5.
most iswaras have this starter problem (when the key is turned, it goes *click*,...but nothing happens)...this relay totally solves the problem
bought my iswara 1.3 and less than 2 months after i got it it started getting this prob
was reli irritating
i reported it to proton and they said it was my starter motor problem
they changed it for me
i drove back...and the problem happened again the next day
then they said must leave with them "for them to trouble shoot"
and then wen i came back in the evening, they said they "found a lose connection and that they tightened it"
so i drove back...and you guessed it....the prob was not solved...still the same crap
this prob is caused by the starter motor solenoid not getting enough current to fully engage
the circuit going through your key switch cant cope
i wired the relay myself
u can get it from any accessory shop
standard 30A auto relay...mine is by bosch
the relay costs 10bucks
then get the socket plastic for like 2 bucks
its basically a plastic guide where you can fix in all your wires...they then become like a pod of wires
the brass connector are like 10 cents a piece
these are used to connect the wires to the relay and to the starter motor solenoid
u'll need 5 females (4 for relay legs, 1 for starter motor solenoid connection) and 1 male (to connect your wire to the wire coming from your key)
the stock circuit is setup so that your starter motor solenoid gets its power from the wire coming from your key
NOTE: DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY BEFORE STARTING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
for those of you who are unfamiliar with the saga engine, the starter motor is located below the intake manifold
and for those of you who do not know wat an intake manifold is, i suggest you get a shop to do it for you

it should costs like rm30 onli...nothing more
so the circuit is like this:
WIRE No.1:
starter motor main cable (the thick bolted on one) connects to one of the supply legs of the relay (make a loop with your wire, that is stripped, and put the wire, then the starter motor cable and then the bolt back...in this sequence...or your wire will get damaged!)
WIRE No.2:
the other supply leg of the relay is connected to the solenoid connector (the place where you unplug the wire coming from your key...this wire has a little black plastic casing around it)
WIRE No.3:
the wire coming from your key is connected to one of the coil legs on the relay (remove the little black plastic cover by unhooking it from the metal connector) you'll have to make a short extension wire for this as the wire is too short to reach the relay if it is fixed on the firewall
WIRE No.4:
and the 2nd coil leg on the relay is earthed to a nut on car firewall
all my wire connections are insulated using sumi tube (heat shrink electrical insulater)
i hung the relay from the metal fuel line on the firewall using a cable tie
i'll take a shot of it later and upload it
this has totally absolutely 100% solved the problem
the starting issues have never happened again after i installed the relay
heres the pic as promised
the red wire goes to the starter motor main wire (the bolted one)
the green wire goes to the starter motor solenoid
the black wire on the left is earthed to the firewall
and the black wire on the right is connected to the wire coming from the ignition key




6.
this will give your car cold air just like the other hosing n all...but is much neater. Also, since its drawing air from the fender cavity, there should be negligeble spray n kick-up getting sucked in...this should keep your air filter cleaner longer