i have multiple old R22 ac and my ac installer told me that they just need to change the piping adapter for both ends.
the piping were all concealed in the wall.

weird when he said he will not use any special chemical or nitrogen to flush out

probably a short cut.... but ideally you should use new piping when switching over to new refrigerant type

maybe someone who knows better like stormer.lyn can advise

This is the copper pipe pressure data from Daikin



In theory the thinnest walled copper pipe (0.61 mm) can withstand the pressure in an R32 system. My data tables go until 400 psi for the high pressure side for R32, which is well under the bursting pressure limit. R410 and R32 systems run at similar pressures, so a R410 system should convert to R32 without issues. Opinion: I believe the failure point when using thinner pipe is at the joints, not the actual bursting of the pipes. So I also use Nylog Blue on all the flares.

You can use the incorrect pipe size for the a/cond, but the efficiency (both cooling and electrical) will drop. By how much I can't tell you.
Please note that brazing copper pipe will form copper oxides on the inside if there is normal air inside the tube. You must flow a dry inert gas when brazing. The particles formed by bad brazing is bad for the system. (I use Argon not Nitrogen, because I do a bit of TIG welding, and already have the gas on hand. No need for the cost of additional N₂ gas and tank and flow meter, although Ar is more expensive)

You shouldn't mix lubricating oils. Some lubricating oils are incompatible with each other, for eg PAG and mineral oil. Wear and tear will increase or the compressor may jam. So the tubes must be flushed with solvent before changing refrigeration gas systems. It is not necessary to purge the system with N₂ gas at this point, only during brazing.

And finally, you can't vacuum the system for too much or too long before charging the refrigeration gas.

Any of the above done/not done, will lead to a failure. Maybe in 3 months, maybe in 3 years, maybe in 30 years. I donno cannot say depends on luck, the star sign of the installer, and the phase of the moon.

Dear all, for my hall - I am considering between a non- inverter or inverter 2hp air cond. Since my living room is 40ft x 22ft rectangle design with dining area, I assume having an inverter air cond is not more beneficial than non-inverter as its unlikely to achieve the set temperature due to the open concept of living room.

For open concept room/living room, you can just go for non inverter.

easiest way is to have new piping installed on the wall although it will not be looking nice. too much risks involved and thanks for your valuable inputs

Hope the information helped. Run new surface piping, if done properly, should give you the best results. But like you said is a bit uglier than concealed piping.

Would like to ask sifu's opinion.

I'm trying to decide if an inverter is worth it for the following room and usage:

1) Open concept living-dining-kitchen hall, 45ft x 12ft.
2) Will only turn on maybe 2-3 hours max on hotter days, otherwise rarely use.
3) Has a large balcony window/sliding door.

Would 2HP be sufficient?

Can a 2.0HP unit use the same piping as a 1.5HP unit? My apartment has concealed piping by developer. From the specs they gave out, it is suitable for 1.0 and 1.5. I'm thinking of changing my living room unit to a 2.0 unit coz the 1.5 takes a while to cool down. Living room size is around 22ftx14ft

This post has been edited by spikey2506: May 14 2024, 10:47 PM

Check the existing model for cooper pipe size was 6 and 12mm or 9mm and 16mm diameter, I guess old model 2hp were 9 and 12mm no issues can make use of these

For new R32 model , 1.5hp and 2.0 using same cooper pipe size.

Anyone could share some insight?

Similar setup but my unit longer and wider (landed)

Since your usage only 2-3 hours, forget about inverter. Don’t need it. Because when you turn it on inverter will be at full power to cool the space down. Same as a normal aircon. Plus rarely use. No need.

I have 2.5hp in living, 2hp in dining and 1.5hp in dry kitchen. Rarely turn on the living one. Dining one more than enough. Unless I have party and more ppl.

I recommend Hisense most basic cheapest model. I’ve got a total of 4 of them. For your usage don’t need spend so much. For bedroom on long periods >6 hours I would recommend inverters to better regulate temperature for comfort.

No. Not worth it. That’s like buying a new Tesla to replace your current Myvi which is paid up. New Tesla cost 200k… 200k can buy a lot of petrol for the Myvi lol.

Learn to use dry mode. Setup the aircon to off middle of the night when ambient temperature drop.

Buy a digital thermometer that is able to log and connect to your phone to see the temperature and humidity.

Most importantly, get a fan to circulate air in the room it’ll feel cooler. Ceiling fan is best.

these days I am using dry mode because our humidity gets as high as 80%.

Wow just notice now Aircon also so many model.
Daikin inverter alone got Smarto, FTKM, FTKU, FTKP, FTKF.

Hi. I need daikin 3hp aircond. Area penang. Any vendor got ready stock can install this weekend?

Can you share the specs that shows CU-S18TKH-1 do support wifi Panasonic Comfort Cloud?

The shared link 404'd

EDITED: Actually, I'm trying to figure out if CS-S18TKH-1 can support wifi - built in or add on.

This post has been edited by acesdsi: May 19 2024, 11:01 AM

hi,
wanna ask.. any significant difference between a 4*star inverter and 5*star?
looking at their amperage usage, they're somewhat similar for equal comparison.

so, i believe amperage is not the only factor here, right?

I am already using it. So it works. The Comfort Cloud app is meh. Just call Panasonic Malaysia and ask, save your time.

If your goal is power savings look at Panasonic. If you ask me, not significant. Inverter vs non-inverter for prolonged use e.g. 4 hours or more. And the aircon is not undersized for the room. Then it save energy.

If your inverter aircon is undersized for the room.. then the compressor will run at full capacity trying to cool the room… and it won’t have any power savings.

4-star is usually the low-end model, if the price is not much of a difference, just get the one with a 5-star rating.

Trust me, 5-star inverter is so worth it, my A/C only consume around RM1.20/night, open for 10 hours, set at 24C.

Dry mode is really an underrated feature that not many are aware about, or mostly just dont know what its for

Its very useful for non inverter aircond actually. For me I turn on my 1.5hp non inverter for living room, set at 24/25c for around 1 hour, then once the room is cool enough i switch to dry mode and set it to 26/27c. Helps maintain the coolness and lower power consumption a lot even if its non inverter

But personally I don't recommend using it for bedroom when you are sleeping overnight lah.... you will wake up feeling very dry. For bedroom just get a good inverter and set cool mode 24 - 26c all the way

This post has been edited by ZeneticX: May 19 2024, 09:48 PM

Invest in a thermometer that logs and connect to your phone. You’d be surprised that with an inverter it doesn’t get too dry.

I noticed humidity doesn’t go below 60% so it’s acceptable.