Ya, I gave up on VLT70% tint and trying for JPJ compliant tint when my VKool Elite that is supposedly JPJ compliant with VLT of 71% to 73% read 64% in Lingshang meter reading on FWS.

For me, VLT 60% should is good liao for FWS. It should read about 54 to 56%. Looks clear tint no matter how you look at it. Of course if you compare side by side with VLT 70%, you can see the difference in brightness but at a glance from outside, clear tint.

For front side windows, I think maintaining 55 to 60% VLT also good enuf, at least if kena Puspakom, no need to tear of side windows tint.

I myself uses VLT60% (actual reading will be lower at 54 to 56% VLT at 3mm) for FWS and front side,  VLT30 (actual reading 20-21% VLT, coz 5mm).

My civic accidentally tinted with an additional security layer with 5mm on side windows (ya, my tint have option for same range, FWS uses the 2+/3mm original layer, if use in side, can make it 5mm as security layer for the same range) making the supposedly VLT60% goes down to 48%. I wanted it to be JPJ compliant at the side but since already installed, I just let it be. My other using the same tint, I specifically reminded them to use same layer 2-3mm as FWS, it only read 54%.

Although different tint produces different hue, different colour of light penetration and brightness, for my VLT30 rear tints (read 20-21%), it is light brown and pretty bright for a supposedly low VLT tint, in a good way. Its very clear at night and comfortable at daytime, not dark and yet not bright, comfortable lighting. So you can try VLT30. Any lower, the reading will likely falls below 20, making me strain my eyes a bit. VLT30 (read VLT21) did not strain my eyes at night but that is my preference coz many ppl still drive ok with even lower VLT tint at night.

Just contact Puchong branch contact in their website. I did it in Klang but the manager is the same as Puchong branch. The contact for Klang is direct to owner but it will still be passed to Puchong branch manager to handle. For other branches, don't know who handle, just contact via their website contact. I did that during my search last time.

Check their website for the specs are listed there but for DX specs, just ask directly but I believe not much different (but in real life, do feel different). In terms of colour, I like Diamond 60 better than DX60 as DX seems at have hazy (like mild haze) when sunlight reflect on "certain" angle on my side windows. DX30 has not such issue, its darker anyway. On FWS DX60 don't have hazy look  tho but D60 seems substantially brighter even when on their paper it is 2% different VLT only.

Mine was done in December 2023 and January 2024 respectively. So pricing already different. Different car range, different pricing. Mine is small sedan (old City and Civic).

Come to think about it, it never crossed my mind to ask them about it. I don't think thicker means more heat rejection tho. I figure it might be due to the multi layers used listed in the website's Technology's Patent #1 and #2.

Anyway, I search thru internet last time when I saw the 3 mil thickness too, car windows tints can range from 1.5mil to 3mil, although most tint are at 1.5mil to 2mil tho. 3mil likely borderline but still within limits of standard car windows tint thickness. From what I know (I may be wrong), most stays at 1.5mil and 2mil for better visual and clarity management. Although the D60 that I used are very sharp and clear. So got no idea if 3mil makes any difference with 2mil on that, I guess it depends on tints quality kuah.

Mm..now that u raise the 3 mil issue, I am curious also why? I see if I can get respond from them on this.

Update : I asked a few questions as I raised my own doubt as well after some questions certain things about the tints I installed and the boss called me instead to explain,

1. Irispro tint is their own tint design, materials with patents and sirim-certified (not just sirim tested). Sirim testing certified it can last 5 to 10 years. Once confirmed that it can perform up to standard only can be Sirim certified. You can check out what Sirim certified means vs Sirim tested. They did the performance test on Sirim as well thus their extra 10 years Performance Warranty. Not sure how this Sirim certification goes tho, I am not sure how it worked, go figure yourself. haha

2. The 3mm is because of their multi-layers designs as stated in their website's Technology link.

3. DX still used nano-titanium layer in the middle but the outer sputter layers are have more sputtering of silver for DX. Diamond have 6 metal inlaid layer in the sputter film, DX have 12 silver sputter inlaid layers in the sputter film. Silver are the best heat resistant metal available for tints (gold cannot afford) with weakness that is is more corrosive. Give and take.

4. The tint itself are 3mil (both Diamond and DX), for side windows, they added an additional 2mil UV layer making it 5mil. They lacked the technology to mold the extra 2mil directly to the multi-layer 3 mil original tint. Also making it 5mil directly will make it very difficult to install in FWS and RWS. So they defaulted back to 3mil. Their layers does not include any anti-break feature but all thick tints with good mold and adhesive will hold longer against glass shattering and the thicker ones will just shatter in 1 pieces inside the tint rather than splattering the glass.

5. Main reason for 1.5mil to 2mil for FWS for most brands are easier installation. FWS and RWS are curved glass, the thinner the tint, the easier to install. 2mil are the sweet spot for installation. It's all depending on adhesive that they used, the better quality the adhesive, the thicker it is, the better it can hold against breaking of glass to pieces. In terms of FWS, 2mil and 3mil makes not much difference in safety. The difference is how they strong they hold the glass together to avoid glass splattering. So no issue for FWS and RWS installation. Most tints including this are shatter resistant, not break resistant.

6. When you break FWS during emergency, you don't really break from the middle coz it is technically the hardest part to break and most good tints with good adhesive and mold will hold and prevent the glass from splattering. You break from the side or corner of FWS or RWS, it will crack the entire FWS, then you smash the entire windscreen in a single piece (the better tint will HOLD the whole windscreen together instead of splattering it all over). So 3 mil makes not difference than 2mil except for harder installation and better holding power against glass splattering.

7. I can't remember now what else I asked, its all explained verbally, so hopefully I did not deviate from the real explanation. This is what I'm told and I'm no expert in this, so I might be wrong in some info. If info is correct, hopes it helps our layman understanding on tints.

Np, I also want to know since you raise it also.

Not sure what you mean by VLT30 giving same heat rejection as VLT70, unless the materials quality differs greatly, VLT30 will almost always have better heat rejection than VLT70 coz VLT % contribute to over 50% of TSER result. If VLT30 giving same TSER as VLT70, I would abandon that VLT30 brand straight away....hahaha

Based on the patent tho, I saw 2 layers of UV400 (giving 100% UV protection, as if usual 99% vs 100% really makes any difference in real life at all???) and HEV Blue light resistant films, 2 layers of anti-aging film along with double sputtering (2 main layers of metal sputters). Not sure how other brands layered theirs, they might have different advance tech to melt them, so no comment there. Unless the other brands have same exact features and stated ratings, then I will say 3mm vs 2mm lose out but with double sputters and double layers of most features, it make sense to me for the extra thickness but then again it does not matter for others. I like this tint a lot after I installed them but then there are indeed many good brands outside to compare, none can really say they are better than each other.

Based the listed TSER, it is quite high on TSER with HEV protection features that other tints don't have. Again, HEV blue light filtering might not matter to others, not most priority anyway. For me the stated TSER is just stated indicator to have initial gauge on what heat resistant for the tint might be (some stated more realistic score, some unbelievable high), I would also take it with a grain of salt unless tried and experienced in person.