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Photography The Sony Alpha Thread V62, From A to E Mount!

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TSalbnok
post Oct 29 2015, 11:29 AM, updated 10y ago

Alpha Male
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4,956 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL


Welcome to V62!!!

Previous threads:
V61
V60
V59
V58 V57


user posted image

The Sony Alpha User List is managed by chiahau. Click here to jump to it!

Sony Alpha F.A.Q
courtesy of Ahmike

Common Kelvin White Balance Settings:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Wireless Flash Compatibility List:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Removing Pop-Up Flash Effect In Wireless Flash Mode:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Sony Alpha Lens Line-up: HERE courtesy of vcxv

Below are the official additional accessories* that comes with respective Sony Alpha camera:

Flash hotshoe cover (Sony FASHC1AM) - A100, A77 (soft version), A700, A900
Remote Commander clip - A100, A200, A300, A350, A700, A900
Eyepiece cover / flash hotshoe cover holder - A100, A200, A300, A350, A700
Cheap Sony neckstrap - A200, A300, A350
Good Sony neckstrap - A100, A77, A700, A900
Wireless Infrared Remote Control - A700, A900

* list provided by albnok

Sony Alpha Support Page and Alpha User Manuals: Sony Support Site A200 A300/A350 A700 A900

How to clean your Alpha sensor by albnok:



Some useful links:

Tamron/Sigma/Sony/Minolta 70-200mm F2.8 Shootout
http://www.glaringnotebook.com/default.asp?id=1243

Ultra Wide Comparison
http://www.glaringnotebook.com/default.asp?id=1324

Alpha street pricelist updated 26th October 2013:

Camera

Sony A230 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM14xx
Sony A290 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM14xx
Sony A330 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM18xx
Sony A380 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM20xx
Sony A380 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM24xx
Sony A390 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM17xx
Sony A33 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM21xx
Sony A33 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM23xx
Sony A35 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM21xx
Sony A37 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM15xx
Sony A500 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM31xx
Sony A550 body only = RM21xx
Sony A550 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM21xx
Sony A550 + 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM40xx
Sony A580 body only = RM24xx
Sony A580 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM27xx
Sony A55 body only + 8GB MSPD HX = RM21xx
Sony A55 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM25xx
Sony A55 + 50mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM26xx (Studio Zaloon)
Sony A55 + 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM37xx (Studio Zaloon)
Sony A57 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM18xx
Sony A58 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM19xx NEW
Sony A65 body only = RM26xx
Sony A65 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM28xx
Sony A700 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM33xx
Sony A77 body only = RM38xx
Sony A77 + 16-50mm F2.8 DT SSM = RM48xx
Sony A850 body only = RM61xx
Sony A900 body only = RM73xx (Studio Zaloon)
Sony A99 body only = RM74xx
Sony NEX-3 + 16mm F2.8 = RM16xx
Sony NEX-3 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS = RM18xx
Sony NEX-3 + 16mm F2.8 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS = RM22xx
Sony NEX-C3 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS = RM19xx
Sony NEX-F3 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS = RM18xx
Sony NEX-F3 + 16mm F2.8 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS = RM22xx
Sony NEX-F3 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS = RM25xx
Sony NEX-3N + 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 8GB SD (x2) = RM14xx NEW
Sony NEX-3N + 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS + 8GB SD = RM18xx NEW
Sony NEX-5 + 16mm F2.8 = RM21xx
Sony NEX-5 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS = RM22xx
Sony NEX-5 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 4GB MSPD = RM23xx
Sony NEX-5 + 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 Active OSS + 8GB MSPD + LCD protector = RM32xx
Sony NEX-5N + 16mm F2.8 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 8GB MSPD = RM26xx
Sony NEX-5R + 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 8GB SD = RM18xx
Sony NEX-5R + 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS + 8GB SD = RM25xx
Sony NEX-6 + 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 8GB SD = RM27xx
Sony NEX-6 + 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS + 8GB SD (x2) = RM34xx
Sony NEX-7 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS + 16GB SD = RM39xx
Sony VG-900 = RM94xx

The following suffixes identify what lens comes with the camera body:

G = Sony 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DT
K = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT
L = Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM
M = Sony 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM
P = Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT
Q = Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM (or Sony 16-50mm F2.8 DT SSM with A77)
W = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + Sony 75-300mm F4.5-5.6
X = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT
Y = Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT (2) SAM
Z = Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA

For Sony NEX bodies:

A = Sony E 16mm F2.8 pancake
D = Sony E 16mm F2.8 pancake + Sony E 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS
H = Sony E 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 Active OSS
K = Sony E 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 OSS
L = Sony E PZ 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS pancake
Y = Sony E PZ 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OSS pancake + Sony E 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS

Battery Grip

Sony VG-B30AM for A200/A300/A350 = RM6xx
Sony VG-B50AM for A450/A500/A550/A560/A580 = RM6xx
Sony VG-C70AM for A700 = RM9xx
Sony VG-C90AM for A850/A900 = RM9xx

Battery

Sony NP-FH50 battery for A230/A290/A330/A380/A390 = RM2xx
Sony NP-FW50 battery for NEX-3/NEX-C3/NEX-F3/NEX-3N/NEX-5/NEX-5N/NEX-5R/NEX-5T/NEX-6/NEX-7/A33/A35/A37/A55 = RM2xx
Sony NP-FM500H battery for A100/A200/A300/A350/A450/A500/A550/A560/A580/A700/A850/A900/A57/A58/A65/A77/A99 = RM2xx

Other Accessories

Sony FDA-EVS1 electronic viewfinder for NEX-5N = RM9xx

Flash

Sony HVL-F20S = RM3xx
Sony HVL-F20AM = RM4xx
Sony HVL-F42AM = RM7xx
Sony HVL-F43AM = RM7xx
Sony HVL-F58AM = RM11xx
Sony HVL-F60M = RM11xx

Sony/Minolta Used Lenses

Minolta 28mm F2.8 = RM450-600
Minolta 35-70 F4 (mini beercan) = RM250-400
Minolta 50mm F1.4 = RM750-850
Minolta 50mm F1.7 = RM450-600
Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT = RM450-550
Minolta 70-210mm F4 (beercan) = RM750-1100
Minolta 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 (big beercan) = RM1000-1500
Sony 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 = RM450-550

New APS-C / DT Crop Lenses

Samyang 8mm F3.5 = RM10xx
Sony 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 DT = RM20xx
Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA = RM25xx
Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM16xx
Sony 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM16xx
Sony 30mm F2.8 DT SAM Macro = RM7xx
Sony 35mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM6xx
Sony 50mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM5xx
Sigma 50-150mm F2.8 EX DC HSM Macro = RM30xx

E-mount Lenses For Alpha NEX Cameras

Sigma 19mm F2.8 EX DN = RM7xx
Sigma 30mm F2.8 EX DN = RM7xx
Sony E 30mm F3.5 Macro = RM7xx
Sony E 50mm F1.8 OSS = RM9xx
Sony E 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 Active OSS = RM21xx
Sony E Carl Zeiss 16-70mm F4 ZA = RM31xx NEW
Sony E 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS = RM8xx

New Full-Frame Lenses

Sony 16mm F2.8 Diagonal Fisheye = RM25xx
Sony 20mm F2.8 = RM19xx
Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-35mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx
Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 24-70mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx
Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 = RM18xx
Sony Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 24mm F2.0 SSM ZA = RM38xx
Sony 28mm F2.8 = RM8xx
Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM = RM26xx
Samyang 35mm F1.4 = RM15xx
Sony 35mm F1.4G = RM45xx
Sony 50mm F1.4 = RM10xx
Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 50mm F1.4 ZA SSM = RM42xx NEW
Sony 50mm F2.8 Macro = RM14xx
Sony 85mm F2.8 SAM = RM8xx
Samyang 85mm F1.4 = RM10xx
Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 Macro = RM30xx
Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG HSM Macro = RM38xx
Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM = RM54xx
Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM = RM25xx
Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM = RM54xx
Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA = RM50xx
Sony 100mm F2.8 Macro = RM23xx
Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA = RM48xx
Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus = RM36xx
Sony 500mm F8.0 AF Reflex = RM25xx
Sony 300mm F2.8G SSM = RM20xxx
Sony 1.4x Teleconverter = RM15xx
Sony 2.0x Teleconverter = RM15xx
Sony LA-EA1 lens adapter = RM5xx
Sony LA-EA2 lens adapter = RM9xx
Sony VCL-ECF1 fisheye adapter = RM3xx

Userbars!

NEX: http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff385/shahibbul/AlphaNex-2.png (thanks to shahibbul!)

A100: image url: http://img409.imageshack.us/img409/2687/alpha100cb9.png

A200: image url: http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1922/a200.png

A230: image url: http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8318/a230.png

A300: image url: http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/2802/a300.png

A330: image url: http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/4850/a330.png

A350: image url: http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3761/a350.png

A380: image url: http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/4733/a380.png

A390: image url: http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5741/a390.png

A550: image url: http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/2650/a550.png

A700: image url: http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/7245/a700.png

A850: image url: http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/8928/a850.png

A900: image url: http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/5185/alpha900wp4.png

QUOTE(edpaul @ Jul 18 2014, 04:45 PM)
User List, if you have any question you may directly PM some of the user with the same camera for solutions smile.gif

NEX 3 Series
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


NEX 5 Series
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


NEX-6
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


NEX-7
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The New Generation Alpha E mount
A3000
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


A5000
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


A6000
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The Alpha FE mount (FullFrame)

A7
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


A7R
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


A7S
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
This post has been edited by albnok: Feb 3 2016, 01:20 AM
TSalbnok
post Oct 29 2015, 11:30 AM

Alpha Male
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Elite
4,956 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL


QUOTE(edpaul @ Jul 18 2014, 04:44 PM)
MODERATOR NOTE: "APP/SOFTWARE SHARING" IS NOT ALLOWED HERE.

Previous NEX Threads
----------------------
The SONY NEX Discussion Thread V5
The SONY NEX Discussion Thread Ver. 3N
The SONY NEX Discussion Thread Ver. 3
The SONY NEX Discussion Thread Ver. 2
The SONY NEX Discussion Thread Ver. 1

Lowyat.Net NEX Photo Gallery
---------------------------------
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1480097

Sony Workshops
---------------------------------
user posted image
Sony Alpha Workshop Listing

Sony software links (play memories, Image Data Converter, Music Transfer, Remote Camera Control)
---------------------------------
Sony Imaging Software
playmemoriescameraapps
Review pages
--------------
NEX-3 and NEX-5:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/SonyNex5Nex3/

NEX-C3:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonynexc3/

NEX-F3:
DPreview of sony-alpha-nex-f3
http://www.engadget.com/2012/05/31/sony-nex-f3-review/

NEX-3N
hpopphoto camera-test-sony-alpha-nex-3n

NEX-5N:
http://www.dpreview.com/products/sony/slrs/sony_nex5n

NEX-5R:
photographyblog  sony_nex_5r_review

NEX-6:
techradar Nex-6 Early Review
ephotozine review sony-nex-6
dxomark Reviews Sony-NEX-6-The-compact-hybrid-synthesis

NEX-7:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonynex7/

NEX-7N:

A7:

A7R:
cameralabs.com  reviews Sony_Alpha_A7r

E-Mount Lenses review:
http://www.photozone.de/sony_nex
Kurt review of Tamron 18200 NEX
ephotozine.com tamron-18-200mm-f-3-5-6-3-di-iii-vc-nex-lens-review
Kurt review of sony_nex_55_210mm
review-sony-50mm-f1-8-nex
lenstip Lens_review-Sigma_19_mm_f_2.8_EX_DN
lenstip Lens_review-Sigma_30_mm_f_2.8_EX_DN
slrlensreview carl-zeiss-sonnar-24mm-f18-nex-lens-review
ephotozine sony-e-35mm-f-1-8-oss-lens-review
soundimageplus.blogspot.be 16-50mm-lens-for-nex review (honest and frank)
luminous-landscape review sony_10-18_e_mount_for_nex
kurtmunger sony_nex_carl_zeiss_24

SEL1670Z Zeiss 16-70 f4
Adapters
--------------------------------

Sony LA-EA1
Sony LA-EA2

metabones-ef-to-e-mount-adapter-for-sony-nex-review
Kipon
sony-nex-5-and-adapter-a-quick-test-with-the-leica-50-summarit-lens
http:/fotodiox-pro-lens-mount-adapter-canon-eos-lens-to-sony-alpha-nex-camera-adapter-fit-sony-nex-3-nex-5-fits-eos-ef-and-efs-lenses

Sony accessories
---------------------------------
Sony NEX Accessories
E-mount System Chart
NEX-3,5,6,7 Firmware links
---------------------------------
http://www.sony-asia.com/support/productca...+e+mount+camera

1. Click on the picture of your camera or type in your model in the search textbox.
2. Click on the Downloads Tab.
3. Select your operating system
4. Click on 'Go to Download Page' link
5. Please follow the detailed instructions and illustrations provided by Sony.

Upgrading of firmware is a risky procedure; do it with utmost care and attention:
When performing the firmware upgrade, please use a fully charged rechargeable battery pack NP-FW50 or the AC adaptor AC-PW20 (sold separately).

Do not remove the battery or AC adaptor during the upgrade; otherwise, the camera may become inoperable due to the sudden power shutdown.

Remove the memory card from the camera beforehand.

When using an A-mount lens with the LA-EA2 Mount Adaptor (sold separately) and setting to use the AF Micro Adj. function, the registered value is reset

Helpful Tutorials and Step by Steps for NEX:

General:
Sensor Sizes and Crop Factors
Ken Rockwell tutorials
photopursue depth-of-field-examples
globetrotterdiaries love-is-in-the-air-create-your-own-heart-shaped-bokeh

photographymad 10-top-photography-composition-rules
colorpilot composition_rules
wikipedia wiki Composition_visual_arts
Alpha/NEX Specific:
Alpha Lighting Guide/Brochure
Search - Sony Support
sony uk - learn and enjoy (various topics on Cybershot,DSLRs and Handycam)

sonyalphanex.blogspot, clean sensor function of sony-nex-camera
Youtube Steve Huff on Focus Peaking
SonyAlphaLabs Tutorials
NEX6 IR Mod
Seagull SYK for NEX. To trigger external flash by ignoring preflash
Sharpening NEX-7 files
Eiraku
post Oct 29 2015, 11:56 AM

Geeking since 1985!
*******
Senior Member
7,037 posts

Joined: Apr 2006


BTW, I learned something new today. Vignetting is not JUST caused by stuff blocking your AOV (angle of view) - aka stacking filters too high or using too many step up rings. There's a whole bunch of other reasons for it (unfortunately). I WAS aware of most of these.

What I was NOT aware of is what happens (vignetting-wise) when using UWAs with high factor ND filters (like an ND3.0/ND1000) at very long exposures.

Apparently, light passing into the UWAs travel through the ND at different angles (due to the filters being flat when the front element usually isn't) thus causing additional vignetting (or more accurately, light fall-off). Plus the long exposures already worsen whatever native vignetting the lens already has (which UWAs usually suffer a lot from, comparatively).

Still trying to figure out if this Long Exposure ND Fall-Off thing is actually what's happening to me and my Samyang 12 though, I do have a few more tests to run before I can confirm if this is the case.

Will continue testing and will report back here.

Apologies if this is old news though - it does seem helpful to note before the next person comes and wonders why his UWA is vignetting unnecessarily - though most of the time nowadays in-camera correction usually does all the work for you.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Oct 29 2015, 01:59 PM
bdrc
post Oct 29 2015, 02:16 PM

Regular
******
Senior Member
1,626 posts

Joined: Feb 2007
From: Kuala Lumpur


Some goodies from iPoh, using telelens for wide shot, and wideangle for close shot:

user posted image纨绔 by RICO Lee, on Flickr

user posted image纨绔 by RICO Lee, on Flickr
mastering89
post Oct 29 2015, 04:12 PM

miao miao
*******
Senior Member
2,546 posts

Joined: Jan 2009
From: Cyberjaya
hi all

I'm having problem with the play memories camera app.
I'm on mac and not able to sync with the web app , to purchase/update app.
keep on popping up something like this sad.gif

any solution on mac?
using safari of course
user posted image
mastering89
post Oct 29 2015, 04:31 PM

miao miao
*******
Senior Member
2,546 posts

Joined: Jan 2009
From: Cyberjaya
Ok ended up adding the paypal as fund on wallet thru safari.
Then purchase app via camera itself.

rclxub.gif doh.gif
IwanAGP
post Oct 29 2015, 11:29 PM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,590 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(kucau @ Oct 28 2015, 09:50 PM)
hi guys,

i think this is my first post here since i left sony few yrs ago . started  my camera journey  with A200 during alphanatic forum day.. converted to nikon and then now with sony because of awesome A7 series.... few months ago i brought 2 bodies to Nz. d600 and a7r. .....  a7 was so good ,  most of the time the d600 was left in our caravan.  Lemme post few pic of that trip using a7r mark 1 and  sony fe and samyang fe... any Cnc is appreciated
1) user posted imageMilkyway, Aurora Australis and Church by Yusri Saleh, on Flickr
2) user posted imagePurakaunui Fall by Yusri Saleh, on Flickr

3) user posted imageTasman Heaven by Yusri Saleh, on Flickr

4)user posted imageAlone by Yusri Saleh, on Flickr

5)user posted imagetasmanianworld by Yusri Saleh, on Flickr

6) user posted imagenugget point lighthouse by Yusri Saleh, on Flickr

7)user posted imageHooker Valley by Yusri Saleh, on Flickr

8)user posted imageDreamy Tree by Yusri Saleh, on Flickr
Please visit my flick or 500px acc for more shots. tq
*
All by fish eye lens? Then you straighten er... "de-fisheye" the picture to look normal? I see some of it doesn't have fish eye effect.
Eiraku
post Oct 30 2015, 12:10 AM

Geeking since 1985!
*******
Senior Member
7,037 posts

Joined: Apr 2006


QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Oct 29 2015, 11:29 PM)
All by fish eye lens? Then you straighten er... "de-fisheye" the picture to look normal? I see some of it doesn't have fish eye effect.
*
Apparently from the EXIF it's split between a Samyang FE (prolly the 12mm FF FE - but as always no EXIF info) and the SEL1635Z. The ones with less distortion is probably the Zeiss.

But yeah, I'd wait for the man of the hour to give us more definite answers behind these beautiful set of pics.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Oct 30 2015, 12:18 AM
IwanAGP
post Oct 30 2015, 12:15 AM

Nothing is Possible!
*******
Senior Member
9,590 posts

Joined: Jan 2008
From: S'wak||KL||SG


QUOTE(Eiraku @ Oct 30 2015, 12:10 AM)
Apparently from the EXIF it's split between a Samyang FE (poll the 12mm FF FE) and the SEL1635Z. The ones with less distortion is probably the Zeiss.

But yeah, I'd wait for the man of the hour to give us more definite answers behind these beautiful set of pics.
*
Haha I didn't click into it to view.

http://www.lonelyspeck.com/defish/

Omg see what this guy done with the Rokinon/Samyang 8mm F2.8 FE for the APSC.

But that will involve PP-ing every photo before posting it. Tiring hmm.gif hmm.gif
Eiraku
post Oct 30 2015, 12:28 AM

Geeking since 1985!
*******
Senior Member
7,037 posts

Joined: Apr 2006


QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Oct 30 2015, 12:15 AM)
Haha I didn't click into it to view.

http://www.lonelyspeck.com/defish/

Omg see what this guy done with the Rokinon/Samyang 8mm F2.8 FE for the APSC.

But that will involve PP-ing every photo before posting it. Tiring  hmm.gif  hmm.gif
*
But you get wider pics lol. So it really depends, a wider AOV (8mm) vs convenience + wider aperture + filters (12mm). In the perfect world where cost/ease of transport isn't an issue, I'd say why choose: Get both.

Unfortunately for me, with my limited funds, that wasn't really an option lol. So I chose one that's easier to work with: The 12.

Not that posting normal pics from the 12 involved zero PP either - everything I post out must at least go through some simple PP-ing on my phone first (PhotoEditor on Android is a wonderful quick-PP tool). Less work than pics from an FE, yes. But not entirely zero processing work either.

Though again, I'd really like know how kucau handles workflow. Those photos feel like they have been lovingly PP-ed, hence the results.

BTW, is it just me or does anybody else see FE more as Full-frame E-mount rather than Fisheye lol?

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Oct 30 2015, 01:26 AM
Silverfire
post Oct 30 2015, 07:48 AM

Cruxiaer
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Senior Member
4,947 posts

Joined: Nov 2007



QUOTE(Eiraku @ Oct 30 2015, 12:28 AM)
But you get wider pics lol. So it really depends, a wider AOV (8mm) vs convenience + wider aperture + filters (12mm). In the perfect world where cost/ease of transport isn't an issue, I'd say why choose: Get both.

Unfortunately for me, with my limited funds, that wasn't really an option lol. So I chose one that's easier to work with: The 12.

Not that posting normal pics from the 12 involved zero PP either - everything I post out must at least go through some simple PP-ing on my phone first (PhotoEditor on Android is a wonderful quick-PP tool). Less work than pics from an FE, yes. But not entirely zero processing work either.

Though again, I'd really like know how kucau handles workflow. Those photos feel like they have been lovingly PP-ed, hence the results.

BTW, is it just me or does anybody else see FE more as Full-frame E-mount rather than Fisheye lol?
*
I see FE as full frame E-mount icon_rolleyes.gif
IazHes
post Oct 30 2015, 09:34 AM

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i see as Full frame E-mount either, but if you put "FishEye(FE)" then most ppl will understand it.

The "12" here you mean which lens ?
philipcs
post Oct 30 2015, 09:39 AM

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QUOTE(IazHes @ Oct 30 2015, 09:34 AM)
i see as Full frame E-mount either, but if you put "FishEye(FE)" then most ppl will understand it.

The "12" here you mean which lens ?
*
I guess Samyang 12mm Fisheye?
Eiraku
post Oct 30 2015, 10:40 AM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Oct 30 2015, 09:39 AM)
I guess Samyang 12mm Fisheye?
*
Nop in my case 12 = Samyang 12mm f2 NTFE (Not-The-Fish-Eye), cause I prefer APSC optimised lenses as they are smaller and I don't run FF for that very reason (size). Apologies for not being more specific.

I was replying to IwanAGP's post which was referring to the Samyang 2.8/8 APSC, which is one of the original 2 members of Samyang's specialised mirrorless only range (which now the new 1.2/50 and the 1.4/21 are part of). The other original member of the range is the Samyang 2/12.

Hence I mentioned the 2/12 as just "the 12"... I kinda missed the fact that there was the 2.8/12 Fisheye from Samyang as well lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Oct 30 2015, 12:29 PM
esmonde
post Oct 30 2015, 09:46 PM

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Hi Guys,

I just bought a SEL50F18 on 28October2015. I am trying to register my lens in Sony Malaysia website and it says invalid product?

Am I getting a non-local set? Am I being CON?

Thank you.
gin&tonic
post Oct 30 2015, 09:48 PM

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QUOTE(esmonde @ Oct 30 2015, 09:46 PM)
Hi Guys,

I just bought a SEL50F18 on 28October2015. I am trying to register my lens in Sony Malaysia website and it says invalid product?

Am I getting a non-local set? Am I being CON?

Thank you.
*
Call Sony Malaysia to register warranty.
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post Oct 30 2015, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(gin&tonic @ Oct 30 2015, 09:48 PM)
Call Sony Malaysia to register warranty.
*
Ok bro. Thank you for the advice.

I was feeling suspicious as when open the box, there is a label says For US customers only.... rclxub.gif
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post Oct 30 2015, 09:51 PM

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Double Post

This post has been edited by esmonde: Oct 30 2015, 09:51 PM
kucau
post Oct 30 2015, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Oct 30 2015, 12:10 AM)
Apparently from the EXIF it's split between a Samyang FE (prolly the 12mm FF FE - but as always no EXIF info) and the SEL1635Z. The ones with less distortion is probably the Zeiss.

But yeah, I'd wait for the man of the hour to give us more definite answers behind these beautiful set of pics.
*
yup. some 1635 zeiss and some samyang fisheye 12mm defish using photoshop warp

kucau
post Oct 30 2015, 10:56 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Oct 29 2015, 01:02 AM)
Not sure if I can provide any CnC lol... the shots are simply breathtaking - really does justice to the scenery. Wondering if you can share some your landscape techniques even.

I particularly like No. 2, 6 and 7. One thing's for sure, you have one instant Flickr follower already: Me!

Glad to see a fellow former A200 user though. Great little starter cam, right?
*
hi, my technique is very simple actually. i shoot mostly apperture priority except for milkyway, and some seascape where i want the shutter speed around 1/4. iso 100 to max dynamic range and clean image. . i try to play apperture around f8 to f11 to reduce chance of diffraction. my WB is usually auto. hahahah ..u can adjust WB later. RAW is a must.. im very lucky to have high dynamic range a7r where i can minimise gnd usage ... gnd or any other filters may degrade your final result. shoot ETTL and recover shadow later.


most important, free your mind from all technicall stuffs... your end result is picture. not gadgets , not complicated setting. focus MORE on composition. composition is king in landscape. hari2 tgk 500px. art is not science , u have to feel it. hoe? by looking at awesome image everyday untill it goes into your heart... get a cheap camera as a start. of course u will be limited with entry level camera , but i found out i learned max during my a200 days...


when u reach certain level and u have enuff skill and knowledge get the best stuffs money can buy. high mpx camera is prone to shake. get very good tripod and head. i use feisol and rrs tripod.

if you r interested with my editing style u may have a look at this utube


https://youtu.be/loX4R3WntjQ

i still have lots to learn....imho


This post has been edited by kucau: Oct 30 2015, 11:01 PM
gin&tonic
post Oct 30 2015, 11:11 PM

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QUOTE(kucau @ Oct 30 2015, 10:56 PM)
hi, my technique is very simple actually. i shoot mostly apperture priority except  for milkyway, and some seascape  where i want  the shutter speed around 1/4. iso 100 to max dynamic range and clean image. . i try to play apperture around f8 to f11  to reduce chance of diffraction.  my WB is usually auto. hahahah ..u can adjust WB later. RAW is a must.. im very lucky to have  high dynamic range a7r  where i can minimise gnd usage ... gnd or any other filters may degrade your final result. shoot ETTL and recover shadow later.
most important, free your mind from all technicall stuffs... your end result is picture. not gadgets , not complicated setting. focus MORE on composition. composition is king in landscape. hari2 tgk 500px. art is not science ,  u have to feel it. hoe? by looking at awesome image everyday untill it goes into your heart... get a cheap camera as a start.  of course u will be limited with entry level camera , but i found out i learned max during my a200 days...
when u reach certain level and u have enuff skill and knowledge get the best stuffs money can buy.  high mpx camera is prone to shake. get  very good tripod and head.  i use feisol and rrs tripod.

if  you r interested with my editing style u may have a look at this utube
https://youtu.be/loX4R3WntjQ

i still have lots to learn....imho
*
notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

Eiraku
post Oct 30 2015, 11:28 PM

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QUOTE(kucau @ Oct 30 2015, 10:56 PM)
most important, free your mind from all technicall stuffs... your end result is picture. not gadgets , not complicated setting. focus MORE on composition. composition is king in landscape. hari2 tgk 500px. art is not science ,  u have to feel it. hoe? by looking at awesome image everyday untill it goes into your heart... get a cheap camera as a start.  of course u will be limited with entry level camera , but i found out i learned max during my a200 days...
*
Sagely advice indeed boss.

Thanks for the YouTube link. Will check it out soon.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Oct 30 2015, 11:29 PM
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post Oct 31 2015, 08:38 AM

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Hows everybody....anyone keen to meet up for cam discussion...need to relearn.

domo_kun
post Oct 31 2015, 08:48 AM

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So... basically, no photo will be picture perfect until it's being edited la? unsure.gif
Eiraku
post Oct 31 2015, 01:22 PM

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Apparently there should be a meet-up set for tomorrow. But the guy in charge ( asrul ) has gone quiet lol.

If anybody is still up for a meet up, let's schedule something for tomorrow. I say meet up at Coffee Coffea The Curve tomorrow at around 2 (after lunch)? Anybody interested?

domo_kun PP is not editing IMHO, it's like developing film. Editing is when you put Justin Bieber's head on a beaver's body lol.

So, in general, yeah the final photo isn't usually done SOOC (unless you get really lucky and the planets all align) - it usually needs PP to shine.

Usually. Like I said before, there are exceptions to the rule. And normal snapshots don't count either lol - they're usually fine SOOC.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 1 2015, 11:38 AM
philipcs
post Oct 31 2015, 04:18 PM

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Bought a Nissin i40 today from JOne Amcorp Mall. Will compare with Meike MK320
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post Oct 31 2015, 04:43 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Oct 31 2015, 04:18 PM)
Bought a Nissin i40 today from JOne Amcorp Mall. Will compare with Meike MK320
*
Nice... how much izzit from JOne?

Keep in mind though, the i40 will definitely outclass the 320 in terms of sheer power. That said, Direct/Bounce TTL comparisons will be appreciated though - to see if the i40 TTLs better than the 320.
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post Oct 31 2015, 08:53 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Oct 31 2015, 04:43 PM)
Nice... how much izzit from JOne?

Keep in mind though, the i40 will definitely outclass the 320 in terms of sheer power. That said, Direct/Bounce TTL comparisons will be appreciated though - to see if the i40 TTLs better than the 320.
*
Yes. I tested i40 from my brother in law before, sure better power especially bounce to ceiling.

I bought RM680. The shop at main entrance (DC Pro) selling RM690.
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post Oct 31 2015, 09:36 PM

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user posted imageNissin i40 vs Meike MK320 by -philipcs-

user posted imageNissin i40 vs Meike MK320 by -philipcs-

user posted imageCeiling bounce Meike MK320 by -philipcs-

user posted imageCeiling bounce Nissin i40 by -philipcs-
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post Oct 31 2015, 10:33 PM

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philipcs Thanks, that was very helpful, especially from the TTL point of view. Clearly the 4 batteries on the i40 gives it a big advantage.

The size comparison does make the mk320 look small compared to the i40. How is the weight difference?

Are you keeping the Meike? It still makes for a very compact second flash gun that has optical slave capabilities for multi flash setups.

And yeah, tomorrow. I'll be hanging around the Curve to do some work, so do buzz me here if anybody's interested to TT.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Oct 31 2015, 10:34 PM
asrul
post Nov 1 2015, 11:01 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Oct 31 2015, 01:22 PM)
Apparently there should be a meet-up set for tomorrow. But the guy in charge ( asrul ) has gone quiet lol.

If anybody is still up for a meet up, let's schedule something for tomorrow. I say meet up at Coffee Coffea The Curve tomorrow at around 2 (after lunch)? Anybody interested?

domo_kun PP is not editing IMHO, it's like developing film. Editing is when you put Justin Bieber's head on a beaver's body lol.

So, in general, yeah the final photo isn't usually done SOOC (unless you get really lucky and the planets all align) - it usually needs PP to shine.

Usually. Like I said before, there are exceptions to the rule.
*
eh sorry i totally forgot and totally busy with this coming month (november).
POTUS is coming and i am indirectly involved in the event cry.gif
philipcs
post Nov 1 2015, 11:26 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Oct 31 2015, 10:33 PM)
philipcs Thanks, that was very helpful, especially from the TTL point of view. Clearly the 4 batteries on the i40 gives it a big advantage.

The size comparison does make the mk320 look small compared to the i40. How is the weight difference?

Are you keeping the Meike? It still makes for a very compact second flash gun that has optical slave capabilities for multi flash setups.

And yeah, tomorrow. I'll be hanging around the Curve to do some work, so do buzz me here if anybody's interested to TT.
*
I40=316g with 4 batt
MK320=199g with 2 batt
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post Nov 1 2015, 11:34 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Oct 31 2015, 08:48 AM)
So... basically, no photo will be picture perfect until it's being edited la?  unsure.gif
*
that depends what are you shooting for.

most JPEGS with in camera processing look fine to me
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post Nov 1 2015, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 1 2015, 11:01 AM)
eh sorry i totally forgot and totally busy with this coming month (november).
POTUS is coming and i am indirectly involved in the event  cry.gif
*
Bro Bama is coming? TPP related stuff issit?

philipcs Twice as heavy (almost) than the 320 for twice the power. Makes for a very appropriate step up the flash ladder.

Thanks for all the comparisons Bro!
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post Nov 1 2015, 12:17 PM

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[quote=Eiraku,Nov 1 2015, 11:37 AM]
Bro Bama is coming? TPP related stuff issit?

am not sure laugh.gif

but this is the chance to see closely how rumah putih photographer works
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post Nov 1 2015, 12:31 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 1 2015, 12:17 PM)
am not sure  laugh.gif

but this is the chance to see closely how rumah putih photographer works
*
You mean Rumah Putih's Tog and his A7RII lol.

Anyway, I'll be lepaking at the Curve for the day. Come along to Coffee Coffea if anybody feels like TT-ing.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 1 2015, 12:37 PM
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post Nov 1 2015, 12:36 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 1 2015, 12:31 PM)
You mean Rumah Putih's Tog and his A7RII lol.
*
yeah.
its very different compared to how our govt handle the photog.
the rumah putih can roam easily and he even given authority to control the lighting of the hall etc
IwanAGP
post Nov 1 2015, 01:24 PM

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QUOTE(zstan @ Nov 1 2015, 11:34 AM)
that depends what are you shooting for.

most JPEGS with in camera processing look fine to me
*
But for A6000, I don't really like the in camera jpeg white balance under incandescent light and candle light. Time for a flash? laugh.gif
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post Nov 1 2015, 02:39 PM

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QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 1 2015, 01:24 PM)
But for A6000, I don't really like the in camera jpeg white balance under incandescent light and candle light. Time for a flash?  laugh.gif
*
what don't u like about it? if you use flash you would already kill the warm ambient mood. so if that's your objective then flash is a good option.
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QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 1 2015, 01:24 PM)
But for A6000, I don't really like the in camera jpeg white balance under incandescent light and candle light. Time for a flash?  laugh.gif
*
Shoot RAW and adjust as needed? Or just manually adjust WB in-camera - there's always "Custom" if the presets aren't to your liking.

Sometimes flash ruins the ambience of a scene. Sometimes.
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QUOTE(zstan @ Nov 1 2015, 02:39 PM)
what don't u like about it? if you use flash you would already kill the warm ambient mood. so if that's your objective then flash is a good option.
*
Haha... Flash the candle only possible?

Sometimes it will just be too warm overall that the area around the candle will look seriously weird.

QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 1 2015, 02:40 PM)
Shoot RAW and adjust as needed? Or just manually adjust WB in-camera - there's always "Custom" if the presets aren't to your liking.

Sometimes flash ruins the ambience of a scene. Sometimes.
*
biggrin.gif See how see how. Where got so much time do Custom WB. Not shooting RAW full time. Only when I think I need the dynamic range haha
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post Nov 1 2015, 05:30 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Oct 31 2015, 01:22 PM)
domo_kun PP is not editing IMHO, it's like developing film. Editing is when you put Justin Bieber's head on a beaver's body lol.
So, in general, yeah the final photo isn't usually done SOOC (unless you get really lucky and the planets all align) - it usually needs PP to shine.
Usually. Like I said before, there are exceptions to the rule. And normal snapshots don't count either lol - they're usually fine SOOC.
*
What's PP? Finally, I've collected my Sammy 12mm/F.20 earlier today. Those who are eyeing for Sigma 19mm/F2.8 can get it from the same shop, too, about RM730 or so.


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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 1 2015, 05:30 PM)
What's PP? Finally, I've collected my Sammy 12mm/F.20 earlier today. Those who are eyeing for Sigma 19mm/F2.8 can get it from the same shop, too, about RM730 or so.
*
Which shop bro? How much is the Samyang 12MM?
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post Nov 1 2015, 06:57 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 1 2015, 05:30 PM)
What's PP? Finally, I've collected my Sammy 12mm/F.20 earlier today. Those who are eyeing for Sigma 19mm/F2.8 can get it from the same shop, too, about RM730 or so.
*
Post Processing. Most of the time it means Lightroom... But you can also PP in Capture One... or PhotoNinja... or even Photoshop - but without the editing, just adjustments.

And nice to hear you've gotten your Samyang 2/12. How is it? Wide enough for you? Be mindful though that the hard infinity stop isn't actually infinity, it's usually at that infinity marker before the hard stop (or if you get a slightly misalibrated lens, somewhere before or after it).

The DOF is huge for this lens if you shoot at f/8, but if you focus beyond infinity everything will just blur out, so be careful.

BTW, the PlayMemories WIFI remote control app can (finally) do Bulb-mode with the latest update - which actually makes it useful as a remote now.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 1 2015, 07:50 PM
lwliam
post Nov 1 2015, 07:51 PM

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Using a flash doesn't necessarily mean killing the ambient.

user posted image

user posted image

This post has been edited by lwliam: Nov 1 2015, 07:56 PM
Eiraku
post Nov 1 2015, 09:27 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 1 2015, 07:51 PM)
Using a flash doesn't necessarily mean killing the ambient.
*
True. Like I said, sometimes.

In the case of the candlelight thing, as mentioned by IwanAGP, it will be a bit harder to add additional light sources without at least *altering* the mood/ambience somewhat. Especially when you consider that flash and candlelight has different colour temps.

It can be done, but it will be slightly harder... especially if you wanna capture both the ambience and the subject. Fstoppers (or Petapixel or somebody... I'm not sure) did a story on one guy's Viking/Nordic themed shoot in a forest a while back, and he did exactly this: ambient (artifical torches) and flash, and it took quite a lot of work.

I do remember specifically that he needed some Roscoe gels to get his flash colour in line with light from the torches... amongst other things.

And talking about flash, philipcs remember to turn off your Electronic Front Curtain Shutter (EFCS) or whatever electronic shutter options you have if you wanna do HSS with the i40 (which the MK320 did not have). Otherwise you'll get those dreaded black bars of doom.

At least that's how the HSS works on the A6000.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 2 2015, 03:44 AM
gin&tonic
post Nov 1 2015, 10:05 PM

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Sony Surprise Announcement Coming! E-mount Related?

http://cameratimes.org/sony-surprise-annou...-mount-related/


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post Nov 2 2015, 09:22 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 1 2015, 10:27 PM)
True. Like I said, sometimes.

