Hi guys. One question, IRR 96% can lepas smart tag or not?

not really related...

high metal sputter content... or high metalic ceramic content... these are the factors to smart tag use...

essentially its creating a faraday cage with your car...

Faraday cage blocks EM. You're talking about RF, GPS, Phone signal.

Smart tag use IR, hence high IRR would affect the detection.

That's theoretical though. So I would like to know from real world experience does 96% IRR affect smart tag detection.

Faraday cage blocks EM. You're talking about RF, GPS, Phone signal.

Smart tag use IR, hence high IRR would affect the detection.

That's theoretical though. So I would like to know from real world experience does 96% IRR affect smart tag detection.

Do note the original FWS tint is not working very well coz is JPJ compliant.

You can actually live with them, many does but if you want max comfort clear tint, then change lor but effective tints like VKool and 3M that listed 70+% have very high risk of failing Puspakom test. These tints won't be stop in operasi tho coz very clear, operasi only aim for cars with much darker front tint.

Since it'll fail Puspakom anyway, what's darkest and "safest" VLT we can go for without getting flagged, 60% FWS?

Im thinking of doing VLT 60% FWS, and 40% for the rest.

Since it'll fail Puspakom anyway, what's darkest and "safest" VLT we can go for without getting flagged, 60% FWS?

Im thinking of doing VLT 60% FWS, and 40% for the rest.

Since it'll fail Puspakom anyway, what's darkest and "safest" VLT we can go for without getting flagged, 60% FWS?

Im thinking of doing VLT 60% FWS, and 40% for the rest.

Tint produces different hue, different colour of light penetration and brightness, for my VLT30 rear tints (read 20-21%), it is light brown and pretty bright for a supposedly low VLT tint, in a good way. Its very clear at night and comfortable at daytime, not dark and yet not bright, comfortable lighting. So you can try VLT30. Any lower, the reading will likely falls below 20, making me strain my eyes a bit. VLT30 (read VLT21) did not strain my eyes at night but that is my preference coz many ppl still drive ok with even lower VLT tint at night.

Ya, I gave up on VLT70% tint and trying for JPJ compliant tint when my VKool Elite that is supposedly JPJ compliant with VLT of 71% to 73% read 64% in Lingshang meter reading on FWS.

For me, VLT 60% should is good liao for FWS. It should read about 54 to 56%. Looks clear tint no matter how you look at it. Of course if you compare side by side with VLT 70%, you can see the difference in brightness but at a glance from outside, clear tint.

Although different tint produces different hue, different colour of light penetration and brightness, for my VLT30 rear tints (read 20-21%), it is light brown and pretty bright for a supposedly low VLT tint, in a good way. Its very clear at night and comfortable at daytime, not dark and yet not bright, comfortable lighting. So you can try VLT30. Any lower, the reading will likely falls below 20, making me strain my eyes a bit. VLT30 (read VLT21) did not strain my eyes at night but that is my preference coz many ppl still drive ok with even lower VLT tint at night.

When you said it that way....it makes sense. Ok, my bad.

When I install this, its 2.6K tho,,,then upgrade 2.8K to DX. It included a perfect job of removing old tints from both my 16 and 18 years old cars. Demister for both still worked like a charm. The pricing also included full arrangement of windscreen replacement directly in the center. When I look at that pricing included the excellent services, I can't help but try to help promote the brand a bit when I can because I think they are worth it. That is from the pricing view of a sedan...tho coz when it goes SUV, the high pricing, not sure.

Unfortunately I did not think it would look like that to a sceptic of premium price local brands, but I accept as it does look like that when I look from your POV now that you mentioned the reason. I am never a sceptic of any brands local or international, just look at their price range and then the review on quality of tints.

For metallic sputter tints, my bias preference, not much choice at that. So I would still recommend them if ppl looking for good metallic sputter tint alternatives coz I found one that I like and think the company doing this is ok.

Maybe try not to sound so enthusiastic tho, my bad on this, as I did not look from a neutral point of 3rd party but one who have used them and are excited about it...  
And you are also right, I run the risk of recommending one when I have not use it long term, I may or may not regret a few years later...mmm, let me think about it....  

As for the pricing, I think I have to disagree that local brands have to sell at 2K or lower if they think their quality are on par with the premium ones. Maybe you are not into metallic sputter, you might not care, I do, so it will appeal to people with the same bias. I won't recommend them over nano ceramic tho as both have their pro and cons aka premium metallic sputter are usually more expensive in general but against advancement of technology of nano ceramic, I can't be sure of premium nano ceramic cost.

My 2 cents is good metallic sputter tints cannot be sold too low a price coz its generally more expensive to produce real good metallic sputter. If sold at low price, I would definitely think there is something wrong with material they used for sputtering or the sputtering process is not what they say they did. It would be harder to sell at premium price tho, unfortunately but when the selling price is too low for a premium metallic sputter tint that the owner really believes is good, they would drag the brand name to 3rd rate brands and would likely never be able to achieve the premium brand name that they aim for. Its a dilemma for them if you think about it.

Thank you for the detail write up, appreciate it. It'll make me easier to decide.

I do notice that 3M Crystalline has more of brownish hue say than with other tint, or even with their own Ceramic. My other car has a greenish hue which I hate.

Ya, I gave up on VLT70% tint and trying for JPJ compliant tint when my VKool Elite that is supposedly JPJ compliant with VLT of 71% to 73% read 64% in Lingshang meter reading on FWS.

