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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V25, Keep it up!!! Old and Retro machines

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TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:23 PM, updated 14y ago

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From: Bangsar


Introduction of Proton Saga / Iswara

The Proton Saga is the first car produced by Malaysian auto manufacturer Proton, based on the 1983 Mitsubishi Lancer Fiore. It first debuted in September 1985. The first Proton Saga that rolled off the production line was presented to the Malaysian National Museum as a symbol of the beginning of the Malaysian automotive industry.

Since then, the Proton Saga and its variants contributed to most of Proton's sales and revenues. The Saga variants are also popular among Malaysian taxi drivers and operators who need cheap vehicles with good fuel economy. The Saga is currently the longest surviving brand in a line of cars offered by Proton.

Saga / Iswara Owners List

1. kahheng (29/09)
2. chowdm
3. singchaii (16/09)
4. apache_utara
5. the_catacombs (15/09)
6. feralee
7. blackpc
8. domo_kun
9. bukanmain
10. ~Battousai~
11. ceo684
12. edtan5
13. Tainted
14. Xefron
15. RoxyMunky
16. keith121284
17. mengfui
18. hamiru
19. KeV
20. batista_beast (retired member. Now a BMW enthusiast)
21. kudepadi
22. eXpert
23. dcarbon AKA (yongfei)
24. bullet
25. lov3too4ll
26. daktzuk
27. elaineliew88
28. UnCleHenG
29. kevinlim001
30. airpool2407
31. jabelix
32. zhixin
33. CerealKiller
34. sonic_darkknight
35. leinnz
36. nightzstar
37. bjay1482
38. HughieRmX
39. popopi
40. xacrifizer
41. sonicscourge
42. kenzo
43. bryanhkc84
44. icyd
45. mickeywjy
46. andychan (31/8)
47. ronaldet
48. Gilbert5107(13/9)
49. stanum
50. jenniferyoke(19/10)
51. -pWs-
52. tysern
53. joekang86
54. dopeisgood
55. neosaint99
56. wkho555 get car on 11/10/07
57. flyingteeku
58. darude87
59. quick_shaq
60. stupidbump
61. carcraze66
62. how to save a life
63. kakashixws
64. XG.
65. chicaman
66. yewwing
67. neshh
68. virginslayer
69. ThanatosSwiftfire
70. kabyss87
71. firdz
72. ahseng84
73. englandcaptain
74. Anthony87
75. PureGeek
76. allenyip
77. PinkyWhite wub.gif
78. IcEMoCHa
79. felix5152001
80. shiinkuro31
81. lwc1989
82. Calvin
83. mE_duNNo
84. Halia_Merah
85. godspeeds
86. long_con
87. Nskyline
88. heavencloud
89. lkylyk
90. evoluzzion
91. Shawnzz
92. alexwsk
93. Maksimum
94. samosa
95. faidzal1982
96. Hikaru Kenshin
97. lennon_87
98. reuben_1991
99. aichiban
100. ibnuasad
101. juniorkirk
102. aidil_fahmi
103. rozz_1291 (current TS)
104. JJTam
105. ravemaster222003
106. eggtart
107. yOuNg$tEr
108. zyde
109. x_suncai
110. HoobastanK(2)
111. ronzai89
112. lengchai86
113. nap2617 aka Rudy
114. ~alternate fearless~ A.K.A HighRevSAGA/GMS
115. Arcsaber
116. UranusFoo
117. riduanteo
118. id86
119. Black Panther
120. napoli26
121. dakwan5555
122. mls_ gamer
123. johannemiir
124. Zack Styler
125. joshgm_119
126. shawns
127. TWLOH
128. Irenicus_extr
129. kellefe
130. touge_ke70
131. hamster9
132. cyclone61
133. 91jude
134. macho_siot
135. beastiex
136. Yashiro
137. Reizz
138. bobfuzie
139. Strawberry<3
140. evolution120
141. chris3k6
142. mchlkeys
143. taitianhin
144. Shafique
145. newaythem3
146. zax1116
147. Notoriez
148. jezztanjl
149. mizi28
150. layeong
151. Cyril
152. Alex_tan168
153. jackchong890
154. StarburstMz
155. Ah Hei
156. Chan320
157. Babyiswara
158. sinister_sid
159. stasis21
160. GTL
161. nookie7
162. wct
163. unxeen888
164. omgkenny
165. n3w
166. fleekreturn
167. Peekab0o
168. heavenly91
169. ILikePie
170. edwin1234
171. Quazacolt
172. Lowenkreuz
173. cyanboy

Do PM me if ur name is not listed!

This post has been edited by rozz_1291: Nov 24 2011, 11:42 AM
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:23 PM

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user posted image

Tyre & Rim Info
1) PCD
-> stands for pitch circle diameter, numbers of bolts on the wheel
-> got a few PCD types: 100 (eg: wira, honda), 114.3 (eg: saga iswara, satria neo), 110 (kancil), etc.
user posted image

2) Offset
-> distance from the center of the rim to the attaching disk part
-> normally can be adjusted using spacer
user posted image

3) Spacer
-> a round piece of metal that has holes on it, the function is to avoid/adjust the wheel from rubbing the arch/fender
-> got few sizes/thickness
-> if u r using 8 holes rim sure need to add spacer on the front

4) 14" or 15"
-> i prefer 15" bcoz 14" less choices for performance tires tongue.gif

5) Best PCD and offset
-> 114.3 and 38-40 (need check with sifoo..)
user posted image

Credit goes to: Killer
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum Rules n Regulations
Following rules are being implemented to prevent any unhappiness arise during discussion.

Rule 1:
This is not a trading thread. Any trading activities must be done in discreet. Use PM la!

Rule 2:
This is not a place for u to show off. Respect all saga/iswara driver if u doesn't own a saga/iswara but u wish to join our thread please respect all others member. Do not make statement like "This car doesn't deserve any modification". If u don't like us don't join our discussion. We also not welcome u to make any statement to show off here.

Rule 3:
All other LYN rules applied in this Forum too.

These rules and regulations has to be followed by existing and new members. Any unsatisfaction and comment pls PM me and allow me to discuss with all senior members before the rule is being change or new rule being implement.

Extra information on warranty issues:

Warranty FAQs
1. What makes the warranty contract null and void?
For details, please refer to your PROTON Service Booklet under Section 4 of Warranty and Limitation of Liability. However, PROTON reserves the right of final decision on all warranty claims.

2. What is covered by the warranty?

Subject to terms and conditions, PERUSAHAAN OTOMOBIL NASIONAL BERHAD (referred as PROTON) warrants that any items of the "Basic Warranty and Specific Warranty" of the new vehicle manufactured by and for PROTON shall be free from any defects in materials and workmanship of these warranty covered by new vehicle limited warranty will be repaired or replaced free of charge by any PROTON's authorised distributors or dealers.

Basic Warranty items


The basic warranty items that are any items of the new PROTON vehicle (except the Specific items and the Special transacted items*) are warranted to 24 months or 50,000 kms, whichever comes first.

Specific Warranty items

The specific warranty items listed below are warranted to 12 months or 20,000 kms, whichever comes first.

*
Battery (for Diesel - 6 months)
*
Exhaust
*
Injection nozzle for diesel powered vehicle
*
Glow plug for diesel powered vehicle

Special Transacted items*

The concerned manufacturer for Clarion radio cassette and speakers warrant the special transacted items.

3. What are the other types of warranty offered by EON?

Parts Warranty is given to all parts purchased at EON service network for 6 months or 10,000 kms, whichever comes first.

Rust Proofing Warranty is given to all PROTON vehicles, which are treated with anti-rust spray for 6 years from registration date.
4. Can I use my own lubricant/engine oil at EON Service Centre?
Yes. EON will not be responsible for any problem arising from the usage of other brands other than our recommended lubricant/engine oil.

5. Is it important to use genuine parts?

Yes, it is important that you use PROTON genuine parts and accessories.

This will ensure that the original vehicle specifications are maintained and that the replacement parts meet the same high standards as the vehicle original equipments. This will also ensure the vehicle compliance to the government regulations relating to vehicle safety and environmental controls. The use of parts that do not conform to the correct specification may cause damage to the vehicle and could also invalidate the terms of the warranty.

credit goes to Kevin thumbup.gif

USUAL PERFORMANCE UPGRADE FOR SAGA/ISWARA

Intake
1. High Flow Open Pod (from rm50 onwards) or Drop In Air Filters (only K&N available, rm215) sweat.gif
2. Due to the bad placing of the stock air intake resulting in hot air being sucked, it is recommended to add a Cold Air Intake. Various types of hose available for this DIY upgrade. Position the intake in front of the radiator, and you will definitely gain valuable power and better the fuel consumption! thumbup.gif

Exhaust
4-2-1 Tuned Length Extractor (from rm400 onwards) for high exhaust flow with minimal restriction & power increase. Use cap ayam brand and you will end up with power loss instead.

Ignition
1. Performance spark plug cable (from rm50 onwards). Recommended brands are the like of RAM and Pro Rallye. They say thick cables produce bigger spark which results in better combustion=more power=better fuel consumption. Some reported radio interference. However most enthusiast remain skeptic and stuck with the stock plug cable. So you decide. icon_idea.gif
2. Side gapped spark plug. This is a cheap performance upgrade. Your standard spark plug's electrode is shaved away to provide a bigger 'open' spark. It is also recommended to 'index' the spark plug so that when it's plugged in, the spark area will directly face the combustion chamber. Downside is, the plug will not last as long. Again, most enthusiast remain skeptic. http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/...idegapping.html

Engine
1. Port & Polish Engine Head (from rm400~rm1500). Smoothen the rough internals for better air/exhaust flow & power increase.
2. High Performance Camshafts (from rm600~rm1500). Modified camshafts profile can ensure more air-fuel mixture to reach the cylinder at the correct timing resulting in horsepower & torque increase.
3. Lightened Crank Pulley (from rm200~rm650). Release loss horsepower due to heavy stock crank pulley. Better acceleration and fuel consumption. Revs drop faster though. Enthusiasts are still arguing about rubber dampened or non-dampened crank pulley. Again, you decide. icon_idea.gif

Handling
1. Suspension (from rm500~RM2000). Depending on your budget and liking, you can opt for sports short stroke absorber coupled with sports spring or go for semi-adjustable absorbers. Be aware that this upgrade will cause uncomfortable ride. Brands like APM Performax cost about rm500 while adjustables from GAB or Improve will set you back about rm1500.
2. Chassis Stiffening Bars (from rm150 onwards). Front stabiliser bar, fender bars, lower arm bar, rear strut bar, etc will help the car reduce its flex during heavy corners and help the suspension keep the tires planted to the tarmac. The more bar installed, the more solid the ride. Not to mention they will add to the weight as well.

Brakes
1. Double Layer Brake Servo (from rm100 onwards) - This half cut item is popular among enthusiasts. A great help to improve stopping power. However idling will be a bit rough. Sourced from VR4, Pajero or Honda SM4.
2. High-Temp Brake Pads (from rm120 onwards) - Higher temperature handling will avoid the risk of fading brakes during aggressive or mountain driving. At the moment, Rapid Stop pads is the way to go.
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:24 PM

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From: Bangsar


Featured Car in SIE

Monster ride in this thread; the_catacombs' ride (aka SkYwAlKeR)
user posted image

Uranus Foo
user posted image

rozz_1291
user posted image

Yewwing
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TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:24 PM

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From: Bangsar


Member's Ride(hidden monster non monster)

Kevin's LMST
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
shiinkuro31's ride
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eXpert
user posted image
Gilbert5107
user posted image
yewwing
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Shawnzz
user posted image
Zhixin
user posted image
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:25 PM

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861 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Bangsar


rozz_1291's ex ride
user posted image
godspeeds
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sjz
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ronaldet
user posted image
Shafique
user posted image
juniorkirk
user posted image
Chan320
user posted image
GMS fearless
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Notoriez
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dakwan
user posted image
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:25 PM

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861 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Bangsar


stasis21
user posted image

n3w
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fleekreturn
user posted image

Peekab0o
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sinister_sid
user posted image

This post has been edited by rozz_1291: Nov 24 2011, 11:44 AM
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:26 PM

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Joined: Dec 2007
From: Bangsar


Members Engine Bay:

the_catacombs:
user posted image

Twin DCOE:
user posted image

wkho555's DGAV:
user posted image

Siapa punya??? hmm.gif
user posted image

andychan:
user posted image
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


rozz_1291's ex engine bay:
user posted image

Uranus Foo's 4G93T monster powered by microtech!
user posted image

rozz_1291's 4G61 Factory stock
user posted image
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:26 PM

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861 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Bangsar


~Reserved~
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:27 PM

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861 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Bangsar


~Reserved~
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 22 2011, 12:27 PM

Semi N/A
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861 posts

Joined: Dec 2007
From: Bangsar


Enjoy the new thread guys and gals.... Keep up the Spirit!!! rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif
ronzai89
post Nov 22 2011, 12:29 PM

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From: Kuala Lumpur.... Status: 32Bit Mode ON


1st post!!!

ex iswala owner, still keeping it and revving till rev cut brows.gif

This post has been edited by ronzai89: Nov 22 2011, 12:30 PM
ILikePie
post Nov 22 2011, 01:01 PM

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Congrats on V25 rclxms.gif
yewwing
post Nov 22 2011, 01:07 PM

Casual
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From: Some where in Malaysia



reporting in smile.gif
low yat 82
post Nov 22 2011, 01:14 PM

time is nearing to end
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this rozz suddenly can pop out of nowhere n create new topic 1. salute~~
[kuaLe]_AGX
post Nov 22 2011, 01:29 PM

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From: Vinovo


new tered...nice
poolcarpet
post Nov 22 2011, 01:47 PM

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Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
Just changed my stock cables to ori Proton-Bougicord cables. RM60 from nearest spare part shop smile.gif

I do notice that just changing the distributor cap + rotor arm already made the car feel more responsive. Hope the cables will improve it further and see if I can get closer to the so called published FC of 5.5l/100km blink.gif

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Nov 22 2011, 01:48 PM
Peekab0o
post Nov 22 2011, 03:53 PM

New Member
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Reporting inzz... yap gogo... lets whack dato sagor track on December 18 !!!
cyanboy
post Nov 22 2011, 04:18 PM

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Joined: Oct 2009
Waliao so fast... Post #18...

Keep this up!


QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Nov 22 2011, 01:47 PM)
Just changed my stock cables to ori Proton-Bougicord cables. RM60 from nearest spare part shop smile.gif

I do notice that just changing the distributor cap + rotor arm already made the car feel more responsive. Hope the cables will improve it further and see if I can get closer to the so called published FC of 5.5l/100km  blink.gif
*
Published fc? Macam susah sikit... unsure.gif

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Nov 22 2011, 04:20 PM
poolcarpet
post Nov 22 2011, 04:38 PM

On my way
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From: Mars
key word is CLOSER tongue.gif tongue.gif tongue.gif not REACHING tongue.gif

BTW, anyone here ever bought the choke repair kit and diy repair the autochoke? I think my autochoke is gone, now feeling like repairing it.

After changing distributor cap + rotor arm + original spark plug cable, can feel idling better!!! At one point I didn't even realize engine was running!!!! smile.gif I changed all engine mountings not too long ago so it's solid!!


QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 22 2011, 04:18 PM)
Waliao so fast... Post #18...

Keep this up!
Published fc? Macam susah sikit... unsure.gif
*
Quazacolt
post Nov 22 2011, 06:40 PM

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From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(ronzai89 @ Nov 22 2011, 12:29 PM)
1st post!!!

ex iswala owner, still keeping it and revving till rev cut brows.gif
*
how do you become an ex owner but still keeping it? lol
Peekab0o
post Nov 22 2011, 06:46 PM

New Member
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 22 2011, 06:40 PM)
how do you become an ex owner but still keeping it? lol
*
He means he owns 2 cars.. 1 an old iswara which is still keeping at home , another is... brows.gif 32bit...
Lowenkreuz
post Nov 23 2011, 12:01 AM

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reporting in. btw imma pm u. my name not listed... sad.gif

Edit: It's listed now, tankiu veli much! rclxms.gif

This post has been edited by Lowenkreuz: Nov 25 2011, 05:31 PM
the_catacombs
post Nov 23 2011, 01:17 AM

8 stars wooo....
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From: disini disana


hello
cyanboy
post Nov 23 2011, 10:59 AM

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Problem:
When I let my car roll down slope around 10-20km/h and pull handbrake, the rear drum brake giving me sound also...

1. Is LMST stock brakes leading/trailing type or duo servo?
2. Does this means that drum brake punye pads juga worn out?
3. Will it be "out-of-shape" resulting higher cost?
4. Cost around how much... (I'm paying by cash btw,later tak cukup wang then mati)

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Nov 23 2011, 11:00 AM
poolcarpet
post Nov 23 2011, 11:06 AM

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From: Mars
I believe it's leading/trailing. It could be just brake dust, last time I got mechanic to change rear drum brake pads for me, the amount of dust is unbelievable.

The brake pads should not cost much, less than RM50 for sure. See here only RM30 smile.gif but original part maybe slightly more expensive, not very sure.

Also found this one RM60 in mudah!

Maybe just get mech to change and clean the rear drum brakes and see how it goes?

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 23 2011, 10:59 AM)
Problem:
When I let my car roll down slope around 10-20km/h and pull handbrake, the rear drum brake giving me sound also...

1. Is LMST stock brakes leading/trailing type or duo servo?
2. Does this means that drum brake punye pads juga worn out?
3. Will it be "out-of-shape" resulting higher cost?
4. Cost around how much... (I'm paying by cash btw,later tak cukup wang then mati)
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Nov 23 2011, 11:56 AM
Quazacolt
post Nov 23 2011, 11:08 AM

Riding couple
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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Nov 23 2011, 11:06 AM)
I believe it's leading/trailing. It could be just brake dust, last time I got mechanic to change rear drum brake pads for me, the amount of dust is unbelievable.

The brake pads should not cost much, less than RM50 for sure.

Maybe just get mech to change and clean the rear drum brakes and see how it goes?
*
^

better if just check/clean brake dusts first lo, workmanship/labour maybe rm10-20 more/less

if still got sound maybe troubleshoot further/change drum brake pads
poolcarpet
post Nov 23 2011, 11:10 AM

On my way
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Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
If it's been a while since changing the rear brake - might as well change it one shot. Clean one time pay $ for labour, later change another round $ labour... smile.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 23 2011, 11:08 AM)
^

better if just check/clean brake dusts first lo, workmanship/labour maybe rm10-20 more/less

if still got sound maybe troubleshoot further/change drum brake pads
*
cyanboy
post Nov 23 2011, 12:47 PM

Getting Started
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Joined: Oct 2009
QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Nov 23 2011, 11:06 AM)
I believe it's leading/trailing. It could be just brake dust, last time I got mechanic to change rear drum brake pads for me, the amount of dust is unbelievable.

The brake pads should not cost much, less than RM50 for sure. See here only RM30 smile.gif but original part maybe slightly more expensive, not very sure.

Also found this one RM60 in mudah!

Maybe just get mech to change and clean the rear drum brakes and see how it goes?
*
QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Nov 23 2011, 11:10 AM)
If it's been a while since changing the rear brake - might as well change it one shot. Clean one time pay $ for labour, later change another round $ labour... smile.gif
*
Wow... Bendix seemed very branded it's brakes...
I don't think i'm going back to SC to kena cut throat... Btw the car is had been with me less than 1 month, clocking 26000km... I expect the owner didn't change before.


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 23 2011, 11:08 AM)
^

better if just check/clean brake dusts first lo, workmanship/labour maybe rm10-20 more/less

if still got sound maybe troubleshoot further/change drum brake pads
*
Got it... Will tengok-tengok how...
poolcarpet
post Nov 23 2011, 02:12 PM

On my way
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Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
26k km is too low for the rear brake shoes to wear out......

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 23 2011, 12:47 PM)
Wow... Bendix seemed very branded it's brakes...
I don't think i'm going back to SC to kena cut throat... Btw the car is had been with me less than 1 month, clocking 26000km... I expect the owner didn't change before.
Got it... Will tengok-tengok how...
*
DaBestOne
post Nov 23 2011, 02:20 PM

-LYN- 6 ★STARS★ Trader
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From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.



QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Nov 23 2011, 01:17 AM)
hello
*
hi
ThanatosSwiftfire
post Nov 24 2011, 12:15 AM

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Hey, Hi guys. Erm.. anyone has any good recommendations for Saga LMST's tyres? I've been on this set of tyres for about 4 years+ and I guess it's about time to change.


Codyx
post Nov 24 2011, 12:44 AM

Hardcore as Always
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Joined: Mar 2009
From: Rawang, Selayang, Kepong...


Car breakdown, cannot start, some indian porman come to 'help', identified FUEL PUMP stuck..... forman bring pump back service, serviced Fuel Pump then OK can start.

happen within 11pm-1am

rm100 fly(midnight OT + Ciggar money) -> 'indian forman'

:S
cyanboy
post Nov 24 2011, 01:10 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Nov 23 2011, 02:12 PM)
26k km is too low for the rear brake shoes to wear out......
*
Good news... then i'll just send it for cleaning...
Hope they dun tell me the lady driver before me use handbrake to drift until rear brake shoes burnt also...

QUOTE(ThanatosSwiftfire @ Nov 24 2011, 12:15 AM)
Hey, Hi guys. Erm.. anyone has any good recommendations for Saga LMST's tyres? I've been on this set of tyres for about 4 years+ and I guess it's about time to change.
*
When I got mine is Continental... Highway wise I think quite quiet...
I tried before Ralken on Waja is really noisy...
Wait for other sifu's to reply and see...

QUOTE(Codyx @ Nov 24 2011, 12:44 AM)
Car breakdown, cannot start, some indian porman come to 'help', identified FUEL PUMP stuck..... forman bring pump back service, serviced Fuel Pump then OK can start.

happen within 11pm-1am

rm100 fly(midnight OT + Ciggar money) -> 'indian forman'

:S
*
You sure the car broke down itself? Or you go highway toilet then some one "gao tim" your fuel pump?
That one must let them cut throat, no choice...
Codyx
post Nov 24 2011, 01:12 AM

Hardcore as Always
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Senior Member
928 posts

Joined: Mar 2009
From: Rawang, Selayang, Kepong...


rm100 consider cheap lo...i drive till half car mati itself........then cannot start afterwards....i tot overheat or something or no fuel everythin checked myself no prob....


Added on November 24, 2011, 1:13 ami even pluck the tube myself and start got fuel split out....but i never touch the pump area

This post has been edited by Codyx: Nov 24 2011, 01:13 AM
GMS FearLess
post Nov 24 2011, 01:51 AM

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new V ah.....lalu tumpang
Peekab0o
post Nov 24 2011, 08:27 AM

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QUOTE(ThanatosSwiftfire @ Nov 24 2011, 12:15 AM)
Hey, Hi guys. Erm.. anyone has any good recommendations for Saga LMST's tyres? I've been on this set of tyres for about 4 years+ and I guess it's about time to change.
*
What size u currently using ??? Hard to recommend without knowing size...
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 24 2011, 12:53 PM

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Haizzz.... I think my rear ARB bracket sudah snapped. Now got this weird metal hitting each other sound sad.gif
lyordson
post Nov 24 2011, 01:21 PM

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hello new tread. hello new problem.

my windscreen cracked. hit by a rock. kinda bad but still can see and drive. is Dr Cermin recomended? their price, workmanship ok? they said change a new screen is RM3xx. reasonable? or theres other workshop can do better?

This post has been edited by lyordson: Nov 24 2011, 01:21 PM
feralee
post Nov 24 2011, 01:54 PM

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QUOTE(ThanatosSwiftfire @ Nov 24 2011, 12:15 AM)
Hey, Hi guys. Erm.. anyone has any good recommendations for Saga LMST's tyres? I've been on this set of tyres for about 4 years+ and I guess it's about time to change.
*
wat is yr budget?

u can try c drive or the xml 2 icon_rolleyes.gif
Codyx
post Nov 24 2011, 01:57 PM

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If driving suddenly throttle locked (keep accelerating although no tekan)....is carburetor throttle head need to service d?
GMS FearLess
post Nov 24 2011, 02:06 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Nov 24 2011, 01:21 PM)
hello new tread. hello new problem.

my windscreen cracked. hit by a rock. kinda bad but still can see and drive. is Dr Cermin recomended? their price, workmanship ok? they said change a new screen is RM3xx. reasonable? or theres other workshop can do better?
*


that 3xx 1 layer or 2 layer....???
lyordson
post Nov 24 2011, 02:41 PM

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doouble layered
GMS FearLess
post Nov 24 2011, 02:59 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Nov 24 2011, 02:41 PM)
doouble layered
*
that cheap man....last i change because shaterred.....Mirror itself 350....not include workmanship...RM150 and mirror trim and 2 barrel of silicon already 60-70....
poolcarpet
post Nov 24 2011, 03:08 PM

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I asked mg windscreen at ampang recently, rm320 for laminated incl install. Didnt change though cause mine is small crack only. Wait and see.

You can also try Glass mechanic ss2, they do repair and also change windscreen i think. I repaired my other car windscreen before, was a long 2-3 inch crack so far still ok now.
evoluzzion
post Nov 24 2011, 07:24 PM

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yuhuuu... hye guyss... smile.gif haha.. remember me..? long time didnt singgah this thread la.. how do u guys doin...?? hehe.. just check in..to see what u guys up to.. its been a long time i didnt post here.. smile.gif
ThanatosSwiftfire
post Nov 24 2011, 08:00 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Nov 24 2011, 08:27 AM)
What size u currently using ??? Hard to recommend without knowing size...
*
Been using stock tyres since I got the car.. I think 185/60 R14

QUOTE(feralee @ Nov 24 2011, 01:54 PM)
wat is yr budget?

u can try c drive or the xml 2  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
Erm.. I'm not so sure.. about <150/tire?
poolcarpet
post Nov 24 2011, 08:18 PM

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I think xm2 will cost rm170-180 for that size. If you dare, can try achilles brand rm120-130 i think. Indonesian tire. wink.gif

QUOTE(ThanatosSwiftfire @ Nov 24 2011, 08:00 PM)
Been using stock tyres since I got the car.. I think 185/60 R14
Erm.. I'm not so sure.. about <150/tire?
*
lyordson
post Nov 25 2011, 01:11 AM

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hey guys, where is our block number located? tried to find in engine bay but cant find..
sinister_sid
post Nov 25 2011, 01:35 AM

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QUOTE(evoluzzion @ Nov 24 2011, 07:24 PM)
yuhuuu... hye guyss... smile.gif haha.. remember me..? long time didnt singgah this thread la.. how do u guys doin...?? hehe.. just check in..to see what u guys up to.. its been a long time i didnt post here.. smile.gif
*
lame x jumpe brows.gif


Added on November 25, 2011, 1:39 am
QUOTE(Codyx @ Nov 24 2011, 12:44 AM)
Car breakdown, cannot start, some indian porman come to 'help', identified FUEL PUMP stuck..... forman bring pump back service, serviced Fuel Pump then OK can start.

happen within 11pm-1am

rm100 fly(midnight OT + Ciggar money) -> 'indian forman'

:S
*
have ur fuel filter check and change
check whether its black and dirty anot
fuel filter clogged will have this syndrum
if a/c pump aka fuel pump kong the diagram inside tear out and cannot be fix
suspect u kena con liaw
anyway have it check to avoid this problem again

This post has been edited by sinister_sid: Nov 25 2011, 01:39 AM
cyanboy
post Nov 25 2011, 03:29 AM

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QUOTE(mxsteven @ Nov 24 2011, 09:17 AM)
the brand dosent sound good.... i use Shell ATF is the best....coz i have done load chart test.... the most less load is the one shell dunno what ATF later i check back my auto log book then i tell u.
*
Sometimes LMST when off engine, the engine will die off then idle for 1 sec and gone off again... Is it tappet adjustment out is it?
DSV4600
post Nov 25 2011, 06:07 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Nov 24 2011, 08:18 PM)
I think xm2 will cost rm170-180 for that size. If you dare, can try achilles brand rm120-130 i think. Indonesian tire. wink.gif
*
185/60/14 can get Hankook V8 @ V2 Blackbird at Tek Ming Sunway. One of the best 14' tyres available for this size.
Rated UHP, damn chun to drive in rain...
Peekab0o
post Nov 25 2011, 07:47 AM

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QUOTE(evoluzzion @ Nov 24 2011, 07:24 PM)
yuhuuu... hye guyss... smile.gif haha.. remember me..? long time didnt singgah this thread la.. how do u guys doin...?? hehe.. just check in..to see what u guys up to.. its been a long time i didnt post here.. smile.gif
*
Hai ~ brows.gif

QUOTE(lyordson @ Nov 25 2011, 01:11 AM)
hey guys, where is our block number located? tried to find in engine bay but cant find..
*
If u wan a very clear view of it ... plug out ur plug cable no 4 >>> right hand side... look deeper inside there is like a platform... maybe got oil stain bla bla cover it oledi that y u cant see lol...
Lowenkreuz
post Nov 25 2011, 05:11 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 25 2011, 03:29 AM)
Sometimes LMST when off engine, the engine will die off then idle for 1 sec and gone off again... Is it tappet adjustment out is it?
*
I think that's call dieseling. Carb related problem i think. I also have that problem sometimes, not sure why also.... hmm.gif
Codyx
post Nov 25 2011, 11:03 PM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Nov 25 2011, 05:11 PM)
I think that's call dieseling. Carb related problem i think. I also have that problem sometimes, not sure why also.... hmm.gif
*
*raise hand*

that's why i off slowly >ON>Power>off...step by step
[kuaLe]_AGX
post Nov 25 2011, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 25 2011, 03:29 AM)
Sometimes LMST when off engine, the engine will die off then idle for 1 sec and gone off again... Is it tappet adjustment out is it?
*
same here. Some says might be carbie engine syndrome.
cyanboy
post Nov 26 2011, 01:54 AM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Nov 25 2011, 05:11 PM)
I think that's call dieseling. Carb related problem i think. I also have that problem sometimes, not sure why also.... hmm.gif
*
QUOTE(Codyx @ Nov 25 2011, 11:03 PM)
*raise hand*

that's why i off slowly >ON>Power>off...step by step
*
QUOTE(kuaLe_AGX @ Nov 25 2011, 11:06 PM)
same here. Some says might be carbie engine syndrome.
*
So the problem seemed normal... Only way to solve is perlahan-perlahan off... Dun act cool cepat-cepat turn off rolleyes.gif

From uncle wiki:
Potential causes

Dieseling can occur for several reasons:
1. Built-up carbon in the ignition chamber can glow red after the engine is off, providing a mechanism for igniting unburnt fuel. Such a thing can happen when the engine runs very rich, depositing unspent fuel and particles on the pistons and valves. Similarly, rough metal regions within the piston chamber can cause this same problem, since they can glow red. It has also been suggested that an improperly rated spark plug can retain heat and cause the same problem.
2. A carburetor that does not completely close can contribute to running once the engine is off, since the extra fuel and oxygen mixture can combust easily in the warm piston chamber. Similarly, hot vaporized oil gases from the engine crankcase can provide ample fuel for dieseling.
3. Incorrect timing.
4. An engine that runs too hot or too lean may produce an environment conducive to allowing unspent fuel to burn.
5. An idle speed that is too fast can leave the engine with too much angular momentum upon shutdown, raising the chances that the engine can turn over and burn more fuel and lock itself into a cycle of continuous running.

haiz... rclxub.gif
low yat 82
post Nov 26 2011, 09:00 AM

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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Nov 25 2011, 01:35 AM)
lame x jumpe  brows.gif


Added on November 25, 2011, 1:39 am
have ur fuel filter check and change
check whether its black and dirty anot
fuel filter clogged will have this syndrum
if a/c pump aka fuel pump kong the diagram inside tear out and cannot be fix
suspect u kena con liaw
anyway have it check to avoid this problem again
*
how does d ac pump / fuel pump look like a?? d ufo 1? how long need change a? i dun wan suddenly brake down on middle road ooo icon_question.gif

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 25 2011, 03:29 AM)
Sometimes LMST when off engine, the engine will die off then idle for 1 sec and gone off again... Is it tappet adjustment out is it?
*
errmm.... for my case its carb. happen to me for 2-3 years liao.. jus dat i dun care.. but this year i found solution.. u may try also..carb cleaner

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 26 2011, 01:54 AM)
So the problem seemed normal... Only way to solve is perlahan-perlahan off... Dun act cool cepat-cepat turn off rolleyes.gif

From uncle wiki:
Potential causes

Dieseling can occur for several reasons:
1. Built-up carbon in the ignition chamber can glow red after the engine is off, providing a mechanism for igniting unburnt fuel. Such a thing can happen when the engine runs very rich, depositing unspent fuel and particles on the pistons and valves. Similarly, rough metal regions within the piston chamber can cause this same problem, since they can glow red. It has also been suggested that an improperly rated spark plug can retain heat and cause the same problem.
2. A carburetor that does not completely close can contribute to running once the engine is off, since the extra fuel and oxygen mixture can combust easily in the warm piston chamber. Similarly, hot vaporized oil gases from the engine crankcase can provide ample fuel for dieseling.
3. Incorrect timing.
4. An engine that runs too hot or too lean may produce an environment conducive to allowing unspent fuel to burn.
5. An idle speed that is too fast can leave the engine with too much angular momentum upon shutdown, raising the chances that the engine can turn over and burn more fuel and lock itself into a cycle of continuous running.

haiz... rclxub.gif
*
most of d time for our saga is i think its cause by carbon built by carburetor gua. coz d prob will come back after 5k km.. so i need service everytime i change engine oil... if no change d gigil disease will come back slowly....
TSrozz_1291
post Nov 26 2011, 11:11 AM

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U can try to retard to distributor 1st. Loosen both bolt at the distributor's bracket ends, by facing the distributor adjust it anti-clockwise a little bit only and try it out. nod.gif


Rhadykall
post Nov 26 2011, 11:41 AM

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Hello guys. Just thought of sharing what my LMST looks like now for reference. Different members add in pics of how certain body kit will look like on our car instead of individual try and error which can prove to be costly at times. Special thanks to bro low yat 82 for recommending that I go look for raven for body kits. notworthy.gif

Front and back:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Better view of the EvoX type front hood on my LMST (and how low is the DAMD type front bumper):
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by Rhadykall: Nov 26 2011, 11:56 AM
low yat 82
post Nov 26 2011, 12:14 PM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Nov 26 2011, 11:41 AM)
Hello guys. Just thought of sharing what my LMST looks like now for reference. Different members add in pics of how certain body kit will look like on our car instead of individual try and error which can prove to be costly at times. Special thanks to bro low yat 82 for recommending that I go look for raven for body kits. notworthy.gif

Front and back:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Better view of the EvoX type front hood on my LMST (and how low is the DAMD type front bumper):
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
shoot! darn nice. d workmanship is nice right? d price is nice also. i even fix my kemek bumper there for rm130. i ask other place at pantai dalam they charge me rm200++

d bonnet also fiber? u also spray there? d spray quality is good. i regret spray myself..lol..
Rhadykall
post Nov 26 2011, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Nov 26 2011, 12:14 PM)
shoot! darn nice. d workmanship is nice right? d price is nice also. i even fix my kemek bumper there for rm130. i ask other place at pantai dalam they charge me rm200++

d bonnet also fiber? u also spray there? d spray quality is good. i regret spray myself..lol..
*
Yea bro. The body part workmanship and the paint job very good. The owner is also a very nice guy; if you want them to adjust this or that a bit he'll gladly attend to your requests. Yep, the bonnet is fiber as well.