In the case of the candlelight thing, as mentioned by IwanAGP, it will be a bit harder to add additional light sources without at least *altering* the mood/ambience somewhat. Especially when you consider that flash and candlelight has different colour temps.

It can be done, but it will be slightly harder... especially if you wanna capture both the ambience and the subject. Fstoppers (or Petapixel or somebody... I'm not sure) did a story on one guy's Viking/Nordic themed shoot in a forest a while back, and he did exactly this: ambient (artifical torches) and flash, and it took quite a lot of work.

I do remember specifically that he needed some Roscoe gels to get his flash colour in line with light from the torches... amongst other things.

And talking about flash, philipcs remember to turn off your Electronic Front Curtain Shutter (EFCS) or whatever electronic shutter options you have if you wanna do HSS with the i40 (which the MK320 did not have). Otherwise you'll get those dreaded black bars of doom.

At least that's how the HSS works on the A6000.
*
what is Electronic Front Curtain Shutter (EFCS)?? is it appear in A6000 also???
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post Nov 2 2015, 09:37 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 1 2015, 09:27 PM)
True. Like I said, sometimes.

In the case of the candlelight thing, as mentioned by IwanAGP, it will be a bit harder to add additional light sources without at least *altering* the mood/ambience somewhat. Especially when you consider that flash and candlelight has different colour temps.

It can be done, but it will be slightly harder... especially if you wanna capture both the ambience and the subject. Fstoppers (or Petapixel or somebody... I'm not sure) did a story on one guy's Viking/Nordic themed shoot in a forest a while back, and he did exactly this: ambient (artifical torches) and flash, and it took quite a lot of work.

I do remember specifically that he needed some Roscoe gels to get his flash colour in line with light from the torches... amongst other things.

And talking about flash, philipcs remember to turn off your Electronic Front Curtain Shutter (EFCS) or whatever electronic shutter options you have if you wanna do HSS with the i40 (which the MK320 did not have). Otherwise you'll get those dreaded black bars of doom.

At least that's how the HSS works on the A6000.
*
Thanks for reminder, i haven't come across this EFCS, googling for more info now biggrin.gif

Update from DPreview - http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3499013

QUOTE
EFCS eliminates shutter shock, and also reduces the lag from pushing the shutter to capturing the image down to effectively zero.
Turning EFS on, means that the mechanical first curtain is 'parked'.

Benefits: less noise, less vibration, longer lasting camera.

Drawbacks: high shutter speeds will be exposed unevenly.

To understand the latter: EFS turns the entire sensor on at once. A 1/2000th or so shutter is essentially a small 'slit' of the first and second curtain hunting each other, thereby getting very precise high shutter speeds.

At 1/160th (flash sync - I assume the time required by each curtain to cover full sensor) you already begin to get uneven lighting, and it progresses from there (one side of the curtain is exposed for 1/160th, the other side is for the shutter speed - e.g. 1/1000th).

Depending on the scene, it may or may not be noticable. If you shoot high shutter speeds often, you should turn the EFS off - if not, keeping it always on is probably the better way to go.


I think i will turn on unless i encounter problem in HSS

This post has been edited by philipcs: Nov 2 2015, 09:48 AM
philipcs
post Nov 2 2015, 09:40 AM

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QUOTE(gin&tonic @ Nov 1 2015, 10:05 PM)
Sony Surprise Announcement Coming! E-mount Related?

http://cameratimes.org/sony-surprise-annou...-mount-related/
*
Store more Bullets! NOW! drool.gif
Eiraku
post Nov 2 2015, 10:06 AM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 2 2015, 09:37 AM)
Thanks for reminder, i haven't come across this EFCS, googling for more info now biggrin.gif
*
Not sure what it's called on the A7 series menu. Especially the A7s which has a fully electronic shutter (silent shutter). For the A6000, it only has an electronic front curtain, hence EFCS.

NLCH880215 EFCS is kinda sorta a hybrid between a mechanical shutter (normal cameras), and a rolling electronic shutter (smartphone cameras). That's probably the easiest way to explain it without going further into technicalities.

Why use EFCS? Apparently it gives you faster shutter response and better sharpness (under certain conditions).

Why not use EFCS? Apparently it doesn't really work that well in under a few certain conditions:

a) High speed motion (possible artifacts like "rolling shutter" - Google "rolling shutter weirdness").

b) High shutter speeds

c) Large aperture lenses (as cautioned by the old Nex-5 manual).

d) HSS (the black bars of doom).

And yeah, the A6000 (and most other "modern" Nex/A-series cameras) has it.
Eiraku
post Nov 2 2015, 10:24 AM

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BTW, here's today's spamshot, courtesy of the 3.5/30M:

user posted imageTiny Morning Flower by Eirakkun, on Flickr

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 2 2015, 10:37 AM
domo_kun
post Nov 2 2015, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 1 2015, 06:57 PM)
Post Processing. Most of the time it means Lightroom... But you can also PP in Capture One... or PhotoNinja... or even Photoshop - but without the editing, just adjustments.

And nice to hear you've gotten your Samyang 2/12. How is it? Wide enough for you? Be mindful though that the hard infinity stop isn't actually infinity, it's usually at that infinity marker before the hard stop (or if you get a slightly misalibrated lens, somewhere before or after it).

The DOF is huge for this lens if you shoot at f/8, but if you focus beyond infinity everything will just blur out, so be careful.

BTW, the PlayMemories WIFI remote control app can (finally) do Bulb-mode with the latest update - which actually makes it useful as a remote now.
*
Aha... Any other pointers for a noob? sweat.gif
Eiraku
post Nov 2 2015, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 2 2015, 10:49 AM)
Aha... Any other pointers for a noob?  sweat.gif
*
Lol I Noob asso wat. Noob with too much time on his hands lol.

Anyway, the easy way is set the lens at f/8-11, put to the infinity marker (test it first if it's sharp as it should be - otherwise adjust) and snap away lol. Being an 12mm lens (on an APSC sensor) DOF should be more than enough.

Otherwise, Google "hyperfocal distance" for some mathematical fun time to set your lens to maximum sharpness coverage - although even this method has its fair share of detractors.

And turn on Focus Peaking and set it to red, medium. That should help confirm what's in focus. Turn it off it it gets distracting though.

Oh... and get a tripod. Preferably something stable like the Sirui T-0004x or T-0005x. Or the Manfrotto Compact Advanced Ballhead if you don't have much budget.

As for composition, while Abam Rockwell is largely ridiculous when doling advice, his observations about using UWAs are quite useful to start with: http://goo.gl/Z9aOb8

Just take his advice with a grain of salt. They can be useful starting tips, but they are not the end-all rules. Especially when he can be so off-the-bat (even somewhat nuts) when it comes to other stuff lol.

*Seriously, I'm not sure if just mentioning his name is not going to get the hate train running over here lol.*

Also, look back at Abam kucau's pointers. Composition above all else when it comes to landscapes (if that's your thing) - though you do need the technical skills and suitable gear in place first before you can get there.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 2 2015, 12:34 PM
domo_kun
post Nov 2 2015, 07:43 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 2 2015, 11:28 AM)
Lol I Noob asso wat. Noob with too much time on his hands lol.
Anyway, the easy way is set the lens at f/8-11, put to the infinity marker (test it first if it's sharp as it should be - otherwise adjust) and snap away lol. Being an 12mm lens (on an APSC sensor) DOF should be more than enough.
Otherwise, Google "hyperfocal distance" for some mathematical fun time to set your lens to maximum sharpness coverage - although even this method has its fair share of detractors.
And turn on Focus Peaking and set it to red, medium. That should help confirm what's in focus. Turn it off it it gets distracting though.
Oh... and get a tripod. Preferably something stable like the Sirui T-0004x or T-0005x. Or the Manfrotto Compact Advanced Ballhead if you don't have much budget.
As for composition, while Abam Rockwell is largely ridiculous when doling advice, his observations about using UWAs are quite useful to start with: http://goo.gl/Z9aOb8
Just take his advice with a grain of salt. They can be useful starting tips, but they are not the end-all rules. Especially when he can be so off-the-bat (even somewhat nuts) when it comes to other stuff lol.
*Seriously, I'm not sure if just mentioning his name is not going to get the hate train running over here lol.*
Also, look back at Abam kucau's pointers. Composition above all else when it comes to landscapes (if that's your thing) - though you do need the technical skills and suitable gear in place first before you can get there.
*
I did Google for "hyper focal distance", and I was lost completely! I think "Focus Peaking" is very useful, been trying that out even before Sammy. I've got the Manfrotto Compact Advanced, smallest and possibly lightest available on a cheap budget. But question now is how to carry this around... LOL. Any tips?
zstan
post Nov 2 2015, 08:25 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 1 2015, 07:51 PM)
Using a flash doesn't necessarily mean killing the ambient.

user posted image

user posted image
*
candle light leh..
IwanAGP
post Nov 2 2015, 08:39 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 2 2015, 10:24 AM)
BTW, here's today's spamshot, courtesy of the 3.5/30M:

user posted imageTiny Morning Flower by Eirakkun, on Flickr
*
How's the 30F35M as portrait lens? hmm.gif
ganick5461
post Nov 2 2015, 08:41 PM

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I'm travelling to HK next week, considering to buying a lens before I go?
What'? the best prime lens for travel? 35 or the 50? Currently have a FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6
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post Nov 2 2015, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(zstan @ Nov 2 2015, 08:25 PM)
candle light leh..
*
Gimme an example photo and I'll replicate it for you.
Eiraku
post Nov 2 2015, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 2 2015, 08:39 PM)
How's the 30F35M as portrait lens?  hmm.gif
*
Haven't tried, but it should be interesting. The 30M is plenty sharp in the center by f/4 - and the colour rendering is marvelous. There's a bit more distortion vs the SEL50 though, and the shorter FL of the 30M doesn't compress/flatten as much as the 50 (which might not be preferable for portraits).

But I digress, I haven't tried it lol.

QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 2 2015, 08:41 PM)
I'm travelling to HK next week, considering to buying a lens before I go?
What'? the best prime lens for travel? 35 or the 50? Currently have a FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6
*
First things first, FF or APSC? Looking at the FE2870 kit you already have I'll just assume you have an FF cam.

With that, I'd say the FE55 because it's faster and it's arguably the more flexible FL. The kit already covers the long and wide end, you just need one fast standard lens.

Preferably, if you have the resources (and don't mind another zoom) get the FE1635Z because UWAs are always fun for travel - but otherwise, the 55 should be top on your list.

The FE35 is fun simply because its small and compact, and the wider FL *is* useful - BUT it's not much faster than the kit aperture-wise. You can also consider the faster FE35 Distagon but it's HUGE and EXPENSIVE, not really something I'd consider to be a "travel" lens.

domo_kun No choice, you just gotta get used to carrying it around - especially if you're out specifically to take photos.

There's the "cheat-code" Zipshot though, small(er) and tiny(er)... but that one isn't half as stable as the Manfrotto unless you know how to wing it properly.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 2 2015, 10:02 PM
kyLL
post Nov 2 2015, 09:55 PM

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QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 2 2015, 08:39 PM)
How's the 30F35M as portrait lens?  hmm.gif
*
QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 2 2015, 09:40 PM)
Haven't tried, but it should be interesting. The 30M is plenty sharp in the center by f/4 - and the colour rendering is marvelous. There's a bit more distortion vs the SEL50 though, and the shorter FL of the 30M doesn't compress/flatten as much as the 50 (which might not be preferable for portraits).
*
Yeh i've got the 30M too. didnt like it for portraits. not bokehlicious enough.
SEL50 is nice.. but wide open its not super sharp. ): My Sigma30/2.8 is very sharp.. and i do prefer that distance. i feel a little claustrophobic with the 50.


domo_kun
post Nov 2 2015, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 2 2015, 09:40 PM)
Haven't tried, but it should be interesting. The 30M is plenty sharp in the center by f/4 - and the colour rendering is marvelous. There's a bit more distortion vs the SEL50 though, and the shorter FL of the 30M doesn't compress/flatten as much as the 50 (which might not be preferable for portraits).
First things first, FF or APSC? Looking at the FE2870 kit you already have I'll just assume you have an FF cam.

With that, I'd say the FE55 because it's faster and it's arguably the more flexible FL. The kit already covers the long and wide end, you just need one fast standard lens.

Preferably, if you have the resources (and don't mind another zoom) get the FE1635Z because UWAs are always fun for travel - but otherwise, the 55 should be top on your list.

The FE35 is fun simply because its small and compact, and the wider FL *is* useful - BUT it's not much faster than the kit aperture-wise. You can also consider the faster FE35 Distagon but it's HUGE and EXPENSIVE, not really something I'd consider to be a "travel" lens.

domo_kun No choice, you just gotta get used to carrying it around - especially if you're out specifically to take photos.

There's the "cheat-code" Zipshot though, small(er) and tiny(er)... but that one isn't half as stable as the Manfrotto unless you know how to wing it properly.
*
just noticed... I CAN'T DO BW SHOOTING WITH SAMYANG!!! vmad.gif
ganick5461
post Nov 2 2015, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 2 2015, 09:40 PM)
Haven't tried, but it should be interesting. The 30M is plenty sharp in the center by f/4 - and the colour rendering is marvelous. There's a bit more distortion vs the SEL50 though, and the shorter FL of the 30M doesn't compress/flatten as much as the 50 (which might not be preferable for portraits).

But I digress, I haven't tried it lol.
First things first, FF or APSC? Looking at the FE2870 kit you already have I'll just assume you have an FF cam.

With that, I'd say the FE55 because it's faster and it's arguably the more flexible FL. The kit already covers the long and wide end, you just need one fast standard lens.

Preferably, if you have the resources (and don't mind another zoom) get the FE1635Z because UWAs are always fun for travel - but otherwise, the 55 should be top on your list.

The FE35 is fun simply because its small and compact, and the wider FL *is* useful - BUT it's not much faster than the kit aperture-wise. You can also consider the faster FE35 Distagon but it's HUGE and EXPENSIVE, not really something I'd consider to be a "travel" lens.

domo_kun No choice, you just gotta get used to carrying it around - especially if you're out specifically to take photos.

There's the "cheat-code" Zipshot though, small(er) and tiny(er)... but that one isn't half as stable as the Manfrotto unless you know how to wing it properly.
*
I'm using FF body, don't really have enough budget for either FE1635 or the FE35 f1.4 though.
35mm is much more versatile length I think, and very compact. Erm...let me think.

This post has been edited by ganick5461: Nov 2 2015, 10:07 PM
hanafinoor
post Nov 2 2015, 10:40 PM

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QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 2 2015, 09:41 PM)
I'm travelling to HK next week, considering to buying a lens before I go?
What'? the best prime lens for travel? 35 or the 50? Currently have a FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6
*
30mm la

This post has been edited by hanafinoor: Nov 2 2015, 10:41 PM
ganick5461
post Nov 3 2015, 08:23 AM

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QUOTE(hanafinoor @ Nov 2 2015, 10:40 PM)
30mm la
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You mean 35? Sony's 30mm is for crop if I'm not mistaken.
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post Nov 3 2015, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 2 2015, 10:00 PM)
I'm using FF body, don't really have enough budget for either FE1635 or the FE35 f1.4 though.
35mm is much more versatile length I think, and very compact. Erm...let me think.
*
It's wider yes, but it's not really much brighter than the kit.

As for versatility, it's arguable because some like the 35 Focal Length while others like the 55. Personally, while I prefer the AOV of the 35mm between the two (I like wider FLs), the 55 is a much more flexible FL IMHO.

I mean, you can do portrait or landscape just the same with the 55 - while in comparison the 35 wouldn't be preferable for portraits (beside environmental/contextual/group portraits) due to the slight perspective distortion (of the FL, not optical distortion of the lens).

But that's just what I think. If you prefer the 35, there's no problem in getting the 35.

Another alternative, why not the FE28? It's fast (f/2), wide, sharp and even takes converters to go even wider.

QUOTE(kyLL @ Nov 2 2015, 09:55 PM)
Yeh i've got the 30M too. didnt like it for portraits. not bokehlicious enough.
SEL50 is nice.. but wide open its not super sharp. ): My Sigma30/2.8 is very sharp.. and i do prefer that distance. i feel a little claustrophobic with the 50.
*
Lol... back in the day exclusively portrait lenses aren't even supposed to be sharp wide open. The slight unsharpness was "flattering" for portraits.

But then, that was back before the age of Photoshop. Nowadays people just shoot sharp and smoothen the heck out of everything in PS lol.

But yeah, the SEL50 isn't super sharp by any measure... but the bokeh is sublime. I just shoot it slightly stopped down and it sharpens right up though - shooting wide open gives me a razor thin DOF anyway, especially for closer shots.

As for it being a tight FL, the SEL50 is a 75mm equivalent on FF. That's already a short tele, of course ler it's gonna be tight. I use it for tighter shots that I can't get with my usual SEL20 (which sits on my 2nd body almost 100% of the time for snapshots).

That said, the Siggy 30 is a fine lens too, though I kinda prefer Sony colour rendering compared to Sigma's.

QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 2 2015, 09:57 PM)
just noticed... I CAN'T DO BW SHOOTING WITH SAMYANG!!!  vmad.gif
*
What do you mean you can't shoot BW with the Samyang? I just dug out my camera and tested this - I could shoot BW no problem with the 12mm.

I used the BW Creative Style though, which is buried somewhere in the menus.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 3 2015, 09:57 AM
IazHes
post Nov 3 2015, 10:01 AM

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Just a quick question,
SEL50F18, the lens turn ring is there any function in aperture first mode or others?
Eiraku
post Nov 3 2015, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(IazHes @ Nov 3 2015, 10:01 AM)
Just a quick question,
SEL50F18, the lens turn ring is there any function in aperture first mode or others?
*
Err no.... unless you enable DMF (or MF) under AF. That ring is for focusing and focusing only.

AFAIK you can't assign it to do anything else unfortunately, as with every other E-mount lens that lacks an actual aperture ring (except the Distagon 35, which has one).

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 3 2015, 10:52 AM
akira87
post Nov 3 2015, 11:02 AM

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Hi, i own nex5n with kitlens, today i found out that my lens have 2 spot of fungus. Is there any method to stop and remove the fungus w/o sending it for service? If no, where is recommended service centre that provide the service? And how much roughly the price will be? Im from KL btw... Thx
hensky
post Nov 3 2015, 11:05 AM

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QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 2 2015, 08:41 PM)
I'm travelling to HK next week, considering to buying a lens before I go?
What'? the best prime lens for travel? 35 or the 50? Currently have a FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6
*
sell FE 28-70mm and get FE 28mm F2 and FE 55 F1.8 rclxms.gif
you also can buy ultra wide converter for FE 28mm to achieve 21mm F2.8
domo_kun
post Nov 3 2015, 11:09 AM

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Yeah, hehe, my bad. I usually uses the one in Picture Effect, instead of Creative Style. rolleyes.gif

I remember reading about setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus. How that works, really?
Eiraku
post Nov 3 2015, 12:03 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 3 2015, 11:09 AM)
Yeah, hehe, my bad. I usually uses the one in Picture Effect, instead of Creative Style.  rolleyes.gif

I remember reading about setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus. How that works, really?
*
Err... that's Zone Focusing and DOF? The markings on the lens generally give you an idea of what distance it focuses at, and aperture determines DOF - but I usually don't bother and just do f/8-11 and infinity unless I need to get close; which is just a matter of peaking and praying pol.

How it works... err... Not really sure how to explain, but I know it has something to do with the circle of confusion. Or something lol.

akira87 Normally for fungus servicing I send my lenses over to Ving Son Service over at Klang Lama (contact him at zero-one-six-6322968) or J-One over at Amcorp PJ.

Prices not so sure cause it's been a while since I last sent in any fungified lenses - but expect something around RM80-100 depending on how bad the fungi outbreak is.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 3 2015, 12:15 PM
ganick5461
post Nov 3 2015, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 3 2015, 09:47 AM)
It's wider yes, but it's not really much brighter than the kit. 

As for versatility, it's arguable because some like the 35 Focal Length while others like the 55. Personally, while I prefer the AOV of the 35mm between the two (I like wider FLs), the 55 is a much more flexible FL IMHO.

I mean, you can do portrait or landscape just the same with the 55 - while in comparison the 35 wouldn't be preferable for portraits (beside environmental/contextual/group portraits) due to the slight perspective distortion (of the FL, not optical distortion of the lens).

But that's just what I think. If you prefer the 35, there's no problem in getting the 35.

Another alternative, why not the FE28? It's fast (f/2), wide, sharp and even takes converters to go even wider.
Lol... back in the day exclusively portrait lenses aren't even supposed to be sharp wide open. The slight unsharpness was "flattering" for portraits.

But then, that was back before the age of Photoshop. Nowadays people just shoot sharp and smoothen the heck out of everything in PS lol.

But yeah, the SEL50 isn't super sharp by any measure... but the bokeh is sublime. I just shoot it slightly stopped down and it sharpens right up though - shooting wide open gives me a razor thin DOF anyway, especially for closer shots.

As for it being a tight FL, the SEL50 is a 75mm equivalent on FF. That's already a short tele, of course ler it's gonna be tight. I use it for tighter shots that I can't get with my usual SEL20 (which sits on my 2nd body almost 100% of the time for snapshots).

That said, the Siggy 30 is a fine lens too, though I kinda prefer Sony colour rendering compared to Sigma's.
What do you mean you can't shoot BW with the Samyang? I just dug out my camera and tested this - I could shoot BW no problem with the 12mm.

I used the BW Creative Style though, which is buried somewhere in the menus.
*
Thanks for your advise, I just went to YL and got the 55mm. The 28mm will be on my next lens list, quite cheap though.

This post has been edited by ganick5461: Nov 3 2015, 12:16 PM
ganick5461
post Nov 3 2015, 01:05 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 3 2015, 11:05 AM)
sell FE 28-70mm and get FE 28mm F2 and FE 55 F1.8  rclxms.gif
you also can buy ultra wide converter for FE 28mm to achieve 21mm F2.8
*
Can't sell it la, the kit zoom quite handy sometimes.
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post Nov 3 2015, 01:39 PM

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QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 3 2015, 01:05 PM)
Can't sell it la, the kit zoom quite handy sometimes.
*
U can buy FE 16-35 F4 or Voigtlander 15mm F4.5 III to pair with it. best combo for travel, covers ultra wide to short tele. tongue.gif


philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 01:56 PM

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QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 3 2015, 12:06 PM)
Thanks for your advise, I just went to YL and got the 55mm. The 28mm will be on my next lens list, quite cheap though.
*
28mm is a must buy lens, not so expensive and good in quality.
I also only got 55 and 28 as AF lens, the rest are all manual biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by philipcs: Nov 3 2015, 01:57 PM
philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 01:58 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 3 2015, 01:39 PM)
U can buy FE 16-35 F4 or Voigtlander 15mm F4.5 III  to pair with it. best combo for travel, covers ultra wide to short tele.  tongue.gif
*
Yup, i bought the Voigtlander 15mm F4.5 III because of the small size and easy to carry around. However, this lens is not that light in weight biggrin.gif
Eiraku
post Nov 3 2015, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 3 2015, 01:58 PM)
Yup, i bought the Voigtlander 15mm F4.5 III because of the small size and easy to carry around. However, this lens is not that light in weight  biggrin.gif
*
It's not light? How is the older V2 then?

Thinking of getting the smaller V2 to replace the SEL20 for snapshot duty on my 5T. If it's heavy then maybe not.

Anyway, spam of the day:

user posted imageDead Red Desolate by Eirakkun, on Flickr
hensky
post Nov 3 2015, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 3 2015, 02:15 PM)
It's not light? How is the older V2 then?

Thinking of getting the smaller V2 to replace the SEL20 for snapshot duty on my 5T. If it's heavy then maybe not.

Anyway, spam of the day:

user posted imageDead Red Desolate by Eirakkun, on Flickr
*
I have v2 on my a7s last time and it is light and small. very easy to use. just point and shoot no need to focus thumbup.gif

GOOD FLARE RESIST
user posted image

super sharp star from light.
user posted image
philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 03:22 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 3 2015, 02:15 PM)
It's not light? How is the older V2 then?

Thinking of getting the smaller V2 to replace the SEL20 for snapshot duty on my 5T. If it's heavy then maybe not.

Anyway, spam of the day:

user posted imageDead Red Desolate by Eirakkun, on Flickr
*
Due to the III is bigger and full metal built quality, it difinitely heavier than II. But is not like very heavy lah. Later I weight. biggrin.gif
philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 3 2015, 02:25 PM)
I have v2 on my a7s last time and it is light and small. very easy to use. just point and shoot no need to focus  thumbup.gif

GOOD FLARE RESIST
user posted image

super sharp star from light.
user posted image
*
Yes. Auto focus is not so crucial in such a wide angle lens.
No matter how you shoot still sharp one. Therefore I am not worry about manual focus in CV15
hensky
post Nov 3 2015, 03:28 PM

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SPAM SPAM taken using a7 haha
user posted image

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 3 2015, 03:30 PM
lwliam
post Nov 3 2015, 03:50 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 3 2015, 11:09 AM)
Yeah, hehe, my bad. I usually uses the one in Picture Effect, instead of Creative Style.  rolleyes.gif

I remember reading about setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus. How that works, really?
*
Are you referring to hyperfocal?
dctravels
post Nov 3 2015, 04:59 PM

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Hi, total newbie here.

I have always envied the beautiful photographs taken by DSLRs. However, the sight of tourists lugging around heavy looking cameras and lenses put me off until I read up on mirrorless cameras.

Six weeks ago I bought a Sony A6000 (with kit lens) and picked up a SEL5518Z which was on sale. I was blown away by the results.

user posted image
Auto mode indoor low-light conditions

user posted image
Manual mode | ƒ/22.0 55.0 mm 2 100

Mating the SEL5518Z to the Sony A6000 results in a comical (for me) tele/portrait lens. My crash course in digital photography began as I read all that I could online. I was itching to know how the SEL5518Z will perform on a full frame. I knew my days on the APS-C sensor were numbered.

user posted image
A7RM2 + SEL1635Z

I've had the Sony ILCE-7RM2 for a week now, bought together with the SEL1635Z (on sale as well). After working for over 20 years I am fortunate to have the budget to spend on gear. From my reading online I took the advice of buying the best gear one can afford and just go out and shoot pictures, which in my instance would be picture of my children, landscape and architectural photos when travelling.

user posted image
Auto Mode | ƒ/4.0 19.0 mm 1/60 3200

user posted image
Auto Mode | ƒ/14.0 16.0 mm 1/80 100

Looking forward to learning a lot from all of your here.

Cheers!
hensky
post Nov 3 2015, 06:03 PM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 3 2015, 04:59 PM)
Hi, total newbie here.
I have always envied the beautiful photographs taken by DSLRs. However, the sight of tourists lugging around heavy looking cameras and lenses put me off until I read up on mirrorless cameras.
Six weeks ago I bought a Sony A6000 (with kit lens) and picked up a SEL5518Z which was on sale. I was blown away by the results.
user posted image
Auto mode indoor low-light conditions
user posted image
Manual mode | ƒ/22.0 55.0 mm 2 100
Mating the SEL5518Z to the Sony A6000 results in a comical (for me) tele/portrait lens. My crash course in digital photography began as I read all that I could online. I was itching to know how the SEL5518Z will perform on a full frame. I knew my days on the APS-C sensor were numbered.
user posted image
A7RM2 + SEL1635Z
I've had the Sony ILCE-7RM2 for a week now, bought together with the SEL1635Z (on sale as well). After working for over 20 years I am fortunate to have the budget to spend on gear. From my reading online I took the advice of buying the best gear one can afford and just go out and shoot pictures, which in my instance would be picture of my children, landscape and architectural photos when travelling.
user posted image
Auto Mode | ƒ/4.0 19.0 mm 1/60 3200
user posted image
Auto Mode | ƒ/14.0 16.0 mm 1/80 100
Looking forward to learning a lot from all of your here.
Cheers!
*
nice equipment u got there drool.gif

btw where do you buy the FE 16-35? wanna to buy one too.
domo_kun
post Nov 3 2015, 07:15 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 3 2015, 12:03 PM)
Err... that's Zone Focusing and DOF? The markings on the lens generally give you an idea of what distance it focuses at, and aperture determines DOF - but I usually don't bother and just do f/8-11 and infinity unless I need to get close; which is just a matter of peaking and praying pol.
How it works... err... Not really sure how to explain, but I know it has something to do with the circle of confusion. Or something lol.
*
QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 3 2015, 03:50 PM)
Are you referring to hyperfocal?
*
I'm not sure what's the correct term to it, but I think it's Zone Focusing? Or is it Hyper Focal? Or are they the same concept but different terms? LOL! One for sure, it's confusing like hell, especially the calculation part. Anyway. Why set to to f/8-11? It tend to delay the shot about 1/2 a second, and if I move during that time, it'll be blurred. I usually set to f2.8-4 or with the kit lens, it's always at the largest possible. Oh, and since I'm on this lens, I can only be using 67mm filters, right?
dctravels
post Nov 3 2015, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 3 2015, 06:03 PM)
btw where do you buy the FE 16-35? wanna to buy one too.
*
Got it from a local IT store (PC Image), they were having a Merdeka promo or something, considerable discount from retail price.

This post has been edited by dctravels: Nov 3 2015, 07:48 PM
ganick5461
post Nov 3 2015, 08:54 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 3 2015, 01:39 PM)
U can buy FE 16-35 F4 or Voigtlander 15mm F4.5 III  to pair with it. best combo for travel, covers ultra wide to short tele.  tongue.gif
*
The Voigtlander is M-mount right? As I know E-mount version haven't released yet.
ganick5461
post Nov 3 2015, 08:55 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 3 2015, 01:56 PM)
28mm is a must buy lens, not so expensive and good in quality.
I also only got 55 and 28 as AF lens, the rest are all manual biggrin.gif
*
LOL
Not even a AF zoom?
philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 3 2015, 08:55 PM)
LOL
Not even a AF zoom?
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I dont have any zoom lens biggrin.gif
philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 3 2015, 08:54 PM)
The Voigtlander is M-mount right? As I know E-mount version haven't released yet.
*
M Mount, pair with CV VM-E Close Focusing Adapter! smile.gif
philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 09:01 PM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 3 2015, 07:48 PM)
Got it from a local IT store (PC Image), they were having a Merdeka promo or something, considerable discount from retail price.
*
In KL?
philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 09:01 PM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 3 2015, 04:59 PM)
Hi, total newbie here.
I have always envied the beautiful photographs taken by DSLRs. However, the sight of tourists lugging around heavy looking cameras and lenses put me off until I read up on mirrorless cameras.
Six weeks ago I bought a Sony A6000 (with kit lens) and picked up a SEL5518Z which was on sale. I was blown away by the results.
user posted image
Auto mode indoor low-light conditions
user posted image
Manual mode | ƒ/22.0 55.0 mm 2 100
Mating the SEL5518Z to the Sony A6000 results in a comical (for me) tele/portrait lens. My crash course in digital photography began as I read all that I could online. I was itching to know how the SEL5518Z will perform on a full frame. I knew my days on the APS-C sensor were numbered.
user posted image
A7RM2 + SEL1635Z
I've had the Sony ILCE-7RM2 for a week now, bought together with the SEL1635Z (on sale as well). After working for over 20 years I am fortunate to have the budget to spend on gear. From my reading online I took the advice of buying the best gear one can afford and just go out and shoot pictures, which in my instance would be picture of my children, landscape and architectural photos when travelling.
user posted image
Auto Mode | ƒ/4.0 19.0 mm 1/60 3200
user posted image
Auto Mode | ƒ/14.0 16.0 mm 1/80 100
Looking forward to learning a lot from all of your here.
Cheers!
*
Love the 1st photo! Lovely Girl smile.gif
hensky
post Nov 3 2015, 09:08 PM

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QUOTE(ganick5461 @ Nov 3 2015, 08:54 PM)
The Voigtlander is M-mount right? As I know E-mount version haven't released yet.
*
better get the M-mount version. It can be used with other mount through different adapter.
with e-mount close focusing adapter, u can get VERYYYYYYY close focusing distance.

the pro of e-mount version is having EXIF data only. I think the e-mount version will not have close focusing function.

hensky
post Nov 3 2015, 09:10 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 3 2015, 09:01 PM)
In KL?
*
Google search the store. seems only based in east malaysia - sarawak, sabah

btw, i try to shoot with canon 24-70 F4.

here the sample, hazy dayyy sweat.gif
user posted imageDSC06851 by ckinhoe, on Flickr

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 3 2015, 09:23 PM
philipcs
post Nov 3 2015, 09:24 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 3 2015, 09:08 PM)
better get the M-mount version. It can be used with other mount through different adapter.
with e-mount close focusing adapter, u can get VERYYYYYYY close focusing distance.

the pro of e-mount version is having EXIF data only. I think the e-mount version will not have close focusing function.
*
I op for M-Mount too, can use for my GXR too biggrin.gif
lwliam
post Nov 3 2015, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 3 2015, 07:15 PM)
I'm not sure what's the correct term to it, but I think it's Zone Focusing? Or is it Hyper Focal? Or are they the same concept but different terms? LOL! One for sure, it's confusing like hell, especially the calculation part. Anyway. Why set to to f/8-11? It tend to delay the shot about 1/2 a second, and if I move during that time, it'll be blurred. I usually set to f2.8-4 or with the kit lens, it's always at the largest possible. Oh, and since I'm on this lens, I can only be using 67mm filters, right?
*
Send the link you're confused about them at least we'll know what's it about you're referring to.
dctravels
post Nov 3 2015, 09:46 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 3 2015, 09:01 PM)
In KL?
*
QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 3 2015, 09:10 PM)
Google search the store. seems only based in east malaysia - sarawak, sabah
Sorry for not being clear first time. Yes, bought it in Kuching from one of their outlets. SEL5518Z around RM3k and SEL1635Z for around RM4k. Impulse buy with minimal research as I have year-end trips coming up. Then again, it's not like there's plenty of choice at the moment. I did enquire on the Batis 25mm f/2 but no confirmed delivery dates could be given.

QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 3 2015, 09:01 PM)
Love the 1st photo! Lovely Girl smile.gif
*
Thank you!


Silverfire
post Nov 3 2015, 10:21 PM

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Yoga shoot tongue.gif

user posted imageDSC02040-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
Eiraku
post Nov 3 2015, 11:28 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 3 2015, 07:15 PM)
I'm not sure what's the correct term to it, but I think it's Zone Focusing? Or is it Hyper Focal? Or are they the same concept but different terms? LOL! One for sure, it's confusing like hell, especially the calculation part. Anyway. Why set to to f/8-11? It tend to delay the shot about 1/2 a second, and if I move during that time, it'll be blurred. I usually set to f2.8-4 or with the kit lens, it's always at the largest possible. Oh, and since I'm on this lens, I can only be using 67mm filters, right?
*
Well, like lwliam said, send in the link and we'll figure it out together.

But from what you initially said ("setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus") it pretty much sounds like Zone Focusing.

Okay, let's break things down to the basics. That said, I might be wrong so people feel free to correct me.

Zone Focusing = Prefocusing your lens so that you have a fair idea of what would be in focus, depending of DOF as per your set aperture and focal length.

Example: Set to f/8 and 3m (by the markings on your lens, in this case the Samyang) and you can be roughly sure that things should be in focus within a wide range around 3m (say roughly between 1m-5m... I lazy to calculate).

DOF = That range (1m-5m) where things can be (to you) considered as being "in-focus". This depends on set aperture and focal length (and to a lesser extent, to what level of sharpness you can accept something as being "in-focus").

The 2/12 is an UWA so it has a comparatively larger DOF at all aperture ranges compared to a lens with a longer FL (when focused at similar distances). That's why a 50mm set to f/2 focused to 1 metre gives you a much thinner DOF compared to a 12mm set to f/2 focused at the same distance.

Hyperfocal Distance = This refers to the distance at which you set your lens (according to the markers on the lens) for a set aperture (say f/8) so that your lens will focus on a range between a certain set distance (say 1m) to infinity (the horizon... and beyond!).

In other words, what you achieve by setting your lens to this "Hyperfocal Distance" is a DOF that stretches between a certain distance to infinity - rather than between certain set distances (as with Zone Focusing).

So, in short:

When you are shooting landscapes, you want to maximise DOF, hence stopping down to smaller apertures (like f/8-11) and setting it to the Hyperfocal Distance to get as much things in focus as you can.

*Of course, you could actually stop it down even further to get even more DOF... but beyond f/16 diffraction sets in and that's an entirely different problem altogether*

That said, stopping down to smaller apertures mean that shutter speed will suffer (because you usually want to keep the camera at or around base ISO for best image quality - which usually is ISO200-400) - unless you're shooting in very good light.

So you mount your camera on a tripod so that it would still take sharp pictures at low shutter speeds.

Ze End.

Bear in mind this entire exercise is for shooting things with optimum DOF for landscapes. Shooting other stuff require entirely different approaches altogether lol.

Also, sometimes your might not *want* everything to be in focus lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 3 2015, 11:59 PM
domo_kun
post Nov 4 2015, 09:28 AM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 3 2015, 09:45 PM)
Send the link you're confused about them at least we'll know what's it about you're referring to.
*
QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 3 2015, 11:28 PM)
Well, like lwliam said, send in the link and we'll figure it out together.

But from what you initially said ("setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus") it pretty much sounds like Zone Focusing.

Okay, let's break things down to the basics. That said, I might be wrong so people feel free to correct me.

Zone Focusing = Prefocusing your lens so that you have a fair idea of what would be in focus, depending of DOF as per your set aperture and focal length.

Example: Set to f/8 and 3m (by the markings on your lens, in this case the Samyang) and you can be roughly sure that things should be in focus within a wide range around 3m (say roughly between 1m-5m... I lazy to calculate).

DOF = That range (1m-5m) where things can be (to you) considered as being "in-focus". This depends on set aperture and focal length (and to a lesser extent, to what level of sharpness you can accept something as being "in-focus").

The 2/12 is an UWA so it has a comparatively larger DOF at all aperture ranges compared to a lens with a longer FL (when focused at similar distances). That's why a 50mm set to f/2 focused to 1 metre gives you a much thinner DOF compared to a 12mm set to f/2 focused at the same distance.

