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 Renovation Extreme Work In Progress, Sharing my house renovation journey.

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TSphoenix69
post Jun 15 2011, 01:16 AM, updated 9y ago

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Bought a second-hand basic house, totally without any renovation at all.
Going to renovate it totally.

Designer : Yours Truly tongue.gif
Budget : Don't wanna think about it (scary blink.gif )
What to Renovate : Nearly everything biggrin.gif
Criteria : Cheap, Nice and Good. laugh.gif

Sharing my journey in this forum.
Did some home work (going to all those expo the past 3 months).
Hope to share my joy, hopes, fear, achievements and slip ups with all who is interested. icon_rolleyes.gif
When I reach every stage of my renovation, hope to ask for help and information to help me make my choices. icon_question.gif

This is my house

user posted image


The Living Room

user posted image user posted image


The Ground Floor Room (to be converted into Kitchen)

user posted image


The 1st Floor W room (tell you guys later why its termed W)

user posted image


The Master Bedroom

user posted image


The Back Area
user posted image user posted image

Phew.... rclxub.gif This is gonna be a challenge.

Wish me luck. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 27 2011, 06:32 PM
iv'N
post Jun 15 2011, 02:03 AM

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G'luck!

Can't wait to see the transformation!
kochin
post Jun 15 2011, 06:49 AM

I just hope I do!
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pretty odd design.
guessing it's sime darby's product.
anyway congrats for your prop purchase and good luck in your journey.
it's gonna be a long and hard trip but well worth taking and of course finishing it.
lazzy_dogg
post Jun 15 2011, 08:46 PM

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what is ur current budget now? just curious.....
JinXXX
post Jun 15 2011, 08:49 PM

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so when is the actual commencement date for the renovation ? tongue.gif


eclipse-space
post Jun 15 2011, 10:48 PM

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Good luck! Lots of work. I estimate 200k incl fittings for super comfortable move in
TSphoenix69
post Jun 15 2011, 11:19 PM

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Thanks for the comments. biggrin.gif

You have a sharp eye and good knowledge of houses kochin.
Yes it is in USJ an old sime darby house.
Bought it mainly for the location. nod.gif

Current budget is around RM100k for renovation only. (wishful thinking?) tongue.gif

Actually renovation started about a week ago. sweat.gif

Gonna upload the pictures here soon. thumbup.gif
lazzy_dogg
post Jun 15 2011, 11:30 PM

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whao.... 100k for complete set up? tell us how u are doing it? i really having doubts on the quotations i got.....
just curious.... is this a 1 1/2 storey? the condo behind ur house looks very familiar.....
how much u got the place for?

TSphoenix69
post Jun 15 2011, 11:51 PM

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What I have done before commencing renovation. hmm.gif

1. I measured the whole house layout and drawn it near to scale using excel. Learned the method from tongue.gif
http://www.unisanet.unisa.edu.au/staff/pet...te_Building.htm

2. Invited a Feng Shui master to help to design the house for a more harmonious chi flow. biggrin.gif

3. With the input from the Feng Shui observation and what I wanted, I engaged a contractor for
- Ground Floor Extension (front and back)
- Internal house de-walling
- Porch widening
- Electrical wiring (expand to 3 phase)
- Total water pipe re-do.
I provided the contractor with the current and the expected floor layout plans I have drawn up myself for reference. blink.gif

4. As the renovation will include external extension to the current design, I have engaged an agent to help procure the permit from MPSJ. (still waiting for approval)
- The house is procured from a second hand owner, thus was unable to get the Certificate of Fitness and the Layout Plan, Getting an agent hopefully will expedite the process. He estimate 2-3 weeks. (it has been 10 days to date) hmm.gif

5. Started hacking (Internal house only) a week ago. External hacking will need to wait for the permit from MPSJ. wink.gif





zheilwane
post Jun 15 2011, 11:59 PM

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good luck and happy reno.
TSphoenix69
post Jun 16 2011, 12:04 AM

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QUOTE(eclipse-space @ Jun 15 2011, 10:48 PM)
Good luck! Lots of work. I estimate 200k incl fittings for super comfortable move in
*
You are probably correct. cry.gif Don't wanna think too deep about it yet . tongue.gif


Added on June 16, 2011, 12:13 am
QUOTE(lazzy_dogg @ Jun 15 2011, 11:30 PM)
whao.... 100k for complete set up? tell us how u are doing it? i really having doubts on the quotations i got.....
just curious.... is this a 1 1/2 storey? the condo behind ur house looks very familiar.....
how much u got the place for?
*
Not complete set up. shakehead.gif
Mainly hacking, building extension, electrical wiring and piping only. unsure.gif
There is still fittings
-Plaster Ceiling
-Flooring
-Tiles
-Windows
-Doors
-Kitchen Cabinet
-Furniture
-Appliances
Uuuugggghhhhh--- don't wanna think too much sweat.gif




This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 16 2011, 12:13 AM
weikee
post Jun 16 2011, 12:15 AM

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Have you select good date to start work?

Which USJ are you in? Mine is USJ 2 Maybe we can go compare idea smile.gif


USJ old area no CF, when i submit for approval don't need CF cause the original house owner don't have it too. Took me 1 month to complete.
Serofax
post Jun 16 2011, 02:29 AM

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seems like alot of subang ppl doing reno at this time =D

i'll be starting mine soon (waiting for MPSJ permit) in Putra heights ^^

if possible, would like to share ideas smile.gif
bhtan
post Jun 16 2011, 09:45 AM

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I think RM100k to do front and back extension plus all the new appliances and assessories are not likely enough. My back extension is already more than your budget and I only bought all new stuff for the kitchens and nothing else.
vincentjaya
post Jun 16 2011, 11:34 AM

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Interesting so please keep posting update.

PS: Your renovation not really as "extreme" as mine laaaa.....! biggrin.gif
lizziewong
post Jun 16 2011, 12:59 PM

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The back walls look like got water seepage problem. 3Phase will cost 10k minimum, plumbing min 5k. The porch if can do columnless will be comfortable. I think, will need 200k just for the wet works and basic struture. Another 50k for kitchen furniture, etc. If u need funding, just check out affin bank has a 36 months balance trnasfer at below 4% p.a. (eff interest). EON bank also quite cheap. Anyway, I used the credit cards to pay for aircons and kitchen, and whoever else willing to take my card...
lazzy_dogg
post Jun 16 2011, 01:03 PM

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thats nice to hear... smile.gif i am hoping i will be starting mine soon.... still no key yet.... sad.gif
jj5
post Jun 16 2011, 01:16 PM

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I call sime darby request for CF but requested to write in. Just provide your house address & they can email to you, free of charged. But if USJ2, not sure they still keep the record. No harm to try
weikee
post Jun 16 2011, 01:17 PM

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My normal electric re-wiring single phase already cost me around 12k. 3 phases will need around 15k +-, depend the points and how the electrical looping used.


Added on June 16, 2011, 1:18 pm
QUOTE(jj5 @ Jun 16 2011, 01:16 PM)
I call sime darby request for CF but requested to write in. Just provide your house address & they can email to you, free of charged. But if USJ2, not sure they still keep the record. No harm to try
*
For me no need, already got the Approval for renovation.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jun 16 2011, 01:18 PM
areankim
post Jun 16 2011, 07:14 PM

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floor need to change wor..
maybe need to hack here hack there...

rm100k is not enuf leh...
Mavik
post Jun 16 2011, 10:48 PM

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I wanted to change my house to 3 phase wiring as well but the contractor advised saying that I wouldn't have 4 air cons running hence don't really need 3 phase wiring. Why he mentioned that because they would need to request via TNB to pull in additional wires from outside and it would look ugly as well sad.gif
weikee
post Jun 16 2011, 11:18 PM

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QUOTE(Mavik @ Jun 16 2011, 10:48 PM)
I wanted to change my house to 3 phase wiring as well but the contractor advised saying that I wouldn't have 4 air cons running hence don't really need 3 phase wiring. Why he mentioned that because they would need to request via TNB to pull in additional wires from outside and it would look ugly as well sad.gif
*
A normal single phase, is usually supply with a 32Amp fuse, sometime can be slightly larger maybe 40

Technically, if you have 4 units of 1.5 HP, it use about 20 Amps in total. Normal house light use about 2 to 5 amps, unless you have lots of light.

If you have no water heater, you can run all 4 even more a/c without 3 phases.

Water heater use 15amps at Max heat, so if you have 2 water heater, just be aware how you want to use elec appliance.

TSphoenix69
post Jun 17 2011, 12:17 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 16 2011, 12:15 AM)
Have you select good date to start work?

Which USJ are you in? Mine is USJ 2 Maybe we can go compare idea smile.gif
USJ old area no CF, when i submit for approval don't need CF cause the original house owner don't have it too. Took me 1 month to complete.
*
Mine is in USJ 19. Got CF but the one I brought it from is a second hand owner thus, no CF copy. tongue.gif

weikee
post Jun 17 2011, 12:20 AM

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Mine also got, but like you owner don't have. So submit without CF, MPSJ approve also. Old housing area sure got CF lah.
TSphoenix69
post Jun 17 2011, 12:20 AM

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QUOTE(Serofax @ Jun 16 2011, 02:29 AM)
seems like alot of subang ppl doing reno at this time =D

i'll be starting mine soon (waiting for MPSJ permit) in Putra heights ^^

if possible, would like to share ideas smile.gif
*
Happy to share. That is the whole idea for this thread. rclxms.gif
Still waiting for permit too. unsure.gif


Added on June 17, 2011, 12:34 am
QUOTE(jj5 @ Jun 16 2011, 01:16 PM)
I call sime darby request for CF but requested to write in. Just provide your house address & they can email to you, free of charged. But if USJ2, not sure they still keep the record. No harm to try
*
I called too earlier for CF and Layout Plan. But when I called, they have just moved to Ara Damansara. In midst of unpacking. The lady told me that they do not have layout plan as the house was too old, but they can help find the CF but will take 1 month +. blink.gif


Added on June 17, 2011, 12:47 amTo share my main renovation cost.

To dismantle and rebuild a wider car porch, including renovating the whole drive way.
To re-do the whole house piping.
To dismantle and build up external ground floor walls for front and rear extension.
To dismantle some internal walls.
To change house electrical supply to 3 phase and re-wiring (excluding sockets and switch)

Initial cost estimate around RM75 k. rclxub.gif


Added on June 17, 2011, 1:07 amI have started renovation last week, according to the Feng Shui Master, he advised to start hacking between 7-9am.
Too early for the contractor to arrive, so I start myself. biggrin.gif

Things to do

1. Get a Big Hammer

user posted image


2. Whack the walls hard 3 times.

user posted image


3. Ta Dahh.... done, its started

user posted image


Later that day the contractor started the job and this is what the place looks like

user posted image user posted image user posted image

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 17 2011, 01:07 AM
weikee
post Jun 17 2011, 09:50 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 17 2011, 12:20 AM)
To share my main renovation cost.

To dismantle and rebuild a wider car porch, including renovating the whole drive way.
To re-do the whole house piping.
To dismantle and build up external ground floor walls for front and rear extension.
To dismantle some internal walls.
To change house electrical supply to 3 phase and re-wiring (excluding sockets and switch)

Initial cost estimate around RM75 k. rclxub.gif
The 75k you mention above sound right provided you did not add anything, but i think you missed 50% of the major cost.


Have you add the following?

- Permit application
- Tiles, and tiles labor
- Plaster ceiling if any
- Toilet water proofing
- Change of toilet WC
- Painting
- Kitchen Cabinet
- New door + frame
- Windows
- Alarm Wiring and system


Still got more to go.


edwardsiow
post Jun 17 2011, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 17 2011, 09:50 AM)
The 75k you mention above sound right provided you did not add anything, but i think you missed 50% of the major cost.
Have you add the following?

- Permit application
- Tiles, and tiles labor
- Plaster ceiling if any
- Toilet water proofing
- Change of toilet WC
- Painting
- Kitchen Cabinet
- New door + frame
- Windows
- Alarm Wiring and system
Still got more to go.
*
And Grille, Auto Gate, Air-con wiring...
gjohn
post Jun 17 2011, 10:39 AM

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the stairs doesn't look right...huhuhuh
weikee
post Jun 17 2011, 11:03 AM

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Sime trade mark design... Haha.. mine too look similar. Need to resize some of the photos before posting here.
TSphoenix69
post Jun 17 2011, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 17 2011, 09:50 AM)
The 75k you mention above sound right provided you did not add anything, but i think you missed 50% of the major cost.
Have you add the following?

- Permit application
- Tiles, and tiles labor
- Plaster ceiling if any
- Toilet water proofing
- Change of toilet WC
- Painting
- Kitchen Cabinet
- New door + frame
- Windows
- Alarm Wiring and system
Still got more to go.
*
You guys are right, its only 50% (that will be good tongue.gif )

Still have furniture and electrical appliances and Solar water heater. sweat.gif


Added on June 17, 2011, 11:31 pmI ve got a quote for the windows.
It is as below.

To supply and install 1.2thk aluminium frame
powder coated casement window c/w 5mm dark
green glass.

Price around RM35 -RM 36 / Square feet

(with frosted film)

Price RM50/ Square feet


To supply and install 1.2thk aluminium frame
powder coated sliding window c/w 5mm dark
green glass.

Price RM26/ Square feet



Any comments please. icon_question.gif



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 17 2011, 11:31 PM
recoil
post Jun 17 2011, 11:44 PM

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Wow, enjoy the process and looking forward to see updates
TSphoenix69
post Jun 18 2011, 12:30 AM

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Internal house hacking progress update.

The Hacking contractor brought in his own bin.
Its blocking the house entrance. ohmy.gif

user posted image


Ground Floor

user posted image user posted image


1st floor

user posted image


The de-construction starts.. brows.gif
eclipse-space
post Jun 18 2011, 12:44 AM

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Wow great stuff man!
vincentjaya
post Jun 18 2011, 09:10 PM

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Looking good!

PS: Like you, I also whacked a wall myself because contractor couldn't make it in time.
weikee
post Jun 19 2011, 09:34 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 17 2011, 11:25 PM)
You guys are right, its only 50% (that will be good  tongue.gif )

Still have furniture and electrical appliances and Solar water heater.  sweat.gif


Added on June 17, 2011, 11:31 pmI ve got a quote for the windows.
It is as below.

To supply and install 1.2thk aluminium frame
powder coated casement window c/w 5mm dark
green glass.

Price around RM35 -RM 36 / Square feet

(with frosted film)

Price RM50/ Square feet
To supply and install 1.2thk aluminium frame
powder coated sliding window c/w 5mm dark
green glass.

Price RM26/ Square feet
Any comments please.  icon_question.gif
*
1.2mm is thick, mine is about 1.05mm for 25 / sqft. Is it consider the Big material? or Small material? I know they usually sell two kind of windows (big or small), Ask them if they give inner and outter rubber.
sl2007
post Jun 19 2011, 10:41 AM

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Hi there,

Big material and small material are referring to the window profile..

Thickness is depending on the client requirement..
alhs76
post Jun 19 2011, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 15 2011, 01:16 AM)
Bought a second-hand basic house, totally without any renovation at all.
Going to renovate it totally.

Designer : Yours Truly  tongue.gif
Budget : Don't wanna think about it (scary  blink.gif )
What to Renovate : Nearly everything  biggrin.gif
Criteria : Cheap, Nice and Good.  laugh.gif

Sharing my journey in this forum.
Did some home work (going to all those expo the past 3 months).
Hope to share my joy, hopes, fear, achievements and slip ups with all who is interested.  icon_rolleyes.gif
When I reach every stage of my renovation, hope to ask for help and information to help me make my choices.  icon_question.gif

This is my house

user posted image
The Living Room

user posted image user posted image
The Ground Floor Room (to be converted into Kitchen)

user posted image
The 1st Floor W room (tell you guys later why its termed W)

user posted image
The Master Bedroom

user posted image
The Back Area
user posted image user posted image

Phew.... rclxub.gif  This is gonna be a challenge.

Wish me luck.  tongue.gif
*
sounding like a very happy house owner and renovator! smile.gif

good for you!




This post has been edited by alhs76: Jun 19 2011, 11:10 AM
bteoh
post Jun 19 2011, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(vincentjaya @ Jun 18 2011, 09:10 PM)
Looking good!

PS: Like you, I also whacked a wall myself because contractor couldn't make it in time.
*
is it necessary to do all this 'ceremony' prior to renovation??? how do u all got this time n date? i am not the hardcore believers of fengshui so i won't be hiring one just for knowing this. but if this can be gotten like we get the wedding date then no harm....smile.gif
TSphoenix69
post Jun 19 2011, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(lizziewong @ Jun 16 2011, 12:59 PM)
The back walls look like got water seepage problem.  3Phase will cost 10k minimum, plumbing min 5k.  The porch if can do columnless will be comfortable.  I think, will need 200k just for the wet works and basic struture.  Another 50k for kitchen furniture, etc.  If u need funding, just check out affin bank has a 36 months balance trnasfer at below 4% p.a. (eff interest).  EON bank also quite cheap. Anyway, I used the credit cards to pay for aircons and kitchen, and whoever else willing to take my card...
*
Errr... what is a water seepage? could you clarify, blink.gif
I wanna get my contractor to look in to it. Thanks. icon_question.gif
sl2007
post Jun 19 2011, 12:20 PM

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The back area...
TSphoenix69
post Jun 20 2011, 12:26 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 19 2011, 09:34 AM)
1.2mm is thick, mine is about 1.05mm for 25 / sqft.   Is it consider the Big material? or Small material?  I know they usually sell two kind of  windows (big or small),  Ask them if they give inner and outter rubber.
*
What is the spec difference between Big and Small material?
Is it the window frame or glass ?
What is difference between inner and outer rubber? icon_question.gif


Added on June 20, 2011, 1:01 amJust got a quote from a Plaster Ceiling contractor

Plainsheet board RM2.60 / sq feet

L.Box RM12.00 /feet

Fan Hock RM25.00/ piece

Round light RM5.00 /per cut hole

Square light RM8.00 / cut hole

Manhole RM100.00/ set

Cornice RM4.00 / feet

Any comments icon_question.gif ?

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 20 2011, 01:01 AM
edwardsiow
post Jun 20 2011, 11:24 AM

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the tong roro is from Alam flora?


Added on June 20, 2011, 11:25 am
QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 20 2011, 12:26 AM)
What is the spec difference between Big and Small material?
Is it the window frame or glass ?
What is difference between inner and outer rubber?  icon_question.gif


Added on June 20, 2011, 1:01 amJust got a quote from a Plaster Ceiling contractor

Plainsheet board  RM2.60 / sq feet

L.Box  RM12.00 /feet

Fan Hock  RM25.00/ piece

Round light  RM5.00 /per cut hole

Square light  RM8.00 / cut hole

Manhole RM100.00/ set

Cornice RM4.00 / feet

Any comments  icon_question.gif ?
*
compare with mine yours is expensive...

This post has been edited by edwardsiow: Jun 20 2011, 11:25 AM
bteoh
post Jun 20 2011, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 20 2011, 12:26 AM)
What is the spec difference between Big and Small material?
Is it the window frame or glass ?
What is difference between inner and outer rubber?  icon_question.gif


Added on June 20, 2011, 1:01 amJust got a quote from a Plaster Ceiling contractor

Plainsheet board  RM2.60 / sq feet

L.Box  RM12.00 /feet

Fan Hock  RM25.00/ piece

Round light  RM5.00 /per cut hole

Square light  RM8.00 / cut hole

Manhole RM100.00/ set

Cornice RM4.00 / feet

Any comments  icon_question.gif ?
*
wah...nowadays downlight cut hole also got diff price for round n square ar..... rclxub.gif
papaya2
post Jun 21 2011, 01:22 AM

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yr plaster ceiling quote is expensive, my house just done.

plain board = 2.2 / sqft
L.box = 8 / sqft
manhole = 50 / set
any fan hock, cut any type light hole = FOC
cornice = dont know the price bcoz i dont install it


Gary1981
post Jun 21 2011, 11:27 AM

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Is superb expensive.
My fan hook is free, down light hole is free, flat board at 2.20/sqft. Cornice can be various price for different design.


Added on June 21, 2011, 11:29 am
QUOTE(bteoh @ Jun 20 2011, 11:05 PM)
wah...nowadays downlight cut hole also got diff price for round n square ar..... rclxub.gif
*
This will happens when u assigned so call experienced contractor that will only cut your throat.

This post has been edited by Gary1981: Jun 21 2011, 11:29 AM
MakaiKnight
post Jun 21 2011, 11:40 AM

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hi Gary, papaya2, can PM me your contractor for the plaster ceiling ?
bhtan
post Jun 21 2011, 12:23 PM

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I thought now not many people would put cornices. I would have gotten rid of mine if I could.
TSphoenix69
post Jun 21 2011, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(papaya2 @ Jun 21 2011, 01:22 AM)
yr plaster ceiling quote is expensive, my house just done.

plain board = 2.2 / sqft
L.box = 8 / sqft
manhole = 50 / set
any fan hock, cut any type light hole = FOC
cornice = dont know the price bcoz i dont install it
*
Wow, the guy that quoted me must be quoting me with a gergaji ler shocking.gif
Could you please PM me your Plaster Ceiling contact. icon_question.gif
Thanks biggrin.gif


Added on June 21, 2011, 6:37 pm
QUOTE(Gary1981 @ Jun 21 2011, 11:27 AM)
Is superb expensive.
My fan hook is free, down light hole is free, flat board at 2.20/sqft. Cornice can be various price for different design.


Added on June 21, 2011, 11:29 am

This will happens when u assigned so call experienced contractor that will only cut your throat.
*
So much better than my quote . drool.gif
Please PM me your plaster ceiling contact icon_question.gif
I need to save to reduce the cost sweat.gif


Added on June 21, 2011, 8:25 pmRenovation Updates.

Further destruction !! flex.gif

The 1st floor is preety much cleared. It looks so "bald"

user posted image user posted image


The rubble at the Ground floor is blocking the stairs.

user posted image user posted image

When Going up to 1st floor, feels like have to climb up a treacherous mountain sweat.gif

This total chaos looks fun, but I know its hard work for the guy with the hammer tongue.gif



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 21 2011, 08:25 PM
bteoh
post Jun 21 2011, 10:43 PM

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wow....i can imagine mine like this later....
vincentjaya
post Jun 22 2011, 12:26 AM

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That picture of the stairs, looks like a river of parquets!
papaya2
post Jun 22 2011, 01:35 AM

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after put back new tile, will be so pretty...
Serofax
post Jun 22 2011, 01:33 PM

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TRANSFORM!! lol

you get that sense of excitement when you see progress =D
kelvyn
post Jun 22 2011, 04:12 PM

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the excitement is when they start putting in the finishes biggrin.gif
then you can see the transformation rclxms.gif
not forgetting the headache when the sub-contractors encountered unforeseen problems. Things like some services that needs to be relocated, etc Add cost cry.gif

But, overall, you will really appreciate it once you have clean up the place upon completion tongue.gif
TSphoenix69
post Jun 22 2011, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(bteoh @ Jun 21 2011, 10:43 PM)
wow....i can imagine mine like this later....
*
Make sure to take lots of picture. rclxms.gif


Added on June 22, 2011, 7:35 pm
QUOTE(vincentjaya @ Jun 22 2011, 12:26 AM)
That picture of the stairs, looks like a river of parquets!
*
Walking across the surface it is a challenge . I nearly kena a nail on the sole of my feet.
hafta wear safety shoes.


Added on June 22, 2011, 7:36 pm
QUOTE(papaya2 @ Jun 22 2011, 01:35 AM)
after put back new tile, will be so pretty...
*
I really hope so . Hope to get the right tile laying sifu.


Added on June 22, 2011, 10:42 pmInternal Hacking Updates.