If I had the extra cash I would've taken the option to spray the whole car as the price was very nice. But I wanted to install new full exhaust system from the extractor all the way to the back so have to cut short a bit on the paint job.
Notoriez
post Nov 26 2011, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 23 2011, 10:59 AM)
Problem:
When I let my car roll down slope around 10-20km/h and pull handbrake, the rear drum brake giving me sound also...

1. Is LMST stock brakes leading/trailing type or duo servo?
2. Does this means that drum brake punye pads juga worn out?
3. Will it be "out-of-shape" resulting higher cost?
4. Cost around how much... (I'm paying by cash btw,later tak cukup wang then mati)
*
Mine noisy also no problem... tongue.gif

It's because maybe im using the IMP Brake Shoes for Drum brakes..very the grippy but produces alot of dust (like brakepad) shakehead.gif so too noisy since there is no room for the dust to go..


Added on November 26, 2011, 12:36 pm
QUOTE(lyordson @ Nov 24 2011, 01:21 PM)
hello new tread. hello new problem.

my windscreen cracked. hit by a rock. kinda bad but still can see and drive. is Dr Cermin recomended? their price, workmanship ok? they said change a new screen is RM3xx. reasonable? or theres other workshop can do better?
*
Quite good thumbup.gif

I used their service and claim insurance rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by Notoriez: Nov 26 2011, 12:36 PM
Notoriez
post Nov 26 2011, 12:43 PM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Nov 26 2011, 11:41 AM)
Hello guys. Just thought of sharing what my LMST looks like now for reference. Different members add in pics of how certain body kit will look like on our car instead of individual try and error which can prove to be costly at times. Special thanks to bro low yat 82 for recommending that I go look for raven for body kits. notworthy.gif

Front and back:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Better view of the EvoX type front hood on my LMST (and how low is the DAMD type front bumper):
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
How much do you get the EVO X bonet for?

I was thinking of just getting the airscoop to let my carbie breath better brows.gif and in the same time cool down my engine bay.

Each degree (hotter) will cause @ least 2hp gone sad.gif
Peekab0o
post Nov 26 2011, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(Notoriez @ Nov 26 2011, 12:43 PM)
How much do you get the EVO X bonet for?

I was thinking of just getting the airscoop to let my carbie breath better brows.gif and in the same time cool down my engine bay.

Each degree (hotter) will cause @ least 2hp gone  sad.gif
*
Tak mao evo 3 bonnet fiber miaa like cipan de ah ? Cut off the inner frame + got air scoop + weight reduction brows.gif
Rhadykall
post Nov 26 2011, 12:49 PM

After 9 years only can modify
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QUOTE(Notoriez @ Nov 26 2011, 12:43 PM)
How much do you get the EVO X bonet for?

I was thinking of just getting the airscoop to let my carbie breath better brows.gif and in the same time cool down my engine bay.

Each degree (hotter) will cause @ least 2hp gone  sad.gif
*
Mine was RM360 including installation smile.gif
Peekab0o
post Nov 26 2011, 01:15 PM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Nov 26 2011, 12:49 PM)
Mine was RM360 including installation  smile.gif
*
Including painting of the bonnet ? One question... how about roadblock... passing thru roadblock with that fiber bonnet any problem ? From what i know jpj and police dont allow fiber bonnets cry.gif
Lowenkreuz
post Nov 26 2011, 01:20 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Nov 26 2011, 01:15 PM)
Including painting of the bonnet ? One question... how about roadblock... passing thru roadblock with that fiber bonnet any problem ? From what i know jpj and police dont allow fiber bonnets  cry.gif
*
geh? yakah? Y carbon fiber harder than steel not allow? walau........ shakehead.gif
oh yeah rhadykall, where u get that EVO X hood, sibeh nice wei!!! thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by Lowenkreuz: Nov 26 2011, 01:21 PM
Rhadykall
post Nov 26 2011, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Nov 26 2011, 01:15 PM)
Including painting of the bonnet ? One question... how about roadblock... passing thru roadblock with that fiber bonnet any problem ? From what i know jpj and police dont allow fiber bonnets  cry.gif
*
Nope, not including the paint job. I did major body kit installation so price of paint job is for everything - not so sure which part is how much for paint. As for roadblocks, I've yet to encounter one so far. I'm guessing the routes I use and the time I usually follow those route are the contributing factors. smile.gif
Lowenkreuz
post Nov 26 2011, 01:49 PM

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for those thinking of installing spoiler (including myself)
y not consider this?
http://youtu.be/mvfG_jEXosw

what u guys think? can be done here or not? xD
Rhadykall
post Nov 26 2011, 02:24 PM

After 9 years only can modify
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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Nov 26 2011, 01:20 PM)
geh? yakah? Y carbon fiber harder than steel not allow? walau........ shakehead.gif
oh yeah rhadykall, where u get that EVO X hood, sibeh nice wei!!! thumbup.gif
*
You can look for RAVEN CHONG here in LYN. Installation done at Cheras Batu 9 area.
JusticeDeserves
post Nov 26 2011, 04:29 PM

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Hey there..I have a Proton Iswara which is about 12 years old.. There is abit of aesthetic issues..The paint job is not nice anymore and the interior is still tolerable..Do you guys have any recomendations on place where i can do up the paint job and ketuk the indentions on the car?as well as a place where i have the option to do up the inside of the car example...the car seats,the cd player and speakers.. thanks guys
Notoriez
post Nov 26 2011, 05:38 PM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Nov 26 2011, 01:20 PM)
geh? yakah? Y carbon fiber harder than steel not allow? walau........ shakehead.gif
oh yeah rhadykall, where u get that EVO X hood, sibeh nice wei!!! thumbup.gif
*
Fiber only la...REAL carbon fiber wont be that cheap yawn.gif
streetglow
post Nov 26 2011, 06:10 PM

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all sifu sifu
my iswara the left door front the hinge feels like longgar aredi...when closing the door...nid to shut it with abit more strength...when goin on uneven road...will have to up n down (kik kik kouk kouk) sound....
can i noe wats wrong ?
n recommendation to solve this problem?
where n cost?
icon_question.gif
low yat 82
post Nov 26 2011, 06:49 PM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Nov 26 2011, 01:49 PM)
for those thinking of installing spoiler (including myself)
y not consider this?
http://youtu.be/mvfG_jEXosw

what u guys think? can be done here or not? xD
*
afaik, d usage of spoiler onli meaninful if u r hittin 200kmh n above. d rear spoiler is more to generatin downforce rather than function as air brake imho. d real brakin is d tyre n more downforce means more lekat on d road.. same concept wit aeroplane...
evoluzzion
post Nov 26 2011, 09:34 PM

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hye sid.. sory late reply.. haha..bz maa.. now have wife already... newly wedd... hehe... 2month already... thats why long time tk singgah LYN see u guys... im still with my 777... but my left front window prob.. cannot funtion.. i think the moto die already.. how much arr power window moto cost...? smile.gif hehe...
Peekab0o
post Nov 26 2011, 10:01 PM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Nov 26 2011, 01:20 PM)
geh? yakah? Y carbon fiber harder than steel not allow? walau........ shakehead.gif
oh yeah rhadykall, where u get that EVO X hood, sibeh nice wei!!! thumbup.gif
*
Those bodykits are FIBERGLASS... carbon fiber and fiberglass diff bang... brows.gif
Codyx
post Nov 26 2011, 10:14 PM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Nov 26 2011, 12:49 PM)
Mine was RM360 including installation  smile.gif
*
saya sini 300+ only wor blink.gif
Lowenkreuz
post Nov 26 2011, 11:16 PM

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hahahah, aiya in bolehland, stick carbon fiber sticker on fiber oso become carbon fiber wa. xD

This post has been edited by Lowenkreuz: Nov 26 2011, 11:17 PM
Rhadykall
post Nov 27 2011, 12:08 AM

After 9 years only can modify
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QUOTE(Codyx @ Nov 26 2011, 10:14 PM)
saya sini 300+ only wor blink.gif
*
Hahaha 360 not considered as 300+ also ka?
Codyx
post Nov 27 2011, 01:06 AM

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From: Rawang, Selayang, Kepong...


Last time i want to change wan...but thinking about risking of rain water shock circuit....i mod my cover a little bit 'open' for ventilation...no drilling.....hmmmmpph....

anyone here remove the stock hood bracket before? how>? 0.o?
JusticeDeserves
post Nov 27 2011, 02:19 AM

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Hey there..I have a Proton Iswara which is about 12 years old.. There is abit of aesthetic issues..The paint job is not nice anymore and the interior is still tolerable..Do you guys have any recomendations on place where i can do up the paint job and ketuk the indentions on the car?as well as a place where i have the option to do up the inside of the car example...the car seats,the cd player and speakers.. thanks guys
DSV4600
post Nov 27 2011, 02:44 AM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Nov 26 2011, 12:14 PM)
shoot! darn nice. d workmanship is nice right? d price is nice also. i even fix my kemek bumper there for rm130. i ask other place at pantai dalam they charge me rm200++

d bonnet also fiber? u also spray there? d spray quality is good. i regret spray myself..lol..
*
What the place name, address & who can we contact.
Please do share... The bodykit looks nice!
sinister_sid
post Nov 27 2011, 07:16 PM

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QUOTE(evoluzzion @ Nov 26 2011, 09:34 PM)
hye sid.. sory late reply.. haha..bz maa.. now have wife already... newly wedd... hehe... 2month already... thats why long time tk singgah LYN see u guys... im still with my 777... but my left front window prob.. cannot funtion.. i think the moto die already.. how much arr power window moto cost...? smile.gif hehe...
*
50 buck for the motor
can diy easily look around
basicly its remove the bottom window trim , remove window glass , then remove the scissor assemble
look around and its actually easy to do it
shoik la tu baru kahwin brows.gif
cyanboy
post Nov 28 2011, 12:40 AM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Nov 26 2011, 09:00 AM)
how does d ac pump / fuel pump look like a?? d ufo 1? how long need change a? i dun wan suddenly brake down on middle road ooo  icon_question.gif
errmm.... for my case its carb. happen to me for 2-3 years liao.. jus dat i dun care.. but this year i found solution.. u may try also..carb cleaner
most of d time for our saga is i think its cause by carbon built by carburetor gua. coz d prob will come back after 5k km.. so i need service everytime i change engine oil... if no change d gigil disease will come back slowly....
*
Ok, that sounded reasonable to happen on my 26k km car...

QUOTE(rozz_1291 @ Nov 26 2011, 11:11 AM)
U can try to retard to distributor 1st. Loosen both bolt at the distributor's bracket ends, by facing the distributor adjust it anti-clockwise a little bit only and try it out. nod.gif
*
OK.. will try both and see...
You mean distributor cap there?

Any place to wrap seats around pj/kl area except kedai abang?
Budget <RM500... Sudah pecah lubang this month my pocket

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Nov 28 2011, 01:29 AM
Peekab0o
post Nov 28 2011, 12:42 PM

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http://www.mudah.my/Apexi+ekzos+jasma+japan-12586989.htm

Something to share today... condition looks good.. importantly is the inlet .... 2" kinda rare drool.gif




This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Nov 28 2011, 12:42 PM
Rhadykall
post Nov 28 2011, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Nov 27 2011, 02:44 AM)
What the place name, address & who can we contact.
Please do share... The bodykit looks nice!
*
Front bumper: DAMD
Front hood: Evo X
Side skirt: DAMD
Rear bumper: Super touring
Spoiler: Mugen DC2

Search for LYN user name RAVEN CHONG
lyordson
post Nov 28 2011, 07:48 PM

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guys, if change block need to change wiring oso one meh? canot use back own wiring?
Peekab0o
post Nov 28 2011, 08:25 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Nov 28 2011, 07:48 PM)
guys, if change block need to change wiring oso one meh? canot use back own wiring?
*
Usually people change clutch , flywheel . Otherwise no need to change anything else...

Kasi put in 1.6 clutch and super touring flywheel than veli nais oledi ur car...

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Nov 28 2011, 08:26 PM
lyordson
post Nov 28 2011, 09:17 PM

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im refering to wiring. peekaboo. did u change the wiring when u swap the block? coz a friend of mine said need to change. wtf?

This post has been edited by lyordson: Nov 28 2011, 09:52 PM
poolcarpet
post Nov 28 2011, 10:00 PM

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For cd player go check out brothers in kelana jaya. They have branded jvc kenwood cd mp3 players for rm200 or so. Cheap. For the others not sure.... Painting i heard quite expensive these days about 1.5 k to 2 k above... Car seat someone in this formoffering the service located in selayang. Or try central car cushion in kepong. Should be around 1 k +- for wrapping front and rear seat.

QUOTE(JusticeDeserves @ Nov 27 2011, 02:19 AM)
Hey there..I have a Proton Iswara which is about 12 years old.. There is abit of aesthetic issues..The paint job is not nice anymore and the interior is still tolerable..Do you guys have any recomendations on place where i can do up the paint job and ketuk the indentions on the car?as well as a place where i have the option to do up the inside of the car example...the car seats,the cd player and speakers.. thanks guys
*
peachmonkey
post Nov 28 2011, 10:01 PM

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Hi sifu's!

Need some advice. I got my carburetor tuned by the mechanics at Proton. They managed to set my RPM for both Idle with air/con and Idle without a/con to around 900RPM (definitely less than 1000RPM). However the next morning when I started my engine I found the RPM to be very low (around 500RPM). Engine was shaking bad and almost like want to die. Before this whenever I cold start in the morning, the RPM would go to 1000RPM and stay there until engine warmed up.

What could be the problem? Can I do it myself or should I bring it back to the mechanic?

Really appreciate advice. Thank you in advance.
Rhadykall
post Nov 28 2011, 10:31 PM

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I need to let go of my original LMST front bumper and spoiler. Any idea on the price I should put on each? Both are black. Both are in good condition.
Peekab0o
post Nov 28 2011, 10:53 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Nov 28 2011, 09:17 PM)
im refering to wiring. peekaboo. did u change the wiring when u swap the block? coz a friend of mine said need to change. wtf?
*
No need ... and no i didnt change juz swap block will do change to 1.6 clutch to handle the 1.5 power better and new flywheel get super touring one... pickup sure feels good ..

QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Nov 28 2011, 10:01 PM)
Hi sifu's!

Need some advice. I got my carburetor tuned by the mechanics at Proton. They managed to set my RPM for both Idle with air/con and Idle without a/con to around 900RPM (definitely less than 1000RPM). However the next morning when I started my engine I found the RPM to be very low (around 500RPM). Engine was shaking bad and almost like want to die. Before this whenever I cold start in the morning, the RPM would go to 1000RPM and stay there until engine warmed up.

What could be the problem? Can I do it myself or should I bring it back to the mechanic?

Really appreciate advice. Thank you in advance.
*
user posted image


Saw the pic above there ? Look at that yellow arrow label... in my place here Johor sparepart shop , halfcut shops they call it carburetor vacuumn switch ... i dont know what they call it in KL ... probably gold ufo dish for carb or something... usually that spoils then ur idle no mather how u adjust the screw it still will drop till 500 rpm like that and jerk badly...

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Nov 28 2011, 10:56 PM
fleekreturn
post Nov 28 2011, 11:21 PM

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Where can we find the small vacum filter ah? Sparepart got?
lyordson
post Nov 29 2011, 12:31 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Nov 28 2011, 10:53 PM)
No need ... and no i didnt change juz swap block will do change to 1.6 clutch to handle the 1.5 power better and new flywheel get super touring one... pickup sure feels good ..
user posted image
Saw the pic above there ?  Look at that yellow arrow label... in my place here Johor sparepart shop , halfcut shops they call it carburetor vacuumn switch ... i dont know what they call it in KL ... probably gold ufo dish for carb or something... usually that spoils then ur idle no mather how u adjust the screw it still will drop till 500 rpm like that and jerk badly...
*
ok thanks. and u can stop mentioning bout the clutch & ST flywheel. =.=
dreggy
post Nov 29 2011, 01:25 AM

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Need some help from sifus here, my saga lmst can smell exhaust smell inside the car when driving time, don t know from where leaking, fully changed the aircond system and also checked the whole exhaust system, but still can smell exhaust smell with in the car when driving. anyone with similar problems? sad.gif need help, worried i get knocked out unconsciously when driving then accident for sure :'(

cyanboy
post Nov 29 2011, 01:40 AM

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QUOTE(dreggy @ Nov 29 2011, 01:25 AM)
Need some help from sifus here, my saga lmst can smell exhaust smell inside the car when driving time, don t know from where leaking, fully changed the aircond system and also checked the whole exhaust system, but still can smell exhaust smell with in the car when driving. anyone with similar problems? sad.gif need help, worried i get knocked out unconsciously when driving then accident for sure :'(
*
I thought it's famous for LMST?
1. Dun touch air distributor knob.
2. Dun touch air intake knob.

Once touch these two and voila! Time to go back to P1 centre and adjust nod.gif

You can try refer to this thread of V24, there's a member that cover the hole for external air intake into the cabin.

But by doing so will disable the function of the air intake knob.

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1914856/+1737
DaBestOne
post Nov 29 2011, 01:24 PM

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From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.



QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Nov 28 2011, 12:42 PM)
http://www.mudah.my/Apexi+ekzos+jasma+japan-12586989.htm

Something to share today... condition looks good.. importantly is the inlet .... 2" kinda rare  drool.gif
*
Nice one rclxms.gif
shannonlim
post Nov 29 2011, 04:29 PM

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hi sifus..
when i press accelerator, and when i let go accelerator.. got a sound "tak"
sometimes when road is rough, also will have that same sound.. like coming from the driver side front area..
anybody experience this b4?

Lowenkreuz
post Nov 29 2011, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Nov 28 2011, 10:31 PM)
I need to let go of my original LMST front bumper and spoiler. Any idea on the price I should put on each? Both are black. Both are in good condition.
*
how much for each? how about grill, got let go? is it the newer batch ver. punya grill?
Rhadykall
post Nov 29 2011, 06:45 PM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Nov 29 2011, 06:33 PM)
how much for each? how about grill, got let go? is it the newer batch ver. punya grill?
*
Haven't set price because never researched market price. Offer win-win price sure I consider - need to get rid anyway.

Same as this only black in colour.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Bumper and grill currently with me in Equine Seri Kembangan area. Oh yea the grill no more the proton badge holder though lol tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Rhadykall: Nov 29 2011, 06:46 PM
Lowenkreuz
post Nov 30 2011, 07:57 AM

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grill no badge holder? so means is X X X X X mesh all the way??
pm me price? include shipment to sarawak tongue.gif
Rhadykall
post Nov 30 2011, 08:44 AM

After 9 years only can modify
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From: Mother Russia!


QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Nov 30 2011, 07:57 AM)
grill no badge holder? so means is X X X X X mesh all the way??
pm me price? include shipment to sarawak tongue.gif
*
got the place to screw (lol) your badge in the middle. i also dont know how to describe it. i dont know how to do postage la bro for these big stuffs lol. only cod sad.gif
Lowenkreuz
post Nov 30 2011, 10:58 AM

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oh.... nvm then thanks bro. xD

dakwan5555
post Nov 30 2011, 03:35 PM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Nov 26 2011, 11:41 AM)

Better view of the EvoX type front hood on my LMST (and how low is the DAMD type front bumper):
user posted image
The whole front bonnet is fiber or just rivet on? rclxms.gif thinking of changing my bonnet too smile.gif
cyanboy
post Nov 30 2011, 07:52 PM

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Turbo timer Function:
1. Automatic calculation of the necessary amount of after idling time
2. Display estimate A/F ratio
3. Display O2 sensor voltage
4. Display RICH or LEAN via 2 LED
5. Display battery voltage
6. Engine timing shutdown
7. Time
* Injection – Function 1,2,3,4,5,6,7
* Carburetors - Function 5, 6, 7 only
So if I install this only can get 3 function only?
Feeling like installing it... Is the Brother's Apexi Turbo Timer Pen type genuine ah? RM30 got dy leh...
Peekab0o
post Nov 30 2011, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 30 2011, 07:52 PM)
Turbo timer Function:
1. Automatic calculation of the necessary amount of after idling time
2. Display estimate A/F ratio
3. Display O2 sensor voltage
4. Display RICH or LEAN via 2 LED
5. Display battery voltage
6. Engine timing shutdown
7. Time
* Injection – Function 1,2,3,4,5,6,7
* Carburetors - Function 5, 6, 7 only
So if I install this only can get 3 function only?
Feeling like installing it... Is the Brother's Apexi Turbo Timer Pen type genuine ah? RM30 got dy leh...
*
Yes 5,6,7 im using ... Yea cheap only.. i install for purpose of monitoring my Battery... Fake of course... Original cant be that price...
cyanboy
post Nov 30 2011, 11:39 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Nov 30 2011, 11:21 PM)
Yes 5,6,7 im using ... Yea cheap only.. i install for purpose of monitoring my Battery... Fake of course... Original cant be that price...
*
Oh... I actually wanted the clock and battery voltage only... The timing engine to off one we can use? Incompatible with our stock alarm right?
sinister_sid
post Dec 1 2011, 01:10 AM

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QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Nov 28 2011, 10:01 PM)
Hi sifu's!

Need some advice. I got my carburetor tuned by the mechanics at Proton. They managed to set my RPM for both Idle with air/con and Idle without a/con to around 900RPM (definitely less than 1000RPM). However the next morning when I started my engine I found the RPM to be very low (around 500RPM). Engine was shaking bad and almost like want to die. Before this whenever I cold start in the morning, the RPM would go to 1000RPM and stay there until engine warmed up.

What could be the problem? Can I do it myself or should I bring it back to the mechanic?

Really appreciate advice. Thank you in advance.
*
autochoke condemm
Peekab0o
post Dec 1 2011, 07:54 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 30 2011, 11:39 PM)
Oh... I actually wanted the clock and battery voltage only... The timing engine to off one we can use? Incompatible with our stock alarm right?
*
huh? Theres no clock in my apexi pen type one.. only battery voltage ...and the time option at the meter there is to turn off engine one... Juz set to 0.00 secs... otherwise default if not mistaken is 30 seconds... after u turn off ur car key ur car engine will only be turned off after 30 secs...
stasis21
post Dec 1 2011, 10:05 AM

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Hi guyz, Exams finally over cool2.gif can chill here now laugh.gif

V25 thumbup.gif

QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Nov 26 2011, 11:41 AM)
Front and back:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

How much for the DC2 spoiler, been looking for that one drool.gif

QUOTE(dreggy @ Nov 29 2011, 01:25 AM)
Need some help from sifus here, my saga lmst can smell exhaust smell inside the car when driving time, don t know from where leaking, fully changed the aircond system and also checked the whole exhaust system, but still can smell exhaust smell with in the car when driving. anyone with similar problems? sad.gif need help, worried i get knocked out unconsciously when driving then accident for sure :'(
*
I got same problem, got gas/petrol smell rclxub.gif
my dad said something died in the aircon shocking.gif doh.gif

This post has been edited by stasis21: Dec 1 2011, 02:37 PM
DaBestOne
post Dec 1 2011, 02:01 PM

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QUOTE(dakwan5555 @ Nov 30 2011, 03:35 PM)
The whole front bonnet is fiber or just rivet on? rclxms.gif thinking of changing my bonnet too smile.gif
*
omg the bumper so damn low.... how to get over bump? sure kena right? hmm.gif
dakwan5555
post Dec 1 2011, 02:28 PM

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QUOTE(stasis21 @ Dec 1 2011, 10:05 AM)
Hi guyz, Exams finally over  cool2.gif can chill here now  laugh.gif

V25  thumbup.gif
How much for the DC2 spoiler, been looking for that one  drool.gif
I got same problem, my dad said something died in the aircon  shocking.gif  doh.gif
*
Check out the internal aircon filter blower behind the glovebox area...... sometimes it is very dirty sad.gif
cyanboy
post Dec 1 2011, 02:43 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 1 2011, 07:54 AM)
huh? Theres no clock in my apexi pen type one.. only battery voltage ...and the time option at the meter there is to turn off engine one... Juz set to 0.00 secs... otherwise default if not mistaken is 30 seconds... after u turn off ur car key ur car engine will only be turned off after 30 secs...
*
Oh... Like that then maybe opting for other with clock one...
Just got poisoned from "Practical Mods/Add-ons For Sagas/Iswaras, Come share what you have done" forum...
Thinking of installing vacuum meter... Since it's quite simple to DIY. Brand like Monza/Autogauge from kedai brother again fake ah? rclxub.gif

QUOTE(dakwan5555 @ Dec 1 2011, 02:28 PM)
Check out the internal aircon filter blower behind the glovebox area...... sometimes it is very dirty sad.gif
*
U mean this one?
http://z4.invisionfree.com/Saga_Iswara_Clu...opic=14464&st=0

EDIT: Oil pressure meter can DIY easily? Didn't have guides over here..

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 1 2011, 03:01 PM
peachmonkey
post Dec 1 2011, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Dec 1 2011, 01:10 AM)
autochoke condemm
*
How can I confirm that its the autochoke that is spoil? Went to another mechanic today and he increased my idle RPM to about 1200RPM. He said to try to start tomorrow morning (cold start) and see if the RPM is still at 500RPM.

BTW, which is the autochoke for the car? If the vacuum hose is 'sumbat' can it cause this problem?
poolcarpet
post Dec 1 2011, 10:04 PM

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same like mine... autochoke gone case. easy to tell. when you start in the morning, rpm will be about 500-600 with aircond off. after driving a while and for rest of the day, rpm will be around 800-1000.

autochoke should be the long thing with a spring, visible if you stand on driver side looking at the engine, directly below the air filter cover.


QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Dec 1 2011, 09:13 PM)
How can I confirm that its the autochoke that is spoil? Went to another mechanic today and he increased my idle RPM to about 1200RPM. He said to try to start tomorrow morning (cold start) and see if the RPM is still at 500RPM.

BTW, which is the autochoke for the car? If the vacuum hose is 'sumbat' can it cause this problem?
*
dakwan5555
post Dec 1 2011, 10:42 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 1 2011, 02:43 PM)
This the blower
user posted image

this is from a dirty LMST blower
user posted image

Time to cleans up! biggrin.gif Hehehe

cyanboy
post Dec 2 2011, 12:34 AM

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QUOTE(dakwan5555 @ Dec 1 2011, 10:42 PM)
This the blower
user posted image

this is from a dirty LMST blower
user posted image

Time to cleans up! biggrin.gif Hehehe
*
Ok thanks. Any idea of recommended chop shop near pj/kl?

Will be finding gauges, CAI or even other compatible stuffs...
fangcheng
post Dec 2 2011, 02:28 PM

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hi,

anyone know where to get proton iswara aeroback rear bumper 2 red color reflector? mine stole by other ppl..

and anyone paint only for the grey color plastic all around the car before?how much?thinking to paint it since become grey white color.. smile.gif

thx
poolcarpet
post Dec 2 2011, 02:31 PM

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this one?
http://www.lelong.com.my/iswara-aeroback-r...0-12-Sale-P.htm

although this seems to be entire set, maybe can find just the bottom part from spare part shop?

I also want to self DIY repaint the plastic bumper part, I totally know what you mean when you say grey white color smile.gif but never got round to try it yet... Probably standard automotive spray paint dove or DPI brand should work?


QUOTE(fangcheng @ Dec 2 2011, 02:28 PM)
hi,

anyone know where to get proton iswara aeroback rear bumper 2 red color reflector? mine stole by other ppl..

and anyone paint only for the grey color plastic all around the car before?how much?thinking to paint it since become grey white color.. smile.gif

thx
*
fangcheng
post Dec 2 2011, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 2 2011, 02:31 PM)
this one?
http://www.lelong.com.my/iswara-aeroback-r...0-12-Sale-P.htm

although this seems to be entire set, maybe can find just the bottom part from spare part shop?

I also want to self DIY repaint the plastic bumper part, I totally know what you mean when you say grey white color smile.gif but never got round to try it yet... Probably standard automotive spray paint dove or DPI brand should work?
*
yup..i wan the bottom one..but their shop at kelantan... sweat.gif where can get it around kl?

let the pros do the paint job..since they will have warranty of it also biggrin.gif but how much is it? anyone done it before?


peachmonkey
post Dec 2 2011, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 1 2011, 10:04 PM)
same like mine... autochoke gone case. easy to tell. when you start in the morning, rpm will be about 500-600 with aircond off. after driving a while and for rest of the day, rpm will be around 800-1000.

autochoke should be the long thing with a spring, visible if you stand on driver side looking at the engine, directly below the air filter cover.
*
Hrmm...I'll bring it over to Proton SC tomorrow to ask them to check it out. Problem is if it is really the auto-choke that is condemn the SC doesn't keep stock (need to order from KK). Hopefully the spare part shop here got the item laa sad.gif
mH3nG
post Dec 3 2011, 11:26 AM

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Anyone using HID lights?
I find that the lights on my car's stock headlights are quite dim compared to my friend's HID in his Vios.
lyordson
post Dec 3 2011, 12:52 PM

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anyone uses arospeed/utr lighten crankpulley here?
Codyx
post Dec 3 2011, 01:06 PM

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From: Rawang, Selayang, Kepong...


Where can get stock LMST floor mat? the maggi one? i need the driver side only

thanks
cyanboy
post Dec 3 2011, 03:17 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 3 2011, 01:06 PM)
Where can get stock LMST floor mat? the maggi one? i need the driver side only

thanks
*
Must be stock? Try proton parts stockist near your area... If there dun have maybe they can check the Glenmarie Parts Centre... If Glenmarie also dun have means need to wait for stock/not in production/no such thing inside their spare parts booklet.

But sometimes can try some parts stockist, they might have stock for "old"/"weird"/"loooong time not in production already" stuffs. Cause I just got a saga ori CAI from a stockist, Glenmarie not in production dy.
Notoriez
post Dec 3 2011, 05:58 PM

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QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Nov 28 2011, 10:01 PM)
Hi sifu's!

Need some advice. I got my carburetor tuned by the mechanics at Proton. They managed to set my RPM for both Idle with air/con and Idle without a/con to around 900RPM (definitely less than 1000RPM). However the next morning when I started my engine I found the RPM to be very low (around 500RPM). Engine was shaking bad and almost like want to die. Before this whenever I cold start in the morning, the RPM would go to 1000RPM and stay there until engine warmed up.

What could be the problem? Can I do it myself or should I bring it back to the mechanic?

Really appreciate advice. Thank you in advance.
*
Your autochoke needs some 'love'
ILikePie
post Dec 3 2011, 07:40 PM

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DRL on LMST nice or not? Plan to install. Any foglamp that can fit the bumper shape other than myvi? brows.gif
Lowenkreuz
post Dec 3 2011, 07:58 PM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 3 2011, 07:40 PM)
DRL on LMST nice or not? Plan to install. Any foglamp that can fit the bumper shape other than myvi? brows.gif
*
I seconded this! rclxms.gif

Oh and I got poisoned by this grille. any ideas on how to get them?
I got confused actually. This grill is Fiore or Mirage? rclxub.gif rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by Lowenkreuz: Dec 3 2011, 07:59 PM


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cyanboy
post Dec 4 2011, 01:24 AM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 3 2011, 07:40 PM)
DRL on LMST nice or not? Plan to install. Any foglamp that can fit the bumper shape other than myvi? brows.gif
*
DRL? My cheapo DRL less than RM10:
Night time:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Day time:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Normal DRL should be a lot brighter than this...

For foglamp i'm trying to get the MyVi second version one... Looks more fit, more expensive, but haven't try yet...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Now pocket bakar dah... Just got a cheapo vacuum meter... Dunno can use or not...

EDIT: Added spoiler to the post...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 4 2011, 01:26 AM
ILikePie
post Dec 4 2011, 01:55 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 4 2011, 01:24 AM)
DRL? My cheapo DRL less than RM10:
Night time:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Day time:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Normal DRL should be a lot brighter than this...

For foglamp i'm trying to get the MyVi second version one... Looks more fit, more expensive, but haven't try yet...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Now pocket bakar dah... Just got a cheapo vacuum meter... Dunno can use or not...

