I have being mixing those different brand leftovers, hopefully nothing too much damaging the engine.
Normally my mix are different brand, 10W-30 & 10W-40. Maybe myvi are more forgiving on this.

I think a smaller ratio should be ok? if 50/50 or more could have some consequences? I have no idea. But thanks for your input.

Actually I would prefer all using same brand and grade for all my cars but 1 car still send to service centre(cannot use own EO)

Another car, my usual mechanic shop but sometimes they themselves change EO brand.

Now I in the process thinking buying in big bulk and use it for all my cars. Might also discuss with bro/sister geng up buy together.

But here don't recommend don't follow what the car manufacturers manual stated as prefer EO grade. Anyway all my cars are old tech, ordinary type and under normal usage only.
I think semi syn 10W-30 or 10W-40 should be ok

if your car using sae 0w20 , you can use 5w30 or 10w30 engine oil , 10w40 too thick for your engine , you will feel slightly heavy

It is always good to follow car manufacturer manual as a baseline and also depends on usage pattern like city driving or every outstation on high rev etc.
Generally, my regular mechanic recommends to use fully-synthetic for new car (<100K mileage) or semi-synthetic (>100K mileage) - brand is a personal preference.

I have a Honda Civic FD 2007 (>200K mileage) using Liqui Moly MoS2 10W-40 semi-synthetic as used fully-synthetic and experienced oil level drop after 3-months due to high mileage car etc.
My other car (40K+ mileage) using fully-synthetic 5W-30 as newer car and reasonable viscosity for Malaysian weather.

Whichever brand chosen, it is always recommended to change engine oil at regular 6-months / 7K km (semi) / 10K km (fully) interval or earlier and safest to stick with global top oil brands.
I am considering to next try KIXX G1 SP fully synthetic due to its engine protection, value for money and also meets requirement of API SP for today's modern cars with timing chain.

Any feedback on KIXX brand or equivalent?
KIXX G1 API SP engine oil

This post has been edited by dijon: Jan 6 2024, 07:48 PM

It always old mechanic advice that way, above certain mileage need use semi/mineral or most ask to use thicker EO. I always use recommended viscosity EO as per manual even >200k km (230k km now) with 0w20 FS. No issues engine eating oil whatsoever unless there is a leak. Past usage at 140k km and 220k km, valve gasket seal leak oil so change that while at 220k km, valve gasket, flywheel oil seal, auto gb oil seal, all the oil seal plus O-ring replace, it good as day 1 back. Engine oil level remain same even after 3km mileage after change all that

Subaru BRZ approaching a quarter million KM
http://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/others/20240106_brz_01.png


Proton Iriz CVT after Sepang track day
http://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/others/20240106_Iriz_eng.png

http://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/others/20240106_Iriz_cvt.png


My own GT86 back to back reports on Petronas 7000 0w20, moving on to next oil as these are my last Petronas
http://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/20240106...petronas_01.png

http://www.quazacolt.com/uoa/gt86/20240106...petronas_02.png


This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jan 7 2024, 05:46 PM

Thanks for the info. Who is your petronas supplier?

Shopee official store or directly PLI / Mesra depending on existing promotions and sales

But moving on from them as they used to be like 150+ now 240++

any tips to avoid spun rod bearing? serious question ya

ideally, you need to have bearing clearance specs, oil pressure and temp specs, and (from earlier information), resulting required oil viscosity/film strength , and operating temperature range of all the prior information.

without all these info, the next best thing is following manufacturer recommendations and supplementing UOA to have your usage and application that introduces additional variations and variables that may deviate from manufacturer's recommendations.

Am using them on Lancer GT with NA engine running more than 380k km that's combo with liqui moly engine additives. No issue or engine leak, engine revs smooth and quiet

Would it be correct to say for direct injection engine with a well known carbon buildup issue on the intake, (in my case 4GR-FSE), getting a low NOACK engine oil is crucial to minimize the issue? If that is really the case, any recommended affordable 0W-30 engine oil with low NOACK?

Nope. Just send walnut blasting every 60k km will do much better effect

my 2003 toyota camry 2.0e currently use semi synthetic 10w40 penrite engine oil , so far so good

low SAPS oil will reduce , but will not eliminate. However Toyota eliminate the problem with their D4-s systems with work with Like GDI + MPI

This post has been edited by pumpman: Feb 26 2024, 04:47 PM

salute, you still send the used oil to USA? Have you tried this lab https://alsglobal.com.my/ which can give you faster results. They are located in Shah Alam and Australian own if not mistaken.

They didn't reply me back in 2014


No matter i just WhatsApp them again just now.
Hopefully they can beat 30USD pricing for a sample analysis

Elisa from ALS finally gotten back to me via email
RM300 excluding SST

still fail to match the price of Blackstone labs USA including shipping. oh well hopefully their price doesn't worsen...

or if our RM continues to diarrhea from FOREX and USD, then yeah ALS can start to be a viable option.

i normally buy a package for 10 samples test .. sometimes i requested for reduce test parameter , and the price will reduce.