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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V25, Keep it up!!! Old and Retro machines

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poolcarpet
post Nov 22 2011, 01:47 PM

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Just changed my stock cables to ori Proton-Bougicord cables. RM60 from nearest spare part shop smile.gif

I do notice that just changing the distributor cap + rotor arm already made the car feel more responsive. Hope the cables will improve it further and see if I can get closer to the so called published FC of 5.5l/100km blink.gif

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Nov 22 2011, 01:48 PM
poolcarpet
post Nov 22 2011, 04:38 PM

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key word is CLOSER tongue.gif tongue.gif tongue.gif not REACHING tongue.gif

BTW, anyone here ever bought the choke repair kit and diy repair the autochoke? I think my autochoke is gone, now feeling like repairing it.

After changing distributor cap + rotor arm + original spark plug cable, can feel idling better!!! At one point I didn't even realize engine was running!!!! smile.gif I changed all engine mountings not too long ago so it's solid!!


QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 22 2011, 04:18 PM)
Waliao so fast... Post #18...

Keep this up!
Published fc? Macam susah sikit... unsure.gif
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poolcarpet
post Nov 23 2011, 11:06 AM

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I believe it's leading/trailing. It could be just brake dust, last time I got mechanic to change rear drum brake pads for me, the amount of dust is unbelievable.

The brake pads should not cost much, less than RM50 for sure. See here only RM30 smile.gif but original part maybe slightly more expensive, not very sure.

Also found this one RM60 in mudah!

Maybe just get mech to change and clean the rear drum brakes and see how it goes?

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 23 2011, 10:59 AM)
Problem:
When I let my car roll down slope around 10-20km/h and pull handbrake, the rear drum brake giving me sound also...

1. Is LMST stock brakes leading/trailing type or duo servo?
2. Does this means that drum brake punye pads juga worn out?
3. Will it be "out-of-shape" resulting higher cost?
4. Cost around how much... (I'm paying by cash btw,later tak cukup wang then mati)
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This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Nov 23 2011, 11:56 AM
poolcarpet
post Nov 23 2011, 11:10 AM

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If it's been a while since changing the rear brake - might as well change it one shot. Clean one time pay $ for labour, later change another round $ labour... smile.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Nov 23 2011, 11:08 AM)
^

better if just check/clean brake dusts first lo, workmanship/labour maybe rm10-20 more/less

if still got sound maybe troubleshoot further/change drum brake pads
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poolcarpet
post Nov 23 2011, 02:12 PM

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26k km is too low for the rear brake shoes to wear out......

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Nov 23 2011, 12:47 PM)
Wow... Bendix seemed very branded it's brakes...
I don't think i'm going back to SC to kena cut throat... Btw the car is had been with me less than 1 month, clocking 26000km... I expect the owner didn't change before.
Got it... Will tengok-tengok how...
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poolcarpet
post Nov 24 2011, 03:08 PM

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I asked mg windscreen at ampang recently, rm320 for laminated incl install. Didnt change though cause mine is small crack only. Wait and see.

You can also try Glass mechanic ss2, they do repair and also change windscreen i think. I repaired my other car windscreen before, was a long 2-3 inch crack so far still ok now.
poolcarpet
post Nov 24 2011, 08:18 PM

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I think xm2 will cost rm170-180 for that size. If you dare, can try achilles brand rm120-130 i think. Indonesian tire. wink.gif

QUOTE(ThanatosSwiftfire @ Nov 24 2011, 08:00 PM)
Been using stock tyres since I got the car.. I think 185/60 R14
Erm.. I'm not so sure.. about <150/tire?
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poolcarpet
post Nov 28 2011, 10:00 PM

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For cd player go check out brothers in kelana jaya. They have branded jvc kenwood cd mp3 players for rm200 or so. Cheap. For the others not sure.... Painting i heard quite expensive these days about 1.5 k to 2 k above... Car seat someone in this formoffering the service located in selayang. Or try central car cushion in kepong. Should be around 1 k +- for wrapping front and rear seat.

