That is why I say VKool Elite is really the most reliable besides being the most expensive clear tint. 2 of mine lasted 15 years and 18 years respectively before it become wavy like yours.

Just to add. I believe the tint at the front windscreen is most critical especially if the driver mostly drives alone, or together with a passenger.
As we all know, a tint with high VLT needs to be put at the front windscreen, and most if not all tints with high VLT usually don't do well with heat rejection. Only the high-priced good tints with high VLT will do well with heat rejection. This is one of the reasons people who want to save cost will select a dark tint of VLT say 50% or lower at the front windscreen so they won't feel the heat from the sun burning the skin too much. Cheap tints with high VLT say 60% or 65%, in my limited experience it feels like there's no tint on the front windscreen even though you have installed one. So, people who don't wish to spend so much as wish to go cheap will likely select a dark tint at the front windscreen just to have a bit of improved heat rejection. Otherwise, there's really little to no difference if you go with cheap tints with high VLT.

Even with branded Huper Optik, the Sech60 which has a VLT of 59% at the front windscreen is actually just average in performance and feels worse that V-kool Elite. The performance is only good for about 3 to 4 years and after that it feels like there's no tint on the car. For the sides and rear sides where the VLT can go lower, there's no issue here as you can select a low VLT, and low VLT of 20% to 40% even the cheaper tints will be efficient. It's only the front windscreen where you need to put a relatively clear tint of VLT say 60% to 70%, and in this case the cheap tints with this VLT range usually have very poor heat rejection as if there's no tint on the vehicle after they are installed on the car.

Based on my experience, I do not recommend Huper Optik if you want to install Sech60 (VLT 59%) on your front windscreen as to me the heat rejection performance is not very good. My benchmark is V-Kool Elite. If it's Huper Optik C40 or C30 at the front windscreen the heat rejection will be better but it's way too dark in my opinion.

Nowadays I don't look at numbers in the spec too much especially cheap tints. They are not reliable. I have posted the spec on page 443, post #8859. The IRR and TSER numbers of a cheap Totalgard tint is higher than V-kool Elite. However, the heat rejection of the Totalgard is much inferior to the V-kool Elite.

I would rather rely on "reliable" real world experiences from people who have experienced the performance of the tints on their cars for a considerable period of time.

High IRR% with Low VLT% = High TSER%
High IRR% with high VLT% = Lower TSER%

So VLT also play abit part for tint heat rejection overall. In our weather need take 95% IRR as bare minimum

Err..Any clear tint, even VKool Elite will still hot ler. Low VLT does matter in reducing heat.

Based on ceramic that absorb tint, moving car can disperse the heat better. One of the reason I prefer good metallic sputter tints that reflect heat instead of absorb them. However high VLT still hot no matter ceramic or metallic. Thus I gave up on high vlt when I retint my older cars. As long as it is above 50 VLT, it will still looks clear, so opt for those 60 VLT (after reading with windscreen thickness, usually will drop to 54 to 56%). The lower VLT coupled with premium good tint quality DOES matter in heat resistant.

The Irispro D60 and DX60 is substantially less hot (on direct palm feel, no scientific data) coz I got 1 car with D60 FWS, 1 with DX60 and 1 with VKool Elite. D60/DX60 read 56 to 54% respectively while VKool read 64%. 10% difference but heat on back of hand are quite obviously different on very hot sunny day.

Unbranded (house brand) also I no trust. So I go local brand like Raytech, Irispro, etc that is NOT unbranded. Llumar, 3M, etc all have their own strength and weakness. I used to aimed specifically for those brands but after many years of reviewing, still opt for branded metallic sputter tint with long strong warranty including performance warranty backed by organization that is not a 1 shop hero.

As for how long will it last, VKool Elite is the best, lasted 12 to 16 years with effective heat resistance. For others, I can't comment. For Irispro, lagi cannot comment coz just installed 4 months ago but the 10 years performance warranty gives peace of mind if reading falls below a certain level tho not sure it it matters. No choice for me as I wanted a good metallic sputter tint instead of many choices of ceramic. So far excellent result....for now.

Anyone installed irspro diamond series at the front wind screen? I see their catalogue they only offer highesr 60% vlt? Will it become issue with jpj?

Seeing you guys talk alot about tint....

Just wanna share some info.....

Do you guys know , V-Kool , Huper Optic , Llumar are all the same parent company ?

All are make on the same freaking factory on the same machine.

That just the branded ones not even including those so call OEM or house brand......

Many tints claimed heavenly stats but in reality, most just doesn't work in real life performance. Some worked as claimed but after a year or 2, quality degraded until feel no tint.
You really have to buy a meter to test the tint and then re-test them after a year of real life usage.

I have one car with Diamond 60 FWS. Real life VLT reading is 56% on FWS for my car. It looks clear although if put side by side comparison with VKool Elite 70%, it is dimmer with more golden hue external reflection. At night, no reflection lor. If no put side by side, looks clear to me, likely won't get stop during operasi. Operasi normally target those cars with obvious dark tint, 60% is not dark, its more towards clear tint than dark unless you darn unlucky.

However Puspakom sure cannot pass. Then again, VKool Elite with stated 71-73% VLT also cannot pass Puspakom. Only those tints with 80% listed VLT can pass but if you want good heat resistance from them, you can forget about it. But got tint better than no tint, at least they filter most UV out reducing UV damage on dashboard (besides heat damage).

I can't remember when VKool Elite appear. Before elite appear, VKool using VKool-70 for all windscreen and windows. When Elite appear, they use something like Vkool-75 or euro spec with higher VLT (I think about 75%) for FWS. VKool-70 got problem with smart tag then. VKool-75 or Elite don't.

Don't know if VKool still uses the same spec for Elite. Anyway, if your old tints are Elite, then there is high chances the FWS is using different spec than all other screens of the car.

Thanks for your feedback!

SUV, comes factory tinted cap ayam god knows what tint.

IrisPro Elite is expensive, but they do not quote me the price "after discount". It can go down cheaper I suppose. IrisPro Diomond was quoted RM4000.

I really hate all these after before "discount" non published pricing.

As for 3M, it's a full Crystalline from an authorized dealer listed on https://www.3m.com.my/3M/en_MY/automotive-w.../find-a-dealer/

I use RFID all the way. SmartTag is a non issue, just that I do not know where my car GPS antenna is, if that matters.

Hi guys. One question, IRR 96% can lepas smart tag or not?

Faraday cage blocks EM. You're talking about RF, GPS, Phone signal.

Smart tag use IR, hence high IRR would affect the detection.

That's theoretical though. So I would like to know from real world experience does 96% IRR affect smart tag detection.

how reliable is the quality over times? can beat irispro??

Thank you. Am considering something similar too. 50% windscreen and 35% for front and 20% rear windows.