EDIT: Added spoiler to the post...
*
Very gooding brows.gif
SO cheap? Less than RM10? ohmy.gif
Any separate switch for the DRL?
kanada242
post Dec 4 2011, 01:48 PM

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Hey guys, my friend (iswara aeroback) and I (iswara sedan) are looking for chop shops/kedai potong to buy some parts for our cars eg:front bumper, back bonnet, doors, interior parts... you guys know of any cheap and good places in the Klang Valley/Selangor area to go?

Thanks biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by kanada242: Dec 4 2011, 01:53 PM
cyanboy
post Dec 4 2011, 07:53 PM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 4 2011, 01:55 AM)
Very gooding brows.gif
SO cheap? Less than RM10? ohmy.gif
Any separate switch for the DRL?
*
Kedai abang... They have RM10, RM20, RM30... RM150 punye DRL...
RM10 punye thin wiring, no switch.
RM150 punye use thick cables. But also no switch...
If buy expensive punye can ask for best price... Just realised exp items can nego there...
I tap from radio fuse... Together with my vacuum gauge lighting.

My vacuum meter showed 62 when idle (no a/c, no light) and 58 when heavy load (a/c+light)
So it is not calibrated properly right?

QUOTE(kanada242 @ Dec 4 2011, 01:48 PM)
Hey guys, my friend (iswara aeroback) and I (iswara sedan) are looking for chop shops/kedai potong to buy some parts for our cars eg:front bumper, back bonnet, doors, interior parts... you guys know of any cheap and good places in the Klang Valley/Selangor area to go?

Thanks biggrin.gif
*
Second that... Want to know also...
dakwan5555
post Dec 4 2011, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 3 2011, 12:52 PM)
anyone uses arospeed/utr lighten crankpulley here?
*
mine arospeed cam pulley and UTR crank... why bro?
ILikePie
post Dec 4 2011, 09:41 PM

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Heh. Thanks cyanboy. Your pic helped me with DRL positioning. Confirm will do for my LMST soon brows.gif
peachmonkey
post Dec 4 2011, 10:30 PM

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QUOTE(Notoriez @ Dec 3 2011, 05:58 PM)
Your autochoke needs some 'love'
*
Sent it to Proton SC. The mechanic did something on my carburetor and now the cold idling problem is gone. Started my car this morning and it idled to about 1000RPM during cold start biggrin.gif

Anyway, was wondering if any of the sifu's here have changed the absorbers for LMST Iswara? What type is recommended? The stock ones are a little soft especially on the bumpy roads here in Labuan doh.gif
Should I use softer shocks or stiffer ones? Or should I look into changing the springs instead?
I don't want to lower my car (want to maintain the current ride height tongue.gif)
dakwan5555
post Dec 4 2011, 11:34 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 2 2011, 12:34 AM)
Ok thanks. Any idea of recommended chop shop near pj/kl?

Will be finding gauges, CAI or even other compatible stuffs...
*
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Hopefully this will help you smile.gif
cyanboy
post Dec 4 2011, 11:36 PM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 4 2011, 09:41 PM)
Heh. Thanks cyanboy. Your pic helped me with DRL positioning. Confirm will do for my LMST soon brows.gif
*
If you think my DRL are both slightly out of position, its the number plate problem... The fella before me dunno how to stick number plate on the CENTRE of the bumper...

Actually after consulting my few friends when i'm installing DRL, if put beside or under number plate then the "car teeth" not so nice. I'm putting my DRL there instead of sides because need to make way for MyVi second version fog lamp on the bumper sides...

Officially sudah kena poison brows.gif

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 4 2011, 11:37 PM
DSV4600
post Dec 4 2011, 11:50 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 4 2011, 11:36 PM)
If you think my DRL are both slightly out of position, its the number plate problem... The fella before me dunno how to stick number plate on the CENTRE of the bumper...

Actually after consulting my few friends when i'm installing DRL, if put beside or under number plate then the "car teeth" not so nice. I'm putting my DRL there instead of sides because need to make way for MyVi second version fog lamp on the bumper sides...

Officially sudah kena poison brows.gif
*
Bro, can you share pictures after you pasang the MyVi 2nd version fog lamps?
I'm interested to see if can perfect fit a not...
ILikePie
post Dec 5 2011, 12:09 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 4 2011, 11:36 PM)
If you think my DRL are both slightly out of position, its the number plate problem... The fella before me dunno how to stick number plate on the CENTRE of the bumper...

Actually after consulting my few friends when i'm installing DRL, if put beside or under number plate then the "car teeth" not so nice. I'm putting my DRL there instead of sides because need to make way for MyVi second version fog lamp on the bumper sides...

Officially sudah kena poison brows.gif
*
Don't forget post poison. I already kena DRL poison brows.gif
cyanboy
post Dec 5 2011, 03:44 PM

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QUOTE(dakwan5555 @ Dec 4 2011, 11:34 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Hopefully this will help you smile.gif
*
THANKS! That really helps... Now got chance to turn few more second hand shops more upside down...


QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Dec 4 2011, 11:50 PM)
Bro, can you share pictures after you pasang the MyVi 2nd version fog lamps?
I'm interested to see if can perfect fit a not...
*
QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 5 2011, 12:09 AM)
Don't forget post poison. I already kena DRL poison brows.gif
*
I will post, dun worry... But kena tunggu lama lor...
Cause the imitation MyVi 2nd gen fog light casing itself cost RM150+, and the wiring about RM50+... If first gen imitation can get RM150 including wiring...
Maybe going to few chop shop and see can get cheap one or not...
I'm just a student... Waiting for my part time salary then kasi poison this thread kau kau brows.gif

EDIT: Check out my siggy for current mod...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 5 2011, 03:48 PM
lyordson
post Dec 5 2011, 04:26 PM

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QUOTE(dakwan5555 @ Dec 4 2011, 09:31 PM)
mine arospeed cam pulley and UTR crank... why bro?
*
just want to compare both. which is better? xD
FidelisGVR
post Dec 5 2011, 04:33 PM

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guys, wanna ask: proton service centers nationwide are still offering free rear safety belt installations?

thanks in advance!
Peekab0o
post Dec 5 2011, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 5 2011, 04:26 PM)
just want to compare both. which is better? xD
*
Jasma . Cheap and Cheerful .
ILikePie
post Dec 5 2011, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 5 2011, 03:44 PM)
THANKS! That really helps... Now got chance to turn few more second hand shops more upside down...
I will post, dun worry... But kena tunggu lama lor...
Cause the imitation MyVi 2nd gen fog light casing itself cost RM150+, and the wiring about RM50+... If first gen imitation can get RM150 including wiring...
Maybe going to few chop shop and see can get cheap one or not...
I'm just a student... Waiting for my part time salary then kasi poison this thread kau kau  brows.gif

EDIT: Check out my siggy for current mod...
*
Regret clicking your blog la. Now got slight urge to find mudguard and pedals too tongue.gif

This post has been edited by ILikePie: Dec 5 2011, 09:36 PM
low yat 82
post Dec 5 2011, 11:11 PM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 5 2011, 09:36 PM)
Regret clicking your blog la. Now got slight urge to find mudguard and pedals too tongue.gif
*
lol! rclxms.gif


lyordson
post Dec 5 2011, 11:17 PM

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actualy i still prefer it titled 'Still running strong as seen on the road' =D
cyanboy
post Dec 6 2011, 12:16 AM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 5 2011, 09:36 PM)
Regret clicking your blog la. Now got slight urge to find mudguard and pedals too tongue.gif
*
Slight urge only... Still ok... haha...
Din kena so much poison yet brows.gif

sinister_sid
post Dec 6 2011, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Dec 3 2011, 07:58 PM)
I seconded this! rclxms.gif

Oh and I got poisoned by this grille. any ideas on how to get them?
I got confused actually. This grill is Fiore or Mirage? rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif
*
that 1 is fiore grill sodok in local language
kinda expensive for 1
there fibre alternative whistling.gif
Lowenkreuz
post Dec 6 2011, 08:27 AM

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fiber not expensive right? but will i get the exact dimension? cuz i abit not trust custom jobs than factory made lah. Hmmmm but see first. smile.gif
cyanboy
post Dec 6 2011, 10:23 AM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Dec 6 2011, 08:27 AM)
fiber not expensive right? but will i get the exact dimension? cuz i abit not trust custom jobs than factory made lah. Hmmmm but see first. smile.gif
*
Actually is fibre that bad compared to PU?

Just done insuflex on my bonnet... Confirm got difference in noise... Engine noise now more less from cabin dy... Love it!
DaBestOne
post Dec 6 2011, 02:30 PM

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From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.



QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 6 2011, 10:23 AM)
Actually is fibre that bad compared to PU?

Just done insuflex on my bonnet... Confirm got difference in noise... Engine noise now more less from cabin dy... Love it!
*
Fiber is easier to crack while PU is more flexible... that's what i understand la hmm.gif
low yat 82
post Dec 6 2011, 03:06 PM

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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Dec 6 2011, 02:30 PM)
Fiber is easier to crack while PU is more flexible... that's what i understand la hmm.gif
*
fiber easy to repair, PU cannot~~...

fiber cannot absorb force, PU can..

fiber can easily custom make if got mould, PU go kilang produce better..lol
dakwan5555
post Dec 6 2011, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 5 2011, 04:26 PM)
just want to compare both. which is better? xD
*
I belief all is off the same quality and made from the same material (hardened aluminium aloi)

Cikgu Bob from SIC on Jasma LCP
user posted image

I belief Cipan Supercas is on Arospeed LCP (sorry no pic sad.gif )

My UTR
user posted image

So just take your pick smile.gif


Added on December 6, 2011, 4:10 pm
QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 6 2011, 03:06 PM)
fiber easy to repair, PU cannot~~...

fiber cannot absorb force, PU can..

fiber can easily custom make if got mould, PU go kilang produce better..lol
*
For a grill sodok..... the original PU/plastic is considered a rare items and MUST be mod to fix to your iswara/lmst headlamp..... the ori price is starting at RM 450 (that if you can find it first@very rare)...... Grill Sodok of fiber material is around RM 150-200 only and can be refiber back after you modified it... so the choice is yours smile.gif


Added on December 6, 2011, 4:12 pm
QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 5 2011, 03:44 PM)
THANKS! That really helps... Now got chance to turn few more second hand shops more upside down...
URW bro..... Glad to be of help smile.gif

This post has been edited by dakwan5555: Dec 6 2011, 04:12 PM
low yat 82
post Dec 6 2011, 04:24 PM

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QUOTE(dakwan5555 @ Dec 6 2011, 03:36 PM)
I belief all is off the same quality and made from the same material (hardened aluminium aloi)

Cikgu Bob from SIC on Jasma LCP
user posted image

I belief Cipan Supercas is on Arospeed LCP (sorry no pic sad.gif )

My UTR
user posted image

So just take your pick smile.gif


Added on December 6, 2011, 4:10 pm

For a grill sodok..... the original PU/plastic is considered a rare items and MUST be mod to fix to your iswara/lmst headlamp..... the ori price is starting at RM 450 (that if you can find it first@very rare)...... Grill Sodok of fiber material is around RM 150-200 only and can be refiber back after you modified it... so the choice is yours smile.gif


Added on December 6, 2011, 4:12 pm

URW bro..... Glad to be of help smile.gif
*
yalo..vry expensiv n rare icon_question.gif icon_question.gif

eh,d LCP u install at ea autoworks a? mine also UTR...lol.. recommend to upgrade d extractor instead la... LCP for me, not much improvement also..lol



my ngk blue spark plug cable(R8) arrive... lol.. wonder wats d different this 1 wit ngk power cable (R9) hmm.gif
R9 cannot find at amazon...zzz
Attached Image
Attached Image

This post has been edited by low yat 82: Dec 6 2011, 04:25 PM
dakwan5555
post Dec 6 2011, 05:12 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 6 2011, 04:24 PM)
yalo..vry expensiv n rare  icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif

eh,d LCP u install at ea autoworks a? mine also UTR...lol.. recommend to upgrade d extractor instead la... LCP for me, not much improvement also..lol
my ngk blue spark plug cable(R8) arrive... lol.. wonder wats d different this 1 wit ngk power cable (R9)  hmm.gif 
R9 cannot find at amazon...zzz
No lah bro... no money so, DIY install only...
LCP + adjustable cam pulley + racing camshaft = Make 4g13 LMST can tapaw VIOS..... smile.gif

I'm trying to look into COP, no more plug cable tongue.gif Hehehe

This post has been edited by dakwan5555: Dec 6 2011, 05:13 PM
Peekab0o
post Dec 6 2011, 07:27 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 6 2011, 04:24 PM)
yalo..vry expensiv n rare  icon_question.gif  icon_question.gif

eh,d LCP u install at ea autoworks a? mine also UTR...lol.. recommend to upgrade d extractor instead la... LCP for me, not much improvement also..lol
my ngk blue spark plug cable(R8) arrive... lol.. wonder wats d different this 1 wit ngk power cable (R9)  hmm.gif 
R9 cannot find at amazon...zzz
Attached Image
Attached Image
*
HUAHHHHH!!! brows.gif brows.gif brows.gif Finally after dam long wait... ~
ILikePie
post Dec 6 2011, 08:07 PM

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Sifus, what type of bulb should I buy? I want bright, can shoot wide and also far range whether in rain or not but at the same time not glaring to other drivers/pedestrians hmm.gif
fleekreturn
post Dec 6 2011, 08:49 PM

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How much for that NGK R8? Where u buy?
Rhadykall
post Dec 6 2011, 09:11 PM

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Lmst headlamp bulb is h4 right? What about rear?
cyanboy
post Dec 6 2011, 11:50 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 6 2011, 03:06 PM)
fiber easy to repair, PU cannot~~...

fiber cannot absorb force, PU can..

fiber can easily custom make if got mould, PU go kilang produce better..lol
*
Ok... SO our stock bumper is PU?

My vacuum gauge shows 21.3 when air con kicks in and 24.4 when idle... Ignition timing too advance right?
How to adjust ah?

I read some thread need timing light one.. What is it? How to use?

Or just go sc gao tim?
Recommended sc anyone? Going there for 30k km service.

Blacklisted Senaxis, RM90 for brake pads!!!

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 6 2011, 11:51 PM
Lowenkreuz
post Dec 7 2011, 12:23 AM

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QUOTE(dakwan5555 @ Dec 6 2011, 03:36 PM)

Added on December 6, 2011, 4:10 pm

For a grill sodok..... the original PU/plastic is considered a rare items and MUST be mod to fix to your iswara/lmst headlamp..... the ori price is starting at RM 450 (that if you can find it first@very rare)...... Grill Sodok of fiber material is around RM 150-200 only and can be refiber back after you modified it... so the choice is yours smile.gif
Ooooo I see,,,, TQ TQ!
poolcarpet
post Dec 7 2011, 12:32 AM

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I used to have timing tight, very easy to use (i used to self tune a 4g15...). Clip to plug cable number 1 i think, then shoot the light at the crank pulley. You should see a mark there. Loosen distributor and adjust till it's within manufacturers spec. I've tried adjusting too advanced (pinking at slightest load!) and too retarded too (tadak power)... It's interesting Wish i have a timing light to check my current 4g13...

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 6 2011, 11:50 PM)
Ok... SO our stock bumper is PU?

My vacuum gauge shows 21.3 when air con kicks in and 24.4 when idle... Ignition timing too advance right?
How to adjust ah?

I read some thread need timing light one.. What is it? How to use?

Or just go sc gao tim?
Recommended sc anyone? Going there for 30k km service.

Blacklisted Senaxis, RM90 for brake pads!!!
*
dakwan5555
post Dec 7 2011, 03:57 AM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Dec 7 2011, 12:23 AM)
Ooooo I see,,,, TQ TQ!
*
URW bro..... Glad to be of help smile.gif
Peekab0o
post Dec 7 2011, 07:38 AM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 6 2011, 08:07 PM)
Sifus, what type of bulb should I buy? I want bright, can shoot wide and also far range whether in rain or not but at the same time not glaring to other drivers/pedestrians hmm.gif
*
Osram Nightbreaker plus... very nice bulb... but... lifespan kinda not so long as other bulbs.
Chan320
post Dec 7 2011, 07:58 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 6 2011, 11:50 PM)
Ok... SO our stock bumper is PU?

My vacuum gauge shows 21.3 when air con kicks in and 24.4 when idle... Ignition timing too advance right?
How to adjust ah?

I read some thread need timing light one.. What is it? How to use?

Or just go sc gao tim?
Recommended sc anyone? Going there for 30k km service.

Blacklisted Senaxis, RM90 for brake pads!!!
*
I have the same vacuum reading when idle but my aircon reading is at 19 or 20.Higher should be better as there is more power
Peekab0o
post Dec 7 2011, 08:09 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 6 2011, 11:50 PM)
Ok... SO our stock bumper is PU?

My vacuum gauge shows 21.3 when air con kicks in and 24.4 when idle... Ignition timing too advance right?
How to adjust ah?

I read some thread need timing light one.. What is it? How to use?

Or just go sc gao tim?
Recommended sc anyone? Going there for 30k km service.

Blacklisted Senaxis, RM90 for brake pads!!!
*
http://www.international-auto.com/fiat-lan...cuum-gauges.cfm

Here...

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 7 2011, 08:11 AM
cyanboy
post Dec 7 2011, 09:42 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 7 2011, 12:32 AM)
I used to have timing tight, very easy to use (i used to self tune a 4g15...). Clip to plug cable number 1 i think, then shoot the light at the crank pulley. You should see a mark there. Loosen distributor and adjust till it's within manufacturers spec. I've tried adjusting too advanced (pinking at slightest load!) and too retarded too (tadak power)... It's interesting Wish i have a timing light to check my current 4g13...
*
Wow... The timing light seemed expensive...

QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 7 2011, 07:58 AM)
I have the same vacuum reading when idle but my aircon reading is at 19 or 20.Higher should be better as there is more power
*
QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 7 2011, 08:09 AM)
Yours is in normal range... Mine is ignition timing too quick dy... As according to peekaboo's link. Crossed-referenced few links also state my ignition timing out... Will go check out then.


ILikePie
post Dec 7 2011, 09:51 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 7 2011, 07:38 AM)
Osram Nightbreaker plus... very nice bulb... but... lifespan kinda not so long as other bulbs.
*
How long will it last compared to normal bulbs?

Oh and how much? biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by ILikePie: Dec 7 2011, 09:51 AM
low yat 82
post Dec 7 2011, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 6 2011, 07:27 PM)
HUAHHHHH!!!  brows.gif  brows.gif  brows.gif  Finally after dam long wait... ~
*
lol...3 weeks..zzz

QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 6 2011, 08:49 PM)
How much for that NGK R8? Where u buy?
*
buy from amazon through agent..lol rm19x....

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 6 2011, 11:50 PM)
Ok... SO our stock bumper is PU?

My vacuum gauge shows 21.3 when air con kicks in and 24.4 when idle... Ignition timing too advance right?
How to adjust ah?

I read some thread need timing light one.. What is it? How to use?

Or just go sc gao tim?
Recommended sc anyone? Going there for 30k km service.

Blacklisted Senaxis, RM90 for brake pads!!!
*
not sure wat its call..plastic or PU..lol

where u buy n install? wanna buy also...lol..
QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 7 2011, 12:32 AM)
I used to have timing tight, very easy to use (i used to self tune a 4g15...). Clip to plug cable number 1 i think, then shoot the light at the crank pulley. You should see a mark there. Loosen distributor and adjust till it's within manufacturers spec. I've tried adjusting too advanced (pinking at slightest load!) and too retarded too (tadak power)... It's interesting Wish i have a timing light to check my current 4g13...
*
waa..how much?

QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 7 2011, 07:58 AM)
I have the same vacuum reading when idle but my aircon reading is at 19 or 20.Higher should be better as there is more power
*
IMHO, d important is how d reading reacts rather than d numbers... coz not sure how good is non branded 1..
poolcarpet
post Dec 7 2011, 11:23 AM

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i don't know, pinjam from my uncle last time now no more....

i looked around online and seems to cost >100 so no point buying, just ask mechanic to help check better or tune manually/by ear tongue.gif

i think just need to tune as advanced as possible without pinking, that's what you want to avoid. smile.gif


QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 7 2011, 10:56 AM)
lol...3 weeks..zzz
buy from amazon through agent..lol rm19x....
not sure wat its call..plastic or PU..lol

where u buy n install? wanna buy also...lol..

waa..how much?
IMHO, d important is how d reading reacts rather than d numbers... coz not sure how good is non branded 1..
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 7 2011, 11:24 AM
low yat 82
post Dec 7 2011, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 7 2011, 11:23 AM)
i don't know, pinjam from my uncle last time now no more....

i looked around online and seems to cost >100 so no point buying, just ask mechanic to help check better or tune manually/by ear tongue.gif

i think just need to tune as advanced as possible without pinking, that's what you want to avoid. smile.gif
*
how actually pinkin n knockin sound like a? lol.. sound metal knock to metal?



poolcarpet
post Dec 7 2011, 03:24 PM

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like marbles in a tin can.... iswara/wira very prone in this situation, when you are driving up a slope in high gear e.g. 4 or 5th gear, try flooring the accelerator and you'll start to hear this sound like marbles in tin can being shaken around. that is pinging or knocking. obviously when you hear this you should ease off the accelerator and downshift, because that sound basically means the fuel mixture is ignited when the piston is still on the way UP. not a good situation and can cause serious engine damage.





QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 7 2011, 02:41 PM)
how actually pinkin n knockin sound like a? lol.. sound metal knock to metal?
*
Codyx
post Dec 7 2011, 03:43 PM

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Yes agreed with that


Added on December 7, 2011, 3:43 pmelse get a higher CC car tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 7 2011, 03:43 PM
cyanboy
post Dec 7 2011, 04:23 PM

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I thought our stock spark cables are quite good by itself? And the limiting factor is the spark plug itself rather than the cable... Noobie here...
About the vacuum gauge... I bought brandless MONZA brand under 40 at kedai abang again, 20 for a good hose which rubber is as thick as stock ones, and installed myself. Sorry, its the last set, took 2 personnel half an hour to search for it...
Installation kat halaman rumah... Very easy 1 day job with guides from neosaint99 thread. Or you wan me offer installation also can nod.gif
I'll up this on blog later...
Here, Neosaint's99 VERY POISONOUS thread... [enter with antidote only]
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=541408&hl=

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

By ear punye mechanic then i rather tune myself la... Lol. Ooo, must be as advanced as possible... Will take note. Btw, I did saw instructions for DIY this light... I think its fake la...
I think check at SC for the actual timing ok or not first, cause my RM38 gauge maybe not be well-calibrated.


» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Seemed like very serious like that. Ok, i'll floor it later before I go SC...

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


That's poisonous...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 7 2011, 04:34 PM
lyordson
post Dec 7 2011, 05:51 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 7 2011, 07:38 AM)
Osram Nightbreaker plus... very nice bulb... but... lifespan kinda not so long as other bulbs.
*
lifespan short? izso used it for few years leh.
low yat 82
post Dec 7 2011, 07:20 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 7 2011, 03:24 PM)
like marbles in a tin can.... iswara/wira very prone in this situation, when you are driving up a slope in high gear e.g. 4 or 5th gear, try flooring the accelerator and you'll start to hear this sound like marbles in tin can being shaken around. that is pinging or knocking. obviously when you hear this you should ease off the accelerator and downshift, because that sound basically means the fuel mixture is ignited when the piston is still on the way UP. not a good situation and can cause serious engine damage.
*
ooo....thanks for d tippp rclxms.gif

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 7 2011, 04:23 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

I thought our stock spark cables are quite good by itself? And the limiting factor is the spark plug itself rather than the cable... Noobie here...
About the vacuum gauge... I bought brandless MONZA brand under 40 at kedai abang again, 20 for a good hose which rubber is as thick as stock ones, and installed myself. Sorry, its the last set, took 2 personnel half an hour to search for it...
Installation kat halaman rumah... Very easy 1 day job with guides from neosaint99 thread. Or you wan me offer installation also can nod.gif
I'll up this on blog later...
Here, Neosaint's99 VERY POISONOUS thread... [enter with antidote only]
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=541408&hl=

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

By ear punye mechanic then i rather tune myself la... Lol. Ooo, must be as advanced as possible... Will take note. Btw, I did saw instructions for DIY this light... I think its fake la...
I think check at SC for the actual timing ok or not first, cause my RM38 gauge maybe not be well-calibrated.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Seemed like very serious like that. Ok, i'll floor it later before I go SC...

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


That's poisonous...
*
yup. stock good liao. hand itchy ma dat time...lol..

ooo...nice link... i let u noe if i need any help.. huhu..
Codyx
post Dec 7 2011, 08:50 PM

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From: Rawang, Selayang, Kepong...


You guys have any unofficial TT here?

just Saga Iswaras [iswara/LMSS/LMST] only

Probably KL

beside all talk about spec here...how about sharing together and better visualizations drool.gif

This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 7 2011, 08:51 PM
hammerclaw69
post Dec 7 2011, 10:55 PM

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Hi Peeps... im new here ( not yet a member ).. n thanx for the new thread biggrin.gif ...

Just a quick question... My right hand side headlight bulb always kaput/burnt... lower beam ONLY ...
Is that common for Saga/Iswara or cud it be short circuit?, I din do any mod to headlight ..

Anyhow.. is that Voltage Stabilizer can solve this problem?


May thanx in advance seefuz smile.gif
evoluzzion
post Dec 7 2011, 11:14 PM

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guys... if batt totaly kong, can it be charge again...? i left my 777 not moving for almost 2 month already coz no money mau renew rotax... hehe.... so sad maa.... huhu.... i just started and warmup the engine twice in a week... suddenly last week i want to start, cannot already..display at meter also no light what so ever... zeroo... hehe.. i scare the batt cannot be charge again or have to change new batt... (money again... cry.gif cry.gif cry.gif ) huhuhu....
hammerclaw69
post Dec 7 2011, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 25 2011, 03:29 AM)
Sometimes LMST when off engine, the engine will die off then idle for 1 sec and gone off again... Is it tappet adjustment out is it?
*
Thats actually fuel sipping onto carburetor and you will find its hard to start again immediately... not sure what the cause but I got the experience. It will start normaly after awhile
Peekab0o
post Dec 7 2011, 11:54 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 7 2011, 05:51 PM)
lifespan short? izso used it for few years leh.
*
Naturally shorter than other brands la... haiyo dont mean its really short short short veli short those kind ...
cyanboy
post Dec 8 2011, 12:23 AM

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I just floored on a slope at 5th gear... Got 2 sounds actually...
One sounds does sounded like knocking. Do you mean the tin can might not be that "kosong"? Cause it doesn't sound like "kong kong kong" but rather very thick walled and small tin can with lots of marbles... blink.gif
Another sound is basically whole car shaking+jerking+dashboard+steering+4 wheels going to torn apart sound... Even the battery light also flickering dy if I dun downshift immediately

QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 7 2011, 07:20 PM)
ooo....thanks for d tippp  rclxms.gif
yup. stock good liao. hand itchy ma dat time...lol..

ooo...nice link... i let u noe if i need any help.. huhu..
*
See all these poison everyday in this thread hand very fast itchy one whistling.gif

QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 7 2011, 08:50 PM)
You guys have any unofficial TT here?

just Saga Iswaras [iswara/LMSS/LMST] only

Probably KL

beside all talk about spec here...how about sharing together and better visualizations  drool.gif
*
Second that... thumbup.gif

QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 7 2011, 10:55 PM)
Hi Peeps... im new here ( not yet a member ).. n thanx for the new thread biggrin.gif ...

Just a quick question... My right hand side headlight bulb always kaput/burnt... lower beam ONLY ...
Is that common for Saga/Iswara or cud it be short circuit?, I din do any mod to headlight ..

Anyhow.. is that Voltage Stabilizer can solve this problem?
May thanx in advance seefuz smile.gif
*
Perhaps really short circuit? or the relay?
VS might help... I had seen satria neo meter flickering like mad until someone gave him a VS.
Problem solved without changing the meter...
Better wait for sifu to reply or just go to a trusted wireman to check up your headlights wiring...

QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 7 2011, 11:29 PM)
Thats actually fuel sipping onto carburetor and you will find its hard to start again immediately... not sure what the cause but I got the experience. It will start normaly after awhile
*
Ok... So it's not my distributor timing advance thingy... Will see la...

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Whats this port for? The two pins shows zero resistance towards each other but it is not ground itself and not 12V supply also...

How to access power window switch? Can't pull out although loosen screws on cup holder and leg there...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 8 2011, 12:25 AM
squarepilot
post Dec 8 2011, 01:14 AM

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hey. i currently using ron97 on my 1.5 carbo engine.

do i need to tweet the engine it if i wanted to switch? my friend told me carburetor no need to retard the engine, only those with injection without auto timing must tweet.

any advice?
hammerclaw69
post Dec 8 2011, 01:16 AM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 6 2011, 08:07 PM)
Sifus, what type of bulb should I buy? I want bright, can shoot wide and also far range whether in rain or not but at the same time not glaring to other drivers/pedestrians hmm.gif
*
I guess Osram Night Breaker Plus should be sufficient smile.gif . for Iswara/Saga its H4

EDIT : .. Can get it for 90bucks... and its better than previous version of Night Breaker ( without the Plus )


Added on December 8, 2011, 1:31 am[quote=cyanboy,Dec 8 2011, 12:23 AM]
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

I just floored on a slope at 5th gear... Got 2 sounds actually...
One sounds does sounded like knocking. Do you mean the tin can might not be that "kosong"? Cause it doesn't sound like "kong kong kong" but rather very thick walled and small tin can with lots of marbles... blink.gif
Another sound is basically whole car shaking+jerking+dashboard+steering+4 wheels going to torn apart sound... Even the battery light also flickering dy if I dun downshift immediately
See all these poison everyday in this thread hand very fast itchy one whistling.gif
Second that... thumbup.gif
Perhaps really short circuit? or the relay?
VS might help... I had seen satria neo meter flickering like mad until someone gave him a VS.
Problem solved without changing the meter...

- Thanx.. ll check out whether really short circuit or not.. planned to plonk in Osram Nightbreaker Plus .. heard it is now better than the previous version without the 'Plus' .. major improvement on lifespan and its road legal biggrin.gif


Better wait for sifu to reply or just go to a trusted wireman to check up your headlights wiring...
Ok... So it's not my distributor timing advance thingy... Will see la...


- Yep bro... not distributor.. its the carburetor.. and what i personally encounter is... wen i change air filter... n engine oil change to castrol magnatec semi .... it stopped edy... tongue.gif

This post has been edited by hammerclaw69: Dec 8 2011, 01:35 AM
poolcarpet
post Dec 8 2011, 06:15 AM

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Yes the tin can with lots of marbles sound. Thats the engine pinging. So if you retard the timing, then pinging won't happen so easily but you lose a lot of power.

Have no idea what the other sound is, sound serious if everything seems to be falling apart and batt light flickering...

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 8 2011, 12:23 AM)
I just floored on a slope at 5th gear... Got 2 sounds actually...
One sounds does sounded like knocking. Do you mean the tin can might not be that "kosong"? Cause it doesn't sound like "kong kong kong" but rather very thick walled and small tin can with lots of marbles...  blink.gif
Another sound is basically whole car shaking+jerking+dashboard+steering+4 wheels going to torn apart sound... Even the battery light also flickering dy if I dun downshift immediately
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 8 2011, 06:16 AM
lyordson
post Dec 8 2011, 12:10 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 7 2011, 11:54 PM)
Naturally shorter than other brands la... haiyo dont mean its really short short short veli short those kind ...
*
which other brand can last how long? hmm.gif
Peekab0o
post Dec 8 2011, 01:50 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 8 2011, 12:10 PM)
which other brand can last how long?  hmm.gif
*
Duno haha... im using night breaker plus too.. i think i post b4 the brightness of the bulb..

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=42531629

Around Rm 90-100 only... behind the bulb box also got diagram shows that thier lifespan is indeed lesser than other brands but as long can last me at least 1 year thats fine for me... See the brightness for urself then judge.. u wan buy or not lor.

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 8 2011, 01:54 PM
stasis21
post Dec 8 2011, 03:10 PM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 7 2011, 10:55 PM)
Hi Peeps... im new here ( not yet a member ).. n thanx for the new thread biggrin.gif ...

Just a quick question... My right hand side headlight bulb always kaput/burnt... lower beam ONLY ...
Is that common for Saga/Iswara or cud it be short circuit?, I din do any mod to headlight ..

Anyhow.. is that Voltage Stabilizer can solve this problem?
May thanx in advance seefuz smile.gif
*
How old is your saga? Happened to my High beam before and Happened to my aircond switch recently. Changed my air cond switch twice and both switches melt due to the heat shocking.gif ,
Went to the aircond shop, he said the wire old or sumthing so short circuit. He did some wiring and its fine now, as for the high beam prob, the mechanic just added a cable to skip a plug which seems to be causing the short, The plug melted too doh.gif

Check under the steering wheel for any signs of short circuit. Normally one plug there will melt icon_rolleyes.gif

DaBestOne
post Dec 8 2011, 03:38 PM

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From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.