The Bin is FULL biggrin.gif

user posted image


No more Dry Kitchen cry.gif

user posted image


Now just wait for the MPSJ permit. To continue....
If can't get then..... sweat.gif jialat lorrrr..... rclxub.gif


Added on June 23, 2011, 5:37 pm

After hacking, I am thinking to put in a termite control system.hmm.gif
Is there any suggestions? icon_question.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 23 2011, 05:37 PM
KVReninem
post Jun 23 2011, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 21 2011, 09:33 PM)
Wow, the guy that quoted me must be quoting me with a gergaji ler  shocking.gif
Could you please PM me your Plaster Ceiling contact. icon_question.gif
Thanks  biggrin.gif


Added on June 21, 2011, 6:37 pm
So much better than my quote .  drool.gif
Please PM me your plaster ceiling contact  icon_question.gif
I need to save to reduce the cost  sweat.gif


Added on June 21, 2011, 8:25 pmRenovation Updates.

Further destruction !!  flex.gif

The 1st floor is preety much cleared. It looks so "bald"

user posted image user posted image
The rubble at the Ground floor is blocking the stairs.

user posted image user posted image

When Going up to 1st floor, feels like have to climb up a treacherous mountain  sweat.gif

This total chaos looks fun, but I know its hard work for the guy with the hammer  tongue.gif
*
Hi TS, did your contractor use jack hammer to hammer all? or manual? unsure.gif
TSphoenix69
post Jun 25 2011, 12:39 AM

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QUOTE(KVReninem @ Jun 23 2011, 06:35 PM)
Hi TS, did your contractor use jack hammer to hammer all? or manual? unsure.gif
*
Errr....TS?

I really can't comment yet as coincidentally when I visit the site, the guy was always sleeping tongue.gif
tony2000
post Jun 25 2011, 01:07 AM

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nice sharing bro.. keep it up!
kelvyn
post Jun 25 2011, 09:04 AM

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Added on June 23, 2011, 5:37 pm

After hacking, I am thinking to put in a termite control system.hmm.gif
Is there any suggestions? icon_question.gif
*

[/quote]


you got it right. rclxms.gif Since you have removed all the flooring, better to put in termite treatment. For my house reno, I got the termite control people to drill and pump in the anti-termite stuff.
But you need to careful of the underground services before they start drilling...

Anti-termite treatment by drilling is much cheaper then having to use the other methods. Cost me abt RM1.2k. It depend on your ground floor built up area.
A peace of mind
ozak
post Jun 25 2011, 09:36 AM

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[quote=kelvyn,Jun 25 2011, 09:04 AM]

Added on June 23, 2011, 5:37 pm

After hacking, I am thinking to put in a termite control system.hmm.gif
Is there any suggestions? icon_question.gif
*

[/quote]
you got it right. rclxms.gif Since you have removed all the flooring, better to put in termite treatment. For my house reno, I got the termite control people to drill and pump in the anti-termite stuff.
But you need to careful of the underground services before they start drilling...

Anti-termite treatment by drilling is much cheaper then having to use the other methods. Cost me abt RM1.2k. It depend on your ground floor built up area.
A peace of mind
*

[/quote]
Is this chemical deal with the ground only? How about the roof and the rest of the place? The termite can infect from your neighbour through the roof. That is 1 of my friend house kena.
weikee
post Jun 25 2011, 09:42 AM

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The usual contractor will use the water based poison (chlorpyifos) even for roof which are not really good. They don't use oil based cause is 5x more expensive.

You can either ask the reno contractor do it for you, you buy the stuff. I brought some water based for them for the ground footing, and oil for the roof.
kelvyn
post Jun 25 2011, 10:15 AM

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I would suggest that if you are going to carry out the anti-termite treatment for the ground, might as well get them to quote you for the roof truss as well. In my opinion, it is better to let these professionals handle the chemical stuff.
You should be careful what chemicals that you place on your roof truss and it could affect your health...

weikee
post Jun 25 2011, 12:25 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jun 25 2011, 10:15 AM)
I would suggest that if you are going to carry out the anti-termite treatment for the ground, might as well get them to quote you for the roof truss as well. In my opinion, it is better to let these professionals handle the chemical stuff.
You should be careful what chemicals that you place on your roof truss and it could affect your health...
*
The oil based are on Class IV which is not bad. The Water based is Class II, which is crazy poison and ban in many country. The worker will do for me.

Last time i ask the so called professional also use Class II for roof. Crazy.
kelvyn
post Jun 25 2011, 12:29 PM

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if you are applying them in the roof, make sure that the chemical does not seep down into the room/ living space below. Health hazard...
This is something you do want to have later
weikee
post Jun 25 2011, 12:43 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jun 25 2011, 12:29 PM)
if you are applying them in the roof, make sure that the chemical does not seep down into the room/ living space below. Health hazard...
This is something you do want to have later
*
Yup, Class 4 is still ok, and furthermore after apply, it will be dry before plaster ceiling.
kelvyn
post Jun 25 2011, 12:54 PM

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Ok. If you have considered/ taken the necessary precautions, that it is good rclxms.gif
ozak
post Jun 25 2011, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 25 2011, 12:43 PM)
Yup, Class 4 is still ok, and furthermore after apply, it will be dry before plaster ceiling.
*
When your roof is burning hot, the chemical will evaporate and release slowly out from the wood. Will the plaster ceiling absorb it and release down to the room? Or it become powder form stick to the wood. But slowly drop down to the ceiling. hmm.gif
weikee
post Jun 25 2011, 01:29 PM

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You think the roof can reach 100c? oil won't evaporate even at 100c. Smell sure got, any treatment will have smell for few weeks, just like paint.

This is the same method many use to treat wood in some country.
TSphoenix69
post Jun 26 2011, 12:26 AM

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I am toying with the idea of D.I.Y instead of getting a professional.
Something like
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1771159/+20
What do you think.? icon_question.gif


Added on June 26, 2011, 12:47 am
QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 25 2011, 12:25 PM)
The oil based are on Class IV which is not bad. The Water based is Class II, which is crazy poison and ban in many country. The worker will do for me. 

Last time i ask the so called professional also use Class II for roof. Crazy.
*
I don't mind if the poison is the powerful bordering on dangerous type as long as it is effective. brows.gif
I am thinking that by the time I move in after renovation, it will around 2-3 months after the treatment, thus hoping by then the smell will go away and I will be left with a super powerful termite protection. tongue.gif
How was your "so called professional" cost and effectiveness,
can use ah?? blink.gif
If ok one, please PM me the contact.


Added on June 27, 2011, 6:37 pmFinally got my layout plan ported in to JPEG file

Layout Plan - Ground Floor Carport - Original and Renovate

user posted imageuser posted image


Layout Plan - Ground Floor - Original and Renovate

user posted image user posted image


Layout Plan - 1st Floor - Original and Renovate

user posted image user posted image

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 27 2011, 06:37 PM
sl2007
post Jun 28 2011, 10:31 PM

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Hi there,

Are shifting the Car Porch column / tiang?
vatiore
post Jun 28 2011, 11:46 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 16 2011, 02:17 PM)
My normal electric re-wiring single phase already cost me around 12k. 3 phases will need around 15k +-, depend the points and how the electrical looping used.


Added on June 16, 2011, 1:18 pm

For me no need, already got the Approval for renovation.
*
RM12k for 1-phase re-wiring? too expensive mate.... If anyone want to rewiring let me know for 1phase, i can do it around RM9k.
weikee
post Jun 29 2011, 12:39 AM

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QUOTE(vatiore @ Jun 28 2011, 11:46 PM)
RM12k for 1-phase re-wiring? too expensive mate.... If anyone want to rewiring let me know for 1phase, i can do it around RM9k.
*
For 9k, how many looping are you using per 13 Amps socket? does it come with Earth? brand of MCB you plan to use? How many DB box you give? how many core of Amour cable provide? How many water heater points? how many Astro points, Does it include installation of Lights? down lights?

Just list down the quantity and I will do the math.
TSphoenix69
post Jun 29 2011, 08:42 AM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Jun 28 2011, 10:31 PM)
Hi there,

Are shifting the Car Porch column / tiang?
*
Yes. As you can see from the pictures, the columm is narrow.
Going to dismantle the Carporch tiand and build up a wider one. sweat.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 29 2011, 08:42 AM
weikee
post Jun 29 2011, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 29 2011, 08:42 AM)
Yes. As you can see from the pictures, the columm is narrow.
Going to dismantle the Carporch tiand and build up a wider one.  sweat.gif
*
If your pillar is 1ft 1ft, ask the contractor put 3" pipe inside the pillar. So you don't have to put outer pipe.
sl2007
post Jun 29 2011, 05:28 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 29 2011, 08:42 AM)
Yes. As you can see from the pictures, the columm is narrow.
Going to dismantle the Carporch tiand and build up a wider one.  sweat.gif
*
I guess you have consulted the Engineers in terms of the structure capacity... If not, maybe engage a Engineer to look into it... I not too sure what does your existing column supporting....
TSphoenix69
post Jun 29 2011, 06:45 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 29 2011, 10:24 AM)
If your pillar is 1ft  1ft, ask the contractor put 3" pipe inside the pillar. So you don't have to put outer pipe.
*
Good idea. thanks


Added on June 29, 2011, 6:46 pm
QUOTE(sl2007 @ Jun 29 2011, 05:28 PM)
I guess you have consulted the Engineers in terms of the structure capacity... If not, maybe engage a Engineer to look into it...  I not too sure what does your existing column supporting....
*
Err.Contractor only . Not building RC, just roof. No plans to extend the 2nd floor. blush.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 29 2011, 06:46 PM
sl2007
post Jun 29 2011, 08:16 PM

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If u intend to cast your RWDP into your column, please make sure is uPVC.. Not mistaken is Class E..

You mean car porch roof? If yes, your SC most know the concept of load transfer prior removing the old column...
TSphoenix69
post Jun 29 2011, 08:38 PM

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Called up Ridpest. Rentokill, NLC and Okin on the phone to inquire about getting Termite control

hmm.gif

Ridpest - the sales man says that with my current renovation stage, should go for the drilling system. Not recommended to spray the roof truss, very poisonous for resident. (using local chemicals)

Rentokill - the salesman recommend the drilling system and when I inquired about the Termguard Reticulation system, he says it is not suitable as it is costly (+/- 20k) and only can put in before the house is built. (using Bayer)

NLC- The salesman recommend a package, Drilling and Sentricon system together.

Okin - the salesman says that they only have Sentricon System.

All need to look at the house before giving actual quotation.

From the initial discussion, the impression I get is.
- Drilling- Guarantee up to 5 year better to use Bayer.
- Spraying truss - not recommended, termite comes from the ground thus if you kill the queen then the roof termite will die off too.
-Termguard Reticulation system - pricey like hell and the piping need to be set in before house is built.
-Drilling is the cheapest 2k-3k
-Sentricon- 3-5k and yearly maintainence arounf 700 - 1k .

rclxub.gif


My house has a slight termite infection, not major but need to clear of before I move in....unsure.gif


Any suggestion on which way to go?!? icon_question.gif



weikee
post Jun 29 2011, 08:45 PM

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Like i say earlier, many so call Pro use poison Class 2.

They don't op to use oil based that is Class 4 cause is 10x more expensive. So better go buy yourself ask the indo / contractor to help spray the roof wood.
kelvyn
post Jun 29 2011, 09:38 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 29 2011, 09:38 PM)
Called up Ridpest. Rentokill, NLC and Okin on the phone to inquire about getting Termite control

hmm.gif

Ridpest - the sales man says that with my current  renovation stage, should go for the drilling system. Not recommended to spray the roof truss, very poisonous for resident. (using local chemicals)

Rentokill - the salesman recommend the drilling system and when I inquired about the Termguard Reticulation system, he says it is not suitable as it is costly (+/- 20k) and only can put in before the house is built. (using Bayer)

NLC- The salesman recommend a package, Drilling and Sentricon system together.

Okin - the salesman says that they only have Sentricon System.

All need to look at the house before giving actual quotation.

From the initial discussion, the impression I get is.
- Drilling- Guarantee up to 5 year better to use Bayer.
- Spraying truss - not recommended, termite comes from the ground thus if you kill the queen then the roof termite will die off too.
-Termguard Reticulation system - pricey like hell and the piping need to be set in before house is built.
-Drilling is the cheapest 2k-3k
-Sentricon- 3-5k and yearly maintainence arounf 700 - 1k .

rclxub.gif
My house has a slight termite infection, not major but need to clear of before I move in....unsure.gif
Any suggestion on which way to go?!?  icon_question.gif
*
Since you are renovating, I would suggest that you go for the drilling method plus getting the specialist to get rid of the termites that are present in the house. Better to do now before they expand their "territory" and causing more damage.



PJusa
post Jun 29 2011, 11:42 PM

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give stopest a call. i found them trough lowyat and they did a good job with drilling + bayer agenda. not that costly either.
kelvyn
post Jun 30 2011, 10:54 AM

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don't be penny wise pound foolish
TSphoenix69
post Jun 30 2011, 12:47 PM

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Now all work KIV, waiting for MPSJ permit to continue.
Submitting in this week.
Keeping my fingers crossed. blink.gif
Now the house is quite bare "Hairless"

Ground Floor

user posted image user posted image


1st Floor

user posted image user posted image


weikee
post Jun 30 2011, 01:47 PM

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Wow, can do so much without permit. No people Kacau?
kelvyn
post Jun 30 2011, 01:50 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 30 2011, 02:47 PM)
Wow, can do so much without permit. No people Kacau?
*
probably the guys kacau, that's why stop until get the permit smile.gif
weikee
post Jun 30 2011, 01:59 PM

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Why not you build a small room under the stair? can be store room.

user posted image
ozak
post Jun 30 2011, 03:17 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 30 2011, 12:47 PM)
Now all work KIV, waiting for MPSJ permit to continue.
Submitting in this week.
Keeping my fingers crossed.  blink.gif
Now the house is quite bare "Hairless"

Ground Floor

user posted image user posted image
If your stair Modify to direct down, will it save more space and look nicer?
weikee
post Jun 30 2011, 03:44 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 30 2011, 03:17 PM)
If your stair Modify to direct down, will it save more space and look nicer?
*
Depend where the door is. Is not nice to open door see stair.
kelvyn
post Jun 30 2011, 05:06 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 30 2011, 04:44 PM)
Depend where the door is. Is not nice to open door see stair.
*
bad feng shui smile.gif
KVReninem
post Jun 30 2011, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 30 2011, 03:47 PM)
Now all work KIV, waiting for MPSJ permit to continue.
Submitting in this week.
Keeping my fingers crossed.  blink.gif
Now the house is quite bare "Hairless"

Ground Floor

user posted image user posted image
1st Floor

user posted image user posted image
*
just wondering; why you dont take away those ceiling fans in your house? unsure.gif
weikee
post Jun 30 2011, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jun 30 2011, 05:06 PM)
bad feng shui  smile.gif
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Yes if you believe. Else just ignore.
TSphoenix69
post Jun 30 2011, 06:56 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 30 2011, 01:47 PM)
Wow, can do so much without permit. No people Kacau?
*
According to contractor and the architect, as long as you do not do any modification that change the outside shape, anything inside is your own business. cool2.gif
weikee
post Jun 30 2011, 06:59 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 30 2011, 06:56 PM)
According to contractor and the architect, as long as you do not do any modification that change the outside shape, anything inside is your own business.  cool2.gif
*
When they come, they can say noise level unacceptable ask you here and there. You know we no longer "Bersih" cause is ban. Now is Kotor.
TSphoenix69
post Jun 30 2011, 07:02 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jun 30 2011, 03:17 PM)
If your stair Modify to direct down, will it save more space and look nicer?
*
QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jun 30 2011, 05:06 PM)
bad feng shui  smile.gif
*
Generally if the stair directly faces the exit, not so good Feng shui. But my stairs turned to the side OK lah. cool2.gif
Furthermore gonna do some renovation there, give the area a good "Hei". Show you guys later. biggrin.gif


Added on June 30, 2011, 7:03 pm
QUOTE(KVReninem @ Jun 30 2011, 05:32 PM)
just wondering; why you dont take away those ceiling fans in your house? unsure.gif
*
Later,then decide. If no budget reuse lor... KDK brand wor... tongue.gif


Added on June 30, 2011, 7:06 pm
QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 30 2011, 06:59 PM)
When they come, they can say noise level unacceptable ask you here and there. You know we no longer "Bersih" cause is ban. Now is Kotor.
*
Wahhhh...like that I "Jialat" lorr....... cry.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jun 30 2011, 07:06 PM
weikee
post Jun 30 2011, 07:06 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 30 2011, 07:02 PM)

Later,then decide. If no budget reuse lor... KDK brand wor... tongue.gif
*
Now the fan don't come with the big box to control the speed. Wall look nicer.
atih007
post Jun 30 2011, 07:41 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 30 2011, 06:56 PM)
According to contractor and the architect, as long as you do not do any modification that change the outside shape, anything inside is your own business.  cool2.gif
*
my fren's house kena kacau although no modification at outside. sweat.gif
kelvyn
post Jun 30 2011, 08:51 PM

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QUOTE(atih007 @ Jun 30 2011, 08:41 PM)
my fren's house kena kacau although no modification at outside.  sweat.gif
*
when these people wants to kacau, they will come up with everything...
TSphoenix69
post Jul 1 2011, 12:37 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 17 2011, 11:25 PM)
You guys are right, its only 50% (that will be good  tongue.gif )

Still have furniture and electrical appliances and Solar water heater.  sweat.gif


Added on June 17, 2011, 11:31 pmI ve got a quote for the windows.
It is as below.

To supply and install 1.2thk aluminium frame
powder coated casement window c/w 5mm dark
green glass.

Price around RM35 -RM 36 / Square feet

(with frosted film)

Price RM50/ Square feet
To supply and install 1.2thk aluminium frame
powder coated sliding window c/w 5mm dark
green glass.

Price RM26/ Square feet
Any comments please.  icon_question.gif
*
Got new that aluminium prices will be going up on the 7th july.
Need to lock in price now.
Sigh.... any recommendations??
kelvyn
post Jul 1 2011, 01:43 PM

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depend on your quantity. If the quantity is a lot, then can bargain. If only for one window, then not much bargaining power..

Just wondering why you are using dark green glass? Were you looking to reduce the heat transmitter into your house?
TSphoenix69
post Jul 1 2011, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jul 1 2011, 01:43 PM)
depend on your quantity. If the quantity is a lot, then can bargain. If only for one window, then not much bargaining power..

Just wondering why you are using dark green glass? Were you looking to reduce the heat transmitter into your house?
*
Whole house wor, should be giving me a reasonable price mah,,,,
Dark Green Glass - more for aesthetic reason.
kelvyn
post Jul 1 2011, 09:12 PM

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Have you tried asking for quotation from different supplier?
There are slight price difference depending on the type of aluminium sections
for the window.
casement windows will slightly more the the sliding. Top hung will cost even more.
TSphoenix69
post Jul 14 2011, 09:21 PM

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Finally !! I got the permit thumbup.gif

user posted image


Its time to start again .. brows.gif

weikee
post Jul 14 2011, 09:34 PM

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How much did you burn to get the permit?
TSphoenix69
post Jul 14 2011, 10:16 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 14 2011, 09:34 PM)
How much did you burn to get the permit?
*
RM 3100.00 (this include the bin deposit) cool2.gif
weikee
post Jul 14 2011, 10:22 PM

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Cheap woh.

ozak
post Jul 14 2011, 10:33 PM

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Applying the permit got cheap and expensive? Or standard pricing?
weikee
post Jul 14 2011, 10:59 PM

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There is no standard pricing.
TSphoenix69
post Jul 14 2011, 11:02 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jul 14 2011, 10:33 PM)
Applying the permit got cheap and expensive? Or standard pricing?
*
I think it depends on the agent. sweat.gif
According to my agent he charge around different only by a few hundred dollars depending on extent of the renovation (e,g. extend front, back, 1 st floor ).
Different type oh house (intermediate/corner/bungalow) he charge different price range. yawn.gif
It seems that it is easier to apply in Selangor compared to KL. thumbup.gif
ozak
post Jul 14 2011, 11:12 PM

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Wah, like this, if don't no, anyhow the agent can say rm4k or rm10k. sweat.gif
weikee
post Jul 15 2011, 12:26 AM

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Mine is about 5k, come with 1K "tong".
Serofax
post Jul 15 2011, 01:40 AM

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i did mine...standard DSL, extend backyard only, total RM1500 (architect)+RM850(MPSJ) = RM2350 (incl bin deposit)
TSphoenix69
post Jul 15 2011, 08:40 AM

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Guess its similar to getting a renovation contractor. No standard price. Depends on luck tongue.gif
kelvyn
post Jul 15 2011, 08:55 AM

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The Alam Flora's tong charges are very much more expensive as compared to those that you get from outside suppliers. However, there is a requirement that you need to use at least ONE tong from Alam Flora. sad.gif
Does not matter if you use their small or big tong. Just have to use at least one.

The good thing is that the balance of the deposit will be refunded if not use. biggrin.gif

weikee
post Jul 15 2011, 09:10 AM

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The agent told me claim back is very troublesome so I use all the 1K deposit for dump


Added on July 15, 2011, 9:10 amThe agent told me claim back is very troublesome so I use all the 1K deposit for dump

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 15 2011, 09:10 AM
kelvyn
post Jul 15 2011, 09:19 AM

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Hahaha. Don't need agent to do all these.. Of course your agent will say troublesome as it would be additional work for them.

After you reno work completion, just go to the Alam Flora counter at MPSJ as fill in the form. Submit and wait for them to post you the refund cheque. Takes a month or two for the refund.

When they collect deposit, then want immediate payment BUT when they are to refund, have to wait. mad.gif
weikee
post Jul 15 2011, 10:10 AM

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Anyway, already use up the tong, and not enough. Must well spend it since already spend the money. Rely them to post and Malaysia Postal service really hopeless.
lovemail
post Jul 15 2011, 01:46 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 14 2011, 09:21 PM)
Finally !! I got the permit  thumbup.gif

user posted image
Its time to start again ..  brows.gif
*
rclxms.gif
congrate
TSphoenix69
post Jul 16 2011, 04:59 PM

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Initial walkabout research

During the 2 weeks while I was waiting for my MPSJ permit approval,
I've spent some time looking into, available supplier for
1. Windows (Glass and Aluminum)
2. Plaster Ceiling
3. Window Grille.

Being a total novice, I decided to do it this way....

a) Look at Lowyat Forum. tongue.gif

b) Look in to Superpages and zero down to available supplier in Puchong (chose Puchong because it seems that there is many suppliers and its near my place)

c) write(scrawl) down the address on a piece of paper
user posted image

d)ascertain the location via google map and print out a copy then pin point the area
user posted image

e) drive around and visit them.

I'll share my findings with you all later.

Few points I've noticed. Usually only the boss can give you a quote.
Usually they will only be around their office in before lunch. After lunch, out on their jobs.
Every new visit you will learn something new.
The more technical things you know, the more things you will consider, the more headache you will have. rclxub.gif

I may not go for the cheapest but just want to make sure that,
i) I feel comfortable with they guy I choose
ii) I avoid getting slaughtered, I don't mind paying not the cheapest.
iii) I know where they are ..... (if they con me... you will all know)
iv) I at least know something before making a decision, not just blindly choose.

I did not visit all on the list but around 70%. Some moved or closed shop. Either that or I just can't meet the boss.

After these exercise, I surrender liao. rclxub.gif

Need to take a breather.. sweat.gif

kelvyn
post Jul 16 2011, 05:15 PM

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WOW rclxms.gif rclxms.gif rclxms.gif

You really when to that extend smile.gif
Hopefully all your effort is not in vain.

bteoh
post Jul 16 2011, 06:03 PM

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I don't need a permit & my main con supply unlimited tong for me @600 only wink.gif
TSphoenix69
post Jul 17 2011, 01:13 AM

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QUOTE(bteoh @ Jul 16 2011, 06:03 PM)
I don't need a permit & my main con supply unlimited tong for me @600 only wink.gif
*
MPSJ Permit = "hostage" to MPSJ (Ransom - Rent Alam Flora Bin) sad.gif
kelvyn
post Jul 17 2011, 10:54 AM

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you can just use one tong only (from Alam Flora) and for the rest of the tongs required, you can get from outside suppliers. very much cheaper
orientaliew
post Jul 17 2011, 07:21 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 16 2011, 04:59 PM)
Initial walkabout research

During the 2 weeks while I was waiting for my MPSJ permit approval,
I've spent some time looking into, available supplier for
1. Windows (Glass and Aluminum)
2. Plaster Ceiling
3. Window Grille.

