; other members have accessed the motor for other purposes, see for example :

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=68400304

This post has been edited by Albert B: May 3 2015, 05:23 PM