Hyperfocal Distance = This refers to the distance at which you set your lens (according to the markers on the lens) for a set  aperture (say f/8) so that your lens will focus on a range between a certain set distance (say 1m) to infinity (the horizon... and beyond!).

In other words, what you achieve by setting your lens to this "Hyperfocal Distance" is a DOF that stretches between a certain distance to infinity - rather than between certain set distances (as with Zone Focusing).

So, in short:

When you are shooting landscapes, you want to maximise DOF, hence stopping down to smaller apertures (like f/8-11) and setting it to the Hyperfocal Distance to get as much things in focus as you can.

*Of course, you could actually stop it down even further to get even more DOF... but beyond f/16 diffraction sets in and that's an entirely different problem altogether*

That said, stopping down to smaller apertures mean that shutter speed will suffer (because you usually want to keep the camera at or around base ISO for best image quality - which usually is ISO200-400) - unless you're shooting in very good light.

So you mount your camera on a tripod so that it would still take sharp pictures at low shutter speeds.

Ze End.

Bear in mind this entire exercise is for shooting things with optimum DOF for landscapes. Shooting other stuff require entirely different approaches altogether lol.

Also, sometimes your might not *want* everything to be in focus lol.
*
WAH. I cannot believe I woke up to this... Haha. laugh.gif Why f/8? 3 meter or 3 feet? Because as on the lens, max is 3 feet, which is about 1 meter. And the Infinity mark, I believe it means anything beyond 1 meter or 3 feet, yeah?
IazHes
post Nov 4 2015, 10:59 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 3 2015, 11:28 PM)
Well, like lwliam said, send in the link and we'll figure it out together.

But from what you initially said ("setting a certain distance on the MF so that whenever I shoot, subjects covered in the distance will be focus whereas the rest would be out of focus") it pretty much sounds like Zone Focusing.

Okay, let's break things down to the basics. That said, I might be wrong so people feel free to correct me.

Zone Focusing = Prefocusing your lens so that you have a fair idea of what would be in focus, depending of DOF as per your set aperture and focal length.

Example: Set to f/8 and 3m (by the markings on your lens, in this case the Samyang) and you can be roughly sure that things should be in focus within a wide range around 3m (say roughly between 1m-5m... I lazy to calculate).

DOF = That range (1m-5m) where things can be (to you) considered as being "in-focus". This depends on set aperture and focal length (and to a lesser extent, to what level of sharpness you can accept something as being "in-focus").

The 2/12 is an UWA so it has a comparatively larger DOF at all aperture ranges compared to a lens with a longer FL (when focused at similar distances). That's why a 50mm set to f/2 focused to 1 metre gives you a much thinner DOF compared to a 12mm set to f/2 focused at the same distance.

Hyperfocal Distance = This refers to the distance at which you set your lens (according to the markers on the lens) for a set  aperture (say f/8) so that your lens will focus on a range between a certain set distance (say 1m) to infinity (the horizon... and beyond!).

In other words, what you achieve by setting your lens to this "Hyperfocal Distance" is a DOF that stretches between a certain distance to infinity - rather than between certain set distances (as with Zone Focusing).

So, in short:

When you are shooting landscapes, you want to maximise DOF, hence stopping down to smaller apertures (like f/8-11) and setting it to the Hyperfocal Distance to get as much things in focus as you can.

*Of course, you could actually stop it down even further to get even more DOF... but beyond f/16 diffraction sets in and that's an entirely different problem altogether*

That said, stopping down to smaller apertures mean that shutter speed will suffer (because you usually want to keep the camera at or around base ISO for best image quality - which usually is ISO200-400) - unless you're shooting in very good light.

So you mount your camera on a tripod so that it would still take sharp pictures at low shutter speeds.

Ze End.

Bear in mind this entire exercise is for shooting things with optimum DOF for landscapes. Shooting other stuff require entirely different approaches altogether lol.

Also, sometimes your might not *want* everything to be in focus lol.
*
Wow, i've learn a lesson here. Thanks for the explaining !!

Wonka
post Nov 4 2015, 11:58 AM

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Hi all,

I am planning to get a FF camera probably by end of this year. Well my budget only can get me either a Sony a7 or a7m2. I have read online that a7m2 is an upgrade version of a7 but is the difference big? I mean in terms of specs and all. Just wanted to know the difference between the 2 models spoken.

Also the lens. Either FE2470f4 or FE55f1.8 cause I am not sure which direction I am going to but more of a casual photog. I have never used FF before so I am not sure if 55mm will be too tight on it. I have tried to find any Sony centre that has an a7 model with 55mm attached to it to test biggrin.gif

Thanks!
philipcs
post Nov 4 2015, 01:42 PM

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QUOTE(Wonka @ Nov 4 2015, 11:58 AM)
Hi all,

I am planning to get a FF camera probably by end of this year. Well my budget only can get me either a Sony a7 or a7m2. I have read online that a7m2 is an upgrade version of a7 but is the difference big? I mean in terms of specs and all. Just wanted to know the difference between the 2 models spoken.

Also the lens. Either FE2470f4 or FE55f1.8 cause I am not sure which direction I am going to but more of a casual photog. I have never used FF before so I am not sure if 55mm will be too tight on it. I have tried to find any Sony centre that has an a7 model with 55mm attached to it to test biggrin.gif

Thanks!
*
If budget permit, go for A7II, just the IS is the major improvement over A7, not yet mention other new features... smile.gif

As start, 55 1.8 and 28 2.8 are good start. personally, i only prefer fixed focal length, zoom, too many thing to consider while using it biggrin.gif
Eiraku
post Nov 4 2015, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 4 2015, 09:28 AM)
WAH. I cannot believe I woke up to this... Haha.  laugh.gif Why f/8? 3 meter or 3 feet? Because as on the lens, max is 3 feet, which is about 1 meter. And the Infinity mark, I believe it means anything beyond 1 meter or 3 feet, yeah?
*
Yeah sorry, feet, not metres. Lens distance scales are (almost) always imperial (damn Yanks) but as with most other Malaysians I tend to fall back to metric.

Why f/8? Err... just because? I was simply giving an example, and by f/8 that slice of things in focus (DOF) would be nice and wide.

So, set to f/8 and 3 feet and the lens should show a things in focus between say 1 feet to about 4 feet (again, pulling these numbers out of my behind as I lazy to go open the DOF calculator). Set to f/8 and 1 feet things should be good and sharp between 0.2 feet to 3 feet (or something like that - again these are just some bogus numbers used to prove a point).

Of course normally if you want even MORE things in focus (bigger DOF), you go up to f/11 or f/16... but beyond f/16 diffraction starts to rear it's ugly head already - not to mention the lens would be very dark and EVEN slower shutter speeds (or higher ISOs) would be needed.

So again... WTH is the difference between Hyperfocal Distance and just setting your lens to Infinity?

When you set it to infinity, optically the lens is set to be sharp from infinity to a certain distance from the camera (depending on aperture and thus DOF). This certain distance is usually quite far, so things nearer to the lens tend to not be as sharp.

When you set the lens to its Hyperfocal Distance, you get things NEARER to you sharper (aka, stuff in the foreground) that would otherwise be not as sharp when you set to infinity - but as a tradeoff the DOF doesn't TRULY reach infinity, it just theoretically "brushes" it - which means that things in the far distance are actually slightly less sharp compared to the Infinity setting.

In normal speak: Use Hyperfocal is when you want everything (including things closer to you) within the scene to be sharp (at the expense of far away detail). Why would you wanna do this? If your main subject is closer to the foreground BUT you're greedy and you want your backgrounds to be (relatively) sharp as well.

Use Infinity is when you want far away things to be sharp (at the expense of things closer to you). Why would you wanna do this? If your main subject is on the background and you don't give a rats behind about your near foreground being sharp or not.

Use Zone Focusing when you're shooting in narrow(er) DOF situations so that you have an idea of what is in focus without having to rely on focus peaking all the time. Why would you wanna do this? For streeting of course... but you need to be able to judge distance accurately for Zone Focusing to be of any use to begin with.

That's why I don't bother to set for Hyperfocal unless I have something close to focus on lol. Just aim at something not too close to me, set a small aperture (f/8-f/16 - again, the smallest apertures to use before diffraction sets in) and set focus to Infinity and VOILA!

BTW - all this mambo jumbo actually only really applies to vintage and full MF lenses that ACTUALLY have a Focus Distance Scale. Heck, the older vintage lenses (and a very small number of the new ones, mostly Voights and Loxias) even come with actual DOF scales that make this entire process even easier (which our Samyangs unfortunately do not have).

See below image for an example of both scales (in both metric and imperial YAY) on a 35mm Loxia (courtesy of the folks at The Phoblographer):

user posted image

Most modern E-mount AF lenses (save for the Batis) doesn't even tell you jack scheisse about focus distance except for that tiny weeny focus meter icon thingy that doesn't really help much.

So while the theory of Hyperfocal Distance and Zone Focusing all still applies to modern E-Mount AF lenses... setting it all up could ("could") actually prove to be a tad harder nowadays.

To be fair though, Zone Focusing was developed to help MF photographers focus faster to deal with the lack of AF back then so maybe it has simply grown irrelevant as of now lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 4 2015, 03:40 PM
Eiraku
post Nov 4 2015, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(Wonka @ Nov 4 2015, 11:58 AM)
Hi all,

I am planning to get a FF camera probably by end of this year. Well my budget only can get me either a Sony a7 or a7m2. I have read online that a7m2 is an upgrade version of a7 but is the difference big? I mean in terms of specs and all. Just wanted to know the difference between the 2 models spoken.

Also the lens. Either FE2470f4 or FE55f1.8 cause I am not sure which direction I am going to but more of a casual photog. I have never used FF before so I am not sure if 55mm will be too tight on it. I have tried to find any Sony centre that has an a7 model with 55mm attached to it to test biggrin.gif

Thanks!
*
Get the A7II lol... IBIS alone is worth the price difference. Also, the shutter button is in the right place (YAY).

Other than those two major differences up top (yeah, shutter button location is actually a big thing lol) it's actually just a simple toss up between a faster camera (A7ii) and a cheaper one (A7).

Also, IINM the Sony Center at the Curve/KLCC usually has both cameras on display. Need to test a particular lens with a particular camera? Just ask the folks there and they would (usually) be happy to oblige.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 4 2015, 03:33 PM
idoblu
post Nov 4 2015, 05:17 PM

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uncompressed raw coming to A7ii - Nov 18th

NEW YORK, NY–(Marketwired – November 03, 2015) – B&H Photo would like to share the announcement of a new firmware update for the Sony Alpha a7 II Mirrorless digital camera, which is scheduled for release on November 18. This update brings the uncompressed raw option — first seen in the a7S II and a7R II — to the a7 II, and provides users with the choice between smaller file sizes via compression or the retention of as much image data as possible for advanced raw file development. Along with this, the camera’s AF system sees a massive boost in performance with the 117-point on-sensor phase detection AF array now supporting adapted lenses, such as those from Sony’s A-mount line. This is similar to what we have already seen with the a7R II, and ensures fast, accurate autofocus performance with a vast variety of glass, making the move to mirrorless much easier. Additionally, Sony is adding more customization options to the camera, allowing movie recording to be assigned to a custom key.

This post has been edited by idoblu: Nov 4 2015, 05:20 PM
domo_kun
post Nov 4 2015, 07:39 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 4 2015, 02:45 PM)
Yeah sorry, feet, not metres. Lens distance scales are (almost) always imperial (damn Yanks) but as with most other Malaysians I tend to fall back to metric.

Why f/8? Err... just because? I was simply giving an example, and by f/8 that slice of things in focus (DOF) would be nice and wide.

So, set to f/8 and 3 feet and the lens should show a things in focus between say 1 feet to about 4 feet (again, pulling these numbers out of my behind as I lazy to go open the DOF calculator). Set to f/8 and 1 feet things should be good and sharp between 0.2 feet to 3 feet (or something like that - again these are just some bogus numbers used to prove a point).

Of course normally if you want even MORE things in focus (bigger DOF), you go up to f/11 or f/16... but beyond f/16 diffraction starts to rear it's ugly head already - not to mention the lens would be very dark and EVEN slower shutter speeds (or higher ISOs) would be needed.

So again... WTH is the difference between Hyperfocal Distance and just setting your lens to Infinity?

When you set it to infinity, optically the lens is set to be sharp from infinity to a certain distance from the camera (depending on aperture and thus DOF). This certain distance is usually quite far, so things nearer to the lens tend to not be as sharp.

When you set the lens to its Hyperfocal Distance, you get things NEARER to you sharper (aka, stuff in the foreground) that would otherwise be not as sharp when you set to infinity - but as a tradeoff the DOF doesn't TRULY reach infinity, it just theoretically "brushes" it - which means that things in the far distance are actually slightly less sharp compared to the Infinity setting.

In normal speak: Use Hyperfocal is when you want everything (including things closer to you) within the scene to be sharp (at the expense of far away detail).  Why would you wanna do this? If your main subject is closer to the foreground BUT you're greedy and you want your backgrounds to be (relatively) sharp as well.

Use Infinity is when you want far away things to be sharp (at the expense of things closer to you). Why would you wanna do this? If your main subject is on the background and you don't give a rats behind about your near foreground being sharp or not.

Use Zone Focusing when you're shooting in narrow(er) DOF situations so that you have an idea of what is in focus without having to rely on focus peaking all the time. Why would you wanna do this? For streeting of course... but you need to be able to judge distance accurately for Zone Focusing to be of any use to begin with.

That's why I don't bother to set for Hyperfocal unless I have something close to focus on lol. Just aim at something not too close to me, set a small aperture (f/8-f/16 - again, the smallest apertures to use before diffraction sets in) and set focus to Infinity and VOILA!

BTW - all this mambo jumbo actually only really applies to vintage and full MF lenses that ACTUALLY have a Focus Distance Scale. Heck, the older vintage lenses (and a very small number of the new ones, mostly Voights and Loxias) even come with actual DOF scales that make this entire process even easier (which our Samyangs unfortunately do not have).

See below image for an example of both scales (in both metric and imperial YAY) on a 35mm Loxia (courtesy of the folks at The Phoblographer):

user posted image

Most modern E-mount AF lenses (save for the Batis) doesn't even tell you jack scheisse about focus distance except for that tiny weeny focus meter icon thingy that doesn't really help much.

So while the theory of Hyperfocal Distance and Zone Focusing all still applies to modern E-Mount AF lenses... setting it all up could ("could") actually prove to be a tad harder nowadays.

To be fair though, Zone Focusing was developed to help MF photographers focus faster to deal with the lack of AF back then so maybe it has simply grown irrelevant as of now lol.
*
notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
hensky
post Nov 4 2015, 07:54 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Nov 4 2015, 05:17 PM)
uncompressed raw coming to A7ii - Nov 18th

NEW YORK, NY–(Marketwired – November 03, 2015) – B&H Photo would like to share the announcement of a new firmware update for the Sony Alpha a7 II Mirrorless digital camera, which is scheduled for release on November 18. This update brings the uncompressed raw option — first seen in the a7S II and a7R II — to the a7 II, and provides users with the choice between smaller file sizes via compression or the retention of as much image data as possible for advanced raw file development. Along with this, the camera’s AF system sees a massive boost in performance with the 117-point on-sensor phase detection AF array now supporting adapted lenses, such as those from Sony’s A-mount line. This is similar to what we have already seen with the a7R II, and ensures fast, accurate autofocus performance with a vast variety of glass, making the move to mirrorless much easier. Additionally, Sony is adding more customization options to the camera, allowing movie recording to be assigned to a custom key.
*
Nice rclxms.gif one more reason to buy a7ii instead of a7
philipcs
post Nov 4 2015, 09:15 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Nov 4 2015, 05:17 PM)
uncompressed raw coming to A7ii - Nov 18th

NEW YORK, NY–(Marketwired – November 03, 2015) – B&H Photo would like to share the announcement of a new firmware update for the Sony Alpha a7 II Mirrorless digital camera, which is scheduled for release on November 18. This update brings the uncompressed raw option — first seen in the a7S II and a7R II — to the a7 II, and provides users with the choice between smaller file sizes via compression or the retention of as much image data as possible for advanced raw file development. Along with this, the camera’s AF system sees a massive boost in performance with the 117-point on-sensor phase detection AF array now supporting adapted lenses, such as those from Sony’s A-mount line. This is similar to what we have already seen with the a7R II, and ensures fast, accurate autofocus performance with a vast variety of glass, making the move to mirrorless much easier. Additionally, Sony is adding more customization options to the camera, allowing movie recording to be assigned to a custom key.
*
Yeah! Cant wait! biggrin.gif icon_rolleyes.gif
dctravels
post Nov 5 2015, 10:24 AM

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Dear sifus,

Can I get some advice on a good quality tripod for my A7RII? It has to be compact and light, ideal for travelling. Carbon fibre? Aluminum?

Thanks in advance!
Eiraku
post Nov 5 2015, 10:35 AM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 5 2015, 10:24 AM)
Dear sifus,

Can I get some advice on a good quality tripod for my A7RII? It has to be compact and light, ideal for travelling. Carbon fibre? Aluminum?

Thanks in advance!
*
Travel = Sirui T-0025x Carbon Fibre tripod. Light and steady as a rock, without even breaking the 1k mark. That said, being light does mean it has fewer features compares to other "fully-featured" tripods. Like the Manfrotto BeFree CF, if you have the dough (they cost a bit more).

Why CF? Light and vibration dampening. Why NOT CF? Expensive ler lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 5 2015, 10:38 AM
dctravels
post Nov 5 2015, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 5 2015, 10:35 AM)
Travel = Sirui T-0025x Carbon Fibre tripod. Light and steady as a rock, without even breaking the 1k mark. That said, being light does mean it has fewer features compares to other "fully-featured" tripods. Like the Manfrotto BeFree CF, if you have the dough (they cost a bit more).

Why CF? Light and vibration dampening. Why NOT CF? Expensive ler lol.
*
Wow, thanks for the prompt reply!

Any suggestions where I can buy the Sirui T-0025x? I'm based in Sarawak but I travel to KL quite frequently (will be going on the 10th Nov).

This post has been edited by dctravels: Nov 5 2015, 10:46 AM
Eiraku
post Nov 5 2015, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 5 2015, 10:43 AM)
Wow, thanks for the prompt reply!

Any suggestions where I can buy the Sirui T-0025x? I'm based in Sarawak but I travel to KL quite frequently (will be going on the 10th Nov).
*
That I'm not so sure. It's been a while since I last went tripod hunting. YL Camera (Pudu and PJ) should have them in stock, but prices are slightly higher than on Shashinki (online).

Also try Lelong for better prices - some of the Lelong sellers do cater for COD.
hensky
post Nov 5 2015, 11:12 AM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 5 2015, 10:24 AM)
Dear sifus,

Can I get some advice on a good quality tripod for my A7RII? It has to be compact and light, ideal for travelling. Carbon fibre? Aluminum?

Thanks in advance!
*
I got one Jusino AX-254C carbon fibre tripod want to let go.
http://shashinki.com/shop/jusino-254c-carb...5kg-p-6516.html

If interested let me know. tongue.gif
Eiraku
post Nov 5 2015, 11:29 AM

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BTW, a basic how-to for Photography if anybody is interested to reinforce their basics, courtesy of the Phoblographer: http://goo.gl/63RBdp
mingyuyu
post Nov 5 2015, 12:13 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 5 2015, 10:35 AM)
Travel = Sirui T-0025x Carbon Fibre tripod. Light and steady as a rock, without even breaking the 1k mark. That said, being light does mean it has fewer features compares to other "fully-featured" tripods. Like the Manfrotto BeFree CF, if you have the dough (they cost a bit more).

Why CF? Light and vibration dampening. Why NOT CF? Expensive ler lol.
*
I thought CF should be a lot stiffer and less flexing compared to aluminium?
Eiraku
post Nov 6 2015, 12:26 AM

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QUOTE(mingyuyu @ Nov 5 2015, 12:13 PM)
I thought CF should be a lot stiffer and less flexing compared to aluminium?
*
Yes it is... at the same time it dampens (absorbs) vibrations better than aluminium. It prolly sounds weird that something stiffer than aluminium can be more vibration absorbant but that's just how CF is.

That said I've yet to have enough dough to get myself my own CF Tripod so I personally don't know how it is in practice lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 6 2015, 12:43 AM
mingyuyu
post Nov 6 2015, 01:12 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 6 2015, 12:26 AM)
Yes it is... at the same time it dampens (absorbs) vibrations better than aluminium. It prolly sounds weird that something stiffer than aluminium can be more vibration absorbant but that's just how CF is.

That said I've yet to have enough dough to get myself my own CF Tripod so I personally don't know how it is in practice lol.
*
hmm... interesting. But the difference would be pretty negligible I think?
Eiraku
post Nov 6 2015, 01:41 AM

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QUOTE(mingyuyu @ Nov 6 2015, 01:12 AM)
hmm... interesting. But the difference would be pretty negligible I think?
*
Not really. Take a hollow auminium rod/tube and tap it hard with an old 50 sen coin. It should vibrate (ring) for a while. Repeat with a hollow carbon fibre rod - it actually absorbs the force of the initial strike.

This experiment I can actually attest for, as I have an aluminium bicycle with CF parts. People use CF for bike handlebars and seatposts (amongst other parts) for this very reason besides just weight saving (and looking cool).

The downside? For the strength both aluminium and CF can prove surprisingly brittle when pushed beyond its tensile limits - they both don't bend (unlike steel and cromoly), they snap apart. And it's actually worse for CF as it snaps with sharp edges and bits.

But the above usually only holds true for both materials used in high stress applications, like bikes. For tripods I don't really think you'll ever stress the legs to that point (unless you plan to jump on your tripods).

Plus tripod legs are actually built with a combination of aluminum/CF and plastic parts, and plastic between the leg sections (the locks) also help absorb vibrations to a limited degree.

With that in mind, in the end the main advantage of CF in tripods is really just the weight reduction. The additional vibration absorbance is really just an extra bonus to begin with.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 6 2015, 09:37 AM
TSalbnok
post Nov 6 2015, 11:48 AM

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Dammit Eiraku I keep reading CF as Compact Flash!

Also, no need for Roscoe gels - as long as it's a Color Temperature Orange flash gel, it will work to balance warm orange light with the white flash. Put the flash gel strip on the flash and it will make the flash orange, then set the camera to tungsten white balance.
kyLL
post Nov 6 2015, 02:07 PM

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no one posting about the new A68?

A68
It’s officially announced! Our soruces were spot on and here is the new Sony A68!

Uncompromising features and performance for demanding amateur photographers

4D FOCUS for fast, accurate tracking autofocus with world’s highest[i] number of 79 AF points
Translucent Mirror Technology™ delivers constant AF tracking at up to 8fps[ii] continuous shooting
24MP[iii] APS-C Exmor™ CMOS image sensor delivers wide ISO 100-25600[iv] sensitivity range
BIONZ X™ image processing engine enables the capture of high-quality images
Precise OLED Tru-Finder™, tiltable LCD monitor, top display panel and custom controls
SteadyShot™ INSIDE works with all 34 A-mount lenses
Full HD video with high bit-rate 50Mbps XAVC S[v] format

http://www.sonyalpharumors.com/announced-s...-with-4d-focus/

This post has been edited by kyLL: Nov 6 2015, 02:08 PM
philipcs
post Nov 6 2015, 02:12 PM

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Anyone using FE 70-200 F4 G OSS?
So far cheapest i found is RM4300 from KLDSLR.com (Sony Malaysia set)
Any shop cheaper than this price?
noname83
post Nov 6 2015, 02:32 PM

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Hey folks, Sony Stores @ KLCC & The Curve are doing promotion on select e-mount lenses as shown below. The discount offered is quite attractive.

user posted image
philipcs
post Nov 6 2015, 02:57 PM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 6 2015, 02:32 PM)
Hey folks, Sony Stores @ KLCC & The Curve are doing promotion on select e-mount lenses as shown below. The discount offered is quite attractive.

user posted image
*
Dont have 70-200 F4 sad.gif
hensky
post Nov 6 2015, 03:29 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 6 2015, 02:57 PM)
Dont have 70-200 F4 sad.gif
*
Dont have 16-35 f4. sad.gif


dctravels
post Nov 6 2015, 03:45 PM

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I got the SEL55F18Z and the SEL1635Z under this promotion by PC IMAGE at Wisma Saberkas, Kuching.

user posted image

I bought the SEL1018 which went well with the A6000 but exchanged it for the SEL1635Z when I upgraded to the A7RII.

user posted image

Just sharing for what it's worth.


NLCH880215
post Nov 6 2015, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 6 2015, 04:45 PM)
I got the SEL55F18Z and the SEL1635Z under this promotion by PC IMAGE at Wisma Saberkas, Kuching.

user posted image

I bought the SEL1018 which went well with the A6000 but exchanged it for the SEL1635Z when I upgraded to the A7RII.

user posted image

Just sharing for what it's worth.
*
got 20mm??
domo_kun
post Nov 6 2015, 04:31 PM

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Some samples that I shot with Sammy this morning in KLCC. Only when I got back that I realize I should have set to Infinity instead of 3 feet, which explains why they look sooooo blur? rclxub.gif Plus, no tripod. But I don't think tripod would help, either.

And I was stupid enough not to switch on Peaking Level to verify before shooting... Good Lord. I may swing by again tomorrow and give it another go.

By the way, anyone using filter UV filters such as this in ShaShinKi?
http://shashinki.com/shop/hoya-digital-mul...7mm-p-8170.html

Kit lens SEL1650 has one identical Hoya UV filter, and one Marumi CPL filter, but both 40.5mm.

Oh, and those looking for SEL1628, there is a used unit for sale in ShaShinKi, too. I may have gone for this, instead, if this comes in, first, before Sammy, LOL.
http://shashinki.com/shop/used-sony-16mm-w...ar-p-26786.html

This post has been edited by domo_kun: Nov 6 2015, 04:39 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)
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DarkSaviour
post Nov 6 2015, 04:58 PM

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hmm... my fren in HK helping me to buy Sony FE 55mm.. went few shops also no stock and said whole HK also shortage... slow down manufacturing in Japan..

Guess 55mm f1.4 coming..

This post has been edited by DarkSaviour: Nov 6 2015, 04:59 PM
hensky
post Nov 6 2015, 07:04 PM

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user posted image

15mm version 3 price ok??
any other place selling cheaper?
hensky
post Nov 6 2015, 07:26 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 6 2015, 04:31 PM)
Some samples that I shot with Sammy this morning in KLCC. Only when I got back that I realize I should have set to Infinity instead of 3 feet, which explains why they look sooooo blur?  rclxub.gif  Plus, no tripod. But I don't think tripod would help, either.

And I was stupid enough not to switch on Peaking Level to verify before shooting... Good Lord. I may swing by again tomorrow and give it another go.

By the way, anyone using filter UV filters such as this in ShaShinKi?
http://shashinki.com/shop/hoya-digital-mul...7mm-p-8170.html

Kit lens SEL1650 has one identical Hoya UV filter, and one Marumi CPL filter, but both 40.5mm.

Oh, and those looking for SEL1628, there is a used unit for sale in ShaShinKi, too. I may have gone for this, instead, if this comes in, first, before Sammy, LOL.
http://shashinki.com/shop/used-sony-16mm-w...ar-p-26786.html
*
first time use manual lens? it will need some time to practice.
but your samyang is ultra wide angle lens which is easier to manual focusing.

For landscape, usually shoot using around f8, we no need to worry about focusing, everything will be in focus.

For indoor or night shoot, where you need f2, the peaking level with focus magnification is useful icon_rolleyes.gif


Suggest to get zeiss touit 12mm f2.8 if stilll not used to manual focusing.
user posted image01 by ckinhoe, on Flickr
user posted image21 by ckinhoe, on Flickr
user posted image13 by ckinhoe, on Flickr

kyLL
post Nov 6 2015, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 6 2015, 02:12 PM)
Anyone using FE 70-200 F4 G OSS?
So far cheapest i found is RM4300 from KLDSLR.com (Sony Malaysia set)
Any shop cheaper than this price?
*
bro, this guy selling his used 70-200/f4

https://www.facebook.com/groups/33533424171...53744477579172/

RM4000.

Eiraku
post Nov 6 2015, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 6 2015, 07:26 PM)
first time use manual lens? it will need some time to practice.
but your samyang is ultra wide angle lens which is easier to manual focusing.

For landscape, usually shoot using around f8, we no need to worry about focusing, everything will be in focus.

For indoor or night shoot, where you need f2, the peaking level with focus magnification is useful  icon_rolleyes.gif
Suggest to get zeiss touit 12mm f2.8 if stilll not used to manual focusing.
*
Properly focused the Samyang can (depending on sample variance) actually be sharper than the Zeiss is lol, at least in the centre. Plus the Zeiss is more than twice the price even 2nd hand nowadays.

But yeah, it's got AF. A bit noisy AF compared to Sony lenses (and even Sigmas) but still it's got AF.

And domo_kun, unless you're planning to shoot something closer to you f/8-f/11 and infinity is a good place to start with for "normal" landscape shooting.

Don't be too hard on yourself about the settings mistake, you'll get used to it. I once shot landscape at f2.8 (not intentionally lol)... and another time at ISO3200 (in the daytime). Mistakes happen all the time. With enough practice choosing the right settings will become second nature (even if you will still make mistakes from time to time lol... I know I do).

Do remember to CHECK if infinity on your Samyang is really actually infinity. Put it on the mark and shoot. After that try a few shots a little bit behind and in front of the mark and check your shots at 100% mag, which one has the sharpest infinity.

Just in case.

If everything is STILL not sharp, understand that shooting sharp landscapes is hugely dependant on WHEN you do it. Shooting in the middle of a clear, hot day is prone to giving you heat haze in the distance - and THIS robs you of sharpness more than anything else actually.

On another note, that Voight 4.5/15 ver.2 looks really nice (even got some sample pics on the previous page IINM). Small and cute. A shame the mirrorless "adjustments" on the v.3 made it a lot bigger.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 6 2015, 09:21 PM
philipcs
post Nov 6 2015, 09:30 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 6 2015, 07:04 PM)
user posted image

15mm version 3 price ok??
any other place selling cheaper?
*
Shashinki cheaper - http://shashinki.com/shop/voigtlander-supe...ia-p-23364.html


philipcs
post Nov 6 2015, 09:34 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 6 2015, 09:13 PM)
On another note, that Voight 4.5/15 ver.2 looks really nice (even got some sample pics on the previous page IINM). Small and cute. A shame the mirrorless "adjustments" on the v.3 made it a lot bigger.
*
If i am not wrong, V2 got heavy vignetting and color smear at the corner issue on A7 camera
V3 is optimized for digital full frame sensor.
hensky
post Nov 6 2015, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 6 2015, 09:34 PM)
If i am not wrong, V2 got heavy vignetting and color smear at the corner issue on A7 camera
V3 is optimized for digital full frame sensor.
*
yup, red shift in a7 and a7r, only usable on a7s. not sure about a7ii.

close focusing by voigtlander 15mm F4.5 II
user posted imageMagnum by ckinhoe, on Flickr

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 6 2015, 10:07 PM
philipcs
post Nov 6 2015, 10:16 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 6 2015, 09:49 PM)
yup, red shift in a7 and a7r, only usable on a7s. not sure about a7ii.
*
Better not try since you already paying that much of money, even the flaw can be corrected in post process, but still.
Get v3 instead.

Remember to get the VM-E Close Focusing Adapter, it helps to focus REALLY close!
While taking this photo, my lens almost touches the train biggrin.gif
user posted imageCaterpillar Train | Taken by Sony A7II + Voigtlander Super Wide-Heliar 15mm f4.5 Aspherical III by Philip Pang, on Flickr

hensky
post Nov 6 2015, 10:20 PM

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SPAM SPAM (vm 15mm II on a7s)
user posted image
user posted image

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 6 2015, 10:20 PM
Eiraku
post Nov 6 2015, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 6 2015, 09:34 PM)
If i am not wrong, V2 got heavy vignetting and color smear at the corner issue on A7 camera
V3 is optimized for digital full frame sensor.
*
I don't really mind coz even IF (if lol) I get it it'll go on the A6000 primarily lol. Still no plans to go FF for now - I went mirrorless for the size reduction lol.

Unless, that is, Sony decides to do a humpless A6 FF cam ler.
philipcs
post Nov 6 2015, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 6 2015, 10:34 PM)
I don't really mind coz even IF (if lol) I get it it'll go on the A6000 primarily lol. Still no plans to go FF for now - I went mirrorless for the size reduction lol.

Unless, that is, Sony decides to do a humpless A6 FF cam ler.
*
Ahh... if APSC then not a problem smile.gif Buy Buy Buy!
Eiraku
post Nov 7 2015, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 6 2015, 10:34 PM)
Ahh... if APSC then not a problem smile.gif Buy Buy Buy!
*
Already have the Samyang for UWA, and the SEL20+ECU1 for 15mm.

But dat tiny Voight remains so very tempting nonetheless.
kyLL
post Nov 7 2015, 01:49 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 6 2015, 10:34 PM)
I don't really mind coz even IF (if lol) I get it it'll go on the A6000 primarily lol. Still no plans to go FF for now - I went mirrorless for the size reduction lol.

Unless, that is, Sony decides to do a humpless A6 FF cam ler.
*
hahaha.. i want the a7m2 because of the fake pentaprism! >_< and m2 cause the shutter button is in the right spot...
cyclone9
post Nov 7 2015, 03:11 AM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 6 2015, 02:32 PM)
Hey folks, Sony Stores @ KLCC & The Curve are doing promotion on select e-mount lenses as shown below. The discount offered is quite attractive.

user posted image
*
got promo for sony a7 body?
domo_kun
post Nov 7 2015, 09:14 AM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 6 2015, 07:26 PM)
first time use manual lens? it will need some time to practice.
but your samyang is ultra wide angle lens which is easier to manual focusing.
For landscape, usually shoot using around f8, we no need to worry about focusing, everything will be in focus.
For indoor or night shoot, where you need f2, the peaking level with focus magnification is useful  icon_rolleyes.gif
Suggest to get zeiss touit 12mm f2.8 if stilll not used to manual focusing.
Thanks for the tip, but if I can't manage Samyang, you think it would be good to invest on Zeiss? Haha, it's like 2-3 times the cost of a Samyang!

QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 6 2015, 09:13 PM)
Properly focused the Samyang can (depending on sample variance) actually be sharper than the Zeiss is lol, at least in the centre. Plus the Zeiss is more than twice the price even 2nd hand nowadays.
But yeah, it's got AF. A bit noisy AF compared to Sony lenses (and even Sigmas) but still it's got AF.
And domo_kun, unless you're planning to shoot something closer to you f/8-f/11 and infinity is a good place to start with for "normal" landscape shooting.
Don't be too hard on yourself about the settings mistake, you'll get used to it. I once shot landscape at f2.8 (not intentionally lol)... and another time at ISO3200 (in the daytime). Mistakes happen all the time. With enough practice choosing the right settings will become second nature (even if you will still make mistakes from time to time lol... I know I do).
Do remember to CHECK if infinity on your Samyang is really actually infinity. Put it on the mark and shoot. After that try a few shots a little bit behind and in front of the mark and check your shots at 100% mag, which one has the sharpest infinity.
Just in case.
If everything is STILL not sharp, understand that shooting sharp landscapes is hugely dependant on WHEN you do it. Shooting in the middle of a clear, hot day is prone to giving you heat haze in the distance - and THIS robs you of sharpness more than anything else actually.
On another note, that Voight 4.5/15 ver.2 looks really nice (even got some sample pics on the previous page IINM). Small and cute. A shame the mirrorless "adjustments" on the v.3 made it a lot bigger.
*
Duly noted. I'll definitely try it out again. But again, why f/8-f/11? Because it's neither too big or too small? The aperture, I mean. Come to think about it, I think I done those in f/2.8, hahaha.

That aside, how about the filters? Suggestion?
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post Nov 7 2015, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 7 2015, 09:14 AM)
Thanks for the tip, but if I can't manage Samyang, you think it would be good to invest on Zeiss? Haha, it's like 2-3 times the cost of a Samyang!
Duly noted. I'll definitely try it out again. But again, why f/8-f/11? Because it's neither too big or too small? The aperture, I mean. Come to think about it, I think I done those in f/2.8, hahaha.

That aside, how about the filters? Suggestion?
*
Why the small apertures? DOF and sharpness brah - at smaller apertures you get bigger DOF (go back and read my prior exps) and improved sharpness (lenses work best stopped down a bit).

Why not f/16-f/22 then? One word: Diffraction.

As for filters, it depends. For me I stopped using UV filters a while back because I shoot a lot at night and most filters give me flaring issues, (except really, really expensive B+W UV filters... supposedly anyway). I just use a hood (or rather, some stacked step-step-up rings as an impromptu hood) to keep my front element "safe".

However, UV filters do still help for protection when it comes to extreme conditions like seaside (seaspray, sand), so it helps to have one handy just in case.

As for other types of filters, personally I have an ND1000 for long exposure use (and plan to get an ND16 for less extreme exposures needs). Also, planning to get a CPL for some select shots (ones that don't have the sky in it - CPL + UWA + Sky = recipe for disaster).

Problem is the Samyang can be rather selective when it comes to filters. If you wanna stick with 67mm ones you need slim filters and can't stack more than one, otherwise you might just get vignetting (darkening) in the edges. This means, if you get a UV, you can't use an ND or CPL in top of it as usual with other lenses - you need to take the UV off FIRST.

If you use 72mm filters and a step up ring = same problem lol, you still need slim filters and can't stack. It still vignettes (thanks to the 72mm step up ring ironically).

Only way you can stack is possibly using one step up ring and 77-82mm filters but filters get more expensive with increased size so yeah.

Or... you know... don't stack and take the UV off first lol.

Anyway guys, anybody up for TT this weekend? Maybe during Divali hols perhaps?

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 7 2015, 11:11 AM
noname83
post Nov 7 2015, 01:54 PM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 7 2015, 01:54 PM)
My new RM5k baby  wub.gif

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Enjoy .. rclxms.gif
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post Nov 7 2015, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 7 2015, 01:54 PM)
My new RM5k baby  wub.gif

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welcome to the club rclxms.gif
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post Nov 7 2015, 04:29 PM

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Hmm. Just a thought. Second round today. I think these are better than yesterday's. Any thoughts? Still, it don't seem to be as sharp? Missing out on something, maybe?