Being a total novice, I decided to do it this way....

a) Look at Lowyat Forum.  tongue.gif

b) Look in to Superpages and zero down to available supplier in Puchong (chose Puchong because it seems that there is many suppliers and its near my place)

c) write(scrawl) down the address on a piece of paper
user posted image

d)ascertain the location via google map and print out a copy then pin point the area
user posted image

e) drive around and visit them.

I'll share my findings with you all later.

Few points I've noticed. Usually only the boss can give you a quote.
Usually they will only be around their office in before lunch. After lunch, out on their jobs.
Every new visit you will learn something new.
The more technical things you know, the more things you will consider, the more headache you will have.  rclxub.gif
i am doing almost the same thing as you while waiting for the draftman to draw the option. biggrin.gif
can't agreed morr that "the more things you will consider, the more headache you will have". icon_rolleyes.gif
I may not go for the cheapest but just want to make sure that,
i) I feel comfortable with they guy I choose
ii) I avoid getting slaughtered, I don't mind paying not the cheapest.
iii) I know where they are ..... (if they con me... you will all know)
iv) I at least know something before making a decision, not just blindly choose.

I did not visit all on the list but around 70%. Some moved or closed shop. Either that or I just can't meet the boss.

After these exercise, I surrender liao.  rclxub.gif

Need to take a breather.. sweat.gif
*
weikee
post Jul 17 2011, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jul 17 2011, 10:54 AM)
you can just use one tong only (from Alam Flora) and for the rest of the tongs required, you can get from outside suppliers. very much cheaper
*
Make sure the cheap supplier dump to the correct / approved location. If they dump roadside the authority will come after the house owner too. Read in paper few time before.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 17 2011, 09:14 PM
kelvyn
post Jul 18 2011, 09:15 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 17 2011, 10:13 PM)
Make sure the cheap supplier dump to the correct / approved location. If they dump roadside the authority will come after the house owner too.  Read in paper few time before.
*
Actually they are not cheap supplier. If you were to use Alam Flora, they will in turn engage these companies to to supply the tongs. So, you are basically going directly to the companies itself. Save 3rd party's commission tongue.gif
TSphoenix69
post Jul 18 2011, 11:32 PM

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Initial Walkabout Research

Below is what I gathered from my random discussion with various suppliers.
Some information are deducted and some are information provided by the bosses. sweat.gif

1. Windows (Glass and Aluminum)

1. Windows are made up of suppliers that convert aluminum extruded shaft and glass panes to form in to Windows.

2. The main point to look out for is :-

a) The thickness of the aluminum shaft. (0.9mm - 1.4mm) maybe more thickness available.
The thicker the sturdier but no need to go overboard. The bigger the windows, need thicker thus stronger aluminum shaft.

b) The thickness and the types of the glass panes. Regular,Laminated, Tempered, Frosted, Colored

c) The types of lock, standard twist lock or concealed types (this needs thicker aluminum shaft 1.2mm above) that is more expensive.

d) There is standard hinge (The ones with the bars shaft thinge on the bottom of the windows limiting the cascade windows swing out degrees or the loose swings type (dunno much about this only pricier and need thicker aluminum.

e) Types of windows, cascade, slide, toilet cascade swing up type and fixed panes.

f) Coating on the aluminum.(color types)

I zeroed 1.2mm aluminum, Dark Green Glass, Regular 5mm Dark Green Glass, standard twist lock, standard hinge, Multiple types of windows and powder coated.

The price I got ranged from RM 25 - RM 26 - RM 35 for cascade windows. doh.gif

rclxub.gif


Talk about Plaster Ceiling later ....

weikee
post Jul 18 2011, 11:53 PM

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For plaster ceiling, ask the installer to put fiberglass. In Chinese you tell them to put "Chou", is to stick between the aluminum rod and the board.
bteoh
post Jul 19 2011, 12:21 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 18 2011, 11:53 PM)
For plaster ceiling, ask the installer to put fiberglass. In Chinese you tell them to put "Chou", is to stick between the aluminum rod and the board.
*
what is that? new to me....

but is this something usual they put? if yes, then is it you want to advise that we should make sure they put?
if it is not something usual, then proly...u request they tell u need add $$$ lor...
weikee
post Jul 19 2011, 12:31 AM

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Don't know. This is suggest by my BiL, he told me is common now. He is a site supervisor. The fiberglass should not be expensive. What they do just dip the fiberglass to some liquid, and just throw on top of the metal strip that screw the gypsy board. When is dry, it will hold it better, and more solid.

He told his contractor to do my house with this method too. The price i got for the plaster ceiling job is much cheaper than what i find in lowyat. (is contractor price)

When my house plaster ceiling job start i put some picture. Maybe in 3 weeks time.
TSphoenix69
post Jul 19 2011, 06:02 PM

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Initial Walkabout Research

Below is what I gathered from my random discussion with various suppliers.
Some information are deducted and some are information provided by the bosses.

2. Plaster Ceiling


1. Plaster Ceiling installers are made up of contractors that install aluminium frames on your ceiling then stick plaster boards on to the frame that finally made up your ceiling.

2. Wiring for lights has to be ready before installation.

3. The holes for lightning is cut after the plaster boards is installed.

4. There is Plain Boards (majority of ceiling ares are made up of this, There are decorative pattern design that can be added (sorta like sistine chapel dome design thingy) - depend on individual taste lor.

5. The main point to look out for is :-

a) Thickness of the plaster boards 8mm, 9mm and 11mm (this is the stock I saw)
-(thicker better of course)

b) The aluminium framr types (25,, width, 30mm width and 35mm width) Thicker better - of course

c) how much they charge for Cornice (Side skirting - up to individual), L box (parts of the plaster ceiling that jut down) and Light holes. This might just make up the major cost eventually. doh.gif

I zeroed on 9mm thick plaster boards and 35mm width aluminium frame.

The price I've got eanged from RM2.40 - 2.80/ sq feet for plaster boards.

L.Box RM9.00 -RM12.00 - /feet

Fan Hock FOC-RM25.00/ piece

Round light RM2.00-RM5.00 /per cut hole

Square light RM4.50-RM8.00 / cut hole

Manhole RM60.00-RM120.00/ set

Cornice RM3.00-RM4.00 / feet

So many things to consider rclxub.gif

Should be something like this :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaZUsgAZj0Q


Finally talk about Window Grille later


Added on July 20, 2011, 6:20 pm
QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jun 29 2011, 08:38 PM)
Called up Ridpest. Rentokill, NLC and Okin on the phone to inquire about getting Termite control

hmm.gif

Ridpest - the sales man says that with my current  renovation stage, should go for the drilling system. Not recommended to spray the roof truss, very poisonous for resident. (using local chemicals)

Rentokill - the salesman recommend the drilling system and when I inquired about the Termguard Reticulation system, he says it is not suitable as it is costly (+/- 20k) and only can put in before the house is built. (using Bayer)

NLC- The salesman recommend a package, Drilling and Sentricon system together.

Okin - the salesman says that they only have Sentricon System.

All need to look at the house before giving actual quotation.

From the initial discussion, the impression I get is.
- Drilling- Guarantee up to 5 year better to use Bayer.
- Spraying truss - not recommended, termite comes from the ground thus if you kill the queen then the roof termite will die off too.
-Termguard Reticulation system - pricey like hell and the piping need to be set in before house is built.
-Drilling is the cheapest 2k-3k
-Sentricon- 3-5k and yearly maintainence arounf 700 - 1k .

rclxub.gif
My house has a slight termite infection, not major but need to clear of before I move in....unsure.gif
Any suggestion on which way to go?!?  icon_question.gif
*
Need to rush to get termite treatment for the house before renovation gets too far ahead. Been delaying in this front for too long

From trawling the LYN forum and decided to focus on Drilling and spraying roof truss using Bayer's Agenda 2.5 EC.

Called up 3 suppliers. It seems that only a few companies are Authorised Accredited Applicator for Bayer’s Agenda Termite Colony Management (Called up stopest, nexus and bumipest)

They will drill holes and apply the chemical in the house. Outside the house they will only drill holes and apply the chemical at the columm area.

How they apply the chemicals to the roof truss is yet to be seen but it is included in my package.

Price range from RM2300 to RM3500.

Warantty range from 3 - 5 years depending on suppliers.

Finally decided on the middle supplier (not the cheapest) - the same one that some member recomendded me in this forum.

They are coming tomorrow to do the job. Estimated time to complete 5 hours.

Will take some pictures if I am there. brows.gif


Added on July 21, 2011, 4:33 pmRenovation Update....

The Raw material and people had moved in

user posted image user posted image



The front is full of sand and the back work has already started.

user posted image user posted image


Added on July 21, 2011, 4:46 pmtst


This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 21 2011, 04:46 PM
orientaliew
post Jul 21 2011, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 19 2011, 06:02 PM)
Initial Walkabout Research

Below is what I gathered from my random discussion with various suppliers.
Some information are deducted and some are information provided by the bosses.

2. Plaster Ceiling
1. Plaster Ceiling installers are made up of contractors that install aluminium frames on your ceiling then stick plaster boards on to the frame that finally made up your ceiling.

2. Wiring for lights has to be ready before installation.

3. The holes for lightning is cut after the plaster boards is installed.

4. There is Plain Boards (majority of ceiling ares are made up of this, There are decorative pattern design that can be added (sorta like sistine chapel dome design thingy) - depend on individual taste lor.

5. The main point to look out for is :-

a) Thickness of the plaster boards 8mm, 9mm and 11mm (this is the stock I saw)
-(thicker better of course)

b) The aluminium framr types (25,, width, 30mm width and 35mm width) Thicker better - of course

c) how much they charge for Cornice (Side skirting - up to individual), L box (parts of the plaster ceiling that jut down) and Light holes. This might just make up the major cost eventually.  doh.gif

I zeroed on 9mm thick plaster boards and 35mm width aluminium frame.

The price I've got eanged from RM2.40 - 2.80/ sq feet for plaster boards.

L.Box RM9.00 -RM12.00 - /feet

Fan Hock FOC-RM25.00/ piece

Round light RM2.00-RM5.00 /per cut hole

Square light RM4.50-RM8.00 / cut hole

Manhole RM60.00-RM120.00/ set

Cornice RM3.00-RM4.00 / feet

So many things to consider  rclxub.gif

Should be something like this :- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaZUsgAZj0Q
*
rclxms.gif this is a good lesson to me, thanks for sharing. icon_rolleyes.gif
TSphoenix69
post Jul 22 2011, 09:10 AM

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QUOTE(orientaliew @ Jul 21 2011, 05:35 PM)
rclxms.gif this is a good lesson to me, thanks for sharing. icon_rolleyes.gif
*
smile.gif You are welcome...
PJusa
post Jul 22 2011, 09:26 AM

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FYI i suggest you avoid the standard lock&hinge for the windows. they dont seal properly - get a conceiled lockset with multiple lock points (make sure its not just on one side but all three sides (not where the hinges are) and get windows with integrated hinges too. those windows are significantly more sturdy and will effectively seal the house (i.e. no hot air coming, less dust, no cool air leaving the house, less noise). plus side: really hard to break into less breaking the glass. if you get good glass you make thief's life real hard wink.gif
TSphoenix69
post Jul 22 2011, 09:56 AM

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Termite Men Cometh part 1 tongue.gif

They came they inspected

user posted imageuser posted imageuser posted image

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 22 2011, 10:07 AM
stevenX
post Jul 22 2011, 10:02 AM

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this place got termite problem ?
TSphoenix69
post Jul 22 2011, 10:07 AM

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QUOTE(stevenX @ Jul 22 2011, 10:02 AM)
this place got termite problem ?
*
Nope. Prevention only biggrin.gif


Added on July 22, 2011, 10:08 amTermite Men Cometh part 2

They started drilling holes.....
Holes 1'-2' deep was drilled approximately 1' apart all along around the perimeter/border/circumfrance of the house

user posted imageuser posted imageuser posted imageuser posted imageuser posted imageuser posted image


Added on July 22, 2011, 10:21 amTermite Men Cometh part 3

Bayer Agenda 2.5 EC solution was dissolved in water and pumped im to the holes (approx 15 second/hole)

user posted imageuser posted imageuser posted image

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 22 2011, 10:21 AM
kelvyn
post Jul 22 2011, 10:37 AM

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Good... rclxms.gif
do check that when they were drilling the holes, no underground water piping were accidentally damaged smile.gif
TSphoenix69
post Jul 22 2011, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jul 22 2011, 10:37 AM)
Good... rclxms.gif
do check that when they were drilling the holes, no underground water piping were accidentally damaged  smile.gif
*
I hope not shocking.gif ...I guess I'll know in a few days time if there is water seepage on the ground later.


Added on July 22, 2011, 11:16 amTermite Men Cometh part 4

Since the back has not laid concrete yet .. spray all over,
spray the toilet wall,
more holes pumping inside the house
spray the roof truss
pump on to the car porch columm foundation....
spray spray sprayyyyy.......

user posted imageuser posted imageuser posted imageuser posted imageuser posted imageuser posted image


Around 5 hours work ...phew
sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 22 2011, 11:16 AM
ozak
post Jul 22 2011, 11:29 AM

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Do they have warranty? Last time my home using rentokil termite spray. Have 10yrs warranty with cert. If between 10yrs got termite, can claim them.
TSphoenix69
post Jul 22 2011, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jul 22 2011, 11:29 AM)
Do they have warranty? Last time my home using rentokil termite spray. Have 10yrs warranty with cert. If between 10yrs got termite, can claim them.
*
They provide 5 year warranty with Bayer's Agenda 2.5ec.
The 10 year warranty one should be Monsanto's chlordane (banned substance but damm power) bruce.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 22 2011, 12:08 PM
adputra
post Jul 22 2011, 01:17 PM

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Just adding to ur current headache.... tongue.gif
U need to start thinking of ur wiring and electrical at this stage... Or else u will missing plug/switch/ac point best location...
Here is my 2 cents...

http://renotalk.20.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=164140
TSphoenix69
post Jul 22 2011, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(adputra @ Jul 22 2011, 01:17 PM)
Just adding to ur current headache.... tongue.gif
U need to start thinking of ur wiring and electrical at this stage... Or else u will missing plug/switch/ac point best location...
Here is my 2 cents...

http://renotalk.20.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=164140
*
biggrin.gif yeah I know. That is my next "emergency" meeting potential wireman on sunday tongue.gif


Added on July 22, 2011, 1:30 pmRenovation Update:-

My future car porch columm base and My future back room....

user posted imageuser posted image


How they lay a concrete floor:-

Lay wire mesh

user posted imageuser posted image

Mix concreate and pour over the area

user posted imageuser posted image


Ta Dahhhh thumbup.gif

user posted image




This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 22 2011, 01:30 PM
kucingfight
post Jul 22 2011, 03:58 PM

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Hi juz wondering, how do you determine if the column base needed/need not to have wooden support?
TSphoenix69
post Jul 22 2011, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(kucingfight @ Jul 22 2011, 03:58 PM)
Hi juz wondering, how do you determine if the column base needed/need not to have wooden support?
*
From what I understand from my contractor, A columm is basically a concrete formed around a skeleton (woven steel bars). No need wooden support. Wood are used as formers for the concrete only (they form as tempoary outer shell for the not yet hardened concrete to enable the concrete to get its final form). nod.gif

Do not know of columm base needing wooden support. shakehead.gif

Maybe only support as in concrete formers only... hmm.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 22 2011, 06:28 PM
kucingfight
post Jul 22 2011, 07:50 PM

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ok thanks, actually, i'm new to renovation, i'm aso planning to do kitchen extension, but my renovator said. footing (kayu bakau) X3 has to be done first. isit necessary? or depending on soil condition?
bteoh
post Jul 22 2011, 08:18 PM

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looks very watery the cementing.....
TSphoenix69
post Jul 22 2011, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(bteoh @ Jul 22 2011, 08:18 PM)
looks very watery the cementing.....
*
Fresh liao... rclxm9.gif
kelvyn
post Jul 22 2011, 09:17 PM

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QUOTE(kucingfight @ Jul 22 2011, 08:50 PM)
ok thanks, actually, i'm new to renovation, i'm aso planning to do kitchen extension, but my renovator said. footing (kayu bakau) X3 has to be done first. isit necessary? or depending on soil condition?
*
If the soil condition below your footing is soft and not able to take the load from the structure above, then one of the way is to use piling. The type of piling (material) required will depends on the load and also the soil type. The material for piling can be timber, RC, steel, etc.

In most cases, the loads from a house extension are not too heavy that requires piling, unless the soil is very soft or the footing is situated close to a slope, etc. First option is to try enlarging the footing's size instead of using piling as it will be much cheaper the piling. Only when this does not work, then only piling comes in. As piling is more expensive.

Bakau trees are found in mangrove swamps wetlands. These can be use as piles to support light loads. As Bakau trees are found in mangrove swamps, they should only be used in water logged soil. If you try to place Bakau into dry soil, the material will deteriorate in no time; thus defeat it purpose.


This post has been edited by kelvyn: Jul 22 2011, 09:21 PM
sl2007
post Jul 23 2011, 08:21 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 22 2011, 01:23 PM)
biggrin.gif yeah I know. That is my next "emergency" meeting potential wireman on sunday  tongue.gif


Added on July 22, 2011, 1:30 pmRenovation Update:-

My future car porch columm base and My future back room....

user posted imageuser posted image
How they lay a concrete floor:-

Lay wire mesh

user posted imageuser posted image

Mix concreate and pour over the area

user posted imageuser posted image
Ta Dahhhh    thumbup.gif

user posted image
*
From the first pic, I think your SC has damaged one of the Pipe... did you get any Engineer to design your house Structure?


TSphoenix69
post Jul 23 2011, 09:09 PM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Jul 23 2011, 08:21 PM)
From the first pic, I think your SC has damaged one of the Pipe... did you get any Engineer to design your house Structure?
*
The pipes are from the existing roof pipe waterways outlet.
Going to re-do car porch roof so making a new water pipe outlet.
Going to do the whole house plumbing system.
Is a Engineer required in this circumstances?
sl2007
post Jul 23 2011, 09:26 PM

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I just kind of doubtful with the workmanship....
kelvyn
post Jul 23 2011, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 23 2011, 10:09 PM)
The pipes are from the existing roof pipe waterways outlet.
Going to re-do car porch roof so making a new water pipe outlet.
Going to do the whole house plumbing system.
Is a Engineer required in this circumstances?
*
If your renovation work involves any structures (whether demolition or addition), the local authority, would have required a Structural Engineers' s design before they will give their approval. Go check and refer to your submitting consultant. biggrin.gif
property user
post Jul 23 2011, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jul 23 2011, 09:45 PM)
If your renovation work involves any structures (whether demolition or addition), the local authority, would have required a Structural Engineers' s design before they will give their approval. Go check and refer to your submitting consultant.  :D
*
Definitely, the construction would not comply to design requirements. No proper beam between columns. Base slab thickness looks too thin. In any case, don't think authority allows extension to the end of the boundary. There must be some setback. However, in Malaysia, nearly everyone extend their kitchen to the end of their boundary.
vatiore
post Jul 24 2011, 09:09 AM

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Your new footing need to connect with existing?
TSphoenix69
post Jul 24 2011, 10:50 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jul 23 2011, 09:45 PM)
If your renovation work involves any structures (whether demolition or addition), the local authority, would have required a Structural Engineers' s design before they will give their approval. Go check and refer to your submitting consultant.  biggrin.gif
*
This one follow what the architect drawings (who also happens to be the submitting consultant that apply MPSJ permit) design. biggrin.gif
Thus design approved by MPSJ. rclxms.gif


Added on July 24, 2011, 10:57 am
QUOTE(property user @ Jul 23 2011, 11:10 PM)
Definitely, the construction would not comply to design requirements. No proper beam between columns. Base slab thickness looks too thin. In any case, don't think authority allows extension to the end of the boundary. There must be some setback. However, in Malaysia, nearly everyone extend their kitchen to the end of their boundary.
*
The kitchen boundary extension is also according to the architect drawings that is approved by MPSJ. biggrin.gif
They allow back extenion to the max, I of course more than happy, more room liao. rclxms.gif
The extension only involves the ground floor. If involves the 1st floor back extension then I understand, there is a limit involved. hmm.gif


Added on July 24, 2011, 11:01 am
QUOTE(vatiore @ Jul 24 2011, 09:09 AM)
Your new footing need to connect with existing?
*
For the front car porch, going to demolish and rebuild the whole thing. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 24 2011, 11:01 AM
kelvyn
post Jul 24 2011, 11:37 AM

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QUOTE(property user @ Jul 24 2011, 12:10 AM)
Definitely, the construction would not comply to design requirements. No proper beam between columns. Base slab thickness looks too thin. In any case, don't think authority allows extension to the end of the boundary. There must be some setback. However, in Malaysia, nearly everyone extend their kitchen to the end of their boundary.
*
Most local authorities allows rear extension up to the boundary with 450mm roof overhang. smile.gif
Without looking at the actual work, it would not be proper to comment that the construction is not in compliance. tongue.gif
If you take a proper look at some of the earlier photos, you will noticed that the ground beam was constructed below the ground slab. This was so that the beam will not block the doorway (back door)
As to whether the beam was constructed to specification, cannot comment as not much was shown.
sl2007
post Jul 25 2011, 07:12 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jul 24 2011, 11:37 AM)
Most local authorities allows rear extension up to the boundary with 450mm roof overhang.  smile.gif
Without looking at the actual work, it would not be proper to comment that the construction is not in compliance.  tongue.gif
If you take a proper look at some of the earlier photos, you will noticed that the ground beam was constructed below the ground slab. This was so that the beam will not block the doorway (back door)
As to whether the beam was constructed to specification, cannot comment as not much was shown.
*
Honestly speaking, from the attach photo there is lots of incompliance in terms of "standard practice"..

Whether the beam is built up to the slab or below the slab is nothing to do with the back door.. Is whether the design is Suspended or Non Suspended..

There is lot of non-compliance from the attached photo in both workmanship and design..
vatiore
post Jul 25 2011, 09:06 AM

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Just wonder back extension part, new footing did connect to existing footing or slab or not.
gunh
post Jul 25 2011, 10:09 AM

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how come they never put a plastic sheet at the floor before the steel mesh and concrete???? they should also put a spacer....
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post Jul 25 2011, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(vatiore @ Jul 25 2011, 09:06 AM)
Just wonder back extension part, new footing did connect to existing footing or slab or not.
*
I am not sure what you mean, but if you mean footing as in the existing floor inside the house, the old existing marble floors are totally hacked.


Added on July 25, 2011, 11:20 am
QUOTE(gunh @ Jul 25 2011, 10:09 AM)
how come they never put a plastic sheet at the floor before the steel mesh and concrete???? they should also put a spacer....
*
according to the contractor - usually when the developer build up from empty land they put plastic sheet.
As the base is still there, no need to put plastic sheet in this instance.


spacer - what is this? blink.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Jul 25 2011, 11:32 AM
tiensong
post Jul 25 2011, 11:51 AM

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for the car porch, do we need to put steel at the bottom of the floor?


weikee
post Jul 25 2011, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Jul 25 2011, 11:51 AM)
for the car porch, do we need to put steel at the bottom of the floor?
*
Yes, cause there chances of the concrete resting on the soil may loose up. And concrete will crack. If the floor is already RC then no need.
tiensong
post Jul 25 2011, 12:24 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 25 2011, 12:21 PM)
Yes, cause there chances of the concrete resting on the soil may loose up. And concrete will crack. If the floor is already RC then no need.
*
I will hack and re-tile the floor of whole car porch...I am wondering whether the previous floor has steel underneath or not...