QUOTE(JusticeDeserves @ Nov 27 2011, 02:19 AM)
Hey there..I have a Proton Iswara which is about 12 years old.. There is abit of aesthetic issues..The paint job is not nice anymore and the interior is still tolerable..Do you guys have any recomendations on place where i can do up the paint job and ketuk the indentions on the car?as well as a place where i have the option to do up the inside of the car example...the car seats,the cd player and speakers.. thanks guys
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poolcarpet
post Dec 1 2011, 10:04 PM

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same like mine... autochoke gone case. easy to tell. when you start in the morning, rpm will be about 500-600 with aircond off. after driving a while and for rest of the day, rpm will be around 800-1000.

autochoke should be the long thing with a spring, visible if you stand on driver side looking at the engine, directly below the air filter cover.


QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Dec 1 2011, 09:13 PM)
How can I confirm that its the autochoke that is spoil? Went to another mechanic today and he increased my idle RPM to about 1200RPM. He said to try to start tomorrow morning (cold start) and see if the RPM is still at 500RPM.

BTW, which is the autochoke for the car? If the vacuum hose is 'sumbat' can it cause this problem?
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poolcarpet
post Dec 2 2011, 02:31 PM

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this one?
http://www.lelong.com.my/iswara-aeroback-r...0-12-Sale-P.htm

although this seems to be entire set, maybe can find just the bottom part from spare part shop?

I also want to self DIY repaint the plastic bumper part, I totally know what you mean when you say grey white color smile.gif but never got round to try it yet... Probably standard automotive spray paint dove or DPI brand should work?


QUOTE(fangcheng @ Dec 2 2011, 02:28 PM)
hi,

anyone know where to get proton iswara aeroback rear bumper 2 red color reflector? mine stole by other ppl..

and anyone paint only for the grey color plastic all around the car before?how much?thinking to paint it since become grey white color.. smile.gif

thx
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poolcarpet
post Dec 7 2011, 12:32 AM

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I used to have timing tight, very easy to use (i used to self tune a 4g15...). Clip to plug cable number 1 i think, then shoot the light at the crank pulley. You should see a mark there. Loosen distributor and adjust till it's within manufacturers spec. I've tried adjusting too advanced (pinking at slightest load!) and too retarded too (tadak power)... It's interesting Wish i have a timing light to check my current 4g13...

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 6 2011, 11:50 PM)
Ok... SO our stock bumper is PU?

My vacuum gauge shows 21.3 when air con kicks in and 24.4 when idle... Ignition timing too advance right?
How to adjust ah?

I read some thread need timing light one.. What is it? How to use?

Or just go sc gao tim?
Recommended sc anyone? Going there for 30k km service.

Blacklisted Senaxis, RM90 for brake pads!!!
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poolcarpet
post Dec 7 2011, 11:23 AM

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i don't know, pinjam from my uncle last time now no more....

i looked around online and seems to cost >100 so no point buying, just ask mechanic to help check better or tune manually/by ear tongue.gif

i think just need to tune as advanced as possible without pinking, that's what you want to avoid. smile.gif


QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 7 2011, 10:56 AM)
lol...3 weeks..zzz
buy from amazon through agent..lol rm19x....
not sure wat its call..plastic or PU..lol

where u buy n install? wanna buy also...lol..

waa..how much?
IMHO, d important is how d reading reacts rather than d numbers... coz not sure how good is non branded 1..
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This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 7 2011, 11:24 AM
poolcarpet
post Dec 7 2011, 03:24 PM

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like marbles in a tin can.... iswara/wira very prone in this situation, when you are driving up a slope in high gear e.g. 4 or 5th gear, try flooring the accelerator and you'll start to hear this sound like marbles in tin can being shaken around. that is pinging or knocking. obviously when you hear this you should ease off the accelerator and downshift, because that sound basically means the fuel mixture is ignited when the piston is still on the way UP. not a good situation and can cause serious engine damage.





QUOTE(low yat 82 @ Dec 7 2011, 02:41 PM)
how actually pinkin n knockin sound like a? lol.. sound metal knock to metal?
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poolcarpet
post Dec 8 2011, 06:15 AM

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Yes the tin can with lots of marbles sound. Thats the engine pinging. So if you retard the timing, then pinging won't happen so easily but you lose a lot of power.

Have no idea what the other sound is, sound serious if everything seems to be falling apart and batt light flickering...

QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 8 2011, 12:23 AM)
I just floored on a slope at 5th gear... Got 2 sounds actually...
One sounds does sounded like knocking. Do you mean the tin can might not be that "kosong"? Cause it doesn't sound like "kong kong kong" but rather very thick walled and small tin can with lots of marbles...  blink.gif
Another sound is basically whole car shaking+jerking+dashboard+steering+4 wheels going to torn apart sound... Even the battery light also flickering dy if I dun downshift immediately
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 8 2011, 06:16 AM
poolcarpet
post Dec 8 2011, 10:44 PM

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My 12 yr old iswara still using ori spring! Springs hardly go bad unless you overload very often. If it's easy to press down, it's a sign absorber koyak, not spring. If spring koyak, i believe the car will sag down, i.e. lowered as the spring can no longer support the weight.

So go get yourself a pair of ori kayaba gas or apm performax rear absorber i think rm130 or so per pair and just change the absorbers first. Labor prob rm30 to 50? I'm guessing, cause i changed all 4 plus lower arm and labor was rm100. Probably cost you less than rm200 for this.


QUOTE(hammerclaw69 @ Dec 8 2011, 10:32 PM)
heated up and melted? dayumn... thats reli bad and if im not wrong you have to re-do d whole wiring for your car right?
yeah me too nt sure watz d cause sad.gif
n another thing is my rear absorber worn out too soon... using kayaba... standard oil wan... about 6 months d... nw keras edy...

is it advisable to change spring afta 6 years? cuz im thinking that , if the spring went too soft.. the absorber can worn out faster... wen use my fingers 2 press d spring it .. its juz goes too easy compare 2 new stock spring...
now thinking twice whether wana change d spring + absorber or just the absorber... any advise seefus?
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poolcarpet
post Dec 11 2011, 08:31 AM

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I'm using apm performax with stock spring and feel it's a bit stiff. Handling is good but i thnk i would have preferred a softer ride, should have gone for standard kayaba gas... But apm perfomax does provide quite good handling..
poolcarpet
post Dec 11 2011, 04:50 PM

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Kayaba gas should be stiffer than ori but softer than performax. It's in between and if you're just a casual driver i think kayaba gas will be best value for money. If you're a driving enthusiast then kayaba gas may be too 'boring' lol


QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Dec 11 2011, 02:18 PM)
Can the APM Absorbers be used with the stock Iswara springs? Or is there a matching spring that I can use but still retain the original ride height?

BTW, is the Kayaba Gas stiffer than the original absorbers but softer than APM? Can they be used with the ori springs as well?
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poolcarpet
post Dec 11 2011, 06:15 PM

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As far as i know, kayaba gas should be for standard spring. Apm performax can be with standard spring or apm sport spring (slightly lowered i think)
poolcarpet
post Dec 11 2011, 10:11 PM

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APM Performax Front pair - RM220
APM Performax Rear pair - RM130

These are the prices I paid for my shocks from nearest spare part shop. Shop around prices should be +- around here I guess, but for Kayaba gas, I would expect them to be slightly cheaper than the performax.

No idea on springs, sorry.

QUOTE(peachmonkey @ Dec 11 2011, 08:05 PM)
Thanks for the advice. Will look around town for the Kayaba Gas Shocks. Hopefully can get it installed by this year tongue.gif
BTW, how much does a pair of the absorbers cost? Want to make sure the shop won't 'potong' me with the price  brows.gif

Another thing forgot to ask, if I plan to change the springs in the future but want to maintain the standard height of the car, what spring is recommended? Looking for a balance between handling and comfort.
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poolcarpet
post Dec 13 2011, 10:59 AM

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the stock ori headlamp can be adjusted, there are 2 philips screws and you can adjust up-down left-right. if you've replaced with some local headlamp, those still can be adjusted up-down via a hex screw.

but someone suggested to swap the bulbs and see if it's the bulb being actually brighter or maybe just the headlamp reflector or plastic/glass cover not so cloudy/hazed on the left side?


QUOTE(Rhadykall @ Dec 13 2011, 10:49 AM)
Mine quite obvious haha. Tried pushing the small reflector inside the lamp left right up down but no noticeable difference in trying to lower the brightness on the left.
A friend did mention something about the left being brighter a bit but didn't know why. Checked gf's Persona after that but didn't notice any difference left and right. The NB+ sure made the difference VERY noticeable. Before this the left headlamp was tilted upwards which made it much worse. Even from near the beam can shine on those big signboards on highways I swear sweat.gif
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