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post Nov 7 2015, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 7 2015, 04:29 PM)
Hmm. Just a thought. Second round today. I think these are better than yesterday's. Any thoughts? Still, it don't seem to be as sharp? Missing out on something, maybe?
*
Err... heat haze lol? Not sure what to say Bro, do you have the original size JPEGs to post?

TBH picture #3 looks plenty sharp enough already.

Also, taken at ISO? Aperture?

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 7 2015, 04:52 PM
lwliam
post Nov 7 2015, 06:18 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 7 2015, 04:29 PM)
Hmm. Just a thought. Second round today. I think these are better than yesterday's. Any thoughts? Still, it don't seem to be as sharp? Missing out on something, maybe?
*
Just playing around biggrin.gif Looks pretty sharp to me.

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domo_kun
post Nov 7 2015, 06:44 PM

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Eiraku f/8 and some f/11, ISO200. Some how, I still think something is lacking and it doesn't look as sharp? Probably I'm expecting too much. By the way, use what editor to tinker with the RAW files? Sony RAW files format are in .ARW cannot be read in Photoshop! unsure.gif

lwliam Eh, what you did with it? shocking.gif
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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 7 2015, 06:44 PM)
Eiraku f/8 and some f/11, ISO200. Some how, I still think something is lacking and it doesn't look as sharp? Probably I'm expecting too much. By the way, use what editor to tinker with the RAW files? Sony RAW files format are in .ARW cannot be read in Photoshop!  unsure.gif

lwliam Eh, what you did with it?  shocking.gif
*
He prolly adjusted contrast and other things a bit - boosted shadows and tuned highlights (correct me if I'm wrong lol). That's normally what we do with OOC output anyway.

And yeah... contrast might just be your problem. Humans tend to perceive pictures with "enough" contrast as "sharp". Those taken with less contrast are don't usually look "sharp", lol.

And hence is your lesson on the importance of Post Processing - even if it's simple levels adjustments. While you CAN take "good" pictures OOC, even a little bit of PP can make it look even better-er.

But really, your pics are plenty sharp. Of course if you zoom to 800% and look at the pixels they won't look sharp anymore ler (all photos are jaggy and "unsharp" at the pixel level lol).

Which is why people buy the A7r and rII - more pixels to zoom into lol.

As for ARW, of course Photoshop can read it, but you need Adobe Camera Raw ler which works as the RAW bridge. Or just go Lightroom. Alternatively go download Capture One Express for Sony, that one works plenty well to begin with and is totally free to boot (but you'll need a 64bit computer ler).

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 7 2015, 07:06 PM
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post Nov 7 2015, 11:26 PM

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Hello, I am using a7r2..and I have an adapter la ea4....do you think Sal 70300G ssm is a good lens in that combination to shoot zoo animals?

I started to feel bored with Sony raw converter, it is so slow....any cheap but good alternatives?
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post Nov 8 2015, 12:51 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 7 2015, 04:29 PM)
Hmm. Just a thought. Second round today. I think these are better than yesterday's. Any thoughts? Still, it don't seem to be as sharp? Missing out on something, maybe?
*
Erm... You know that no one will only zoom in and look at the window only right?

Btw... How much you got the Samyang for and what do you think about it as of now.

Thinking to get whether the 12mm F2 or the 8mm F2.8 or both? laugh.gif

QUOTE(hanafinoor @ Nov 7 2015, 11:26 PM)
Hello, I am using a7r2..and I have an adapter la ea4....do you think Sal 70300G ssm is a good lens in that combination to shoot zoo animals?

I started to feel bored with Sony raw converter, it is so slow....any cheap but good alternatives?
*
*Ehem* *ehem* Photoshop/Lightroom CC? Straight can read without going through the whole conversion process. Get to save some disk space too. Previously when using PS CS5 I need to use Adobe DNG Converter to convert the files then only can open in Photoshop. Extra dng files in between. Now straight open .ARW no need keep another copy of files d.
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post Nov 8 2015, 02:30 AM

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QUOTE(hanafinoor @ Nov 7 2015, 11:26 PM)
Hello, I am using a7r2..and I have an adapter la ea4....do you think Sal 70300G ssm is a good lens in that combination to shoot zoo animals?

I started to feel bored with Sony raw converter, it is so slow....any cheap but good alternatives?
*
Err... if you need the range than why not. It's not as "fast" (aperture wise) as the FE70200 though, but that extra zoom range can be helpful. The combo can be a bit... err... big though, even compared to the already quite big FE70200.

As for RAW conversion, I thought Sony bundled Capture One Express for Sony with the new A7r2 already nowadays? That one is FREE what Bro Napi... and not really *that* slow either (of course Lightroom is slightly faster - IF your computer is well specced enough ler).

There's also Corel AfterShot Pro 2 that's not bad (and a LOT faster AND cheaper than LR) and PhotoNinja which has killer NR processing (slightly cheaper than LR, and could actually run respectably on my dinky 2GB Windows Tablet).

Capture One also offers an upgrade to a Capture One "Pro" for Sony version for about the same price as AfterShot Pro 2 - with the "limitation" that it will only process RAWs from and tether to a supported Sony camera.

And these are all the non *ehem* versions yer mind you lol.

You gave up your A-mount cams already ka Bro Napi? Or still shooting them alongside the A7r2?

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 8 2015, 02:43 AM
asrul
post Nov 8 2015, 09:55 AM

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anyone here have personal experience comparing 16-70 and 18-105?
which one have better IQ?
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post Nov 8 2015, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 6 2015, 02:32 PM)
Hey folks, Sony Stores @ KLCC & The Curve are doing promotion on select e-mount lenses as shown below. The discount offered is quite attractive.

user posted image
*
Sony Store offer SEL24F18 with better price smile.gif
domo_kun
post Nov 8 2015, 11:01 AM

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Photoshop CS2 and Camera Raw aren't compatible? Minimum requirement for Camera Raw is CS5 and above? Lightroom is a paid software... unsure.gif
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post Nov 8 2015, 11:03 AM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 8 2015, 09:55 AM)
anyone here have personal experience comparing 16-70 and 18-105?
which one have better IQ?
*
better IQ + wider end + lighter + better color = sony 16-70z
longer reach = sony 18-105

sony 18-105 has power zoom like the 16-50 kitlens

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 8 2015, 11:07 AM
hensky
post Nov 8 2015, 11:04 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 8 2015, 11:01 AM)
Photoshop CS2 and Camera Raw aren't compatible? Minimum requirement for Camera Raw is CS5 and above? Lightroom is a paid software...  unsure.gif
*
just get ahem ahem tongue.gif version
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post Nov 8 2015, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 8 2015, 11:01 AM)
Photoshop CS2 and Camera Raw aren't compatible? Minimum requirement for Camera Raw is CS5 and above? Lightroom is a paid software...  unsure.gif
*
You're saying like Photoshop is a free software biggrin.gif

Adobe doesn't update the camera raw to support older version of PS. CS5 can only update up to 6.X IINM. Newer cameras (from A6000 onwards maybe) all not supported in the latest version for CS5. Need upgrade to later PS to be able to get Camera RAW that supports newer cameras.

You can get the DNG Converter then open the DNG File instead. Not sure if there's any limitation on CS2 though biggrin.gif
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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 6 2015, 02:32 PM)
Hey folks, Sony Stores @ KLCC & The Curve are doing promotion on select e-mount lenses as shown below. The discount offered is quite attractive.

user posted image
*
Zeiss 16-70 good price? Any where lower than this?
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post Nov 8 2015, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 7 2015, 06:44 PM)
Eiraku f/8 and some f/11, ISO200. Some how, I still think something is lacking and it doesn't look as sharp? Probably I'm expecting too much. By the way, use what editor to tinker with the RAW files? Sony RAW files format are in .ARW cannot be read in Photoshop!  unsure.gif

lwliam Eh, what you did with it?  shocking.gif
*
Just standard brightness, contrast, shadows, highlights adjustment purely in LR. And this is just JPEG. Imagine what you can achieve with RAW.
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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 8 2015, 11:01 AM)
Photoshop CS2 and Camera Raw aren't compatible? Minimum requirement for Camera Raw is CS5 and above? Lightroom is a paid software...  unsure.gif
*
Capture One Express for Sony is FREE wor... and CO is regarded by some to even be BETTER then LR. Why not try that.

Unless you know, you're still running a 32-bit computer ler. In that case AfterShot Pro 2 isn't bad, and works well even on 32-bit. Plus ASP2 is faster and easier to work with than LR - though lens profile and preset-wise LR wins hands down of course.

asrul IQ wise the 18105G is much better than the kitty, but software uncorrected (in-camera or through LR profiles) the distortion is EVEN WORSE lol.

So yeah, if you don't mind software correction it's a pretty nice lens - if not a bit on the large side of things. Plus it's f/4 all the way.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 8 2015, 02:44 PM
domo_kun
post Nov 8 2015, 03:01 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 8 2015, 11:04 AM)
just get ahem ahem  tongue.gif version
*
Err, I hardly use any such version, though... hmm.gif

QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 8 2015, 11:35 AM)
You're saying like Photoshop is a free software biggrin.gif
Adobe doesn't update the camera raw to support older version of PS. CS5 can only update up to 6.X IINM. Newer cameras (from A6000 onwards maybe) all not supported in the latest version for CS5. Need upgrade to later PS to be able to get Camera RAW that supports newer cameras.
You can get the DNG Converter then open the DNG File instead. Not sure if there's any limitation on CS2 though biggrin.gif
*
My Photoshop CS2 was free; there was a time that Adobe released the SN for free on Photoshop, Illustrator, and others. So, yeah. Read in some forums that minimum requirement, CS5. Damn.

QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 8 2015, 01:30 PM)
Just standard brightness, contrast, shadows, highlights adjustment purely in LR. And this is just JPEG. Imagine what you can achieve with RAW.
*
You're awesome la! thumbup.gif notworthy.gif

QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 8 2015, 02:39 PM)
Capture One Express for Sony is FREE wor... and CO is regarded by some to even be BETTER then LR. Why not try that.
Unless you know, you're still running a 32-bit computer ler. In that case AfterShot Pro 2 isn't bad, and works well even on 32-bit. Plus ASP2 is faster and easier to work with than LR - though lens profile and preset-wise LR wins hands down of course.
*
Aisehhh... 32 bit Windows 7. I was considering to upgrade to 64 bit for the sake of more RAM for gaming purpose back then, but it can be quite expensive! So, CO is out, definitely. ASP2 also paid la... Adoi. Nothing for free? rclxub.gif
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post Nov 8 2015, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 8 2015, 03:01 PM)
Aisehhh... 32 bit Windows 7. I was considering to upgrade to 64 bit for the sake of more RAM for gaming purpose back then, but it can be quite expensive! So, CO is out, definitely. ASP2 also paid la... Adoi.

Nothing for free?  rclxub.gif
*
There's RAWTherapee and that one is TOTALLY free. Last I checked it did support the A6000 - but it can be a bit harder to make sense out of lol, much like GIMP vs Photoshop.

They do have tutorials online to help though.

Heres a link to the downloads section: http://goo.gl/gbrf7i . What you want to download is the Windows XP (32-bit) version.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 8 2015, 03:32 PM
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post Nov 8 2015, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(gin&tonic @ Nov 8 2015, 12:37 PM)
Zeiss 16-70 good price? Any where lower than this?
*
Compared to lazada.com.my, rakuten.com.my and shashinki.com, Sony Store offers the best deal now.

In fact, I bought my sel1670z at Sony Store on the first day of the promotion period.

Online stores offer better deal than physical stores, but almost every one of them is AP set (no Malaysian manufacturer warranty).

This post has been edited by noname83: Nov 8 2015, 04:45 PM
vincentlee90
post Nov 8 2015, 04:48 PM

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QUOTE(gin&tonic @ Nov 8 2015, 12:37 PM)
Zeiss 16-70 good price? Any where lower than this?
*
last year I can get slightly cheaper than that, because that time sony officially offer rebated price + special discount price. now, despite there's gst, SEL1670Z promo rm2599 really good price already
philipcs
post Nov 8 2015, 11:08 PM

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Went to KL Bird Park today with A7II + Canon FD 200mm F4 & Canon FD 135mm F2.8, manual focusing is not easy at all, only can take those birds that station still. biggrin.gif

This 1 with Canon FD 200mm F4, wide open @F4
user posted image
Lesser Adjutant Stork @ KL Bird Park | Taken with Sony A7II + Canon FD 200mm f4 by Philip Pang, on Flickr

This post has been edited by philipcs: Nov 8 2015, 11:26 PM
philipcs
post Nov 8 2015, 11:24 PM

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These 2 with Canon FD 135mm F2.8, both photos are wide open @f2.8

user posted image
Lesser Adjutant Stork @ KL Bird Park | Taken with Sony A7II + Canon FD 135mm f2.8 by Philip Pang, on Flickr

user posted image
Lesser Adjutant Stork @ KL Bird Park | Taken with Sony A7II + Canon FD 135mm f2.8 by Philip Pang, on Flickr

This post has been edited by philipcs: Nov 8 2015, 11:25 PM
Ksano
post Nov 8 2015, 11:43 PM

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With no haze, its fun to walk around everyday rclxms.gif
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post Nov 9 2015, 12:38 AM

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QUOTE(Ksano @ Nov 8 2015, 11:43 PM)
With no haze, its fun to walk around everyday  rclxms.gif
user posted image
*
nice view smile.gif
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post Nov 9 2015, 07:21 AM

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Why la others always have such better pictures than what I have in hand... cry.gif cry.gif cry.gif
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post Nov 9 2015, 08:07 AM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 6 2015, 03:45 PM)
I got the SEL55F18Z and the SEL1635Z under this promotion by PC IMAGE at Wisma Saberkas, Kuching.

user posted image

I bought the SEL1018 which went well with the A6000 but exchanged it for the SEL1635Z when I upgraded to the A7RII.

user posted image

Just sharing for what it's worth.
*
no 16-70?
vincentlee90
post Nov 9 2015, 09:55 AM

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QUOTE(dctravels @ Nov 6 2015, 03:45 PM)
I got the SEL55F18Z and the SEL1635Z under this promotion by PC IMAGE at Wisma Saberkas, Kuching.

user posted image

I bought the SEL1018 which went well with the A6000 but exchanged it for the SEL1635Z when I upgraded to the A7RII.

user posted image

Just sharing for what it's worth.
*
I saw SEL24F18Z
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post Nov 9 2015, 10:53 AM

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If I mount SEL24F18z on A7 on crop mode, would I be getting "almost the same' DOF as mounting SEL35F14z on FF mode? Aperture keeping at F1.8.

Since the 24mm will be 36mm equivalent on crop APS-C mode and the 35mm will be on full frame mode.
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QUOTE(tanjq87 @ Nov 9 2015, 10:53 AM)
If I mount SEL24F18z on A7 on crop mode, would I be getting "almost the same' DOF as mounting SEL35F14z on FF mode? Aperture keeping at F1.8.

Since the 24mm will be 36mm equivalent on crop APS-C mode and the 35mm will be on full frame mode.
*
DOF = Depth of Field.
You will not get the same even both set to 1.8.
FF lens DOF will be more shallow than the APSC lens = more bokeh effect in FF Lenses

This post has been edited by philipcs: Nov 9 2015, 02:14 PM
philipcs
post Nov 9 2015, 02:19 PM

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Ouch! blink.gif

https://www.facebook.com/258011901613/photo...?type=3&theater

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This post has been edited by philipcs: Nov 9 2015, 02:31 PM
DaddyO
post Nov 9 2015, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 9 2015, 11:07 AM)
DOF = Depth of Field.
You will not get the same even both set to 1.8.
FF lens DOF will be more shallow than the APSC lens = more bokeh effect in FF Lenses
*
DOF is actually the same. It's just the sensor crop 35mm eqv image thus narrower Field of View. When you have narrower FOV, you need to step back more to cover the subject, therefore wider DOF due to bigger distance between you and the subject. Don't forget longer focal length also affects the bokehness.

To get equivalent FF, 50mm f1.8, you need lens around 30mm f1.0 (if this exist) on APSC to stay around the same distance from the subject.

This post has been edited by DaddyO: Nov 9 2015, 02:38 PM
Eiraku
post Nov 9 2015, 02:39 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 9 2015, 02:19 PM)
Woah... Very much yowzer.
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post Nov 9 2015, 05:51 PM

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Does Lightroom 5.6 support AWR file?


Yes it does. Just confirm. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by gin&tonic: Nov 9 2015, 06:32 PM
minizian
post Nov 9 2015, 06:43 PM

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Hi, i finally make a leap with a used A7 and using manual nikon/pentax/voigtlander m lenses. Still need to get used with the menu setting considering how things was when i used to have Nex-7 as well. wave.gif
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post Nov 9 2015, 08:52 PM

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Anyway, if anybody's wondering what "Sonnar rendering" looks like, here's an example:

user posted imageSonnar Signature by Eirakkun, on Flickr

FE55, shot wide open... look at the eye-shaped bokeh around the edges that give it an almost swirly feel (not Helios-44 swirly, thank God lol). EVEN if they weren't OOF, the edges would still have this distinctive curve-y feel to them.

That, IMHO, is the Sonnar calling card (IINM anyway). Though some lenses have worse cases of the swirls than the better corrected FE55 lol (e.g. the Jupiter-8).

Compare it to the Planar Loxia, which doesn't have the swirls.

And before anybody asks... that's not shot on my little A6000 lol... it was one of Sony Curve's A7Rs. After all, Curve is still the best place to lepak2 if you feel like freely molesting Sony equipment lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 10 2015, 04:42 AM
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post Nov 9 2015, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(minizian @ Nov 9 2015, 06:43 PM)
Hi, i finally make a leap with a used A7 and using manual nikon/pentax/voigtlander m lenses. Still need to get used with the menu setting considering how things was when i used to have Nex-7 as well. wave.gif
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Welcome to the club!
lwliam
post Nov 10 2015, 01:08 AM

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QUOTE(DaddyO @ Nov 9 2015, 02:27 PM)
DOF is actually the same. It's just the sensor crop 35mm eqv image thus narrower Field of View. When you have narrower FOV, you need to step back more to cover the subject, therefore wider DOF due to bigger distance between you and the subject. Don't forget longer focal length also affects the bokehness.

To get equivalent FF, 50mm f1.8, you need lens around 30mm f1.0 (if this exist) on APSC to stay around the same distance from the subject.
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philipcs was actually correct.

to be more precise instead of just guesswork, there's always dofmaster.com for you to double check.

after plugging in a constant of f/1.8 and a focus distance of 150cm

on APSC: 24mm f/1.8 gives you a DoF of 27.6 cm

whereas

on FF: 35mm f/1.8 gives you a DoF of 19.3 cm

which is quite a significant difference.

note that 24mm on APSC gives you a field of view FoV of about 36mm (if you put a 36mm lens on a FF camera) - assuming the 1mm is negligible.

addition: even if you plug in 36mm on FF, the DoF reduces to only 18.2 cm

if you want the 35mm to match the 24mm in DoF, the 35mm would need to stop down to f/2.8 to get the closest match.

vice versa, the 24mm would need to be an f/1.2 to match the DoF of 35mm at f/1.8

This post has been edited by lwliam: Nov 10 2015, 01:18 AM
kizwan
post Nov 10 2015, 04:22 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 8 2015, 03:01 PM)
My Photoshop CS2 was free; there was a time that Adobe released the SN for free on Photoshop, Illustrator, and others. So, yeah. Read in some forums that minimum requirement, CS5. Damn.
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With Adobe DNG Converter, you can convert the Sony ARW file to DNG. To be able to open the DNG file in CS2, before converting, set compatibility to Camera Raw 2.4 or later since I believe CS2 came with Camera Raw 3.x version. You should be able to open the DNG file in CS2 but I can't confirm because I don't have CS2.

Which Alpha camera do you have by the way?

This post has been edited by kizwan: Nov 10 2015, 04:31 AM
ZeneticX
post Nov 10 2015, 07:40 AM

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trying out steel wool for the first time

a7 + SEL2870

user posted imageSteel Wool First Try by Zenyu Loh, on Flickr

user posted imageSteel Wool Second Try by Zenyu Loh, on Flickr
shukrie
post Nov 10 2015, 09:56 AM

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a6k + sel1018
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post Nov 10 2015, 10:28 AM

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am selling my 1650 as well as sigma 60mm.
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3767951&hl=
minizian
post Nov 10 2015, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 9 2015, 10:46 PM)
Welcome to the club!
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Hey you, you the one having the photostet brand camera with leica mount right brows.gif
philipcs
post Nov 10 2015, 04:27 PM

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QUOTE(minizian @ Nov 10 2015, 11:55 AM)
Hey you, you the one having the photostet brand camera with leica mount right  brows.gif
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Yaya rclxms.gif
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post Nov 10 2015, 05:53 PM

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Itchy hand to get that 16-70 😂
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post Nov 10 2015, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 9 2015, 08:52 PM)
Anyway, if anybody's wondering what "Sonnar rendering" looks like, here's an example:

user posted imageSonnar Signature by Eirakkun, on Flickr

FE55, shot wide open... look at the eye-shaped bokeh around the edges that give it an almost swirly feel (not Helios-44 swirly, thank God lol). EVEN if they weren't OOF, the edges would still have this distinctive curve-y feel to them.

That, IMHO, is the Sonnar calling card (IINM anyway). Though some lenses have worse cases of the swirls than the better corrected FE55 lol (e.g. the Jupiter-8).

Compare it to the Planar Loxia, which doesn't have the swirls.

And before anybody asks... that's not shot on my little A6000 lol... it was one of Sony Curve's A7Rs. After all, Curve is still the best place to lepak2 if you feel like freely molesting Sony equipment lol.
*
Actually I wouldn't call the FE55 a real Sonnar. I've read that Sony Zeiss lenses are Sony designed, Sony made, Zeiss QC-ed lens. Basically Zeiss share some technology to Sony and gives them the badge of approval.

Can try the Zeiss 50 1.5 Sonnar ZM for a real Sonnar feel drool.gif
domo_kun
post Nov 10 2015, 07:46 PM

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QUOTE(kizwan @ Nov 10 2015, 04:22 AM)
With Adobe DNG Converter, you can convert the Sony ARW file to DNG. To be able to open the DNG file in CS2, before converting, set compatibility to Camera Raw 2.4 or later since I believe CS2 came with Camera Raw 3.x version. You should be able to open the DNG file in CS2 but I can't confirm because I don't have CS2.

Which Alpha camera do you have by the way?
*
NEX6

BTW, anyone using LensPen?

kizwan Your tip works well, now I can edit the files in CS2. Thanks! icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by domo_kun: Nov 11 2015, 07:12 AM
aikonz
post Nov 11 2015, 12:08 AM

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Hi

I would like to ask for recommendation for any tele legacy lens to be mount on sony a7.

Thanks
philipcs
post Nov 11 2015, 01:16 AM

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QUOTE(aikonz @ Nov 11 2015, 12:08 AM)
Hi

I would like to ask for recommendation for any tele legacy lens to be mount on sony a7.

Thanks
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Try canon FD lenses. Very cheap.
ahpingko
post Nov 11 2015, 09:41 AM

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QUOTE(aikonz @ Nov 11 2015, 12:08 AM)
Hi

I would like to ask for recommendation for any tele legacy lens to be mount on sony a7.

Thanks
*
can try canon FD 70-200mm F4.. very good quality..

my sample from yesterday
user posted image

This post has been edited by ahpingko: Nov 11 2015, 09:42 AM
NLCH880215
post Nov 11 2015, 10:13 AM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 11 2015, 02:16 AM)
Try canon FD lenses. Very cheap.
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where to get those lens...
Jimsee
post Nov 11 2015, 10:54 AM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 10 2015, 06:23 PM)
Actually I wouldn't call the FE55 a real Sonnar. I've read that Sony Zeiss lenses are Sony designed, Sony made, Zeiss QC-ed lens. Basically Zeiss share some technology to Sony and gives them the badge of approval.

Can try the Zeiss 50 1.5 Sonnar ZM for a real Sonnar feel drool.gif
*
Can show any image difference with Zeiss 50 and Sony Zeiss 55mm 1.8 ?
philipcs
post Nov 11 2015, 10:57 AM

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QUOTE(NLCH880215 @ Nov 11 2015, 10:13 AM)
where to get those lens...
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I got mine all from Ebay, look for Japan seller because shipping is faster and cheaper.
sengwee1988
post Nov 11 2015, 12:11 PM

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Those who wants to buy Sony FW50 battery can buy in lazada, selling at RM89 now.
philipcs
post Nov 11 2015, 12:50 PM

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QUOTE(sengwee1988 @ Nov 11 2015, 12:11 PM)
Those who wants to buy Sony FW50 battery can buy in lazada, selling at RM89 now.
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Original?
sengwee1988
post Nov 11 2015, 01:25 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 11 2015, 12:50 PM)
Original?
*
Yup, by foto-shangrila, but i check again now price updated back to RM159. Sales over I guess.
Silverfire
post Nov 11 2015, 01:37 PM

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QUOTE(Jimsee @ Nov 11 2015, 10:54 AM)
Can show any image difference with Zeiss 50 and Sony Zeiss 55mm 1.8 ?
*
Some samples below but you can also check this review here with back to back samples comparing the Zeiss 50 f2 Planar, Zeiss Loxia 50 f2 Planar, Voigtlander 50 f1.5 and the Sony Zeiss FE 55 f1.8 Sonnar http://www.verybiglobo.com/zeiss-loxia-502...w-comming-soon/

Also another review here Zeiss Loxia 50 vs Sony Zeiss FE55 http://pheauteau.tumblr.com/post/100239673...eiss-fe-1855-vs

Zeiss 50 f1.5 Sonnar ZM
user posted image

Zeiss Loxia 50 f2
user posted image

Sony Zeiss FE 55 f1.8
user posted image

This post has been edited by Silverfire: Nov 11 2015, 01:41 PM
philipcs
post Nov 11 2015, 01:42 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 11 2015, 01:37 PM)
Zeiss Loxia 50 f2
user posted image

Sony Zeiss FE 55 f1.8
user posted image
*
Cannot really tell the different in term of bokeh characteristic.
gin&tonic
post Nov 11 2015, 01:44 PM

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QUOTE(sengwee1988 @ Nov 11 2015, 01:25 PM)
Yup, by foto-shangrila, but i check again now price updated back to RM159. Sales over I guess.
*
I got it for rm89 (with further 15% voucher ) a few minutes ago. COD & don't know if they will honor it?

This post has been edited by gin&tonic: Nov 11 2015, 01:45 PM
Silverfire
post Nov 11 2015, 01:52 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 11 2015, 01:42 PM)
Cannot really tell the different in term of bokeh characteristic.
*
Its not something I can explain really well (with the 2 photos I linked) but the most noticeable is that Loxia's bokeh has a more prominent ring to it while the FE55 doesn't. I'm trying to get my hands on a FE55 to make a side by side comparison which can clearly show the difference of both lenses.

Meanwhile, some shots of the Victoria State Library:
user posted imageDSC01901-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC01899-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

This post has been edited by Silverfire: Nov 11 2015, 01:57 PM
philipcs
post Nov 11 2015, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 11 2015, 01:52 PM)
Its not something I can explain really well (with the 2 photos I linked) but the most noticeable is that Loxia's bokeh has a more prominent ring to it while the FE55 doesn't. I'm trying to get my hands on a FE55 to make a side by side comparison which can clearly show the difference of both lenses.

Meanwhile, some shots of the Victoria State Library:

user posted imageDSC01899-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
*
This is nice! laugh.gif thumbup.gif
DarkSaviour
post Nov 11 2015, 02:31 PM

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to me Loxia bokeh is a bit busy and 55 smoother..
You can notice it..

bokeh very subjective... some love loxia and some love 55..


This post has been edited by DarkSaviour: Nov 11 2015, 02:37 PM
Xcaliber
post Nov 11 2015, 02:37 PM

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I sent my f43 ( warranty over ) to sony center KLCC .. Flash cannot ON ..
They quote me rm1450.35 .. aiyaaaa cancel service la .
any idea better place or better replacement
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post Nov 11 2015, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 11 2015, 01:42 PM)
Cannot really tell the different in term of bokeh characteristic.
*
Ya. Maybe i need a better monitor to see the difference. Both are splendid lenses. Wish i have both.

I heard rumor that Sony are coming up with FE1635 2.8 lenses. Gonna cost someone's kidney. sweat.gif

This post has been edited by Jimsee: Nov 11 2015, 04:00 PM
NLCH880215
post Nov 11 2015, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 11 2015, 11:57 AM)
I got mine all from Ebay, look for Japan seller because shipping is faster and cheaper.
*
need converter right?? still can use AF?

philipcs
post Nov 11 2015, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(NLCH880215 @ Nov 11 2015, 04:38 PM)
need converter right?? still can use AF?
*
Canon FD and all old legacy lenses are manual focus.
You need FD-E adapter to use Canon FD lenses on Sony A7 and other E-Mount body.
imnew
post Nov 11 2015, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(gin&tonic @ Nov 11 2015, 01:44 PM)
I got it for rm89 (with further 15% voucher ) a few minutes ago. COD & don't know if they will honor it?
*
hi.. where to get d 15% off voucher, if you dont mind sharing biggrin.gif
imnew
post Nov 11 2015, 11:23 PM

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- sorry double post -

This post has been edited by imnew: Nov 11 2015, 11:26 PM
IwanAGP
post Nov 11 2015, 11:41 PM

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QUOTE(ahpingko @ Nov 11 2015, 09:41 AM)
can try canon FD 70-200mm F4.. very good quality..

my sample from yesterday
user posted image
*
My question... How many shot did you attempt before getting this shot?

Wind is blowing and i believe it's done handheld. The DOF is so thin at that focal range biggrin.gif
gin&tonic
post Nov 12 2015, 12:07 AM

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QUOTE(imnew @ Nov 11 2015, 11:23 PM)
hi.. where to get d 15% off voucher, if you dont mind sharing biggrin.gif
*
Today only Lazada 1111 promotion. Just ended midnite. biggrin.gif
noname83
post Nov 12 2015, 12:10 AM

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QUOTE(imnew @ Nov 11 2015, 11:23 PM)
hi.. where to get d 15% off voucher, if you dont mind sharing biggrin.gif
*
You can enjoy 40% discount (a max. discount of RM20) when you buy the NP-FW50 battery via Lazada's Android or iOS app. (Offer only for *new customers*)

Foto Shangri-la @ Lazada is still offering the battery at RM89. After 40% discount, I only need to pay RM69.

I immediately purchased one. biggrin.gif

Voucher code: REVONC40
Eiraku
post Nov 12 2015, 12:40 AM

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QUOTE(Jimsee @ Nov 11 2015, 03:59 PM)
Ya. Maybe i need a better monitor to see the difference. Both are splendid lenses.  Wish i have both.

I heard rumor that Sony are coming up with FE1635 2.8 lenses.  Gonna cost someone's kidney.  sweat.gif
*
Well... rumours has it (and remember folks, this is JUST a rumour) that Sony seems set to go 2.8 on the ENTIRE range of constant zooms: the 1635, 2470 AND 70200.

So yeah, stock up on your tradable body parts folks. You're gonna need em.

As for the Sonnar/FakeSonnar/Planar discussion, I actually prefer the FakeSonnar - seems from the pic you posted the ZM Sonnar has cateye-ish ring bokeh (which I can't stand). Even the Loxia has slightly less cateye-ish bokeh.

But in terms of overall presentation, yeah the FakeSonnar is smoother and has slightly less of that Zeiss "Pop". Which some may prefer, others may not.

And Sonnar/Planar/Distagon et al is just optical fomulae really. A Sonnar is a Sonnar is a Sonnar no matter who makes it (though Zeiss did, in the beginning, invent it per se). A Jupiter-9 (or Jup-8) is STILL of a Sonnar design even though it's a blatant unauthorised copy of the original 85 Zeiss Sonnar - not having "permission" from Zeiss just means they can't use the word "Sonnar" in the name for official marketing purposes (which in a way, makes the Jups the "real" FakeSonnars).

I mean, a Cooke Triplet is a Cooke Triplet no matter who makes it, right? The Trioplan (as in the Mayer Soaplens) is different though as it's not the name of an optical formula, it's the name of the lens itself (which is... well... a version of the Triplet anyway lol).

In a way, the same can be argued about Leica's Elmars and various 'Crons... but seems nobody likes to be on Leica's bad side by copying their designs lol - except maybe Pana (being a direct Leica partner), and even then just how much the original Leica optical formula is actually in use in similarly "named" Pana lenses are slightly more debatable.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 12 2015, 05:37 AM
bdrc
post Nov 12 2015, 02:21 PM

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user posted imageIn flight by RICO Lee, on Flickr

user posted imageParadise by RICO Lee, on Flickr
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post Nov 12 2015, 04:15 PM

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anyone know which seller in kl offer the best dual lens package for A6000 ya ? White colour body as well
vincentlee90
post Nov 12 2015, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(g88 @ Nov 12 2015, 04:15 PM)
anyone know which seller in kl offer the best dual lens package for A6000 ya ? White colour body as well
*
u can try to contact foto miami for best price & package
ahpingko
post Nov 12 2015, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 11 2015, 11:41 PM)
My question... How many shot did you attempt before getting this shot?

Wind is blowing and i believe it's done handheld. The DOF is so thin at that focal range biggrin.gif
*
this one ah? only 1 shot... randomly sweeping through the grass in paddy field then i noticed it... so took a snap.. haha.. yes handheld and MF..can be done easier if you have more practice with it.. tongue.gif


vincentlee90
post Nov 13 2015, 08:50 PM

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http://www.dpreview.com/articles/685142810...meras-500-800/7

http://www.dpreview.com/articles/685142810...eras-500-800/14

This post has been edited by vincentlee90: Nov 13 2015, 08:51 PM
nixonyang
post Nov 13 2015, 09:21 PM

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Scenic view from Hualien, Taiwan

user posted image
tenchi0205
post Nov 15 2015, 12:17 PM

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My 1 year + old battery bloated already...original come from the camera when I bought the camera...

Any nice 3rd party battery nice?
myboey
post Nov 15 2015, 12:42 PM

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Hi all masters... I just bought A6000...just wander should I trade in my Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II to get a SEL55210- 55-210mm F4.3/ 6.3 Lens. Any advise for y'all who tried both lenses before?
myboey
post Nov 15 2015, 12:42 PM

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Hi all masters... I just bought A6000...just wander should I trade in my Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II to get a SEL55210- 55-210mm F4.3/ 6.3 Lens. Any advise for y'all who tried both lenses before?
lwliam
post Nov 15 2015, 01:45 PM

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QUOTE(myboey @ Nov 15 2015, 12:42 PM)
Hi all masters... I just bought A6000...just wander should I trade in my Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II to get a SEL55210- 55-210mm F4.3/ 6.3 Lens. Any advise for y'all who tried both lenses before?
*
If you're already committed to A6000, then yes, sell off the EF-S to get the SEL.
Eiraku
post Nov 15 2015, 02:39 PM

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QUOTE(myboey @ Nov 15 2015, 12:42 PM)
Hi all masters... I just bought A6000...just wander should I trade in my Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II to get a SEL55210- 55-210mm F4.3/ 6.3 Lens. Any advise for y'all who tried both lenses before?
*
Are you still keeping your Canon? If not, do get the SEL. Not sure how an EF-S lens would fare with an AF adapter, but the 55250 is relatively large to be used on mirrorless - plus it lacks OSS when used with an adapter (I think... not sure).

If you're still keeping your Canon, than it's a question of which system you plan to use more lol.

As for the IQ of the SEL55210, I have one and while I don't really plan to use it all that much out of shooting sports (I haven't had the chance yet), the few test shots I did with it turned out quite well really - for a kit telezoom.

Sure, the SEL55210 isn't an FE70200, but it's plenty good considering how small it is.

Here's one of them test shots, taken stopped down to f/8 at 210mm:

user posted imageA Quick Peek by Eirakkun, on Flickr

tenchi0205: Octopus batts are okay, if not a tad flimsy as the batt connector tends to break with hard use. That's why I generally keep mine as a backup nowadays.

If you're careful they should be fine though.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 15 2015, 03:34 PM
ExCrIpT
post Nov 15 2015, 03:42 PM

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Is there a big difference between a5100 and a6000? Is it necessary to get 6000 over 5100?
Eiraku
post Nov 15 2015, 04:06 PM

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QUOTE(ExCrIpT @ Nov 15 2015, 03:42 PM)
Is there a big difference between a5100 and a6000? Is it necessary to get 6000 over 5100?
*
Big difference: EVF. Sounds simple but isn't really, as the A5100 lacks the ability to use an external add-on EVF like the older NEX-5 series.

So, you want an EVF or not? If you're serious about photography/videography, then YES you're gonna need that EVF. If not, it's not exactly a deal-breaker but is still worth considering paying more for.

Also, the A5100 (and the A5000 before it) is seriously gimped in terms of manual controls. You need to go into the full menu to access stuff not mapped to external buttons (which it doesn't have many of to begin with). The A6000 (as with all the NEXs before it) has an FN quick menu that makes things a lot faster.

That said, if you're more of a casual snapper, the A5100 is more than fine - especially as it offers A6000 image quality in such a small (considerably smaller than the A6000), easy to use body.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 15 2015, 04:16 PM
tenchi0205
post Nov 15 2015, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 15 2015, 02:39 PM)


tenchi0205: Octopus batts are okay, if not a tad flimsy as the batt connector tends to break with hard use. That's why I generally keep mine as a backup nowadays.

If you're careful they should be fine though.
*
Ok noted.
vincentlee90
post Nov 15 2015, 07:05 PM

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QUOTE(ExCrIpT @ Nov 15 2015, 03:42 PM)
Is there a big difference between a5100 and a6000? Is it necessary to get 6000 over 5100?
*
for me, i would highly recommend u to choose A6000

*very good EVF
*hotshoe for accessory expansion (external flash, external microphone)
-kytz-
post Nov 15 2015, 07:16 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 15 2015, 04:06 PM)
Big difference: EVF. Sounds simple but isn't really, as the A5100 lacks the ability to use an external add-on EVF like the older NEX-5 series.

So, you want an EVF or not? If you're serious about photography/videography, then YES you're gonna need that EVF. If not, it's not exactly a deal-breaker but is still worth considering paying more for.