QUOTE(squarepilot @ Dec 8 2011, 01:14 AM)
hey. i currently using ron97 on my 1.5 carbo engine.

do i need to tweet the engine it if i wanted to switch? my friend told me carburetor no need to retard the engine, only those with injection without auto timing must tweet.

any advice?
*
Wow bro why use ron97? hmm.gif so expensive sweat.gif
fleekreturn
post Dec 8 2011, 05:44 PM

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Anyone interested for straight flow muffler? Trompet style. Letting go cheap at RM40 only. happy.gif
hammerclaw69
post Dec 8 2011, 08:15 PM

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QUOTE(stasis21 @ Dec 8 2011, 03:10 PM)
How old is your saga? Happened to my High beam before and Happened to my aircond switch recently. Changed  my air cond switch twice and both switches melt due to the heat  shocking.gif ,
Went to the aircond shop, he said the wire old or sumthing so short circuit. He did some wiring and its fine now, as for the high beam prob, the mechanic just added a cable to skip a plug which seems to be causing the short, The plug melted too doh.gif

Check under the steering wheel for any signs of short circuit. Normally one plug there will melt  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
Mine LMST 6 years edy bro... was using Phillips bulb ( not sure wic version ) bright white one... it last me 5 years wo ... but d headlamp plastic get damn hot ... so d 5th year end its kaput... n oni d right hand side low beam...

Den i change to some german brand HOD bulb.. was better than the phillip in terms of d white light and never blind oncoming traffic.... used that about 6 - 8 months nw d same right hand side low beam kaput....

some says , it is related to relay.. n not sure which relay cuz i didn add any relay for headlight ...

n coincidently.. my reverse light for rear left lamp kaput also... so.. not sure whether ada short circuit ke or related to relay....

duwan 2 kena poison by foreman lar... any seefus can confim what could be the cause?

EDIT : N bro.. i guess you're talking about fuse... if fuse blow.. the entire headlight will kaput wo.. ini juz left low beam.. haiz.. din wash car.. din kena rain.. duno hw lar.. m not using any voltage stabilizer, no power amp .... was juz using led strip connected to small lamp kat headlight ... n that oso remove edy wen i change the headlight ( taiwan made )

This post has been edited by hammerclaw69: Dec 8 2011, 08:18 PM
stasis21
post Dec 8 2011, 09:16 PM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 8 2011, 08:15 PM)
Mine LMST 6 years edy bro... was using Phillips bulb ( not sure wic version ) bright white one... it last me 5 years wo ... but d headlamp plastic get damn hot ... so  d 5th year end its kaput... n oni d right hand side low beam...

Den i change to some german brand HOD bulb.. was better than the phillip in terms of d white light and never blind oncoming traffic.... used that about 6 - 8 months nw d same right hand side low beam kaput....

some says , it is related to relay.. n not sure which relay cuz i didn add any relay for headlight ...

n coincidently.. my reverse light for rear left lamp kaput also... so.. not sure whether ada short circuit ke or related to relay....

duwan 2 kena poison by foreman lar... any seefus can confim what could be the cause?

EDIT : N bro.. i guess you're talking about fuse... if fuse blow.. the entire headlight will kaput wo.. ini juz left low beam.. haiz.. din wash car.. din kena rain.. duno hw lar.. m not using any voltage stabilizer, no power amp .... was juz using led strip connected to small lamp kat headlight ... n that oso remove edy wen i change the headlight ( taiwan made )
*
I think 6 years your cables should be okay. Im not talking bout the fuse lol doh.gif , for my car the whole cable heated up and melted the connections of the headlight to the switch on the steering wheel. For my car, the cables were old and heats up due to resistance. For your car , now im not sure anymore hmm.gif
hammerclaw69
post Dec 8 2011, 10:32 PM

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QUOTE(stasis21 @ Dec 8 2011, 09:16 PM)
I think 6 years your cables should be okay. Im not talking bout the fuse lol doh.gif , for my car the whole cable heated up and melted the connections of the headlight to the switch on the steering wheel. For my car, the cables were old and heats up due to resistance. For your car , now im not sure anymore  hmm.gif
*
heated up and melted? dayumn... thats reli bad and if im not wrong you have to re-do d whole wiring for your car right?
yeah me too nt sure watz d cause sad.gif


n another thing is my rear absorber worn out too soon... using kayaba... standard oil wan... about 6 months d... nw keras edy...

is it advisable to change spring afta 6 years? cuz im thinking that , if the spring went too soft.. the absorber can worn out faster... wen use my fingers 2 press d spring it .. its juz goes too easy compare 2 new stock spring...


now thinking twice whether wana change d spring + absorber or just the absorber... any advise seefus?
poolcarpet
post Dec 8 2011, 10:44 PM

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My 12 yr old iswara still using ori spring! Springs hardly go bad unless you overload very often. If it's easy to press down, it's a sign absorber koyak, not spring. If spring koyak, i believe the car will sag down, i.e. lowered as the spring can no longer support the weight.

So go get yourself a pair of ori kayaba gas or apm performax rear absorber i think rm130 or so per pair and just change the absorbers first. Labor prob rm30 to 50? I'm guessing, cause i changed all 4 plus lower arm and labor was rm100. Probably cost you less than rm200 for this.


QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 8 2011, 10:32 PM)
heated up and melted? dayumn... thats reli bad and if im not wrong you have to re-do d whole wiring for your car right?
yeah me too nt sure watz d cause sad.gif
n another thing is my rear absorber worn out too soon... using kayaba... standard oil wan... about 6 months d... nw keras edy...

is it advisable to change spring afta 6 years? cuz im thinking that , if the spring went too soft.. the absorber can worn out faster... wen use my fingers 2 press d spring it .. its juz goes too easy compare 2 new stock spring...
now thinking twice whether wana change d spring + absorber or just the absorber... any advise seefus?
*
cyanboy
post Dec 9 2011, 12:45 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 8 2011, 06:15 AM)
Yes the tin can with lots of marbles sound. Thats the engine pinging. So if you retard the timing, then pinging won't happen so easily but you lose a lot of power.

Have no idea what the other sound is, sound serious if everything seems to be falling apart and batt light flickering...
*
Falling apart means dashboard all use clips only lo... Batt light flickering means sudah mau mati engine...

QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 8 2011, 08:15 PM)
Mine LMST 6 years edy bro... was using Phillips bulb ( not sure wic version ) bright white one... it last me 5 years wo ... but d headlamp plastic get damn hot ... so  d 5th year end its kaput... n oni d right hand side low beam...

Den i change to some german brand HOD bulb.. was better than the phillip in terms of d white light and never blind oncoming traffic.... used that about 6 - 8 months nw d same right hand side low beam kaput....

some says , it is related to relay.. n not sure which relay cuz i didn add any relay for headlight ...

n coincidently.. my reverse light for rear left lamp kaput also... so.. not sure whether ada short circuit ke or related to relay....

duwan 2 kena poison by foreman lar... any seefus can confim what could be the cause?

EDIT : N bro.. i guess you're talking about fuse... if fuse blow.. the entire headlight will kaput wo.. ini juz left low beam.. haiz.. din wash car.. din kena rain.. duno hw lar.. m not using any voltage stabilizer, no power amp .... was juz using led strip connected to small lamp kat headlight ... n that oso remove edy wen i change the headlight ( taiwan made )
*
Whats your phillips or HOD bulb Watt rating? If you use like 110/120W bulb with stock wiring confirm connector habis, headlamp habis fast and reflector also habis fast... I read this somewhere...
Cause kedai abang say if I wan use their promo less than RM10 H4 110W bulb need pull another wiring to settle...

Today went SC for 30k service... Manyak mahal... But for the sake of the service book stamp, okla...
Complained about the air con pretensioner bearing... They say no prob, add lubricant then jalan... Now still got eeeh-eeeh sound at high rpm doh.gif
dakwan5555
post Dec 9 2011, 01:02 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 9 2011, 12:45 AM)
Whats your phillips or HOD bulb Watt rating? If you use like 110/120W bulb with stock wiring confirm connector habis, headlamp habis fast and reflector also habis fast... I read this somewhere...
Cause kedai abang say if I wan use their promo less than RM10 H4 110W bulb need pull another wiring to settle...
*
Check your bulb socket carefully, LMST are prone to melting the headlamp socket..... smile.gif



squarepilot
post Dec 10 2011, 12:56 AM

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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Dec 8 2011, 03:38 PM)
Wow bro why use ron97? hmm.gif so expensive  sweat.gif
*
yalor. now must change already. if not pocket fast empty. so do i need to retard the engine or not?
ILikePie
post Dec 10 2011, 03:38 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 8 2011, 01:50 PM)
Duno haha... im using night breaker plus too.. i think i post b4 the brightness of the bulb..

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=42531629

Around Rm 90-100 only... behind the bulb box also got diagram shows that thier lifespan is indeed lesser than other brands but as long can last me at least 1 year thats fine for me... See the brightness for urself then judge.. u wan buy or not lor.
*
Will my signal be seen with NB+? It looks so bright
Lowenkreuz
post Dec 10 2011, 08:40 AM

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http://paultan.org/2011/12/10/proton-mobil...lmst-and-gen-2/

this is free installlation ar?
cyanboy
post Dec 10 2011, 08:49 AM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Dec 10 2011, 08:40 AM)
According to my previous owner maintenance record, the installation is free at proton service centre... No charges on seat belts and workmanship.

But for this mobile team, charges? hmm.gif
Peekab0o
post Dec 10 2011, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 10 2011, 03:38 AM)
Will my signal be seen with NB+? It looks so bright
*
Ur signal can still be seen... dont worry...


Something to poison u guys today brows.gif

If anyone planning to change muffler i would definitely recommend Japan Halfcut one's with JASMA approval ... Sound wise really is silent and of course performance is there too ... Got mine today ~ Fitted in car ~ When free i will upload the muffler idling and rev-ing sound ...

Here are some pics brows.gif

user posted image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


user posted image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us



This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 10 2011, 07:02 PM
fleekreturn
post Dec 10 2011, 08:33 PM

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Waaa. HKS hi powahh. How much bro?
Peekab0o
post Dec 10 2011, 09:08 PM

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QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 10 2011, 08:33 PM)
Waaa. HKS hi powahh. How much bro?
*
Halfcut mali ... Rm 350 brows.gif
sinister_sid
post Dec 10 2011, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(evoluzzion @ Dec 7 2011, 11:14 PM)
guys... if batt totaly kong, can it be charge again...? i left my 777 not moving for almost 2 month already coz no money mau renew rotax... hehe.... so sad maa.... huhu.... i just started and warmup the engine twice in a week... suddenly last week i want to start, cannot already..display at meter also no light what so ever... zeroo... hehe.. i scare the batt cannot be charge again or have to change new batt... (money again...  cry.gif  cry.gif  cry.gif ) huhuhu....
*
try using another car to charge it or sent to workshop some have the battery charger
maybe can still reuse
how oldf ur battery ?
peachmonkey
post Dec 10 2011, 11:18 PM

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Any suggestions on what type of absorbers I should use to replace my stock LMST shocks?

Was thinking of replacing the whole set as my car seems to be 'bouncing' up and down too much on the road now a days biggrin.gif
Peekab0o
post Dec 11 2011, 01:04 AM

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QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Dec 10 2011, 11:18 PM)
Any suggestions on what type of absorbers I should use to replace my stock LMST shocks?

Was thinking of replacing the whole set as my car seems to be 'bouncing' up and down too much on the road now a days biggrin.gif
*
APM Performax cheap and cheerfull.
Lowenkreuz
post Dec 11 2011, 07:07 AM

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oh ya. apm performax is sport spring or sport dampers?
or just normal OEM replacement?
Peekab0o
post Dec 11 2011, 08:07 AM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Dec 11 2011, 07:07 AM)
oh ya. apm performax is sport spring or sport dampers?
or just normal OEM replacement?
*
Budget sport . They have both spring and absorber for our car..

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 11 2011, 08:08 AM
poolcarpet
post Dec 11 2011, 08:31 AM

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I'm using apm performax with stock spring and feel it's a bit stiff. Handling is good but i thnk i would have preferred a softer ride, should have gone for standard kayaba gas... But apm perfomax does provide quite good handling..
lyordson
post Dec 11 2011, 11:23 AM

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if i want to do shark gills fender, do i have to cut it or change fender?
Peekab0o
post Dec 11 2011, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 11 2011, 11:23 AM)
if i want to do shark gills fender, do i have to cut it or change fender?
*
go bodykit shop they have... either custom make use ur stock fender and they mould the fiber on it ... or custom whole fender fiber one ...
peachmonkey
post Dec 11 2011, 02:18 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 11 2011, 01:04 AM)
APM Performax cheap and cheerfull.
*
QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 11 2011, 08:31 AM)
I'm using apm performax with stock spring and feel it's a bit stiff. Handling is good but i thnk i would have preferred a softer ride, should have gone for standard kayaba gas... But apm perfomax does provide quite good handling..
*
Can the APM Absorbers be used with the stock Iswara springs? Or is there a matching spring that I can use but still retain the original ride height?

BTW, is the Kayaba Gas stiffer than the original absorbers but softer than APM? Can they be used with the ori springs as well?
poolcarpet
post Dec 11 2011, 04:50 PM

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Kayaba gas should be stiffer than ori but softer than performax. It's in between and if you're just a casual driver i think kayaba gas will be best value for money. If you're a driving enthusiast then kayaba gas may be too 'boring' lol


QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Dec 11 2011, 02:18 PM)
Can the APM Absorbers be used with the stock Iswara springs? Or is there a matching spring that I can use but still retain the original ride height?

BTW, is the Kayaba Gas stiffer than the original absorbers but softer than APM? Can they be used with the ori springs as well?
*
peachmonkey
post Dec 11 2011, 05:52 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 11 2011, 04:50 PM)
Kayaba gas should be stiffer than ori but softer than performax. It's in between and if you're just a casual driver i think kayaba gas will be best value for money. If you're a driving enthusiast then kayaba gas may be too 'boring' lol
*
I see. But there is no problem to pair the Kayaba Gas absorbers with the stock springs right? Or do I need to change the springs as well?
poolcarpet
post Dec 11 2011, 06:15 PM

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As far as i know, kayaba gas should be for standard spring. Apm performax can be with standard spring or apm sport spring (slightly lowered i think)
peachmonkey
post Dec 11 2011, 08:05 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 11 2011, 06:15 PM)
As far as i know, kayaba gas should be for standard spring. Apm performax can be with standard spring or apm sport spring (slightly lowered i think)
*
Thanks for the advice. Will look around town for the Kayaba Gas Shocks. Hopefully can get it installed by this year tongue.gif
BTW, how much does a pair of the absorbers cost? Want to make sure the shop won't 'potong' me with the price brows.gif

Another thing forgot to ask, if I plan to change the springs in the future but want to maintain the standard height of the car, what spring is recommended? Looking for a balance between handling and comfort.
Codyx
post Dec 11 2011, 09:01 PM

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Anyone here when throttle/Floor the pedal the acceleration will only come slightly later? like delay? something feel not right recently, the car doesn't respond to my foot very well and felt quite lembik when accelerates...like something is restricting...

any idea sifu?
thanks in advance :S
poolcarpet
post Dec 11 2011, 10:11 PM

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APM Performax Front pair - RM220
APM Performax Rear pair - RM130

These are the prices I paid for my shocks from nearest spare part shop. Shop around prices should be +- around here I guess, but for Kayaba gas, I would expect them to be slightly cheaper than the performax.

No idea on springs, sorry.

QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Dec 11 2011, 08:05 PM)
Thanks for the advice. Will look around town for the Kayaba Gas Shocks. Hopefully can get it installed by this year tongue.gif
BTW, how much does a pair of the absorbers cost? Want to make sure the shop won't 'potong' me with the price  brows.gif

Another thing forgot to ask, if I plan to change the springs in the future but want to maintain the standard height of the car, what spring is recommended? Looking for a balance between handling and comfort.
*
Quazacolt
post Dec 12 2011, 04:10 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 10 2011, 11:55 AM)
Ur signal can still be seen... dont worry...
Something to poison u guys today  brows.gif 

*
how much you got it from? (including installation with rm350?) where to get also? if i prefer something new over halfcut, what would you recommend?


Added on December 12, 2011, 4:12 am
QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 11 2011, 09:01 PM)
Anyone here when throttle/Floor the pedal the acceleration will only come slightly later? like delay? something feel not right recently, the car doesn't respond to my foot very well and felt quite lembik when accelerates...like something is restricting...

any idea sifu?
thanks in advance :S
*
have you done FI/carb de-carbon before?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 12 2011, 04:12 AM
low yat 82
post Dec 12 2011, 08:49 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 11 2011, 09:01 PM)
Anyone here when throttle/Floor the pedal the acceleration will only come slightly later? like delay? something feel not right recently, the car doesn't respond to my foot very well and felt quite lembik when accelerates...like something is restricting...

any idea sifu?
thanks in advance :S
*
i guess d exhaust piping is restrictin it... wats ur size? i change from stock size 1.5" to 1.6".. abit responsive but could do better wit bigger sizing.. anyway, i guess 1.6" is good enough witout losin any low end ... jus my 2 cents..
Peekab0o
post Dec 12 2011, 08:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 12 2011, 04:10 AM)
how much you got it from? (including installation with rm350?) where to get also? if i prefer something new over halfcut, what would you recommend?


Added on December 12, 2011, 4:12 am

have you done FI/carb de-carbon before?
*
Installation not included... cash and carry from halfcut shop then bring go exhaust shop weld it usually they charge Rm 30-50 , I had beeen trial and error-ing my exhaust... this is my 5th muffler... those normal exhaust shop one the fiber gone in no time... then the noise start to become noisy... even Marco ... fellow forumer Enoch Keng bought about Rm 300 too new pc [ muffler only] less than half year , same fiber dosent last... noise starts to come in...

Well im still monitoring this exhaust... definitely so much silent than those normal exhaust shop straight flows..

About where to get... probably u can scout mudah.my everyday lol... cause it seem to be hot item... sold out in few days or when your free juz have a walk over halfcut shops around anywhere near u...

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 12 2011, 08:57 AM
Codyx
post Dec 12 2011, 12:17 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 12 2011, 08:49 AM)
i guess d exhaust piping is restrictin it... wats ur size? i change from stock size 1.5" to 1.6".. abit responsive but could do better wit bigger sizing.. anyway, i guess 1.6" is good enough witout losin any low end ... jus my 2 cents..
*
i don't think it's my exhaust setting...as it has been liddat for long....this incident just happened recently.....i thought i was my carb problem...better let it inspected
Quazacolt
post Dec 12 2011, 03:16 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


well tentatively i plan to get brand new hot bits full set exhaust system, but those cost well over 1k++ sad.gif
supposedly quiet (important criteria) and wont lack on performance

what do you think about those?

also to rest/everyone:
how much is the power steering pump for iswara aeroback auto year 1999 (lol enough details?) noticed the power steering oil dropped quite drastically, and after brought the car to mechanic to check, they say pump leaking, need replace (cant replace hose/seal or anything? or repair kit)
Peekab0o
post Dec 12 2011, 08:34 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 12 2011, 03:16 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


well tentatively i plan to get brand new hot bits full set exhaust system, but those cost well over 1k++ sad.gif
supposedly quiet (important criteria) and wont lack on performance

what do you think about those?

also to rest/everyone:
how much is the power steering pump for iswara aeroback auto year 1999 (lol enough details?) noticed the power steering oil dropped quite drastically, and after brought the car to mechanic to check, they say pump leaking, need replace (cant replace hose/seal or anything? or repair kit)
*
IMO hotbits full set exhaust system quite worth getting it ... say we calculate this way ... if u planning to go for rojak and performance as well ... 4-2-1 extractor powerzone Rm 450.. Centre bullet ... branded one ... about Rm 200 ... 1.6" 1.7" piping... white steel ... from front till back not mandrel bent one ... Rm 150-170 depends on shop... finally 1 back muffler say find halfcut from Japan ... rm 250-400 ...


I do know hotbits extractor for our car are no longer in the Rm 400 range price increased rite ? to how much i not sure.. wait sid,zaini,zeno for replies ... Then thier piping if not mistaken stainless steel and mandrel bent ? worth getting hmm...
DSV4600
post Dec 12 2011, 10:35 PM

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Maybe can try doing group buy for Hotbits exhaust system (full set).
I'm also interested to buy as my car still stock...
sinister_sid
post Dec 12 2011, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 11 2011, 09:01 PM)
Anyone here when throttle/Floor the pedal the acceleration will only come slightly later? like delay? something feel not right recently, the car doesn't respond to my foot very well and felt quite lembik when accelerates...like something is restricting...

any idea sifu?
thanks in advance :S
*
thottle cable sag liaw
try adjust the tension of the cable at yr carb till it doesnt have free play
adjust at the cable hook up point near the spindle
Codyx
post Dec 12 2011, 11:27 PM

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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Dec 12 2011, 10:36 PM)
thottle cable sag liaw
try adjust the tension of the cable at yr carb till it doesnt have free play
adjust at the cable hook up point near the spindle
*
not free play....i think it's carb prob....will take for tuning and decarbonising soon
lyordson
post Dec 12 2011, 11:34 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 12 2011, 08:34 PM)
IMO hotbits full set exhaust system quite worth getting it ... say we calculate this way ... if u planning to go for rojak and performance as well ... 4-2-1 extractor powerzone Rm 450.. Centre bullet ... branded one ... about Rm 200 ... 1.6" 1.7" piping... white steel ... from front till back not mandrel bent one ... Rm 150-170 depends on shop... finally 1 back muffler say find halfcut from Japan ... rm 250-400 ...
I do know hotbits extractor for our car are no longer in the Rm 400 range price increased rite ? to how much i not sure.. wait sid,zaini,zeno for replies ... Then thier piping if not mistaken stainless steel and mandrel bent ? worth getting hmm...
*
imho, hotbits piping is not really that practical for our kete kebal, and the price is so exp. bout 6xx for a aluminized mandrel bent not stainless steel. as our original piping route bends is not that much? furthermore some places like Everco produce mandrel bent alu piping for 1xx-2xx only. hmm.gif

This post has been edited by lyordson: Dec 12 2011, 11:36 PM
Rhadykall
post Dec 12 2011, 11:46 PM

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Recently installed Osram Nightbreaker+. The bulbs are bright as expected. Just one problem; left side seems way brighter. Any idea why? Or suggestions on how to fix this?
ILikePie
post Dec 13 2011, 12:38 AM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 12 2011, 11:46 PM)
Recently installed Osram Nightbreaker+. The bulbs are bright as expected. Just one problem; left side seems way brighter. Any idea why? Or suggestions on how to fix this?
*
Switch left and right bulbs and see if there's any difference? hmm.gif
Rhadykall
post Dec 13 2011, 01:44 AM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 13 2011, 12:38 AM)
Switch left and right bulbs and see if there's any difference? hmm.gif
*
didnt think of that one before. will try it out tomorrow.
Shawnzz
post Dec 13 2011, 01:56 AM

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currently using kweng straight flow muffler, can say i clocked about 5-7k kilometers after i use it. still fine. noise getting more solid after a longer period of time. Nice sound. After this muffler gg , i will only go for japan muffler.
lyordson
post Dec 13 2011, 02:05 AM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 12 2011, 11:46 PM)
Recently installed Osram Nightbreaker+. The bulbs are bright as expected. Just one problem; left side seems way brighter. Any idea why? Or suggestions on how to fix this?
*
same here. left side is slight higher too.
Quazacolt
post Dec 13 2011, 02:47 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 12 2011, 08:34 PM)
IMO hotbits full set exhaust system quite worth getting it ... say we calculate this way ... if u planning to go for rojak and performance as well ... 4-2-1 extractor powerzone Rm 450.. Centre bullet ... branded one ... about Rm 200 ... 1.6" 1.7" piping... white steel ... from front till back not mandrel bent one ... Rm 150-170 depends on shop... finally 1 back muffler say find halfcut from Japan ... rm 250-400 ...
I do know hotbits extractor for our car are no longer in the Rm 400 range price increased rite ? to how much i not sure.. wait sid,zaini,zeno for replies ... Then thier piping if not mistaken stainless steel and mandrel bent ? worth getting hmm...
*
from your calculation also over 1k, i guess if im not too picky on performance, hotbits will do for the lack of worries/headaches ^^;


Added on December 13, 2011, 2:49 am
QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Dec 12 2011, 10:35 PM)
Maybe can try doing group buy for Hotbits exhaust system (full set).
I'm also interested to buy as my car still stock...
*
for me at least next year la lol (thats if i wanna go through with it)

reason also being the lack of kick during speeding and my exhaust ady 12 years, sure carbon like fark ady, so much for performance lol

not that its very quiet too as the muffler insides prolly gg'd/corroded/worn or w/e

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 13 2011, 02:49 AM
hammerclaw69
post Dec 13 2011, 03:12 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 8 2011, 10:44 PM)
My 12 yr old iswara still using ori spring! Springs hardly go bad unless you overload very often. If it's easy to press down, it's a sign absorber koyak, not spring. If spring koyak, i believe the car will sag down, i.e. lowered as the spring can no longer support the weight.

So go get yourself a pair of ori kayaba gas or apm performax rear absorber i think rm130 or so per pair and just change the absorbers first. Labor prob rm30 to 50? I'm guessing, cause i changed all 4 plus lower arm and labor was rm100. Probably cost you less than rm200 for this.
*
Not press down the suspension system bro.. juz the spring ( the iron rods , press 2 iron rods together )

n yes bro.. the car is way lower now sad.gif ... so shud be spring wo... n is it change all 4 spring better or juz the rear ?

erm.. oraite bro... many thanx for the advise smile.gif


Added on December 13, 2011, 4:36 am
QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 9 2011, 12:45 AM)
Falling apart means dashboard all use clips only lo... Batt light flickering means sudah mau mati engine...
Whats your phillips or HOD bulb Watt rating? If you use like 110/120W bulb with stock wiring confirm connector habis, headlamp habis fast and reflector also habis fast... I read this somewhere...
Cause kedai abang say if I wan use their promo less than RM10 H4 110W bulb need pull another wiring to settle...

Today went SC for 30k service... Manyak mahal... But for the sake of the service book stamp, okla...
Complained about the air con pretensioner bearing... They say no prob, add lubricant then jalan... Now still got eeeh-eeeh sound at high rpm  doh.gif
*
not phillips bro , some german brand ( not ori thou ) but it is HOD bro bukan halogen... and watt also follows standard H4 bro , I guess they maybe fix relay for 110W bulb..

still got that sound ar? hmm .. i had that kinda sound earlier... they changed the air con compressor belt , oil d compressor , change valve... basically its complete air cond service.. n tadaaa... no sound and super cool air cond.. but... d white smoke comes sad.gif ....


Added on December 13, 2011, 4:39 am
QUOTE(dakwan5555 @ Dec 9 2011, 01:02 AM)
Check your bulb socket carefully, LMST are prone to melting the headlamp socket..... smile.gif
*
dayumn.. seriously? so far i din use over rated watt bulbs bro.. juz the standard for saga... shud be fine.. but must check again .. thanx for highlighting it mate smile.gif

This post has been edited by hammerclaw69: Dec 13 2011, 04:57 AM
low yat 82
post Dec 13 2011, 08:43 AM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 13 2011, 02:05 AM)
same here. left side is slight higher too.
*
right side is usually lower to avoid beamin d opposite driver..
Rhadykall
post Dec 13 2011, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 13 2011, 02:05 AM)
same here. left side is slight higher too.
*
Mine quite obvious haha. Tried pushing the small reflector inside the lamp left right up down but no noticeable difference in trying to lower the brightness on the left.

QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 13 2011, 08:43 AM)
right side is usually lower to avoid beamin d opposite driver..
*
A friend did mention something about the left being brighter a bit but didn't know why. Checked gf's Persona after that but didn't notice any difference left and right. The NB+ sure made the difference VERY noticeable. Before this the left headlamp was tilted upwards which made it much worse. Even from near the beam can shine on those big signboards on highways I swear sweat.gif
poolcarpet
post Dec 13 2011, 10:59 AM

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the stock ori headlamp can be adjusted, there are 2 philips screws and you can adjust up-down left-right. if you've replaced with some local headlamp, those still can be adjusted up-down via a hex screw.

but someone suggested to swap the bulbs and see if it's the bulb being actually brighter or maybe just the headlamp reflector or plastic/glass cover not so cloudy/hazed on the left side?


QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 13 2011, 10:49 AM)
Mine quite obvious haha. Tried pushing the small reflector inside the lamp left right up down but no noticeable difference in trying to lower the brightness on the left.
A friend did mention something about the left being brighter a bit but didn't know why. Checked gf's Persona after that but didn't notice any difference left and right. The NB+ sure made the difference VERY noticeable. Before this the left headlamp was tilted upwards which made it much worse. Even from near the beam can shine on those big signboards on highways I swear sweat.gif
*
ILikePie
post Dec 13 2011, 11:44 AM

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Speaking of headlamps, how much for 1 pair? Mine already yellowish, quite blur and many small cracks cry.gif
Peekab0o
post Dec 13 2011, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 12 2011, 11:34 PM)
imho, hotbits piping is not really that practical for our kete kebal, and the price is so exp. bout 6xx for a aluminized mandrel bent not stainless steel. as our original piping route bends is not that much? furthermore some places like Everco produce mandrel bent alu piping for 1xx-2xx only.  hmm.gif
*
yeah i know if u plan to rojak and add in famous brands muffler and extractor the price also almost there 1k + lol.. might as well get one complete set PnP solve headache rather than like me gila boy run duno how many exhaust and halfcut shop to hunt for parts ler haha...


Added on December 13, 2011, 11:59 am
QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 13 2011, 11:44 AM)
Speaking of headlamps, how much for 1 pair? Mine already yellowish, quite blur and many small cracks cry.gif
*
your headlamp is which model saga/iswara ? I bought mine taiwan duno which brand i forgot in lowyat automotive garage .. RM 220 / pair .. LMST headlamp .

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 13 2011, 11:59 AM
Quazacolt
post Dec 13 2011, 12:35 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 13 2011, 11:57 AM)
yeah i know if u plan to rojak and add in famous brands muffler and extractor the price also almost there 1k + lol.. might as well get one complete set PnP solve headache rather than like me gila boy run duno how many exhaust and halfcut shop to hunt for parts ler haha...


Added on December 13, 2011, 11:59 am

your headlamp is which model saga/iswara ?  I bought mine taiwan duno which brand i forgot in lowyat automotive garage .. RM 220 / pair .. LMST headlamp .
*
PNP = port and polish?
Peekab0o
post Dec 13 2011, 02:36 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 13 2011, 12:35 PM)
PNP = port and polish?
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Plug and Play
lyordson
post Dec 13 2011, 02:43 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 13 2011, 11:57 AM)
yeah i know if u plan to rojak and add in famous brands muffler and extractor the price also almost there 1k + lol.. might as well get one complete set PnP solve headache rather than like me gila boy run duno how many exhaust and halfcut shop to hunt for parts ler haha...


Added on December 13, 2011, 11:59 am

your headlamp is which model saga/iswara ?  I bought mine taiwan duno which brand i forgot in lowyat automotive garage .. RM 220 / pair .. LMST headlamp .
*
i haven count in the hotbits muffler yet. another RM6xx. hotbits piping with hotbits muffler already RM12xx. plus hotbits header? RM5xx. total?
now my setup only cost RM1100 : pz header, pz piping, pz bullet, topcat muffler. sweat.gif


enthusiats only gila run around search for parts mar. flex.gif

This post has been edited by lyordson: Dec 13 2011, 02:51 PM
cyanboy
post Dec 13 2011, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 12 2011, 11:46 PM)
Recently installed Osram Nightbreaker+. The bulbs are bright as expected. Just one problem; left side seems way brighter. Any idea why? Or suggestions on how to fix this?
*
QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 13 2011, 02:05 AM)
same here. left side is slight higher too.
*
So now the problem is brighter or higher?
If one side is still brighter after switching bulbs, maybe the grounding? Cause many iswara taxi around my area one bright one dim... And their H4 bulb is on! If didn't notice you'll probably thought the bulb blow or what... So maybe grounding?

If want to adjust the height of the light spread then poolcarpet's advice is true... Stock headlamp can use phillips screwdriver and Bosch/Local lamp uses Hex screwdriver or Torx screwdriver...
QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 13 2011, 10:59 AM)
the stock ori headlamp can be adjusted, there are 2 philips screws and you can adjust up-down left-right. if you've replaced with some local headlamp, those still can be adjusted up-down via a hex screw.

but someone suggested to swap the bulbs and see if it's the bulb being actually brighter or maybe just the headlamp reflector or plastic/glass cover not so cloudy/hazed on the left side?
*
QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 13 2011, 03:12 AM)
Not press down the suspension system bro.. juz the spring ( the iron rods , press 2 iron rods together )

n yes bro.. the car is way lower now sad.gif ... so shud be spring wo... n is it change all 4 spring better or juz the rear ?

erm.. oraite bro... many thanx for the advise smile.gif


Added on December 13, 2011, 4:36 am
not phillips bro , some german brand ( not ori thou ) but it is HOD bro bukan halogen... and watt also follows standard H4 bro , I guess they maybe fix relay for 110W bulb..

still got that sound ar? hmm .. i had that kinda sound earlier... they changed the air con compressor belt , oil d compressor , change valve... basically its complete air cond service.. n tadaaa... no sound and super cool air cond.. but... d white smoke comes sad.gif ....


