Thanks for the info - it is new to me. I did not know that Proton uses this kind of pulleys.

Now to find out more about this - is the rubber lining some kind of protection device, or maybe part of a harmonic balancer/damper .....

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jun 4 2015, 10:34 PM

sold my last unit C21 today. bai LMST

Is a rubber damper.

If u buy those aftermarket lighten crank, most of them don't have damper except for mythology.

You are right, it is a damper, and it was mentioned in the 4G1 series manual, as shown below (I add an explanation slide from what appears to be EON training manual).

On the subject of torsional vibration dampers, it is interesting to note that there is also one
on the left drive shaft.


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GOTCHA! swimming pool/aquarium in my boot again!
Not due to
1) trunk seal
2) taillights
3) windscreen seal

Did some detective work, caught the water dripping down, see photos.

There is hole somewhere at the wheel arch/boot panel joint, hidden under the bumper trim.

Now to figure out where is the hole, need to have the bumper removed.....

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jun 9 2015, 01:30 PM


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UPDATE on water leakage into boot

I removed the mudflap and bumper trim and found the source of the leak. It is the imperfect joining of the wheel arch and boot panels at the portion where there is a step. Used some sealant to plug the gap and tested ok.

Panels are still in good condition, no corrosion visible.

Not sure if this gap is a manufacturing defect or design flaw, or could be there is some original sealant which have deteriorated.


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Further tightening solved leaking issues in both of my Iswara's. But still monitoring especially the hose joint to thermostat, seemed to be leaking some amount there judging from the old coolant spots.

Anyone had idea to adjust ignition timing using timing marks? I just got myself a timing light and realized the timing marks are way too difficult to be accessible. Do normal mechanics use timing light for iswara adjustment? Maybe need to remove power steering pump to access the marking plate?

If not final resort will be old school style adjustment without timing light...

Below is photo view of the timing plate for engine without power steering, however for engines with power steering I think the plate is not blocked by the power steering equipment.

Timing adjustment is not difficult, as described by the enclosed Haynes page. The standard value is as shown in the service sticker from Quazacolt's twitpic. On the 1st page of this thread there is a pdf manual which includes timing adjustment, but I think it's for other countries because it mentions about timing connector bypass to earth and two stage adjustment...

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jun 13 2015, 10:14 PM


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wow you're like a saga/iswara encyclopaedia

but yes the timing plate isn't blocked, and my iswara got power steering.

Hi guys, i was quoted RM120 for valve seal change labour without warranty. Valve seals provided by me. Is it worth it?

When I did mine 1 year ago it was RM160 inclusive of seals.

Maybe you can ask for a couple of quotes from other shops just to confirm.

Also, if your rocker cover seal is leaking, might as well include this item too.

Thanks bro! Which mean my seals cost RM44 + labour RM120 = RM164.... quite okay! The workshop i inquired is p44autoworks in penang.... i heard good reviews about the workshop.

This post has been edited by zedyll: Jun 19 2015, 05:32 PM

For LMST timing adjustment using timing lights, the best view is through the gap between the left headlamp and the reservoir for power steering fluid, see below. The timing plate can be seen clearly through the equipment and pipings. The timing light gun should be positioned just above the headlamp corner.

However, you may have to clean the accumulated dirt on the plate first ; this is going to be difficult because of the restricted space.


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guys, wanna ask, any recommended workshop for me to skim my disc brake?

oem discs are like 100-200/pair, skimming isn't really worth it

Hi everyone, I have a Saga LMST and both of my headlamps were not working since last night.

I think there are three modes (not sure what are they called):
i) Lowest Beam (small lights only)
ii) Low beam (normal lights you switch on at night)
iii) High beam (flash ppl or to increase visibility if there is no incoming cars from opposite direction)

For my case, low beam is not working. For high beam, it's only working if I hold it in the position, if I release it, it will be back to lowest beam (but if in normal condition, if you pull it, it will maintain in high beam mode)

Since both of my headlamps went down, I doubt they are both burnt at the same time. So I was thinking of checking the fuse first. But at fuse box underneath the steering wheel, I can find the fuse for lampu belakang, undur, tepi and so on, but not lampu depan! I tried finding another fuse box at the engine bay but I couldn't find one. But I saw a fuse hanging (for aircond) there, so is it probable that fuse for headlamps will be hanging around too?

Is there anyone that knows where can I find the fuses for the FRONT headlamps? Tq very much

As far as I know, there is no fuse for headlamps. But there are a couple of relays connected to the headlamp circuit, they are located in the engine compartment, behind the right side headlamp (2 small square boxes) see photo below.

For your case, it could be these relays, or could be the switch itself at the steering column. You can try to check the relays, feel it to see if there is any clicks when switch on the headlamps (ask someone to assist you). Give it some light taps, maybe jammed.

Some discussion in this forum here:
Switch :
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=67841071

Relay:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=67866062

Is the illumination for instrument cluster meter working?


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I have checked the relay, when I switch the lights on, there are clicks. I have unplug them and plugging them back in securely. But still, there is no low beam. And yes, the instrument cluster meter is illuminating when i switch the lights on.

Any ideas?

I assume you meant that both the relay did have clicks (the one nearer washer fluid tank is
for the main lamp low&hi beams, the one nearer the headlamp is for small lights, if I
remember correctly).

For DIY I can only propose checking the following, based on the limited infomation that I
have:

1) Any other equipment or lights not working, abnormal?

2) There are fusible links at the +ve terminal of the battery. Any signs of burnt or melted
wiring there?

3) Open the covers for the headlamp bulbs to check the connector sockets whether they are
melted/shorted.
4) Look under the steering column among the sockets, see if there is one connecting to the
column switch. If there is, unplug/plug might help.

5) The earth wires from headlamp to body could be suspect, they are under the bumper,
however, I am not sure exactly where.

6) The switch at the steering column is also highly suspect, but I do not have method of
checking, other than dismantling it. You may want to 'exercise' it and see if there is some
signs of bad connection.

Further than this, you will need to do electrical tracing using voltmeter to check for supply
and continuity, and this is not so easy without proper circuit diagrams. The one I have from
Haynes is for export model, different from ours ( lower right hand corner of attached), but
might be of some help.

Maybe other members of this forum have experienced this problem could share their
findings?


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Regarding fuses in the engine compartment, there is something that looks like a kind of fuse, see photo below, located near to the relays. I am not familiar with this thing, I wonder if it it is a fuse related to headlights, since there are no fuses for headlights in the fuse box in the cabin. Maybe some one can shed light on this...


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