Also, the A5100 (and the A5000 before it) is seriously gimped in terms of manual controls. You need to go into the full menu to access stuff not mapped to external buttons (which it doesn't have many of to begin with). The A6000 (as with all the NEXs before it) has an FN quick menu that makes things a lot faster.

That said, if you're more of a casual snapper, the A5100 is more than fine - especially as it offers A6000 image quality in such a small (considerably smaller than the A6000), easy to use body.
*
+1

But but.. for selfie lovers, should go for the A5100 instead tongue.gif tongue.gif
Eiraku
post Nov 15 2015, 07:58 PM

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QUOTE(-kytz- @ Nov 15 2015, 07:16 PM)
+1

But but.. for selfie lovers, should go for the A5100 instead tongue.gif tongue.gif
*
And yeah this of course.

Or just hunt for a NEX5T, which has a fully articulating AND selfie able screen + EVF capability (with the add-on) + FN Quick Menu.

But of course, the sensor on the 5T is one whole gen behind the A6000/A5100 lol. You win some, you lose some.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 15 2015, 07:58 PM
asrul
post Nov 15 2015, 08:22 PM

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gin&tonic
post Nov 15 2015, 09:36 PM

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My Win7 PC cannot detect my A6000. Maybe driver issue. Can give link where to download this driver? Thx

Fix. The USB cable is faulty. doh.gif sweat.gif

This post has been edited by gin&tonic: Nov 15 2015, 10:52 PM
Silverfire
post Nov 16 2015, 04:41 AM

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People with laptop or Surface or whatever PC that has WiFi, can browse Windows Store for M2 Sony Camera Remote ( https://www.microsoft.com/store/apps/9wzdncrdg75p ) to do partially working wireless tethering shoot with your Sony cameras.

The app only sends a 1080p low res jpg to your PC though. But still if you need to check your image quick, this should work smile.gif

This post has been edited by Silverfire: Nov 16 2015, 04:42 AM
Eiraku
post Nov 16 2015, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 16 2015, 04:41 AM)
People with laptop or Surface or whatever PC that has WiFi, can browse Windows Store for M2 Sony Camera Remote ( https://www.microsoft.com/store/apps/9wzdncrdg75p ) to do partially working wireless tethering shoot with your Sony cameras.

The app only sends a 1080p low res jpg to your PC though. But still if you need to check your image quick, this should work smile.gif
*
Woah wireless.

Personally I prefer using the Android remote for WIFI tethering - especially now that it's updated to include the ever handy BULB mode. Not being able to capture the full RAW straight to the phone is a bit of a PITA - though Android can't really render Sony RAWs anyway so it's a bit moot lol.

That said, thanks for the tip as I do have a Windows tablet that I carry around my travels for emergency editing. Good to know I can do wireless tethering with it too in a pinch.

BTW, quick question. Do you guys register your stuff with LensTag? If not anything else it does help put your photo gear spending into clearer terms: The Value tab gives you a quick reminder of just how much money you've sunk into taking photos lol.

Not sure about the locating stolen stuff part. If everybody uses LensTag locally it might be a better source of info on that end though.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 16 2015, 12:13 PM
lwliam
post Nov 16 2015, 01:29 PM

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Too afraid to know how much I've put into gears. Probably 30k now..

Minus out the jobs I've covered so far with said gears, probably on the green now anyway. Oh well.. lol
Eiraku
post Nov 16 2015, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 16 2015, 01:29 PM)
Too afraid to know how much I've put into gears. Probably 30k now..

Minus out the jobs I've covered so far with said gears, probably on the green now anyway. Oh well.. lol
*
Lol... I kno them feels Bro... though I don't think I'll ever make enough back to balance the initial spending... which, you know, includes my old A200 and the entire shebang of associated accessories that I let go at a huge loss a long whole back due to... issues.

Which is also one of the main reasons why I'm not going FF - I just can't afford it lol.

LensTag is still pretty useful to track your stuff with though - especially with those with an entire arsenal of vintage glass lol. At least you'll know at a glance what stuff you have. The value database is pretty well updated too.

Plus, the more people use it, the more useful it becomes at its primary purpose: Theft Deterrence.

BTW, a bit off topic here, but some eBay delays have resulted in me having an extra A6000 L-Bracket set. Anybody interested can PM me.

Will also put it up on Garage later, just felt like giving you guys a heads up first.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 16 2015, 03:30 PM
NLCH880215
post Nov 16 2015, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 16 2015, 04:24 PM)
Lol... I kno them feels Bro... though I don't think I'll ever make enough back to balance the initial spending... which, you know, includes my old A200 and the entire shebang of associated accessories that I let go at a huge loss a long whole back due to... issues.

Which is also one of the main reasons why I'm not going FF - I just can't afford it lol.

LensTag is still pretty useful to track your stuff with though - especially with those with an entire arsenal of vintage glass lol. At least you'll know at a glance what stuff you have. The value database is pretty well updated too.

Plus, the more people use it, the more useful it becomes at its primary purpose: Theft Deterrence.

BTW, a bit off topic here, but some eBay delays have resulted in me having an extra A6000 L-Bracket set. Anybody interested can PM me.

Will also put it up on Garage later, just felt like giving you guys a heads up first.
*
hi wanted to know that what is the L-bracket used for??

Eiraku
post Nov 16 2015, 04:05 PM

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QUOTE(NLCH880215 @ Nov 16 2015, 03:41 PM)
hi wanted to know that what  is the L-bracket used for??
*
In a nutshell, it looks like THIS:

user posted image

... goes onto your camera like THIS:

user posted image

... and allows your camera to do THIS:

user posted image

... or THIS:

user posted image

It's also very useful as an impromptu vertical grip... or just to add additional grip to the lower part of the A6000. The side part (the one that allows for portrait clamping) is easily removable for normal use, allowing you to just use the bottom part as a grip/landscape clamp plate on its own.

You need to have an Arca Swiss compatible tripod clamp to be able to use it on a tripod though. If your tripod clamp is one of those brand-specific QR clamps that isn't Arca compatible, you might not be able to use it.

I'm letting go of the bracket at cost price to you folks as it's an extra unit I don't need anyway.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 16 2015, 04:28 PM
hensky
post Nov 16 2015, 04:19 PM

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want to share something for lightroom users.

http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=254&t=3556825

it is a skintone correction camera profiles for sony cameras. It can be convert to Fuji S5PRO, Canon 5D like colors.

just download the profile for your camera models and extract it to

C:\Users\<username>\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles
cyclone9
post Nov 16 2015, 07:33 PM

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Which best FE lens for travelling (landscape,street) ? looking for 1 FE lens
1) 35mm f2.8
2) 55mm f1.8 (2nd hand)
3) 16-35mm f4 (2nd hand)

Added: Shop that provide best deal for Sony A7 markII?

This post has been edited by cyclone9: Nov 16 2015, 07:36 PM
Eiraku
post Nov 16 2015, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 16 2015, 04:19 PM)
want to share something for lightroom users.

http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=254&t=3556825

it is a skintone correction camera profiles for sony cameras. It can be convert to Fuji S5PRO, Canon 5D like colors.

just download the profile for your camera models and extract it to

C:\Users\<username>\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles
*
Oh yum. Fuji colours for the A6000 AND NEX5T!

Thanks Bro... except it seems I can't download them. Anybody care to rehost the A6k and N5T S5Pro profiles somewhere else (like Google Drive or D-box)?

cyclone9 For FF, and if you can only have one lens, of course the FE1635 - it's plenty wide for Landscape and 35 is the perfect (for me anyway) FL for streeting.

That said, personally I'd take the FE28 but I'm just partial to bright and small primes.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 17 2015, 01:08 AM
lwliam
post Nov 16 2015, 10:51 PM

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QUOTE(cyclone9 @ Nov 16 2015, 07:33 PM)
Which best FE lens for travelling (landscape,street) ?  looking for 1 FE lens
1) 35mm f2.8
2) 55mm f1.8 (2nd hand)
3) 16-35mm f4 (2nd hand)

Added: Shop that provide best deal for Sony A7 markII?
*
My vote (in your list) goes to 35/2.8

But, if away from your list which meets the requirement of travel, not many trumps the beaten path of the 24-70mm range.
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 01:59 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 16 2015, 10:25 PM)
Oh yum. Fuji colours for the A6000 AND NEX5T!

Thanks Bro... except it seems I can't download them. Anybody care to rehost the A6k and N5T S5Pro profiles somewhere else (like Google Drive or D-box)?

cyclone9 For FF, and if you can only have one lens, of course the FE1635 - it's plenty wide for Landscape and 35 is the perfect (for me anyway) FL for streeting.

That said, personally I'd take the FE28 but I'm just partial to bright and small primes.
*
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8574184...6000%20fuji.zip

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8574184...ex5t%20fuji.zip
Eiraku
post Nov 17 2015, 04:38 AM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 01:59 AM)
Wow... many, many thanks boss... thumbup.gif

Getting them now... Yummy Fuji colours here I come!
asrul
post Nov 17 2015, 07:44 AM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 01:59 AM)
can share me the all the a6000 color listed there please?
NLCH880215
post Nov 17 2015, 08:15 AM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 02:59 AM)
can it be used in mac's lr??
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 08:54 AM

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QUOTE(NLCH880215 @ Nov 17 2015, 08:15 AM)
can it be used in mac's lr??
*
Yes, mac lightroom supported.

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 17 2015, 08:56 AM
domo_kun
post Nov 17 2015, 08:56 AM

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One more day to go before going out on field and apply what I learnt here. Any more quick tips on MF lens; landscape and street shooting? sweat.gif sweat.gif
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 09:03 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 17 2015, 08:56 AM)
One more day to go before going out on field and apply what I learnt here. Any more quick tips on MF lens; landscape and street shooting?  sweat.gif  sweat.gif
*
For still subject, peaking level and magnifying tool is the best.

For moving subject, goodluck haha. Try practise around today

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 17 2015, 09:06 AM
domo_kun
post Nov 17 2015, 09:16 AM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 09:03 AM)
For still subject, peaking level and magnifying tool is the best.
For moving subject, goodluck haha. Try practise around today
*
It's like a challenge for my own-self, so mehhh... Something new to learn and pick up, good to know. sweat.gif
Eiraku
post Nov 17 2015, 09:35 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 17 2015, 08:56 AM)
One more day to go before going out on field and apply what I learnt here. Any more quick tips on MF lens; landscape and street shooting?  sweat.gif  sweat.gif
*
DOF at f/4 is usually wide enough for 12mm street... f/11 should be whole-frame already.

Why know this? Compensating to get faster shutter speeds for motion blur avoidance (wider aperture, faster shutter speed). Adjust aperture as needed as your lens can't do it for you.

Unless you know, you actually wanna go artistic with blurred motion.
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 09:47 AM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 17 2015, 07:44 AM)
can share me the all the a6000 color listed there please?
*
can get from this link
http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=254&t=3556825
i tried the link for download is working
just download it and extract to

*win7 and newer
C:\Users\<username>\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles

*mac osx
<harddisk name>:\user\<username>\Library\Application Support\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 17 2015, 09:48 AM
asrul
post Nov 17 2015, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 09:47 AM)
can get from this link
http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=254&t=3556825
i tried the link for download is working
just download it and extract to

*win7 and newer
C:\Users\<username>\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles

*mac osx
<harddisk name>:\user\<username>\Library\Application Support\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles
*
i know but i couldnt understand the web.
can upload to dropbox ?
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 17 2015, 09:54 AM)
i know but i couldnt understand the web.
can upload to dropbox ?
*
tongue.gif just search for your camera model like a6000 then it will have few results.

example:
*20150315 新增a6000 to Leica M8, M8IR, M9, M Typ 240

the download link is below the wording.
asrul
post Nov 17 2015, 11:41 AM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 10:04 AM)
tongue.gif  just search for your camera model like a6000 then it will have few results.

example:
*20150315 新增a6000 to Leica M8, M8IR, M9, M Typ 240

the download link is below the wording.
*
and redirect me to other pages with few more link.
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 17 2015, 11:41 AM)
and redirect me to other pages with few more link.
*
haha ok, just note that you need to sign in to download.

a6000
canon
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g0n82keesowzbgv/...0canon.zip?dl=0

fuji
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g0n82keesowzbgv/...20fuji.zip?dl=0

leica
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/g0n82keesowzbgv/...0leica.zip?dl=0

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 17 2015, 11:59 AM
asrul
post Nov 17 2015, 12:03 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 11:51 AM)
thanks notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

got one more for nikon right whistling.gif
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 01:03 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 17 2015, 12:03 PM)
thanks  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif

got one more for nikon right  whistling.gif
*
ya nod.gif

http://tuts.jhxjh.com/NIKON_SKINTONE_v2013.rar
D3、D3S/X、D4、D40X、D50、D60、D70/S、D80、D90、D200、D300/S
D600(最新)、D700、D800/E、D3000、D3100、D3200、D5000、D5100
D7000、J1 / V1、D2H、D2X、D100、D5200、D7100
Nikon1: V2、J2、J3
Coolpix A、P330、P7700


http://tuts.jhxjh.com/NIKON_SKINTONE_v2014.rar
AW1、P7800、D610、Df、D5300、D40


http://tuts.jhxjh.com/NIKON_SKINTONE_v2014_July.rar
D810、D4s、D3300、Nikon1 V3、J4、P340


http://tuts.jhxjh.com/Nikon_Skintone_2015.rar
D750、D5500、D7200


http://tuts.jhxjh.com/Nikon_Leica_M9.rar
Nikon to Leica M9
asrul
post Nov 17 2015, 02:02 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 01:03 PM)
ya  nod.gif

http://tuts.jhxjh.com/NIKON_SKINTONE_v2013.rar
D3、D3S/X、D4、D40X、D50、D60、D70/S、D80、D90、D200、D300/S
D600(最新)、D700、D800/E、D3000、D3100、D3200、D5000、D5100
D7000、J1 / V1、D2H、D2X、D100、D5200、D7100
Nikon1: V2、J2、J3
Coolpix A、P330、P7700
http://tuts.jhxjh.com/NIKON_SKINTONE_v2014.rar
AW1、P7800、D610、Df、D5300、D40
http://tuts.jhxjh.com/NIKON_SKINTONE_v2014_July.rar
D810、D4s、D3300、Nikon1 V3、J4、P340
http://tuts.jhxjh.com/Nikon_Skintone_2015.rar
D750、D5500、D7200
http://tuts.jhxjh.com/Nikon_Leica_M9.rar
Nikon to Leica M9
*
no i mean nikon color profile for a6000 doh.gif
asrul
post Nov 17 2015, 02:12 PM

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user posted imageFood Trucker by asrul seruji, on Flickr

user posted imageFood Truck by asrul seruji, on Flickr

Straight from Camera
only Auto Contrast in PS and Crop.

This post has been edited by asrul: Nov 17 2015, 02:17 PM
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 02:14 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 17 2015, 02:02 PM)
no i mean nikon color profile for a6000  doh.gif
*
haha dont have nikon color
philipcs
post Nov 17 2015, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 16 2015, 10:25 PM)
Oh yum. Fuji colours for the A6000 AND NEX5T!

Thanks Bro... except it seems I can't download them. Anybody care to rehost the A6k and N5T S5Pro profiles somewhere else (like Google Drive or D-box)?

cyclone9 For FF, and if you can only have one lens, of course the FE1635 - it's plenty wide for Landscape and 35 is the perfect (for me anyway) FL for streeting.

That said, personally I'd take the FE28 but I'm just partial to bright and small primes.
*
Yes, I will get the FE28f2 as well.
Eiraku
post Nov 17 2015, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 17 2015, 02:47 PM)
Yes, I will get the FE28f2 as well.
*
It's small, bright and sharp. Also it takes the wide and fisheye adapters so it's plenty flexible. And it's the cheapest FF prime in the FE lineup... what's not to like lol?

That said, the 1635 has a much more flexible zoom range and a constant F4, so it's still worthwhile to consider if you've got the funds for it... especially if you can't bother (or can't afford to, in the case of more cramped destinations like the streets of Istanbul) to zoom with your legs.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 17 2015, 04:00 PM
gin&tonic
post Nov 17 2015, 05:45 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 09:47 AM)
can get from this link
http://www.mobile01.com/topicdetail.php?f=254&t=3556825
i tried the link for download is working
just download it and extract to

*win7 and newer
C:\Users\<username>\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles

*mac osx
<harddisk name>:\user\<username>\Library\Application Support\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles
*
Already extracted but any guide on how to use this in LR? sweat.gif
hensky
post Nov 17 2015, 05:49 PM

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QUOTE(gin&tonic @ Nov 17 2015, 05:45 PM)
Already extracted but any guide on how to use this in LR?  sweat.gif
*
to apply, just go to the last section (camera calibration) when doing editing job.

user posted image

you can choose from the profile.
gin&tonic
post Nov 17 2015, 11:53 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 17 2015, 05:49 PM)
to apply, just go to the last section (camera calibration) when doing editing job.

user posted image

you can choose from the profile.
*
Thx got it. smile.gif
Silverfire
post Nov 18 2015, 02:35 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 17 2015, 03:00 PM)
It's small, bright and sharp. Also it takes the wide and fisheye adapters so it's plenty flexible. And it's the cheapest FF prime in the FE lineup... what's not to like lol?

That said, the 1635 has a much more flexible zoom range and a constant F4, so it's still worthwhile to consider if you've got the funds for it... especially if you can't bother (or can't afford to, in the case of more cramped destinations like the streets of Istanbul) to zoom with your legs.
*
Some of my shots with the FE28F20. The price is really affordable, downside would be the heavy vignetting. Have to compromise either shadows or highlights when shooting under bright situations.

RAW-Processed
user posted imageDSC01846-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

JPG-Processed
user posted imageDSC00250-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

JPG-Processed
user posted imageDSC00214-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
beplouis76
post Nov 18 2015, 07:50 AM

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Not sure is the correct place.. Want to get some opinion from guys. Should I wait for "so call new a6000' or just get the a6000?
domo_kun
post Nov 18 2015, 08:52 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 17 2015, 09:35 AM)
DOF at f/4 is usually wide enough for 12mm street... f/11 should be whole-frame already.
Why know this? Compensating to get faster shutter speeds for motion blur avoidance (wider aperture, faster shutter speed). Adjust aperture as needed as your lens can't do it for you.
Unless you know, you actually wanna go artistic with blurred motion.
*
Yes, sir! thumbup.gif
adlirazali
post Nov 18 2015, 12:05 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

nice shots you have there. would you prefer 28m over 55mm?
Jimsee
post Nov 18 2015, 12:24 PM

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Sony release their firmware 2.00. Anyone with A7ii updated theirs yet ?
mastering89
post Nov 18 2015, 07:20 PM

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QUOTE(Jimsee @ Nov 18 2015, 12:24 PM)
Sony release their firmware 2.00. Anyone with A7ii  updated theirs yet ?
*
updated mine
got the option for uncompressed raw.
but nothing else for me sad.gif

saw the thing about LAEA3.
anyone has LAEA3 with a7ii can confirm any difference?
does new update gives phase detection (PDAF) with LAEA3 with more AF points as per a7rii? hmm.gif
scratch that, answered by Brian Smith = link =
just need to confirm if all the AF points available just for SSM lenses only or to SAM & non sony lenses as well hmm.gif

This post has been edited by mastering89: Nov 18 2015, 07:23 PM
Silverfire
post Nov 18 2015, 07:52 PM

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QUOTE(adlirazali @ Nov 18 2015, 12:05 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

nice shots you have there. would you prefer 28m over 55mm?
*
I do not own the FE55 or really had it for more than 5 minutes so I really can't tell. Out of my budget laugh.gif

But the FE55 will be kinda hard to be used for everyday stuff, kinda too tight.
hensky
post Nov 18 2015, 08:38 PM

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Random test shot after getting FE 16-35.
user posted imageDSC07241 by ckinhoe, on Flickr


Latest collection for camera blush.gif

user posted imageLens by ckinhoe, on Flickr
gin&tonic
post Nov 18 2015, 09:22 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 18 2015, 08:38 PM)
Random test shot after getting FE 16-35.
user posted imageDSC07241 by ckinhoe, on Flickr
Latest collection for camera blush.gif

user posted imageLens by ckinhoe, on Flickr
*
Nice. smile.gif
adlirazali
post Nov 18 2015, 10:23 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 18 2015, 07:52 PM)
I do not own the FE55 or really had it for more than 5 minutes so I really can't tell. Out of my budget laugh.gif

But the FE55 will be kinda hard to be used for everyday stuff, kinda too tight.
*
true that. FE28F20 seems more practical i guess hmm.gif

QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 18 2015, 08:38 PM)
Random test shot after getting FE 16-35.
user posted imageDSC07241 by ckinhoe, on Flickr
Latest collection for camera blush.gif

user posted imageLens by ckinhoe, on Flickr
*
nice glass collection. mind telling me, if u were to choose one, would it be 55mm or 28mm?
hensky
post Nov 19 2015, 02:30 PM

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QUOTE(adlirazali @ Nov 18 2015, 10:23 PM)
true that. FE28F20 seems more practical i guess  hmm.gif
nice glass collection. mind telling me, if u were to choose one, would it be 55mm or 28mm?
*
For me, it would be the 28mm, cheap and nice laugh.gif
if you got budget, can consider the batis 2/25mm

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 19 2015, 02:44 PM
adlirazali
post Nov 19 2015, 04:04 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 19 2015, 02:30 PM)
For me, it would be the 28mm, cheap and nice  laugh.gif
if you got budget, can consider the batis 2/25mm
*
it costed me 2 kidneys for a7ii + 55mm. wait till i grow another pair then can afford batis sweat.gif
in malaysia batis 2/25mm already for sale?
eligible
post Nov 19 2015, 04:28 PM

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user posted imageView from Marina Bay Sand #singapore by ericChoon, on Flickr

This post has been edited by eligible: Nov 19 2015, 05:01 PM
hensky
post Nov 19 2015, 04:31 PM

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QUOTE(adlirazali @ Nov 19 2015, 04:04 PM)
it costed me 2 kidneys for a7ii + 55mm. wait till i grow another pair then can afford batis  sweat.gif
in malaysia batis 2/25mm already for sale?
*
yes, price similar to FE 16-35.
http://shashinki.com/shop/zeiss-batis-25mm...ia-p-25545.html

if you want to expand your lens collection, i would suggest
i) FE 16-35 (get this first, it covers from ultra wide to street shooting, works best from 16mm to 24mm)
ii) FE 70-200

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 19 2015, 04:31 PM
hensky
post Nov 19 2015, 04:33 PM

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QUOTE(eligible @ Nov 19 2015, 04:28 PM)
<a data-flickr-embed="true"  href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ericcklphotoalbum/23121920062/in/dateposted-public/" title="View from Marina Bay Sand #singapore"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/617/23121920062_24784a0ce6_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="View from Marina Bay Sand #singapore"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
*
hi, you should copy the BBcode version yo.

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 19 2015, 05:15 PM
eligible
post Nov 19 2015, 05:09 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 19 2015, 04:33 PM)
hi, you should copy the BBcode version yo.
thanks mate icon_rolleyes.gif
Silverfire
post Nov 19 2015, 06:54 PM

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QUOTE(adlirazali @ Nov 19 2015, 04:04 PM)
it costed me 2 kidneys for a7ii + 55mm. wait till i grow another pair then can afford batis  sweat.gif
in malaysia batis 2/25mm already for sale?
*
Batis stock very limited worldwide... Probably by the time your kidneys grow back they will have some stock icon_idea.gif

Loxia 50
user posted imageDSC01349-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

versus

FE28F20
user posted imageDSC00834-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC00791-2hd by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC00356-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

This post has been edited by Silverfire: Nov 19 2015, 06:59 PM
asrul
post Nov 19 2015, 07:44 PM

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post Nov 19 2015, 08:23 PM

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user posted imageAutumn 1 by Zenyu Loh, on Flickr

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user posted imageAutumn 3 by Zenyu Loh, on Flickr
adlirazali
post Nov 19 2015, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 19 2015, 04:31 PM)
yes, price similar to FE 16-35.
http://shashinki.com/shop/zeiss-batis-25mm...ia-p-25545.html

if you want to expand your lens collection, i would suggest
i) FE 16-35 (get this first, it covers from ultra wide to street shooting, works best from 16mm to 24mm)
ii) FE 70-200
*
thx for the suggestion. just read abt the amazing 16-35mm, so sad i cant afford it cry.gif


QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 19 2015, 06:54 PM)
Batis stock very limited worldwide... Probably by the time your kidneys grow back they will have some stock icon_idea.gif

Loxia 50
user posted imageDSC01349-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

versus

FE28F20
user posted imageDSC00834-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC00791-2hd by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC00356-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
*
dig ur works of art, sir. thanks for the image samples thumbup.gif
Zephyr_Mage
post Nov 19 2015, 11:02 PM

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Tried to get the SEL1670Z from Sony Store and was told that it was out of stock. Damn it.
beplouis76
post Nov 20 2015, 01:36 AM

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Recommendation for wide angle and macro lens for a6000 smile.gif
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post Nov 20 2015, 02:07 AM

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Awesome toning Silverfire, somehow you made me realise A7 colors not so dead afterall, i gave up on figuring out how to get the picture style color right.

It's just so dead the A7 colors.
Eiraku
post Nov 20 2015, 02:55 AM

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QUOTE(beplouis76 @ Nov 20 2015, 01:36 AM)
Recommendation for wide angle and macro lens for a6000 smile.gif
*
WA:
1) Cheap and Wide = SEL16 + ECU1. Unfortunately hard to get nowadays and optically so-so only, but this is the cheapest way to get to 12mm WITH AF.

2) Cheap but not so Wide = Sigma 19mm. Unfortunately not as wide, slightly muted contrast and Sigma-ish (read: slightly cooler) colours. Otherwise very good, though prices have gone up lately.

3) Sharp and Wide but MF = Samyang 12mm NCS (not the FF fisheye). Unfortunately MF only... no AF. But it's small and sharp like nuts. But... you know... no AF.

4) Sharp, wide and AF = SEL1018. Unfortunately F4 only... and expensive. Fortunately the only APSC lens usable (kinda sorta... only 12-18 usable) with Full Frame (A7 series) cameras, so good investment if going to FF later.

5) Sharp, wide, fast, Zeiss AND AF = Zeiss Touit 12mm. Unfortunately a Zeiss, so one of THESE gets you either (4 and 1/2) Sigmas or (2 and 1/2) Samyangs for the price. In other words, kidney-pawning. Also, noisy AF motor.

Macro:

1) Cheap and fun = SEL30M. Unfortunately useless for bugs because of very, very close Minimum Focus Distance. Also, edge sharpness is only about average and f/4 isn't really that bright.


2) Big and expensive but peerless at what it does = FE90M. Unfortunately, not build for small crop sensor so the lens is relatively HUGE. Otherwise the king of the macro heap (plus it's perfect for portraits too).

Well... IMHO anyway.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 20 2015, 09:26 AM
NLCH880215
post Nov 20 2015, 07:54 AM

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asrul
post Nov 20 2015, 08:10 AM

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QUOTE(Zephyr_Mage @ Nov 19 2015, 11:02 PM)
Tried to get the SEL1670Z from Sony Store and was told that it was out of stock. Damn it.
*
i think i bought the last one tongue.gif
vincentlee90
post Nov 20 2015, 08:45 AM

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QUOTE(beplouis76 @ Nov 20 2015, 01:36 AM)
Recommendation for wide angle and macro lens for a6000 smile.gif
*
QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 20 2015, 02:55 AM)
WA:
1) Cheap and Wide = SEL16 + ECU1. Unfortunately hard to get nowadays and optically so-so only, but this is the cheapest way to get to 12mm WITH AF.

2) Cheap but not so Wide = Sigma 19mm. Unfortunately not as wide, slightly muted contrast and Sigma-ish (read: slightly cooler) colours. Otherwise very good, though prices have gone up lately.

3) Sharp and Wide but MF = Samyang 12mm NCS (not the FF fisheye). Unfortunately MF only... no AF. But it's small and sharp like nuts. But... you know... no AF.

4) Sharp, wide and AF = SEL1018. Unfortunately F4 only... and expensive. Fortunately the only APSC lens usable (kinda sorta... only 12-18 usable) with Full Frame (A7 series) cameras, so good investment if going to FF later.

5) Sharp, wide, fast, Zeiss AND AF = Zeiss Touit 12mm. Unfortunately a Zeiss, so one of THESE gets you either (4 and 1/2) Sigmas or (2 and 1/2) Samyangs for the price. In other words, kidney-pawning.

Macro:

1) Cheap and fun = SEL30M. Unfortunately useless for bugs because of very, very close Minimum Focus Distance. Also, edge sharpness is only about average and f/4 isn't really that bright.
2 Big and expensive but peerless at what it does = FE90M
Unfortunately, not build for small crop sensor so the lens is relatively HUGE. Otherwise the king of the macro crop.

Well... IMHO anyway.
*
there's another macro lenses - Zeiss Touit 50mm M2.8
since this macro lenses is made from Zeiss, optical quality quite good as well. price is RM3500-RM3600 depends on dealer. however not all dealer carry this high quality Zeiss lenses

This post has been edited by vincentlee90: Nov 20 2015, 12:39 PM
Eiraku
post Nov 20 2015, 09:15 AM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 20 2015, 08:10 AM)
i think i bought the last one  tongue.gif
*
Did you check for decentring (one corner being blur more than the other 4)? The SEP1670Z is sorta famous for decentring.

vincentlee90 Yeah I forgot that one. Thanks.

3) Sharp, Zeiss and expensive = Touit 50M. Judging from the 12 and 32 Touits, optical quality should be top notch. Unfortunately, also judging from the other Touits, it should have a very loud AF motor (compared to Sony and Sigma at least). Plus for the price, you would prolly be better off with the SEL90M - unless you particularly like the 50mm focal length on APSC (75mm on FF).

Also there's the SEL18200LE (and the original non-LE), SEL18105G and SEL1670Z if you don't mind zooms, but they don't really go that wide (nor could any of them do decent macro either) so I didn't include them in the comparo.

Similarly the SEL24Z, which is kinda wide and can do kinda macro as well (it goes up to 1:4... aka can take macro up to 1/4 life size). Kinda, but not particularly wide nor macro lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 20 2015, 09:55 AM
ahpingko
post Nov 20 2015, 10:24 AM

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spam my old photo tongue.gif :

user posted image
Souk Al Bahar
Luxury shopping mall beside the world largest mall, Dubai Mall.

see more here:

Amazing Dubai 2013

This post has been edited by ahpingko: Nov 20 2015, 10:25 AM
beplouis76
post Nov 20 2015, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 20 2015, 02:55 AM)
WA:
1) Cheap and Wide = SEL16 + ECU1. Unfortunately hard to get nowadays and optically so-so only, but this is the cheapest way to get to 12mm WITH AF.

2) Cheap but not so Wide = Sigma 19mm. Unfortunately not as wide, slightly muted contrast and Sigma-ish (read: slightly cooler) colours. Otherwise very good, though prices have gone up lately.

3) Sharp and Wide but MF = Samyang 12mm NCS (not the FF fisheye). Unfortunately MF only... no AF. But it's small and sharp like nuts. But... you know... no AF.

4) Sharp, wide and AF = SEL1018. Unfortunately F4 only... and expensive. Fortunately the only APSC lens usable (kinda sorta... only 12-18 usable) with Full Frame (A7 series) cameras, so good investment if going to FF later.

5) Sharp, wide, fast, Zeiss AND AF = Zeiss Touit 12mm. Unfortunately a Zeiss, so one of THESE gets you either (4 and 1/2) Sigmas or (2 and 1/2) Samyangs for the price. In other words, kidney-pawning. Also, noisy AF motor.

Macro:

1) Cheap and fun = SEL30M. Unfortunately useless for bugs because of very, very close Minimum Focus Distance. Also, edge sharpness is only about average and f/4 isn't really that bright.
2) Big and expensive but peerless at what it does = FE90M. Unfortunately, not build for small crop sensor so the lens is relatively HUGE. Otherwise the king of the macro heap (plus it's perfect for portraits too).

Well... IMHO anyway.
*
Thank you so much for the help. I am looking at the Samyang 12mm... for macro... I think i can leave a side first.. 30mm is too wide for a macro... lol
gin&tonic
post Nov 20 2015, 12:46 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 20 2015, 08:10 AM)
i think i bought the last one  tongue.gif
*
How much bro? smile.gif
Leekarsing
post Nov 20 2015, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(vincentlee90 @ Nov 20 2015, 08:45 AM)
there's another macro lenses - Zeiss Touit 50mm M2.8
since this macro lenses is made from Zeiss, optical quality quite good as well. price is RM3500-RM3600 depends on dealer. however not all dealer carry this high quality Zeiss lenses
*
http://www.ylcamera.com.my/collections/len...cts/cz-2030-680

as far i know YL got sell this lenses
asrul
post Nov 20 2015, 01:36 PM

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QUOTE(gin&tonic @ Nov 20 2015, 12:46 PM)
How much bro?  smile.gif
*
rm2599
gin&tonic
post Nov 20 2015, 01:57 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 20 2015, 01:36 PM)
rm2599
*
Nice buy. smile.gif Pls share yr pics. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by gin&tonic: Nov 20 2015, 02:03 PM
Zephyr_Mage
post Nov 20 2015, 02:09 PM

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Where else can I get the SEL1670Z for a good price? I can only find around 3k. sad.gif
asrul
post Nov 20 2015, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(gin&tonic @ Nov 20 2015, 01:57 PM)
Nice buy.  smile.gif Pls share yr pics.  biggrin.gif
*
really busy this week until end of month.
havent got time to try yet


QUOTE(Zephyr_Mage @ Nov 20 2015, 02:09 PM)
Where else can I get the SEL1670Z for a good price? I can only find around 3k. sad.gif
*
IINM can go to sony curve, talk to the malay lady promoter, said that u really want to buy, can pay first at promotional price and she will help you to order from HQ
Eiraku
post Nov 20 2015, 02:25 PM

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The Samyang is nice... but can be hard work to use, depending on how comfortable you are with MF.

Here's a new shot from my Samyang:

user posted imageIn the Kampung by Eirakkun, on Flickr

Note the CA-fest on top of the electricity pole. However that's prolly worst-case already (dark with bright sky behind), and it's actually quite respectable all things considered, and easily correctable in LR if you want to.

As for the 30mm, it's actually quite good, unless you're doing bug pictures. For normal static macro it's fun getting pics with some extra context around it, like the flower photo I posted a few pages back.

Here's a link if you missed it: https://flic.kr/p/zCzsDD

But yeah, the front element of the lens was literally centimetres from the flower lol. Totally not for bug macro of course.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 20 2015, 02:31 PM
bdrc
post Nov 20 2015, 02:41 PM

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Some new spams:

user posted imageShirakiin Ririchiyo by RICO Lee, on Flickr

user posted imageParadise by RICO Lee, on Flickr

user posted imageCosmart by RICO Lee, on Flickr
vincentlee90
post Nov 20 2015, 07:58 PM

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QUOTE(Zephyr_Mage @ Nov 20 2015, 02:09 PM)
Where else can I get the SEL1670Z for a good price? I can only find around 3k. sad.gif
*
Sony Store KLCC having promotion, and selling SEL1670Z with RM2599. quite a good price at this moment thumbup.gif
domo_kun
post Nov 20 2015, 08:51 PM

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No tripod. Kit lens. unsure.gif


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domo_kun
post Nov 20 2015, 09:00 PM

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No tripod. Sammy 12mm/f2.8 icon_rolleyes.gif


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Silverfire
post Nov 20 2015, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(adlirazali @ Nov 19 2015, 09:40 PM)
thx for the suggestion. just read abt the amazing 16-35mm, so sad i cant afford it  cry.gif
dig ur works of art, sir. thanks for the image samples  thumbup.gif
*
Thanks man, glad you like my photos biggrin.gif

QUOTE(ClericKilla @ Nov 20 2015, 02:07 AM)
Awesome toning Silverfire, somehow you made me realise A7 colors not so dead afterall, i gave up on figuring out how to get the picture style color right.

It's just so dead the A7 colors.
*
Try using VSCO filters biggrin.gif You can do wonders with those! drool.gif

More of my works shot with the FE28F20 tongue.gif

RAW-processed
user posted imageDSC00785-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

JPG-processed
user posted imageDSC00115-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

JPG-processed
user posted imageDSC00229-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

JPG-processed
user posted imageDSC00143-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

This post has been edited by Silverfire: Nov 20 2015, 10:26 PM
khairullz
post Nov 21 2015, 07:48 AM

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hi guys

do u know any shop that selling wide lens fo sony a6000? if possible looking rm1500 and below , tight budget tongue.gif

2nd hand also can
nk3371
post Nov 21 2015, 09:48 AM

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NTBD shot during one morning. tongue.gif
user posted image

A6000 | SEL35F18

Kinda missed my ex-SEL50F18 bokehness. Will re-grab one in the future for sure. biggrin.gif

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post Nov 21 2015, 09:59 AM

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Testing Sel1670z with nex5t.
IazHes
post Nov 21 2015, 11:45 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 20 2015, 02:55 AM)
WA:
1) Cheap and Wide = SEL16 + ECU1. Unfortunately hard to get nowadays and optically so-so only, but this is the cheapest way to get to 12mm WITH AF.

2) Cheap but not so Wide = Sigma 19mm. Unfortunately not as wide, slightly muted contrast and Sigma-ish (read: slightly cooler) colours. Otherwise very good, though prices have gone up lately.

3) Sharp and Wide but MF = Samyang 12mm NCS (not the FF fisheye). Unfortunately MF only... no AF. But it's small and sharp like nuts. But... you know... no AF.

4) Sharp, wide and AF = SEL1018. Unfortunately F4 only... and expensive. Fortunately the only APSC lens usable (kinda sorta... only 12-18 usable) with Full Frame (A7 series) cameras, so good investment if going to FF later.

5) Sharp, wide, fast, Zeiss AND AF = Zeiss Touit 12mm. Unfortunately a Zeiss, so one of THESE gets you either (4 and 1/2) Sigmas or (2 and 1/2) Samyangs for the price. In other words, kidney-pawning. Also, noisy AF motor.