Added on December 13, 2011, 4:39 am
dayumn.. seriously? so far i din use over rated watt bulbs bro.. juz the standard for saga... shud be fine.. but must check again .. thanx for highlighting it mate smile.gif
*
Maybe relay? Try use branded Bosch one... RM8 per piece...
Complete air con service!!! rclxms.gif
This car baru 27000 km and air con level always 2 "clicks" from bottom only rclxub.gif

EDIT: Complete air con service causes white smoke? Did Aircon-Air-Intake to your Cold-Air-Intake is it? brows.gif

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 13 2011, 02:55 PM
Quazacolt
post Dec 13 2011, 02:59 PM

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QUOTE(lyordson @ Dec 13 2011, 02:43 PM)
i haven count in the hotbits muffler yet. another RM6xx. hotbits piping with hotbits muffler already RM12xx. plus hotbits header? RM5xx. total?
now my setup only cost RM1100 : pz header, pz piping, pz bullet, topcat muffler.  sweat.gif
enthusiats only gila run around search for parts mar. flex.gif
*
thats why.

i want something simple and works, even if it meant i have to pay more >_<

so confirming, hotbits good choice that fits my criteria ya? (quiet, and wont lose performance)
EnochKeng
post Dec 13 2011, 03:04 PM

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Wow this threat is still alive and kicking!! Go 4G1x smile.gif btw, about the muffler..just get Japan muffler with SR JASMA tag! why? The Japanese are doing their job! Right PeekaboO LOL!!
lyordson
post Dec 13 2011, 03:12 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 13 2011, 02:59 PM)
thats why.

i want something simple and works, even if it meant i have to pay more >_<

so confirming, hotbits good choice that fits my criteria ya? (quiet, and wont lose performance)
*
lol u pay whole lot more. my setup not simple meh? hands.gif @.@
Rhadykall
post Dec 13 2011, 04:16 PM

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Bumped into an ad selling below item. Thought about it, even tried opening the original part in LMST but then realized where to put the window switch hmm.gif

user posted image

Proton Saga Iswara LMST Armrest Console Box



P/S: As for the headlamp, switched L/R bulb just to see the same thing; L side is brighter than R side. Even before changing to Osram NB+ I noticed one side is brighter so now it's even more obvious.
poolcarpet
post Dec 13 2011, 04:30 PM

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Aren't those rectangle slots for the power window switch? The ones in the middle near the MUDAH watermark. I was thinking of getting one of these too but no time to go look, was planning to look at Brothers and see if they have any.

QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 13 2011, 04:16 PM)
Bumped into an ad selling below item. Thought about it, even tried opening the original part in LMST but then realized where to put the window switch hmm.gif

user posted image

Proton Saga Iswara LMST Armrest Console Box
P/S: As for the headlamp, switched L/R bulb just to see the same thing; L side is brighter than R side. Even before changing to Osram NB+ I noticed one side is brighter so now it's even more obvious.
*
Rhadykall
post Dec 13 2011, 04:36 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 13 2011, 04:30 PM)
Aren't those rectangle slots for the power window switch? The ones in the middle near the MUDAH watermark. I was thinking of getting one of these too but no time to go look, was planning to look at Brothers and see if they have any.
*
Thought of that too but does that mean we have to DIY cut it since our window switch is more to oval shaped?
poolcarpet
post Dec 13 2011, 04:39 PM

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oh... my 99 iswara power window switch looks like exact fit for those rectangle placeholders smile.gif maybe lmst have to customize a bit...

QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 13 2011, 04:36 PM)
Thought of that too but does that mean we have to DIY cut it since our window switch is more to oval shaped?
*
ILikePie
post Dec 13 2011, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 13 2011, 11:57 AM)
your headlamp is which model saga/iswara ?  I bought mine taiwan duno which brand i forgot in lowyat automotive garage .. RM 220 / pair .. LMST headlamp .
*
Yeah LMST. How long since you purchased? Still good condition? Does it come with smoked?
Rhadykall
post Dec 13 2011, 05:41 PM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 13 2011, 04:41 PM)
Yeah LMST. How long since you purchased? Still good condition? Does it come with smoked?
*
You're looking for a smoked one too huh? Same here hehe thumbup.gif
Peekab0o
post Dec 13 2011, 07:36 PM

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QUOTE(EnochKeng @ Dec 13 2011, 03:04 PM)
Wow this threat is still alive and kicking!! Go 4G1x smile.gif btw, about the muffler..just get Japan muffler with SR JASMA tag! why? The Japanese are doing their job! Right PeekaboO LOL!!
*
HAHA !!! Another guy poison success by me.. amazing by the sound and performance ... brows.gif .

QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 13 2011, 04:41 PM)
Yeah LMST. How long since you purchased? Still good condition? Does it come with smoked?
*
Yea it does... if not wrong smoked one cheaper ... i been using it for a year oledi still haven turn yellow good condition i bought from fellow forumer ...

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1141882&hl=

QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 13 2011, 05:41 PM)
You're looking for a smoked one too huh? Same here hehe thumbup.gif
*
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1141882&hl=

Find him.. friendly and fast seller... posted to me and sms me tracking number on next day itself ...
poolcarpet
post Dec 13 2011, 08:23 PM

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Any iswara (old model, not lmst) owner planning to change their headlight and want to sell old stock ori lamp, pls let me know. Mine has broken mountings and is movable now. Changed one to local headlamp but the light reflected is very bad so looking around for used stock ori lights. As long as not broken, a bit yellow or scratched not a problem. Thanks. wink.gif
ILikePie
post Dec 13 2011, 08:24 PM

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Fuiseh. Thanks Peekab0o. If smoked cheaper..then.. brows.gif
low yat 82
post Dec 13 2011, 09:27 PM

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QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 13 2011, 04:16 PM)
Bumped into an ad selling below item. Thought about it, even tried opening the original part in LMST but then realized where to put the window switch hmm.gif

user posted image

Proton Saga Iswara LMST Armrest Console Box
P/S: As for the headlamp, switched L/R bulb just to see the same thing; L side is brighter than R side. Even before changing to Osram NB+ I noticed one side is brighter so now it's even more obvious.
*
I got buy1 last week... but not suitable for saga lmst... d arm rest front part cannot fit into it coz been blocked near gear knob there.. need to cut it away...zzz..

i still hav mine unused in rear car...sheet..
Peekab0o
post Dec 13 2011, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 13 2011, 09:27 PM)
I got buy1 last week... but not suitable for saga lmst... d arm rest front part cannot fit into it coz been blocked near gear knob there.. need to cut it away...zzz..

i still hav mine unused in rear car...sheet..
*
eh never tell me tongue.gif i got buy one also ... fit perfectly in my LMST now i use to keep things inside now brows.gif
low yat 82
post Dec 13 2011, 09:47 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 13 2011, 09:31 PM)
eh never tell me  tongue.gif  i got buy one also ... fit perfectly in my LMST now i use to keep things inside now brows.gif
*
gosh...zzzzzz.. i saw there write proton iswara.. how come cannot fit..zzz
Peekab0o
post Dec 13 2011, 09:50 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 13 2011, 09:47 PM)
gosh...zzzzzz.. i saw there write proton iswara.. how come cannot fit..zzz
*
blink.gif ours diff kua... lmst hmm nvm saturday u see mine ... we take and compare see where wrong lol

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 13 2011, 09:50 PM
kevinlim001
post Dec 13 2011, 09:55 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 13 2011, 09:31 PM)
eh never tell me  tongue.gif  i got buy one also ... fit perfectly in my LMST now i use to keep things inside now brows.gif
*
can take gambar show show? brows.gif
Peekab0o
post Dec 13 2011, 10:47 PM

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QUOTE(kevinlim001 @ Dec 13 2011, 09:55 PM)
can take gambar show show?  brows.gif
*
Okay 2molo.. i dont have a good camera with me i use phone to take pics one so night pics are doh.gif
Codyx
post Dec 13 2011, 11:28 PM

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i get mine which is wood and leather alike red racing stiching and it matchs my interior perfectly yawn.gif


RM30
hammerclaw69
post Dec 14 2011, 02:52 AM

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Maybe relay? Try use branded Bosch one... RM8 per piece...
Complete air con service!!! rclxms.gif
This car baru 27000 km and air con level always 2 "clicks" from bottom only rclxub.gif

EDIT: Complete air con service causes white smoke? Did Aircon-Air-Intake to your Cold-Air-Intake is it? brows.gif
*

[/quote]


Yeah could be relay smile.gif , must try and see
2 clicks... if full nanti frozen ka? shocking.gif

yes bro , white smokes coming out from air cond vent and its dayumn cold... i brought 2 d same shop n he said outside air is sipping in ( already close the outside air intake ) he did some adjustment.. it is still givin white smoke but less edy...
oiks.. matila do aircon air intake 2 CAI tongue.gif ...
cyanboy
post Dec 14 2011, 02:36 PM

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Pic pic so can poison us mah...

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Thats cheap and worth the price! Pic pic... Where you get it?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

I use car 2 clicks only speed 1 or 2 even hot day... If got passenger then nearly half bar... (If night 2 clicks speed 1 I dy can sleep while driving) No doubt LMST air con is lots colder than waja and comparable to Wira...

These few days parents drive my car, FULL bar max speed doh.gif My wife kena abuse 3 days kaw kaw dy, I think when I got back the car sure got a lot of bruises to gao tim...
Oh? Can adjust one ah? Noted...

Air con to CAI?
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This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 14 2011, 02:37 PM
Chan320
post Dec 14 2011, 03:09 PM

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Wah,aircon to CAI....got any advantage or improvement??
Codyx
post Dec 14 2011, 04:18 PM

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You turn on aircon already give stress to your bearings already...how it give boast?

==

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This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 14 2011, 04:35 PM
Rhadykall
post Dec 14 2011, 04:55 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 14 2011, 04:18 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
HUWAARGHH so damn nice your interior colour combo! notworthy.gif
Codyx
post Dec 14 2011, 07:30 PM

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You guys got any recommendation for Radiator fan? mine was cheapo wan which vibrates so bad and noisy

wanted to change to silent yet not power consuming

tq
Lowenkreuz
post Dec 14 2011, 08:26 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 14 2011, 04:18 PM)
You turn on aircon already give stress to your bearings already...how it give boast?

==

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
I came......
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Codyx
post Dec 14 2011, 09:19 PM

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go grab em

Eneos @ Jusco Kepong

which the best on has been taken by me biggrin.gif

Sharing is caring ;P


Added on December 14, 2011, 9:21 pm
QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 14 2011, 04:55 PM)
HUWAARGHH so damn nice your interior colour combo! notworthy.gif
*
QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Dec 14 2011, 08:26 PM)
I came......
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
go to my Flickr more brows.gif

thankkiu des laugh.gif

This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 14 2011, 09:21 PM
cyanboy
post Dec 15 2011, 01:18 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 14 2011, 04:18 PM)
You turn on aircon already give stress to your bearings already...how it give boast?

==

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
Quite true... Minimal to no improvement lar... The hose so small also compared to CAI, mana boleh suck a lot of air wo?

QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 14 2011, 09:19 PM)
go grab em

Eneos @ Jusco Kepong

which the best on has been taken by me biggrin.gif

Sharing is caring ;P


Added on December 14, 2011, 9:21 pm
go to my Flickr more  brows.gif

thankkiu des laugh.gif
*
Eneos 1U selling also... Just saw it today... But didn't grab it...
Saving money for MyVi 2nd version/Saga FL series fog lamp...
Your interior doesn't look Proton to me... Great job over there rclxms.gif
DSV4600
post Dec 15 2011, 01:39 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 14 2011, 04:18 PM)
You turn on aircon already give stress to your bearings already...how it give boast?

==

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
I also got the same type of arm-rest... Hmmmmmm.
Chan320
post Dec 15 2011, 01:03 PM

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Anyone know how to remove the rear wiper??
poolcarpet
post Dec 15 2011, 02:11 PM

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Just unscrew the wiper arm nut, you may need to knock it a bit as it's probably hardened after all the years, but it's just a simple fit on the threads and locked using one nut.

If you're talking about removing everything, incl. the motor, it's done from inside, behind the boot door. Remove all the plastic boot clips, remove the plastic cover and you can see the motor there. I think 2-3 nuts holding that in place.

I'm thinking of removing mine, it's useless and the rear wiper arm just rusts so often even after changing.

QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 15 2011, 01:03 PM)
Anyone know how to remove the rear wiper??
*
Chan320
post Dec 15 2011, 02:54 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 15 2011, 02:11 PM)
Just unscrew the wiper arm nut, you may need to knock it a bit as it's probably hardened after all the years, but it's just a simple fit on the threads and locked using one nut.

If you're talking about removing everything, incl. the motor, it's done from inside, behind the boot door. Remove all the plastic boot clips, remove the plastic cover and you can see the motor there. I think 2-3 nuts holding that in place.

I'm thinking of removing mine, it's useless and the rear wiper arm just rusts so often even after changing.
*
There is a nut?? onkay,thanks bro biggrin.gif
poolcarpet
post Dec 15 2011, 03:22 PM

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yeah, on the rear wiper arm pivot, that's a cover. flip open the cover and there's a size 10 or 12 (can't remember) hex nut. Remove that with a spanner and then slowly wiggle the arm loose. You may need to be patient, or give it a dose of WD40 maybe. slow slow slow..... smile.gif


QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 15 2011, 02:54 PM)
There is a nut?? onkay,thanks bro  biggrin.gif
*
nfsu230190
post Dec 15 2011, 09:59 PM

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i plan to change my air intake from stock to apexi open pod..
Can someone list down what should i have?? Since if injection can plug only.. But mine carburator, how to plug??
Peekab0o
post Dec 15 2011, 10:06 PM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Dec 15 2011, 09:59 PM)
i plan to change my air intake from stock to apexi open pod..
Can someone list down what should i have?? Since if injection can plug only.. But mine carburator, how to plug??
*
Sure u wanna use open pod? Think twice...without a proper heatshield ... afternoon or as long the weather is hot u will feel the stress in acceleration .
Codyx
post Dec 15 2011, 10:22 PM

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agreed with peeka, tried CAI yet? it's 'Better' than openpod in terns of teory performance

just you have to get a 'better' filter to replace and wash it more in duration like normally did...worth it

p/s: 'Better' a.k.a K&N tongue.gif
nfsu230190
post Dec 15 2011, 10:47 PM

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hurm.. Do K&N have the round shape design for iswara carb ??

If want to install CAI, where to direct the hose ? To the stock elephone nose ??
Codyx
post Dec 15 2011, 11:47 PM

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yes sir....go access shop..they know...probably need to cut a bit...else get stock CAI form proton or somewhere or smalled hose than 3' aftermarkets
Peekab0o
post Dec 16 2011, 08:01 AM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Dec 15 2011, 10:47 PM)
hurm.. Do K&N have the round shape design for iswara carb ??

If want to install CAI, where to direct the hose ? To the stock elephone nose ??
*
The only way they usually route is at the left side of ur headlamp which means if u are standing infront of ur car it will be the lamp on the >> right . Sifu catacombs got sell 2inch cai hose where else aftermarket one 2.5inch or 3inch u need to squeeze in abit then probably make a hole at ur bumper for the outlet...

Yes K&N do have drop in model for our cars...

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=e-9199

Wash-able and reUse-able .
low yat 82
post Dec 16 2011, 10:33 AM

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do all these CAI really noticeable performance? m untill now still sceptical ab CAI...lol..didnt pasang yet dats y..
poolcarpet
post Dec 16 2011, 10:51 AM

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I'm totally sceptical about CAI in an iswara smile.gif

looks reason aside, the benefit of CAI is to have lower temperature air intake. The stock elephant nose cover (is that what you call it?) already has it's air intake towards the front of the engine bonnet. How much more cool air does the iswara need? Also iswara engine is very simple, no electronics involved (things like mass air flow sensor) so injecting 'cooler' air will not change any of the air/fuel mixture, maybe just add in a bit of oxygen molecules that's all.

To measure the real benefits of CAI, then one should do it scientifically:

1. Dyno the car, at least 3 times to get an average
2. Put on CAI, dyno the car again
3. Or even better, let's see how much REALLY COLD air can help, modify the elephant nose intake to have cool air (e.g. from aircond) feed into the engine, see how much of difference the cool air helps

If the results are not much different, then CAI is only a look and feel good modification for iswara smile.gif and possibly placebo effect thrown in too smile.gif

sorry no offense to any CAI enthusiasts here icon_rolleyes.gif

QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 16 2011, 10:33 AM)
do all these CAI really noticeable performance? m untill now still sceptical ab CAI...lol..didnt pasang yet dats y..
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 16 2011, 10:53 AM
Codyx
post Dec 16 2011, 10:54 AM

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Most modern cars or Honda i see have CAI installed...but they installed UNDER their engine...

btw is Factory default parts
Chan320
post Dec 16 2011, 01:09 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 16 2011, 10:33 AM)
do all these CAI really noticeable performance? m untill now still sceptical ab CAI...lol..didnt pasang yet dats y..
*
Yes,there is a difference between having one and not.....u try get one then drive one week,after tat u unplug the CAI u will feel the lack in power biggrin.gif

my CAI came lose few days ago and i felt like the car doesn't accelerate much as it used to even at night
Quazacolt
post Dec 16 2011, 02:28 PM

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QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 16 2011, 01:09 PM)
Yes,there is a difference between having one and not.....u try get one then drive one week,after tat u unplug the CAI u will feel the lack in power  biggrin.gif

my CAI came lose few days ago and i felt like the car doesn't accelerate much as it used to even at night
*
that is due to the CAI being faulty and not so much difference between CAI and stock. a better comparison is dyno between a fully functional CAI vs a fully functional stock
low yat 82
post Dec 16 2011, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 16 2011, 01:09 PM)
Yes,there is a difference between having one and not.....u try get one then drive one week,after tat u unplug the CAI u will feel the lack in power  biggrin.gif

my CAI came lose few days ago and i felt like the car doesn't accelerate much as it used to even at night
*
hmm...if like dat i also wan try try abit.. hmm.gif

can show any pic how to connect a? brothers got sell, rm30-40..

Codyx
post Dec 16 2011, 03:19 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 16 2011, 03:08 PM)
hmm...if like dat i also wan try try abit.. hmm.gif

can show any pic how to connect a? brothers got sell, rm30-40..
*
which brother is that? so cheap? last time they sell rm150 i shakehead.gif
low yat 82
post Dec 16 2011, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 16 2011, 03:19 PM)
which brother is that? so cheap? last time they sell rm150 i  shakehead.gif
*
? near my old klang road 1... i saw they put price rm 39.90 if not mistake..
Codyx
post Dec 16 2011, 04:43 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 16 2011, 04:41 PM)
? near my old klang road 1... i saw they put price rm 39.90 if not mistake..
*
i see...probably i need to replace mine since last accident....become square [ ] edi sweat.gif .LOLOL

tq!
Chan320
post Dec 16 2011, 06:14 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 16 2011, 02:28 PM)
that is due to the CAI being faulty and not so much difference between CAI and stock. a better comparison is dyno between a fully functional CAI vs a fully functional stock
*
haha....mine the hose i got it from an unused vacuum cleaner hose....just trying it out but it does have result even though its small...planning to switch to a larger diameter one soon smile.gif
cyanboy
post Dec 16 2011, 06:44 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 16 2011, 03:08 PM)
hmm...if like dat i also wan try try abit.. hmm.gif

can show any pic how to connect a? brothers got sell, rm30-40..
*
I can verify its true... its 39.90 I think... Stretchable up to 2m easily... It's Turbo hose stated on the box, but i guess can use also?

It even comes with two coloured rings and two tightener, no need buy separately.

Or if you want stock CAI like VERY VERY old proton saga one can get from here:
AME AUTO PARTS (PJ) SDN. BHD.
25, Jalan 21/11A SEA Park
Petaling Jaya 46300
Selangor.

It's a proton parts stockist. The CAI hose is not in production anymore and even the Proton parts shoppe in Glenmarie also habis stock since 2007... When I bought at RM60 (VERY expensive, if glenmarie only selling at RM51 in 2007), it doesn't even come with a fastener... Got the fasterner at another RM4... I just bought it last month...

The boss say still have "some" stocks for this... But I dunno now still have or not as I had posted the place at
Practical mods/add ons for saga iswara
poolcarpet
post Dec 16 2011, 06:50 PM

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hi all,

sorry i'm not trying to pour cold water in all the diy plans... but do you observe the shape of the stock air filter cover? notice it's not round and more like flattened oval shape?

could it be possible that the car engineers have done their airflow analysis and determined that to be the best size of the air intake for optimum performance? by changing the air intake to different hoses/curves/sizes, wouldn't it affect the airflow into the engine (possibly positive or negative effects....)

just something to think about... rclxub.gif

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 16 2011, 06:44 PM)
I can verify its true... its 39.90 I think... Stretchable up to 2m easily... It's Turbo hose stated on the box, but i guess can use also?

It even comes with two coloured rings and two tightener, no need buy separately.

Or if you want stock CAI like VERY VERY old proton saga one can get from here:
AME AUTO PARTS (PJ) SDN. BHD.
25, Jalan 21/11A SEA Park
Petaling Jaya 46300
Selangor.

It's a proton parts stockist. The CAI hose is not in production anymore and even the Proton parts shoppe in Glenmarie also habis stock since 2007... When I bought at RM60 (VERY expensive, if glenmarie only selling at RM51 in 2007), it doesn't even come with a fastener... Got the fasterner at another RM4... I just bought it last month...

The boss say still have "some" stocks for this... But I dunno now still have or not as I had posted the place at
Practical mods/add ons for saga iswara
*
Codyx
post Dec 16 2011, 06:52 PM

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that's why stock filter case is best and balanced intake....if you change to open pod hose the intake will become unbalanced and aided to one side only...which probably cause power lost on some occasions

stay clean open pod are mostly defaulted on injection(their injection trottle intake is designed to face on the left so open pod setting is right


Chan320
post Dec 16 2011, 11:09 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 16 2011, 06:50 PM)
hi all,

sorry i'm not trying to pour cold water in all the diy plans... but do you observe the shape of the stock air filter cover? notice it's not round and more like flattened oval shape?

could it be possible that the car engineers have done their airflow analysis and determined that to be the best size of the air intake for optimum performance? by changing the air intake to different hoses/curves/sizes, wouldn't it affect the airflow into the engine (possibly positive or negative effects....)

just something to think about... rclxub.gif
*
Well,this explanation is for those switching to open pod style,but for stock its better to add one or two CAI as the stock intake opening is just above the extractor and it sucks in hot air which means less oxygen for combustion. By adding a CAI u are introducing more oxygen into your air intake which results in better responds as well as better FC and also power smile.gif
no offence ya icon_rolleyes.gif
cyanboy
post Dec 17 2011, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 16 2011, 06:50 PM)
hi all,

sorry i'm not trying to pour cold water in all the diy plans... but do you observe the shape of the stock air filter cover? notice it's not round and more like flattened oval shape?

could it be possible that the car engineers have done their airflow analysis and determined that to be the best size of the air intake for optimum performance? by changing the air intake to different hoses/curves/sizes, wouldn't it affect the airflow into the engine (possibly positive or negative effects....)

just something to think about... rclxub.gif
*
You mean the intake there the hole? It's round I thought?
Well, i'm not sure of what the engineers thought of during design of LMST Air intake, cause it's without the stock hose connected to suck air from the fender part... But old sagas like 1990's all has the hose... That's the reason I got it... My first thought is the stock hose is removed to make it RM25k / RM27k hmm.gif

But still, no doubt that our ori air intake without the hose is kinda placed in the best position already... I just thought that maybe when air passes through the radiator part the air might be slight hotter... And when idling on jams where hot air is still inside the engine bay...

For the difference before and after add... Maybe i'll try to remove it next week and see how...
fleekreturn
post Dec 17 2011, 02:46 AM

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I've been using it for almost a year already, and all I can say is, the improvement is there in terms of power output, especially when wangan.
poolcarpet
post Dec 17 2011, 08:25 AM

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no offense icon_rolleyes.gif it's good discussion.

I know by theory yes, we introduce more oxygen in cooler air using CAI, but has it been scientifically proven by a before and after dyno test? otherwise, i always say, butt dyno is very prone to placebo effect.


QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 16 2011, 11:09 PM)
Well,this explanation is for those switching to open pod style,but for stock its better to add one or two CAI as the stock intake opening is just above the extractor and it sucks in hot air which means less oxygen for combustion. By adding a CAI u are introducing more oxygen into your air intake which results in better responds as well as better FC and also power  smile.gif
no offence ya   icon_rolleyes.gif
*

Added on December 17, 2011, 8:28 amSorry my bad, I thought it was oval shaped. Just noticed only the middle part is flattened oval, the air intake is round...

I found this photo of stock iswara,
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3siBmMhUGFw/SWmS...00/iswara-2.jpg

Then air intake is away from the radiator.

Then I found this:
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_dJ96CkkU8x0/SEib...8757+engine.JPG

So this 'CAI' is taking air even further away from the engine front area.....

Ok, I might give this a try and see any changes but I'm never going to dyno it so only relying on butt dyno

Found this RM25! boleh pakai?

http://www.mudah.my/Flexible+Air+Intake+Ho...25-11558739.htm

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 17 2011, 12:47 AM)
You mean the intake there the hole? It's round I thought?
Well, i'm not sure of what the engineers thought of during design of LMST Air intake, cause it's without the stock hose connected to suck air from the fender part... But old sagas like 1990's all has the hose... That's the reason I got it... My first thought is the stock hose is removed to make it RM25k / RM27k  hmm.gif

But still, no doubt that our ori air intake without the hose is kinda placed in the best position already... I just thought that maybe when air passes through the radiator part the air might be slight hotter... And when idling on jams where hot air is still inside the engine bay...

For the difference before and after add... Maybe i'll try to remove it next week and see how...
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 17 2011, 08:28 AM
Chan320
post Dec 17 2011, 08:51 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 17 2011, 08:25 AM)
can use,its the same one as sifu skywalker selling smile.gif
cyanboy
post Dec 17 2011, 10:06 AM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

The stock CAI I mentioned is on your second pic...
Rm25? Thats quite worth the money, brothers selling at 40 but longer though...
Dyno? Itu perlu tengok tengok lo...
poolcarpet
post Dec 17 2011, 10:36 AM

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Oh, you mean in some Iswaras the 2nd pic is stock??? Which model Iswara??

Dyno? smile.gif Yes, in any performance improvement mods, you need to dyno before and after, and only by changing ONE thing at a time. That's the only way you get to tell whether the mod helped.

A lot of so called performance/fuel improvement products have positive effects after installing cause at the time the mod is installed, some other work is also done, e.g. during service, change engine oil, change oil/air filter, change spark plugs, throw in a fuel enhancement device or improve power thingy, and suddenly driver said yes, i feel the difference, lighter throttle, faster acceleration.... erm.. ok, so the new engine oil/spark plugs/air filter doesn't contribute anything to the better feeling? smile.gif

I'm still of the opinion that most fuel enhancing/performance mods are placebo effect in nature, unless it's a major major thing costing thousands of RM... Otherwise, it's all feel good only smile.gif

icon_rolleyes.gif

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 17 2011, 10:06 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

The stock CAI I mentioned is on your second pic...
Rm25? Thats quite worth the money, brothers selling at 40 but longer though...
Dyno? Itu perlu tengok tengok lo...
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 17 2011, 10:37 AM
cyanboy
post Dec 17 2011, 12:21 PM

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Sorry I didn't make myself clear before...
user posted image
This is the CAI hose from stock proton sagas/iswaras before LMST design... Not sure whether LMSS has it though. Rare item now... Fits perfectly at the fender rectangular hole... I covered up the another circular hole with some double layer insulflex so the engine bay hot air won't mix with fender cold air... The position of this 1990 saga's CAI is quite good as it is protected from dust and water. (Unless you took your car for a dive) And the design at that time is by japan engineers... Personally I trust their design more...

Fuel saving/improvement all those I didn't even bother to give them a second look. Unless it's so called proven in terms of going dyno in your way... There's even those vacuum turbine thingy or CPU fan to be installed on air intake or something... Mostly are marketing gimicks only. Placebo effect is highly possble case over here. Nevetheless, some might work out of the blue though...

I will rather invest on Tufoil engine treatment or those manual/auto transmission treatment... But got snake oil problem, sudden stop using treatment then engine kong faster la... rclxub.gif
Bought X1-R engine treatment from Proton Parts Centre till now also din use, pricing enough for me to get a better gauge doh.gif
poolcarpet
post Dec 17 2011, 12:33 PM

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I have had Sagas in the 80s, Wira+Iswara from the 90s but none of them ever came with this stock CAI! It just stops at the end of that 'elephant' trunk. Where can I find this?? Might want to give it a try on my Iswara....


QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 17 2011, 12:21 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Sorry I didn't make myself clear before...
user posted image
This is the CAI hose from stock proton sagas/iswaras before LMST design... Not sure whether LMSS has it though. Rare item now... Fits perfectly at the fender rectangular hole... I covered up the another circular hole with some double layer insulflex so the engine bay hot air won't mix with fender cold air... The position of this 1990 saga's CAI is quite good as it is protected from dust and water. (Unless you took your car for a dive) And the design at that time is by japan engineers... Personally I trust their design more...

Fuel saving/improvement all those I didn't even bother to give them a second look. Unless it's so called proven in terms of  going dyno in your way... There's even those vacuum turbine thingy or CPU fan to be installed on air intake or something... Mostly are marketing gimicks only. Placebo effect is highly possble case over here. Nevetheless, some might work out of the blue though...

I will rather invest on Tufoil engine treatment or those manual/auto transmission treatment... But got snake oil problem, sudden stop using treatment then engine kong faster la... rclxub.gif
Bought X1-R engine treatment from Proton Parts Centre till now also din use, pricing enough for me to get a better gauge  doh.gif
*
cyanboy
post Dec 17 2011, 01:02 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 17 2011, 12:33 PM)
I have had Sagas in the 80s, Wira+Iswara from the 90s but none of them ever came with this stock CAI! It just stops at the end of that 'elephant' trunk. Where can I find this?? Might want to give it a try on my Iswara....
*
The answer is below:
QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 16 2011, 06:44 PM)
I can verify its true... its 39.90 I think... Stretchable up to 2m easily... It's Turbo hose stated on the box, but i guess can use also?

It even comes with two coloured rings and two tightener, no need buy separately.

Or if you want stock CAI like VERY VERY old proton saga one can get from here:
AME AUTO PARTS (PJ) SDN. BHD.
25, Jalan 21/11A SEA Park
Petaling Jaya 46300
Selangor.

It's a proton parts stockist. The CAI hose is not in production anymore and even the Proton parts shoppe in Glenmarie also habis stock since 2007... When I bought at RM60 (VERY expensive, if glenmarie only selling at RM51 in 2007), it doesn't even come with a fastener... Got the fasterner at another RM4... I just bought it last month...

The boss say still have "some" stocks for this... But I dunno now still have or not as I had posted the place at
Practical mods/add ons for saga iswara
*
Btw the item code in the receipt is MD108871, description is "DUCT, AIR CLEANER HOSE PVC", Model "SAGA,ISW 12V".
The last stockist with the hose... Or you can try Proton stockist near your area... Maybe they dun even realise they have it / make a profit out of this old old junk hose!
poolcarpet
post Dec 17 2011, 01:20 PM

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aaaaah..... maybe i can find one in ebay!!! smile.gif

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-Airduct-...1-/230589494516
fleekreturn
post Dec 17 2011, 04:15 PM

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I sold mine to one of the forumers past few months. I remembered posting up here but seems like no one is interested. Haha. Rare item~
poolcarpet
post Dec 17 2011, 05:04 PM

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here's another placebo effect 'turbonator' smile.gif

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-TURBONATOR-TU...#ht_2954wt_1139
lyordson
post Dec 17 2011, 08:03 PM

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QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 17 2011, 08:51 AM)
can use,its the same one as sifu skywalker selling  smile.gif
*
nope. skywalker's one is 2.5inch. aftermarket one is 3inch. too big already, need to mod heavily to fit in or rather impossible. just get skywalker's one enough.
DiamondBar
post Dec 18 2011, 12:53 AM

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I am afraid Proton Saga does not have front reinforcement steel bar,
who do you guys think? Please see the picture:


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
Codyx
post Dec 18 2011, 01:09 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 17 2011, 05:04 PM)
here's another placebo effect 'turbonator' smile.gif

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-TURBONATOR-TU...#ht_2954wt_1139
*
just use a coke tin to DIY one....spinning props is just to create turbulence....not need to spin wan fix also same...waste money

unless just for fun

btw, this reported retarding engine performance....so dun buy laugh.gif

This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 18 2011, 01:17 AM
cyanboy
post Dec 18 2011, 07:16 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 17 2011, 01:20 PM)
aaaaah..... maybe i can find one in ebay!!! smile.gif

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-Airduct-...1-/230589494516
*
Waliao-eh? Malaysia takde USA ada? doh.gif

QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 17 2011, 04:15 PM)
I sold mine to one of the forumers past few months. I remembered posting up here but seems like no one is interested. Haha. Rare item~
*
Well, I was very keen in finding it in Nov when I got the car, but I got the CAI on my first try... Sorry bro, would be nice if can deal with you.

QUOTE(DiamondBar @ Dec 18 2011, 12:53 AM)
I am afraid Proton Saga does not have front reinforcement steel bar,
who do you guys think?  Please see the picture:
*
I don't think we have that right?

QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 18 2011, 01:09 AM)
just use a coke tin to DIY one....spinning props is just to create turbulence....not need to spin wan fix also same...waste money

unless just for fun

btw, this reported retarding engine performance....so dun buy laugh.gif
*
Luckily it's reported... If not a lot more people will get conned.
fool1988
post Dec 18 2011, 10:57 PM

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Got few question want ask shifu:

1. My 4 absorber all gone, would like to ask if i always bring heavy stuff like stock in car, which absorber recommend? If Adjustable will be an advance?

2. Any workshop can recommend nearby Kajang / Bangi / Seri Kembangan / Dengkil area?

3. If lowerarm Rm200 include installation and is heavy duty worth? Satay brush Rm5 per one cheap?

4. Chamber nut adjust only Rm50 expensive?

5. I just change Sport Rim and new tayar recently and when i step brake i can feel the brake petal was shaking / vibrating...what is the problem? Some say spacer issue some say disc plate issue? How to determine?

