hi sifu-sifu,

Is V-kool really good? Quoted their top range solitaire series, about 2k for front windscreen + driver + front passenger windows.....mine is MPV so the windscreen is huge, the rear windows and rear windscreen had been double darken tint. So only need to tint the front 3 pcs to avoid JPJ/polis kacau and get good heat protection.

Has anyone found a tint that is comparable to V-kool's performance at around RM2k or less. 😁
If there's none I suppose V-kool may be one of the best choice if heat rejection performance is top priority, but at a price.

iirc my dad's old car with Vkool won't work and less chance it will work for the smart tag (old type bulky one), believe cz of Metallic Based tint. Agreed on the heat rejection quality of the Vkool, it lasted long up until the car was let go. On my car with Ceramic based tint, it works for Smart Tag but has less power for heat rejection compared to Metallic based tint. Recently many brands cw Sputtering tint based, which for me an equivalent to or better than Metallic based tint.

Yes I believe so. I used to have V-kool Elite on one of my old cars about 16 years ago for all windscreens front, side and rear. Even though it's not the highest spec tint, the heat rejection is the best I've experienced. It costs RM3.6k back then for my C-segment sedan. I believe if going with combination of V-kool Elite for front windscreen and V-kool 55, 40, 30 or 10 for side and rear windscreens, the heat rejection performance would be even better but the cost would be higher.

Fast forward to today, I believe prices are all higher now so it might cost RM5k to 7k to do the whole car with V-kool depending on the model of tint. If you have the budget, then it's good to go with V-kool again since it is proven to be good. No risk involved as it is a gamble if you with other cheaper tints which might or might not deliver the results that you want.

I now have Huper Optik Sech60 for front windscreen and C40 for all side and rear windscreens, all done up for RM1.7k ten years ago and cannot recommend it even though it's cheaper than V-kool. I find the heat rejection of the Huper Optik to be poor even when new. After 3 years, the car felt even hotter and after 5 or 6 years, if feels like there is no more tint on the car although it's still there stuck to the windscreens.

Now, according to ayamxx the Totalgard tint is comparable in heat rejection performance to the V-kool. The Totalgard costs around RM1k vs RM6k V-kool so it may be too good to be true but there's already one case here. I don't mind if the RM1k tint does not perform as good as RM7k tint since you can't complain much for the price you are paying. However, it must not be so poor that it gives only little difference when installed on the car. The Huper Optik at RM1.7k works well too but it is inferior to V-kool and also does not last long. Not sure how the Totalgard will compare to the Huper Optik or Vkool though.

If there are anymore cases of Totalgard users here who have switched from V-kool or Huper Optik, please share your experience here.

Put aside the jpj/puspakom compliant factor, which one has better heat performance?

1. VK55 (FWS) + VK40 (front side)
2. V-kool Elite (FWS) + VK40 (front side)

I got the quote for both combo above, the #1 is higher price by rm500 compared to #2. Is VK55 better performance than Elite?
They told me VK55 is latest Solitaire series as compare to Elite which is Serendipity series (older model).

Oh just a feedback on Horus tint, despite claiming the highest TSER rating out of other brands, my windscreen on 70% VLT tint seems to be still quite hot can feel the heat thru the windscreen during middle of the day..

72% TSER 99% IRR

Maybe windshield angle plays a part as you said i guess. And the aircon on the car also isnt very strong so that might contribute to the stinging feeling as well

As I stated, this car was bought for mum so I’ve had limited time behind the wheel, but initial impression is that it’s much better than the Toyota factory tint and the 3M Crystalline (which might have been a bad batch or fake) that was in her previous car. Front can still feel slight heat on very hot days (because there’s still a limit to what 60% VLT can do, same for my own car with V-kool 70 on the front and 55 on the sides), but there’s no stinging on the skin. Rear 30% VLT is extremely good. Possibly the best I’ve experienced. Car also cools down relatively fast after parking out in the sun, and once cooled down you don’t hear the “Auto” function on the air-con increasing/decreasing the fan speed to maintain temperature. It just stays low throughout the trip, whether driving under sun or shade.