Macro:

1) Cheap and fun = SEL30M. Unfortunately useless for bugs because of very, very close Minimum Focus Distance. Also, edge sharpness is only about average and f/4 isn't really that bright.
2) Big and expensive but peerless at what it does = FE90M. Unfortunately, not build for small crop sensor so the lens is relatively HUGE. Otherwise the king of the macro heap (plus it's perfect for portraits too).

Well... IMHO anyway.
*
SEL1018F4 vs Samyang 12mm NCS ?

SEL20f28 can combo with ECU1 ?
Eiraku
post Nov 21 2015, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(IazHes @ Nov 21 2015, 11:45 AM)
SEL1018F4 vs Samyang 12mm NCS ?

SEL20f28 can combo with ECU1 ?
*
1018 vs Samyang 12: Can't answer this question fully cause I'm actually wondering too lol. Theoretically, the Samyang is sharper (and faster cause f/2) but AF, OSS and the zoom range kinda balances that out in normal (read: non-starfield) photography. It all boils down to what you can afford lol but the 1018 is far, far more flexible for sure.

Hence I'm actually hunting for a 1018 on the cheap myself lol.

SEL20 + ECU1: Of course. I have this combo and use it for snapshots, but at 15mm it isn't as wide as the Samyang, and neither is it as good optically. I generally use it more on my less resolution-intensive NEX5T.

khairullz Cheapest ultrawide for A6000 should be between the SEL16 + ECU1 combo (AF, less sharp) and the Samyang 12 (no AF, a lot sharper), both between 1k-1.5k.

If you don't mind it being less wide, there's also the Sigma 19mm that's below 1k but... it's just 19mm (a very good one though). Might or might not be wide enough on the A6000 - for me I used it more as a streeting lens back when I used to have it (now using the SEL20).

In the KL area you can try Photo Zaloon or YL Camera (Pudu Plaza) or YL Camera PJ (Jaya33). They might not have stock though, so do call first to confirm.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 21 2015, 04:02 PM
IwanAGP
post Nov 21 2015, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 21 2015, 02:38 PM)
1018 vs Samyang 12: Can't answer this question fully cause I'm actually wondering too lol. Theoretically, the Samyang is sharper (and faster cause f/2) but AF, OSS and the zoom range kinda balances that out in normal (read: non-starfield) photography. It all boils down to what you can afford lol but the 1018 is far, far more flexible for sure.

Hence I'm actually hunting for a 1018 on the cheap myself lol.

SEL20 + ECU1: Of course. I have this combo and use it for snapshots, but at 15mm it isn't as wide as the Samyang, and neither is it as good optically. I generally use it more on my less resolution-intensive NEX5T.

khairullz Cheapest ultrawide for A6000 should be between the SEL16 + ECU1 combo (AF, less sharp) and the Samyang 12 (no AF, a lot sharper), both between 1k-1.5k.

If you don't mind it being less wide, there's also the Sigma 19mm that's below 1k but... it's just 19mm (a very good one though). Might or might not be wide enough on the A6000 - for me I used it more as a streeting lens back when I used to have it (now using the SEL20).

In the KL area you can try Photo Zaloon or YL Camera (Pudu Plaza) or YL Camera PJ (Jaya33). They might not have stock though, so do call first to confirm.
*
Erm... SEL20 cannot be 15mm what... 20mm * 1.5 * 0.75 = 22.5mm. How you get 15mm hmm.gif
vincentlee90
post Nov 21 2015, 10:02 PM

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QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 21 2015, 09:00 PM)
Erm... SEL20 cannot be 15mm what... 20mm * 1.5 * 0.75 = 22.5mm. How you get 15mm hmm.gif
*
bro, i believe he didn't add on the explaination
hensky
post Nov 22 2015, 12:34 AM

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FE55 sample, F1.8

user posted imageDSC07327 by ckinhoe, on Flickr
Eiraku
post Nov 22 2015, 01:01 AM

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QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 21 2015, 09:00 PM)
Erm... SEL20 cannot be 15mm what... 20mm * 1.5 * 0.75 = 22.5mm. How you get 15mm hmm.gif
*
Err... just do 20 * 0.75... what do you get? 15mm on APSC. Not FF. I didn't convert SEL20 to FF equivalent either as we're talking about APSC lenses.

If we were talking in FF terms than the SEL20 has a 30mm equivalent Angle if View and the ECU1 takes it to 22.5mm, as you have accurately shown.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 22 2015, 01:07 AM
kmarc
post Nov 22 2015, 09:04 AM

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Need some advice. I have decided to upgrade my Sony a550 but undecided on what to upgrade to. Thinking of these few ones after doing some research:

1) a7s
- low-light capabilities & great video (no need 4k yet)
- silent shutter mode
- 12 megapixel only (downgrade from a550 14MP?), but I seldom process or crop my photos
- Damn expensive (but not a big problem)

2) a7ii
- higher megapixel and better photos than a7s
- Noisy shutter
- Cheaper

3) RX100 mark iv
- Compact and convenient but not full-frame sensor (quality of photos not that good?)
- waste my existing F58 flash (planning to use on a7s/a7ii)

4) Any other alternatives?

My photos are mainly family photos but half the time need low-light capabilities e.g. dim-lit restaurant, fluorescent/tungsten lighting etc.

For lens, thinking of the FE24-70z as I usually take portraits, half-body and also scenery with people in it.

Don't fire me for buying full-frame just to take family photos. icon_rolleyes.gif I consider these as treasures and memories that cannot be replaced. nod.gif Kindly advise. Thx. notworthy.gif


vincentlee90
post Nov 22 2015, 10:48 AM

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QUOTE(kmarc @ Nov 22 2015, 09:04 AM)
Need some advice. I have decided to upgrade my Sony a550 but undecided on what to upgrade to. Thinking of these few ones after doing some research:

1) a7s
- low-light capabilities & great video (no need 4k yet)
- silent shutter mode
- 12 megapixel only (downgrade from a550 14MP?), but I seldom process or crop my photos
- Damn expensive (but not a big problem)

2) a7ii
- higher megapixel and better photos than a7s
- Noisy shutter
- Cheaper

3) RX100 mark iv
- Compact and convenient but not full-frame sensor (quality of photos not that good?)
- waste my existing F58 flash (planning to use on a7s/a7ii)

4) Any other alternatives?

My photos are mainly family photos but half the time need low-light capabilities e.g. dim-lit restaurant, fluorescent/tungsten lighting etc.

For lens, thinking of the FE24-70z as I usually take portraits, half-body and also scenery with people in it.

Don't fire me for buying full-frame just to take family photos.  icon_rolleyes.gif I consider these as treasures and memories that cannot be replaced.  nod.gif Kindly advise. Thx.  notworthy.gif
*
in this case, there's alternative APS-C camera would be ur good choice

A6000
-24MP APS-C CMOS sesor
-great AF performance
-shutter release quieter than normal DSLR
-hotshoe for accessory expansion
kmarc
post Nov 22 2015, 01:16 PM

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QUOTE(vincentlee90 @ Nov 22 2015, 10:48 AM)
in this case, there's alternative APS-C camera would be ur good choice

A6000
-24MP APS-C CMOS sesor
-great AF performance
-shutter release quieter than normal DSLR
-hotshoe for accessory expansion
*
Thx but I want something better. smile.gif
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post Nov 22 2015, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(kmarc @ Nov 22 2015, 01:16 PM)
Thx but I want something better.  smile.gif
*
The A6000 is a good cam, but if you're all set to go FF, than my choice is the A7ii.

While it lacks silent shutter (for now, Sony might add it in a firmware update in the future.... emphasis on "might") it is more current and already Sony plans to update the firmware for full AF point compatibility with the LE-EA3/Canon AF adapters + uncompressed RAW.

The only reason to get the older A7S over it is if you really, really need the phenomenal ISO performance and/or silent shutter.

And skip the 2470Z. It's really not THAT much better than the FF kittens. Wait for an update.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 22 2015, 03:00 PM
kmarc
post Nov 22 2015, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 22 2015, 02:58 PM)
The A6000 is a good cam, but if you're all set to go FF, than my choice is the A7ii.

While it lacks silent shutter (for now, Sony might add it in a firmware update in the future.... emphasis on "might") it is more current and already Sony plans to update the firmware for full AF point compatibility with the LE-EA3/Canon AF adapters + uncompressed RAW.

The only reason to get the older A7S over it is if you really, really need the phenomenal ISO performance and/or silent shutter.

And skip the 2470Z. It's really not THAT much better than the FF kittens. Wait for an update.
*
Thx. That's what I'm thinking too, especially when the A7ii has more features especially the 5-axis stabilizer. However, on occasions, do need some low-light capabilities. Can the a7ii handle normal dimlit places e.g. restaurants?

The salesperson I talked to told me not to get kitlens or normal lens for such a good camera, better go for something better like 2470z. As I don't have any FF lenses (only have tamron 1750 and sony 50f1.8), what do you recommend? As mentioned, my pictures are mostly on people (portrait and half-body) although I need scenery (with people inside) sometimes. Prefer one lens setup..... if possible.... smile.gif. Or if two lenses, which ones should I go for?

This post has been edited by kmarc: Nov 22 2015, 03:42 PM
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post Nov 22 2015, 03:54 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 20 2015, 10:11 PM)
Thanks man, glad you like my photos biggrin.gif
Try using VSCO filters biggrin.gif You can do wonders with those! drool.gif

More of my works shot with the FE28F20 tongue.gif
I dont know why your colors are supper popping! Awesome.
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QUOTE(kmarc @ Nov 22 2015, 03:37 PM)
Thx. That's what I'm thinking too, especially when the A7ii has more features especially the 5-axis stabilizer. However, on occasions, do need some low-light capabilities. Can the a7ii handle normal dimlit places e.g. restaurants?

The salesperson I talked to told me not to get kitlens or normal lens for such a good camera, better go for something better like 2470z. As I don't have any FF lenses (only have tamron 1750 and sony 50f1.8), what do you recommend? As mentioned, my pictures are mostly on people (portrait and half-body) although I need scenery (with people inside) sometimes. Prefer one lens setup..... if possible....  smile.gif. Or if two lenses, which ones should I go for?
*
Lol. The kit 2870 is like I said, not much worse then the 2470Z (and in reverse, the 2470 isn't much better), so it's totally up to you if you think the constant f/4 (and marginal optical improvement) is worth the considerable cost difference.

Personally I think the 1635Z is a much better choice if you want a zoom - but I'm more a wide kinda guy. Plus it's plenty expensive.

Looking at your needs though, I'd say start with the FE28. It's cheap, sharp and fast (f/2) - and perfect for indoors group family portraits, even less adequately lighted ones. Then, if you can afford it, get the FE55 as well for individual people shots and you're all set.

For optimal headshot portraits the 55 is a bit short, but considering the next best thing is either uber expensive (the Batis 85) or just a rumor (the yet to be seen Sony FE85), we'll have to make do. For head-shoulders it should be perfect though.

Unfortunately being used to the 1750 would mean you're gonna have to practice more feet-zooming and lens switching - otherwise they're both marvelous lenses and should serve you well indoors or out.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 22 2015, 08:18 PM
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post Nov 22 2015, 08:51 PM

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QUOTE(kmarc @ Nov 22 2015, 03:37 PM)
Thx. That's what I'm thinking too, especially when the A7ii has more features especially the 5-axis stabilizer. However, on occasions, do need some low-light capabilities. Can the a7ii handle normal dimlit places e.g. restaurants?

The salesperson I talked to told me not to get kitlens or normal lens for such a good camera, better go for something better like 2470z. As I don't have any FF lenses (only have tamron 1750 and sony 50f1.8), what do you recommend? As mentioned, my pictures are mostly on people (portrait and half-body) although I need scenery (with people inside) sometimes. Prefer one lens setup..... if possible....  smile.gif. Or if two lenses, which ones should I go for?
*
The A7M2 is not a great camera to focus under dim light. You have to switch on the AF Illuminator to help, also switching over to Center focus will also help. Just shot a birthday party yesterday night which required me to shoot 1/100 F2 ISO3200 + flash. Took about 2 seconds to focus before being able to shoot (I was using Flexible spot Small to focus at that time), when I got home I experimented with Center focus and it was considerably faster and more accurate which takes about 1 second.

QUOTE(ClericKilla @ Nov 22 2015, 03:54 PM)
I dont know why your colors are supper popping! Awesome.
*
Thanks notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
kmarc
post Nov 22 2015, 11:02 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 22 2015, 08:14 PM)
Lol. The kit 2870 is like I said, not much worse then the 2470Z (and in reverse, the 2470 isn't much better), so it's totally up to you if you think the constant f/4 (and marginal optical improvement) is worth the considerable cost difference.

Personally I think the 1635Z is a much better choice if you want a zoom - but I'm more a wide kinda guy. Plus it's plenty expensive.

Looking at your needs though, I'd say start with the FE28. It's cheap, sharp and fast (f/2) - and perfect for indoors group family portraits, even less adequately lighted ones. Then, if you can afford it, get the FE55 as well for individual people shots and you're all set.

For optimal headshot portraits the 55 is a bit short, but considering the next best thing is either uber expensive (the Batis 85) or just a rumor (the yet to be seen Sony FE85), we'll have to make do. For head-shoulders it should be perfect though.

Unfortunately being used to the 1750 would mean you're gonna have to practice more feet-zooming and lens switching - otherwise they're both marvelous lenses and should serve you well indoors or out.
*
Gosh! A lot to digest. Thx for all the advices. I guess I cannot run away from the fact that if I want very good photos, I have to use primes instead of zoom lenses. I have always prefer zoom lenses when I go travelling as feet-zooming in public is not my style. More of a point-and-shoot guy.... biggrin.gif

I did more research and it looks like I will probably settle for a7ii instead of a7s. One main reason is the image stabilizers on the a7ii. I would need that as my shots are mostly hand-held. Didn't realized that most FE lenses do not come with OSS.

For lenses, the FE55 is tempting and i will probably get that. For wider lenses, haven't decided whether I should just go for the kitlens 2870 or the FE28 like what you recommended. Will see how it goes......

QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 22 2015, 08:51 PM)
The A7M2 is not a great camera to focus under dim light. You have to switch on the AF Illuminator to help, also switching over to Center focus will also help. Just shot a birthday party yesterday night which required me to shoot 1/100 F2 ISO3200 + flash. Took about 2 seconds to focus before being able to shoot (I was using Flexible spot Small to focus at that time), when I got home I experimented with Center focus and it was considerably faster and more accurate which takes about 1 second.

*
I see. Thx for the tip. Will probably go for the a7ii..... there goes my low-light expectations....

This post has been edited by kmarc: Nov 22 2015, 11:09 PM
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post Nov 23 2015, 05:21 AM

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QUOTE(kmarc @ Nov 22 2015, 11:02 PM)
Gosh! A lot to digest. Thx for all the advices. I guess I cannot run away from the fact that if I want very good photos, I have to use primes instead of zoom lenses. I have always prefer zoom lenses when I go travelling as feet-zooming in public is not my style. More of a point-and-shoot guy....  biggrin.gif

I did more research and it looks like I will probably settle for a7ii instead of a7s. One main reason is the image stabilizers on the a7ii. I would need that as my shots are mostly hand-held. Didn't realized that most FE lenses do not come with OSS.

For lenses, the FE55 is tempting and i will probably get that. For wider lenses, haven't decided whether I should just go for the kitlens 2870 or the FE28 like what you recommended. Will see how it goes......
I see. Thx for the tip. Will probably go for the a7ii..... there goes my low-light expectations....
*
To be fair I was using a 3rd party Canon flash on it, so the flash's AF assist doesn't work icon_rolleyes.gif

1 second AF is pretty good actually thumbup.gif
kmarc
post Nov 23 2015, 08:55 AM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 23 2015, 05:21 AM)
To be fair I was using a 3rd party Canon flash on it, so the flash's AF assist doesn't work icon_rolleyes.gif

1 second AF is pretty good actually thumbup.gif
*
I see. I'm planning to use my existing F58am flash where I need to buy the hotshoe adapter. Hope the AF assist works.

Now I'm deciding on whether to get the 35F28z or 28F20. Since I'm so used to APS-C format, I guess 35F28z is equivalent to 23mm (crop factor 1.5) on APS-C and 28F20 is equivalent to 18.6mm on APC-C. Am I correct? I don't have any lenses to test and the shop doesn't provide any either. Using my tamron 17-50 to roughly test the view. From my test, it seems that the 35F28z would be a bit too narrow for say, half-body shots in close quarters like sitting together on a table in a restaurant right? Or taking a 2 or 3 person shot in close quarters?

Yes, I do understand you need to feet-zoom but sometimes I do not want to intrude into other people's space especially in closed quarters...... any advices on whether I should get the 35 or 28mm?

Alternatively, was thinking of getting the a7ii that comes with it's kitlens (have to confirm this with the shop) then get both 55F and 28F...... rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by kmarc: Nov 23 2015, 08:57 AM
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post Nov 23 2015, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(kmarc @ Nov 23 2015, 08:55 AM)
I see. I'm planning to use my existing F58am flash where I need to buy the hotshoe adapter. Hope the AF assist works.

Now I'm deciding on whether to get the 35F28z or 28F20. Since I'm so used to APS-C format, I guess 35F28z is equivalent to 23mm (crop factor 1.5) on APS-C and 28F20 is equivalent to 18.6mm on APC-C. Am I correct? I don't have any lenses to test and the shop doesn't provide any either. Using my tamron 17-50 to roughly test the view. From my test, it seems that the 35F28z would be a bit too narrow for say, half-body shots in close quarters like sitting together on a table in a restaurant right? Or taking a 2 or 3 person shot in close quarters?

Yes, I do understand you need to feet-zoom but sometimes I do not want to intrude into other people's space especially in closed quarters...... any advices on whether I should get the 35 or 28mm?

Alternatively, was thinking of getting the a7ii that comes with it's kitlens (have to confirm this with the shop) then get both 55F and 28F......  rclxub.gif
*
Where are you located? If in KL area do make your way to Sony at The Curve or KLCC and you can test whatever you want, just ask the folks there if your desired camera + lens combo isn't available.

If you're not, err... try your nearest Sony Center? They might not be as forthcoming as Curve or KLCC though, as they might not be directly under Sony.

And yes, while the FE35 is wide enough for most things, close quarters group shots isn't one of them. That's why I recommended the FE28. Plus the faster f/2 helps (slightly) in the dimmer lighting you often get indoors.

If you need to get closer wihout intruding into people's space, just switch to the 55.

If you do get the 28/55 combo, getting the kit might be a tad wasteful as it overlaps with your primes. That money could be better spent on getting a proper small flash for your A7 (the HVL-F32M). While you do have a flash already, the 58 is far too big for the A7ii, especially with the APDMAA adapter (it might just strain the adapter - which is just mostly plastic after all).

On the other hand, being able to zoom is often very, very helpful in an "event" type shoot - so it's entirely up for debate.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 23 2015, 12:05 PM
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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 23 2015, 11:58 AM)
Where are you located? If in KL area do make your way to Sony at The Curve or KLCC and you can test whatever you want, just ask the folks there if your desired camera + lens combo isn't available.

If you're not, err... try your nearest Sony Center? They might not be as forthcoming as Curve or KLCC though, as they might not be directly under Sony.

And yes, while the FE35 is wide enough for most things, close quarters group shots isn't one of them. That's why I recommended the FE28. Plus the faster f/2 helps (slightly) in the dimmer lighting you often get indoors.

If you need to get closer wihout intruding into people's space, just switch to the 55.

If you do get the 28/55 combo, getting the kit might be a tad wasteful as it overlaps with your primes. That money could be better spent on getting a proper small flash for your A7 (the HVL-F32M). While you do have a flash already, the 58 is far too big for the A7ii, especially with the APDMAA adapter (it might just strain the adapter - which is just mostly plastic after all).

On the other hand, being able to zoom is often very, very helpful in an "event" type shoot - so it's entirely up for debate.
*
Thx a lot for the info. Really helps me decide.

I'm in Sibu and the Sony centre here don't have any lens testing sad.gif

I just went there to ask about a7ii. Apparently don't come with kitlens, which itself cost rm 1999!!!! In garage sales, I saw a7ii with 2870 for something like rm800 extra. And they don't have the kitlens, 2870, fe55 or fe28 in stock!!!!

Thx for the advise on flash too. Think I will take you advise and get the smaller flash.

Ok, at the moment, I think it will be a7ii with 28f2 and 55f1.8 with the smaller flash.
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post Nov 23 2015, 01:53 PM

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QUOTE(kmarc @ Nov 23 2015, 12:25 PM)
Thx a lot for the info. Really helps me decide.

I'm in Sibu and the Sony centre here don't have any lens testing sad.gif

I just went there to ask about a7ii. Apparently don't come with kitlens, which itself cost rm 1999!!!! In garage sales, I saw a7ii with 2870 for something like rm800 extra. And they don't have the kitlens, 2870, fe55 or fe28 in stock!!!!

Thx for the advise on flash too. Think I will take you advise and get the smaller flash.

Ok, at the moment, I think it will be a7ii with 28f2 and 55f1.8 with the smaller flash.
*
Nissin i40 small flash is good smile.gif
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post Nov 23 2015, 01:54 PM

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i see my friend combo NEX 6 with FE28f20, as for little wide and low light photography
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post Nov 23 2015, 01:58 PM

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Guys, my NEX-5 now can't AF-C. It'll become non stop AF. But when I changed to AF-S, it'll lock straightaway..

Tested with few lenses. All behaving the same..
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post Nov 23 2015, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 23 2015, 01:53 PM)
Nissin i40 small flash is good smile.gif
*
If he doesn't mind not having a first party flash (and no wireless flash command, which the 32 DOES have), then yeah, the i40 is a more powerful option.

croomaniac Not sure what you mean but, isn't AF-C = Non-stop AF?

At least it works that way on my 5T, it doesn't really "lock" per say, it just settles down on whatever you focus on - at least when set to "wide" focus area. No indicator box or anything (besides the green "focusing" icon thingy on the lower left corner).

Howewer, when set to "center" focus the centre box does appear before becoming green on and off as it acquires and re-acquires focus.

It isn't like AF-A on the A6000, which "locks" when it can (it switches between AF-S and AF-C as needed).

Or is it that it doesn't "settle down" for you and hunts focus forever? If that's the case, it sounds like either the lens or camera is somehow borked (software? lens contacts?), or you're trying to focus below MFD.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 23 2015, 02:30 PM
kmarc
post Nov 23 2015, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(philipcs @ Nov 23 2015, 01:53 PM)
Nissin i40 small flash is good smile.gif
*
Thx. Will do some more research on the flash. smile.gif
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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 23 2015, 02:27 PM)
If he doesn't mind not having a first party flash (and no wireless flash command, which the 32 DOES have), then yeah, the i40 is a more powerful option.

*
Meaning the i40 won't be able to trigger my off-camera f58? hmm.gif
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post Nov 23 2015, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 23 2015, 02:27 PM)
If he doesn't mind not having a first party flash (and no wireless flash command, which the 32 DOES have), then yeah, the i40 is a more powerful option.

croomaniac Not sure what you mean but, isn't AF-C = Non-stop AF?

At least it works that way on my 5T, it doesn't really "lock" per say, it just settles down on whatever you focus on - at least when set to "wide" focus area. No indicator box or anything (besides the green "focusing" icon thingy on the lower left corner).

Howewer, when set to "center" focus the centre box does appear before becoming green on and off as it acquires and re-acquires focus.

It isn't like AF-A on the A6000, which "locks" when it can (it switches between AF-S and AF-C as needed).

Or is it that it doesn't "settle down" for you and hunts focus forever? If that's the case, it sounds like either the lens or camera is somehow borked (software? lens contacts?), or you're trying to focus below MFD.
*
The bold part is the exact thing i want to express.

The thing is that, when i tried on AF-S, it'll not hunt, it'll lock upon the subject. If AF-C, it'll hunt (but not from min to infinity) just like defocus and refocus and defocus back (till forever).. It'll just not lock.. and it allows you to snap anyway (and depends on luck, your pic can be OOF too)..

I have 3 lenses with it, pancakes, 18-55 and adaptor for my 50mm.. all three lenses behaving the same.. i mean, can't lock in AF-C mode..
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post Nov 23 2015, 07:10 PM

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Isn't that the whole point of having AF-C? To have the camera continuously hunt? If you want it to lock maybe you can try AF-A to see if it suits you?

This post has been edited by Zephyr_Mage: Nov 23 2015, 07:10 PM
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post Nov 23 2015, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(Zephyr_Mage @ Nov 23 2015, 07:10 PM)
Isn't that the whole point of having AF-C? To have the camera continuously hunt? If you want it to lock maybe you can try AF-A to see if it suits you?
*
QUOTE(croomaniac @ Nov 23 2015, 03:31 PM)
The bold part is the exact thing i want to express.

The thing is that, when i tried on AF-S, it'll not hunt, it'll lock upon the subject. If AF-C, it'll hunt (but not from min to infinity) just like defocus and refocus and defocus back (till forever).. It'll just not lock.. and it allows you to snap anyway (and depends on luck, your pic can be OOF too)..

I have 3 lenses with it, pancakes, 18-55 and adaptor for my 50mm.. all three lenses behaving the same.. i mean, can't lock in AF-C mode..
*
Well AF supposed to "hunt and settle" on AF-C. The older NEXs didn't actually indicate this happening (unless you turned on "show phase-detect AF points" in menu MAYBE, but I haven't tried), unlike the A6000/A5100 which has that creepy morphing green glob of death focus indicator in AF-A and AF-C.

But it does settle.

HOWEVER, focus will NOT LOCK on AF-C. Unlike on AF-S, AF-C (being "continuous") will make the camera keep focus "continuously" on whatever it "thinks" it should be focusing on.

*Unfortunately, sometimes what you "want" it to focus on might not be the same as what it "thinks" it should focus on... but that's a different issue altogether.*

Do be aware of the difference between "focus settle" (hold focus for a bit... as long as the subject doesn't move) and "focus lock" (locking focus at a certain distance for as long as you half press the shutter/AF button). "Focus lock" will NOT happen with AF-C because that's just what it's designed to do.

So how the heck do you know if things are in focus in AF-C with the older NEXs? If you're using "wide" in the AF area setting: That really unhelpful "in focus" indicator on the lower right is all you have.

Otherwise, switch to "centre" in the AF area setting, you'll get a box that turns green when things are in focus... turns white again when it's not... and (unlike when used with AF-S) rapidly switches between the two as it gets... loses... gets... loses focus over and over.

The green blob of death on the A6000 is far more useful when it comes to indicating AF-C focus though lol (plus the AF itself is faster). That's why I usually have my 5T on AF-S (almost) all the time and switch to the A6000 for "action" shots.

After that long ass explaination up top, I do have to ask again to confirm. Is your NEX-5 not "locking" or "settling" on AF-C?

Only if it's not "settling" at all and is just "hunting" all the time do you have an issue. Otherwise it's just AF-C doing what it's supposed to do.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 23 2015, 08:29 PM
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post Nov 23 2015, 08:22 PM

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QUOTE(kmarc @ Nov 23 2015, 02:35 PM)
Meaning the i40 won't be able to trigger my off-camera f58?  hmm.gif
*
Correct - or at least it wouldn't be able to trigger the F58 is W-TTL mode (aka Wireless Auto flash). But the i40 can "be triggered" by the F58 in commander mode, either as a W-TTL slave (I think) and as a normal "dumb" optical slave.

If you want a small flash that works as a Sony W-TTL commander (and does swivel and bounce) than the F32M is your only option.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 23 2015, 08:24 PM
Silverfire
post Nov 23 2015, 09:44 PM

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TOTALLY OFFTOPIC HERE

Just used my GTX970 to claim a free copy of R6Siege. Previously also used my same GTX970 to claim a free copy of MGSV. Owners can also choose to claim AC:Syndicate instead of R6Siege.

This promotion is available for GTX980Ti, GTX980, GTX970 and GTX970M owners.

IF YOUR PURCHASE DATE IS BEFORE PROMOTION PERIOD, JUST TAKE A PHOTO OF YOUR PURCHASE RECEIPT AND EDIT THE DATE TO SOMETHING MORE RECENT

not all retailer require you to upload receipt

For ASUS, click the link below and scroll to bottom to start claiming a free copy.
http://www.asus.com/event/VGA/Bullets-or-Blades/

For GIGABYTE, click the link below, scroll to bottom and click APPLY GAME CODE.
http://event.gigabyte.com/201510_VGA_promotion

For Inno3D, click the link below and follow instructions.
http://www.inno3d.com/news_detail.php?flyi...ettimonster=300

For MSI, click the link below, click APAC only and scroll to bottom. Follow the instructions on WHAT SHOULD I DO TO GET A FREE GAME?
http://gaming.msi.com/promotion/bullets-or-blades

For PALIT, click the link below and click GET YOUR GAME CODE.
http://www.palit.biz/event/promote/2015/bob/bob_apac.html

For OTHERS, check
http://www.geforce.co.uk/bullets-or-blades-bundle-sea
kmarc
post Nov 24 2015, 12:06 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 23 2015, 08:22 PM)
Correct - or at least it wouldn't be able to trigger the F58 is W-TTL mode (aka Wireless Auto flash). But the i40 can "be triggered" by the F58 in commander mode, either as a W-TTL slave (I think) and as a normal "dumb" optical slave.

If you want a small flash that works as a Sony W-TTL commander (and does swivel and bounce) than the F32M is your only option.
*
Thx thx. Will go for the F32M and see whether I want to keep or sell off the F58..... smile.gif

This post has been edited by kmarc: Nov 24 2015, 12:06 AM
Eiraku
post Nov 24 2015, 03:09 AM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 23 2015, 09:44 PM)
TOTALLY OFFTOPIC HERE

Just used my GTX970 to claim a free copy of R6Siege. Previously also used my same GTX970 to claim a free copy of MGSV. Owners can also choose to claim AC:Syndicate instead of R6Siege.

This promotion is available for GTX980Ti, GTX980, GTX970 and GTX970M owners.
*
Err mmmkay.

Actually not totally off tangent considering the main reason I post less over here these days is a (currently very hyped) game featuring one cute robot named Curie.

The Nvidia offer seems to be a super great deal but unfortunately I'm gaming on a relatively old lappy (it's at least 2 gens behind as far as the graphics are concerned lol) so it's sadly not applicable to me.

It's a tad weird though that most (if not all) Nvidia "offers" usually come from Ubisoft. Last time during my gen it was Far Cry 3.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


*Mmmkay back to Photography mode.*

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 24 2015, 03:33 AM
croomaniac
post Nov 24 2015, 10:55 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 23 2015, 07:51 PM)
Well AF supposed to "hunt and settle" on AF-C. The older NEXs didn't actually indicate this happening (unless you turned on "show phase-detect AF points" in menu MAYBE, but I haven't tried), unlike the A6000/A5100 which has that creepy morphing green glob of death focus indicator in AF-A and AF-C.

But it does settle.

HOWEVER, focus will NOT LOCK on AF-C. Unlike on AF-S, AF-C (being "continuous") will make the camera keep focus "continuously" on whatever it "thinks" it should be focusing on.

*Unfortunately, sometimes what you "want" it to focus on might not be the same as what it "thinks" it should focus on... but that's a different issue altogether.*

Do be aware of the difference between "focus settle" (hold focus for a bit... as long as the subject doesn't move) and "focus lock" (locking focus at a certain distance for as long as you half press the shutter/AF button). "Focus lock" will NOT happen with AF-C because that's just what it's designed to do.

So how the heck do you know if things are in focus in AF-C with the older NEXs? If you're using "wide" in the AF area setting: That really unhelpful "in focus" indicator on the lower right is all you have.

Otherwise, switch to "centre" in the AF area setting, you'll get a box that turns green when things are in focus... turns white again when it's not... and (unlike when used with AF-S) rapidly switches between the two as it gets... loses... gets... loses focus over and over.

The green blob of death on the A6000 is far more useful when it comes to indicating AF-C focus though lol (plus the AF itself is faster). That's why I usually have my 5T on AF-S (almost) all the time and switch to the A6000 for "action" shots.

After that long ass explaination up top, I do have to ask again to confirm. Is your NEX-5 not "locking" or "settling" on AF-C?

Only if it's not "settling" at all and is just "hunting" all the time do you have an issue. Otherwise it's just AF-C doing what it's supposed to do.
*
Thanks for the lenghty explaination. I've been using NEX for a mere 5 years plus now (lately using it occasionally) and it is always set to AF-C. I don't have a direct explanation on why i chose that mode instead of AF-S, mainly because if I'm ever in need of shooting a moving target (read: running kids or flying birds), then AF-C will always help..

AF-S is fine as well, but AF-S is a subset of AF-C then..

So, after thousands of snapped pics, only last weekend i felt something weird. My pics turned out to be OOF. Which is puzzling me (coz i thought i got it right). Only to know that it will actually come to focus and defocus again then refocus again (it'll never stop).. I think I'll catch a vid later to demo on how it is behaving.

Focus area, i like it spot, but usually when i don't have the luxury of time, I'll set it wide. Tried to spot focus, but it behaving the same. So does other lenses.

Puzzling it is, since AF-S is just great. If AF-S was a no go, i'll have to MF my shots! sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif
Zephyr_Mage
post Nov 24 2015, 10:59 AM

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Sony Curve told me to go over to grab the SEL1670Z yesterday so I dropped over after work. The staff then spent 30 minutes "checking" (which was really going into the back and calling other staff) and then told me this gem: "I'm not sure which staff called you, but the stock is not here yet."

Seriously? Why the fuck would they call me if they didn't have the damn stock?

Talk about leaving a bad taste in the mouth. Wasted my time, fuel, and money. Got my hopes high too.

This post has been edited by Zephyr_Mage: Nov 24 2015, 11:00 AM
asrul
post Nov 24 2015, 12:32 PM

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QUOTE(Zephyr_Mage @ Nov 24 2015, 10:59 AM)
Sony Curve told me to go over to grab the SEL1670Z yesterday so I dropped over after work. The staff then spent 30 minutes "checking" (which was really going into the back and calling other staff) and then told me this gem: "I'm not sure which staff called you, but the stock is not here yet."

Seriously? Why the fuck would they call me if they didn't have the damn stock?

Talk about leaving a bad taste in the mouth. Wasted my time, fuel, and money. Got my hopes high too.
*
might be the staff that called you reserve it for you without informing other staff as well smile.gif

in my case, i ask them to hold it for me because i can only came the day after.
when arrive there, i randomly asked the staff the availability of the lens, and the first one said no, only then i mention the name of the staff that i spoke on the phone a day before, then that right staff said the stock is there reserved for me.

This post has been edited by asrul: Nov 24 2015, 12:38 PM
Zephyr_Mage
post Nov 24 2015, 01:29 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 24 2015, 12:32 PM)
might be the staff that called you reserve it for you without informing other staff as well smile.gif

in my case, i ask them to hold it for me because i can only came the day after.
when arrive there, i randomly asked the staff the availability of the lens, and the first one said no, only then i mention the name of the staff that i spoke on the phone a day before, then that right staff said the stock is there reserved for me.
*
Nope, they told me very clearly that I was on the waiting list but there was simply no stock available for me.

UPDATE - They just called me and confirmed that they sold the unit reserved for me to someone else. Next delivery is estimated on 11 December.
Customer service at its worst. Next time I'll think twice before trusting these fucktards.

2ND UPDATE - Now they are calling me over to collect tonight. Fingers crossed.
Behold the power of escalation.

This post has been edited by Zephyr_Mage: Nov 24 2015, 03:21 PM
Eiraku
post Nov 24 2015, 03:46 PM

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QUOTE(croomaniac @ Nov 24 2015, 10:55 AM)
Thanks for the lenghty explaination. I've been using NEX for a mere 5 years plus now (lately using it occasionally) and it is always set to AF-C. I don't have a direct explanation on why i chose that mode instead of AF-S, mainly because if I'm ever in need of shooting a moving target (read: running kids or flying birds), then AF-C will always help..

AF-S is fine as well, but AF-S is a subset of AF-C then..

So, after thousands of snapped pics, only last weekend i felt something weird. My pics turned out to be OOF. Which is  puzzling me (coz i thought i got it right). Only to know that it will actually come to focus and defocus again then refocus again (it'll never stop).. I think I'll catch a vid later to demo on how it is behaving.

Focus area, i like it spot, but usually when i don't have the luxury of time, I'll set it wide. Tried to spot focus, but it behaving the same. So does other lenses.

Puzzling it is, since AF-S is just great. If AF-S was a no go, i'll have to MF my shots!  sweat.gif  sweat.gif  sweat.gif
*
In that case, it's just hunting endlessly, which unfortunately indicates an issue of some sort. Do try your lenses with another E-mount body in AF-C and see if it works as it should so that we can confirm where the issue lies.
vincentlee90
post Nov 24 2015, 04:10 PM

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never expected sony store the curve service quality so bad. so far, my shopping experience at sony store klcc is very good
Eiraku
post Nov 24 2015, 04:54 PM

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QUOTE(vincentlee90 @ Nov 24 2015, 04:10 PM)
never expected sony store the curve service quality so bad. so far, my shopping experience at sony store klcc is very good
*
I just go there to test stuff. Even with just that KLCC had much, much better service.

I did try sourcing an ECU1 from the Curve once, told me that they would call back after checking stock... never called back.
Zephyr_Mage
post Nov 24 2015, 05:48 PM

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I had better experience with the guy at KLCC. I went there after the Curve.
Yes he told me there was no stock but today he told me that I could pay for the lens first and then when it arrives I can go over and collect it. He texted me after I missed his call.

The Curve staff never called me again after I missed their call. I actually had to call them back.

Too bad I'm getting the lens at the Curve tonight (fingers crossed). Would rather give the sale to KLCC to be honest.