6. When i corner to left side i can hear "Jit Jit Jit Jit" sound come from my rear tayar side what is the sound from? Isn't absorber or brake pump JAM? Or because 195/50/R15 with 5mm (maybe?) spacer touch something when cornering?
poolcarpet
post Dec 18 2011, 11:32 PM

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hi,

I changed my lowerarm before, proton original part RM150 each so per pair RM300 just for parts. For labor I brought to nearby tyre shop where I also changed 4x absorbers and they charged me RM100 for entire thing so I'm not sure how much normal labor is if just change lower arm.

hope this helps.


QUOTE(fool1988 @ Dec 18 2011, 10:57 PM)
3. If lowerarm Rm200 include installation and is heavy duty worth? Satay brush Rm5 per one cheap?
*
ILikePie
post Dec 18 2011, 11:49 PM

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Guys, any PU eyelids for LMST? brows.gif
low yat 82
post Dec 19 2011, 09:09 AM

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QUOTE(DiamondBar @ Dec 18 2011, 12:53 AM)
I am afraid Proton Saga does not have front reinforcement steel bar,
who do you guys think?  Please see the picture:
*
u mean this kind of bar ? http://www.mudah.my/Kangroo+BAR+Eterna+mod...ra-12268077.htm

anyway, d saga lmst do have steel plate at d bumper there to absorb super minor accident..
sun1989
post Dec 19 2011, 09:53 AM

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hi guys ... my iswara car lock alarm sometimes nt functioning.
anyone of you know the location of the remote receiver ?? something is definately wrong with it as I press my remote but nth happen. sometimes it just function suddenly..
low yat 82
post Dec 19 2011, 10:41 AM

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QUOTE(sun1989 @ Dec 19 2011, 09:53 AM)
hi guys ... my iswara car lock alarm sometimes nt functioning.
anyone of you know the location of the remote receiver ?? something is definately wrong with it as I press my remote but nth happen. sometimes it just function suddenly..
*
change battery d?
cyanboy
post Dec 19 2011, 07:37 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 19 2011, 09:09 AM)
u mean this kind of bar ? http://www.mudah.my/Kangroo+BAR+Eterna+mod...ra-12268077.htm

anyway, d saga lmst do have steel plate at d bumper there to absorb super minor accident..
*
Add those bar on iswara? Need to check whether nice or not le. But not that good if banging people on their back, sure kena their rear bonnet kau kau...

Maybe install on back of LMST, then no need scare kena bang+damage banger's car kau kau. rclxms.gif

QUOTE(sun1989 @ Dec 19 2011, 09:53 AM)
hi guys ... my iswara car lock alarm sometimes nt functioning.
anyone of you know the location of the remote receiver ?? something is definately wrong with it as I press my remote but nth happen. sometimes it just function suddenly..
*
QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 19 2011, 10:41 AM)
change battery d?
*
Try change battery first as suggested. Location of alarm box is at driver's side accelerator pedal there. It's on the right of the accelerator pedal. Just need to pull the carpet on the right then can see dy. A black box, on top of it sticked with a copper wire insulated with silicon-ish insulation. The wire is it's antenna. Read somewhere before try to straighten it hmm.gif (Check with uncle google)

If last time can activate alarm very far but now very near only can activate/not functioning, its battery.
If last time can activate alarm but need to be very near to car's body, after change battery also like that, then open up your remote. You'll notice something which can be turned with a precision screwdriver. Thats some sort of capacitor which can adjust transmitting power/range/wavelength or some sort of stuffs. Turn a little (Like 1mm) at a time and press the button until you get the max range or desired range. You may need to try a few complete turns only can get.

My family waja used to need to touch the car body's only can activate alarm with new battery, after adjusting the capacitor, now can range more than 5-8 meters easily (stock alarm). From McD second floor to opposite road side parking icon_rolleyes.gif

But i'm not sure whether will consume remote battery faster as need more transmitting power, but currently don't have this problem yet. Few years already heavily used the GP battery still main tahan. Maybe because just need to press less than 1 sec per time as the remote signal is strong, compared to my LMST which need to press 2-3 sec near car only can get it activate, which will waste the battery more. I had adjusted my LMST remote, only managed to get 2meters max doh.gif , not thinking of changing battery yet (It's like RM8 per piece!)
sinister_sid
post Dec 20 2011, 12:08 AM

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pasang what old the same
our saga technology dated back to 80's
so the rigidly at 80's is superiour but compare with nowdays its pathetic
even mine old saga with metal rear bumper a light smash from behind the metal deform around the rear fllorpan and rear side door
chasis realignment is require
in fact the toyota wish that smash me only suffer minor bumper damage and headlight cracked doh.gif
hammerclaw69
post Dec 20 2011, 07:05 AM

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[quote=cyanboy,Dec 14 2011, 02:36 PM]
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Pic pic so can poison us mah...

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Thats cheap and worth the price! Pic pic... Where you get it?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

I use car 2 clicks only speed 1 or 2 even hot day... If got passenger then nearly half bar... (If night 2 clicks speed 1 I dy can sleep while driving) No doubt LMST air con is lots colder than waja and comparable to Wira...

These few days parents drive my car, FULL bar max speed doh.gif My wife kena abuse 3 days kaw kaw dy, I think when I got back the car sure got a lot of bruises to gao tim...
Oh? Can adjust one ah? Noted...

Air con to CAI?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*

[/quote]


Wallauweh.. Air Con to CAI biggrin.gif .. awesome!!!!
Peekab0o
post Dec 20 2011, 07:56 AM

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Argh... struggling to maintain my arse not to swing... haiz.. facing handling issues... for the rear HELP ~~~~~
Quazacolt
post Dec 20 2011, 09:51 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 20 2011, 07:56 AM)
Argh... struggling to maintain my arse not to swing... haiz.. facing handling issues... for the rear HELP ~~~~~
*
i faced that sometimes too, but thats mainly due to shitty tires and cheapo kyb oil abs. and by tires, i mean one thats made in 2008 wk20 while the other in 2009, really ticking time bombs waiting to change sweat.gif
poolcarpet
post Dec 20 2011, 10:24 AM

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another reason is of course the speed... at what speed are we talking about here? drool.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 20 2011, 09:51 AM)
i faced that sometimes too, but thats mainly due to shitty tires and cheapo kyb oil abs. and by tires, i mean one thats made in 2008 wk20 while the other in 2009, really ticking time bombs waiting to change  sweat.gif
*
low yat 82
post Dec 20 2011, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 20 2011, 07:56 AM)
Argh... struggling to maintain my arse not to swing... haiz.. facing handling issues... for the rear HELP ~~~~~
*
lol..nice try la.. i guess few reason y it happen:

- too fas speed , generatin too much lateral force at back
- front tyre grip is far mroe superior than rear
- too much tayar air pressure at back
- etc??

i guess havin better rear grip is far more important, coz if spin, vry difficult to control , high possibility to spun out of track. at least if understeer, d mistake still can b corrected by applyin more steerin rotation or lettin go fuel pedal or applyin brake.
Peekab0o
post Dec 20 2011, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 20 2011, 10:24 AM)
another reason is of course the speed... at what speed are we talking about here?  drool.gif
*
80 km/h ~ into a sharp S turn not a normal chicane .

QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 20 2011, 10:28 AM)
lol..nice try la.. i guess few reason y it happen:

- too fas speed , generatin too much lateral force at back
- front tyre grip is far mroe superior than rear
- too much tayar air pressure at back
- etc??

i guess havin better rear grip is far more important, coz if spin, vry difficult to control , high possibility to spun out of track. at least if understeer, d mistake still can b corrected by applyin more steerin rotation or lettin go fuel pedal or applyin brake.
*
front tyre grip more superior hmm.. still monitoring ... after i reduce the pressure to 32 psi.. whacking at 80 isnt a problem already but still it swings lol... haha i spin out when qualifying maa.. dem... that time was at 36 psi... wanna settle my brake now ... oledi asked james to find ventilated rotors ... icon_idea.gif


DaBestOne
post Dec 20 2011, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Dec 20 2011, 12:08 AM)

in fact the toyota wish that smash me only suffer minor bumper damage and headlight cracked  doh.gif
*
But I tot saga very KERAS one... no? hmm.gif
Quazacolt
post Dec 20 2011, 03:17 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 20 2011, 10:24 AM)
another reason is of course the speed... at what speed are we talking about here?  drool.gif
*
ah yes well between 60-100 ish la give/take sweat.gif
poolcarpet
post Dec 20 2011, 05:12 PM

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60-100 MPH? drool.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 20 2011, 03:17 PM)
ah yes well between 60-100 ish la give/take  sweat.gif
*
Quazacolt
post Dec 20 2011, 06:48 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 20 2011, 05:12 PM)
60-100 MPH?  drool.gif
*
proton uses metric ok rolleyes.gif
poolcarpet
post Dec 20 2011, 07:16 PM

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haha... ok seriously, if back tyre is loosing grip - are the front tyres newer/better grip than the rear? i've read that if you are going to change 2 tyres for example, the NEW tyre should go to the back. most tyre shops would recommend to put new tyres in front, but it's actually more important for the rear wheels to have better grip than the front....
Quazacolt
post Dec 20 2011, 07:25 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 20 2011, 07:16 PM)
haha... ok seriously, if back tyre is loosing grip - are the front tyres newer/better grip than the rear? i've read that if you are going to change 2 tyres for example, the NEW tyre should go to the back. most tyre shops would recommend to put new tyres in front, but it's actually more important for the rear wheels to have better grip than the front....
*
well my front tires are a pair of new yokohama a drive, so yea, front grip is far and beyond better than my rears.

if rear is more important than front, why shops still recommend that people put the new tires in front? because of higher tread wear or what?
poolcarpet
post Dec 20 2011, 07:36 PM

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i don't know why... simple reasoning will tell you that rear tires with less grip is very dangerous cause you will slide easily when you turn/corner. for front tires, at least you can still steer it around... it's probably a common practice where people don't stop to think for a while... and possibly also because if you put new tires in front, you can avoid changing the rear tires for a bit more since the wear in front is much much higher than the back...

these reputable websites will explain why:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/4243992
http://www.cartalk.com/content/why-should-...o-back-find-out

so in your case, why don't you try swapping the front & rear tires and see how it goes? if still not good, probably time to look at the absorber or maybe you need to slow down a bit smile.gif





QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 20 2011, 07:25 PM)
well my front tires are a pair of new yokohama a drive, so yea, front grip is far and beyond better than my rears.

if rear is more important than front, why shops still recommend that people put the new tires in front? because of higher tread wear or what?
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 20 2011, 07:36 PM
Codyx
post Dec 20 2011, 07:49 PM

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My car have been choking badly since 1-2 month when accelerates....a foreman say the plug cable and plug need to change, but my spark plug i checked the heart still got alot and plug cable all tested with a electronic tools all got connection....did what i do correct?

someone please help me rectify/experienced such problem before, i don't want waste money change both of them but no cure

tqtq
jason1986
post Dec 20 2011, 09:12 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 20 2011, 07:49 PM)
My car have been choking badly since 1-2 month when accelerates....a foreman say the plug cable and plug need to change, but my spark plug i checked the heart still got alot and plug cable all tested with a electronic tools all got connection....did what i do correct?

someone please help me rectify/experienced such problem before, i don't want waste money change both of them but no cure

tqtq
*
The other time my car was choking, it was the plugs. new plugs. less than 2 weeks. one of it is defective. just change the plugs. not too expensive ma.
Codyx
post Dec 20 2011, 11:12 PM

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thanks kiu~
the_catacombs
post Dec 20 2011, 11:45 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 20 2011, 10:28 AM)
i guess havin better rear grip is far more important, coz if spin, vry difficult to control , high possibility to spun out of track. at least if understeer, d mistake still can b corrected by applyin more steerin rotation or lettin go fuel pedal or applyin brake.
*
if understeer u apply more brakes, u more hailat... the only method to counter understeer is to release throttle and flick ur steering facing straight... the more u turn, the more it looses grip....

having better front or rear is individual preference... to me i prefer oversteer... at least i am able to counter steer to control the car... in understeer situation, u just have to sit out and wait for the front tyres to regain grip...

QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 20 2011, 12:48 PM)
80 km/h ~ into a sharp S turn not a normal chicane .
front tyre grip more superior hmm.. still monitoring ... after i reduce the pressure to 32 psi.. whacking at 80 isnt a problem already but still it swings lol... haha i spin out when qualifying maa.. dem... that time was at 36 psi... wanna settle my brake now ... oledi asked james to find ventilated rotors ...  icon_idea.gif
*
suspension plays a big role in improving ur handling... huge bodyroll and front squat can cause oversteer as well... its all about weight shifting...

what suspension u currently using??.. tyres??...

QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 20 2011, 07:16 PM)
haha... ok seriously, if back tyre is loosing grip - are the front tyres newer/better grip than the rear? i've read that if you are going to change 2 tyres for example, the NEW tyre should go to the back. most tyre shops would recommend to put new tyres in front, but it's actually more important for the rear wheels to have better grip than the front....
*
new tyres should go to the front as both propulsion and braking is done by ur front tyres... ur rear tyres are just rolling wheel... grip is not needed on rear wheel for FF layout...

btw, grip and traction is 2 different thing...

QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 20 2011, 07:49 PM)
My car have been choking badly since 1-2 month when accelerates....a foreman say the plug cable and plug need to change, but my spark plug i checked the heart still got alot and plug cable all tested with a electronic tools all got connection....did what i do correct?

someone please help me rectify/experienced such problem before, i don't want waste money change both of them but no cure

tqtq
*
what u mean checked the sparkplug heart??.. any photos of ur sparkplug??...
check ur distributor and carburetor as well...
Codyx
post Dec 20 2011, 11:52 PM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Dec 20 2011, 11:45 PM)
what u mean checked the sparkplug heart??.. any photos of ur sparkplug??...
check ur distributor and carburetor as well...
*
sparkplug heart look ok, measured with the gap tools, distributer just changed the spinner and cap as well brand new, carburator use cleaning spray to clean DIY....still choke like hell...last foreman say is either Plug Cable or Spark Plug Problem, just want to rectify is him still correct after my own inspection above sweat.gif sweat.gif


Added on December 20, 2011, 11:59 pmsparkplug used 5000-6000km i guess ngk cheap plugs

This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 20 2011, 11:59 PM
the_catacombs
post Dec 21 2011, 12:01 AM

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perhaps ur carburetor need thorough servicing... removing every part and flushing every port and hole to clear any dirt and dust... change ur fuel filter as well...
Codyx
post Dec 21 2011, 12:09 AM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Dec 21 2011, 12:01 AM)
perhaps ur carburetor need thorough servicing... removing every part and flushing every port and hole to clear any dirt and dust... change ur fuel filter as well...
*
omg....how much will that cost?...normally if sparkplugs damage can see visually right?
the_catacombs
post Dec 21 2011, 12:53 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 21 2011, 12:09 AM)
omg....how much will that cost?...normally if sparkplugs damage can see visually right?
*
yes... got picture??.. but if used long time already better change new one... afterall, oem spark plug not expensive...
Codyx
post Dec 21 2011, 01:43 AM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Dec 21 2011, 12:53 AM)
yes... got picture??.. but if used long time already better change new one... afterall, oem spark plug not expensive...
*
tomorrow i will change spark plugs first....since they are cheap...if they solve the choke i will update here and post the pic of old plugs, hopefully la

normally normal spark plugs can run how many mileage?
sinister_sid
post Dec 21 2011, 02:01 AM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Dec 20 2011, 11:45 PM)
if understeer u apply more brakes, u more hailat... the only method to counter understeer is to release throttle and flick ur steering facing straight... the more u turn, the more it looses grip....

having better front or rear is individual preference... to me i prefer oversteer... at least i am able to counter steer to control the car... in understeer situation, u just have to sit out and wait for the front tyres to regain grip...
suspension plays a big role in improving ur handling... huge bodyroll and front squat can cause oversteer as well... its all about weight shifting...

what suspension u currently using??.. tyres??...
new tyres should go to the front as both propulsion and braking is done by ur front tyres... ur rear tyres are just rolling wheel... grip is not needed on rear wheel for FF layout...

btw, grip and traction is 2 different thing...
what u mean checked the sparkplug heart??.. any photos of ur sparkplug??...
check ur distributor and carburetor as well...
*
ini unker mia banyak lama liaw doh.gif
fleekreturn
post Dec 21 2011, 02:53 AM

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Simple vid on how to react when oversteer / understeer by Michelin.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svHXfHqM6EY&feature=related

This post has been edited by fleekreturn: Dec 21 2011, 02:54 AM
DSV4600
post Dec 21 2011, 10:23 AM

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One of my projects for 2012 will be the upgrading of my LMST brake system. Wondering what should be done and where to do it.
Can anyone recommend the following:

1) What needs to be upgraded / what's the best branded parts to be used to achieve maximum braking performance?
(looking for PNP parts, trying to avoid too much custom modification)
- Brake servo / Master pump
- Braking hose
- Calipers
- Rotors
- Pads
- Rear brake system? Salvage from which car is the best?
- Should use 1-pot or 2-pot systems?

2) How much will it cost for each of the parts above?
3) Where is the best workshops to do it?
4) Is it safe to use 2nd hand parts?
5) Possible to install ABS system?
6) Can still use 14' rims?

Hope to receive as much feedback as possible as planning to do this before Dato Sagor race day...
Codyx
post Dec 21 2011, 07:53 PM

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Changed Plugs x4 and problem solved, most foreman say impossible carburator choke.....1% chances...LOL.....lucky distributer board not fried rclxms.gif

This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 21 2011, 11:54 PM
Quazacolt
post Dec 21 2011, 11:31 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


thanks for the info, they do make sense no doubt, and i guess it comes down to a preference where you prefer to deal with over or understeer (touch wood IF it happens la)

though as you/other forumers posted, probably better to just slow down, or upgrade better handling such as better tires/absorbers/suspension etc. im really considering upgrading my 13" rims/tires to 15" XD

then if got cash to spare, upgrade the absorbers too lol


Added on December 21, 2011, 11:32 pm
QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 21 2011, 02:53 AM)
Simple vid on how to react when oversteer / understeer by Michelin.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svHXfHqM6EY&feature=related
*
haha michelin man tells you to put new tires in rear XD

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Dec 21 2011, 11:32 PM
ronaldet
post Dec 21 2011, 11:52 PM

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user posted image

Event Name:
PROTON car club gathering (Mega TT)

Time:
30th DEC 2011(Friday, 8pm-1am)

Venue:
USJ 19 Digital Mall (The 19 USJ Mall)

Invited PROTON Clubs:
1) Proton Satria GTi
2) Proton Satria Neo
3) Proton Satria Neo R3
4) Proton Satria Neo CPS
5) Proton Saga BLM
6) Proton Saga Iswara
7) Proton Coupe

Special GUEST:
10 Autoshow Cars by Team Impact

Supporting Booth:
1) Detail Shine (Car Detailer - Main Sponsor)
2) Dworks (Performance Garage)
3) Proton (Representatives from Centre of Execellence, HICOM)
4) Waxco
5) Works Engineering
6) Zenden

Photography Competition:
*To all photographers only*
Upload ALL the pictures on Facebook and get the most 'LIKE' from the BEST picture taken during the event and walk away with the GRAND PRIZE!!


*p/s - Each participating cars will definitely receive a Free Coupon/Voucher (by Detail Shine).


So, what are you waiting for??

Do not hesitate to call/sms/whatsapp me at 017-2903038 for more info.

Hope to see you there. Thx smile.gif

Facebook Page
hammerclaw69
post Dec 21 2011, 11:56 PM

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POISON POISON POISON


Saga/Iswara Side Mirro with LED turn signal biggrin.gif

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=261...3&type=1&ref=nf
hammerclaw69
post Dec 22 2011, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 20 2011, 07:49 PM)
My car have been choking badly since 1-2 month when accelerates....a foreman say the plug cable and plug need to change, but my spark plug i checked the heart still got alot and plug cable all tested with a electronic tools all got connection....did what i do correct?

someone please help me rectify/experienced such problem before, i don't want waste money change both of them but no cure

tqtq
*
Use Iridium spark plug lor... u get more power and fuel saving.. less misfiring
Codyx
post Dec 22 2011, 12:23 AM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 22 2011, 12:03 AM)
Use Iridium spark plug lor... u get more power and fuel saving.. less misfiring
*
*dompet pecah*

cry.gif
the_catacombs
post Dec 22 2011, 12:44 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 21 2011, 01:43 AM)
normally normal spark plugs can run how many mileage?
*
i change mine after 2-3 months... standard sparkplugs only... but modified laa.. can give similar ummph compare to bosch super4 and platinum plugs... brows.gif

QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Dec 21 2011, 02:01 AM)
ini unker mia banyak lama liaw  doh.gif
*
fook ahsid...

QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Dec 21 2011, 10:23 AM)
One of my projects for 2012 will be the upgrading of my LMST brake system. Wondering what should be done and where to do it.
Can anyone recommend the following:

1) What needs to be upgraded / what's the best branded parts to be used to achieve maximum braking performance?
(looking for PNP parts, trying to avoid too much custom modification)
- Brake servo / Master pump
- Braking hose
- Calipers
- Rotors
- Pads
- Rear brake system? Salvage from which car is the best?
- Should use 1-pot or 2-pot systems?

2) How much will it cost for each of the parts above?
3) Where is the best workshops to do it?
4) Is it safe to use 2nd hand parts?
5) Possible to install ABS system?
6) Can still use 14' rims?

Hope to receive as much feedback as possible as planning to do this before Dato Sagor race day...
*
1) vr4 double layer servo, steel braided brake hose, rvr calipers n rotor, rapidstop brake pads.... single pot should be sufficient....
2) rvr brake set should cost u around rm350-rm400... vr4 double layer servo about rm150...
3) yes... service ur caliper thoroughly... make sure ur disc rotor isnt warped and thick enough to clear minimum thickness requirement....
4) nope... at least it is not plug and play....
5) most single pot can clear 14" rim... twinpot minimum needs 15" rim....

This post has been edited by the_catacombs: Dec 22 2011, 12:46 AM
Codyx
post Dec 22 2011, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Dec 22 2011, 12:44 AM)
i change mine after 2-3 months... standard sparkplugs only... but modified laa.. can give similar ummph compare to bosch super4 and platinum plugs...  brows.gif
*
how to do 'ummph' plugs? tutorials please.... drool.gif

Side Gapped? flex.gif
DSV4600
post Dec 22 2011, 02:28 AM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 21 2011, 11:56 PM)
POISON POISON POISON
Saga/Iswara Side Mirro with LED turn signal biggrin.gif

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=261...3&type=1&ref=nf
*
Basket, poison me kau-kau in the middle of the night...
I feel like group buy already!!! Who else is interested?
cyanboy
post Dec 22 2011, 07:46 AM

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QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Dec 22 2011, 02:28 AM)
Basket, poison me kau-kau in the middle of the night...
I feel like group buy already!!! Who else is interested?
*
Midnight poison eh? drool.gif
Pricing not stated?
DSV4600
post Dec 22 2011, 09:56 AM

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From all the pictures & posts on the page, I see the price is around RM175 - RM250. Will find out the price after New Year 2012!
[kuaLe]_AGX
post Dec 22 2011, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 22 2011, 12:23 AM)
*dompet pecah*

cry.gif
*
platinum plug also enough

since i change the plug i rarely heard the iswara trademark "marble in a can" sounds coming out biggrin.gif
DaBestOne
post Dec 22 2011, 01:49 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 22 2011, 12:23 AM)
*dompet pecah*

cry.gif
*
Beli dompet baru tongue.gif
cyanboy
post Dec 22 2011, 01:52 PM

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I had seen people DIY cut-off fuel pump thingy as extra security for "el-cheapo" alarm...
But iswara LMST uses ancient mechanical fuel pump right?

Can I use this wire and add a switch to thid connector to enable/disable the "thing"?
When I installed my vacuum meter, I plug out the connector as it's blocking my installation.
But I forgotten to plug it in and attempted to start the car... The car cranks but engine doesn't start. Attempted like 5 mins only found out didn't plug in this connector.

What is this wire for?
This connector near air filter:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The plug wire leads to here:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



EDIT:
Another extra ques... What is this port for? It's under our driver side dashboard...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 22 2011, 05:50 PM
Codyx
post Dec 22 2011, 04:49 PM

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Successfully Modded my Spark Plugs biggrin.gif......obvious instant Horsepower Boost!
Quazacolt
post Dec 22 2011, 09:26 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 22 2011, 04:49 PM)
Successfully Modded my Spark Plugs biggrin.gif......obvious instant Horsepower Boost!
*
what kinda mods? o_O
the_catacombs
post Dec 23 2011, 02:16 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 22 2011, 12:47 AM)
how to do 'ummph' plugs? tutorials please.... drool.gif

Side Gapped? flex.gif
*
yeap

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 22 2011, 01:52 PM)
I had seen people DIY cut-off fuel pump thingy as extra security for "el-cheapo" alarm...
But iswara LMST uses ancient mechanical fuel pump right?

Can I use this wire and add a switch to thid connector to enable/disable the "thing"?
When I installed my vacuum meter, I plug out the connector as it's blocking my installation.
But I forgotten to plug it in and attempted to start the car... The car cranks but engine doesn't start. Attempted like 5 mins only found out didn't plug in this connector.

What is this wire for?
This connector near air filter:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The plug wire leads to here:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

EDIT:
Another extra ques... What is this port for? It's under our driver side dashboard...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
its for the carburetor... nothing to do with the fuel... but i got no idea how it works la... hahaha...
hammerclaw69
post Dec 23 2011, 05:07 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 22 2011, 12:23 AM)
*dompet pecah*

cry.gif
*
dompet pecah true but it last long bro, more power as well lor...


Added on December 23, 2011, 5:12 am
QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Dec 22 2011, 02:28 AM)
Basket, poison me kau-kau in the middle of the night...
I feel like group buy already!!! Who else is interested?
*
Sorry Boss , Just share afta me kena poison hehe... poison pun must share mah biggrin.gif ... cool things though

This post has been edited by hammerclaw69: Dec 23 2011, 05:12 AM
low yat 82
post Dec 23 2011, 08:29 AM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Dec 20 2011, 11:45 PM)
if understeer u apply more brakes, u more hailat... the only method to counter understeer is to release throttle and flick ur steering facing straight... the more u turn, the more it looses grip....

having better front or rear is individual preference... to me i prefer oversteer... at least i am able to counter steer to control the car... in understeer situation, u just have to sit out and wait for the front tyres to regain grip...
suspension plays a big role in improving ur handling... huge bodyroll and front squat can cause oversteer as well... its all about weight shifting...

*
huhu.. if kau kau understeer ur method said is absolute correct. cannot do anythin at all..lol.

but for normal understeer its more easier to correct for majority driver coz slowin down n givin more steerin feed is driver habit. u different maaa..u taiko touge. can drift mia rclxm9.gif rclxm9.gif
yewwing
post Dec 23 2011, 10:02 AM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 23 2011, 08:29 AM)
huhu.. if kau kau understeer ur method said is absolute correct. cannot do anythin at all..lol.

but for normal understeer its more easier to correct for majority driver coz slowin down n givin more steerin feed is driver habit. u different maaa..u taiko touge. can drift mia  rclxm9.gif  rclxm9.gif
*
how is ur IMP absorber?
oneoone1o1
post Dec 23 2011, 11:23 AM

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Hi people, can I have some suggestion of reasonable places to service my >10 yr old iswara around kl? Thanks ahead for any of your input smile.gif
low yat 82
post Dec 23 2011, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(yewwing @ Dec 23 2011, 10:02 AM)
how is ur IMP absorber?
*
hahaha!! alo~~

vry nice. much stable than when i coupled sport spring wit stock absorber..huhu. but wit stock height, can feel d front tayar struggle alot..haha. got pro n con lo




Peekab0o
post Dec 23 2011, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 23 2011, 11:37 AM)
hahaha!! alo~~

vry nice. much stable than when i coupled sport spring wit stock absorber..huhu. but wit stock height, can feel d front tayar struggle alot..haha. got pro n con lo
*
I believe your car can do wheelie miaa brows.gif front can angkat ..
Codyx
post Dec 23 2011, 11:44 AM

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LMST stock rear absorber is hard type or soft type? because when i got the ride from previous owner all abs are hard i very like....but dunno what model they are...all black color

now rear going to kong edi want to know what to change

tqtq
DaBestOne
post Dec 23 2011, 11:46 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 22 2011, 04:49 PM)
Successfully Modded my Spark Plugs biggrin.gif......obvious instant Horsepower Boost!
*
Add on how many horses? tongue.gif
poolcarpet
post Dec 23 2011, 11:49 AM

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Shell petrol station service centers! smile.gif I go there for normal engine oil change service. Depends on what you want to do I guess, something more major, maybe want to look around and ask friends for contacts.

QUOTE(oneoone1o1 @ Dec 23 2011, 11:23 AM)
Hi people, can I have some suggestion of reasonable places to service my >10 yr old iswara around kl? Thanks ahead for any of your input smile.gif
*
Codyx
post Dec 23 2011, 12:01 PM

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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Dec 23 2011, 11:46 AM)
Add on how many horses? tongue.gif
*
few pony gua tongue.gif


Added on December 23, 2011, 12:02 pm
QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 23 2011, 11:49 AM)
Shell petrol station service centers! smile.gif I go there for normal engine oil change service. Depends on what you want to do I guess, something more major, maybe want to look around and ask friends for contacts.
*
going to change oil today..yesterday sapu magnatec 10-40 8x per bottle LOL

This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 23 2011, 12:02 PM
poolcarpet
post Dec 23 2011, 01:52 PM

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i read that magnatec does not do what it claims to do..... you didn't buy it because it claims to be able to 'stick' to the pistons reducing startup wear and tear, did you?

QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 23 2011, 12:01 PM)
going to change oil today..yesterday sapu magnatec 10-40 8x per bottle LOL
*
Quazacolt
post Dec 23 2011, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 23 2011, 01:52 PM)
i read that magnatec does not do what it claims to do..... you didn't buy it because it claims to be able to 'stick' to the pistons reducing startup wear and tear, did you?
*
lol good one.

imho liqui moly is amongst the best for my almost 12 years old proton iswara thumbup.gif
expensive, but definitely worth it
llJasell
post Dec 23 2011, 03:02 PM

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Hey guys... I've got a ques...
I changed my spark plug about a month ago. Those are only cheap spark plugs about RM12 per set. The thing is that I felt the increase in pick up for like a week but it became slow and a bit unresponsive after that. So what should I do??
Peekab0o
post Dec 23 2011, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 23 2011, 02:20 PM)
lol good one.

imho liqui moly is amongst the best for my almost 12 years old proton iswara  thumbup.gif
expensive, but definitely worth it
*
Imho Liqui Moly is towards engine protection ... it kinda somehow keep your engine quiet and protect the internals with thier MOS2 technology... used it ... loved how smooth and quiet engine was... then .. changed to Motul turbolight 10 40 semi-syn ... engine noisier already .. but loving the smoother rev now ... brows.gif brows.gif brows.gif
low yat 82
post Dec 23 2011, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 23 2011, 11:43 AM)
I believe your car can do wheelie miaa  brows.gif  front can angkat ..
*
lol...............

eh, pasang ur vr4 disc brake liao ? drool.gif drool.gif
Quazacolt
post Dec 23 2011, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 23 2011, 04:21 PM)
Imho Liqui Moly is towards engine protection ... it kinda somehow keep your engine quiet and protect the internals with thier MOS2 technology... used it ... loved how smooth and quiet engine was... then .. changed to Motul turbolight 10 40 semi-syn ... engine noisier already .. but loving the smoother rev now ...  brows.gif  brows.gif  brows.gif
*
lol because i high rev a ton, liqui moly keeps my engine in check to cope with my aggressiveness ^^;

the irony of it is hi-rev oils, suck ass, rev also slow, and once you reached high rev the engine is like wanting to die or explode doh.gif
Peekab0o
post Dec 23 2011, 05:57 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 23 2011, 04:53 PM)
lol...............

eh, pasang ur vr4 disc brake liao ?   drool.gif  drool.gif
*
Belum... still undecided what rotor to use... so many brand out there gila already me ... why lea u wan buy my noobride rotor ah ? mwehehehe ~


Added on December 23, 2011, 5:58 pm
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 23 2011, 05:32 PM)
lol because i high rev a ton, liqui moly keeps my engine in check to cope with my aggressiveness ^^;

the irony of it is hi-rev oils, suck ass, rev also slow, and once you reached high rev the engine is like wanting to die or explode  doh.gif
*
wait till u use motul lol... revving is easier ... yah for our small engine once u rev dam high the roar like engine gonna explode soon... i also scared cry.gif

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 23 2011, 05:58 PM
Codyx
post Dec 23 2011, 09:56 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 23 2011, 01:52 PM)
i read that magnatec does not do what it claims to do..... you didn't buy it because it claims to be able to 'stick' to the pistons reducing startup wear and tear, did you?
*
i buy it because i used it since and it's cheap...i change my engine oil very frequently because i drive alot..miledge hit fast...what to do?
lyordson
post Dec 23 2011, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 23 2011, 04:21 PM)
Imho Liqui Moly is towards engine protection ... it kinda somehow keep your engine quiet and protect the internals with thier MOS2 technology... used it ... loved how smooth and quiet engine was... then .. changed to Motul turbolight 10 40 semi-syn ... engine noisier already .. but loving the smoother rev now ...  brows.gif  brows.gif  brows.gif
*
liquimoly revs smoother for me wink.gif
sinister_sid
post Dec 24 2011, 02:30 AM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Dec 22 2011, 12:44 AM)

fook ahsid...

*
tongue.gif
mana lu hilang oh ? laugh.gif
sinister_sid
post Dec 24 2011, 02:33 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 22 2011, 01:52 PM)
I had seen people DIY cut-off fuel pump thingy as extra security for "el-cheapo" alarm...
But iswara LMST uses ancient mechanical fuel pump right?

