adjust your ignition timing accordingly to avoid pinging with ron95

ya most likely your engine is pinging/knocking especially on ron95 and ron97 help "solved" it and thus better pickup

can DIY, may dig back previous posts.

only need a philips screwdriver to loosen 2 bolts and tune accordingly

1982 Lancer Fiore Potong 1986 Zakar / 1992 Swaga / 2003 LMSS / 2004 LMST / 2006 LMST Merdeka Edition 4G1x series injin stended setup is for RON88 In Marehsia, the ignition / carb tuning and valvelift are tuned for RON92 by factory stended So, how your magician know which stended tuning should use ar Does he has a blueprint for RON97 may I ask? Wish to borrow and see. Also hor, tuned based on what basis ar? Listen? See? Smell? Touch? Or CO reading? I wonder

p/s: The troll aside, most if not all magician also tune base on RPM/and engine vibration. And ofcourse, use timing light to gauge on ignition timing nia. Otherwise, it is safe to follow the given DIY tuning. Magician is also human, can't tell which is the right setup without CO reading

where did you tune yours? and how much was it?

bro, my iswara 1999 auto got RON97 sticker on the fuel lid, which i believe still have

That is 1 good tuner! Were you using RON97 during the tuning? If yes, than it is optimized with RON97 liao.

After all the posting exchange, it is quite confirmed that your butt feel gaves you better placebo, hence lighten your foot and at the same time the car gaves you better mileage
1) A magician that uses timing light, the firing timing has been optimized to the circumstances where the engine health stands
2) A magician that uses ping detector(the hospital heartbeat reader thingy) to read ping can further finalize your ignition timing settings. Usually when procedure 1 is completed, this is the next step to micro decreasing ignition timing to minimize/eliminate ping/knock. Usually they no longer use hand to push anymore(only will do counter clockwise at this point to further retard ignition timing), use a small thing may be test pen to lightly knock on the distributor to get the best setup out of it.
3) A magician that uses CO reader will know how much is the exact carbon monoxide released from your exhaust tail pipe, so he/she can adjust your air flow/idling throttle angle/fuel flow/FICD actuating angle(for aircond), headlights power draw adjustment(oh yes! our Swaga got this feature also!). Adjustment is solely justified base on how much CO emission when the magician go "bem bem" your car, but I bet most magician doesn't do the "bem bem" according to normal driving condition, such as 3krpm! Usually will bem until red line, which is unrealistic. If you go redline often, will you still be worrying on FC? Probably not. If you're an ordinary driver, what is your rev range? Probably 3krpm max
4) A good magician will repeat step no.1 and 2 all over again to reconfirm the 3rd setting does not affect the ignition timing. If ignition timing has to be reset, step 3 may need to redo depending on how far off step 1 is. Usually, an average magician already can gets step 1 right for the 1st time. Hence, there are really no need to repeat the process at all, but for the sake of confirmation, and yes that makes a difference between a good magician and a lousy magician. Usually its not about the skill anymore because the good 1 and bad 1 are almost similarly skillful, but the good 1 will go an extra mile to confirm his setup has been carried up correctly.

AND, for the price of RM20, even he didn't repeat you also should feel grateful ady  Nowadays where to find RM20 tuning that involved all the above!
When was the tuning carried out? Carburetor got cuci or not before the tuning? This is a mechanical carburetor engine, any slight change of condition the setting also will deviate, depending on how bad the condition is. Unlike EFi engines can auto adjust everything according to engine health condition. Even our old 4G1x MPi that can't adjust ignition timing automatically also can adjust fuel injection rate to adapt.

Autochoke can be rosak without affecting much other than cold start idling speed. Definitely not affecting of what RON fuel you use

I really curious, how did you obtain the FC reading from your previous posts where you mentioned 14km/l? Is it the FUELLY way? Or the pay RM50, call it a tank? All my life, other than newer high compression vehicles, the 90's designed engine that has significant fuel economy between RON92 and RON97 was my CRX B16A The RON97 will really make hell lot of difference! Not to mention the power output, the fuel economy speaks for itself if it was the CRX. However though, the very same era my Potong Night 1.5S very much like to drink the RON92 red color devilish juice I feels like I can chase my own CRX with a ranjiao Plotong car when my mate is in my Hongda And, when I put RON97 cucumber juice in my Knight, tibai the bugger is like forcing my kids to eat vege lidat Go up hill will roll backward geh

non ori distributor is a gamble.

consider spending 400+ for a brand new ori one.

Your problem of engine misfire, lack of power, and meter misbehaviour can
be due to one of many causes, as the attached Haynes guide shows. It can
be from the ignition system (distributor/coil/cable/plugs) or fuel system
(pump/carburettor/filters), or engine mechanicals.

I am not sure if the meter problem and lack of power are symptoms of
clutch slip. Or it may just be the VDO defective meter which is quite common.

If you are into DIY, what you can do is first take a look at the plugs.
Remove them and look at the condition. You can google for spark plug 
guides to compare if there is indication of the problem. Run the engine
in area of darkness and observe for spark leakages at the cables or
distributor. Is the spark plug gap correct (the shop sometimes sell you
BP5SES-11 which is pregapped at 1.1 mm which can cause misfire if
there are leakages. You can also open the distributor and inspect the
condition for moisture, carbon tracking or other defects. Or like
Quazacolt said the distributor may be defective.

Is your autochoke working correctly? You can observe this by looking at
the piston position between hot & cold.

Don't think it's your ignition, just a flat spot in your carb tuning causing your engine to run lean at that rpm range. The lean spike would result backfiring of exhaust as well. Actually you can just get someone to rev your car to the problematic range, and adjust the air/fuel screw on the carb until the problem just goes away, but don't over compensate.

as you eliminated distributor/eo/plug cable, check the carb and autochoke now

is your air filter also new? ori proton is just ~rm10-12
doh somehow i missed air filter rofl

Oh, the last I bought a couple some years ago was just $2 each.

Locally made, I guess.

Tends to wear out quite fast, especially at the lower right corner 
(for the brake) and lower right/upper left for the clutch.

So I've cut some rubber linings meant for shoes, stuck them to
that brake corner, and covered up the whole top of the clutch.

1991
165k , first owner till now 😛