For me, VLT 60% should is good liao for FWS. It should read about 54 to 56%. Looks clear tint no matter how you look at it. Of course if you compare side by side with VLT 70%, you can see the difference in brightness but at a glance from outside, clear tint.

For front side windows, I think maintaining 55 to 60% VLT also good enuf, at least if kena Puspakom, no need to tear of side windows tint.

I myself uses VLT60% (actual reading will be lower at 54 to 56% VLT at 3mm) for FWS and front side,  VLT30 (actual reading 20-21% VLT, coz 5mm).

My civic accidentally tinted with an additional security layer with 5mm on side windows (ya, my tint have option for same range, FWS uses the 2+/3mm original layer, if use in side, can make it 5mm as security layer for the same range) making the supposedly VLT60% goes down to 48%. I wanted it to be JPJ compliant at the side but since already installed, I just let it be. My other using the same tint, I specifically reminded them to use same layer 2-3mm as FWS, it only read 54%.

Although different tint produces different hue, different colour of light penetration and brightness, for my VLT30 rear tints (read 20-21%), it is light brown and pretty bright for a supposedly low VLT tint, in a good way. Its very clear at night and comfortable at daytime, not dark and yet not bright, comfortable lighting. So you can try VLT30. Any lower, the reading will likely falls below 20, making me strain my eyes a bit. VLT30 (read VLT21) did not strain my eyes at night but that is my preference coz many ppl still drive ok with even lower VLT tint at night.

Dunno why your car glass is so different to mine. My Harrier V-kool Elite on front windscreen measured VLT 69.7, and the installers used the exact same 2-piece meter the cops use at roadblocks. They claimed that small difference no issue for roadblocks. Puspakom might be different story though, because their meters calibrated differently. My mum’s Cross with IrisPro Diamond 60 on the front windscreen and windows measured VLT 60.1 once applied (factory tint removed first, obviously), although this was only measured with handheld Lingshang meters. Iirc, posted photos of those reading somewhere in this thread.

With regards to hue, my mum’s Cross install combination of Diamond 60 and 30, and all the hues look the same emeral-blue shade. The back is just deeper than the front. DX I have no idea because it wasn’t released yet back when I installed. For 3M I saw dog999 previously mention that once you go down to 30 or 20 VLT the film exhibits a yellow/brown hue. I tagged him in the previous sentence so hopefully he will read it and clarify.

if the tint quality is just on par with branded, then is no brainer answer as one will 100% go for branded. just like 1 go buy a beg from pasar malam that having exact same quality as C.keith at the same price, then why pick pasar malam brand over C.keith.. ppl picked less branded because of higher spec, yet cheaper.. same price same spec, branded is the only way to go.
for 3k, i will try branded metalised tint like xpel.. but of cos, u can continue irispro

can send me the price & spec for irispro? where is your branch located?

Dunno why your car glass is so different to mine. My Harrier V-kool Elite on front windscreen measured VLT 69.7, and the installers used the exact same 2-piece meter the cops use at roadblocks. They claimed that small difference no issue for roadblocks. Puspakom might be different story though, because their meters calibrated differently. My mum’s Cross with IrisPro Diamond 60 on the front windscreen and windows measured VLT 60.1 once applied (factory tint removed first, obviously), although this was only measured with handheld Lingshang meters. Iirc, posted photos of those reading somewhere in this thread.

With regards to hue, my mum’s Cross install combination of Diamond 60 and 30, and all the hues look the same emeral-blue shade. The back is just deeper than the front. DX I have no idea because it wasn’t released yet back when I installed. For 3M I saw dog999 previously mention that once you go down to 30 or 20 VLT the film exhibits a yellow/brown hue. I tagged him in the previous sentence so hopefully he will read it and clarify.

Of course if same quality, same spec with same pricing, I would go for branded. Now, on the spec requirement that I want, it is cheaper than the branded that I compared to (VKool Elite), of course, who can be more expensive. Other branded does not fit my requirement at the price I want....Irispro do...so it is wrong that I choose them, installed them and found them good both in tint and excellent services and then recommend them albeit the pricing is a bit more premium than I would have like? I'm crazy at that, I did say that before.

I am still a fan of VKool and I still think VKool is better if going at same VLT and the only reason I think DX60 heat resistant seems better is due to much lower VLT. I cannot denied that. If both at same VLT, I think VKool Elite still wins outs but I do get to installed what I feel now is a better than VKool Elite at much lower price (I am just talking abt getting better heat resistant due to much lower VLT vs my earlier very bright VKool Elite). Still if I can afford VKool Elite with the same VLT specs that I install now, but with the spec I have now, I cannot afford VKool.

Xpel using Dye-Metallic hybrid, the word Dye comes in and I skipped that straight-way, just does not fit my requirement that Irispro do but as I say b4, your preference on tints specs especially metallic differs to mine, a lot but that is again my own preference.

As I have my bias, you seems to have yours as your eg, seems to compare local brands as pasar malam or fake brand even as an example. you seems to be treating local brand as OEM or fake branded instead of them trying to build their own brand mindset. Thus local brand must be of lower grade and cheap stuff, I can't say anything more as seems your mindset is made up. I give up arguing on that.

I do think your suggestion of toning down my own enthusiast view is correct. Looking back, I do sound like a salesman... ...and might screws up if something did goes wrong with the tint years later. I would still recommend the tint if ppl ask for alternative coz I still like it a lot except for the hue and lighting tones difference. Maybe just put more emphasis on caveat of not tested for years..

Only Crystalline 70 blueish, 3M Crystalline 60,50,40,20 more towards brownish yea.