Can I use this wire and add a switch to thid connector to enable/disable the "thing"?
When I installed my vacuum meter, I plug out the connector as it's blocking my installation.
But I forgotten to plug it in and attempted to start the car... The car cranks but engine doesn't start. Attempted like 5 mins only found out didn't plug in this connector.

What is this wire for?
This connector near air filter:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The plug wire leads to here:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

EDIT:
Another extra ques... What is this port for? It's under our driver side dashboard...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
thats is fuel cut out solonoid
our saga iswara have starter kill immobolizer
not sure lmst have it though
its a black box mounted at firewall near the starter

QUOTE(llJasell @ Dec 23 2011, 03:02 PM)
Hey guys... I've got a ques...
I changed my spark plug about a month ago. Those are only cheap spark plugs about RM12 per set. The thing is that I felt the increase in pick up for like a week but it became slow and a bit unresponsive after that. So what should I do??
*


take out ur plug and see whats the condition 1st
if can post out the pic and maybe we can help you
cyanboy
post Dec 24 2011, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(sinister_sid @ Dec 24 2011, 02:33 AM)
thats is fuel cut out solonoid
our saga iswara have starter kill immobolizer
not sure lmst have it though
its a black box mounted at firewall near the starter
*
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

You mean this pic on our carburator is starter kill solenoid? I won't be able to start the car when I disconnect the wire... Only can crank till starter kong...


This port...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

I found out dy. I wanted to install my Turbo Timer initially but found out this new stuff to play with... This port original intention is a reminder for key not removed after engine off... Like those car will beep if key not removed...
It has zero resistance between the pins when key is inserted and connection unlatched when key is inserted... It acted like some type of switch... Anyway, I had figured out the wiring and may post on my blog bout this next year whistling.gif ...

Btw all the images are taken from LMST...
EDIT: Added spoiler and bigger pic for the port...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 24 2011, 09:51 AM
Codyx
post Dec 25 2011, 11:36 AM

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added a relay to my starter.....ignition was a breeze now:D
cyanboy
post Dec 25 2011, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 25 2011, 11:36 AM)
added a relay to my starter.....ignition was a breeze now:D
*
Sometimes if my gear not positioned correctly the car seemed to can't start... I'm driving LMST though...
Eg: I must shift the gear to the right only can start... But sometimes this method doesn't work out also... Engine stalled in middle of road and it just go "click"... Waliao-eh!

I think time to add starter relay sad.gif

EDIT: Btw, what wire you used to add to the relay part... Cause I scare wire too thin... Those used in household extension cords wiring thick enough?

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 25 2011, 01:37 PM
Quazacolt
post Dec 25 2011, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 25 2011, 11:36 AM)
added a relay to my starter.....ignition was a breeze now:D
*
i got a recond/new perdana starter coupled with a recently added starter relay and using liqui moly 10-40 ss + ceratec, starting up my car even on really cold starts (midnight, wee mornings etc, since i got night jobs/24hour standby lol) is a breeze XD

and the ignition sound was just sex, giving off the feel/illusion that im not driving a cheapo milo tin can rolleyes.gif
nfsu230190
post Dec 25 2011, 04:56 PM

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my power window suddently not working this afternoon,
yesterday i just install new music player..

Any idea how to troubleshoot ??
sinister_sid
post Dec 25 2011, 08:20 PM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Dec 25 2011, 04:56 PM)
my power window suddently not working this afternoon,
yesterday i just install new music player..

Any idea how to troubleshoot ??
*
bukak door trim then find the window motor wire and have a test light then test if there are current when u press the button anot lo
if no current wiring failled sommewhere
chtan470
post Dec 26 2011, 09:15 AM

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Having problem with car temperature, always rise up to 4bar & sometime blinking during jamming.....any advise. Tq
nfsu230190
post Dec 26 2011, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(chtan470 @ Dec 26 2011, 09:15 AM)
Having problem with car temperature, always rise up to 4bar & sometime blinking during jamming.....any advise. Tq
*
mine also like this, go to radiator shop and remove the thermostat, clean the radiator..
Problem solve, now my iswara temp always 1/4++..

Thanks sid, my power window back to normal, the railing out.. Repair by myself, haha save $$..
Codyx
post Dec 26 2011, 07:37 PM

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remove the themo? is that even a good idea?
poolcarpet
post Dec 26 2011, 09:37 PM

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No, sorry to say I'm personally against removing any kind of stuffs in the engine as a 'cure' for a problem.

"mine also like this, go to radiator shop and remove the thermostat, clean the radiator..
Problem solve, now my iswara temp always 1/4++.."

Probably just cleaning the radiator would have been sufficient, then change the thermostat instead of removing it. Removing t-stat means coolant is circulating throughout the engine block AT ALL TIMES, definitely engine will run cooler unless there is some other major blockage but this won't be optimum as engine will be way below normal operating temperature (e.g. morning start, or highway drive - drive, not highway speeding...)

I've taken out my radiator, sent it to radiator specialist to clean/repair, replaced the t-stat, done coolant flush and everything is fine. I don't understand why any mechanic would recommend removing t-stat...
QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 26 2011, 07:37 PM)
remove the themo? is that even a good idea?
*
nfsu230190
post Dec 27 2011, 12:12 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 26 2011, 09:37 PM)
No, sorry to say I'm personally against removing any kind of stuffs in the engine as a 'cure' for a problem.

"mine also like this, go to radiator shop and remove the thermostat, clean the radiator..
Problem solve, now my iswara temp always 1/4++.."

Probably just cleaning the radiator would have been sufficient, then change the thermostat instead of removing it. Removing t-stat means coolant is circulating throughout the engine block AT ALL TIMES, definitely engine will run cooler unless there is some other major blockage but this won't be optimum as engine will be way below normal operating temperature (e.g. morning start, or highway drive - drive, not highway speeding...)

I've taken out my radiator, sent it to radiator specialist to clean/repair, replaced the t-stat, done coolant flush and everything is fine. I don't understand why any mechanic would recommend removing t-stat...
*
sweat.gif it is bad if car run below operating temp ?? mechanic already done it to my car.. he say many iswara remove the thermostat.. so i just agree lah to remove... shocking.gif

Quazacolt
post Dec 27 2011, 12:46 AM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Dec 27 2011, 12:12 AM)
sweat.gif it is bad if car run below operating temp ?? mechanic already done it to my car.. he say many iswara remove the thermostat.. so i just agree lah to remove... shocking.gif
*
do you know how does your basic engine ignition/combustion works? what do you think that'll be like in cold?
poolcarpet
post Dec 27 2011, 01:00 AM

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far more important than that - we should stop to think why car engine's are designed that way. i read somewhere, can't remember where... every single part of a car is important. it is engineered that way, if a part is not important, why would the car manufacturers include them? remember each part is COST to them. i know many mechanics out there recommend to remove the tstat, why i don't know..... maybe they are more clever than the car manufacturers... (and when i say car manufacturers, i really mean the original dna of the iswara, which is mitsubishi car engineers....)


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 27 2011, 12:46 AM)
do you know how does your basic engine ignition/combustion works? what do you think that'll be like in cold?
*
Quazacolt
post Dec 27 2011, 01:06 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 27 2011, 01:00 AM)
far more important than that - we should stop to think why car engine's are designed that way. i read somewhere, can't remember where... every single part of a car is important. it is engineered that way, if a part is not important, why would the car manufacturers include them? remember each part is COST to them. i know many mechanics out there recommend to remove the tstat, why i don't know..... maybe they are more clever than the car manufacturers... (and when i say car manufacturers, i really mean the original dna of the iswara, which is mitsubishi car engineers....)
*
what i pointed out was the basics of how car engine works, obviously if you go deeper you would have to review on the actual car designs (be it an iswara or a FL or BLM etc)

imho some parts can be removed, or replace, however, please think carefully of the consequences, and most importantly, what that part do, why is it there in the first place.

if you cant do that, then it's probably better to leave it as it is.
poolcarpet
post Dec 27 2011, 08:23 AM

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yeah, so in the case of thermostat in our 4G1x, what's the reasoning for removing it?


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 27 2011, 01:06 AM)
what i pointed out was the basics of how car engine works, obviously if you go deeper you would have to review on the actual car designs (be it an iswara or a FL or BLM etc)

imho some parts can be removed, or replace, however, please think carefully of the consequences, and most importantly, what that part do, why is it there in the first place.

if you cant do that, then it's probably better to leave it as it is.
*
low yat 82
post Dec 27 2011, 08:23 AM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Dec 27 2011, 12:12 AM)
sweat.gif it is bad if car run below operating temp ?? mechanic already done it to my car.. he say many iswara remove the thermostat.. so i just agree lah to remove... shocking.gif
*
not much as an issue if u were not living on vry low temp ambience... termostat ensure ur oil in workin temp... but if u were at places like genting or vry early in morning, thermostat plays important role to make sure ur engine oil at operating temp asap to helps d block n mechanical stuff operating wit min wear n tear..



instead remove d thermostat, replace it wit low temp thermostat is much wiser choice.. u can ask notoriez, if not mistake he usin low temp thermostat...
poolcarpet
post Dec 27 2011, 09:31 AM

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Iswara thermostat is rated at 88 dec C I think, and most spare part shops will sell 82 dec C (may be wrong, just basing on memory here).

This means early morning, when your engine coolant is say ambient air temperature 30 deg C (or 18 at genting), and you start the engine, coolant continuously flow through the engine block. This causes the engine to take longer time to reach optimum operating temperature, and when you cruise on highway without accelerating, you might have lower temp than normal cause coolant is circulating all the time.

If you have the thermostat, then the coolant will NOT circulate and it will very quickly warm up to about 8x deg C and that's when the tstat opens, allowing the coolant to circulate through the radiator removing excess heat. From here on, the tstat acts as a regulator, opening and closing when necessary to keep the coolant at 8x deg C consistently.

Also note that if you remove the thermostat, there is less 'resistance' to the coolant flow, which means coolant might be circulating TOO FAST through your engine block to pick up the heat - same concept as home water shower heater, try maintaining same temp, then start turning off the tap simulating water flow resistance from the tstat and you'll start to feel the water becoming hotter and hotter even though temp setting is the same.

So the side effects of removing thermostat is that engine may take longer to reach optimum temp or possibly even run at below optimum temp in certain conditions such as light throttle cruising at night or highways. I do know that if the engine is running below optimum temp, you'll get bad fuel economy. Not sure about other side effects but I'm sure a bit of googling will help.

So again, I don't understand why mechanics simply recommend to remove thermostat! The tstat is just to regulate the temp, not actual overheating issues - there's something else wrong with the cooling system if it consistently overheats and that should be fixed instead of removing this and removing that.



QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 27 2011, 08:23 AM)
not much as an issue if u were not living on vry low temp ambience... termostat ensure ur oil in workin temp... but if u were at places like genting or vry early in morning,&nbsp; thermostat plays important role to make sure ur engine oil at operating temp asap to helps d block n mechanical stuff operating wit min wear n tear..
instead remove d thermostat, replace it wit low temp thermostat is much wiser choice.. u can ask notoriez, if not mistake he usin low temp thermostat...
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 27 2011, 09:34 AM
Peekab0o
post Dec 27 2011, 09:57 AM

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http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=47747332


Woohoo... who agree with me this car is so dam sexy brows.gif
Lowenkreuz
post Dec 27 2011, 10:43 AM

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hey errr, anyone with LMST fitted with rear center seatbelts yet? Free ka? I heard only till end of this month free, after 2012 no longer free... True?
Chan320
post Dec 27 2011, 12:02 PM

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Have anyone change the rear wiper to hook type like wise?

Codyx
post Dec 27 2011, 06:23 PM

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How to tune Air-Fuel Mixture guys?
sinister_sid
post Dec 27 2011, 07:32 PM

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i remove my thermostate and the fan olso direct current when key switch on
running overcooling all the time
sucks more fuel when cold morning and night
but my 1.3 is used by my mother for daily usage to bring student to school at hot afternoon doh.gif
so as a precaution against overheating since the engine is old and the head gasket already clocked nearly 200k so not wiling to risk it till i get budget to overhaul my engine biggrin.gif
but this setup i pushed till genting uphill chasing ronzai dry.gif , mostly 1st and 2nd gear redline action , the temp only register 1/4 when i reach genting icon_idea.gif brows.gif


Added on December 27, 2011, 7:33 pm
QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 27 2011, 06:23 PM)
How to tune Air-Fuel Mixture guys?
*
kasi pusing pusing ur carb


This post has been edited by sinister_sid: Dec 27 2011, 07:33 PM
kevinlim001
post Dec 27 2011, 08:44 PM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Dec 27 2011, 10:43 AM)
hey errr, anyone with LMST fitted with rear center seatbelts yet? Free ka? I heard only till end of this month free, after 2012 no longer free... True?
*
yes got back to service center they will install for u FREE.. go now.. i think only last until this year..


Added on December 27, 2011, 8:50 pmskywalker shifoo,

my lmst abs seems soften.. any good recommendation? now i m like riding boat when the road is uneven.. do i need to change the whole set or just the spring set will do?


Added on December 27, 2011, 8:54 pmis GAB spring + kayaba abs a good setup i dun 1 to sacrifice my comfort level


This post has been edited by kevinlim001: Dec 27 2011, 08:54 PM
Codyx
post Dec 27 2011, 09:01 PM

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bukan ade mesin/computer ke? pusing dengan tangan accurate?...nanti lagi terus dari setting previous macam mana?...tak boleh test pon
the_catacombs
post Dec 27 2011, 10:03 PM

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QUOTE(kevinlim001 @ Dec 27 2011, 08:44 PM)

Added on December 27, 2011, 8:50 pmskywalker shifoo,

my lmst abs seems soften.. any good recommendation? now i m like riding boat when the road is uneven.. do i need to change the whole set or just the spring set will do?


Added on December 27, 2011, 8:54 pmis GAB spring + kayaba abs a good setup i dun 1 to sacrifice my comfort level
*
u want comfort ahh??... get original suspension can liao...
if want handling, coilovers lar....
choose between one...

QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 27 2011, 09:01 PM)
bukan ade mesin/computer ke? pusing dengan tangan accurate?...nanti lagi terus dari setting previous macam mana?...tak boleh test pon
*
of coz must use ur nose as well loh...
fleekreturn
post Dec 28 2011, 12:24 AM

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InspirSAGA. Hahaha. Wonder how the front looks like.

user posted image
Peekab0o
post Dec 28 2011, 08:42 AM

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QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 28 2011, 12:24 AM)
InspirSAGA. Hahaha. Wonder how the front looks like.

user posted image
*
Fugly.. theres another 1 Interaga Dc5 sedan iswara ... zz dew...
azmirkhalid
post Dec 28 2011, 10:40 AM

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hi all...first time here....im taking over an old Saga (1st batch version). The engine seems ok...but exterior really bad. so need advise where can i get cheap spare parts. what i really need now is:
1) Headlights set
2) Bumper (front + Back)

thanks in advance...
Chan320
post Dec 28 2011, 12:30 PM

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QUOTE(azmirkhalid @ Dec 28 2011, 10:40 AM)
hi all...first time here....im taking over an old Saga (1st batch version). The engine seems ok...but exterior really bad. so need advise where can i get cheap spare parts. what i really need now is:
1) Headlights set
2) Bumper (front + Back)

thanks in advance...
*
Headlight better get ori as it is better in term of lighting compare to cheap ones,cheap one dun really shine the road well. as for the bumper if its in bad condition can go for fiber or aftermarket one to suit ur taste bro smile.gif
azmirkhalid
post Dec 28 2011, 12:56 PM

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QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 28 2011, 12:30 PM)
Headlight better get ori as it is better in term of lighting compare to cheap ones,cheap one dun really shine the road well. as for the bumper if its in bad condition can go for fiber or aftermarket one to suit ur taste bro  smile.gif
*
Any recommendation of shops around shah alam to get it??
ILikePie
post Dec 28 2011, 01:01 PM

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My LMST bonnet~ One of the joint patah. Welding can fix it? Or buy new bonnet? cry.gif
DaBestOne
post Dec 28 2011, 03:27 PM

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QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 28 2011, 12:24 AM)
InspirSAGA. Hahaha. Wonder how the front looks like.

user posted image
*
at first sight I really thought it was a inspira laugh.gif
fleekreturn
post Dec 28 2011, 06:24 PM

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The integra version looks nicer. Haha.
low yat 82
post Dec 28 2011, 07:58 PM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 28 2011, 01:01 PM)
My LMST bonnet~ One of the joint patah. Welding can fix it? Or buy new bonnet? cry.gif
*
which joint? any pic?
if its d hinge, can replace wit new1...i forgot how much.. but less than rm50
ILikePie
post Dec 28 2011, 08:17 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 28 2011, 07:58 PM)
which joint? any pic?
if its d hinge, can replace wit new1...i forgot how much.. but less than rm50
*
Yes the hinge cry.gif

Can find at other shops other than SC?
low yat 82
post Dec 28 2011, 11:33 PM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Dec 28 2011, 08:17 PM)
Yes the hinge cry.gif

Can find at other shops other than SC?
*
ooo..haha... mine also putus long time d.. jus dat last 2 mmonths got time,so go buy at pj http://jenfookbee.blogspot.com/ its a sparepart shop. d price cant remember but definitely cheap.. rm1x-3x. below rm50 lo.


ILikePie
post Dec 29 2011, 12:27 AM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 28 2011, 11:33 PM)
ooo..haha... mine also putus long time d.. jus dat last 2 mmonths got time,so go buy at pj http://jenfookbee.blogspot.com/ its a sparepart shop. d price cant remember but definitely cheap.. rm1x-3x. below rm50 lo.
*
Thanks. thumbup.gif Thought need buy new hood lol. But then, new hood can choose brows.gif
shahiryusoff
post Dec 29 2011, 03:13 AM

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Hi Guys, I need some help.

My VDO trip meter already kong. Now I don't know how many KM I already jalan and when is my next service.

My trip meter only works when it's cold like for example in the morning after I start driving around 10min it will stop working. Any of the sifu here know what is the problem?

How much roughly to repair this and can recommend to me any shop in Seremban or KL?

Should I just change to whole meter because my fuel meter also fluctuating very bad. How much is it to change to whole meter panel? Any 3rd party meter available besides VDO?


Thank you very much. smile.gif
poolcarpet
post Dec 29 2011, 07:43 AM

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Same thing happened to my car few months ago, bought the original center meter (speed/odometer) for RM150 I think and also the speedometer cable can't remember how much but less than RM50. Then diy took out old and replace it. Not difficult, just have to be careful when removing the center part of the meter from the meter housing.

No idea about the fuel meter, but before you change that - make sure it's the meter that is the problem and not the sending unit...

QUOTE(shahiryusoff @ Dec 29 2011, 03:13 AM)
Hi Guys, I need some help.

My VDO trip meter already kong. Now I don't know how many KM I already jalan and when is my next service.

My trip meter only works when it's cold like for example in the morning after I start driving around 10min it will stop working. Any of the sifu here know what is the problem?

How much roughly to repair this and can recommend to me any shop in Seremban or KL?

Should I just change to whole meter because my fuel meter also fluctuating very bad. How much is it to change to whole meter panel? Any 3rd party meter available besides VDO?
Thank you very much. smile.gif
*
shahiryusoff
post Dec 29 2011, 07:55 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 29 2011, 07:43 AM)
Same thing happened to my car few months ago, bought the original center meter (speed/odometer) for RM150 I think and also the speedometer cable can't remember how much but less than RM50. Then diy took out old and replace it. Not difficult, just have to be careful when removing the center part of the meter from the meter housing.

No idea about the fuel meter, but before you change that - make sure it's the meter that is the problem and not the sending unit...
*
RM150? No offense but doesn't it seems like a bit expensive? Did you bought it at Proton? I thought maybe for around RM200 we can get the whole meter panel. blush.gif

Is there any other 3rd party meter that is cheaper?
poolcarpet
post Dec 29 2011, 08:38 AM

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I don't know whether it's expensive or not but it's original Proton part. I bought from nearest spare part shop, told them I wanted original proton. So far ok. I also saw this blog/shop selling around same price:

http://jenfookbee.blogspot.com/2011/07/pro...eter-gauge.html

I've been using it for 6 months already now, working perfect no problems. I checked my records (I keep full records of all parts/services) and it was RM150 for the meter, RM30 for the cable. All ori Proton part bought from nearby spare part shop.

RM200 for whole meter panel, probably second hand but remember these are wear and tear items, if you buy second hand it's like lottery, you don't know when it will decide to kaput again then the RM200 masuk tong sampah.. see these...

http://www.mudah.my/Meter+iswara-12962244.htm
http://www.mudah.my/Meter+iswara-12875898.htm
http://www.mudah.my/Iswara+Speedo+Meter-5663175.htm

So high mileage still asking for so high price smile.gif Personally for me, I'd rather buy new part for these wear and tear crucial parts. Other non crucial body parts no prob buying second hand.

Just my opinion but everyone's different icon_rolleyes.gif


QUOTE(shahiryusoff @ Dec 29 2011, 07:55 AM)
RM150? No offense but doesn't it seems like a bit expensive? Did you bought it at Proton? I thought maybe for around RM200 we can get the whole meter panel.  blush.gif

Is there any other 3rd party meter that is cheaper?
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 29 2011, 08:40 AM
shahiryusoff
post Dec 29 2011, 08:58 AM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 29 2011, 08:38 AM)
I don't know whether it's expensive or not but it's original Proton part. I bought from nearest spare part shop, told them I wanted original proton. So far ok. I also saw this blog/shop selling around same price:

http://jenfookbee.blogspot.com/2011/07/pro...eter-gauge.html

I've been using it for 6 months already now, working perfect no problems. I checked my records (I keep full records of all parts/services) and it was RM150 for the meter, RM30 for the cable. All ori Proton part bought from nearby spare part shop.

RM200 for whole meter panel, probably second hand but remember these are wear and tear items, if you buy second hand it's like lottery, you don't know when it will decide to kaput again then the RM200 masuk tong sampah.. see these...

http://www.mudah.my/Meter+iswara-12962244.htm
http://www.mudah.my/Meter+iswara-12875898.htm
http://www.mudah.my/Iswara+Speedo+Meter-5663175.htm

So high mileage still asking for so high price smile.gif Personally for me, I'd rather buy new part for these wear and tear crucial parts. Other non crucial body parts no prob buying second hand.

Just my opinion but everyone's different  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
Thank you so much bro for your time replying. You have a point there. Ill also change to ori part I guess. Actually what I meant for the RM200 is, I thought we can get a complete NEW meter for around RM200 not a second hand doh.gif . But that was just a guess blush.gif . I thought like this odometer was around RM70 maybe for a new part. Newer new how much is it actually. Now I know. rclxms.gif

Im also looking forward to install Cold Air Intake but dont know where can I find the hose. Does accessory shop sell the hose and do installation?
poolcarpet
post Dec 29 2011, 09:15 AM

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Maybe shop around and see.... I just did quick survey and felt RM150 was fair price but I could be wrong.

CAI guru a lot here... wait for them to reply smile.gif me play stock standard only, don't do any mod....

QUOTE(shahiryusoff @ Dec 29 2011, 08:58 AM)
Thank you so much bro for your time replying. You have a point there. Ill also change to ori part I guess. Actually what I meant for the RM200 is, I thought we can get a complete NEW meter for around RM200 not a second hand doh.gif . But that was just a guess blush.gif . I thought like this odometer was around RM70 maybe for a new part. Newer new how much is it actually. Now I know.  rclxms.gif

Im also looking forward to install Cold Air Intake but dont know where can I find the hose. Does accessory shop sell the hose and do installation?
*
Quazacolt
post Dec 29 2011, 09:51 AM

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QUOTE(shahiryusoff @ Dec 29 2011, 07:55 AM)
RM150? No offense but doesn't it seems like a bit expensive? Did you bought it at Proton? I thought maybe for around RM200 we can get the whole meter panel.  blush.gif

Is there any other 3rd party meter that is cheaper?
*
it is that expensive for just ONE panel, i replaced mine for around rm200 somemore (including cable as well though).
poolcarpet
post Dec 29 2011, 10:23 AM

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you mean you changed all 3 meter panels+cable - brand new, for RM200???? where?

ps: sorry I misunderstood... so you changed just 1 meter panel for RM200... around the same price, mine RM180 plus the cable.

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 29 2011, 09:51 AM)
it is that expensive for just ONE panel, i replaced mine for around rm200 somemore (including cable as well though).
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 29 2011, 11:15 AM
fleekreturn
post Dec 29 2011, 11:11 AM

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Changing all 3 new meter panel is expensive. Thats why I opt for vr4 meter. More reliable. But of course, 2nd hand item.
poolcarpet
post Dec 29 2011, 11:19 AM

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you mean like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-Galant-...#ht_2795wt_1211

or this?

http://www.mudah.my/Meter+fiore+mmc+c12+ada+rpm-12979324.htm

QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 29 2011, 11:11 AM)
Changing all 3 new meter panel is expensive. Thats why I opt for vr4 meter. More reliable. But of course, 2nd hand item.
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 29 2011, 11:20 AM
fleekreturn
post Dec 29 2011, 11:43 AM

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The galant 1. Im using it currently. Many other models available for our dashboard, vr4, mirage, c12, rx7. This one all analogue type. Digital i forgot. Too many. Haha
Chan320
post Dec 29 2011, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(shahiryusoff @ Dec 29 2011, 08:58 AM)
Im also looking forward to install Cold Air Intake but dont know where can I find the hose. Does accessory shop sell the hose and do installation?
*
u can try get it from sifu catacombs,he got sell
-----> http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/317607

This post has been edited by Chan320: Dec 29 2011, 11:55 AM
fleekreturn
post Dec 29 2011, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(shahiryusoff @ Dec 29 2011, 08:58 AM)
Im also looking forward to install Cold Air Intake but dont know where can I find the hose. Does accessory shop sell the hose and do installation?
*
Most accessories shop have that stuff. Retail price should be below RM40. I bought mine RM38 previously. And for the installation, out of 5 acc. shop I asked, all of them refuse / unwilling to do such job. Either they don't have the skill or just being lazy. Then I go to my preferred exhaust shop at klang and ask the uncle there a favor to help me install and he agreed. Cost me RM50 for the installation. Make a hole at bumper, routing the hose, and cut off the original intake hole bigger. A lil bit complicated I can say. Haha.
cyanboy
post Dec 29 2011, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(shahiryusoff @ Dec 29 2011, 08:58 AM)
Thank you so much bro for your time replying. You have a point there. Ill also change to ori part I guess. Actually what I meant for the RM200 is, I thought we can get a complete NEW meter for around RM200 not a second hand doh.gif . But that was just a guess blush.gif . I thought like this odometer was around RM70 maybe for a new part. Newer new how much is it actually. Now I know.  rclxms.gif

Im also looking forward to install Cold Air Intake but dont know where can I find the hose. Does accessory shop sell the hose and do installation?
*
If you want ori saga CAI like this:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Then try to search at proton stokist... I got mine at RM60 which is kinda expensive... It fits the square hole on your engine bay... Insulation? You can opt for insulflex and gao tim...
Thats all in my blog...
But if you want aftermarket type go find sifu catacomb as suggested...

Huhu... Just added key buzzer... Now the beeping sound makes me feel like i'm entering a waja...


EDIT: Added spoiler... sorry for the darn large size... doh.gif

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 29 2011, 02:40 PM
hammerclaw69
post Dec 29 2011, 07:31 PM

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Peeps , is it Pivot Mega Raizin really effective over torque and fuel saving?

Will it be more effective with HKS grounding?

Friend of mine is offering me Pivot Mega Raizin Voltage Stabilizer for Rm68 , is it standard market price range?

I found this thread but it is self engineered VS , look at the descriptions .. interesting.. should i believe and go for it?

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...vot+mega+raizin

This post has been edited by hammerclaw69: Dec 29 2011, 07:53 PM
poolcarpet
post Dec 29 2011, 08:31 PM

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Original Pivot? I'd be careful... take a look:

http://www.pivotracing.com/product/VS-M

Your friend offering it for RM68 only? Hard to believe so beware...

http://pivotjp.com/imitation/imitation_raizin-e.html


QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 29 2011, 07:31 PM)
Friend of mine is offering me Pivot Mega Raizin Voltage Stabilizer for Rm68 , is it standard market price range?

I found this thread but it is self engineered VS , look at the descriptions .. interesting.. should i believe and go for it?

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...vot+mega+raizin
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 29 2011, 08:32 PM
Peekab0o
post Dec 29 2011, 08:33 PM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 29 2011, 07:31 PM)
Peeps , is it Pivot Mega Raizin really effective over torque and fuel saving?

Will it be more effective with HKS grounding?

Friend of mine is offering me Pivot Mega Raizin Voltage Stabilizer for Rm68 , is it standard market price range?

I found this thread but it is self engineered VS , look at the descriptions .. interesting.. should i believe and go for it?

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...vot+mega+raizin
*
Fellow forumer Enoch Keng had the original Pivot Mega Raizin coupled with i forgot what grounding cable the only notice-able difference he told me was air con cooler thats all ... probably theres torque n fuel saving improvement but juz veli minor cant feel it at all ... Rm 68 is definitely a fake one ...

IMO if u wanna get fuel saving those fuel saving gadgets out there i never trust a single one ... juz control your right foot well u can definitely save up thumbup.gif Torque increase u can too slowly save up your piggy bank and later on get some aftermarket camshaft upgrade ... , port and polish your engine , etc etc ... ~~

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Dec 29 2011, 08:37 PM
cyanboy
post Dec 29 2011, 08:40 PM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 29 2011, 07:31 PM)
Peeps , is it Pivot Mega Raizin really effective over torque and fuel saving?

Will it be more effective with HKS grounding?

Friend of mine is offering me Pivot Mega Raizin Voltage Stabilizer for Rm68 , is it standard market price range?

I found this thread but it is self engineered VS , look at the descriptions .. interesting.. should i believe and go for it?

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...vot+mega+raizin
*
Read some waja pros saying that "VS is nothing unless your car wiring is like sh*t"... Or when you got power inverter in your car then VS will perform some trick... If say battery not so fast go heaven I think yes, but FC i doubt so...

I would suggest go for grounding instead of VS... One of the sifus here had commented that we don't even need extra grounding, our car engine, altenator and everything is kinda VERY near to the car chassis itself... and we even have few HUGE metal holding our engine and chassis together... So current will go through that block instead of going through your grounding cables!

But for old cars... Like maybe after 5-10 years and above I would say extra grounding wires will help... The older your car, the more noticeable the effect... Cause stock grounding cables would be oxidised a bit/a lot by that time...

The real/actual improvement for grounding (I THINK only): Headlights brighter and when air con compressor kick in not so much effect, Auto gear smoother change... FC maybe? And thats all...

Correct me if wrong... newbie+noobie here...
hammerclaw69
post Dec 29 2011, 08:57 PM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 29 2011, 08:40 PM)
Read some waja pros saying that "VS is nothing unless your car wiring is like sh*t"... Or when you got power inverter in your car then VS will perform some trick... If say battery not so fast go heaven I think yes, but FC i doubt so...

I would suggest go for grounding instead of VS... One of the sifus here had commented that we don't even need extra grounding, our car engine, altenator and everything is kinda VERY near to the car chassis itself... and we even have few HUGE metal holding our engine and chassis together... So current will go through that block instead of going through your grounding cables!

But for old cars... Like maybe after 5-10 years and above I would say extra grounding wires will help... The older your car, the more noticeable the effect... Cause stock grounding cables would be oxidised a bit/a lot by that time... 

The real/actual improvement for grounding (I THINK only): Headlights brighter and when air con compressor kick in not so much effect, Auto gear smoother change... FC maybe? And thats all...

Correct me if wrong... newbie+noobie here...
*
yes bro u got it right , I got use one fuel save before ( reli looks like one cikai cheap thing ) but it made some effect as now i changed battery and removed that thing.. the air cond less cool and power reli like wana mati ² ...

I checked this thread and it reli explains well.. VS and Grounding :


[url=http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1495749]http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1495749


Can we trust this biggrin.gif ...


Added on December 29, 2011, 9:01 pm
QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 29 2011, 08:33 PM)
Fellow forumer Enoch Keng had the original Pivot Mega Raizin coupled with i forgot what grounding cable the only notice-able difference he told me was air con cooler thats all ... probably theres torque n fuel saving improvement but juz veli minor cant feel it at all ... Rm 68 is definitely a fake one ...

IMO if u wanna get fuel saving those fuel saving gadgets out there i never trust a single one ... juz control your right foot well u can definitely save up  thumbup.gif  Torque increase u can too slowly save up your piggy bank and later on get some aftermarket camshaft upgrade ... , port and polish your engine , etc etc ... ~~
*
Ahaa.. i tot so wen he said 68 biggrin.gif ... thanks for confirming it bro..

n I guess i got lucky wen i tried one fuel saver thingy below 100rm and it really improves acceleration , air cond

Now the Pivot thingy ori costing about 300rm...
Im checking out this and quite interesting.. the price and functions compared to even ori Pivot VS and grounding wink.gif

Check it bro :

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1289791 ( VS )
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1495749 ( Grounding )


Added on December 29, 2011, 9:04 pm
QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 29 2011, 08:31 PM)
Original Pivot? I'd be careful... take a look:

http://www.pivotracing.com/product/VS-M

Your friend offering it for RM68 only? Hard to believe so beware...

http://pivotjp.com/imitation/imitation_raizin-e.html
*
Thanks alot bro.. the image really helps to identify the imitation.. thumbs up for tha link dude thumbup.gif

n sure im not gona take that 68 rm thingy... dayumn! doh.gif

This post has been edited by hammerclaw69: Dec 29 2011, 09:07 PM
fleekreturn
post Dec 29 2011, 09:25 PM

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Im using the RM50 blue 'Pivot' VS. It helps prolong my batt. life span. My batt is almost 3 yrs already. Still in a good shape.
Codyx
post Dec 29 2011, 09:27 PM

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From: Rawang, Selayang, Kepong...


imma using MegaRaizin ...with a ('') plus Voltmeter

but mine was good quality Immitation..not fake tongue.gif

Boasted Light, ICE & other mechanism

of coz with a good Grounding tongue.gif = Pickup/Ignition/Starter Boast

This post has been edited by Codyx: Dec 29 2011, 09:28 PM
low yat 82
post Dec 29 2011, 10:30 PM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 29 2011, 08:57 PM)
yes bro u got it right , I got use one fuel save before ( reli looks like one cikai cheap thing ) but it made some effect as now i changed battery and removed that thing.. the air cond less cool and power reli like wana mati ² ...

