Hahahaha! Love the pic!

Yea, looks like I'll be discovering noise sourcing for awhile. Aiyahhhh. I guess it would help if there were illustrations or diagrams available for these holes to help the investigation. I'm also looking for some that show the entire tail light section - how to remove them, what goes where, etc.

Well the massive storm in PJ today was probably a good was to see if the new seal works. Answer is .....maybe. There seems to be less water (very much less) in the cavities next to the boot, however the boot was a little wet. This may or may not be caused by the new seal not sealing properly tho ...looks like it's going to be a really long discovery period.

I guess I'll need to trial and error this. How often do you grease your strips, btw? (Why did that sound so wrong?)

Regarding the wind noise, another possibility is the the window glass pane may not have perfect fit with the plastic guides, so there might be a gap. Just my guess only, happy hunting...

On the moisture still getting into your boot, try to look for the moisture trails, to have some clue whether it is from the windscreen seal, boot lining seal, or the tail-lights seal.

The hatchback tail-light unit is held by 3 screws, but the adhesive seal will be very strong and need to use force to separate from the bodywork.

So far my boot seal is ok, so I did not open again for regreasing. This is a lesson I learned : don't disturb the seal if it is working fine, otherwise it will start to leak again. The sealing mechanism is somehow very sensitive and many times I could not get it right.

how high? if its too high u gotta use stiffer valve spring. most cams in malaysia r designated to use stock spring. n durations around 25x -27x.

both r better in their own way. depends on ur usage and also ur exhaust overall layout wit mod u hav done. for general car usage, of course s-flow better.

if there is nothing wrong wit d carb, i dont really suggest to open up d carb. d last time engineer has done very well on d carb. d af ratio tuning r top notch. 4g13 n 4g15 use d same jets. its not interchangable. BUT in racing / motorsport, they do mod it wit bysharpening / make d jet more thin..

d best thing u could to is try to find unker fred n help u to tune for best performance for ur carb.

I'm not sure if it's the bearings - I've recently changed the front bearings when I replaced the rotors, and don't get the normal "whop-whop" sound of worn bearings on the rear. Tyre wear seems even - I did a thorough check after the rotor replacement when doing alignment, balancing and rotation. Side story: I had to literally force the wheel guys to put the better threaded tyres at the back.

I'd say that I probably have 30% threads left, maybe a little more. I'll need to do a more definitive measurement though by putting a ruler to it. Maybe the noise is just cos the tin can is just LOUUUUUDDDD!!!

Oh, I know it's metal kings, but I've noon idea why I keep referring to them as mountain kings, over and over again. Hahahahha

well from my C drive 2 experience on 2 cars:

195/60/15 (thick fat plain looking sidewall without rim guard)
2007 nissan sentra - treads almost completely bald, the side inner and outer already have the smaller pattern/tread exhausted, look like big block uhp tires.
still very silent
the catch: Nissan are among the best Japanese car makers when it comes to NVH

195/55/15 (lower profile with rim guard)
1999 Iswara - inner treads completely bald due to excessive camber, and that's because i "automatically" balances it out with my driving
unfortunately that isn't the case since my sister took over and it has taken a toll on the inner treads over time.
still very silent
the catch: the leaking exhaust pretty much out noise anything on the car so...

Thanks for the tip. I guess that's one place that I'll need to look as well - whether there is a gap in the guides.

Yea, I was kinda afraid that the seal might loosen as you say if it's constantly installed and removed. Darn it!

I think I'll leave the tail light assembly investigator after I rectify some of these other more obvious leaks. Mun-mun-lei, as they say.


Discovery trail began today in the heavy downpour this afternoon, so far I can see:

1. Leak at the top and centre of the hatchback (brand new) boot seal. I'm not sure how to rectify this.

2. Water also leaks through a one-finger gap (a factory defect, I understand, from the first owner who is family) between the boot lid on the vertical plane to the right of the latch.

3. There looks like a small leak through the left vertical plane too.

4. Dampness in the cavities adjacent to the boot itself, both on the left and right (between the rear wheel wells and the taillights).


For numbers 2 & 3, I'm thinking maybe glueing (if possible) a cleaned out length of the old weatherstrip on the opposing side - on the lid itself, that would sit as flush as possible with the new/existing boot seal. Thinking this way provide a double seal from opposing directions which might be able to counter and leaks. Any thoughts on this, guys?