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post Jul 25 2011, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Jul 25 2011, 08:12 AM)
Honestly speaking, from the attach photo there is lots of incompliance in terms of "standard practice"..

Whether the beam is built up to the slab or below the slab is nothing to do with the back door.. Is whether the design is Suspended or Non Suspended..

There is lot of non-compliance from the attached photo in both workmanship and design..
*
So, care to elaborate on whether this should be Suspended or Non suspended? smile.gif
Why?
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post Jul 25 2011, 05:47 PM

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i see normally ppl will put spacer to secure on the wire mesh so that the wire mesh will be about 20mm in the concrete slab... probally more strength....



QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 25 2011, 11:18 AM)

spacer - what is this?  blink.gif
*
sl2007
post Jul 25 2011, 06:31 PM

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QUOTE(gunh @ Jul 25 2011, 05:47 PM)
i see normally ppl will put spacer to secure on the wire mesh so that the wire mesh will be about 20mm in the concrete slab... probally more strength....
*
Actually that thing called Concrete Cover.. The main purpose is the protect the steel rod from contacting the soil as well as a gap for concrete to cover your steel rod..
Kim Concept
post Jul 26 2011, 03:40 AM

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PM me if any1 need consultation + quotation up 2 ur budget..
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post Jul 26 2011, 10:55 AM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Jul 25 2011, 06:31 PM)
Actually that thing called Concrete Cover.. The main purpose is the protect the steel rod from contacting the soil as well as a gap for concrete to cover your steel rod..
*
Oh. This is new to me. I'll talk to the contractor before he do the car porch. Thanks. Can a PE plastic sheet serve the same purpose?
sl2007
post Jul 26 2011, 11:49 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 26 2011, 10:55 AM)
Oh. This is new to me. I'll talk to the contractor before he do the car porch. Thanks. Can a PE plastic sheet serve the same purpose?
*
PE sheet serve different purpose.. It act as ground moisture barrier..
sl2007
post Jul 26 2011, 08:37 PM

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Dear Dato Chika,

I agreed with you... I foresee a lot of crackline later....
TSphoenix69
post Jul 27 2011, 11:16 PM

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A note of interest:-
My place has become Motel de Indon tongue.gif

Bed n Board + Cafe de Indon

user posted imageuser posted image




sweat.gif

weikee
post Jul 27 2011, 11:31 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 27 2011, 11:16 PM)
A note of interest:-
My place has become Motel de Indon  tongue.gif

Bed n Board   +  Cafe de Indon

user posted imageuser posted image
sweat.gif
*
Mine too. Your worker still better. Mine live without a proper toilet as all my 3 toilet are remove and relocate. Only setup temporary WC on the un-tiles, no door toilet.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 27 2011, 11:31 PM
TSphoenix69
post Jul 28 2011, 12:04 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 27 2011, 11:31 PM)
Mine too. Your worker still better. Mine live without a proper toilet as all my 3 toilet are remove and relocate. Only setup temporary WC on the un-tiles, no door toilet.
*
Actually, their situation is same as your workers, when the hacking crew did their job, all toilet bowl habis. tongue.gif
So they actually bought a new RM100 toilet bowl themselves to use. laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif
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post Jul 28 2011, 12:06 AM

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just a reminder, when u r installing ur w.c (toilet bowl) rmb not to install the seat cover first....
TSphoenix69
post Jul 28 2011, 12:11 AM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Jul 28 2011, 12:06 AM)
just a reminder, when u r installing ur w.c (toilet bowl) rmb not to install the seat cover first....
*
Errr why ah ? blink.gif


Added on August 1, 2011, 12:10 pmInitial Walkabout Research

Ok the final part of my previous "chap pa lang" research on window grille. tongue.gif

3. Grille

There is mainly 2 types of window grille.

Those olden type squarish "to fu box" type and those curvy with leaf design type called Wrought Iron type.

1. To Fu Box type.

There is generally 3 types I know of.
a) Those that are made up of half inch by half inch squarish tubes.
b) Those that are made up of half inch by 1 inch squarish tubes.
c) Those that are made up of flat steel 2-3mm by half inch.

I don't know much about the b) and c) type but the a) type they are charging around RM8-9/square feet, just like windows.


2. Wrought Iron Type

They let you choose the design you want from a Directory like catalogue,
The design are usually of long stemmed plants.
They buy the leaves and the flower buds of the design you want then attach them to the iron bars that they bend themselves to your design.

So far the prices range between RM18-RM24 / square feet, also like windows.


Finishing:-
There are so far 3 type of finishings that I know of.
a) Painting - This will allow difftent colors on the same grille, especially good for Wrought Iron type as they allow green, red, brown and copper colours on the plant design grille.
b) Powder coat - This will only allow one single colour on the grille. Good for some protection on the grille against rust but not total protection
c) Galvanize - this will provide total protection against rust.

I only know the charge RM2-3 for the powder coating. (some says that the cheaper charges involves recycled powder coat material)

One more thing to consider, how many free open-able grill (in case of emergency escape) they offer. Open-able type window grill require more material and work (double frame and hinges)

Whew.. Kaw thim with this part of mt reeeeessseeeaaarrrrchheee tongue.gif sweat.gif


Added on August 2, 2011, 2:21 pmRenovation Update ..

The Car porch Columm is up, The pipes is as advised by weikee rclxms.gif

user posted imageuser posted image


The back extension wall is up..

user posted imageuser posted image


Kitchen Enlargement.. tongue.gif Jusr use Hammer flex.gif

user posted imageuser posted image

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 2 2011, 02:21 PM
weikee
post Aug 3 2011, 02:05 PM

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You doing the RC slab for parking porch right? how many feet? the pipe insert should be sufficient. Mine is extend 6ft slab and pipe per pillar (two pillar)


Gary1981
post Aug 3 2011, 05:03 PM

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Saw ur contractor using sand bricks, why not ask to use red bricks?
chamelion
post Aug 3 2011, 05:15 PM

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you should ask the contractor to build a half foot tall and >45 degree ramp along the outer of rear kitchen wall. this will make the outsider difficult to stand at the edge to peek into ur house.

the rear staircase can be remove cause u will not using it at all. if wan escape, u can just jump down...

also, ask the contractor to put more wood at the roof of rear portion at not more then 8 inch apart to prevent buglar access to ur house via roof. in fact is norm to add beam even at existing roof cause most of the buglar is access via roof.


Added on August 3, 2011, 5:16 pmdepend how old is the house, u may wan to consider to lay new main pipe from front to ur kitchen as existing one may rust or leak.

pull the autogate wire now. install the gate or not doesnt matter.

This post has been edited by chamelion: Aug 3 2011, 05:23 PM
TSphoenix69
post Aug 3 2011, 05:31 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 3 2011, 02:05 PM)
You doing the RC slab for parking porch right? how many feet? the pipe insert should be sufficient. Mine is extend 6ft slab and pipe per pillar (two pillar)
*
Yes RC Slab for Car porch.
17 feet from the new main entrance door.
The pipe is as per your suggestions. biggrin.gif


Added on August 3, 2011, 5:34 pm
QUOTE(Gary1981 @ Aug 3 2011, 05:03 PM)
Saw ur contractor using sand bricks, why not ask to use red bricks?
*
Sand Bricks has SiRIM standard, Harder, Cheaper.
Clay Bricks is Cooler, Better looking and Pricier.
I choose Cheaper tongue.gif


Added on August 3, 2011, 5:40 pm
QUOTE(chamelion @ Aug 3 2011, 05:15 PM)
you should ask the contractor to build a half foot tall and >45 degree ramp along the outer of rear kitchen wall. this will make the outsider difficult to stand at the edge to peek into ur house.

the rear staircase can be remove cause u will not using it at all. if wan escape, u can just jump down...

also, ask the contractor to put more wood at the roof of rear portion at not more then 8 inch apart to prevent buglar access to ur house via roof. in fact is norm to add beam even at existing roof cause most of the buglar is access via roof.


Added on August 3, 2011, 5:16 pmdepend how old is the house, u may wan to consider to lay new main pipe from front to ur kitchen as existing one may rust or leak.

pull the autogate wire now. install the gate or not doesnt matter.
*
"a half foot tall and >45 degree ramp" - Hmm... gotta think about this, practical but not nice looking leh.. hmm.gif

Will be removing the existing staircase and build a new one outside the new door location.

Redoing the whole piping system.

Armor cable will be installed .. brows.gif Autogate ... dunno yet, depends on balance $$$$$ sweat.gif


Added on August 3, 2011, 6:02 pmMy contractor says that its time to get the back door.
Prompted by this did some Lowyat trawling and found out about Security Doors
As time was short spent my weekend to source for one.
Choosen to look around Puchong area and this was what I found.

Security Doors

These doors was actually a China Idea.

Went to 3 supplier

Shinjin Homewares Marketing - Went to their factory in Puchong. They manufacture the doors locally. Designs seems limited. They stressed that theirs is local manuafctured thus better QA.

Morris Decor Malaysia - They sell China sourced products. Has 4 china factory source with diffrent quality grades. Price for the size 3' X 7' security door range between around RM1200 - RM 2000. One of the top suppliers of security doors.

Top Security Door Enterprise - The current top dog in Security door supply (looks like it). They manufacture their security door in their Teluk Gong factory. From their showroom, their quality is relatively consistant thus no diffrent range in terms of quality, only design and size. Damm nice showroom.


Initially was only looking for the back door but when I went there,
they were having a promotion from carried over from July Homedec and it was the last day.
Offered front 5' X 7' and back 3' X 7' for RM 3500.00. I sapu ... rclxm9.gif




This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 3 2011, 06:02 PM
weikee
post Aug 3 2011, 07:44 PM

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Just something you may want to consider. The cheap security door always jam, and end up dismantle entire door for replacement. This is from my locksmith friend.
kochin
post Aug 3 2011, 08:48 PM

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bro,
saw your picture on the rear extension.
might be too late but it would be worth your while to have slightly higher wet kitchen area. do not have your roof to be aligned with the others. where possible, have it about a feet higher.
when you construct higher than norm, chances are your neighbour will need to construct lower than yours.
my problem was, i constructed mine first at normal height. my bloody neighbour constructed higher and his roof water spillover to mine! sad.gif

weikee
post Aug 3 2011, 09:24 PM

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QUOTE(kochin @ Aug 3 2011, 08:48 PM)
bro,
saw your picture on the rear extension.
might be too late but it would be worth your while to have slightly higher wet kitchen area. do not have your roof to be aligned with the others. where possible, have it about a feet higher.
when you construct higher than norm, chances are your neighbour will need to construct lower than yours.
my problem was, i constructed mine first at normal height. my bloody neighbour constructed higher and his roof water spillover to mine! sad.gif
*
RC or normal clay roof? if spillover is only the side water, that is ok. But if its the front portion, is the neighbor contractor responsible to add a gutter.
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post Aug 3 2011, 09:55 PM

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the side water.
it is spilling onto my side board which is timber and it's rotting.
darn!
ycs
post Aug 3 2011, 10:21 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 3 2011, 02:05 PM)
You doing the RC slab for parking porch right? how many feet? the pipe insert should be sufficient. Mine is extend 6ft slab and pipe per pillar (two pillar)
*
what is the purpose of putting pvc pipes into the columns?
weikee
post Aug 3 2011, 10:33 PM

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QUOTE(ycs @ Aug 3 2011, 10:21 PM)
what is the purpose of putting pvc pipes into the columns?
*
to hide the gutter, on the floor, the pipe will have a L bend out and connect to a bigger pipe under the floor and flow out to the drain.
jphlau
post Aug 4 2011, 08:51 AM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Jul 25 2011, 06:31 PM)
Actually that thing called Concrete Cover.. The main purpose is the protect the steel rod from contacting the soil as well as a gap for concrete to cover your steel rod..
*
from the slab picture, i believe there are no cover allowances for the bottom part of the slab... sweat.gif
TSphoenix69
post Aug 7 2011, 05:34 PM

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QUOTE(jphlau @ Aug 4 2011, 08:51 AM)
from the slab picture, i believe there are no cover allowances for the bottom part of the slab... sweat.gif
*
Discussed with the contractor already... when his indon workers were laying the slab,he was not there. doh.gif
Well ... blush.gif what done is done.
The next one will sure to put on spacer. nod.gif


Added on August 7, 2011, 5:54 pmRenovation Update...

The front and car porch are going through major changes

The car porch RC roof structure is up. flex.gif

user posted imageuser posted image


The front wall all destroyed bruce.gif

user posted image


Then . . . . . . . . . . .


MAJOR ISSUE. Si Tao Po complain !!

user posted image

doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 7 2011, 05:54 PM
sl2007
post Aug 7 2011, 06:47 PM

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Y major design blooper?
bteoh
post Aug 7 2011, 07:41 PM

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i also think its a blooper + fengshui problem....
TSphoenix69
post Aug 7 2011, 09:29 PM

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My boss lady do not like the design. rclxub.gif
Says that it blocked her 1 st floor windows view. doh.gif
Have to nego with contractor to re-do tomorrow. sweat.gif
weikee
post Aug 7 2011, 09:44 PM

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remove the conventional roof. Use RC slab. But you need to make sure you have another beam / supporting pillar around 12 to 15'


Added on August 7, 2011, 9:46 pmAhh, you remove 2 major pillars. Where you adding new one to support?

user posted image



This post has been edited by weikee: Aug 7 2011, 09:46 PM
TSphoenix69
post Aug 8 2011, 04:59 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 7 2011, 09:44 PM)
remove the conventional roof. Use RC slab. But you need to make sure you have another beam / supporting pillar around 12 to 15'


Added on August 7, 2011, 9:46 pmAhh, you remove 2 major pillars. Where you adding new one to support?

user posted image
*
The major pillar/columm is still there, next to the door.
They are going to set up another 2 new corner pillar/columm at the new corner of the extended wall(Extreme left and right),
then put a new RC beam across joining the 2 new pillar and the existing pillar providing support. flex.gif

kelvyn
post Aug 8 2011, 05:13 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 8 2011, 05:59 PM)
The major pillar/columm is still there, next to the door.
They are going to set up another 2 new corner pillar/columm at the new corner of the extended wall(Extreme left and right),
then put a new RC beam across joining the 2 new pillar and the existing pillar providing support.  flex.gif
*
The columns are there for a reason. You may remove stiffeners BUT NOT columns without first propping up the supported beams. It is very dangerous as anything may happen. Would suggest that you get your contractor to prop back the beams without any further delay.
I would not stay under the structure until all the temporary props are properly in place.

Better get a structural Engineer to take a look on your proposed new supporting pillar & Beam.

Basically, you need to have the replacement supports in place before you can remove the existing ones.

This post has been edited by kelvyn: Aug 8 2011, 05:14 PM
sl2007
post Aug 8 2011, 07:11 PM

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I saw his house problem since dayone... I think our friend here just looked into $$$ too much till ignore the house safety... Good Luck my friend...

This post has been edited by sl2007: Aug 8 2011, 10:18 PM
weikee
post Aug 8 2011, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 8 2011, 04:59 PM)
The major pillar/columm is still there, next to the door.
They are going to set up another 2 new corner pillar/columm at the new corner of the extended wall(Extreme left and right),
then put a new RC beam across joining the 2 new pillar and the existing pillar providing support.  flex.gif
*
The way my contractor build is made the new pillar, wait 2 weeks before knock down the pillar.

Between end to end of the beam i hope the max is no more than 16' or less, my contractor told me better no more than 16' else very dangerous.
kelvyn
post Aug 8 2011, 09:27 PM

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If the structural beam has been properly designed for, it can even go up to 20' clear span. No problem.
weikee
post Aug 8 2011, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 8 2011, 09:27 PM)
If the structural beam has been properly designed for, it can even go up to 20' clear span. No problem.
*
Tell me about it.

When my contractor remove the plaster of the old house beam and pillar. Dam we were surprise. One of the the pillar was build not tall enough, then latter add on the Concrete, We can see one pillar two difference tone of concrete and the top part was like 1 feet of difference color concrete before the beam is land on.
kelvyn
post Aug 8 2011, 09:49 PM

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That could also mean that the 1st concreting of the column was not high enough. Thus a 2nd casting of the column and therefore you see the different in colour. All this is OK provided the column's steel bars are extended into the concrete beam.
However, if the column was stopped short and the gap between the top of the column and the bottom of the beam was patch up with cement mortar/ with bricks, then it is a cause for concern.
weikee
post Aug 8 2011, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 8 2011, 09:49 PM)
That could also mean that the 1st concreting of the column was not high enough. Thus a 2nd casting of the column and therefore you see the different in colour. All this is OK provided the column's steel bars are extended into the concrete beam.
However, if the column was stopped short and the gap between the top of the column and the bottom of the beam was patch up with cement mortar/ with bricks, then it is a cause for concern.
*
Yeah, my contractor told me too, but funny the concrete so easy to peal out. I can use screwdriver and push out the cement and rock.

Anyway, we never want to hack and see the bar, but instead add another pillar in front (below my parking porch), and extend the beam. So now my house center beam is support with 3 pillars. <6feet beam>+<4feet beam>+<16feet beam>+ ("+" represent pillar)


kelvyn
post Aug 9 2011, 10:28 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 8 2011, 11:00 PM)
Yeah, my contractor told me too, but funny the concrete so easy to peal out. I can use screwdriver and push out the cement and rock.

Anyway, we never want to hack and see the bar, but instead add another pillar in front (below my parking porch), and extend the beam. So now my house center beam is support with 3 pillars. <6feet beam>+<4feet beam>+<16feet beam>+  ("+" represent pillar)
*
Am not sure what your contractor have done. I am not implying that what he has done is wrong or anything. smile.gif
Introducing additional supports at the wrong location can be detrimental as the structure could behave differently from it original intention.

e.g. This is a case that I have come across in a house renovation project years back.
Some car porch are designed as a cantilever structure. Meaning that there is no support at the extreme end. (for aesthetic reason) The contractor then added a support as the house owner wanted to add a RC slab over the car porch. The structure collapse but luckily no one was around when it happened.

For safety sake, I really hope your contractor knows what he is doing.
weikee
post Aug 9 2011, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 9 2011, 10:28 AM)
Am not sure what your contractor have done. I am not implying that what he has done is wrong or anything. smile.gif
Introducing additional supports at the wrong location can be detrimental as the structure could behave differently from it original intention.

e.g. This is a case that I have come across in a house renovation project years back.
Some car porch are designed as a cantilever structure. Meaning that there is no support at the extreme end. (for aesthetic reason) The contractor then added a support as the house owner wanted to add a RC slab over the car porch. The structure collapse but luckily no one was around when it happened.

For safety sake, I really hope your contractor knows what he is doing.
*
Yes, there is additional on both end my 6' parking porch RC Slab, and one in the center. I told my contractor i need the Beam to support additional load for future 6' skylight temper glass, and minimal weight is about 1 Ton for the beam need to support.

The new center beam, and pillar is additional support to my house center beam, and first floor extension out.
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post Aug 9 2011, 11:03 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 7 2011, 05:34 PM)
Discussed with the contractor already... when his indon workers were laying the slab,he was not there.  doh.gif
Well ... blush.gif what done is done.
The next one will sure to put on spacer.  nod.gif


Added on August 7, 2011, 5:54 pmRenovation Update...

The front and car porch are going through major changes

The car porch RC roof structure is up. flex.gif

user posted imageuser posted image
The front wall all destroyed bruce.gif 

user posted image
Then . . . . . . . . . . .
MAJOR ISSUE. Si Tao Po complain !!

user posted image

doh.gif  doh.gif  doh.gif  doh.gif
*
I also dislike that design.....I also feel that design too "old".....you should research more for modern looking design...


sl2007
post Aug 9 2011, 11:39 AM

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My proposal, change to monopitch roof inclined at 5 Degree should be ok...

Minimize re-design and rectification works....
weikee
post Aug 9 2011, 12:01 PM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Aug 9 2011, 11:39 AM)
My proposal, change to monopitch roof inclined at 5 Degree should be ok...

Minimize re-design and rectification works....
*
monopitch roof is more expensive right?
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post Aug 9 2011, 12:04 PM

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just flat concrete roof enough...simple and nice...
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post Aug 9 2011, 12:09 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 9 2011, 01:01 PM)
monopitch roof is more expensive right?
*
can use metal deck roof with 5deg pitch.
Nothing is cheap biggrin.gif

QUOTE(tiensong @ Aug 9 2011, 01:04 PM)
just flat concrete roof enough...simple and nice...
*
This also look nice but also more expensive. Can be an alternative provided the existing structure has been designed to cater for the addition loads.
sl2007
post Aug 9 2011, 12:10 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 9 2011, 12:01 PM)
monopitch roof is more expensive right?
*
Not really la.... Depends on the material used and how the design works....


Added on August 9, 2011, 12:11 pm
QUOTE(tiensong @ Aug 9 2011, 12:04 PM)
just flat concrete roof enough...simple and nice...
*
Ya, simple & nice provided the workmanship is acceptable... If not, disaster.... Actually Flat Roof Cost more.... smile.gif

This post has been edited by sl2007: Aug 9 2011, 12:11 PM
weikee
post Aug 9 2011, 01:33 PM

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Mine is flat concrete roof. So far look good. The bottom of the RC slab (parking porch ceiling) i did not put plaster ceiling, my contractor do plastering for me.

His worker take 3 days do it. Ceiling plastering is really hard work.
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post Aug 10 2011, 08:22 AM

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For that matter, if any our your neighbours are renovating, for sure it will be very dusty and noisy. When the workers start hacking work and drilling, this can be a nightmare.
Some inconsiderate house owners even allows their contractors to carry out these noisy work on Sundays as well. doh.gif
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post Aug 10 2011, 08:34 AM

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So far the neighbors has been quite sporty about it. biggrin.gif
The first thing I did before renovation was to introduce myself to them.
I needed their approval for MPSJ permit after all. laugh.gif
They got my phone number and will call me up when there is a problem.
Caused one of their back room to be flooded due to a bent roof water pipe (problem rectified) and they were still patient with me. sweat.gif
Of course night and Sundays are off times. nod.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 10 2011, 08:34 AM
kelvyn
post Aug 10 2011, 08:40 AM

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Not many neighbours are like you. smile.gif
Some just don't give a damn on the inconvenient they caused to others.
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post Aug 10 2011, 08:50 AM

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Renovation update.

Still RC Roof but with a new design, (with boss lady stamp of approval)
Due to the roof gutter design above the RC slab (Initially only the sides, now need to include the front also)
a slight modification will not be sturdy and proper especially for the water flow and the reverse step overhang I plan to add.
The contractor have to break the whole thing down and re-do. rclxub.gif
So with a lot of grumbling from the workers this is the result:-

car porch RC roof gone shocking.gif

user posted image


and this is what left of the "new" RC roof blink.gif

user posted image

Sigh...... sad.gif
sl2007
post Aug 10 2011, 09:07 AM

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Boss,

Why take off everything...???
TSphoenix69
post Aug 10 2011, 09:59 AM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Aug 10 2011, 09:07 AM)
Boss,

Why take off everything...???
*
Adding in a 3 side roof rather than a 2 side roof. (Boss Lady wants unobstructed view of the 1st floor windows).
The front of the RC roof needs a gutter for rain water flow with the new roof design. Old design only has side gutter, no fro"nt gutter.
The gutter are embedded in the RC . Also want to add reverse step overhang on the front of the RC.(something like a "topi)
To just demolish the front and rebuilt the front will compromise the structure and smooth water flow, thus rather demolish and rebuilt again.
Not sure if I describe this right. Upload picture of new roof when ready. blink.gif


Added on August 10, 2011, 11:19 am
QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 10 2011, 08:40 AM)
Not many neighbours are like you.  smile.gif
Some just don't give a damn on the inconvenient they caused to others.
*
Need positive vibes with our neighbors bro. thumbup.gif



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 10 2011, 11:19 AM
hhaf
post Aug 10 2011, 11:30 AM

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hi~ bro,Mind to tell me how much your current reno cost ??