I checked this thread and it reli explains well.. VS and Grounding :


[url=http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1495749]http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1495749


Can we trust this biggrin.gif ...


Added on December 29, 2011, 9:01 pm
Ahaa.. i tot so wen he said 68 biggrin.gif ... thanks for confirming it bro..

n I guess i got lucky wen i tried one fuel saver thingy below 100rm and it really improves acceleration , air cond

Now the Pivot thingy ori costing about 300rm...
Im checking out this and quite interesting.. the price and functions compared to even ori Pivot VS and grounding wink.gif

Check it bro :

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1289791 ( VS )
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1495749 ( Grounding )


Added on December 29, 2011, 9:04 pm
Thanks alot bro.. the image really helps to identify the imitation.. thumbs up for tha link dude  thumbup.gif

n sure im not gona take that 68 rm thingy... dayumn!  doh.gif
*
ermm...wat do u expect from from this stuff?
cyanboy
post Dec 30 2011, 12:31 AM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Who attending?


QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 29 2011, 09:25 PM)
Im using the RM50 blue 'Pivot' VS. It helps prolong my batt. life span. My batt is almost 3 yrs already. Still in a good shape.
*
QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 29 2011, 09:27 PM)
imma using MegaRaizin ...with a ('') plus Voltmeter

but mine was good quality Immitation..not fake tongue.gif

Boasted Light, ICE & other mechanism

of coz with a good Grounding tongue.gif = Pickup/Ignition/Starter Boast
*
No doubt some good "fakes" works just as well... Just warranty dunno how only...
Codyx
post Dec 30 2011, 12:45 AM

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From: Rawang, Selayang, Kepong...


My car will show there with CSI group i guess
cyanboy
post Dec 30 2011, 12:59 AM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 30 2011, 12:45 AM)
My car will show there with CSI group i guess
*
Is ot the same as SIC?
hammerclaw69
post Dec 30 2011, 03:07 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 29 2011, 10:30 PM)
ermm...wat do u expect from from this stuff?
*
Should be good from all the feedback in that page... and the technical infoz reasonable...
DaBestOne
post Dec 30 2011, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(Codyx @ Dec 29 2011, 09:27 PM)
imma using MegaRaizin ...with a ('') plus Voltmeter

but mine was good quality Immitation..not fake tongue.gif

Boasted Light, ICE & other mechanism

of coz with a good Grounding tongue.gif = Pickup/Ignition/Starter Boast
*
Replica but not imitate? tongue.gif
Codyx
post Dec 30 2011, 03:14 PM

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From: Rawang, Selayang, Kepong...


replica....totally genuine marking and hints which exactly same with the pivot website used to identify fakes....mine has same marking with ori.....i telling you now tongue.gif
hammerclaw69
post Dec 30 2011, 03:20 PM

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Custom VS punye review ( used in Saga LMST 1.3M )

QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Jun 21 2011, 05:31 PM)
Recently installed Eric's VS + GC for my Proton Saga LMST 1.3 (M). Noticable differences as follows:-

1) My HID lights (already super bright) are even brighter. Longer throw for normal + high beams.
2) My signal lights + brake lights are super bright and clear now in the day time & night.
3) My interior lights are brighter than ever as well.
4) My voltage is much more stable now (previously 12.0V to 14.0V, but now it's stable from 13.0V to 14.6V, usually above 14.0V)
5) My ICE audio system clarity has improved by 100% based on personal feeling, and the bass feels much more punchy.
6) Eventhough I have no subwoofer installed in my car, the ICE system feels there's a subwoofer installed!!! : hyper:
7) Fuel consumption, so far no comments as I don't see any noticable improvements.
8) Do not feel much difference of the load to the alternator as I'm already using LCP.

Would definately recommend Eric's VS + GC to anyone considering to buy PIVOT or any other of the branded voltage stabilizers in the market.
Believe his product definately is the best out there using high quality / high grade materials which beats the rest.

Eric also comes to your place for door-to-door installation (he came to my office in Glenmarie).
Also very patience and informative in explaining the benefits & differences of his product.
Two thumbs up to a great product & seller!!!
: thumbs: : thumbs:



Refer : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1289791 ( VS )

Guess me gona give it a try wink.gif
low yat 82
post Dec 30 2011, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 30 2011, 03:07 PM)
Should be good from all the feedback in that page... and the technical infoz reasonable...
*
ermm... it depends wat u lookin for. like myself, i install cause wanna better performance, so it didnt really meet my expectation...

QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 30 2011, 03:20 PM)
Custom VS punye review ( used in Saga LMST 1.3M )

QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Jun 21 2011, 05:31 PM)
Recently installed Eric's VS + GC for my Proton Saga LMST 1.3 (M). Noticable differences as follows:-

1) My HID lights (already super bright) are even brighter. Longer throw for normal + high beams.
2) My signal lights + brake lights are super bright and clear now in the day time & night.
3) My interior lights are brighter than ever as well.
4) My voltage is much more stable now (previously 12.0V to 14.0V, but now it's stable from 13.0V to 14.6V, usually above 14.0V)
5) My ICE audio system clarity has improved by 100% based on personal feeling, and the bass feels much more punchy.
6) Eventhough I have no subwoofer installed in my car, the ICE system feels there's a subwoofer installed!!!  : hyper:
7) Fuel consumption, so far no comments as I don't see any noticable improvements.
8) Do not feel much difference of the load to the alternator as I'm already using LCP.

Would definately recommend Eric's VS + GC to anyone considering to buy PIVOT or any other of the branded voltage stabilizers in the market.
Believe his product definately is the best out there using high quality / high grade materials which beats the rest.

Eric also comes to your place for door-to-door installation (he came to my office in Glenmarie).
Also very patience and informative in explaining the benefits & differences of his product.
Two thumbs up to a great product & seller!!!
: thumbs:  : thumbs:
Refer : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1289791 ( VS )

Guess me gona give it a try wink.gif
*
i also install eric's 1. if u lookin for more comfort n enjoyin ride, this stuff for u. if u lookin for performance gain, this is not d stuff for u..

all VS have life expectancy.. i like eric's stuff as he openly mentioned to me d caps dat he use for his VS. its rated 3000-4000hr (@ forgot wat celcius )if not mistake. so roughly dat take 2-3years b4 it starts to deplete.. caps life is highly depends on surroundin temp.

anyway, his GC is must hav item as its really good stuff... super thick copper which vry difficult to find elsewhere. again, if u lookin for more comfort n enjoyin ride, this stuff for u. if u lookin for performance gain, this is not d stuff for u..
kevinlim001
post Dec 30 2011, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Dec 27 2011, 10:03 PM)
u want comfort ahh??... get original suspension can liao...
if want handling, coilovers lar....
choose between one...
of coz must use ur nose as well loh...
*
like tat original is wat brand ar?" blush.gif
shahiryusoff
post Dec 30 2011, 06:44 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 29 2011, 09:51 AM)
it is that expensive for just ONE panel, i replaced mine for around rm200 somemore (including cable as well though).
*
Indeed it is. I have asked a shop here he say around RM180 also. I guess I'll just change there.
QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 29 2011, 11:11 AM)
Changing all 3 new meter panel is expensive. Thats why I opt for vr4 meter. More reliable. But of course, 2nd hand item.
*
Actually I'm looking something like this. A 3rd party meter. But is it like plug and play or have to mod a bit? How much did it cost you? How is the installation? blush.gif

QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Dec 29 2011, 11:19 AM)
I prefer the 1st picture meter. Looks better. blush.gif

QUOTE(Chan320 @ Dec 29 2011, 11:55 AM)
u can try get it from sifu catacombs,he got sell
-----> http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/317607
*
Alright Thanks bro!

QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Dec 29 2011, 02:26 PM)
Most accessories shop have that stuff. Retail price should be below RM40. I bought mine RM38 previously. And for the installation, out of 5 acc. shop I asked, all of them refuse / unwilling to do such job. Either they don't have the skill or just being lazy. Then I go to my preferred exhaust shop at klang and ask the uncle there a favor to help me install and he agreed. Cost me RM50 for the installation. Make a hole at bumper, routing the hose, and cut off the original intake hole bigger. A lil bit complicated I can say. Haha.
*
Okay. Thanks for the info! blush.gif


Added on December 30, 2011, 6:47 pm
QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 29 2011, 02:29 PM)
If you want ori saga CAI like this:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Then try to search at proton stokist... I got mine at RM60 which is kinda expensive... It fits the square hole on your engine bay... Insulation? You can opt for insulflex and gao tim...
Thats all in my blog...
But if you want aftermarket type go find sifu catacomb as suggested...

Huhu... Just added key buzzer... Now the beeping sound makes me feel like i'm entering a waja...
EDIT: Added spoiler... sorry for the darn large size...  doh.gif
*
This looks more clean and simpler. Was looking something like this. drool.gif Thanks for sharing bro. blush.gif

This post has been edited by shahiryusoff: Dec 30 2011, 06:47 PM
hammerclaw69
post Dec 30 2011, 06:58 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 30 2011, 04:51 PM)
ermm... it depends wat u lookin for. like myself, i install cause wanna better performance, so it didnt really meet my expectation...
i also install eric's 1. if u lookin for more comfort n enjoyin ride, this stuff for u. if u lookin for performance gain, this is not d stuff for u..

all VS have life expectancy.. i like eric's stuff as he openly mentioned to me d caps dat he use for his VS. its rated 3000-4000hr (@ forgot wat celcius )if not mistake. so roughly dat take 2-3years b4 it starts to deplete.. caps life is highly depends on surroundin temp.

anyway, his GC is must hav item as its really good stuff... super thick copper which vry difficult to find elsewhere. again,  if u lookin for more comfort n enjoyin ride, this stuff for u. if u lookin for performance gain, this is not d stuff for u..
*
Oops... den its not providing boost in torque? i am actly loooking for better acceleration, aircond n batt life....

I understand that performance can get from aftermarket camshaft, performance clutch etc...

If you got use Pivot products before... which is better compare 2 the VS?
low yat 82
post Dec 30 2011, 07:29 PM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 30 2011, 06:58 PM)
Oops... den its not providing boost in torque? i am actly loooking for better acceleration, aircond n batt life....

I understand that performance can get from aftermarket camshaft, performance clutch etc...

If you got use Pivot products before... which is better compare 2 the VS?
*
ermm.... wit dat kind of money, LCP is abit better if ur main concern is performance.. but if u wan better aircond n vry slightly tiny small accelaration, this is for u.


i onli use eric VS n GC, pivot never use wo.. d main different between d diy n those chaplang pivot r d built quality. include d material n caps been used.
DSV4600
post Dec 30 2011, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 30 2011, 04:51 PM)
ermm... it depends wat u lookin for. like myself, i install cause wanna better performance, so it didnt really meet my expectation...
i also install eric's 1. if u lookin for more comfort n enjoyin ride, this stuff for u. if u lookin for performance gain, this is not d stuff for u..

all VS have life expectancy.. i like eric's stuff as he openly mentioned to me d caps dat he use for his VS. its rated 3000-4000hr (@ forgot wat celcius )if not mistake. so roughly dat take 2-3years b4 it starts to deplete.. caps life is highly depends on surroundin temp.

anyway, his GC is must hav item as its really good stuff... super thick copper which vry difficult to find elsewhere. again,  if u lookin for more comfort n enjoyin ride, this stuff for u. if u lookin for performance gain, this is not d stuff for u..
*
Wah, someone manage to dig up my old review of VS + GC. Memang terror...
Anyway, for those considering to put it, I'd recommend EricToh's one. Why? Cheaper by RM260 compared to Pivot's top range product, and the noticable differences are very visible. Also, he's using quality parts, not fake / Made in China.
To add some more poison, my FC is less, can get additional 50 - 75km easily, running on stock plugs + K&N Drop-In Fliter.

hammerclaw69
post Dec 30 2011, 10:32 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 30 2011, 07:29 PM)
ermm.... wit dat kind of money, LCP is abit better if ur main concern is performance.. but if u wan better aircond n vry slightly tiny small accelaration, this is for u.
i onli use eric VS n GC, pivot never use wo.. d main different between d diy n those chaplang pivot r d built quality. include d material n caps been used.
*
Erm... LCP? lightweight Cam Pulley ka?


Added on December 30, 2011, 10:35 pm
QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Dec 30 2011, 08:42 PM)
Wah, someone manage to dig up my old review of VS + GC. Memang terror...
Anyway, for those considering to put it, I'd recommend EricToh's one. Why? Cheaper by RM260 compared to Pivot's top range product, and the noticable differences are very visible. Also, he's using quality parts, not fake / Made in China.
To add some more poison, my FC is less, can get additional 50 - 75km easily, running on stock plugs + K&N Drop-In Fliter.
*
rclxms.gif FC is less? thats what im looking for widout loosing d perfomance biggrin.gif ... thanx for that brader rclxm9.gif

This post has been edited by hammerclaw69: Dec 30 2011, 10:35 PM
Peekab0o
post Dec 30 2011, 11:54 PM

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QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 30 2011, 10:32 PM)
Erm... LCP? lightweight Cam Pulley ka?


Added on December 30, 2011, 10:35 pm
rclxms.gif FC is less? thats what im looking for widout loosing d perfomance biggrin.gif ... thanx for that brader  rclxm9.gif
*
For aftermarket products... Cam pulley will always be called Adjustable Cam Pulley aka ( ACP ) and yes its lighten as well that is for tuning your aftermarket cam shaft... and for ( LCP ) It will always be regarded as Lighten Crank Pulley It dosent really help in HP gains but it lessen the load when air con is turned on , so RPM can climb easier / faster / smoother or whatever they call it haha ...


fleekreturn
post Dec 31 2011, 02:58 AM

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@shahiryusoff: the meter itself will cost u approx. around RM250 n below. For installation, need to send for wiring n diy our meter cover to fit with new meter.
Peekab0o
post Jan 1 2012, 09:09 AM

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Happy New Year 2012 to all saga/iswara LYN members ~~~ Have a nice day !! thumbup.gif icon_rolleyes.gif
nfsu230190
post Jan 1 2012, 08:43 PM

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haha.. Our car become more old.. Happy new year all saga / iswara owner..

Mine already 20 years..
Mind share yours..

This post has been edited by nfsu230190: Jan 1 2012, 08:44 PM
Peekab0o
post Jan 2 2012, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Jan 1 2012, 08:43 PM)
haha.. Our car become more old.. Happy new year all saga / iswara owner..

Mine already 20 years..
Mind share yours..
*
6years ~ goin into 7... 2005 model lmst I think the oldest car here belongs to our TS ...

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Jan 2 2012, 11:52 AM
ILikePie
post Jan 2 2012, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Jan 1 2012, 08:43 PM)
haha.. Our car become more old.. Happy new year all saga / iswara owner..

Mine already 20 years..
Mind share yours..
*
8 years biggrin.gif


So hard to find the CAI hose to fit my LMST sad.gif
cyanboy
post Jan 2 2012, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Jan 2 2012, 11:52 AM)
6years ~ goin into 7... 2005 model lmst I think the oldest car here belongs to our TS ...
*
QUOTE(ILikePie @ Jan 2 2012, 01:07 PM)
8 years biggrin.gif
So hard to find the CAI hose to fit my LMST sad.gif
*
Officially owning my LMST for 1 month... icon_rolleyes.gif lol...
Wonder LMST Iswara design got so old dy sad.gif
hammerclaw69
post Jan 2 2012, 06:18 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Dec 30 2011, 11:54 PM)
For aftermarket products... Cam pulley will always be called Adjustable Cam Pulley aka ( ACP ) and yes its lighten as well that is for tuning your aftermarket cam shaft... and for ( LCP ) It will always be regarded as Lighten Crank Pulley It dosent really help in HP gains but it lessen the load when air con is turned on , so RPM can climb easier / faster / smoother or whatever they call it haha ...
*
Thanx for d xplanation bro... not realy updated with d shortforms hehe

Happy New year to all LYN Saga/Iswara Driver's
low yat 82
post Jan 2 2012, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Jan 1 2012, 08:43 PM)
haha.. Our car become more old.. Happy new year all saga / iswara owner..

Mine already 20 years..
Mind share yours..
*
mine Dis 2006... saga lmst 5 years liao.. starts to gib alot prob.. icon_question.gif

@cyan,
our car design is abit old. kotak kotak type.. lol.. nowadays car hav more curve...
Peekab0o
post Jan 2 2012, 08:26 PM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Jan 2 2012, 01:07 PM)
8 years biggrin.gif
So hard to find the CAI hose to fit my LMST sad.gif
*
Those aftermarket CAI hose with colour colour funnel ones ?

http://www.mudah.my/Flexible+cool+air+intake-12098468.htm

Like this ?
fleekreturn
post Jan 2 2012, 09:53 PM

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Mine 12 years d. If I were given a chance to change 1 thing about my car, it would be the windows. The design of the window is a bit deep as compared to newer car. Whenever travel at high speed give a lot of wind noise. Haih.. But i still love my ride~
cyanboy
post Jan 2 2012, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Jan 2 2012, 06:53 PM)
mine Dis 2006... saga lmst 5 years liao.. starts to gib alot prob..  icon_question.gif

@cyan,
our car design is abit old. kotak kotak type.. lol.. nowadays car hav more curve...
*
Haha... Fully agree with kotak-kotak style... Nowadays car want curve but also insist on lining... Complex till mudguard guy also complain susah ketuk...


QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Jan 2 2012, 08:26 PM)
Those aftermarket CAI hose with colour colour funnel ones ?

http://www.mudah.my/Flexible+cool+air+intake-12098468.htm

Like this ?
*
This is sold at kedai abang Rm40... Packing totally same... Thats call turbo hose I think... 3 inch... initially wanted to used that for my CAI but went for OEM one...


QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Jan 2 2012, 09:53 PM)
Mine 12 years d. If I were given a chance to change 1 thing about my car, it would be the windows. The design of the window is a bit deep as compared to newer car. Whenever travel at high speed give a lot of wind noise. Haih.. But i still love my ride~
*
What "deep" you mean? The gap between door outer panel metal and window?
ILikePie
post Jan 3 2012, 12:11 AM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Jan 2 2012, 08:26 PM)
Those aftermarket CAI hose with colour colour funnel ones ?

http://www.mudah.my/Flexible+cool+air+intake-12098468.htm

Like this ?
*
I mean OEM one same like cyanboy's hose biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by ILikePie: Jan 3 2012, 12:12 AM
DSV4600
post Jan 3 2012, 12:32 AM

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QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Jan 2 2012, 09:53 PM)
Mine 12 years d. If I were given a chance to change 1 thing about my car, it would be the windows. The design of the window is a bit deep as compared to newer car. Whenever travel at high speed give a lot of wind noise. Haih.. But i still love my ride~
*
Actually the windows are very quiet if you don't have those wind spoilers stuck at all 4 windows that are generating a lot of sound. My mom's car doesn't have them, and wind sound is pretty quiet even at high speeds.

If you want to reduce the wind sounds, you can do the following:
1) Use got quality tint that's thick (4mil - 8mil)
2) Soundproof your doors with good quality materials (KL Auto & EA Autoworks can do this)
3) Remove those wind spoilers, sure they're cool and makes the car sporty, but they're like wind amplifiers.
fleekreturn
post Jan 3 2012, 12:37 AM

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I didnt use any door visors. Already sound proof front door. Outside noise is quiet but the wind noise is like..... Cant explain. Haha. Maybe the rubber around the window already hardened?
[kuaLe]_AGX
post Jan 3 2012, 12:43 AM

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QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Jan 1 2012, 08:43 PM)
haha.. Our car become more old.. Happy new year all saga / iswara owner..

Mine already 20 years..
Mind share yours..
*
Saga already 22y.o
Iswara entering 13y.o biggrin.gif

@fleekreturn

i hav a same prob with u. Wind noise when speeding up above 120kmh = rclxub.gif
but on driver side only..on the left/passenger side there's almost no wind noise sweat.gif
DSV4600
post Jan 3 2012, 12:57 AM

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QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Jan 3 2012, 12:37 AM)
I didnt use any door visors. Already sound proof front door. Outside noise is quiet but the wind noise is like..... Cant explain. Haha. Maybe the rubber around the window already hardened?
*
Yes, could be an issue since your car already 12 years old.
Both my car & my mom is LMST, less than 8 years.
fleekreturn
post Jan 3 2012, 06:02 AM

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QUOTE(kuaLe_AGX @ Jan 3 2012, 12:43 AM)
Saga already 22y.o
Iswara entering 13y.o  biggrin.gif

@fleekreturn

i hav a same prob with u. Wind noise when speeding up above 120kmh =  rclxub.gif
but on driver side only..on the left/passenger side there's almost no wind noise  sweat.gif
*
Before this the passenger side no wind noise, now started to have. Haihh.. So I just decided to drive
below 120 km/h. sweat.gif


QUOTE(DSV4600 @ Jan 3 2012, 12:57 AM)
Yes, could be an issue since your car already 12 years old.
Both my car & my mom is LMST, less than 8 years.
*
Hmm maybe. Your mom's car didn't have the noise eh? Even at high speed? cool.gif
Im thinking to change our rectangular side mirror soon. The design is not aerodynamic at all. Haha
Peekab0o
post Jan 3 2012, 07:54 AM

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QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Jan 3 2012, 06:02 AM)
Before this the passenger side no wind noise, now started to have. Haihh.. So I just decided to drive
below 120 km/h.  sweat.gif
Hmm maybe. Your mom's car didn't have the noise eh? Even at high speed?  cool.gif
Im thinking to change our rectangular side mirror soon. The design is not aerodynamic at all. Haha
*
Nissan B13/Y10 autoflip mirror brows.gif
Lowenkreuz
post Jan 3 2012, 08:32 AM

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lai lai... kasi poison us ur auto flip side mirrot tongue.gif
Peekab0o
post Jan 3 2012, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Jan 3 2012, 08:32 AM)
lai lai... kasi poison us ur auto flip side mirrot tongue.gif
*
I ish no pasang autoflip brows.gif user posted image



chris_xi
post Jan 3 2012, 12:53 PM

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hi guys there seems to be a problem with the alarm of my '03 Iswara 1.3S. i took over from my father whom i think is a rough driver lol. about a month ago the alarm sound was slowly fading off whenever i activate it, and it's completely mute now for a couple of weeks. i thought it's not going to be a problem. just now when i activate it (unlock) to retrieve something from the car, it was ok. then problem came when i tried to lock it. the door locks pop back out as soon as it shut down. the next thing i saw was blinking of the turn signals without sound since it's mute now. the problem seems to be recurring and i had no idea but to lock the door manually.
what seems to be the problem?
poolcarpet
post Jan 3 2012, 03:37 PM

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I believe the alarm sound is just the alarm siren or connection problem.

For the knob popping up again immediately when you lock it, is it happening only on 1 door or all 4 doors? If 1 door only, you may need to remove and check the actuator. After some time, you need to lubricate all the moving parts of the actuator (use WD40) or if it's faulty, replace it original costs about RM50 or so I think.

If all 4 doors popping up, then I have no idea sorry smile.gif maybe alarm kaput?


QUOTE(chris_xi @ Jan 3 2012, 12:53 PM)
hi guys there seems to be a problem with the alarm of my '03 Iswara 1.3S. i took over from my father whom i think is a rough driver lol. about a month ago the alarm sound was slowly fading off whenever i activate it, and it's completely mute now for a couple of weeks. i thought it's not going to be a problem. just now when i activate it (unlock) to retrieve something from the car, it was ok. then problem came when i tried to lock it. the door locks pop back out as soon as it shut down. the next thing i saw was blinking of the turn signals without sound since it's mute now. the problem seems to be recurring and i had no idea but to lock the door manually.
what seems to be the problem?
*
low yat 82
post Jan 3 2012, 04:45 PM

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usual d front door will pop up back if u try lock it witout tarik d door handle...
cyanboy
post Jan 3 2012, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Jan 3 2012, 03:37 PM)
I believe the alarm sound is just the alarm siren or connection problem.

For the knob popping up again immediately when you lock it, is it happening only on 1 door or all 4 doors? If 1 door only, you may need to remove and check the actuator. After some time, you need to lubricate all the moving parts of the actuator (use WD40) or if it's faulty, replace it original costs about RM50 or so I think.

If all 4 doors popping up, then I have no idea sorry smile.gif maybe alarm kaput?
*
Tumpang bit... If want to access the actuator need take out the door panel then door plastic right?
The black rubber sticky thingy that sticks the door plastic is what ah? Spare part shop ada?


QUOTE(ILikePie @ Jan 3 2012, 12:11 AM)
I mean OEM one same like cyanboy's hose biggrin.gif
*
Lol... For aftermarket CAI guide... > http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry16327860

For OEM here:
QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 2 2011, 11:00 AM)
You can try get this CAI hose for RM60 without metal fastener at:
AME AUTO PARTS (PJ) SDN. BHD.
25, Jalan 21/11A SEA Park
Petaling Jaya 46300
Selangor.
(Beside CIMB Bank)

I just bought mine from there. It's a bit more expensive than where neosaint99 got it. But since it still have stock so okok lah... The stock one looked very nice in engine bay.

I asked the boss there he say still have some stock... He say if want more maybe need order (Since not in production dy means that's all left) Maybe can try there?
*
This post has been edited by cyanboy: Jan 3 2012, 04:59 PM
poolcarpet
post Jan 3 2012, 05:09 PM

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Yes to access actuator remove the door panel then plastic. Those black stuff will still be sticky after that you can just restick the plastic back. If you don't plan to remove the actuator, make sure you have a long nozzle spray as it's quite hard to see/access it. If you plan to remove then i think it's 2 to 3 screws holding it in place cannot remember exactly how many but not hard to figure out.

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Jan 3 2012, 04:56 PM)
Tumpang bit... If want to access the actuator need take out the door panel then door plastic right?
The black rubber sticky thingy that sticks the door plastic is what ah? Spare part shop ada?
Lol... For aftermarket CAI guide... > http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry16327860

For OEM here:
*
chris_xi
post Jan 3 2012, 06:19 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Jan 3 2012, 03:37 PM)
I believe the alarm sound is just the alarm siren or connection problem.

For the knob popping up again immediately when you lock it, is it happening only on 1 door or all 4 doors? If 1 door only, you may need to remove and check the actuator. After some time, you need to lubricate all the moving parts of the actuator (use WD40) or if it's faulty, replace it original costs about RM50 or so I think.

If all 4 doors popping up, then I have no idea sorry smile.gif maybe alarm kaput?
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i wonder what are the consequences of the muteness of the alarm sound if i prefer not to fix it as it seems to work properly (just without the sound)

tricky ones, it happened the first time on all doors, then only the right front and back door in the following times.

*but then when i made sure all the doors, hood and boot are closed properly, the popping out of the knob and the mute siren didn't happen anymore* hmm.gif
cyanboy
post Jan 3 2012, 08:32 PM

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QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Jan 3 2012, 05:09 PM)
Yes to access actuator remove the door panel then plastic. Those black stuff will still be sticky after that you can just restick the plastic back. If you don't plan to remove the actuator, make sure you have a long nozzle spray as it's quite hard to see/access it. If you plan to remove then i think it's 2 to 3 screws holding it in place cannot remember exactly how many but not hard to figure out.
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Ooo... But mine got some parts dried up dy... Can't stick well... Maybe will take a look tomorrow...
Btw you know what's that called?

QUOTE(chris_xi @ Jan 3 2012, 06:19 PM)
i wonder what are the consequences of the muteness of the alarm sound if i prefer not to fix it as it seems to work properly (just without the sound)

tricky ones, it happened the first time on all doors, then only the right front and back door in the following times.

*but then when i made sure all the doors, hood and boot are closed properly, the popping out of the knob and the mute siren didn't happen anymore*  hmm.gif
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Your car siren auto update ah? Now P1 and P2 cars lock/unlock no sound one... But will the siren work when alarm triggered? Thats more important nod.gif
Check the siren cable is it torn/short circuit or what... But since in your case the siren getting softer to mute, maybe siren went heaven? (Wonder how the siren can be abused) blink.gif

For the door locking maybe check central locking module?
But siren and central locking module never "kong" before in my proton's life...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Jan 3 2012, 08:37 PM
ILikePie
post Jan 3 2012, 11:17 PM

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Sadly, I'm in East Malaysia tongue.gif
cyanboy
post Jan 4 2012, 12:06 AM

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QUOTE(ILikePie @ Jan 3 2012, 11:17 PM)
Sadly, I'm in East Malaysia tongue.gif
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Did you try Proton stockist near your area?
If no then gotta try hard to find ur luck in half cut...
ILikePie
post Jan 4 2012, 09:37 AM

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QUOTE(cyanboy @ Jan 4 2012, 12:06 AM)
Did you try Proton stockist near your area?
If no then gotta try hard to find ur luck in half cut...
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Currently trying to find. Still in progress biggrin.gif
fleekreturn
post Jan 4 2012, 11:17 AM

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My alarm whenever arming or disarming the locking mechanism at driver side is not moving. Need to manually lock/unlock using key. I just live with it. Haha.
poolcarpet
post Jan 4 2012, 11:21 AM

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most prob actuator linkages need some WD40, or the actuator kaput already. mine had same prob on passenger side bodoh bodoh go buy the actuator RM50 to replace later found out just need some WD40. anyway replaced it since quite old already now cantik! smile.gif

QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Jan 4 2012, 11:17 AM)
My alarm whenever arming or disarming the locking mechanism at driver side is not moving. Need to manually lock/unlock using key. I just live with it. Haha.
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fleekreturn
post Jan 4 2012, 11:23 AM

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Spray at the gear there right?
poolcarpet
post Jan 4 2012, 11:30 AM

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no, the linkages.... all the long rods linking the knob to the actuator. actuator itself nothing visible to spray, it's all the links i.e. to the door handle, to the door 'striker' whatever you call it. just remove the plastic and look at all moving parts when you push pull the knob and spray every link! smile.gif
fleekreturn
post Jan 4 2012, 12:27 PM

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Oo that thing. Ok later will try it out.
DaBestOne
post Jan 5 2012, 12:49 PM

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From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.



My friend is thinking of getting a 2nd hand Saga... Prefer the car to be within 10 years old..... budget is around 15k, do you guys think it's worth it?
poolcarpet
post Jan 5 2012, 01:14 PM

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wah 2nd hand saga 15k for 10 year old? so good price? smile.gif

my iswara '99 i think can sell around 4-6k only, the last iswara year 2007 models also just a bit above 10k market price I think. but maybe if tip top condition well looked after probably worth paying a bit more.

You can check indicative market value here at www.autoclaims.com.my - will need to register for free account, and i think some valuation not accurate but good as reference point.

QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Jan 5 2012, 12:49 PM)
My friend is thinking of getting a 2nd hand Saga... Prefer the car to be within 10 years old..... budget is around 15k, do you guys think it's worth it?
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Peekab0o
post Jan 5 2012, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Jan 5 2012, 12:49 PM)
My friend is thinking of getting a 2nd hand Saga... Prefer the car to be within 10 years old..... budget is around 15k, do you guys think it's worth it?
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Get LMST 2004-2007 models . Should cost around 10-13k nowdays then spend another like 1-2k change some wear and tear parts.. im sure no mather how good condition the car is... some wear and tear parts are definitely passed away already lol ...

A link to share...

http://www.carthrottle.com/racing-with-the-proton-saga/

brows.gif


And for those who are looking for oem CAI intake box ...

http://www.mudah.my/Proton+Saga+Parts-13181394.htm

This post has been edited by Peekab0o: Jan 5 2012, 01:31 PM
low yat 82
post Jan 5 2012, 04:37 PM

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QUOTE(fleekreturn @ Jan 4 2012, 11:17 AM)
My alarm whenever arming or disarming the locking mechanism at driver side is not moving. Need to manually lock/unlock using key. I just live with it. Haha.
*
same wit me icon_question.gif icon_question.gif


poolcarpet
post Jan 5 2012, 05:39 PM

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hi all, anyone facing the autochoke problem in their iswara? morning start rpm low around 500, after warming up perfectly fine around 800-1000?

i asked a workshop nearby, he said can repair using a choke repair kit. total cost about RM150. i called local spare part shop, they said don't sell the kit.

anyone know where to buy the kit, and whether RM150 is a fair price to repair this? thanks!!
DSV4600
post Jan 5 2012, 06:38 PM

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QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Jan 5 2012, 01:23 PM)
Get LMST 2004-2007 models . Should cost around 10-13k nowdays then spend another like 1-2k change some wear and tear parts.. im sure no mather how good condition the car is... some wear and tear parts are definitely passed away already lol ...

A link to share...

http://www.carthrottle.com/racing-with-the-proton-saga/

brows.gif
And for those who are looking for oem CAI intake box ...

http://www.mudah.my/Proton+Saga+Parts-13181394.htm
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Yah, agree on getting the LMST models, as the milage won't be so high, and body all should be in good condition.
If got budget, look for the Merdeka Edition batch (2007 - 2008) models. Two colours only, black & orange.

And interesting article on the Saga racing.
thumbup.gif

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