This post has been edited by Zephyr_Mage: Nov 24 2015, 05:49 PM
vincentlee90
post Nov 24 2015, 06:58 PM

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i bought SEL24F18Z at Sony Store KLCC few days ago. i love this Zeiss lenses over 4 years and finally bought it with nice price smile.gif
asrul
post Nov 24 2015, 07:47 PM

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as for me curve store give better experience smile.gif
eligible
post Nov 24 2015, 10:16 PM

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Guy's what do you think? Isn't it a little over price on A7-II series? more than RM10k.
vincentlee90
post Nov 25 2015, 12:32 AM

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QUOTE(eligible @ Nov 24 2015, 10:16 PM)
Guy's what do you think? Isn't it a little over price on A7-II series? more than RM10k.
*
it depends on what's your preference. for me, A7II is good enough for everyday use. if you prefer higher resolution and better overall performance, A7RII, or if you prefer better high ISO performance & low light autofocus performance, A7SII. however, A7SII is over expensive due to the malaysia ringgit value is too low. in fact, some country selling A7SII cheaper than A7RII
eligible
post Nov 25 2015, 08:26 AM

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QUOTE(vincentlee90 @ Nov 25 2015, 12:32 AM)
it depends on what's your preference. for me, A7II is good enough for everyday use. if you prefer higher resolution and better overall performance, A7RII, or if you prefer better high ISO performance & low light autofocus performance, A7SII. however, A7SII is over expensive due to the malaysia ringgit value is too low. in fact, some country selling A7SII cheaper than A7RII
*
Comparing a7 and a7II. The difference so huge. I'm a a7 user and was shocked the price the selling.
ahpingko
post Nov 25 2015, 09:36 AM

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Any place to buy kingma usb charger and winter photography gloves? Ebay taking long time to reach.. Need it b4 9dec..lol
Silverfire
post Nov 25 2015, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(ahpingko @ Nov 25 2015, 09:36 AM)
Any place to buy kingma usb charger and winter photography gloves? Ebay taking long time to reach.. Need it b4 9dec..lol
*
Lazada RM30 bro
http://www.lazada.com.my/kingma-dual-usb-b...52.html?boost=1
Belphegor
post Nov 25 2015, 10:46 AM

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Hey guys, there are sales gonna start soon and the three Sony Centre my company owns are having it too! So do check out the link below and stay tune as the product list will be out on 1st of December. wink.gif

A few of the photo enthusiast did PM me but I am afraid I cannot give the price as the price not with me yet. tongue.gif Will share on the event page link below when the list it out. biggrin.gif

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=ST&f...0#entry77512499
adlirazali
post Nov 25 2015, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 22 2015, 08:51 PM)
Thanks notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
*
hi, would like to ask u as FE28F20 user do u experience slow focusing?

im comparing f2/28mm vs 55mm, some reviewers claimed that other than being less sharp, 28mm also suffers from slower focusing.

well i understand we get what we pay for, but is it that bad?

before converting to sony ff, im a m43 user. and i gotta say, im pretty happy with how fast the prime lens can focus.

when using 55mm on a7ii, it does feel a bit slower to focus compared to the prime on my previous m43 cam.

28mm even much slower, is it true?

Silverfire
post Nov 25 2015, 11:30 AM

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QUOTE(adlirazali @ Nov 25 2015, 11:13 AM)
hi, would like to ask u as FE28F20 user do u experience slow focusing?

im comparing f2/28mm vs 55mm, some reviewers claimed that other than being less sharp, 28mm also suffers from slower focusing.

well i  understand we get what we pay for, but is it that bad?

before converting to sony ff, im a m43 user. and i gotta say, im pretty happy with how fast the prime lens can focus.

when using 55mm on a7ii, it does feel a bit slower to focus compared to the prime on my previous m43 cam.

28mm even much slower, is it true?
*
I only used FE55 for a couple of minutes but I can tell the FE28 is slower. I'm not sure what you usually shoot but for me AF is already godsend. I usually shoot full manual with Loxia or older Zeiss lenses.

I converted from 5DM3 to A7II. So far so good, slower but no complaints.
SoLiD
post Nov 25 2015, 11:46 AM

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Hi, guys new A7II user here, I wanna ask why when i attached the hvl-f43m flash there seem to be some delay from when i press the button to the actual shutter release? It only happen when i turn on the flash, both flash and camera are in manual mode
Eiraku
post Nov 25 2015, 12:34 PM

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QUOTE(SoLiD @ Nov 25 2015, 11:46 AM)
Hi, guys new A7II user here, I wanna ask why when i attached the hvl-f43m flash  there seem to be some delay from when i press the button to the actual shutter release? It only happen when i turn on the flash, both flash and camera are in manual mode
*
Not sure what exactly is wrong as I have neither the A7ii nor the F43M, but maybe the shutter is waiting for the flash to build up power in its capacitor? That said, this only happens if you try to do multiple shots at full flash power in continuous shutter mode (considering you're in manual flash mode), or if you're trying to shoot at full flash power directly after turning it on.

The delay shouldn't be too long in both cases though.

On the other hand, the F60M is known to overheat under the first condition (continuous use) so you might be better off with a delay than a baked flash lol.

BTW, for you Nikon shooters out there, the Nikon AF adapter for E-mount is FINALLY out and shipping now: http://goo.gl/JynmLo

Should work as well as the Canon ones, and it includes PDAF for the A7ii and A7Rii as well... so yeah, now us Sony shooters (un)officially have the widest array of AF lenses lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 25 2015, 12:44 PM
SoLiD
post Nov 25 2015, 01:28 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 25 2015, 12:34 PM)
Not sure what exactly is wrong as I have neither the A7ii nor the F43M, but maybe the shutter is waiting for the flash to build up power in its capacitor? That said, this only happens if you try to do multiple shots at full flash power in continuous shutter mode (considering you're in manual flash mode), or if you're trying to shoot at full flash power directly after turning it on.

The delay shouldn't be too long in both cases though.

On the other hand, the F60M is known to overheat under the first condition (continuous use) so you might be better off with a delay than a baked flash lol.

BTW, for you Nikon shooters out there, the Nikon AF adapter for E-mount is FINALLY out and shipping now: http://goo.gl/JynmLo

Should work as well as the Canon ones, and it includes PDAF for the A7ii and A7Rii as well... so yeah, now us Sony shooters (un)officially have the widest array of AF lenses lol.
*
Shouldn't be a charge problem as the ready light is already on and I'm not doing any burst. It's roughly around 1 sec delay and the power makes no different either on full power or 1/64th power the delay will still be there

which makes me to suspect there might be some setting in the camera or flash that I missed out causing the delay or i have a defective flash unit
noname83
post Nov 25 2015, 01:43 PM

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QUOTE(SoLiD @ Nov 25 2015, 01:28 PM)
Shouldn't be a charge problem as the ready light is already on and I'm not doing any burst. It's roughly around 1 sec delay and the power makes no different either on full power or 1/64th power the delay will still be there

which makes me to suspect there might be some setting in the camera or flash that I missed out causing the delay or i have a defective flash unit
*
Try turning off the "red eye reduction" feature, it does the trick on my A6k + F32M.
SUSweretiger
post Nov 25 2015, 04:28 PM

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QUOTE(vincentlee90 @ Nov 24 2015, 06:58 PM)
i bought SEL24F18Z at Sony Store KLCC few days ago. i love this Zeiss lenses over 4 years and finally bought it with nice price smile.gif
*
mind if i ask berapa?
adlirazali
post Nov 25 2015, 05:10 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 25 2015, 11:30 AM)
I only used FE55 for a couple of minutes but I can tell the FE28 is slower. I'm not sure what you usually shoot but for me AF is already godsend. I usually shoot full manual with Loxia or older Zeiss lenses.

I converted from 5DM3 to A7II. So far so good, slower but no complaints.
*
im a noob only, shoot some family portraits only here and there, but i like to keep them candid. caught in the act pics are the best.

user posted imageselfie 101 by adli razali, on Flickr

user posted imagechenang by adli razali, on Flickr

tbh, i dont really know, or more correct, i really dont know how to use my a7ii's function to the fullest. all the time i only toy with the aperture.
ISO? auto
exposure? auto too.
everything's auto, even focus also auto lol.
thus my noobness causes the flaws in my pics. sweat.gif
vincentlee90
post Nov 25 2015, 08:15 PM

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QUOTE(eligible @ Nov 25 2015, 08:26 AM)
Comparing a7 and a7II. The difference so huge. I'm a a7 user and was shocked the price the selling.
*
if compare A7II with A7's new SRP, yup, about RM1600 difference
NightFelix
post Nov 25 2015, 08:15 PM

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Guys, I wanna ask, since our Camera are using SD Card, I wonder anyone here use MicroSD Card + Adapter? sweat.gif
Eiraku
post Nov 25 2015, 09:15 PM

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QUOTE(NightFelix @ Nov 25 2015, 08:15 PM)
Guys, I wanna ask, since our Camera are using SD Card, I wonder anyone here use MicroSD Card + Adapter? sweat.gif
*
Can be done, if the microSD is fast enough (say Class 10 U1 or U3). It shouldn't have any impact TBH, except the fact that large capacity, high-speed microSD are often considerably more expensive vs normal SD cards of the same speed/capacity.

That said, transferring large amounts of data generates heat and the (mostly) plastic body and (relatively) fragile contacts of the mSD -> SD adapter might or might not be able to withstand the repeated heat-stress of multiple high speed writes.

Just the adapter mind you, the mSD itself (like their bigger brothers) are generally quite robust.

I do have a few spare mSD cards and adapters lying around from my old phones for emergencies though. They're slow but should be good enough for non-burst shots.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 25 2015, 09:16 PM
NightFelix
post Nov 25 2015, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 25 2015, 09:15 PM)
Can be done, if the microSD is fast enough (say Class 10 U1 or U3). It shouldn't have any impact TBH, except the fact that large capacity, high-speed microSD are often considerably more expensive vs normal SD cards of the same speed/capacity.

That said, transferring large amounts of data generates heat and the (mostly) plastic body and (relatively) fragile contacts of the mSD -> SD adapter might or might not be able to withstand the repeated heat-stress of multiple high speed writes.

Just the adapter mind you, the mSD itself (like their bigger brothers) are generally quite robust.

I do have a few spare mSD cards and adapters lying around from my old phones for emergencies though. They're slow but should be good enough for non-burst shots.
*
Thanks for the such long explanation. I'm very grateful to you. Meanwhile Samsung US is doing Black Friday sales for both mSD and SD. The last year Samsung Pro 64GB only 19.99$ and Samsung Pro+ only 29.99$. I was tempted to get myself one last year model would be sufficient for me.
ChinWY
post Nov 25 2015, 10:37 PM

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QUOTE(NightFelix @ Nov 26 2015, 02:44 AM)
Thanks for the such long explanation. I'm very grateful to you. Meanwhile Samsung US is doing Black Friday sales for both mSD and SD. The last year Samsung Pro 64GB only 19.99$ and Samsung Pro+ only 29.99$. I was tempted to get myself one last year model would be sufficient for me.
*
i have shot multiple burst on a 32GB class 10 microSD.. over a period of 1 hour in a recent trip (ran out of memory so had to rip it out of my action cam) and it cope well.. just dont overdo it.. Carriers will give contact problems - even the best.. I bought a a box of 100.. cheaper and just dump when if give problem.
asrul
post Nov 26 2015, 12:38 PM

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based on your own experience,
do we really need filter for lens?
if so, what is the most needed filter(s) for travel / or all rounder?
lwliam
post Nov 26 2015, 12:39 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 26 2015, 12:38 PM)
based on your own experience,
do we really need filter for lens?
if so, what is the most needed filter(s) for travel / or all rounder?
*
UV/clear filter (for protection purposes)
Polarizer. For effect you can't replicate in post processing.
Eiraku
post Nov 26 2015, 12:52 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 26 2015, 12:39 PM)
UV/clear filter (for protection purposes)
Polarizer. For effect you can't replicate in post processing.
*
Agreed. Filters are useful sometimes for effects you just can't get with PP (especially polarizers).

Also useful an ND16 and ND1000. The 16 for bright daylight wide open shooting (an 8 would also do fine) and general blurring of moving stuff. The 1000 for massive blurring of moving stuff lol - which you COULD stack but I prefer to do in-cam.

As for UV, while I do carry them around for protection in "hazardous" environments, I normally don't keep them on because they normally interfere with my night shooting with lightblobs and flare - even with my top end Hoya, Kenko and Marumi UV filters. No B+W/Zeiss stuff cause still I find the prices a bit excessive, even for the purported performance (at least for now).

But that's probably just me.

Quality filters are quality filters though - skimping on your filters by getting cheapo third party stuff will (usually) show in your pics.

That said, the more "premium" China brands HAVE been improving by leaps and bounds. Take Haida and Zomei for instance: They have been churning out quality filters lately (especially Zomei, their latest ND1000 is considerably better than my Hoya ND400), with the minor caveat of QC (you're more likely to get lemons VS with Hoya or B+W).

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 26 2015, 12:56 PM
IazHes
post Nov 26 2015, 01:38 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 26 2015, 12:39 PM)
UV/clear filter (for protection purposes)
Polarizer. For effect you can't replicate in post processing.
*
QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 26 2015, 12:52 PM)
Agreed. Filters are useful sometimes for effects you just can't get with PP (especially polarizers).

Also useful an ND16 and ND1000. The 16 for bright daylight wide open shooting (an 8 would also do fine) and general blurring of moving stuff. The 1000 for massive blurring of moving stuff lol - which you COULD stack but I prefer to do in-cam.

As for UV, while I do carry them around for protection in "hazardous" environments, I normally don't keep them on because they normally interfere with my night shooting with lightblobs and flare - even with my top end Hoya, Kenko and Marumi UV filters. No B+W/Zeiss stuff cause still I find the prices a bit excessive, even for the purported performance (at least for now).

But that's probably just me.

Quality filters are quality filters though - skimping on your filters by getting cheapo third party stuff will (usually) show in your pics.

That said, the more "premium" China brands HAVE been improving by leaps and bounds. Take Haida and Zomei for instance: They have been churning out quality filters lately (especially Zomei, their latest ND1000 is considerably better than my Hoya ND400), with the minor caveat of QC (you're more likely to get lemons VS with Hoya or B+W).
*
Thanks, i was wondering about filter as well.
Now i get to know what brand/type filter to use more. XD
philipcs
post Nov 26 2015, 03:14 PM

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QUOTE(IazHes @ Nov 26 2015, 01:38 PM)
Thanks, i was wondering about filter as well.
Now i get to know what brand/type filter to use more. XD
*
Protection filter need to make sure you get those branded and high quality one, which is not cheap.

If get those cheap one, it degrade your image quality.

For me, I can't afford high quality filter, therefore I never use Protection filter.
hensky
post Nov 26 2015, 03:39 PM

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since everyone is discussing about filter, I am looking CPL filter for my FE 16-35
Any recommendation?
asrul
post Nov 26 2015, 03:48 PM

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Is CPL good for 'always-attach-on-lenses-all-the-time"?

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post Nov 26 2015, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(hensky @ Nov 26 2015, 03:39 PM)
since everyone is discussing about filter, I am looking CPL filter for my FE 16-35
Any recommendation?
*
Ultra wide angles are not recommended to use with CPLs. Due to light incident angle, polarisation of the field of view will not be complete, leaving one part of the scene darkened, and others still comparatively brighter.

If you're not sure what I'm talking about, Google up on "why cpl not suitable for ultra wide angle"
lwliam
post Nov 26 2015, 03:54 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 26 2015, 03:48 PM)
Is CPL good for 'always-attach-on-lenses-all-the-time"?
*
Not really, unless you're consistently looking to cut 2-stops of light from entering your sensor.

Another drastic example would also be, you're going to somewhere sandy/dusty and need protection for your lens but no clear filter is to be found. Then yea, just slap the CPL on.
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post Nov 26 2015, 04:04 PM

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post Nov 26 2015, 04:08 PM

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a77 good or not guys?want to join the orange family...
Eiraku
post Nov 26 2015, 05:08 PM

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QUOTE(lwliam @ Nov 26 2015, 03:51 PM)
Ultra wide angles are not recommended to use with CPLs. Due to light incident angle, polarisation of the field of view will not be complete, leaving one part of the scene darkened, and others still comparatively brighter.

If you're not sure what I'm talking about, Google up on "why cpl not suitable for ultra wide angle"
*
It must be said that while this uneven effect is true, it is more of a problem with scenes with a lot of sky in it, as the effect is most noticeable when it appears on an evenly coloured area (aka sky).

You MIGHT want to use the polarizer with an UWA for different purposes: Cutting reflection on a large surface of water/glass for instance, or increasing the saturation of green foliage (in a scene with minimal sky). It would still be uneven pe se, but there will be certain niche situations where the benefit might be worth the "effect", especially when you can minimize the impact of the uneven-ness with careful framing.

An example of this will be a shot of a clear steam in a lush green forest (with only a little bit of sky), and you want to kill the reflection on the stream and enhance the green of the forest.

It's only really useful in niche situations like this, and it's entirely up to you if you think your shooting style makes getting a RM200++ CPL "worth it".

Similarly Variable ND Filters: which is handy and is agressively marketed by them filter people as the solution to everything ND related.

Unfortunately an VariND will ALWAYS cause the dreaded "cross-x" effect when used to the extreme... no matter how "high quality" the VariND is (and it's even worse for UWAs as VariNDs are normally nothing more than a Linear Polariser + Circular Polariser).

I just stick with my ND16 and ND1000 and they're usually good enough for most situations where I need NDs.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 26 2015, 05:18 PM
noname83
post Nov 26 2015, 05:17 PM

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Speaking of filters, does any good forumer here ever clean his/her filter with lens wipes (pre-moistened)? Since many filters are easily scratched, do pre-moistened lens wipes add any damage to these fragile piece of glass?
Eiraku
post Nov 26 2015, 05:28 PM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 26 2015, 05:17 PM)
Speaking of filters, does any good forumer here ever clean his/her filter with lens wipes (pre-moistened)? Since many filters are easily scratched, do pre-moistened lens wipes add any damage to these fragile piece of glass?
*
Actually, modern filters (especially more recent "HD" filters with Schott glass and "baked" coatings) are pretty durable and you can even run cutter blades though them with no issue.

Pre-2000 filters (and cheapos) with laminated coatings (aka tinting) can be quite fragile though.

Heck, modern LENS coatings can pretty much stand cutter blades. It's SAND PARTICLES that is the problem (as silica is pretty much "damn hard" on the Mohs scale vs metal).

Similar situation with Gorilla Glass phone screens - and why repeated and improper lens/filter cleaning will end up leaving "cleaning marks". It's those damn sand particles which are everywhere unfortunately. That's why you need to ALWAYS blow your filter/lens first before cleaning.

So to answer your question, if the pre-moistened lens wipes are "made for lenses" (aka, spec wipes or Zeiss wipes), it should be fine.

I prefer using Lenspens for general cleaning however, especially the newer carbonless ones (which are unfortunately quite expensive) - but I will always fall back to my breath + lens tissue (true story) for harder stains and next to pure isopropyl alcohol pads (err... injection pads) if the stain is too stubborn (though IA can be quite strong so use with caution).

That said, Windex (and other hardcore window cleaners) might not be good for any lens/filter however. It's not that they might dissolve the coatings, it's that they might leave residue on your lens/filters as they are mixed with other chemicals.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 26 2015, 05:35 PM
noname83
post Nov 26 2015, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 26 2015, 05:28 PM)
Actually, modern filters (especially more recent "HD" filters with Schott glass and "baked" coatings) are pretty durable and you can even run cutter blades though them with no issue.

Pre-2000 filters (and cheapos) with laminated coatings (aka tinting) can be quite fragile though.

Heck, modern LENS coatings can pretty much stand cutter blades. It's SAND PARTICLES that is the problem (as silica is pretty much "damn hard" on the Mohs scale vs metal).

Similar situation with Gorilla Glass phone screens - and why repeated and improper lens/filter cleaning will end up leaving "cleaning marks". It's those damn sand particles which are everywhere unfortunately. That's why you need to ALWAYS blow your filter/lens first before cleaning.

So to answer your question, if the pre-moistened lens wipes are "made for lenses" (aka, spec wipes or Zeiss wipes), it should be fine. I prefer using Lenspens however, especially the newer carbonless ones (which are unfortunately quite expensive) - but I will always fall back to pure isopropyl alcohol pads (err... injection pads) if the stain is too stubborn.

That said, Windex (and other hardcore window cleaners) might not be good for any lens/filter however. It's not that they might dissolve the coatings, it's that they might leave residue on your lens/filters as they are mixed with other chemicals.
*
I'm using "lower grade" Hoya CPL, so Zeiss wipes should suffice I guess. I'm going to order the wipes in bulk.

I had a Kenko CPL and it scratched very easily.

I learned from online sources that Lenspen can't be used on CPL.

This post has been edited by noname83: Nov 26 2015, 05:36 PM
Eiraku
post Nov 26 2015, 05:39 PM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 26 2015, 05:35 PM)
I'm using "lower grade" Hoya CPL, so Zeiss wipes should suffice I guess. I'm going to order the wipes in bulk.

I had a Kenko CPL and it scratched very easily.

I learned from online sources that Lenspen can't be used on CPL.
*
Where are you getting the wipes from? Online?

As for lenspen + CPL.... yeah it does smudge quite easily with more modern hydro/oleophobic (water/oil-resistant) filter coatings. I always wondered why, probably it's just not made for top-end modern filter coatings I guess.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 26 2015, 05:53 PM
noname83
post Nov 26 2015, 05:46 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 26 2015, 05:39 PM)
Where are you getting the wipes from? Online?

As for lenspen + CPL.... yeah it does smudge quite easily with more modern hydro/oleophobic (water/oil-resistant) filter coatings. I always wondered why, probably it's just not made for top-end modern coatings I guess.
*
I'm getting the wipes from Garage Sale section.
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post Nov 26 2015, 05:52 PM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 26 2015, 05:46 PM)
I'm getting the wipes from Garage Sale section.
*
Links? If the price is right I might get some.

While I do have a large batch of IsoAlc pads available to me at all times sometimes you do want something less solvent for more "normal" stains.

Besides, IsoAlc can get INSIDE lenses if you're not careful and who knows what it will do to the plastic innards of our fragile modern lenses lol.
noname83
post Nov 26 2015, 05:56 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 26 2015, 05:52 PM)
Links? If the price is right I might get some.

While I do have a large batch of IsoAlc pads available to me at all times sometimes you do want something less solvent for more "normal" stains.

Besides, IsoAlc can get INSIDE lenses if you're not careful and who knows what it will do to the plastic innards of our fragile modern lenses lol.
*
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1351477
Eiraku
post Nov 26 2015, 06:00 PM

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QUOTE(noname83 @ Nov 26 2015, 05:56 PM)
Woah really good price for the pads - only slightly more expensive than B&H minus shipping. Hopefully they're Ori Zeiss (or at least 90% as good).

Will order two boxes myself later. Thanks a bunch for the link.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 26 2015, 06:02 PM
noname83
post Nov 26 2015, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 26 2015, 06:00 PM)
Woah really good price for the pads  - only slightly more expensive than B&H minus shipping. Hopefully they're Ori Zeiss (or at least 90% as good).

Will order two boxes myself later. Thanks a bunch for the link.
*
You're welcomed.
myboey
post Nov 26 2015, 06:06 PM

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Hello just bought A6000 and join this family officially.

One question, why the intelligent mode when I'm shooting 2person, the person at the back will be blurred out? Is it possible for me to change the aperture?

Eiraku
post Nov 26 2015, 06:38 PM

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QUOTE(myboey @ Nov 26 2015, 06:06 PM)
Hello just bought A6000 and join this family officially.

One question, why the intelligent mode when I'm shooting 2person, the person at the back will be blurred out? Is it possible for me to change the aperture?
*
Go to A mode if you wanna make changes. iA mode is... well... Auto, so besides exposure compensation I don't think you can change anything else (not sure really, I very very rarely use iA). I think it just "guesses" that you want to focus ONLY on the person on the front, thus the back guy is blurred.

Probably anyway. It also depends on how dark the scene is... too dark and iA might just open up the aperture regardless lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 26 2015, 06:40 PM
asrul
post Nov 26 2015, 08:39 PM

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am thinking to get this
http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/55mm-UV-CPL-Pol...zMAAOSw1x1UQTus
IwanAGP
post Nov 26 2015, 10:33 PM

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QUOTE(myboey @ Nov 26 2015, 06:06 PM)
Hello just bought A6000 and join this family officially.

One question, why the intelligent mode when I'm shooting 2person, the person at the back will be blurred out? Is it possible for me to change the aperture?
*
biggrin.gif Don't start with iA mode. Start with the P Mode instead. P mode will show you the relationship between Aperture and Shutter speed. Trial and error from there wink.gif
myboey
post Nov 27 2015, 12:06 AM

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Thanks a lot... let me play around with it.. =D

This post has been edited by myboey: Nov 27 2015, 12:09 AM
Punanister
post Nov 27 2015, 12:57 PM

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QUOTE(NightFelix @ Nov 25 2015, 08:15 PM)
Guys, I wanna ask, since our Camera are using SD Card, I wonder anyone here use MicroSD Card + Adapter? sweat.gif
*
I feel so old reading this! Hahaha! Just kidding. tongue.gif Mine still uses CF card. GOt an A350. biggrin.gif
IazHes
post Nov 27 2015, 01:43 PM

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sigma 30mm f2.8 worth to invest?
Eiraku
post Nov 27 2015, 01:45 PM

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QUOTE(asrul @ Nov 26 2015, 08:39 PM)
Should be okay for the price, but don't expect optical quality lol.

But really, with your brand spanking new SEL1670Z, I think you would be better off with some basic Hoya or Kenko stuff AT LEAST. Those filters you linked will (most probably) butcher your IQ.

If they were to be used with the kitty, it wouldn't be so bad.

lazHes If you like 30mm (on crop) and don't mind the f/2.8 + lack of OSS/PDAF, sure. It's one of the sharpest lenses on crop E-mount too.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 27 2015, 01:54 PM
bdrc
post Nov 27 2015, 02:01 PM

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QUOTE(IazHes @ Nov 27 2015, 01:43 PM)
sigma 30mm f2.8 worth to invest?
*
Small, compact and sharp. Have had a few good shots using it. It will show strong vignetting on FF, but still usable in my term.

user posted imageSmall scape of busy town by RICO Lee, on Flickr

user posted imagewithout digital manipulation effect by RICO Lee, on Flickr

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hensky
post Nov 27 2015, 08:27 PM

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Couldn't find used sony 55-210mm. Bought used canon 55-250 IS II for weekend event instead.

test shot @ 250mm
user posted imageDSC07393 by ckinhoe, on Flickr

user posted imageDSC07398 by ckinhoe, on Flickr

This post has been edited by hensky: Nov 27 2015, 08:29 PM
ZeneticX
post Nov 28 2015, 12:03 AM

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from Croatia. a7 + FE 28-70mm f3.5-5.6 OSS

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post Nov 28 2015, 08:45 PM

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My recent shots

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domo_kun
post Nov 29 2015, 12:13 PM

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Just got home yesterday morning, slept like a baby for almost the entire day. I'll share some pictures via Samyang 12mm/f2 later today, or tomorrow. Few inquiries, though.

1) I've got a UV filter, but I notice the clip-on cover tend to leave smudges on the edges of the filter. Any way to counter this?

2) Best way to quickly swap lens? I tend to fumble a lot, taking the lens out from camera, covering the back with the cap, vice versa. You know the drill... Maybe. Ha-ha.

3) I got the photo format in both RAW and JPG. What do I edit with them? Sounds silly, I know, because different people will have different taste on them. But any basic, perhaps? Contrast? Saturation?

Eiraku I think I'm getting the hang of MF, its a lot quicker than AF, especially if I'm able to gauge the distance already. Ha-ha. Although of course, this is a noob speaking out of it. Still lots more to go. Thank you.

This post has been edited by domo_kun: Nov 29 2015, 12:14 PM
Silverfire
post Nov 29 2015, 09:32 PM

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Just did a not very scientific test of original battery and third party battery.

Test methodology & result
Sony A7M2 on tripod 1/100 ISO3200 XAVC S 60p 50M Lens cap ON / Monitor ON / SteadyShot ON
Model Sony NP FW-50 Octopus FW50
Time recorded 95min 43sec 63min 20sec
Price RM140 RM50

So yeah, original battery definitely better performance but it depends on your usage. If you're not shooting professionally (as in earning real bucks from your photography) then I see no reason going for original batteries.

This post has been edited by Silverfire: Nov 29 2015, 09:33 PM
Silverfire
post Nov 29 2015, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Nov 29 2015, 12:13 PM)
Just got home yesterday morning, slept like a baby for almost the entire day. I'll share some pictures via Samyang 12mm/f2 later today, or tomorrow. Few inquiries, though.

1) I've got a UV filter, but I notice the clip-on cover tend to leave smudges on the edges of the filter. Any way to counter this?

2) Best way to quickly swap lens? I tend to fumble a lot, taking the lens out from camera, covering the back with the cap, vice versa. You know the drill... Maybe. Ha-ha.

3) I got the photo format in both RAW and JPG. What do I edit with them? Sounds silly, I know, because different people will have different taste on them. But any basic, perhaps? Contrast? Saturation?

Eiraku I think I'm getting the hang of MF, its a lot quicker than AF, especially if I'm able to gauge the distance already. Ha-ha. Although of course, this is a noob speaking out of it. Still lots more to go. Thank you.
*
2. For swapping lens, I use Lowepro Lens Exchange 100 AW to quickly swap lens during jobs. Of course, no back cap front cap nonsense. Rear cap only put on top (no lock) if the rear element is the type that protrudes. All lens cap are off during work and lens hood is always on the lens. My lenses are almost never covered with front cap.

3. I use Photoshop. Lightroom only for batch jobs. But before you do any serious editing, get a proper monitor that can display good colours and make sure to calibrate them too. Dell Ultrasharp (they come pretty well calibrated) is the one to go if you have more budget else normal IPS panels will do. If you can't afford colour calibrator such as Spyder or X-Rite, what you can do is grab a iPad 2 or 3 or MBPro to compare with your monitor.

You can watch this video I made for quick Photoshop tutorial, simple and easy stuff. Filter plugin used was Nik Collection.


This post has been edited by Silverfire: Nov 29 2015, 09:43 PM
NightFelix
post Nov 30 2015, 12:18 AM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 29 2015, 09:32 PM)
Just did a not very scientific test of original battery and third party battery.

Test methodology & result
Sony A7M2 on tripod 1/100 ISO3200 XAVC S 60p 50M Lens cap ON / Monitor ON / SteadyShot ON
Model Sony NP FW-50 Octopus FW50
Time recorded 95min 43sec 63min 20sec
Price RM140 RM50

So yeah, original battery definitely better performance but it depends on your usage. If you're not shooting professionally (as in earning real bucks from your photography) then I see no reason going for original batteries.
*
Thanks for sharing. smile.gif

QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 29 2015, 09:40 PM)
2. For swapping lens, I use Lowepro Lens Exchange 100 AW to quickly swap lens during jobs. Of course, no back cap front cap nonsense. Rear cap only put on top (no lock) if the rear element is the type that protrudes.  All lens cap are off during work and lens hood is always on the lens. My lenses are almost never covered with front cap.

3. I use Photoshop. Lightroom only for batch jobs. But before you do any serious editing, get a proper monitor that can display good colours and make sure to calibrate them too. Dell Ultrasharp (they come pretty well calibrated) is the one to go if you have more budget else normal IPS panels will do. If you can't afford colour calibrator such as Spyder or X-Rite, what you can do is grab a iPad 2 or 3 or MBPro to compare with your monitor.

You can watch this video I made for quick Photoshop tutorial, simple and easy stuff. Filter plugin used was Nik Collection.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
Why I never thought of this. Cool idea! laugh.gif
digitalz
post Nov 30 2015, 12:22 AM

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To the sifus here,

Will the a5000 be a good entry? Looking at a compact but seriously, I have no idea what to choose now. It has been long since I got a camera after a few years of playing with a dslr (the pain of bringing 2 lenses and traveling solo is fun... but hard. Haha).

This post has been edited by digitalz: Nov 30 2015, 12:23 AM
Silverfire
post Nov 30 2015, 01:00 AM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Nov 30 2015, 12:22 AM)
To the sifus here,

Will the a5000 be a good entry? Looking at a compact but seriously, I have no idea what to choose now. It has been long since I got a camera after a few years of playing with a dslr (the pain of bringing 2 lenses and traveling solo is fun... but hard. Haha).
*
If no money for good lens, Sony RX100II/III is great deal. More budget can go for RX100IV. If you have even more budget, go for a used Sony RX1/R (around RM4500 can get).
IwanAGP
post Nov 30 2015, 01:05 AM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 30 2015, 01:00 AM)
If no money for good lens, Sony RX100II/III is great deal. More budget can go for RX100IV. If you have even more budget, go for a used Sony RX1/R (around RM4500 can get).
*
I think should start by asking what camera and lenses he was using?

He mentioned he had a dslr and 2 lenses so I thought that's the first question that should be asked haha
digitalz
post Nov 30 2015, 01:40 AM

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QUOTE(IwanAGP @ Nov 30 2015, 01:05 AM)
I think should start by asking what camera and lenses he was using?

He mentioned he had a dslr and 2 lenses so I thought that's the first question that should be asked haha
*
I started of with a canon for a bit. Sold it off then went around with my bro's a58 with the stock lenses. Since I did not bring the camera along with me now, I might as well get another for myself.
xiaotim
post Nov 30 2015, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 30 2015, 02:00 AM)
If no money for good lens, Sony RX100II/III is great deal. More budget can go for RX100IV. If you have even more budget, go for a used Sony RX1/R (around RM4500 can get).
*
where can get rx1r that cheap... shocking.gif shocking.gif imma interedasted drool.gif drool.gif
Belphegor
post Nov 30 2015, 12:18 PM

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QUOTE(xiaotim @ Nov 30 2015, 11:15 AM)
where can get rx1r that cheap...  shocking.gif  shocking.gif  imma interedasted drool.gif  drool.gif
*
I think you misread the sentence. laugh.gif Used RX1R bro. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Belphegor: Nov 30 2015, 12:20 PM
xiaotim
post Nov 30 2015, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(Belphegor @ Nov 30 2015, 01:18 PM)
I think you misread the sentence. laugh.gif Used RX1R bro. tongue.gif
*
i know its second hand. new one cost about 7400++... btw how is the condition?? shutter count??
Eiraku
post Nov 30 2015, 01:52 PM

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QUOTE(NightFelix @ Nov 30 2015, 12:18 AM)
Thanks for sharing. smile.gif
Why I never thought of this. Cool idea! laugh.gif
*
Or you can just use a Note 3/S4 or above set to Pro-Photo or Cinema display mode - it's got a pretty accurate display under these settings... at least according to DisplayMate.

At least until the AMOLED screen starts to degrade (which it does lol).

digitalz It's a good enough cam for a beginner (the A5000) but if you have any intention to seriously explore photography, the A6000 is a much better cam to start with.

If you want the best camera in the smallest package though, the A5100 is worth considering.

Well... at least amongst the Interchangeable Mirrorless cams anyway. If you don't need/want lens changing (or a bigger sensor) the RX100 series is often good enough for something so much smaller.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 30 2015, 02:00 PM
NightFelix
post Nov 30 2015, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 30 2015, 01:52 PM)
Or you can just use a Note 3/S4 or above set to Pro-Photo or Cinema display mode - it's got a pretty accurate display under these settings... at least according to DisplayMate.

At least until the AMOLED screen starts to degrade (which it does lol).

digitalz It's a good enough cam for a beginner (the A5000) but if you have any intention to seriously explore photography, the A6000 is a much better cam to start with.

If you want the best camera in the smallest package though, the A5100 is worth considering.

Well... at least amongst the Interchangeable Mirrorless cams anyway. If you don't need/want lens changing (or a bigger sensor) the RX100 series is often good enough for something so much smaller.
*
I check DisplayMate, they said use the Note 4 "Basic Screen" in the screen settings to get best accurate color.
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post Nov 30 2015, 04:17 PM

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QUOTE(NightFelix @ Nov 30 2015, 03:58 PM)
I check DisplayMate, they said use the Note 4 "Basic Screen" in the screen settings to get best accurate color.
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Izzit? I rock a N3 anyway so my "most accurate" setting is supposedly "Cinema" though I can never stand it being so muddily brown. I use Pro-Photo instead and that looks a bit better to my eyes lol... while remaining "fairly" accurate (albeit with the wider gamut of AdobeRGB rather than sRGB).

I assumed that it would be the same with the later phones... seems that Samsung improved the displays afterwards by quite a bit then.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Nov 30 2015, 04:23 PM
digitalz
post Nov 30 2015, 06:54 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Nov 30 2015, 01:52 PM)
Or you can just use a Note 3/S4 or above set to Pro-Photo or Cinema display mode - it's got a pretty accurate display under these settings... at least according to DisplayMate.

At least until the AMOLED screen starts to degrade (which it does lol).

digitalz It's a good enough cam for a beginner (the A5000) but if you have any intention to seriously explore photography, the A6000 is a much better cam to start with.

If you want the best camera in the smallest package though, the A5100 is worth considering.

Well... at least amongst the Interchangeable Mirrorless cams anyway. If you don't need/want lens changing (or a bigger sensor) the RX100 series is often good enough for something so much smaller.
*
Wow. Thanks for the advice. Looking at A6000 as well. Double cashback at my place here. There's no cashback for A5000 though. That price diff ~.~

RX100 series, which though? My friends were comparing about them and some say actually rx100 ii is good enough. But another guy said that actually RX10 can be a good option too.
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post Nov 30 2015, 08:00 PM

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I found Samsung's phone to be too damn saturated to be accurate. Does those colour mode make it less saturated?
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post Nov 30 2015, 08:13 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 30 2015, 08:00 PM)
I found Samsung's phone to be too damn saturated to be accurate. Does those colour mode make it less saturated?
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Apparently. Some of the colour modes also make things look brown-er (especially under certain brightness levels... read below) - though I do understand that "correct" white isn't the blueish white everybody has gotten rather used to (FYI, while not being as bad as the rest, Apple stuff usually have more "blueish" white-points as well at around 7000k).

Unfortunately, "Adept Display" (the default setting) does generally go overboard with the colours though lol, which is probably the basis of this whole Samsung = Oversaturation thing. Turn it to the other modes and you should get much less colour bleeding from your eyes.

However, the bigger problem with AMOLEDs is that colour accuracy is particularly affected by brightness levels in a way that isn't as "linear" as it is with LCDs. Things tend to look even more "brown-er" (than it already is) the lower you go on brightness... which means that "colour accuracy" can be quite variable across brightness settings.

Pretty much throws AMOLED "colour accuracy" into the blender when you turn auto-brightness on lol.