This post has been edited by hhaf: Aug 10 2011, 11:31 AM
tiensong
post Aug 10 2011, 11:52 AM

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bro~mind to tell me how much the buying price of your house?
cky80
post Aug 10 2011, 03:07 PM

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love your updates bro!
please continue n dun stop...i have a place also wan to curi ur ideas tongue.gif
TSphoenix69
post Aug 10 2011, 10:44 PM

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QUOTE(hhaf @ Aug 10 2011, 11:30 AM)
hi~ bro,Mind to tell me how much your current reno cost ??
*
Err... not really compiled the figure yet. So far paid around (for reno only) RM30k.


Added on August 10, 2011, 10:46 pm
QUOTE(tiensong @ Aug 10 2011, 11:52 AM)
bro~mind to tell me how much the buying price of your house?
*
Approx RM500k. If buy last year save approx 50-80k. cry.gif


Added on August 10, 2011, 10:47 pm
QUOTE(cky80 @ Aug 10 2011, 03:07 PM)
love your updates bro!
please continue n dun stop...i have a place also wan to curi ur ideas tongue.gif
*
Curi away bro.. icon_rolleyes.gif


Added on August 10, 2011, 10:50 pm
QUOTE(doncityz @ Aug 10 2011, 07:15 PM)
Wah flooded neighbors house??? really ccb contractor u got.
*
So far OK lah. It was an unexpected development. tongue.gif
Rectified the thing immediately the next day.
He even offered to help the neighbor to clean up the mess himself. thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 10 2011, 10:59 PM
tiensong
post Aug 11 2011, 10:22 AM

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If you are looking for reliable supplier for windows, maybe I can help you...you can PM me your contact number...my friend will contact you for quotation..


TSphoenix69
post Aug 11 2011, 10:36 AM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Aug 11 2011, 10:22 AM)
If you are looking for reliable supplier for windows, maybe I can help you...you can PM me your contact number...my friend will contact you for quotation..
*
Thanks but I already engaged a window supplier as I have already moved past this stage in my renovations.nod.gif
I am looking for a good grill supplier now, any contacts?
weikee
post Aug 11 2011, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 11 2011, 10:36 AM)
Thanks but I already engaged a window supplier as I have already moved past this stage in my renovations.nod.gif
I am looking for a good grill supplier now, any contacts?
*
You want mine? price is standard lah not the cheapest. But standard.
Autogate also i just found. My wife colleague use this Autogate installer for few of this house, and her other colleague too.

This post has been edited by weikee: Aug 11 2011, 11:00 AM
Gary1981
post Aug 11 2011, 12:06 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 11 2011, 10:36 AM)
Thanks but I already engaged a window supplier as I have already moved past this stage in my renovations.nod.gif
I am looking for a good grill supplier now, any contacts?
*
I used Three Kim, you can try to call ..Ivy, 0122149382
kamion
post Aug 11 2011, 06:02 PM

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I'm also looking for grille. Have contacted Ivy of Three Kim. Awaiting her quotation. smile.gif

Are you changing your doors, phoenix69?
TSphoenix69
post Aug 11 2011, 07:01 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 11 2011, 10:58 AM)
You want mine? price is standard lah not the cheapest. But standard.
Autogate also i just found. My wife colleague use this Autogate installer for few of this house, and her other colleague too.
*
Interested in your autogate supplier, please pm me. Thanks smile.gif


Added on August 11, 2011, 7:02 pm
QUOTE(Gary1981 @ Aug 11 2011, 12:06 PM)
I used Three Kim, you can try to call ..Ivy, 0122149382
*
Thanks Gary1981. heard a lot from the forum about them. Going to call, Thanks smile.gif


Added on August 11, 2011, 7:03 pm
QUOTE(kamion @ Aug 11 2011, 06:02 PM)
I'm also looking for grille. Have contacted Ivy of Three Kim. Awaiting her quotation. smile.gif

Are you changing your doors, phoenix69?
*
Yes, changing all doors, biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 11 2011, 07:03 PM
weikee
post Aug 11 2011, 07:20 PM

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When you want to install? Cause i have not use him, If you can wait, maybe in 1 month time. Or I can give you now, you call him to compare price.
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post Aug 11 2011, 07:24 PM

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This is the plastic film that I am going to use as a vapor barrier for my car porch concrete bottom. biggrin.gif

Don't really need it but, I actually work in the plastic industry.
So thought it is appropriate that I use some of the things my company produce myself. hee hee tongue.gif

user posted image

The specification for this plastic (me waxing lyrical..)

LLDPE Metallocene Film. -
1.LLDPE is Low Linear Density Polyethylene - Virgin grade (Those avalaible in the hardware shop all using recycled resin)
2.Metallocene - A high grade of plastic resin that provides exceotional tensile strenght.

Dimension
4400mm X 120micron
1.4400mm width (!4 feet) - The widest film that I can find at the moment. (Hardware shop usually 9 feet wide)
2. Thickness 120 micron = 0.12mm (Hardware shop ranges from 80 - 200 micron)

Actually this film was produced to be used as a liquid bulk bag inner liner, I taken some to use in my house. icon_idea.gif


Added on August 11, 2011, 7:27 pm
QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 11 2011, 07:20 PM)
When you want to install? Cause i have not use him, If you can wait, maybe in 1 month time. Or I can give you now, you call him to compare price.
*
I can wait. You are ahead of me in renovation progress. You go ahead. blush.gif
I am still rethinking about the gate any many other fittings. Budgetary woes. sigh... cry.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 11 2011, 07:27 PM
kelvyn
post Aug 11 2011, 09:16 PM

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Nobody will tell you that renovation is cheap and in most instances, there will be cost overrun. cry.gif
Just exercise some constraint, don't go over board else will need to dig out the piggy banks sweat.gif
bteoh
post Aug 11 2011, 10:13 PM

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mind to tell why need to lay plaster before concrete ar? whats the purpose?

weikee
post Aug 11 2011, 10:24 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 11 2011, 07:24 PM)
I can wait. You are ahead of me in renovation progress. You go ahead. blush.gif
I am still rethinking about the gate any many other fittings. Budgetary woes. sigh... cry.gif
*
Hehe, my renovation is slow, i think is more like hotel for the indo. Yours maybe faster. biggrin.gif

Anyway he quote me 1.4k local arm + standby battery, with 1 year warranty. Wiring excluded.

In case your electric contractor don't know, ask him lay 11 cores cable before the parking slab. Better still Armored. (Mine is 11 core armored). 3 for power, 4 for auto switch, 1 (some use 2) for light so you only have 2 to 3 core spare. Each end of the gate pillar, lay 4 core armored cable, terminate to where you terminate the the 11 core.


StevenL
post Aug 11 2011, 11:24 PM

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Bro, my new house comes with 7 core cable, was told its suffice if i wanna wired to the lamp post, meaning light will ON when the gate is activated. Is this true??
weikee
post Aug 11 2011, 11:28 PM

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QUOTE(StevenL @ Aug 11 2011, 11:24 PM)
Bro, my new house comes with 7 core cable, was told its suffice if i wanna wired to the lamp post, meaning light will ON when the gate is activated. Is this true??
*
Depend your autogate use how many cores, some autogate use only 6 core, so you have one more for switching on/off inside the house. If use all 7 cores sure you don't have anymore wire for lamp post loh.



sl2007
post Aug 11 2011, 11:42 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 11 2011, 07:24 PM)
This is the plastic film that I am going to use as a vapor barrier for my car porch concrete bottom.  biggrin.gif

Don't really need it but, I actually work in the plastic industry.
So thought it is appropriate that I use some of the things my company produce myself. hee hee  tongue.gif

user posted image

The specification for this plastic (me waxing lyrical..)

LLDPE Metallocene Film. -
1.LLDPE is Low Linear Density Polyethylene - Virgin grade (Those avalaible in the hardware shop all using recycled resin)
2.Metallocene - A high grade of plastic resin that provides exceotional tensile strenght.

Dimension
4400mm X 120micron
1.4400mm width (!4 feet) - The widest film that I can find at the moment. (Hardware shop usually 9 feet wide)
2. Thickness 120 micron = 0.12mm (Hardware shop ranges from 80 - 200 micron)

Actually this film was produced to be used as a liquid bulk bag inner liner, I taken some to use in my house.  icon_idea.gif


Added on August 11, 2011, 7:27 pm

I can wait. You are ahead of me in renovation progress. You go ahead. blush.gif
I am still rethinking about the gate any many other fittings. Budgetary woes. sigh... cry.gif
*
Bro,

Why not get thicker PE Sheet. Usually for big project, people use 0.25mm 250micron... Anyhow difficult to get la... Just use 200 micron ok oredy le...
TSphoenix69
post Aug 12 2011, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 11 2011, 09:16 PM)
Nobody will tell you that renovation is cheap and in most instances, there will be cost overrun.  cry.gif
Just exercise some constraint, don't go over board else will need to dig out the piggy banks  sweat.gif
*
Piggy bank also not enough sad.gif
When think of constrain, its like getting a rolls royce but use cheapo plastic wheel rims cry.gif cry.gif


Added on August 12, 2011, 12:00 pm
QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 11 2011, 10:24 PM)
Hehe, my renovation is slow, i think is more like hotel for the indo. Yours maybe faster. biggrin.gif

Anyway he quote me 1.4k local arm + standby battery, with 1 year warranty. Wiring excluded.

In case your electric contractor don't know, ask him lay 11 cores cable before the parking slab.  Better still Armored. (Mine is 11 core armored). 3 for power, 4 for auto switch, 1 (some use 2) for light so you only have 2 to 3 core spare.  Each end of the gate pillar, lay 4 core armored cable, terminate to where you terminate the the 11 core.
*
Err, what I am getting is a 9 core armored cable. The contractor broke it down like this:-
1- Doorbell. 4- autogate. 1-light. 1 power. 2 - extra just in case.

- Why you use 3 for power? 4 armored cable at each end of the gate pillar ??? Can enlighten me..


Added on August 12, 2011, 12:24 pm
QUOTE(sl2007 @ Aug 11 2011, 11:42 PM)
Bro,

Why not get thicker PE Sheet. Usually for big project, people use 0.25mm 250micron... Anyhow difficult to get la... Just use 200 micron ok oredy le...
*
Hee hee, mine small project mahh....
Anyway, here is the properties comparison:-

Water Vapor Transmission Rate - ASTM F - 1249 cry.gif

120 micron LLDPE Film, Approx - 2.5 g/m2/day @ 37.8oC, 90% RH
250 micron LLDPE Film, Approx - 2.0 g/m2/day @ 37.8oC, 90% RH
(110% increase in film thickness - based on 120 micron thickness - provide an incremental 25% in WVTR)


Tensile strenght - A recycle grade 250 micron LLDPE film has approx. the same tensile strenght as a 120 micron LLDPE Metallocene film. flex.gif



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 12 2011, 12:24 PM
bteoh
post Aug 12 2011, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(bteoh @ Aug 11 2011, 10:13 PM)
mind to tell why need to lay plaster before concrete ar? whats the purpose?
*
i mean plastic sheet


Added on August 12, 2011, 9:40 pm
QUOTE(bteoh @ Aug 11 2011, 10:13 PM)
mind to tell why need to lay plaster before concrete ar? whats the purpose?
*
i mean plastic sheet

This post has been edited by bteoh: Aug 12 2011, 09:40 PM
sl2007
post Aug 12 2011, 09:48 PM

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to prevent moisture from the ground effect the concrete.....
TSphoenix69
post Aug 12 2011, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(bteoh @ Aug 12 2011, 09:40 PM)
i mean plastic sheet


Added on August 12, 2011, 9:40 pm
i mean plastic sheet
*
It is supposed to provide a barrier against water vapor rising from the ground wor.... blink.gif

Actually there should already be a piece below ground from the developer when they first started this housing project but as I mentioned earlier, I add this extra piece just because I can. tongue.gif
sl2007
post Aug 12 2011, 10:16 PM

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Friend, who told you that developer has inserted the Plastic Sheet?


weikee
post Aug 12 2011, 10:39 PM

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After hacking so many of the floor slab, i don't see the original developer did that in my house. Think they only raised the rebar above the soil.
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post Aug 13 2011, 08:49 AM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Aug 12 2011, 10:16 PM)
Friend, who told you that developer has inserted the Plastic Sheet?
*
I was told that by my hardware suppliers customers that buy PE sheet from me that the developers/contractors use PE sheet as part of house foundation. smile.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 13 2011, 08:50 AM
sl2007
post Aug 13 2011, 09:27 AM

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PE only used in area where concrete is poured (genuine developer).. For any earth filled area, confirmed no PE sheet is laid..


TSphoenix69
post Aug 13 2011, 10:36 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 12 2011, 10:39 PM)
After hacking so many of the floor slab, i don't see the original developer did that in my house. Think they only raised the rebar above the soil.
*
Same here . blink.gif
sl2007
post Aug 13 2011, 10:46 AM

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I have prepared more than 100 of BQ and PE sheet only applicable to Concrete Slab area... smile.gif


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post Aug 15 2011, 06:55 PM

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Renovation Update

The ground floor front wall is totally taken down, Waiting for new windows, similar to the master bedroom.
The North wind is blowing straight in liao... tongue.gif

user posted imageuser posted image


The new RC roof structure is up "again"- with the correct "longkang" cool2.gif

user posted imageuser posted image


New Doors and Window frames installation.

user posted imageuser posted image
user posted imageuser posted image


13 Amp Power Point Installation

user posted imageuser posted image


kelvyn
post Aug 15 2011, 09:33 PM

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Hi phoenix69,

A bit curious on what did you do as replacement when you removed the 2 RC columns in your living room?
Did you construct any alternative supports?
TSphoenix69
post Aug 15 2011, 09:41 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 15 2011, 09:33 PM)
Hi phoenix69,

A bit curious on what did you do as replacement when you removed the 2 RC columns in your living room?
Did you construct any alternative supports?
*
Going to construct 2 additional corner RC column at the extreme edge.
Then will join them across via a RC beam joining the single column you see in the middle.


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post Aug 15 2011, 09:51 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 15 2011, 10:41 PM)
Going to construct 2 additional corner RC column at the extreme edge.
Then will join them across via a RC beam joining the single column you see in the middle.
*
Hope you you don't mind me saying this.
I suggest that you quickly get your contractor to temporary prop up the bottom of the beams (at the 2 columns location)
Did you get any qualified person to look at the structures where you have removed the 2 columns.
Don't mean to frighten you... Better to be safe then sorry.
TSphoenix69
post Aug 16 2011, 11:52 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 15 2011, 09:51 PM)
Hope you you don't mind me saying this.
I suggest that you quickly get your contractor to temporary prop up the bottom of the beams (at the 2 columns location)
Did you get any qualified person to look at the structures where you have removed the 2 columns.
Don't mean to frighten you... Better to be safe then sorry.
*
Hmmm... thanks. hmm.gif
Will talk to the contractor later about this..... nod.gif


Added on August 16, 2011, 11:45 pmI am currently getting the place all wired up.

This leads to the questions - where do I want my light and fan to be. blink.gif

I plan to put plaster ceiling. With cove light (from L-Box) in the living room and a fan with the down lights located under the L-Box.

Worried about Strobing (fan blades causing lights to flash) and Insufficient Light source/brightness due to down light location. rclxub.gif

There is the issue of low ceiling height 9.5' and multiple zig zagging overhead beams 1" (height) X 6"(width). doh.gif

Any pointers ?? sweat.gif sweat.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Aug 16 2011, 11:45 PM
TSphoenix69
post Aug 26 2011, 10:07 PM

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Updates

Finally get my new roof up rclxms.gif

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The Back extension is nearly there...

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My Laundry area.

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My Security Doors arrived flex.gif

Front + Back (the back door is overly grand ) sweat.gif

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eclipse-space
post Aug 26 2011, 11:27 PM

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hey the see thru roof, how much does it cost you?
kelvyn
post Aug 27 2011, 10:51 AM

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There are two different types of these clear/ coloured roofing sheets. There are polycarbonate corrugated sheets and Acrylic corrugated sheets in the market. From what I know the polycarbonate ones are longer lasting against yellowing. It pays to get the better quality ones to avoid the unsightliness of yellowing after a few years due to the sun.
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post Aug 27 2011, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 27 2011, 10:51 AM)
There are two different types of these clear/ coloured roofing sheets. There are polycarbonate corrugated sheets and Acrylic corrugated sheets in the market. From what I know the polycarbonate ones are longer lasting against yellowing. It pays to get the better quality ones to avoid the unsightliness of yellowing after a few years due to the sun.
*
not opting for a layer of tempered glass ?
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post Aug 27 2011, 02:07 PM

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QUOTE(JinXXX @ Aug 27 2011, 12:57 PM)
not opting for a layer of tempered glass ?
*
tempered glass is a good option if cost is not an issue tongue.gif
weikee
post Aug 27 2011, 02:30 PM

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For glass, it need special opening.
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post Aug 27 2011, 03:02 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Aug 27 2011, 02:30 PM)
For glass, it need special opening.
*
"opening ? you mean bracket ? or what can just lay the glass on the roofing beams what since the glass is the last item on roof decking
weikee
post Aug 27 2011, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(JinXXX @ Aug 27 2011, 03:02 PM)
"opening ? you mean bracket ? or what can just lay the glass on the roofing beams what since the glass is the last item on roof decking
*
Yes bracket, you cannot put glass just like putting roof, All glass will expand and contract, and need special bracket and silicon to hold.
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post Aug 27 2011, 04:21 PM

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QUOTE(eclipse-space @ Aug 26 2011, 11:27 PM)
hey the see thru roof, how much does it cost you?
*
My contractor says it is termed as transparent zinc (cheapo item) made of a type of plastic (dunno what)
Price per piece 1' X 8' = RM 60-70/pc. smile.gif
Jo_da48
post Aug 29 2011, 12:03 AM

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Is your design still follow the Approvel diagram by MP?

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post Aug 29 2011, 09:36 AM

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wow..thats really some grand looking doors for your back door. No grills??
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post Aug 29 2011, 09:42 AM

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QUOTE(Jo_da48 @ Aug 29 2011, 12:03 AM)
Is your design still follow the Approvel diagram by MP?
*
Yup. Follow up to at least 90% so far .
In fact the re-done car porch roof is the original design in the layout drawing. biggrin.gif
The initial design that was taken down was a blooper tongue.gif


Added on September 5, 2011, 9:25 amNeed to make another big decision this week.
Its time to finalize on the autogate.
My contractor is chasing me as he need to build the front gate wall.

Going for folding type autogate.

There is 2 type or arm (I am going for the folding gate with tracks type).
1. The one with thick arm
2. The one with thin flat bars that goes underneath the gate.

Which one to choose?



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Sep 14 2011, 08:44 PM
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post Sep 14 2011, 08:45 PM

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Renovation Update..

My Front Car Porch Totally demolished .
Waiting for Auto gate Hinge and I am delaying cause still negotiating with Gate Suppliers.. tongue.gif

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My new spare 250 Liter PE Water Storage Tank

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zheilwane
post Sep 14 2011, 09:31 PM

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yo phoenix, your contractor came to collect the Hansgrohe mixer and Grundfos water pump d. Cant wait to c your post after installing everything ekke.
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post Sep 14 2011, 09:33 PM

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Wow. Your porch looks really spacious smile.gif
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post Sep 14 2011, 09:58 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Sep 14 2011, 09:33 PM)
Wow. Your porch looks really spacious  smile.gif
*
Ha Ha Ha laugh.gif

Camera Angle Only Lah.... tongue.gif



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Sep 14 2011, 10:04 PM
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post Sep 14 2011, 10:04 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Sep 14 2011, 09:31 PM)
yo phoenix, your contractor came to collect the Hansgrohe mixer and Grundfos water pump d. Cant wait to c your post after installing everything ekke.
*
Ok Ok. Sure to share here. icon_rolleyes.gif

All the my Toilet barang from

Builders Hardware Enterprise,
46, Jalan 2, Kepong Baru, 52100 Kepong
Kepong, Malaysia .
Phone Number: 03-62572412


(free promo for zheilwane) . thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Sep 14 2011, 10:38 PM
kochin
post Sep 15 2011, 12:01 PM

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hate to be a party pooper but may i ask cost spent to date?
adrianjc
post Sep 15 2011, 04:37 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 15 2011, 09:41 PM)
Going to construct 2 additional corner RC column at the extreme edge.
Then will join them across via a RC beam joining the single column you see in the middle.
*
The term for this is called a load transfer, 2 pillars are built at opposing ends of the house's width together with a ceiling beam to support existing ceiling beam. This usually causes the ceiling clearance to be reduced by about 6" or so. Needs specifications from an engineer to get this done as you don't want your contractor to cut on cost for the metal bars used.

And i agree with kelvyn, get your contractor to prop up the area that the old pillars have been removed with scaffolding. Better to be safe than sorry.


Added on September 15, 2011, 5:08 pm
QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 16 2011, 11:52 AM)
Hmmm... thanks.  hmm.gif
Will talk to the contractor later about this.....  nod.gif


Added on August 16, 2011, 11:45 pmI am currently getting the place all wired up.

This leads to the questions - where do I want my light and fan to be.  blink.gif

I plan to put plaster ceiling. With cove light (from L-Box) in the living room and a fan with the down lights located under the L-Box.

Worried about Strobing (fan blades causing lights to flash) and Insufficient Light source/brightness due to down light location.  rclxub.gif

There is the issue of low ceiling height 9.5' and  multiple zig zagging overhead beams 1" (height) X 6"(width). doh.gif

Any pointers ??  sweat.gif  sweat.gif
*
Usually if you plan to do a L-box around your living room, the middle portion of the living room area you can reuse the original ceiling height. That would give your fan clearance and doesn't really give the strobing effect.

The L-box will lower your ceiling about 8 inches from your ceiling height unless you're taking from below your ceiling beams, in that case it would be even lower and not really good. Ideally you should have at least 10 feet clearance off the ground but if there is constraint make sure its nothing less than 8 feet.

This post has been edited by adrianjc: Sep 15 2011, 05:08 PM
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post Sep 15 2011, 08:05 PM

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QUOTE(kochin @ Sep 15 2011, 12:01 PM)
hate to be a party pooper but may i ask cost spent to date?
*
Permit application, Hacking, wetworks, structure extension, additional features, roof re-do, piping, roof repairs, concrete table top base - Only these the cost has balooned up to approx 85k. cry.gif

Still has, (things that stick to the structure), not yet included sweat.gif

Electrical Wiring,
Windows.
Grille, Pergola. Gate
Sanitary ware
Tiles
Laminated Flooring
Plaster Ceiling
Doors
Painting
etc etc etc .... rclxub.gif
TSphoenix69
post Sep 15 2011, 08:08 PM

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QUOTE(adrianjc @ Sep 15 2011, 04:37 PM)
The term for this is called a load transfer, 2 pillars are built at opposing ends of the house's width together with a ceiling beam to support existing ceiling beam. This usually causes the ceiling clearance to be reduced by about 6" or so. Needs specifications from an engineer to get this done as you don't want your contractor to cut on cost for the metal bars used.

And i agree with kelvyn, get your contractor to prop up the area that the old pillars have been removed with scaffolding. Better to be safe than sorry.


Added on September 15, 2011, 5:08 pm

Usually if you plan to do a L-box around your living room, the middle portion of the living room area you can reuse the original ceiling height. That would give your fan clearance and doesn't really give the strobing effect.

The L-box will lower your ceiling about 8 inches from your ceiling height unless you're taking from below your ceiling beams, in that case it would be even lower and not really good. Ideally you should have at least 10 feet clearance off the ground but if there is constraint make sure its nothing less than 8 feet.
*
The 2 pillar addition, - completed. biggrin.gif

I will still go for plaster ceiling at places that has no down-lights installation at the cost of lessening the ceiling heights because the original ceiling are uneven and wavy. doh.gif
The cost of levelling skimming for such a small ceiling area is relatively high compared to plaster ceiling.
200sq feet only. wink.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Sep 15 2011, 08:10 PM
TSphoenix69
post Sep 29 2011, 11:14 AM

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Downlights and other Lightings


I am now in the midst of arranging for Plaster Ceiling, Downlights and Lightings are matters that I have to attend to together.
Dropped by Top Ten Lighting S/B and met up with Kim Seng.
This is what I learned.

