Bro, what 4 toto you use before and how come change back to stock?

Looks very much like this 1, dun have trumpet, but got adapter came together to fit external air filter.



By the name of SOLEX, seldom heard of it. According to previous owner, was detached from motorcycle. Originally came with an adapter for 4AGE, so my magician sent the 4toto to machine shop, bring along a stock intake manifold from chop shop and had it fabricate a special adapter for my 4G13.

Reason for downgrading? Partly due to waifu make noise, fuel price hike if you remember there was 1 point fuel price raised up to 2.70 where nobody can tahan. Call me an idiot, sold the whole set for RM400 which that point of time really have no intention to pursue on performance anymore.

Agreed the Yoko CDrive 2 is quite value for money...

Not sacrificing the wet grip, comfort, low noise etc....

680 bucks is cheaper than mine i thinks...

Thanks bro for the advice!

Story before dieseling occurs.....

First, i went for carb tuning (no machine aka manual ) to reduce my FC....since my exhaust emits black sooty smoke everytime i press the gas pedal and FC is hella high! (RM20 [RM2/L] for 60km)

After carb tuning, used the car about a week with good FC. But 1 problem emerges....pinging sound when accelerate. I went to my mechanics to tune ignition timing with timing light. The pinging almost gone except when climbing hills with with a slight pinging. My mech said slight pinging knock is okay. No dieseling problem yet.

Then, i went DIY changing the o-ring of distributor since there's quite of oil leaks. The distributor position was marked with correction pen. After finished replacing o-ring, i turned the distributor slightly 1-2mm anticlockwise (from marked position) therefore retarding timing some more. No more pinging even at hills.

Then, the dieseling started occuring occasionally.

Let's go dyno

Ooo.. nice. I also retired from 4 toto last year but mine was silvertop setup with trumpets. It was quite fun I guess especially beyond 5000 rpm but in the end still went back to single throttle body.

How old are your plugs? If its due or nearly due for change, maybe just change them. Might be a quick fix, nothing to lose.

This post has been edited by jedi_master: Mar 18 2015, 08:46 AM

Why not, for the time being, advance the timing back to when there was no dieseling, just to see if it goes away? (You will have to tolerate the pinging for a short while during this troubleshooting.

Another troubleshooting guide is to read your plugs and see if there is any overheating symptoms.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Mar 18 2015, 09:37 AM

Recently I tried pump RON 97 for Iswara 1.3 MT 1 full tank and I get better mileage around 14km/l

Normally with RON 95 only stay within 11-12km/l

Will try 1 more tank RON 97 before GST implementation

And yeah, RON 97 gets better response on this car

adjust your ignition timing accordingly to avoid pinging with ron95

Frankly, the 4toto experience was all about responses. And yeah, especially after 5krpm. The trouble is, my 4G13 ran out of breathe at about 6.5krpm. Despite having enough fuel after tuned up the carbs, it can still tarek all the way beyond 8krpm, I don't feel the sprint anymore. Do you get the idea of from 1k ~ 4krpm tarak VTEK, after 5K rpm it goes very smooth and back stickingly fast. But after 6.5k rpm, the backsticking feel gone According to magician, the valve train already topped out. The birds already standing at the fence where the stock cam aren't pushing hard enough. Even if we change the cam, a good chance where the valve spring isn't strong enough to retrace the valves any faster, a chance where the valve meets piston is there where standing at 8krpm Added, a friend of mine whose running on reinforced valve spring, customized billet cam blown the valve hell out of the rocker, smashed through the bonnet I was lucky to not dig into that deep before I realized I'm spending money into a black hole. 1st gear 8krpm, shift to 2nd ady 6krpm, tarik until 8k, upshift again on 3rd, again stuck at 6krpm++. It feels like totally out of power band. The car isn't going any faster other than the intake and exhaust screaming very nicely, sounding like a real VTEK.

The good thing that I realized after switched back to stock pistoned carbs, it isn't going much slower then when I was 4toto. My tuning was set to the lean side according to the external CO sensor. With slightly retarded ignition, the entire powerband has been switched over to low/mid end. However, the valvelifts has been further released. I wasn't sure why magician set it up that way, but was told due to lean setup and early torque band, the loosen valvelifts will help to sustain inertia during cruising. True enough, the setup gave me a consistent of 13km/l on a regular basis despite the horrible KL traffics. On straight hiway drive back and fro JB will easily yield me 18km/l and above.

It feels like this Very spontaneous. Good response. Very driveable.



This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 18 2015, 10:24 AM

I'm not experienced in tuning the ignition... but as far as I know if I pick up, engine will have those grek grek grek grek grek sound... this sound is after I brought the car for tuning in one of the mech in Kuantan...

ya most likely your engine is pinging/knocking especially on ron95 and ron97 help "solved" it and thus better pickup

I think mayb the mech follow the standard tuning for this engine when he last tuned for me... because the standard tuning I think it was for RON97 because last time don't have RON95 yet?

Should I tune this on my own? need any special tools? or is there any reliable tuner in Klang valley...

can DIY, may dig back previous posts.

only need a philips screwdriver to loosen 2 bolts and tune accordingly

kk i need some research on this then... must find the sweetest spot for the engine to work with RON 95

Anyone know how to remove the rear bumper of the iswara aeroback?

LMST or the normal aeroback?

LMST more complicated i guess. As far as I can recall, open rear boot, remove the middle plastic trim (with a cut out for latch). Proceed to the left and right headlamp trim if needed, can't remember. After removing the trim, shall be able to identify few screw heads, I think is 3 for each side, backed by a solid black metal (Triangle shaped?). Put something on the floor before you unscrew the bolts and drop the bumper. Once dropped the bumper, there's also metal plates securing the whole bumper. You might want to unscrew all as well if you would like to replace the bumper or do something fancy with the bumper. Also if you have reverse sensor, be careful of the wiring and don't over stretch the wiring while dropping the bumper..

1982 Lancer Fiore Potong 1986 Zakar / 1992 Swaga / 2003 LMSS / 2004 LMST / 2006 LMST Merdeka Edition 4G1x series injin stended setup is for RON88 In Marehsia, the ignition / carb tuning and valvelift are tuned for RON92 by factory stended So, how your magician know which stended tuning should use ar Does he has a blueprint for RON97 may I ask? Wish to borrow and see. Also hor, tuned based on what basis ar? Listen? See? Smell? Touch? Or CO reading? I wonder

p/s: The troll aside, most if not all magician also tune base on RPM/and engine vibration. And ofcourse, use timing light to gauge on ignition timing nia. Otherwise, it is safe to follow the given DIY tuning. Magician is also human, can't tell which is the right setup without CO reading

This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 18 2015, 04:44 PM

from these photos, which are the 2 screws?
http://tech.mirage-performance.com/distributorcaprotor.html

bro, my iswara 1999 auto got RON97 sticker on the fuel lid, which i believe still have