That said, things do look "good enough" for me on my N3 under "Pro-Photo" mode 90% of the time... as long as the auto-brightness stays at a reasonable point anyway. At least it looks a heck of a lot better than my crappy laptop LCD.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 1 2015, 04:13 AM
NightFelix
post Nov 30 2015, 09:11 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Nov 30 2015, 08:00 PM)
I found Samsung's phone to be too damn saturated to be accurate. Does those colour mode make it less saturated?
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There are screen settings in the Samsung Amoled display. Default are very saturated. Need to tweak it.
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post Nov 30 2015, 09:55 PM

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post Dec 1 2015, 07:53 AM

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By the way, which reminds me, I'm going to sell the Kata Sling Backpack that I got from EngTong. It's brand new, unused, less than 3 months old, warranty with EngTong directly. Opening it to members here before I'm going public with it. You may refer to KATA Sling Backpack for more references and the original pricing of the pack. Reason for selling? I still prefer my Think Tank Retrospective. Let me know if anyone interested. Thank you, thank you.
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post Dec 1 2015, 08:38 PM

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so finally sold my sigma 60mm as well.
need to fully utilize my 1670 before planning to get prime lens.
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post Dec 2 2015, 12:53 AM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Dec 1 2015, 07:53 AM)
By the way, which reminds me, I'm going to sell the Kata Sling Backpack that I got from EngTong. It's brand new, unused, less than 3 months old, warranty with EngTong directly. Opening it to members here before I'm going public with it. You may refer to KATA Sling Backpack for more references and the original pricing of the pack. Reason for selling? I still prefer my Think Tank Retrospective. Let me know if anyone interested. Thank you, thank you.
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How much are you selling btw? Will it be too big for mirrorless?
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post Dec 2 2015, 07:24 AM

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QUOTE(nixonyang @ Dec 2 2015, 12:53 AM)
How much are you selling btw? Will it be too big for mirrorless?
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I got it during the photog fair in MV back then at RM321. Even though I never used it before, it's still a "used" unit. So, it'll definitely be lower than RM321. I'm with NEX6, which I think is just right. Cam at the bottom compartment, with extra lens, if any. Top compartment can fit it any other accessories or whatever else that you're carrying; camera bag don't necessary carry a camera only maaa... There is a compartment for iPad/tablet, too.
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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Dec 2 2015, 08:24 AM)
I got it during the photog fair in MV back then at RM321. Even though I never used it before, it's still a "used" unit. So, it'll definitely be lower than RM321. I'm with NEX6, which I think is just right. Cam at the bottom compartment, with extra lens, if any. Top compartment can fit it any other accessories or whatever else that you're carrying; camera bag don't necessary carry a camera only maaa... There is a compartment for iPad/tablet, too.
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So how much are you selling
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post Dec 3 2015, 07:14 AM

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vmh90
post Dec 3 2015, 12:34 PM

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hi is a6000 with zeiss 32mm f1.8 a good combo? or i should go for Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm f/1.8 ZA?
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post Dec 3 2015, 03:14 PM

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QUOTE(vmh90 @ Dec 3 2015, 12:34 PM)
hi is a6000 with zeiss 32mm f1.8 a good combo? or i should go for Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm f/1.8 ZA?
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For your case the A6000 + Touit 32 SHOULD be a better combo, as it provides a near 50mm FF equivalent AOV. The AF is slightly slower and noisier with the Touit though, plus it lacks OSS (both compared to the SEL35... my personal fave for that particular FL on E-mount APS-C).

It SHOULD, unless you prefer a longer lens...

The FE55 is only worth it if you DO prefer the slightly longer (circa 80mm Equivalent AOV) reach of the FE55. Even then it's arguable if the increased optical and AF performance of the FE55 is worth the extra compared to the almost as good SEL50 (which also has OSS, albeit with slightly lower optical/AF peformance).

But between the two, for normal walkarounds, of course the Touit 32. It's a much more versatile focal length.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 3 2015, 03:18 PM
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post Dec 3 2015, 03:44 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 3 2015, 03:14 PM)
For your case the A6000 + Touit 32 SHOULD be a better combo, as it provides a near 50mm FF equivalent AOV. The AF is slightly slower and noisier with the Touit though, plus it lacks OSS (both compared to the SEL35... my personal fave for that particular FL on E-mount APS-C).

It SHOULD, unless you prefer a longer lens...

The FE55 is only worth it if you DO prefer the slightly longer (circa 80mm Equivalent AOV) reach of the FE55. Even then it's arguable if the increased optical and AF performance of the FE55 is worth the extra compared to the almost as good SEL50 (which also has OSS, albeit with slightly lower optical/AF peformance).

But between the two, for normal walkarounds, of course the Touit 32. It's a much more versatile focal length.
*
image quality btw sony own 35mm with oss and touit 32, the later one stand out a lot, not sure the oss is really useful or not. many zeiss lens don't have oss but produce superior quality too.
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post Dec 3 2015, 04:15 PM

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QUOTE(vmh90 @ Dec 3 2015, 12:34 PM)
hi is a6000 with zeiss 32mm f1.8 a good combo? or i should go for Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm f/1.8 ZA?
*
There's no Zeiss 32mm f1.8 that I know of. Maybe you meant Zeiss 35mm f2.8 but that's a full frame lens. A6000 is a APS-C camera. Not to say cannot use but just so you know. 35mm would be like a 50mm lens for APS-C.
There is an APS-C 35mm f1.8 with OSS but it's not Zeiss

The FE 55mm is also a full frame lens. If you put this on your A6000, its like having a 80mm short tele lens already

This post has been edited by idoblu: Dec 3 2015, 04:24 PM
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post Dec 3 2015, 04:26 PM

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QUOTE(vmh90 @ Dec 3 2015, 03:44 PM)
image quality btw sony own 35mm with oss and touit 32, the later one stand out a lot, not sure the oss is really useful or not. many zeiss lens don't have oss but produce superior quality too.
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Yeah I know. But honestly speaking, IQ is as much lens quality as it is what you do (and CAN do) with it. A lens with OSS allows you to shoot sharp images at significantly slower shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures than a lens without OSS - which might or might not be useful for you.

That said, the SEL35 (the "Sony 35mm") - as good value as it is - isn't objectively as sharp nor has the "Zeiss" colours of the Touit. It also exhibits a lot more CA and LoCA (magenta fringing and green bokeh transitions). On the plus side I do personally find the SEL35 bokeh to be superior (besides the annoying LoCA) to the Touit, which can be a bit "lumpy" as far as bokeh goes.

But is the Touit "better"? Like I said, you have to factor in the fact that the Touit has slower (and noisier) AF and no OSS. If both of these caveats is not an issue to you, than the Touit is a fine choice.

To be fair, the "noisy" AF and lack of OSS is only really a MAJOR problem if you plan to take videos (trust me, you DON'T want to take vidoes without OSS... and the AF noise is clearly beyond "subtle"). Otherwise it's just a minor annoyance.

The slower AF might turn out to be more than just an annoyance though. But, as always, YMMV.

In short, the Touit is a very, very good lens. But, like everything else in life, there are often no absolutes (one lens being "the best") as far as lens choice is concerned. It's always a matter of needs and sacrifices.

And in your case, unless you need to take videos as much as photos, the Touit 32 is a very good choice vs the FE55Z. If not simply due to the fact that the 55 becomes an awkward short tele (80-ish mm FF Equivalent) on the A6000.

As for the SEL35 vs the Touit 32, it depends. Like I said, if you don't mind the slightly slower (and significantly louder) AF, the lumpier bokeh and the lack of OSS, then of course the Touit 32 "wins".

idoblu The Touit 1.8/32 Planar for E-mount APS-C IS a Zeiss. It's probably even more a Zeiss than the Sony Zeisses in the sense that it's actually "made by" Zeiss (vs the Sonys which are licensed by Zeiss and made by Sony... though like the Batises and Loxias, the Touits are actually manufactured by Cosina).

BTW, there's a Zeiss Touit 2.8/12 Distagon and a Touit 2.8/50M Planar Macro as well and they are all made for APS-C (E-mount and X-mount).

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 3 2015, 04:54 PM
vmh90
post Dec 3 2015, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Dec 3 2015, 04:15 PM)
There's no Zeiss 32mm f1.8 that I know of. Maybe you meant Zeiss 35mm f2.8 but that's a full frame lens. A6000 is a APS-C camera. Not to say cannot use but just so you know. 35mm would be like a 50mm lens for APS-C.
There is an APS-C 35mm f1.8 with OSS but it's not Zeiss

The FE 55mm is also a full frame lens. If you put this on your A6000, its like having a 80mm short tele lens already
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so it's my body too cheap for expensive lens? lol..

here u go, zeiss 32mm 1.8 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/9708..._32_e_lens.html
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post Dec 3 2015, 05:16 PM

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QUOTE(vmh90 @ Dec 3 2015, 05:06 PM)
so it's my body too cheap for expensive lens? lol..

here u go, zeiss 32mm 1.8 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/9708..._32_e_lens.html
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ive fixed expensive ZM Zeiss lenses in my cheap Nex C3 last time, I see no issue with expensive lens on cheap body
oh i thought you meant Sony Zeiss.....I think the Touit 32mm is more suitable then. Thats just me.
48mm vs 80mm - ask yourself which focal length you want
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post Dec 3 2015, 05:21 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 3 2015, 04:26 PM)


idoblu The Touit 1.8/32 Planar for E-mount APS-C IS a Zeiss. It's probably even more a Zeiss than the Sony Zeisses in the sense that it's actually "made by" Zeiss (vs the Sonys which are licensed by Zeiss and made by Sony... though like the Batises and Loxias, the Touits are actually manufactured by Cosina).

BTW, there's a Zeiss Touit 2.8/12 Distagon and a Touit 2.8/50M Planar Macro as well and they are all made for APS-C (E-mount and X-mount).
*
oh yeah bro, i forgot about the Touit.... tongue.gif

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post Dec 3 2015, 05:42 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Dec 3 2015, 05:21 PM)
oh yeah bro, i forgot about the Touit.... tongue.gif
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No problem. Prolly you've been running FF too long edi lol.

I'm still stuck to my APSC bodies (until Sony comes up with a smaller, cheaper FF body) so I guess I just had to keep track of both APSC and FF lenses.

The fact that I could EVEN keep track probably just means we (E-mount) are still not up to N/C/M43 (or even Alpha) levels of lens variety... yet.
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post Dec 3 2015, 06:51 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 3 2015, 05:42 PM)
No problem. Prolly you've been running FF too long edi lol.

I'm still stuck to my APSC bodies (until Sony comes up with a smaller, cheaper FF body) so I guess I just had to keep track of both APSC and FF lenses.

The fact that I could EVEN keep track probably just means we (E-mount) are still not up to N/C/M43 (or even Alpha) levels of lens variety... yet.
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Seriously I get them all mixed up - loxia, touit, batis. Maybe cause I mentally block them since I can't afford these blush.gif biggrin.gif
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post Dec 3 2015, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Dec 3 2015, 06:51 PM)
Seriously I get them all mixed up - loxia, touit, batis. Maybe cause I mentally block them since I can't afford these  blush.gif  biggrin.gif
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Lol... true. I can't afford much of them either lol, the starving hobbyist that I am.

Mentally blocking stuff seem to be a fairly effective way of combating G.A.S though - unfortunately for poor gearhead me, I'm addicted to raw data so not knowing about stuff isn't really a viable option lol.

Which also leads to me having to put my credit card in the freezer (literally)... you know... just because lol.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 3 2015, 07:03 PM
digitalz
post Dec 3 2015, 07:16 PM

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Haih. Now I am torn between buying the a5000 and the a6000 again. - -"

Someone recommended that I use the money to get an a5000 + kit lens + a Sigma 30mm f/2.8 DN A Standard Prime Lens.

So now, what's the recommendation of the sifus here? Thanks!
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post Dec 3 2015, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 3 2015, 07:16 PM)
Haih. Now I am torn between buying the a5000 and the a6000 again. - -"

Someone recommended that I use the money to get an a5000 + kit lens + a Sigma 30mm f/2.8 DN A Standard Prime Lens.

So now, what's the recommendation of the sifus here? Thanks!
*
I chose a6000 because of 1 reason : viewfinder
vmh90
post Dec 3 2015, 09:34 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 3 2015, 04:26 PM)
Yeah I know. But honestly speaking, IQ is as much lens quality as it is what you do (and CAN do) with it. A lens with OSS allows you to shoot sharp images at significantly slower shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures than a lens without OSS - which might or might not be useful for you.

That said, the SEL35 (the "Sony 35mm") - as good value as it is - isn't objectively as sharp nor has the "Zeiss" colours of the Touit. It also exhibits a lot more CA and LoCA (magenta fringing and green bokeh transitions). On the plus side I do personally find the SEL35 bokeh to be superior (besides the annoying LoCA) to the Touit, which can be a bit "lumpy" as far as bokeh goes.

But is the Touit "better"? Like I said, you have to factor in the fact that the Touit has slower (and noisier) AF and no OSS. If both of these caveats is not an issue to you, than the Touit is a fine choice.

To be fair, the "noisy" AF and lack of OSS is only really a MAJOR problem if you plan to take videos (trust me, you DON'T want to take vidoes without OSS... and the AF noise is clearly beyond "subtle"). Otherwise it's just a minor annoyance.

The slower AF might turn out to be more than just an annoyance though. But, as always, YMMV.

In short, the Touit is a very, very good lens. But, like everything else in life, there are often no absolutes (one lens being "the best") as far as lens choice is concerned. It's always a matter of needs and sacrifices.

And in your case, unless you need to take videos as much as photos, the Touit 32 is a very good choice vs the FE55Z. If not simply due to the fact that the 55 becomes an awkward short tele (80-ish mm FF Equivalent) on the A6000.

As for the SEL35 vs the Touit 32, it depends. Like I said, if you don't mind the slightly slower (and significantly louder) AF, the lumpier bokeh and the lack of OSS, then of course the Touit 32 "wins".

idoblu The Touit 1.8/32 Planar for E-mount APS-C IS a Zeiss. It's probably even more a Zeiss than the Sony Zeisses in the sense that it's actually "made by" Zeiss (vs the Sonys which are licensed by Zeiss and made by Sony... though like the Batises and Loxias, the Touits are actually manufactured by Cosina).

BTW, there's a Zeiss Touit 2.8/12 Distagon and a Touit 2.8/50M Planar Macro as well and they are all made for APS-C (E-mount and X-mount).
*
Touit was born in 2 years back, 2013. I don't understand, how lens evolves. will they one day come out with a 32mm f.18 zeiss v2?
digitalz
post Dec 3 2015, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(vmh90 @ Dec 3 2015, 09:34 PM)
Touit was born in 2 years back, 2013. I don't understand, how lens evolves. will they one day come out with a 32mm f.18 zeiss v2?
*
Lol. I am not too fussy for now. I can go with Sigma 30mm f/2.8 since it's cheaper. Either that or 19mm for landscape shots too.

But then again. 1.8 and 2.8 big difference too. sweat.gif

This post has been edited by digitalz: Dec 3 2015, 09:38 PM
vmh90
post Dec 3 2015, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 3 2015, 09:36 PM)
Lol. I am not too fussy for now. I can go with Sigma 30mm f/2.8 since it's cheaper. Either that or 19mm for landscape shots too.

But then again. 1.8 and 2.8 big difference too. sweat.gif
*
the more new or expensive the lens is, the better xD u cannot feel it with getting a new body, but u can feel it buying new lenses

This post has been edited by vmh90: Dec 3 2015, 09:45 PM
kmarc
post Dec 3 2015, 11:24 PM

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Just got my a7ii with 55F1.8z. Compared to my old a550, all I can say is WOW! The photos are so sharp and the depth of field can be so narrow. Of course, first time I'm holding a FF camera with a Zeiss lens. blush.gif

Also bought the hotshoe adapter as I'm using back my F58 first. See whether I want to change to native flash next time.

Still waiting for the 28F20 as stocks haven't arrive. For now, need to read the manual and get familiar with this camera..... nod.gif
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post Dec 3 2015, 11:40 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Dec 2 2015, 07:24 AM)
I got it during the photog fair in MV back then at RM321. Even though I never used it before, it's still a "used" unit. So, it'll definitely be lower than RM321. I'm with NEX6, which I think is just right. Cam at the bottom compartment, with extra lens, if any. Top compartment can fit it any other accessories or whatever else that you're carrying; camera bag don't necessary carry a camera only maaa... There is a compartment for iPad/tablet, too.
*
Thanks for introducing this offer to us but i'm not buying it for now biggrin.gif
Eiraku
post Dec 4 2015, 12:12 AM

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QUOTE(vmh90 @ Dec 3 2015, 09:34 PM)
Touit was born in 2 years back, 2013. I don't understand, how lens evolves. will they one day come out with a 32mm f.18 zeiss v2?
*
Not sure where I mentioned anything about any lens evolving. But on that end, it's very improbable that the Touit will EVER get a "V2"... simply because APSC isn't really Sony's main cash cow now - and lens makers ain't gonna continue making brand spanking new glass for niche products.

Hence the Batises and Loxias - which is actually just more Cosina Zeisses... for FF.

And Fuji is more than competent enough in releasing great glass for X-mount so they're not gonna make much leeway on that side either.

So yeah, the Touits already out there (12, 32, 50M) are the end of the line already, as far as Zeiss APSC-only stuff goes.

And BTW, a 1.8/32 on APSC and 1.8/50 on FF will NOT have similar bokeh. They will have similar AOV (Angle of View - thanks to the APSC sensor cropping the 32mm lens by 1.5x), but bokeh will be different.

digitalz It all depends on your need for an EVF (A6000) or a "better" sensor (A6000/A5100 - same sensor).

If you don't think you're gonna need either, then do get the A5000 + the Sigma 30 (which is a great lens BTW... if not a bit slow at 2.8).

kmarc Great to hear you're enjoying your upgrade Bro! And yeah, the jump to FF can be a bit jarring... especially if you have never shot analog before.

Have lotsa fun shooting!

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 4 2015, 12:23 AM
vmh90
post Dec 4 2015, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 4 2015, 12:12 AM)
Not sure where I mentioned anything about any lens evolving. But on that end, it's very improbable that the Touit will EVER get a "V2"... simply because APSC isn't really Sony's main cash cow now - and lens makers ain't gonna continue making brand spanking new glass for niche products.

Hence the Batises and Loxias - which is actually just more Cosina Zeisses... for FF.

And Fuji is more than competent enough in releasing great glass for X-mount so they're not gonna make much leeway on that side either.

So yeah, the Touits already out there (12, 32, 50M) are the end of the line already, as far as Zeiss APSC-only stuff goes.
tq for your input. these 'old' lens price are dropping in amazon (US) but here in Malaysia they're still selling previous price, any idea how to get the best price? If i do international shipping from US, I still can get cheaper price than buying locally.

or better, buy from taobao? http://world.taobao.com/item/524097871807....0.AFGAkE#detail

This post has been edited by vmh90: Dec 4 2015, 12:27 AM
digitalz
post Dec 4 2015, 01:52 AM

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I gave in to the 6000 and the kit lens. Hello hello. Let me charge it full first then click click click we go!
Eiraku
post Dec 4 2015, 04:34 AM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 01:52 AM)
I gave in to the 6000 and the kit lens. Hello hello. Let me charge it full first then click click click we go!
*
Hey ho welcome to another happy Sony camper! Have fun with your new purchase...

... and try not to give into G.A.S (aka buying more stuff you don't really actually need) within your first 100 photos. Though it's usually easier said than done lol.

Also don't forget to update your "Apps" on the camera and the camera firmware itself - if it's not at ver. 2.00 already.
digitalz
post Dec 4 2015, 07:20 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 4 2015, 04:34 AM)
Hey ho welcome to another happy Sony camper! Have fun with your new purchase...

... and try not to give into G.A.S (aka buying more stuff you don't really actually need) within your first 100 photos. Though it's usually easier said than done lol.

Also don't forget to update your "Apps" on the camera and the camera firmware itself - if it's not at ver. 2.00 already.
*
Haha. I'm not the type that will go on and buy buy buy. And yeah, it's already 2.0.

Questions now:
1. Anyone using external charger and extra batteries? If so, what brand?
2. Anyone has a recommendation of a bag/pouch or something small that I can slip into my current bag?

Thanks!

This post has been edited by digitalz: Dec 4 2015, 08:40 AM
IwanAGP
post Dec 4 2015, 09:08 AM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 07:20 AM)
Haha. I'm not the type that will go on and buy buy buy. And yeah, it's already 2.0.

Questions now:
1. Anyone using external charger and extra batteries? If so, what brand?
2. Anyone has a recommendation of a bag/pouch or something small that I can slip into my current bag?

Thanks!
*
1. I think they will say Kingmax. Charge 2 batteries at once.
2. I'm using sony free bag which can just fit A6000+lens (up to 18-55 I think)+spare battery+spare cards

Just throw it inside my normal backpack.
idoblu
post Dec 4 2015, 09:25 AM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 07:20 AM)
Haha. I'm not the type that will go on and buy buy buy. And yeah, it's already 2.0.

Questions now:
1. Anyone using external charger and extra batteries? If so, what brand?
2. Anyone has a recommendation of a bag/pouch or something small that I can slip into my current bag?

Thanks!
*
1. get the original sony charger - BC-TRW
2. im using a insert, its like the inside pouches of a camera bag but without the outside bag itself. You can then put the insert in any backpack or slingbag - http://www.billingham.co.uk/accessories/ha...all-insert.html
IazHes
post Dec 4 2015, 09:43 AM

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QUOTE(vmh90 @ Dec 3 2015, 09:31 PM)
I chose a6000 because of 1 reason : viewfinder
*
The reason for me as well

QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 01:52 AM)
I gave in to the 6000 and the kit lens. Hello hello. Let me charge it full first then click click click we go!
*
Welcome to A6000 world

QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 07:20 AM)
Haha. I'm not the type that will go on and buy buy buy. And yeah, it's already 2.0.

Questions now:
1. Anyone using external charger and extra batteries? If so, what brand?
2. Anyone has a recommendation of a bag/pouch or something small that I can slip into my current bag?

Thanks!
*
1. not using extra battery, but I using XiaoMi 5000mAh power bank to charge it while i travel outside.
2. Sony normal bag will able to fit in your camera & extra 1~2 lens would be enough, unless youre going for a big big bag. i bought a sony back @ RM50 at lowyat B1 sony store. forgot the model ad.
digitalz
post Dec 4 2015, 10:07 AM

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Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately, I am not in Malaysia so.... no bags for me. T.T

IwanAGP is Kingmax good? I've seen complaints that if one charges both at once, it might be very slow.

idoblu wah Billingham. Damn good quality but price T.T

IazHez Would it be sufficient for one whole day of shooting?
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post Dec 4 2015, 10:34 AM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 07:20 AM)
Haha. I'm not the type that will go on and buy buy buy. And yeah, it's already 2.0.

Questions now:
1. Anyone using external charger and extra batteries? If so, what brand?
2. Anyone has a recommendation of a bag/pouch or something small that I can slip into my current bag?

Thanks!
*
Few posts back by me:

Just did a not very scientific test of original battery and third party battery.

Test methodology & result
Sony A7M2 on tripod 1/100 ISO3200 XAVC S 60p 50M Lens cap ON / Monitor ON / SteadyShot ON
Model Sony NP FW-50 Octopus FW50
Time recorded 95min 43sec 63min 20sec
Price RM140 RM50

So yeah, original battery definitely better performance but it depends on your usage. If you're not shooting professionally (as in earning real bucks from your photography) then I see no reason going for original batteries.

I also own the Kingma not Kingmax USB dual battery charger. Takes almost 4 hours to fully charge both original batteries from 0% charge. Octopus FW50 takes about 3 hours to charge fully from 0% as well.
NLCH880215
post Dec 4 2015, 10:48 AM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 08:20 AM)
Haha. I'm not the type that will go on and buy buy buy. And yeah, it's already 2.0.

Questions now:
1. Anyone using external charger and extra batteries? If so, what brand?
2. Anyone has a recommendation of a bag/pouch or something small that I can slip into my current bag?

Thanks!
*
i am using the kingmas usb type. i have two original battery which came with my camera. and i charge them by using xiaomi 16000mah battery bank when outstation. seen no problem for me. for full day using normally i use one battery in camera and other one is on the charger to be charged when it's drain out. Of cz if charge slow when you charge two battery at the same time, unless you use wall plug it will be another story.

This post has been edited by NLCH880215: Dec 4 2015, 10:49 AM
Eiraku
post Dec 4 2015, 11:11 AM

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digitalz As with the rest, the one I prefer (and cart around as part of my Nomad kit) is the Kingma dual USB charger, as it's tiny but charges 2 batteries (reliably) at once.

You'll need a solid 1A (minimum) USB power source for it though - normal Samsung chargers for instance.

As for camera inserts, just eBay for "camera insert" and enjoice with the variety of cheapo inserts. They should generally be good enough. If you need to get from a physical shop, one that I know that usually has some in stock is Digicolor at Mutiara Complex Jln. Ipoh.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 4 2015, 11:13 AM
idoblu
post Dec 4 2015, 12:37 PM

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QUOTE(IazHes @ Dec 4 2015, 09:43 AM)
The reason for me as well
Welcome to A6000 world
1. not using extra battery, but I using XiaoMi 5000mAh power bank to charge it while i travel outside.
2. Sony normal bag will able to fit in your camera & extra 1~2 lens would be enough, unless youre going for a big big bag. i bought a sony back @ RM50 at lowyat B1 sony store. forgot the model ad.
*
Does the camera indicate that it is charging when you are using the powerbank?

I wonder where to buy a dual battery charger using USB (not 240V). That way I can charge two batteries at one go when plug into a power bank and so I can charge it off camera

user posted image

This post has been edited by idoblu: Dec 4 2015, 12:37 PM
Eiraku
post Dec 4 2015, 12:38 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Dec 4 2015, 12:37 PM)
Does the camera indicate that it is charging when you are using the powerbank?

I wonder where to buy a dual battery charger using USB (not 240V). That way I can charge two batteries at one go when plug into a power bank and so I can charge it off camera

user posted image
*
The Kingma actually charges from a powerbank lol. Just that you need a 1A minimum capable powerbank.

That was the main reason why I got them, so that I could use them with my powerbanks and USB multi-charger - thus decreasing my travel load.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 4 2015, 12:39 PM
idoblu
post Dec 4 2015, 12:38 PM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 4 2015, 11:11 AM)
digitalz As with the rest, the one I prefer (and cart around as part of my Nomad kit) is the Kingma dual USB charger, as it's tiny but charges 2 batteries (reliably) at once.

You'll need a solid 1A (minimum) USB power source for it though - normal Samsung chargers for instance.

As for camera inserts, just eBay for "camera insert" and enjoice with the variety of cheapo inserts. They should generally be good enough. If you need to get from a physical shop, one that I know that usually has some in stock is Digicolor at Mutiara Complex Jln. Ipoh.
*
where did you buy the kingmax again?
NLCH880215
post Dec 4 2015, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(idoblu @ Dec 4 2015, 01:38 PM)
where did you buy the kingmax again?
*
http://www.lazada.com.my/kingma-dual-usb-b...-5-2930052.html here have
asrul
post Dec 4 2015, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 01:52 AM)
I gave in to the 6000 and the kit lens. Hello hello. Let me charge it full first then click click click we go!
*
throw away that kit lens and buy 16-70 brows.gif
bdrc
post Dec 4 2015, 02:39 PM

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Spams of different lenses with a6000 again~

50mm f/1.4 vs 35mm f/2

user posted imageHanayo X Rin by RICO Lee, on Flickr

and 30mm f/4

user posted imageRemilia Scarlet by RICO Lee, on Flickr

then 11mm f/8

user posted imageThe Door To Our Dreams by RICO Lee, on Flickr
IazHes
post Dec 4 2015, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 4 2015, 10:07 AM)
Thanks for all the replies. Unfortunately, I am not in Malaysia so.... no bags for me. T.T

IwanAGP is Kingmax good? I've seen complaints that if one charges both at once, it might be very slow.

idoblu wah Billingham. Damn good quality but price T.T

IazHez Would it be sufficient for one whole day of shooting?
*
For me still ok, when on road or travel, just put it to charge. Battery size just around 600mAh, 1 Xiaomi 5000mAh can charge how many times? let yourself do the math. :-)

QUOTE(idoblu @ Dec 4 2015, 12:37 PM)
Does the camera indicate that it is charging when you are using the powerbank?

I wonder where to buy a dual battery charger using USB (not 240V). That way I can charge two batteries at one go when plug into a power bank and so I can charge it off camera

user posted image
*
Yes, the camera will have orange light beside A6000 microusb2 port.
Eiraku
post Dec 4 2015, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(IazHes @ Dec 4 2015, 03:58 PM)
Yes, the camera will have orange light beside A6000 microusb2 port.
*
Buuuuuuuut... the A6000 (or any USB charging NEX/A-series prior to the A7rII) unfortunately shuts down when charging so you can't actually use it WHILE hooked up to a powerbank (unless you wire a dummy battery to a 12v power bank... but that's an entirely different story). Just in case anybody's wondering.

The A7rII/A7sII DOES allow use while USB charging though (yay)... and if Sony is generous they might even give the A7II the same ability through a firmware update (they're already gonna give you guys uncompressed RAWs + full multipoint PDAF with the LE-EA3/Canon AF adapter... so why not?).

It all depends on Sony though.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 4 2015, 05:25 PM
FirstAidKit
post Dec 4 2015, 09:37 PM

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Hi guys. I am planning to have a trip to Bangkok and Seoul in next year. My Xiaomi Mi3 camera is meh... and I decide to buy myself a decent camera for my trips.

So sifu, what's your recommendation? Mainly will be using it to shoot scenery pics. Should I buy a DSLR or mirrorless will do? And what's the significant difference between them? My budget is around RM 2.5K max.

From what I see, a lot people recommend Sony A6000, what is so special for it? Thanks smile.gif
Eiraku
post Dec 4 2015, 10:34 PM

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QUOTE(FirstAidKit @ Dec 4 2015, 09:37 PM)
Hi guys. I am planning to have a trip to Bangkok and Seoul in next year. My Xiaomi Mi3 camera is meh... and I decide to buy myself a decent camera for my trips.

So sifu, what's your recommendation? Mainly will be using it to shoot scenery pics. Should I buy a DSLR or mirrorless will do? And what's the significant difference between them? My budget is around RM 2.5K max.

From what I see, a lot people recommend Sony A6000, what is so special for it? Thanks smile.gif
*
First question, do you WANT a viewfinder (that small screen you peep into)?

Second question, do you plan to EVER use an external flash?

If you said NO to both, save your dough for better lenses and get the A5100. It's probably the best camera in the smallest package I've ever seen (that has a large-ish sensor). It's also got a touchscreen and is very easy to work with.

If you said YES to any of the above, you're probably better off with the A6000. You have enough budget to get the kit, and that is good enough... at least to start with. The learning curve that comes with the A6000 CAN be a bit steep (if you wanna fully utilise it ler... if you don't you can always stick it in AUTO), but it's a very capable small camera.

Also another camera to consider, especially if you want something EVEN SMALLER: The RX100... at least one of the older models - the latest is quite expensive. Its got a smaller sensor than the mirrorless bunch (bigger than your phone though) but is infinitely more pocketable.

As for a normal DSLR... if you travel a lot the size and weight benefits of Mirrorless make DSLRs almost (almost) irrelevant. There are things that DSLRs STILL do better of course, but for normal travel and landscape purposes a full-sized DSLR is often overkill.

Just my 20 sens anyway.

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 5 2015, 03:38 AM
digitalz
post Dec 5 2015, 03:44 AM

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Need to ask again on whether if FirstAidKit likes to take selfie or not. If yes, then a6000 might not be suitable for you. The screen cannot go 180 degrees.

Problems with DSLR - Heavier than mirrorless, sometimes more equipments to bring along too.

[An update - I ordered a messenger bag style camera bag + Newmowa charger/batteries as a spare. Will update again once I get them and start to use them.]

This post has been edited by digitalz: Dec 5 2015, 03:45 AM
Silverfire
post Dec 5 2015, 10:08 PM

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Shot a wedding today, was able to squeeze out 1500 shots with 2 original batteries. Monitor and SteadyShot off tongue.gif
Eiraku
post Dec 5 2015, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Dec 5 2015, 10:08 PM)
Shot a wedding today, was able to squeeze out 1500 shots with 2 original batteries. Monitor and SteadyShot off tongue.gif
*
TBH, in theory the EVF actually sucks MORE juice than the screen lol. It's actually in the manual somewhere.

So yeah, when you need to stretch your batteries - airplane mode and screen only lol.

But, 1500 shots on an A7ii... that's a whole damn lot woo. Did you shoot 100% with the Loxia? Cause the Loxia also saves battery (no use of focusing motors at all).

This post has been edited by Eiraku: Dec 5 2015, 11:07 PM
Silverfire
post Dec 6 2015, 12:19 AM

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QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 5 2015, 11:06 PM)
TBH, in theory the EVF actually sucks MORE juice than the screen lol. It's actually in the manual somewhere.

So yeah, when you need to stretch your batteries - airplane mode and screen only lol.

But, 1500 shots on an A7ii... that's a whole damn lot woo. Did you shoot 100% with the Loxia? Cause the Loxia also saves battery (no use of focusing motors at all).
*
When you use Auto, monitor is always on unless you use the viewfinder. However if you do viewfinder only, viewfinder is only on when you look into in. So when nothing covers the viewfinder proximity sensor its off.

I shot with Sony FE28F20, Canon EF 50 F1.4 and Carl Zeiss Planar 85 F1.4. Only the FE28F20 was running with AF. Here's some result tongue.gif

user posted imageDSC02937-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC02961-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC03260-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC02966-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC03323-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC03223-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC03018-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr
user posted imageDSC03243-2p by Chia Way Tan, on Flickr

This post has been edited by Silverfire: Dec 6 2015, 12:21 AM
porkchop
post Dec 6 2015, 01:11 AM

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heh heh new haul

Attached Image
Eiraku
post Dec 6 2015, 05:52 AM

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QUOTE(Silverfire @ Dec 6 2015, 12:19 AM)
When you use Auto, monitor is always on unless you use the viewfinder. However if you do viewfinder only, viewfinder is only on when you look into in. So when nothing covers the viewfinder proximity sensor its off.

I shot with Sony FE28F20, Canon EF 50 F1.4 and Carl Zeiss Planar 85 F1.4. Only the FE28F20 was running with AF. Here's some result tongue.gif
*
That... is actually a very good point. Even with the EVF sucking more power, I forget that it's not on all the time unlike with screen only mode.

And nice pics BTW... Especially the first one.
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post Dec 6 2015, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(porkchop @ Dec 6 2015, 01:11 AM)
heh heh new haul

Attached Image
*
Wah I super jealous vmad.gif vmad.gif vmad.gif

QUOTE(Eiraku @ Dec 6 2015, 05:52 AM)
That... is actually a very good point. Even with the EVF sucking more power, I forget that it's not on all the time unlike with screen only mode.

And nice pics BTW... Especially the first one.
*
And easier focus peaking with EVF too brows.gif

Thanks, been almost a year since I shot a wedding thumbup.gif
digitalz
post Dec 6 2015, 09:19 PM

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I very jelly too. Those pics.

Peeps, just wondering for those of you that uses flickr. Will flickr automatically put in the description of the photos that we took after we have uploaded them there?
philipcs
post Dec 6 2015, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 6 2015, 09:19 PM)
I very jelly too. Those pics.

Peeps, just wondering for those of you that uses flickr. Will flickr automatically put in the description of the photos that we took after we have uploaded them there?
*
Do you meant Exif info? If yes, then it will.
digitalz
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QUOTE(philipcs @ Dec 6 2015, 09:37 PM)
Do you meant Exif info? If yes, then it will.
*
Now that's weird. Mine doesn't seem to show. Can anyone recommend any softwares for Mac? I wanna maintain the Exif info while slightly editing my shots. Pixlr doesn't seem to show that.
beplouis76
post Dec 7 2015, 12:29 AM

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Just asking.

Anyone had experienced buy lens at taobao?

I am looking for SEL3518.
domo_kun
post Dec 7 2015, 07:22 AM

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Anyone gone chasing for Aurora Borealis before? hmm.gif
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post Dec 7 2015, 09:04 AM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 6 2015, 11:06 PM)
Now that's weird. Mine doesn't seem to show. Can anyone recommend any softwares for Mac? I wanna maintain the Exif info while slightly editing my shots. Pixlr doesn't seem to show that.
*
You can try Capture One Express 9 for Sony.

Better & faster processing engine compared to version 8.

https://www.phaseone.com/en/Products/Softwa...ny-Express.aspx




Eiraku
post Dec 7 2015, 01:28 PM

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QUOTE(domo_kun @ Dec 7 2015, 07:22 AM)
Anyone gone chasing for Aurora Borealis before?  hmm.gif
*
Want to but no budget lol. Surprisingly going to Iceland is actually cheaper than going to NZ though.
kizwan
post Dec 7 2015, 02:02 PM

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QUOTE(digitalz @ Dec 6 2015, 11:06 PM)
Now that's weird. Mine doesn't seem to show. Can anyone recommend any softwares for Mac? I wanna maintain the Exif info while slightly editing my shots. Pixlr doesn't seem to show that.
*
Photoshop & Image Data Converter come to mind.
dctravels
post Dec 7 2015, 04:16 PM

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QUOTE(porkchop @ Dec 6 2015, 01:11 AM)
heh heh new haul

Attached Image
*
Can you share where you purchased this from?

vmh90
post Dec 7 2015, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(porkchop @ Dec 6 2015, 01:11 AM)
heh heh new haul

Attached Image
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how much? where u bought? mainly use for..??
SoLiD
post Dec 7 2015, 05:25 PM

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QUOTE(porkchop @ Dec 6 2015, 01:11 AM)
heh heh new haul

Attached Image
*
wow Batis i kena poison so deep on this lens watching Jason Lanier shoot with it

This post has been edited by SoLiD: Dec 7 2015, 05:26 PM
vincentlee90
post Dec 7 2015, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(porkchop @ Dec 6 2015, 01:11 AM)
heh heh new haul

Attached Image
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porky pls don't poison me cry.gif
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post Dec 7 2015, 10:41 PM

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Downloaded Capture One. So many things to learn!

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