Downlights
Has 2 parts
-Bulb
-Casing
-Ballast (only applicable for Clip Lock Bulbs)

Bulbs (Energy savings)

There is 2 types of bulbs (energy savings type)
1. Clip Lock
-Cheaper
-Last longer 3-4 years
-need to use together with ballast
-China origin -approx RM6, Hungry origin -approx RM13

2. Screw in type
-Pricier
-shorter lifespan 6 months-2 years
-no need ballast (internal built in)
-China origin - approx RM8

LED Bulbs

Usually screw in type-no need external ballast
Clip lock type is rare and if used replace existing energy bulb need to remove existing external ballast.

Casing
Has 2 main part
-Cage/Case (The body)
-holder (the bulb holding)

There is 2 types of casing
1. Vertical Bulb
-Round type (Usually 4"-6" diameter)
-Taller , approx 8" thus need more space above inside the plaster ceiling (Suitable for high ceiling)
-1 bulb per case
-brighter overall due to design
-Approx RM 13

2. Horizontal Bulb
-Square and round type
-shorter (squatter), approx 5" thus needing less space above inside plaster ceiling.
-2 bulb per case
-comparatively less brighter (less reflective area due to design)
-Approx RM 24

Holder-Located on top of Vertical bulb casing
-Located on the side of Horizontal bulb casing
-2 type to suit 2 types of bulb (clip lock and screw in)
-can be dismantled from the casing and interchanged with its alternative type.

Ballast
-Only applicable foe Energy savings Clip Lock bulb (Screw in bulb and LED bulb no need).
-Can be attached to the casing or left beside the casing, on top of the plaster ceiling.

Usually a shop will sell downlights as a set, ( bulb, casing and ballast-if applicable )
The standard bulb is usually either Osram of GE, both from China
The ballast (if applicable) is also from China.
You have the option to change the bulb to GE from Hungry (better quality), additional RM 6
You have also the oprtion to change the ballast (if applicable) to another better quality type, additional RM 6

Note, Screw in type (without external ballast) are considered the more modern/newer design because of its easy replacing method,
but clip in type with external ballast are generally more durable.
(they commented that for projects, contractor will want to choose clip in type with external ballast as it is more durable)


Flourecent Tube (for cove lighting)
2 main type
-T8
-T5

T8
-bigger diameter
-Cheaper
-2 main size - 2' and 4'
-use ballast and starter
-when start flicker

T5
-smaller diameter
-pricier
-4 main size - 1',2',3' and 4'
-use e-ballast
-no flicker when start



Lighting (tracks and small spotlight design)
The tracks comes in various length . eg. 3', 6'
ajustable mini Spotlight are attached to these tracks and can be moved along.
2 types of mini spotlight, halogen and LED.
-Halogen RM 25 - 39, shorter lifespan 20000hours
-LED RM 39 - 49, longer lifespan 80000hours
Note, that may be the lifespan given but generally actual usage 6 months to 1 year.


I have shared all that I have learned here icon_rolleyes.gif
weikee
post Sep 29 2011, 11:47 AM

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All ballast i use are made in Malaysia, from North, think is Kedah. Don't get from China unless is good brand like GE / Osram (usually cost more than Malaysia made). The China unbrand usually make noise after few hundred hours of usage.

Top Ten lighting price are cheap, but i find most of the downlight quality are shoby quality. You ask them change to better ballast when you get light with ballast.

T5 have 5', but only have one selection of light 820. This mean only yellow for 5'. Other length you can get 830, and 865 daylight, and also white light.

You may want to try Wong Lighting at Pasar road, they bring in few model i can't find in some other light shop i went. And the downlight quality is much better, thicker metal casing and much solid build. Of course price are much more expensive. Range about RM 4+per downlight.

I brought all my downlight, T5 from Wong lighting. Got myself 36 downlight, and 16 x 4' T5, 4 x 2' T5, and 2 x 1' T5. All bulb are Osram, and T5 casing are Osram except for 1' casing.
kamion
post Sep 29 2011, 01:07 PM

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I bought my vertical 6" vertical downlights from this place in Puchong.....

http://egowa.wordpress.com/contact-us/

RM13 inc of bulb (screw-in bulb with internal ballast). The quality is cheap. laugh.gif But, it serves their purpose.

I needed some horizontal downlights, but they couldn't get stock so I bought some from a store in SS2. More expensive, about RM34 inc bulb, but better quality fitting.

I need 3 more T5 x 4' for my kitchen cabinet lighting. Might go back to Egowa.

TSphoenix69
post Sep 30 2011, 10:53 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Sep 29 2011, 11:47 AM)
All ballast i use are made in Malaysia, from North, think is Kedah. Don't get from China unless is good brand like GE / Osram (usually cost more than Malaysia made). The China unbrand usually make noise after few hundred hours of usage.

Top Ten lighting price are cheap, but i find most of the downlight quality are shoby quality. You ask them change to better ballast when you get light with ballast.

T5 have 5', but only have one selection of light 820. This mean only yellow for 5'. Other length you can get 830, and 865 daylight, and also white light.

You may want to try Wong Lighting at Pasar road, they bring in few model i can't find in some other light shop i went. And the downlight quality is much better, thicker metal casing and much solid build. Of course price are much more expensive. Range about RM 4+per downlight.

I brought all my downlight, T5 from Wong lighting. Got myself 36 downlight, and 16 x 4' T5, 4 x 2' T5, and 2 x 1' T5. All bulb are Osram, and T5 casing are Osram except for 1' casing.
*
I was around Pasar Road today and decided to drop by Wong Lighting (M) S/B. since weikee mentioned this place. tongue.gif

Was attended by a nice saleslady, Susan
Told her that I was looking for downlight and my ceiling height was around 8.5' after plaster ceiling.
She recommended me to utilize 4" diameter downlight as my ceiling height is low. (higher ceiling can use 6" diameter and above)

Here is what I learned.
Clip on energy savings bulb has 10 , 13 , 18 , and 26 watt.
Screw on energy bulb has 8 , 11 , 14 , 20 , and 23 watt.

The higher the watt the brighter it is.
The higher the wattage of the bulb, the longer (size) the bulb is.
Thus some small downlight casing can not fit hugher wattage bulb due to size limitation.

The advantage of screw on bulb is that, you can change the bulb type (wattage), without changing the ballast (since screw on bulb, no external ballast)

A 18 watt vertical bulb can provide 100 level light.
A 10 watt horizontal bulb can provide only 50 level light
(not sure about this, just what I was told)

They sell distribute Hitachi bulbs, sell osram and philip bulb, they do not sell GE bulb.

The better external ballast they have is from Malaysia-Solex

Was quoted
4" Vertical Round Downlight - Solex, 18 watt bulb (clip on) RM23.00

4" Horizontal Round Downlight - Solex, 13 watt bulb (Clip on) , (Cant fit bigger bulb, 1 piece only - max 2 pc per downlight) RM29.00

1" Downlight casing - RM 22, together with LED bulb + driver - RM 55.

Track type with movable spotlight , 3' track - RM18, 6' - RM36. 1 pc spotlight RM32.


The above is what I remember, it is a bit rojak rclxub.gif but I hope this helps blush.gif


weikee
post Sep 30 2011, 11:01 PM

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You did not check out the brand "eluminuz"? Think is their own brand and quality much better than most downlight.
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post Sep 30 2011, 11:07 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Sep 30 2011, 11:01 PM)
You did not check out the brand "eluminuz"? Think is their own brand and quality much better than most downlight.
*
The Sales Lady did not intro to me lah. doh.gif
Maybe she thought my face not "Ong" enough. tongue.gif
ozak
post Sep 30 2011, 11:29 PM

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They have Hitachi energy saving bulb? I m looking for this bulb. Quite difficult to find.
weikee
post Sep 30 2011, 11:34 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Sep 30 2011, 11:07 PM)
The Sales Lady did not intro to me lah.  doh.gif
Maybe she thought my face not "Ong" enough.  tongue.gif
*
Check it out, try the PJ branch too. They have one in Seapark / Paramount.
yyt1
post Oct 3 2011, 10:48 PM

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QUOTE(Serofax @ Jul 15 2011, 01:40 AM)
i did mine...standard DSL, extend backyard only, total RM1500 (architect)+RM850(MPSJ) = RM2350 (incl bin deposit)
*
Hi Serofax

Could you kindly recommend the architect? The amount is quite reasonable to me. I wanted to extend my kitchen too.

Thanks
Jo_da48
post Oct 3 2011, 10:56 PM

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why not change to stainless Storage Tank?
TSphoenix69
post Oct 3 2011, 11:37 PM

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QUOTE(Jo_da48 @ Oct 3 2011, 10:56 PM)
why not change to stainless Storage Tank?
*
1. Price tongue.gif
2. Have to make a concrete base for the stainless steel water tank on the roof. doh.gif
3. Do not see the advantage (stainless steel will also eventually rust). shakehead.gif



yyt1
post Oct 4 2011, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Oct 3 2011, 11:37 PM)
1. Price  tongue.gif
2. Have to make a concrete base for the stainless steel water tank on the roof.  doh.gif
3. Do not see the advantage (stainless steel will also eventually rust).  shakehead.gif
*
Phoenix,

Could you recommend your architect to me ? From your feedback, I think the rate are quite reasonable.

Thanks
TSphoenix69
post Oct 9 2011, 12:27 AM

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Tiles Hunting

Have been to many tiles shop looking for tiles.
With so many varieties and design, it can seem mind boggling.

Initially just browsing to get some ideas.
Later when I determine what I want, browse again.

Below are some of my experience.

How to Choose hmm.gif

1. Start by getting a clear picture in your mind, what "size" the tiles you want on each surface.
e.g. "1x2" or "2x2" or others.
-With this in mind you will have a much easier time zeroing/focusing on what tile you want.

2. Tile "surface type/feel" and "colours" will be the next thing you got to determine.
-With size, surface and colours determined, you will notice that ther choices narrow down dramatically.

3. The next stage will be choosing and buying the tiles.


Specification icon_rolleyes.gif

There is many terms and some are mixed upuntil the salesperson also have trouble explaining.
This is what I understand
Ceramic Tiles - Standard Tiles Type
Porcelain Tiles - Porcelain type ceramic, stronger usual ceramic. Suitable for heavy duty area (e.g.floors)
Glazed - a shiny layer on the surface of the tiles to give the glossy and/or smooth feel
Polished - The tiles are polished to achive the smooth glossy feel rather than glazed
Matte - Non shiny glossy surface. Might or might not be glazed
Rough - Rough lor..
Homogeneous - The material is same from top to bottom It can be rough, matte or polished but not glazed as glazed layer is a different material. It is all porcelain tiles
Full Body - The top surface coloured layer is the same all the way through
Half Body - The top layer is only half the way through the tile body.

The confusion comes in when Homogeneous, Full body and Half body is defined. rclxub.gif



Brands cool2.gif

Below are my Impression of the tile brand based on their showroom that I have been to.
The impression is affected by
-Showroom deco
-Sales personnel

Guocera Marketing Sdn. Bhd.
Kompleks Kemajuan, Petaling Jaya
- Nice, Big, Classy Showroom as it is their main HQ
- Staff is a bit cold (maybe because I do not look "loaded" enough)
- Giving a very high end impression
- The shop is a mainly showcase for goucera, not much discount.

White Horse Ceramic World (Malaysia’s largest tile showroom)
Bandar Baru Selayang
- Huge Showroom
- Staff is ok but a bit non chalant
- Has various booth with diffrent tile combination to give you an ideas.
- It has a distinctively middle class feel.
- A showcase for White Horse but not agressive in selling

Niro Ceramic
Bandar Puteri Puchong, Puchong
Jalan Penchala, Petaling Jaya
-Very classy showroom
-Depends on the staff, if you are lucky, you will encounter entusiastic service, if not lucky, you will feellike in switzerland --- cold shouldered.
-Gives impression of solid swiss european standard
-The staff wanna sell but feellike that they are limited by company policy regarding discount

Feruni Ceramiche Sdn Bhd
Jalan 213, Petaling Jaya
- High Class showroom.
- Nice helpful staff
- Makes you change your perception about China Tile.
- They wanna sell. very professional

Kimgres Marketing Sdn Bhd
Jalan 217, Petaling Jaya
- OK Showroom
- Staff non chalant
- Feel like that they are not interested in residential customers but more on projects/bulk sales

Malaysian Mosaics Berhad
Jalan 205, Petaling Jaya
- Old rundown showroom
- OK staff but they seem unenthusiastic
- Makes you think that their tiles are old.

Tile Shops blush.gif

To get the best possible combination you will need to go to those tile shop that sells various brands.
Below are the impression I get from the tile shop I have been to.(these are shops mentioned in some of the forum topic)

Sing Mee Co
Jalan Penchala, Petaling Jaya
- Rundown showroom
- OK staff but can't seems to get competitive prices there.
- Lots of choices but all jumbled up together.
- Feels old.

Super Ceramic
Tmn Perindustrian Kinrara, Puchong
Jalan 222, Petaling Jaya
- Many brands including some china tiles
- Got stock - cheap, no stock - standard price
- Many aunties staff, Ok lah
- Limited models
- Definately feels cheap

Ipmuda Buildermart
Jalan 13/2, Petaling Jaya
- Classy factory like showroom.
- Got many brands but mainly of Niro Ceramic tiles with good prices and lots of special offer models.
- Got stock - good price, no stock - standard price

Buimaco Sdn. Bhd.
USJ 21, UEP Subang Jaya
- Nice showroom
- Helpful staff
- Good layout, easy to choose
- Sells Guocera(distributor), Feruni(distributor), Niro (distributor), MML, White Horse. Mainly branded items.
- Good offers on many models especially the brand they distribute and some special offerd tile models.
- Feels complete.

1 Stop
Jalan Kepong
- Clean cramped showroom
- Very "Chap Pa Lang"
- OK service
- Definitely do not feel expensive
- Feels that the choices are limited

Been other tile shop around puchong and kepong and generally the rule seems to be
"I got stock, I sell cheap, wanna clear stock
I got no stock, not so cheap lor, got to order"


OK... Now gotta decide where and what to buy tongue.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Oct 9 2011, 12:56 AM
asciii
post Oct 11 2011, 11:40 AM

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a quick question: have you looked into marble flooring?
TSphoenix69
post Oct 11 2011, 12:22 PM

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QUOTE(asciii @ Oct 11 2011, 11:40 AM)
a quick question: have you looked into marble flooring?
*

Yes. nod.gif
Actually dropped by Ipoh marble factory. Very pricey lah. sweat.gif
Colours are not uniform (natural),
It gets thicker as the pieces get bigger (to support the piece).
You need to get a marble tiling specialist to install the tiles.
They also have nice stone pieces for wall or flooring purposes.
Very nice but the price rclxub.gif
asciii
post Oct 11 2011, 01:14 PM

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just to check..which architect did you use?
scouser7
post Oct 11 2011, 06:00 PM

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Seeking advise from sifu's here.

Is the correct renovation sequence... Lay tiles first followed by plaster ceiling, painting, install door and windows?

Thanks in advance
TSphoenix69
post Oct 11 2011, 07:30 PM

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QUOTE(asciii @ Oct 11 2011, 01:14 PM)
just to check..which architect did you use?
*
No architect. Just me. tongue.gif
The guy I pm-ed you drawn out the architect layout for me. nod.gif


Added on October 11, 2011, 7:31 pm
QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 11 2011, 06:00 PM)
Seeking advise from sifu's here.

Is the correct renovation sequence... Lay tiles first followed by plaster ceiling, painting, install door and windows?

Thanks in advance
*
I am no sifu but I think you have a good sequence there. nod.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Oct 11 2011, 07:31 PM
kelvyn
post Oct 12 2011, 08:13 AM

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If you are laying the floor tiles, then best if this is done after the plaster ceiling works. Else, the floor tiles can get damage & dirty.
For the wall tiles that are installed till the ceiling level, then would be good to get the wall tiling done before the plaster ceiling. However, if the timing of the 2 different trades cannot match, having the ceiling done before the wall tiles is also OK, provided the ceiling level is predetermined to suit the wall tiles, etc.
kamion
post Oct 12 2011, 10:37 AM

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Yes, as Kelyvn said, wall tiles first then plaster ceiling. It's much neater.

Doors can only be installed once the flooring is done (or at least the flooring level is determined).


weikee
post Oct 12 2011, 10:44 AM

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Piping and Wiring -> Plaster -> Wall tiles -> Plaster ceiling -> Floor water proofing -> Floor tiles
TSphoenix69
post Oct 12 2011, 10:24 PM

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Renovation update:-

Car Porch Entrance Front Gate column build-up

user posted image


My future mail-box and its future housing

user posted imageuser posted image


Car Porch Main Gate

user posted image


My Big A&& windows

user posted image
ssshk
post Oct 13 2011, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Oct 12 2011, 10:24 PM)
Renovation update:-

Car Porch Entrance Front Gate column build-up

user posted image
My future mail-box and its future housing

user posted imageuser posted image
Car Porch Main Gate

user posted image
My Big A&& windows

user posted image
*
hi, jst opinion, this area here, not planning to brick it up? i think i will b nice..


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
kelvyn
post Oct 13 2011, 10:41 AM

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QUOTE(ssshk @ Oct 13 2011, 11:33 AM)
hi, jst opinion, this area here, not planning to brick it up? i think i will b nice..
*
It is against the MPSJ's regulation to brick them up.
Anyway, it will block off ventilation as well
ssshk
post Oct 13 2011, 01:28 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Oct 13 2011, 10:41 AM)
It is against the MPSJ's regulation to brick them up.
Anyway, it will block off ventilation as well
*
oh, is it? cos in sarawak here, most of the new house now, the developer will cover that up with bricks.. more privasy lo.
weikee
post Oct 13 2011, 01:57 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Oct 13 2011, 10:41 AM)
It is against the MPSJ's regulation to brick them up.
Anyway, it will block off ventilation as well
*
Is it, for entire stretch or can brick up like 5 feet?
kamion
post Oct 13 2011, 03:39 PM

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Those two metal posts... are they to support the gate in the future?


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post Oct 13 2011, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(kamion @ Oct 13 2011, 03:39 PM)
Those two metal posts... are they to support the gate in the future?
*
Yup. My contractor insisted that I choose the gate supplier to get these 2 metal post before building the columm. blush.gif
He says regular gate hinge that is supplied by hardware shop is just not strong enough for the type of gate I want.
kamion
post Oct 13 2011, 05:34 PM

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So good of your contractor to advise you. Mine just reused the old hinge......... I hope my gate don't start to sag after a while as I have lengthened each side by 2 feet.
tiensong
post Oct 13 2011, 05:36 PM

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your house is in G&G area?

weikee
post Oct 13 2011, 06:57 PM

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QUOTE(kamion @ Oct 13 2011, 05:34 PM)
So good of your contractor to advise you. Mine just reused the old hinge......... I hope my gate don't start to sag after a while as I have lengthened each side by 2 feet.
*
The contract maybe using a thicker and longer hinge that look like the old hinge. Mine replace with a 1' length install in the left and right pillar.
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post Oct 13 2011, 11:56 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Oct 13 2011, 05:36 PM)
your house is in G&G area?
*
Just started guard+gate last month. flex.gif
Going to be fenced soon, I think (saw the building material on the roadside)

tiensong
post Oct 14 2011, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Oct 13 2011, 11:56 PM)
Just started guard+gate last month.  flex.gif
Going to be fenced soon, I think (saw the building material on the roadside)
*
It's good...because I saw your house door and gate also don't have....

The thief broke into my house around 6-8 times during my renovation period...they stole the steel metal or any other things that can be sold...even my wire also been cut once...nightmare gone...plan to move in during school holiday.....hopefully...




kamion
post Oct 14 2011, 10:34 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 13 2011, 06:57 PM)
The contract maybe using a thicker and longer hinge that look like the old hinge. Mine replace with a 1' length install in the left and right pillar.
*
I don't know what it looks like. I think the contractor just re-used the old hinge that was there. I only moved one pillar, the other pillar still the same pillar as before.

QUOTE(tiensong @ Oct 14 2011, 10:11 AM)
It's good...because I saw your house door and gate also don't have....

The thief broke into my house around 6-8 times during my renovation period...they stole the steel metal or any other things that can be sold...even my wire also been cut once...nightmare gone...plan to move in during school holiday.....hopefully...
*
Yikes! mad.gif Really nightmare! sad.gif Thank God nothing was stolen from my place, even though had no door or windows for quite a long time. Finally I have a front door now.
ssshk
post Oct 14 2011, 10:41 AM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Oct 14 2011, 10:11 AM)
It's good...because I saw your house door and gate also don't have....

The thief broke into my house around 6-8 times during my renovation period...they stole the steel metal or any other things that can be sold...even my wire also been cut once...nightmare gone...plan to move in during school holiday.....hopefully...
*
sorry to hear that. mst have cost u a lot of money to buy back the materials.
tiensong
post Oct 14 2011, 11:12 AM

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QUOTE(ssshk @ Oct 14 2011, 10:41 AM)
sorry to hear that. mst have cost u a lot of money to buy back the materials.
*
Not my things..all things stolen are contractor materials or working tools...

But during the period, I feel worried all the time...even during holidays, I also will always thinking about my house...
ozak
post Oct 14 2011, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Oct 14 2011, 11:12 AM)
Not my things..all things stolen are contractor materials or working tools...

But during the period, I feel worried all the time...even during holidays, I also will always thinking about my house...
*
New taman, new house? Why the developer no hire security guard?
tiensong
post Oct 14 2011, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Oct 14 2011, 11:59 AM)
New taman, new house? Why the developer no hire security guard?
*
OLD taman and old house...

not everybody manage to buy new house at new taman...

I am a poor guy....


ozak
post Oct 14 2011, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Oct 14 2011, 12:07 PM)
OLD taman and old house...

not everybody manage to buy new house at new taman...

