The stem (proper name is 'rotor') looks like the internet photos below. I took the motor to the shop and they replaced the rotor and brushes. Usually the moving commutator on the rotor and the stationary brushes wear out, and the commutator is not worth changing by itself, have to be changed as part of the rotor. The part looks like China-made, not ori.


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i want it all. World domination, winning lottery ticket and fries to go with it.

(I guess it really depends how "performance" is defined, really - cos you could say that nvh and lrr are "performances" as well, no?)

This post has been edited by igster: Mar 12 2015, 12:04 AM

Thankyouverymuch!

Cheers Albert!

I got my grease and massaged it into the grooves of the rubber seal like a girl from Dongguan giving an acquaintance the girlfriend experience. All the while my grease dispenser stared at me leeringly like a voyeur with constant premature ejaculation. Lube on. Rubbers down. We'll see how she goes.

Awesome that your boot was completely dry, man. Most awesome in fact!

I had an odd WTF moment whilst putting the weatherstrip back on when the ends didn't join up. The loop I bought was somehow slightly longer than needed - so I trimmed it perfectly during the install. This time round, there was a fair bit of pulling and tugging and slipping and sliding before it got back to where it was before. Hope it stays that way.

This post has been edited by igster: Mar 12 2015, 12:20 AM

d last time i checked, it was rm700 and above...

true.

if you really want it all, there's the max categories, such as Michelin PSS/Yokohama Advan V105
the pricing of a set can be even more expensive than an iswara. (500-1k/piece or more price ranges LOL)

True.

LOL.

(not even what to think about that!)

It will not be worth it

But alas, my lovely massage didn't really work as I had the car power washed today and after the spray the attendant threw a bucket of water on the roof and I realised that I had a frigging waterfall to complement my swimming pool!

I think, water is pushing over the seal and into the back - boot and seat. I was able to stick my finger through the seal from the inside of the car and see it protrude from the outside - I'm a retired contortionist.

Soon, it's possible, though I'm not certain, that that's the issue. I'm thinking about trying the idea of glueing weatherstrip on the opposing side to see if that works. No other idea how to rectify this.

Brief report about cap ayam extractors to low yat 82 jedi_master and all sifus & members here!
Today I changed my stock manifold to 4-2-1 extractor with flexible pipe 'nenas' with damage of RM230...But its an ordinary steel material not the stainless steel one.

The brand is ALCRO. I thought it was Wegow.
The shop owner said wegow already slow down in business, perhaps bankrupt already. I dunno.

But the bends are still quite decent, the extractor itself is solid and thick steel.
Compared to other shop's brandless cap ayam extractor that i surveyed the other day.....RM 150 without flexible pipe aka nenas but lightweight..... knocking the body sounds like tin milo ( i exaggerated a bit ) but you know the idea.

The extractor pic:


Before the welding.....the stock pipe is much smaller. Upgrade to 1.7" later?


After installation:



Comments: Pickup noticeably lighter. Driving with 3 passengers now feels like driving alone when still using stock manifold. Now my right foot feels heavy.
Before buy a budget cap ayam extractor....check the thickness of metals, the pipe bends decent or not. Cap ayam mods is just pure luck, i would say.
If got money, as all sifus said....recommended to go for reputable manufacturer. Sure won't regret.

This post has been edited by zedyll: Mar 15 2015, 08:17 PM

You have eliminated one possible cause in the process of troubleshooting. 3 more to go:
1) the one finger gap, which is your next step
2) the tail-lights
3) the windscreen seal.

Very pretty. Later karat liao bkam lidis

dirty bay, clean engine= tuned monster inside
karat is a placebo effect.

This post has been edited by zedyll: Mar 16 2015, 02:39 PM

Disagreed I can scrape some rust, dilute it in a glass of water for you to drink, see whether placebo or not Engine is clean on a dirty engine bay can simply relate to recently engine blown, no money to transplant had to overhaul Besides, refer to my fuelly ady know ayam an FC oriented driver If it has to be related with TUNE, then it's an FC optimized tuned monster. Nothing related to performance

haha...ok.jpg

Hello guys. I'm driving my father's saga iswara year 1996. The alarm system ( I guess? the press button lock door stuff) have broken and i wonder how much does it cost to change it?

Looks good bro. What's up next?

Thanks bro! Now continue completing exhaust system upgrades after got enough budget.

My current rusted muffler got holes....added 1 big hole i accidentally poked during extractor upgrades. now sound like cheap straight flow oredi. haha....


I have 1 minor issue which is stalling/jerking 1-2 seconds after ignition off. Sometimes it occurs, sometimes not. After reading through previous owners experiences, it's between rich mixture or solenoid kong.

So...wanna try carb tune first. The back of carb is the air mixture right? Is it turning clockwise or anticlockwise for leaner mixture?
Due to sometimes occur only, do you think the solenoid kong or not?

Your car is dieseling. It should occur when your engine is hot maybe after a long drive or so. Basically your fuel is still being ignited even though your plug is not firing. Its common in our cars.

Many things can be done. Timing/idle readjust should solve it coupled with carb re tune. Or maybe can consider carbon cleaning as well.

This post has been edited by jedi_master: Mar 17 2015, 07:51 AM

Solenoid kong will judder EVERYTIME u switch off the engine. It's likely to be overflow IMO. Before jumping into "tuning" your carb, it's advisable to give it a carb cleaning process. I solved mine with a bottle of electronic contact cleaner. I know there are specific carb cleaner spray out there, but I had bad experience with the carb cleaner spray which I wouldn't like to share it publicly, hence Alcohol base solution is my next best bet. The usual spray and vacuumize of throttlebody several rounds at high revs. Once done, change sparkplugs. Ever since, never happen to me anymore

On the worst case scenario, it could be the solenoid START to kong, where the shaft weren't able to extend fully when engine's off. Which you have a very good chance in reviving it with electronic contact cleaner spray. It could be stains on the shaft that prevent it from thrusting but that's all. Tuning carburetor is the last thing I do, and I only trust CO reading where I need to send my car to a magician who has a machine/dyno machine to do so. Others who always claim which sifu very powderful, by listen to the engine sound, see the RPM, feel the engine vibration, smell the exhaust fume ady can tell whether it's rich/lean is a big question mark to me. On a very bad situation where a petrol car start to emit black smoke, that ofcourse even a blind person also can tell it's running rich. But hey, how do you know it's not because of lean AIR that causes the RICH on FUEL?

My carb tuning never been kacauing me other than, overhaul job, change from 4toto back to stock - whilst other surroundings been upgraded such as valve springs, lifts, and also weird setup of exhaust system Other than the mentioned, the carb has been always running on the same setting after got out from the O2 reader and or dyno machine Do you get what I mean?