Hunting has been frustrating, been someone's gotta do it.

Really? I was told that there is a slight difference in the jets but they fit in the same carb. Dammit! Heads will Roll!!!!

Thanks, btw. Any idea how I can get in touch with Uncle Fred, and how much tuning might cost?

Ok, it's confirmed then ...my car is a mobile and mechanical vuvuzela!

Is your sister going to change her tyres soon - GST is upon us.

Sentra changed to bluearth AE01 which i've provided review. (you may search for it on tire sub forum)

Iswara, well still got treads on the mid/outer, inner part too bad la lol
she supposedly drive slow and keep distance anyways, so should be ok.

if the car bang/kena bang she pay la.
she's richer than me anyways

Haha, sounds like the perfect brother-sister deal!

Hmmm, I'm tossing up of maaaaayyyybe getting new tyres before G-bloody-ST kills us. Would you recommend the Bluearth AE10 over the C Drives? (i haven't read your review ....yet)

This post has been edited by igster: Mar 9 2015, 11:41 PM

Seems you have multiple leak locations.

The leak at the top and centre of the hatchback boot seal : pull out the seal at
those areas, do you see moisture inside the groove and on the metal lip that goes into it? If there is, you have capillary action (water seeping and climbing via the contact surface between rubber & metal. Water is a very pesky thing, it can find its way through the nooks and crannies.). Happens even in new seals. Put some grease inside the groove and see if any improvement in the next rainstorm .

The one-finger gap : is the rubber at the gap itself wet ? Your solution might work, no harm trying. And this gap can be the source of your wind noise too?

Go no faster than 110 km/h – government mulling idea of installing speed limiting devices on all vehicles


Here’s something that’ll absolutely delight all you speedsters. Bernama reports that the government is mulling with the idea of installing speed limiting devices in all vehicles, “all” being an all-encompassing term here – think along the lines of passenger cars and motorcycles, not just commercial vehicles.

The proposal – aimed at being a measure to curb the growing number of road accidents and fatalities – would see a maximum speed of 110 km/h defined by the limiter, Deputy Minister of Science, Technology and Innovation Datuk Dr Abu Bakar Mohamad Diah said.

“Limiting the speed of all vehicles is a suitable method to reduce road accidents in the country,” he said, adding that it would be in line with the law in Malaysia to set a maximum speed limit of 110 km per hour. “If this can be implemented, then we will become the first country in the world to limit vehicle speed car based on speed limits in accordance with national law,” he told reporters at an event.

Abu Bakar said that the speed limiting device was easily available, and it can be installed on all vehicles, including motorcycles and imported cars. “The device, which can limit speed as required, costs less than RM500,” he added.

He said police patrol cars, ambulances, fire engines and vehicles from other appropriate law enforcement agencies would be exempt from these regulations.

==edit==
here is the link from Bernama.
http://www.bernama.com/bernama/v8/bm/ge/ne....php?id=1114920

This post has been edited by Albert B: Mar 9 2015, 08:52 PM

that device buy from who? more songlap?

better solve problem regarding private driving school and jpj corruption to curb traffic accidents. speed kills. monkey drivers murder.

Does anyone heard Wegow brand exhaust systems?

Quoted RM230 for Iswara 421 Extractor with flexible pipe 'nenas'.

The pipe bends are better than brandless 'cap ayam' extractors in other shop i surveyed not long ago.

The dep. minister's statement about the cause of accidents and cheapness of the device etc is out-of-touch with the real world situation. It will go the way of the 3 blinking speed indicator lights fixed on top of heavy vehicles many many years back.

And if implemented will mean every vehicle owner have to fork out money to some govt.
approved agency to instal...

And besides the measures you mentioned, JPJ should go undercover and catch those reckless drivers on the road. Those dangerous drivers can cause serious damage even at less than half the 110 km/hr speed, and should face very heavy penalties...

The car is parked in Thailand (read as "very far away"), so I'll only be able to check on it tomorrow. Great tip tho. Is there any particular type of grease that you'd use?

Here's a shot I took of the droplets earlier ...



Yea, I'll give the double layer a whirl if I can this weekend, whilst the search continues.

Absolutely! And fix the pot holes and place road signs correctly while they're at it!

Does anybody believe Bernama anymore anyway?