I am a poor guy....
*
Most of this case happen in new taman. Which still not much ppl stay and easy target.
scouser7
post Oct 14 2011, 12:17 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 12 2011, 10:44 AM)
Piping and Wiring -> Plaster -> Wall tiles -> Plaster ceiling -> Floor water proofing -> Floor tiles
*
Great advise. Thank all you for ya input rclxms.gif notworthy.gif
tiensong
post Oct 14 2011, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Oct 14 2011, 12:12 PM)
Most of this case happen in new taman. Which still not much ppl stay and easy target.
*
Initially I also think that...but after several break into my house, i believe small thief like to target renovating house to steal the materials to sell....


coconutzz
post Oct 18 2011, 08:33 AM

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Bro are u replacing the parquets in the rooms?
TSphoenix69
post Oct 18 2011, 10:27 AM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Oct 18 2011, 08:33 AM)
Bro are u replacing the parquets in the rooms?
*
Yup plan to use laminated floorboards. Cheap tongue.gif
coconutzz
post Oct 18 2011, 10:41 PM

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R cheap boards cheaper than tiles?
TSphoenix69
post Oct 19 2011, 08:56 AM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Oct 18 2011, 10:41 PM)
R cheap boards cheaper than tiles?
*
Generally Around the same.
Of course it depends on the grade tiles vs the grade of laminated floorboards.
So far laminated flooring can cost from RM3.50/sq feet (boards only) to RM10/sq feet.
Tiles can cost from RM4.00/sq feet to RM10.00/sq feet

Installation cost is another matter wink.gif
Not actually gotten quotation yet but I think tiles installation are pricier.


weikee
post Oct 19 2011, 11:07 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Oct 19 2011, 08:56 AM)
Generally Around the same.
Of course it depends on the grade tiles vs the grade of laminated floorboards.
So far laminated flooring can cost from RM3.50/sq feet (boards only) to RM10/sq feet.
Tiles can cost from RM4.00/sq feet to RM10.00/sq feet

Installation cost is another matter wink.gif
Not actually gotten quotation yet but I think tiles installation are pricier.
*
You need to add in floor leveling. Laminated required good flat base.
scouser7
post Oct 26 2011, 10:12 PM

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Could any sifu's please here tell me if the quote i got below is reasonable, cheap, or parang? hmm.gif

1. Floor & Porch Tiling using 2ft X 2ft tiles 2728sq ft X RM7.50 psf RM 21,800.00
or, RM4.50 just for materials + labour n without tiles
2. Toilet Tiling 12” X 12” tiles X 2 toilet RM 2,400.00
3. Kitchen top & Wall Tiling 12” X 12” tiles RM 2,000.00
4. Plaster Ceiling for entire house 2728 sq ft @ RM3.50 psf
(Not including corniche) RM 9,500.00

5. Drains along house (about 80 feet) RM 1,500.00
7. Painting entire house RM 3,500.00

Thanks in advance.


eclipse-space
post Oct 26 2011, 10:28 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 26 2011, 10:12 PM)
Could any sifu's please here tell me if the quote i got below is reasonable, cheap, or parang?  hmm.gif

1. Floor & Porch  Tiling using 2ft X 2ft tiles 2728sq ft X RM7.50 psf  RM 21,800.00
        or, RM4.50 just for materials + labour n without tiles
2. Toilet Tiling 12” X 12” tiles X 2 toilet                    RM  2,400.00
3. Kitchen top & Wall Tiling 12” X 12” tiles      RM  2,000.00
4. Plaster Ceiling for entire house 2728 sq ft @ RM3.50 psf
(Not including corniche)                                    RM  9,500.00

5. Drains along house (about 80 feet)      RM  1,500.00
7. Painting entire house                              RM  3,500.00

Thanks in advance.
*
should insist on FIXED pricing ie rm4.50 psf for tiling.

watch out for hacking prices as well.

painting - does it include plastering and/or skim coating?


otherwise reasonable
scouser7
post Oct 26 2011, 11:03 PM

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QUOTE(eclipse-space @ Oct 26 2011, 10:28 PM)
should insist on FIXED pricing ie rm4.50 psf for tiling.

watch out for hacking prices as well.

painting - does it include plastering and/or skim coating?
otherwise reasonable
*
Thanks for ya reply.

When you said FIXED pricing, do you mean RM4.50 for whole house tiling work but i buy the tiles?
Did not discuss hacking price with contractor but will ask him. Anyway, the tilers are chinese.
Pint works includes removing old paint, small touch ups and skim coating as well.

weikee
post Oct 27 2011, 12:18 AM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 26 2011, 10:12 PM)
Could any sifu's please here tell me if the quote i got below is reasonable, cheap, or parang?  hmm.gif

1. Floor & Porch  Tiling using 2ft X 2ft tiles 2728sq ft X RM7.50 psf  RM 21,800.00
        or, RM4.50 just for materials + labour n without tiles
2. Toilet Tiling 12” X 12” tiles X 2 toilet                    RM  2,400.00
3. Kitchen top & Wall Tiling 12” X 12” tiles      RM  2,000.00
4. Plaster Ceiling for entire house 2728 sq ft @ RM3.50 psf
(Not including corniche)                                    RM  9,500.00

5. Drains along house (about 80 feet)      RM  1,500.00
7. Painting entire house                              RM  3,500.00

Thanks in advance.
*
Plaster ceiling price is on the high side.

peterbrutus
post Oct 27 2011, 01:05 AM

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Hi, mind if I ask what kind of windows are u using? Is it normal casement and which brand? Normal glass or tempered glass? Tinted?

Do you plan to put grille?
scouser7
post Oct 27 2011, 10:54 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 27 2011, 12:18 AM)
Plaster ceiling price is on the high side.
*
Thanks for ya reply.
Thats what I thoght about the plaster ceiling as well. But contractor said that its more expensive coz need longer metal support since my ceiling and roof is a big distance. Are you able to recommend a plaster ceiling guy? What should the rate be?

Thanks in advance.
TSphoenix69
post Oct 27 2011, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(peterbrutus @ Oct 27 2011, 01:05 AM)
Hi, mind if I ask what kind of windows are u using? Is it normal casement and which brand? Normal glass or tempered glass? Tinted?

Do you plan to put grille?
*
Normal casement windows. No brand lah.. Normal green glass.. no tinting. tongue.gif
Just that I insisted on 1.2mm thick aluminum.
The branded ones usually give 1.3mm and above.
Grille. Yup... with Angle bars .


Added on October 27, 2011, 12:16 pm
QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 27 2011, 10:54 AM)
Thanks for ya reply.
Thats what I thoght about the plaster ceiling as well. But contractor said that its more expensive coz need longer metal support since my ceiling and roof is a big distance. Are you able to recommend a plaster ceiling guy? What should the rate be?

Thanks in advance.
*
Care to explain about this metal support thing??

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Oct 27 2011, 12:18 PM
scouser7
post Oct 27 2011, 12:42 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Oct 27 2011, 12:15 PM)
Normal casement windows. No brand lah.. Normal green glass.. no tinting.  tongue.gif
Just that I insisted on 1.2mm thick aluminum.
The branded ones usually give 1.3mm and above.
Grille. Yup... with Angle bars .


Added on October 27, 2011, 12:16 pm
Care to explain about this metal support thing??
*
Sorry, i dont know the correct term for this. But its the metal that is hanging down from roof strusses to plaaster ceiling. Not sre if its steel or aluminum blush.gif
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post Oct 27 2011, 12:55 PM

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Now this is something new.
Never come across this before. blink.gif
weikee
post Oct 27 2011, 12:57 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 27 2011, 12:42 PM)
Sorry, i  dont know the correct term for this. But its the metal that is hanging down from roof strusses to plaaster ceiling. Not sre if its steel or aluminum  blush.gif
*
That one is normal aluminum support (maybe a GI metal) very thin. For plaster ceiling.
scouser7
post Oct 27 2011, 01:51 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 27 2011, 12:57 PM)
That one is normal aluminum support (maybe a GI metal) very thin. For plaster ceiling.
*
yes, that is the one. Does it cost extra if the metal support is longer?
weikee
post Oct 27 2011, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 27 2011, 01:51 PM)
yes, that is the one. Does it cost extra if the metal support is longer?
*
Longer as in from slab to ceiling? Unless length go from 1' to 2' maybe cost some extra. How much more you need to pay? My contractor did not ask for extra.
kelvyn
post Oct 27 2011, 02:11 PM

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IMHO, it should not cost that much to justify the additional RM 1.3 psf that your contractor is charging you. The metal strap is basically secured to the bottom chord of the roof truss
scouser7
post Oct 27 2011, 06:39 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 27 2011, 02:09 PM)
Longer as in from slab to ceiling? Unless length go from 1' to 2' maybe cost some extra. How much more you need to pay? My contractor did not ask for extra.
*
Actually my house is really high in the middle and very low at the front and back just like a pyramid. So the tall areas of the house would need more than 2 feet of the metal support.
Anyway, anyone mind to recommend a plaster ceiling contractor so that i cld get another quote? Tq.

This post has been edited by scouser7: Oct 27 2011, 06:39 PM
weikee
post Oct 27 2011, 06:48 PM

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All my contractor busy now. Don't know they have time do your's. Maybe you source around.
PenangLaksa
post Oct 30 2011, 03:15 PM

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It's coming along nicely. look forward to seeing the final result smile.gif
TSphoenix69
post Oct 31 2011, 01:58 PM

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Renovation updates / something new I've learned

My New Postbox
user posted image

Ground Floor and 1st Floor Levelled (Cemented)
user posted image user posted image

Old Fashioned Levelling Measurement tool. Guess how to use hmm.gif
user posted image

An Alien Spaceship... tongue.gif
Laser Leveling Tool laugh.gif
user posted image user posted image


weikee
post Oct 31 2011, 02:23 PM

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I got similar leveling tool, but is not so spaceship.

user posted image
scouser7
post Oct 31 2011, 04:08 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 31 2011, 02:23 PM)
I got similar leveling tool, but is not so spaceship.

user posted image
*
Hi, can I know what material is ya metal door frame, is it steel or aluminum? I installed aluminum door frames but i realised there are no holes for the lock but your's have it. hmm.gif
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post Oct 31 2011, 04:14 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 31 2011, 04:08 PM)
Hi, can I know what material is ya metal door frame, is it steel or aluminum? I installed aluminum door frames but i realised there are no holes for the lock but your's have it. hmm.gif
*
Its steel type. The hole for the lock is already built in as a standard.
weikee
post Oct 31 2011, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Oct 31 2011, 04:14 PM)
Its steel type. The hole for the lock is already built in as a standard.
*
Hinge is pre-spot weld right? How thick is the metal? I saw few difference steal door frame with difference measurement.
scouser7
post Oct 31 2011, 04:28 PM

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Aiyoo, mine got no hole and im wondering how they gonna make it now that ive already pasang the frame di.
weikee
post Oct 31 2011, 04:29 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Oct 31 2011, 04:28 PM)
Aiyoo, mine got no hole and im wondering how they gonna make it now that ive already pasang the frame di.
*
The door installer will cut the hole using grinder.
scouser7
post Oct 31 2011, 11:32 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 31 2011, 04:29 PM)
The door installer will cut the hole using grinder.
*
Oh ok. Thank God for that. I thought i made another big blunder. sweat.gif

Anyways, whats the pros and cons between steel and aluminum door frames? unsure.gif

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post Nov 1 2011, 10:05 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Oct 31 2011, 04:20 PM)
Hinge is pre-spot weld right? How thick is the metal? I saw few difference steal door frame with difference measurement.
*
Really do not know. just let my contractor get from the hardware shop. tongue.gif
weikee
post Nov 1 2011, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 1 2011, 10:05 AM)
Really do not know. just let my contractor get from the hardware shop.  tongue.gif
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It can go from 0.8mm to 1.7mm (for safety door), best is get 1.3mm
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Air Cond Piping lesson

The last thing I expect to have headache about is Air cond piping.
I thought - choose air cond, agree on installation price then its go.
Little did i know that the copper piping for these air cond will cause me headache. doh.gif

Eventually I plan to put 7 air cond in my house.
As I have limited $$$ now, decide to put 2 air cond first. sad.gif

My wetwork contractor advised me to prepare the piping first for the other air cond so in future when install the balance air cond then no need hacking in the walls any more to conceal the pipes.
So I gotten my electrical contractor to quote me.

This was what I've got:-

Installation Charges (Concealed, no free piping at all)
1.0HP - RM160
1.5HP - RM180
2.0HP - RM230
2.5HP - RM260

Concealed Copper Piping Charges / feet
1.0HP - RM17
1.5HP - RM19
2.0HP - RM22
2.5HP - RM25

Water Piping
RM 6.00 feet.

With 7 air cond piping running between 20 - 40 feet each this is gonna cost me a bomb rclxub.gif


So I went hunting for another quote, got one but after some digging,
Initially, I thought I struck the mother lode but further digging (literally tongue.gif ) it is quite costly too :- as below

Installation Charges (Non Concealed, free 10 Feet copper piping)
1.0HP - RM130
1.5HP - RM150
2.0HP - RM200
2.5HP - RM250
Which sounds good but when Its concealed (Each unit add RM180) doh.gif

Copper Piping Charges / feet
1.0HP - RM10
1.5HP - RM12
2.0HP - RM14
2.5HP - RM16
Which sounds good but when Its concealed (Each unit add RM180) doh.gif doh.gif

In the end decided to stick with existing electrical contractor rather than bringing another guy... rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Nov 4 2011, 12:55 PM
kelvyn
post Nov 4 2011, 01:44 PM

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It depends on where you are planning to locate the compressor and the blower unit.
For e.g for most rooms where the blower unit is located just above the window & the compressor unit located just behind the wall. This is what they call back-to-back installation.
The cost for the copper piping (around 10') is included in their price for installation.
No piping will be seen on the inside of the house. Maybe short length will be exposed on the outside. If you are particular about that, then get the installed to put the piping inside PVC casing. Charge per length of the casing. Very cheap only. smile.gif

Just have to make sure you have install the electrical wiring for AC. biggrin.gif
Pegasus88
post Nov 4 2011, 11:34 PM

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wow the laser leveling alien thing is so coool....is that applicable for tiles applying also ? hehe looks like my contractor is just using the black line for marking only
TSphoenix69
post Nov 5 2011, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 1 2011, 10:24 AM)
It can go from 0.8mm to 1.7mm (for safety door), best is get 1.3mm
*
Found out the spec. Its 1.5mm (on the label) . Should be OK. smile.gif


Added on November 5, 2011, 9:29 am
QUOTE(Pegasus88 @ Nov 4 2011, 11:34 PM)
wow the laser leveling alien thing is so coool....is that applicable for tiles applying also ? hehe looks like my contractor is just using the black line for marking only
*
According to my wetwork conyractor, applicable also wor... blink.gif
(the tiler is another guy icon_rolleyes.gif )

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Nov 5 2011, 09:29 AM
scouser7
post Nov 7 2011, 12:26 AM

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Guys what you think of this quote I got from Plaster ceiling guy called Ah keong from cheras? Note that most of the plaster ceiling steel/alu rod which is used to hold the plaster board is beyond 2 feet coz my ceiling is very high. Thanks in advance blush.gif

MASTER ROOM
Ft Price/ft Total Amount (RM)

a) Ceiling 165 2.50 RM412.50
b) L-Box Light Holder 70 13.00 RM910.00
c) Curtain L-Box Light Holder 11 13.00 RM143.00

SMALL ROOM (BEHIND)

a) Ceiling 90 2.50 RM225.00
b) L-Box 38 13.00 RM494.00

LIVING HALL

a) Ceiling 266 2.50 RM665.00
b) Staircase step 78 15.00 RM1,170.00
c) Curtain L-Box Light Holder 14 13.00 RM182.00

2nd LIVING HALL

a) Ceiling 121 2.50 RM302.50
b) L-Box Light Holder 22 13.00 RM286.00
c) L-Box 4 13.00 RM52.00

CARPARK

a) Ceiling 319 2.50 RM797.50
b) Fan L-Box 24 13.00 RM312.00

Others ceiling 555 2.50 RM1,387.50
Fan hanger 9 15.00 RM135.00

TOTAL RM7,000.00 (discount from RM7474.00)
zheilwane
post Nov 7 2011, 10:41 PM

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what took ur reno so long? i thought u gonna move in soon d...
TSphoenix69
post Nov 8 2011, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Nov 7 2011, 12:26 AM)
Guys what you think of this quote I got from Plaster ceiling guy called Ah keong from cheras? Note that most of the plaster ceiling steel/alu rod which is used to hold the plaster board is beyond 2 feet coz my ceiling is very high. Thanks in advance blush.gif

MASTER ROOM
Ft Price/ft Total Amount (RM)

a) Ceiling 165 2.50 RM412.50
b) L-Box Light Holder 70 13.00 RM910.00
c) Curtain L-Box Light Holder 11 13.00 RM143.00

SMALL ROOM (BEHIND)

a) Ceiling 90 2.50 RM225.00
b) L-Box 38 13.00 RM494.00

LIVING HALL

a) Ceiling 266 2.50 RM665.00
b) Staircase step 78 15.00 RM1,170.00
c) Curtain L-Box Light Holder 14 13.00 RM182.00

2nd LIVING HALL

a) Ceiling 121 2.50 RM302.50
b) L-Box Light Holder 22 13.00 RM286.00
c) L-Box 4 13.00 RM52.00

CARPARK

a) Ceiling 319 2.50 RM797.50
b) Fan L-Box 24 13.00 RM312.00

Others ceiling 555 2.50 RM1,387.50
Fan hanger 9 15.00 RM135.00

TOTAL RM7,000.00 (discount from RM7474.00)
*
I would say its a bit (only a bit) on the high side.
You can search from my previous post on this topic in and in the Plaster Ceiling thread to get an idea. icon_rolleyes.gif


Added on November 8, 2011, 10:18 am
QUOTE(zheilwane @ Nov 7 2011, 10:41 PM)
what took ur reno so long? i thought u gonna move in soon d...
*


Have trouble with

Money (no enough) cry.gif

Coordinating with Wetwork contractor, electrical contractor, plaster ceiling contractor, tiling contractor, and grill contractor. 1 delay all others delay. rclxub.gif

No place to stay now, hanging out in parents place sad.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Nov 8 2011, 10:18 AM
kelvyn
post Nov 8 2011, 01:02 PM

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No worries la.... got parents place to stay. Free rental.... tongue.gif
TSphoenix69
post Nov 8 2011, 05:53 PM

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Renovation Update...

Got My Concrete kitchen table top done - 2.5" thick so far. biggrin.gif

user posted image

Car porch "Kaki Lima" base ready

user posted image

Pergola skeleton ready

user posted image


BUT ..... !!!!! doh.gif

There is things that needs major,,, MAJOR RE-DO rclxub.gif

Fung Shui Re Do. DDoor needs to be removed from here. If not all the "Choy" Flow allll out sad.gif
Security door some more .. doh.gif This is gonna cost me cry.gif

user posted image


Gonna remove all the side wall / stairs rail....
If not can't move king size mattress upstairs. rclxub.gif
Buttt.... I think the end result should be kinda nice.... cool2.gif

user posted image



All this gonna totally tank my avalaible funds, Gotta talk to bank liao rclxub.gif
kamion
post Nov 8 2011, 06:38 PM

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Feng shui............ cannot believe wan la. All shui is good shui. wink.gif

As for stair case.............. got any big window upstairs? Maybe mattress can enter through window or balcony door?


TSphoenix69
post Nov 8 2011, 06:49 PM

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QUOTE(kamion @ Nov 8 2011, 06:38 PM)
Feng shui............ cannot believe wan la. All shui is good shui. wink.gif

As for stair case.............. got any big window upstairs? Maybe mattress can enter through window or balcony door?
*
This "Fung Shui " advice is from a source that is damm power. Cannot ignore ... its from MOTHER tongue.gif

I got big darn huge windows upstairs butttt..... the biggest opening is 22" X 71".. The darn bed is 72" doh.gif doh.gif
Anyway cant expect the moving guys to do dangerous highwire performance all the time. blush.gif
kamion
post Nov 8 2011, 07:04 PM

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laugh.gif Ok. Mother can contribute to some of the cost then. wink.gif
weikee
post Nov 8 2011, 07:13 PM

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You house main door face direct to rear door?
kelvyn
post Nov 8 2011, 08:19 PM

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How come did not consult the "powerful" Feng Shui master first? biggrin.gif
driftmeister
post Nov 8 2011, 08:34 PM

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feng shui...before u get rich...the feng shui already got rich tongue.gif
ssshk
post Nov 9 2011, 09:02 AM

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is ur contractor going to be angry? he almost done it, now want to redo again..?
kelvyn
post Nov 9 2011, 09:15 AM

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Pay money only... why contractor will get angry?
They will get angry if ask them to do for free tongue.gif
ssshk
post Nov 9 2011, 09:54 AM

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Some contractor's timetable is very busy.. mayb he got some other big projects. Keep changing will delay his time..
kelvyn
post Nov 9 2011, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(ssshk @ Nov 9 2011, 10:54 AM)
Some contractor's timetable is very busy.. mayb he got some other big projects. Keep changing will delay his time..
*
Quite true also... anyhow, most of the experience contractor will understand this and take this as part and parcel of the renovation work.. tongue.gif
tiensong
post Nov 9 2011, 03:48 PM

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May I know how much total cost of renovation so far?
ssshk
post Nov 9 2011, 03:57 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 8 2011, 05:53 PM)
Renovation Update...

Got My Concrete kitchen table top done - 2.5" thick so far.  biggrin.gif

user posted image

Car porch "Kaki Lima" base ready

user posted image

Pergola skeleton ready

user posted image
BUT ..... !!!!!  doh.gif

There is things that needs major,,, MAJOR RE-DO  rclxub.gif

Fung Shui Re Do. DDoor needs to be removed from here. If not all the "Choy" Flow allll out    sad.gif
Security door some more .. doh.gif  This is gonna cost me  cry.gif

user posted image
Gonna remove all the side wall / stairs rail....
If not can't move king size mattress upstairs.  rclxub.gif
Buttt.... I think the end result should be kinda nice....  cool2.gif

user posted image
All this gonna totally tank my avalaible funds, Gotta talk to bank liao  rclxub.gif
*
u borrow money from bank for reno?
tiensong
post Nov 9 2011, 04:09 PM

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How much your timber pergola per sq ft?

This post has been edited by tiensong: Nov 9 2011, 04:09 PM
TSphoenix69
post Nov 9 2011, 06:37 PM

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Added on November 9, 2011, 6:53 pm
QUOTE(kelvyn @ Nov 8 2011, 01:02 PM)
No worries la.... got parents place to stay. Free rental....  tongue.gif
*
Feel like teenager living off parents sad.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Nov 9 2011, 06:54 PM
TSphoenix69
post Nov 9 2011, 06:57 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 8 2011, 07:13 PM)
You house main door face direct to rear door?
*
Not at all. At totally different corner.
Just that the location of the rear door faces the sewage tank directly which in turn directly face the rear room window. doh.gif


Added on November 9, 2011, 7:01 pm
QUOTE(kelvyn @ Nov 8 2011, 08:19 PM)
How come did not consult the "powerful" Feng Shui master first? biggrin.gif
*
Fung shui master did not mention this area.
The location of the rear door was my "brilliant" idea blush.gif

I thought it will provide easy access to my sewage tank in case indah water wants to do major maintenance.
Now someone told me that the indah water pipe can bend one so no need door to be directly in line with sewage tank. doh.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Nov 9 2011, 07:01 PM
TSphoenix69
post Nov 9 2011, 07:04 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Nov 9 2011, 11:02 AM)
Quite true also... anyhow, most of the experience contractor will understand this and take this as part and parcel of the renovation work.. tongue.gif
*
Wetwork contractor is Ok with this he just doh.gif rclxub.gif shocking.gif

sweat.gif

TSphoenix69
post Nov 9 2011, 07:05 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Nov 9 2011, 04:09 PM)
How much your timber pergola per sq ft?
*
RM22/sq feet , without tiles. My wetwork contractor belanja tiles tongue.gif
weikee
post Nov 9 2011, 08:38 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 9 2011, 06:57 PM)
Not at all. At totally different corner.
Just that the location of the rear door faces the sewage tank directly which in turn directly face the rear room window.  doh.gif
I don't see this as a problem. Unless the sewerage are dirty and smelly.
ssshk
post Nov 10 2011, 04:47 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jul 22 2011, 09:17 PM)
If the soil condition below your footing is soft and not able to take the load from the structure above, then one of the way is to use piling. The type of piling (material) required will depends on the load and also the soil type. The material for piling can be timber, RC, steel, etc.

In most cases, the loads from a house extension are not too heavy that requires piling, unless the soil is very soft or the footing is situated close to a slope, etc. First option is to try enlarging the footing's size instead of using piling as it will be much cheaper the piling. Only when this does not work, then only piling comes in. As piling is more expensive.

Bakau trees are found in mangrove swamps wetlands. These can be use as piles to support light loads. As Bakau trees are found in mangrove swamps, they should only be used in water logged soil. If you try to place Bakau into dry soil, the material will deteriorate in no time; thus defeat it purpose.
*
which piling is the strongest? RC or steel?
TSphoenix69
post Nov 10 2011, 07:18 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 9 2011, 08:38 PM)
I don't see this as a problem. Unless the sewerage are dirty and smelly.
*
If Direct Direct Direct.....in a straight line...all the "choy" flow out lor (fung Shui logic)
weikee
post Nov 10 2011, 08:43 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 10 2011, 07:18 PM)
If Direct Direct Direct.....in a straight line...all the "choy" flow out lor (fung Shui logic)
*
If is direct, in between just have a partition will do.
TSphoenix69
post Nov 11 2011, 09:16 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 10 2011, 08:43 PM)
If is direct, in between just have a partition will do.
*
Partition not good enough, furthermore affect functionality.
vincentjaya
post Nov 11 2011, 07:29 PM

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Hi phoenix69, been lurking and following your journey all these while. Things look good so far!