Downsides are that my condo entry card reader doesn’t work, but auto-gate remote for mum’s landed house works, just that the distance is shorter (3 houses became 1 house distance). This is likely because the tint is blocking the signal but it’s still managing to pass through other parts of the car like the A-pillar or door seals. For keycard reader, no hope because window has to be parallel to scanner, so no choice but to wind down window. Phone signal also seems compromised a bit. Haven’t experienced any no-signal issues while on cellular or GPS so far, but when at mum’s house previously this phone could receive her wifi when inside the car while parked in the porch, but now cannot. Haven’t tested any SmartTag yet, because I use regular TnG or RFID on bumper.

Lastly, as with most multi-sputter/metallic tints, there’s a glossy mirror effect from the outside with a blue/green-ish color which might not suit all car colors. IrisPro is more blueish (aquamarine maybe), while V-kool is more green/yellow. If you prefer a charcoal/neutral tint then I guess ceramic tints are the best way to go.

Why not using Rfid?

May I know what are the 2 cars you plan to retint? More than 15 years old car and you are considering keeping both vehicles longer, must be precious to you.

What cars, if you don’t mind me asking?

i echo this statement. 97% iRR cannot work with smartag. < 95% can
actually vkool elite is not so elite one.. only 94% IRR

My wife was asking, since most tints have 99% UV protection and I ops for 98% IRR. Is there any possibility for fungus to grow inside the car... Asking for my wife...

Just had my car tint done at IrisPro Puchong. Highly recommended. The workmanship is top notch. Got free upgrade some more. Look for Ms. Ling. Detailed explanation on the spec and price in WhatsApp. Another detailed explanation and given before they start working on my car. I took their Elite series. No problem with Smart Tag.

Hamel spec also good for the price. Did my wife car earlier this year at their Setapak branch. Totally satisfied with the tint and their service. Price about the same with IrisPro just that they got charge for the old tint removal while IrisPro offered to do it for free.

JPJ* guidelines state 50% VLT (or lighter) for front side windows, so should pass. Only front windscreen needs to be 70% VLT if you want to conform.

If your “seems too low” is referring to visibility, it likely depends on the user. For me 50% VLT for the front half of the car (windscreen and windows) is still fine for even the darkest unlit underground carparks (as long as your headlights are on). My mum, aged 70+, is quite comfortable driving around with Diamond 60 for windscreen and windows. It mostly the rear boot/tailgate glass you need to be careful with, since going too dark (like below 30%) might affect visibility in the rear-view mirror.

*only for JPJ, different story if Puspakom because their meters are wonky and will minus 10% for every reading.

Raytech always like this. Rep actually has the price sheet sitting in front of him/her, but they want you to visit them in order to upsell their coating and PPF packages, telling you how much “savings” you get if take whole package.

Some shops also won’t give you price until they see what brand of car you drive. These kind of shops will quote more for a Mini Cooper than a X70.

If my experience with their Diamond series and a handheld Lingshang meter is anything to go by, IrisPro films are likely compensated for post-application VLT readings, but this might still be borderline depending on the glass on your car. On my mum’s Cross, Diamond 60 installed on front measured 60.1%, but Diamond 30 installed on rear measured 29% (but rear has no limit in the JPJ guidelines). Most local brands are like that nowadays. Their lighter films are usually a few percent lighter than series name (eg: Brand X 50 might actually measure 53) and their darker films measure slightly lower (eg: Brand X 35 is actually 32 when measured). Usually the “cut off” point is at 50%, tailored to compensate for our front side window regulations.

Most decent installers (for any brand) should have their demo samples already stuck onto glass to give a closer ballpark reading, so you can just pay them a visit and check yourself. You can also hold their film on your side windows without installing and have them take a reading first, although this method will only work if your glass already has its pre-installed film removed.

Edit:
Fyi, IrisPro Diamond and Elite series have slightly different hues. Elite is closer to neutral, while Diamond has more metallic/mirror finish. Likely due to differences in sputter type. I’m not sure how dramatic the difference will be, but do take note in case you decide to mix&match series types.

guys my car was sent to puspakom for checking during transfer of ownership and hadapan is 60% ketelusan cahaya, the result was lulus that time but the recent update at 70% means i have to change it?