May I know where you got your letterbox?

Cheers
TSphoenix69
post Nov 11 2011, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(vincentjaya @ Nov 11 2011, 07:29 PM)
Hi phoenix69, been lurking and following your journey all these while. Things look good so far!

May I know where you got your letterbox?

Cheers
*
Its a cheapo letter box my contractor bought from a regular hardware shop tongue.gif
Jo_da48
post Nov 11 2011, 10:52 PM

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You have two walk way to the Kitchen? Else how the straight line came from?
Your Kitchen on you right side and the back door on your left side. so it actually was "L" not straight....
*Base on your above photo (Kitchen & the Back door photo)


This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Nov 11 2011, 10:53 PM
TSphoenix69
post Nov 12 2011, 12:38 AM

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QUOTE(Jo_da48 @ Nov 11 2011, 10:52 PM)
You have two walk way to the Kitchen? Else how the straight line came from?
Your Kitchen on you right side and the back door on your left side. so it actually was "L" not straight....
*Base on your above photo (Kitchen & the Back door photo)
*
Not 2 walkway , one only. You are right. The door is actually located on the right side, (kitchen left) in what I called a laundry room.
That is why I said the window from the back room faces the rear door, not the walkway.
- I was describing the position from the inside,
- from the rear outside looking in Jo_da48 description will also be right
Jo_da48
post Nov 12 2011, 12:52 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 12 2011, 12:38 AM)
Not 2 walkway , one only. You are right. The door is actually located on the right side, (kitchen left) in what I called a laundry room.
That is why I said the window from the back room faces the rear door, not the walkway.
- I was describing the position from the inside,
- from the rear outside looking in Jo_da48 description will also be right
*
Than on Fun Sui is not straight line, because straight line meant from your Main Door / go through Living Hall / Dinner and KC and out from back door. it is BAD.
Or even more simple description is stand at your main door, you should not see your backdoor (straight line).

But I maybe wrong ...Phoenix, who advide you change the door position? and your contractor is chinese rights? what he said about that?

Also, how long is your Concrete kitchen table? Is the leg only on each side? is that strong enoght?


This post has been edited by Jo_da48: Nov 12 2011, 01:01 AM
TSphoenix69
post Nov 12 2011, 06:53 PM

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QUOTE(Jo_da48 @ Nov 12 2011, 12:52 AM)
Than on Fun Sui is not straight line, because straight line meant from your Main Door / go through Living Hall / Dinner and KC and out from back door. it is BAD.
Or even more simple description is stand at your main door, you should not see your backdoor (straight line).

But I maybe wrong ...Phoenix, who advide you change the door position? and your contractor is chinese rights? what he said about that?

Also, how long is your Concrete kitchen table? Is the leg only on each side? is that strong enoght?
*
The straight line does not mean front to back door, but the room window, to the "sewage tank" to the rear door.

Not contractor .... my mom blush.gif




This post has been edited by phoenix69: Nov 12 2011, 06:57 PM
Jo_da48
post Nov 12 2011, 10:27 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 12 2011, 06:53 PM)
The straight line does not mean front to back door, but the room window, to the "sewage tank" to the rear door.

Not contractor .... my mom  blush.gif
*
Your MOM??? whistling.gif
No further comments than....Good luck lol


weikee
post Nov 12 2011, 10:33 PM

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If you want to follow, get a real FS to audit. Don't just listen to this person, that person..
TSphoenix69
post Nov 12 2011, 11:39 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 12 2011, 10:33 PM)
If you want to follow, get a real FS to audit. Don't just listen to this person, that person..
*
actually so far only 1 FS master. This one have to incorporate in as it is Mother liao.
I do not really follow 100% the FS master, so far only 70-80% tongue.gif
coconutzz
post Nov 16 2011, 08:45 AM

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Bro may i ask what is your window measurement at Porch area?
TSphoenix69
post Nov 16 2011, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Nov 16 2011, 08:45 AM)
Bro may i ask what is your window measurement at Porch area?
*


Approx 12' X 6'. You wanna do something similar?
scouser7
post Nov 16 2011, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 8 2011, 05:53 PM)
Renovation Update...

Got My Concrete kitchen table top done - 2.5" thick so far.  biggrin.gif

user posted image

Car porch "Kaki Lima" base ready

user posted image

Pergola skeleton ready

user posted image
BUT ..... !!!!!  doh.gif

There is things that needs major,,, MAJOR RE-DO  rclxub.gif

Fung Shui Re Do. DDoor needs to be removed from here. If not all the "Choy" Flow allll out    sad.gif
Security door some more .. doh.gif  This is gonna cost me  cry.gif

user posted image
Gonna remove all the side wall / stairs rail....
If not can't move king size mattress upstairs.  rclxub.gif
Buttt.... I think the end result should be kinda nice....  cool2.gif

user posted image
All this gonna totally tank my avalaible funds, Gotta talk to bank liao  rclxub.gif
*
Looking at your concrete table top picture, can i know what is the depth from the wall without the tiles? My concrete table top is similar and have plans to fix 2'x2' tiles. However, i think mine is short 2 inches off 2 feet. Wondering if I can still fix 2'x2' tiles? Hope you would be able to share. Thank you.
ssshk
post Nov 16 2011, 11:40 AM

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any updates? i want to see how you relocate your door ^^
kelvyn
post Nov 16 2011, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Nov 16 2011, 12:27 PM)
Looking at your concrete table top picture, can i know what is the depth from the wall without the tiles? My concrete table top is similar and have plans to fix 2'x2' tiles. However, i think mine is short 2 inches off 2 feet. Wondering if I can still fix 2'x2' tiles? Hope you would be able to share. Thank you.
*
2" short of 2' should be about right. You cannot have the conc table exactly 2' deep and use 2' tiles. There is need to have allowance for the front side for the tiles. smile.gif
Jo_da48
post Nov 16 2011, 02:46 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 12 2011, 11:39 PM)
actually so far only 1 FS master. This one have to incorporate in as it is Mother liao.
I do not really follow 100% the FS master, so far only 70-80%  tongue.gif
*
hahah...I only follow 50%, else I think we not even after to move into house at all, somemore, every year the FS will change and have to suit to each family member, how many time could be follow lol.
So what I do is try if possiable getting something to avoid it
scouser7
post Nov 16 2011, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Nov 16 2011, 12:44 PM)
2" short of 2' should be about right. You cannot have the conc table exactly 2' deep and use 2' tiles. There is need to have allowance for the front side for the tiles. smile.gif
*
Thanks for ya reply kelyvn. Thats what i thought as well but wouldn't the 2" gap be affected once the wall tile is placed? Sorry for noob question.
coconutzz
post Nov 16 2011, 03:38 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 16 2011, 09:46 AM)
Approx 12' X 6'. You wanna do something similar?
*
Yes..thinking of removing my sliding door and replace it with this kinda windows smile.gif
kelvyn
post Nov 16 2011, 03:49 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Nov 16 2011, 04:26 PM)
Thanks for ya reply kelyvn. Thats what i thought as well but wouldn't the 2" gap be affected once the wall tile is placed? Sorry for noob question.
*
Normally the wall tiles are much thinner than the the 2' tiles used for the conc table. Another is that the wall tiles may not be exactly parallel with the edge of the conc table. So, having slightly more tolerance will avoid having to hack later. Anyway, the tiler would be able to adjust when he does the table.


Added on November 16, 2011, 3:52 pm
QUOTE(coconutzz @ Nov 16 2011, 04:38 PM)
Yes..thinking of removing my sliding door and replace it with this kinda windows smile.gif
*
Frankly, I personally don't find any use of the sliding door if you already have a timber/ security door. Better to change them to windows, IMHO smile.gif

This post has been edited by kelvyn: Nov 16 2011, 03:52 PM
coconutzz
post Nov 16 2011, 03:57 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Nov 16 2011, 03:49 PM)
Normally the wall tiles are much thinner than the the 2' tiles used for the conc table. Another is that the wall tiles may not be exactly parallel with the edge of the conc table. So, having slightly more tolerance will avoid having to hack later. Anyway, the tiler would be able to adjust when he does the table.


Added on November 16, 2011, 3:52 pm
Frankly, I personally don't find any use of the sliding door if you already have a timber/ security door. Better to change them to windows, IMHO smile.gif
*
Yup that is exactly wat i m planning to do...i have started talking to contractors.and i realised it is really not easy man...

Now my contractor telling me there are leakages from the roof...he suggested that i also consider repairing / replacing the tiles on the roof, wonder how much would it cost...

Bro Phoenix, are u doing anything to your roof? if yes, mind letting me know estimated cost?


This post has been edited by coconutzz: Nov 16 2011, 03:57 PM
tiensong
post Nov 16 2011, 04:10 PM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Nov 16 2011, 03:57 PM)
Yup that is exactly wat i m planning to do...i have started talking to contractors.and i realised it is really not easy man...

Now my contractor telling me there are leakages from the roof...he suggested that i also consider repairing / replacing the tiles on the roof, wonder how much would it cost...

Bro Phoenix, are u doing anything to your roof? if yes, mind letting me know estimated cost?
*
I replaced whole roof tiles for RM3000 including labour...

This post has been edited by tiensong: Nov 16 2011, 04:10 PM
weikee
post Nov 16 2011, 04:30 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Nov 16 2011, 04:10 PM)
I replaced whole roof tiles for RM3000 including labour...
*
Normal cement tiles right? not the Clay (glossy)
tiensong
post Nov 16 2011, 04:44 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 16 2011, 04:30 PM)
Normal cement tiles right? not the Clay (glossy)
*
yes..not glossy...and I don't like glossy too...
weikee
post Nov 16 2011, 04:48 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Nov 16 2011, 04:44 PM)
yes..not glossy...and I don't like glossy too...
*
My contractor advice when change get the glossy, cause the normal cement will not last compare to the old days. I wanted to change, he tell me better paint it. So I pay him 3k to paint, and add metal sheet Think another few Ks
tiensong
post Nov 16 2011, 05:00 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 16 2011, 04:48 PM)
My contractor advice when change get the glossy, cause the normal cement will not last compare to the old days. I wanted to change, he tell me better paint it. So I pay him 3k to paint, and add metal sheet Think another few Ks
*
I see..

I didn't know such problem...when I saw all new houses also using normal cement, so I just followed...


TSphoenix69
post Nov 16 2011, 05:34 PM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Nov 16 2011, 03:57 PM)
Yup that is exactly wat i m planning to do...i have started talking to contractors.and i realised it is really not easy man...

Now my contractor telling me there are leakages from the roof...he suggested that i also consider repairing / replacing the tiles on the roof, wonder how much would it cost...

Bro Phoenix, are u doing anything to your roof? if yes, mind letting me know estimated cost?
*
Roof tiles is an issue all by itself. Is yours leaking now?
When I got this house, there was a leak.
My wetwork contractor repaired it as he was there doing the renovation and when it rains, he could zeroed in on the location.

Initially he replaced some roof tiles that were damaged. Later when there was a very "heavy" rain, he found another cause which was the roof corner tiles which needed a much more work intensive repairs with sealant.

Luckily he cincai and did not charge me extra for that. tongue.gif

KVReninem
post Nov 16 2011, 05:37 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 13 2011, 11:49 AM)
I was told that by my hardware suppliers customers that buy PE sheet from me that the developers/contractors use PE sheet as part of house foundation.  smile.gif
*
that in construction meant for water vapour proofing & soil intact compaction.
coconutzz
post Nov 16 2011, 07:50 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 16 2011, 05:34 PM)
Roof tiles is an issue all by itself. Is yours leaking now?
When I got this house, there was a leak.
My wetwork contractor repaired it as he was there doing the renovation and when it rains, he could zeroed in on the location.

Initially he replaced some roof tiles that were damaged. Later when there was a very "heavy" rain, he found another cause which was the roof corner tiles which needed a much more work intensive repairs with sealant.

Luckily he cincai and did not charge me extra for that.  tongue.gif
*
Not yet, just the other when he was over to do some survey he saw some water marks on my wall near ceiling and a few other rooms..so he said..theere is a leak definitely..so maybe need to something..

he hasnt gone up to really see yet..as I havent awarded him the job smile.gif

so at least now i have a gauge of RM3-5k for roof
TSphoenix69
post Nov 16 2011, 11:43 PM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Nov 16 2011, 07:50 PM)
Not yet, just the other when he was over to do some survey he saw some water marks on my wall near ceiling and a few other rooms..so he said..theere is a leak definitely..so maybe need to something..

he hasnt gone up to really see yet..as I havent awarded him the job smile.gif

so at least now i have a gauge of RM3-5k for roof
*
The best is when it rains kuat kuat , you and your contractor personally go up under roof to observe and pinpoint fault. tongue.gif
J1@l_ l_l l\l
post Nov 18 2011, 01:27 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 4 2011, 12:50 PM)
Air Cond Piping lesson
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Which refrigerent is the rate of the concealed pipings for? R410A or R22?

FYI, rate of pipings for R410A (DC compressor type) is typically more expensive than R22 (typical AC compressor type).

I was quoted RM15/ft and RM18/ft for 1HP R410A and 1.5HP R410A respectively for hacking of the wall and installation of pipings, concealing work is not included as most air conditioner contractors are not expertise in doing concrete concealing work.



QUOTE(driftmeister @ Nov 8 2011, 08:34 PM)
feng shui...before u get rich...the feng shui already got rich tongue.gif
*
+1


This post has been edited by J1@l_ l_l l\l: Nov 18 2011, 01:30 PM
TSphoenix69
post Nov 18 2011, 01:48 PM

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QUOTE(J1@l_ l_l l\l @ Nov 18 2011, 01:27 PM)
Which refrigerent is the rate of the concealed pipings for? R410A or R22?

FYI, rate of pipings for R410A (DC compressor type) is typically more expensive than R22 (typical AC compressor type).

I was quoted RM15/ft and RM18/ft for 1HP R410A and 1.5HP R410A respectively for hacking of the wall and installation of pipings, concealing work is not included as most air conditioner contractors are not expertise in doing concrete concealing work.
+1
*
All the cost is for inverter type - R410A - the more expensive type. blush.gif
horeddy
post Nov 18 2011, 05:40 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 18 2011, 01:48 PM)
All the cost is for inverter type - R410A - the more expensive type.  blush.gif
*
I would like to share about inverter a/cond.
It will save energy/electricity after a continuous usage of 4 hours and above.
So, it's advisable to install in those area that the a/cond is switch on for long hours. rclxm9.gif

TS,
Need your advise on the rates on plaster ceiling.
After running through this thread, I found that the price quoted for the plaster ceiling is way lower than mine.
I intend to do up only the edges of the ceiling square in my living and dinning hall. To hold row of hidden flourencent lights and to install downlights beneath.
Living 16ft x 2 + 15ft x 2 = 64sq ft
Dinning 16ft x 2 + 5 ft x 2 = 42sq ft
My contractor quoted RM20per sq ft.
Total RM2120.


Doors and windows grilles
-----------------------------
My contractor quoted me mild steel with powder coating Door - RM22per sq ft / Window - RM20per sq ft.



Are the above prices quoted reasonable?? icon_question.gif Need your feed back.

Tks


TSphoenix69
post Nov 18 2011, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(horeddy @ Nov 18 2011, 05:40 PM)
I would like to share about inverter a/cond.
It will save energy/electricity after a continuous usage of 4 hours and above.
So, it's advisable to install in those area that the a/cond is switch on for long hours. rclxm9.gif

TS,
Need your advise on the rates on plaster ceiling.
After running through this thread, I found that the price quoted for the plaster ceiling is way lower than mine.
I intend to do up only the edges of the ceiling square in my living and dinning hall. To hold row of hidden flourencent lights and to install downlights beneath.
Living       16ft x 2 + 15ft x 2  =   64sq ft
Dinning    16ft x 2 +  5 ft x 2  =   42sq ft
My contractor quoted RM20per sq ft.
Total RM2120.
Doors and windows grilles
-----------------------------
My contractor quoted me mild steel with powder coating  Door - RM22per sq ft / Window - RM20per sq ft.
Are the above prices quoted reasonable??   icon_question.gif        Need your feed back.

Tks
*
The plaster ceiling on the surface looks pricey but then you only do the edges so I do not know if the regular cost structure apply.

For Door and window grille look at this guy
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2021842&hl=

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Nov 18 2011, 06:11 PM
horeddy
post Nov 19 2011, 10:04 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 18 2011, 06:05 PM)
The plaster ceiling on the surface looks pricey but then you only do the edges so I do not know if the regular cost structure apply.

For Door and window grille look at this guy
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2021842&hl=
*
Hi TS
Thank you for helping me. Appreciated. rclxms.gif
TSphoenix69
post Nov 21 2011, 08:35 PM

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Renovation updates...

The Major Re-Do... Re done

Back Door "Shifted"

user posted image

My new "designer" staircase tongue.gif

user posted image

House wiring and air cond piping criss crossing all over the ceiling... to be concealed soon.

user posted image

Kitchen and sanitary-wares from our good fore-runner zheliwane

user posted imageuser posted image

Guess what this is.... also from zheilwane hmm.gif tongue.gif

user posted image
kelvyn
post Nov 21 2011, 09:26 PM

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Solar water heater? tongue.gif
TSphoenix69
post Nov 21 2011, 11:01 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Nov 21 2011, 09:26 PM)
Solar water heater?  tongue.gif
*
Bingo ! rclxms.gif
Cant go above the roof to take picture so "bawah mali" tongue.gif
weikee
post Nov 21 2011, 11:29 PM

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You never use zinc to cover your roof?
snail_yin
post Nov 22 2011, 01:13 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 21 2011, 11:01 PM)
Bingo !  rclxms.gif
Cant go above the roof to take picture so "bawah mali"  tongue.gif
*
Wahh..how much you got that solar heater thing?
kamion
post Nov 22 2011, 03:28 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 21 2011, 11:29 PM)
You never use zinc to cover your roof?
*
You mean aluminium sheet to keep the heat out?
weikee
post Nov 22 2011, 11:43 PM

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QUOTE(kamion @ Nov 22 2011, 03:28 PM)
You mean aluminium sheet to keep the heat out?
*
Yes, and prevent thief. Sorry think is zinc sheet (for my house)
leeyung
post Nov 22 2011, 11:51 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 22 2011, 11:43 PM)
Yes, and prevent thief. Sorry think is zinc sheet (for my house)
*
any recommendation and what is the price range for such zinc sheet covering?
zheilwane
post Nov 23 2011, 12:24 AM

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QUOTE(snail_yin @ Nov 22 2011, 01:13 AM)
Wahh..how much you got that solar heater thing?
*
Very cheap only. He bought Solar Power RM 3k+ only and got special price with Grundfos Package.
KVReninem
post Nov 24 2011, 08:10 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 21 2011, 11:35 PM)
Renovation updates...

The Major Re-Do... Re done

Back Door "Shifted"

user posted image

My new "designer" staircase  tongue.gif

user posted image

House wiring and air cond piping criss crossing all over the ceiling... to be concealed soon.

user posted image

Kitchen and sanitary-wares from our good fore-runner zheliwane

user posted imageuser posted image

Guess what this is.... also from zheilwane  hmm.gif  tongue.gif

user posted image
*
I saw hansgrohe!, btw bro; how much did you got it for & where ? sweat.gif
scouser7
post Nov 24 2011, 11:14 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Sep 30 2011, 10:53 PM)
I was around Pasar Road today and decided to drop by Wong Lighting (M) S/B. since weikee mentioned this place.  tongue.gif

Was attended by a nice saleslady, Susan
Told her that I was looking for downlight and my ceiling height was around 8.5' after plaster ceiling.
She recommended me to utilize 4" diameter downlight as my ceiling height is low. (higher ceiling can use 6" diameter and above)

Here is what I learned.
Clip on energy savings bulb has 10 , 13 , 18 , and 26 watt.
Screw on energy bulb has 8 , 11 , 14 , 20 , and 23 watt.

The higher the watt the brighter it is.
The higher the wattage of the bulb, the longer (size) the bulb is.
Thus some small downlight casing can not fit hugher wattage bulb due to size limitation.

The advantage of screw on bulb is that, you can change the bulb type (wattage), without changing the ballast (since screw on bulb, no external ballast)

A 18 watt vertical bulb can provide 100 level light.
A 10 watt horizontal bulb can provide only 50 level light
(not sure about this, just what I was told)

They sell distribute Hitachi bulbs, sell osram and philip bulb, they do not sell GE bulb.

The better external ballast they have is from Malaysia-Solex

Was quoted
4" Vertical Round Downlight  - Solex, 18 watt bulb (clip on) RM23.00

4" Horizontal Round Downlight - Solex, 13 watt bulb (Clip on) , (Cant fit bigger bulb, 1 piece only - max 2 pc per downlight) RM29.00

1" Downlight casing - RM 22, together with LED bulb + driver - RM 55.

Track type with movable spotlight , 3' track - RM18, 6' - RM36. 1 pc spotlight RM32.
The above is what I remember, it is a bit rojak  rclxub.gif  but I hope this helps  blush.gif
*
Hi there!

Was wondering if you have bought ya lights oldi? Im looking for downlighs and fans now and was wondering where I can get a good deal?
zheilwane
post Nov 24 2011, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(KVReninem @ Nov 24 2011, 08:10 PM)
I saw hansgrohe!, btw bro; how much did you got it for & where ? sweat.gif
*
He got it from me during the Hansgrohe promotion
KVReninem
post Nov 25 2011, 02:08 AM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Nov 25 2011, 02:38 AM)
He got it from me during the Hansgrohe promotion
*
Dude; do you have list what you got? brows.gif Cos I cant find any from your Builder Hardware one.

This post has been edited by KVReninem: Nov 25 2011, 02:09 AM
adrianjc
post Nov 25 2011, 07:44 AM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Nov 24 2011, 11:14 PM)
Hi there!

Was wondering if you have bought ya lights oldi? Im looking for downlighs and fans now and was wondering where I can get a good deal?
*
You should try Top Ten in Puchong or around Damansara Utama there are plenty of light shops or Old Klang Road. So many choices, just make sure you scout around first.
gjohn
post Nov 25 2011, 09:45 AM

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wow....still a lot of reno to do...
good luck bro...ehehe
weikee
post Nov 25 2011, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(adrianjc @ Nov 25 2011, 07:44 AM)
You should try Top Ten in Puchong or around Damansara Utama there are plenty of light shops or Old Klang Road. So many choices, just make sure you scout around first.
*
Been there "Top Ten", price is not really very cheap till you have to endure the slow service. The FAN price is not the cheapest, legend quote me cheaper, and Bayu is only RM 1 to RM 2 difference. Downlight quality are so so only
tiensong
post Nov 25 2011, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 25 2011, 09:49 AM)
Been there "Top Ten", price is not really very cheap till you have to endure the slow service. The FAN price is not the cheapest, legend quote me cheaper, and Bayu is only RM 1 to RM 2 difference. Downlight quality are so so only
*
I am so regret to rely TOP TEN too much...I bought pillar lights at TOP TEN...the biggest size they have is only 12"..They never told me there is 14" in the market but they don't have stock..Recently I found 14" in a shop near my house and it is exactly same design with cheaper price..and I found that the shop also selling the fencing light with the colour I love which TOP TEN don't have...

At that time, i feel REGRET~


TSphoenix69
post Nov 25 2011, 06:35 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Nov 22 2011, 11:43 PM)
Yes, and prevent thief. Sorry think is zinc sheet (for my house)
*
I use the plastic sheet roof to allow light through for the laundry area to dry clothes.
I guess it will serve the same function as a zinc sheet. blush.gif


Added on November 25, 2011, 6:39 pm
QUOTE(KVReninem @ Nov 25 2011, 02:08 AM)
Dude; do you have list what you got? brows.gif Cos I cant find any from your Builder Hardware one.
*
This batch of Hans Grohe products, I got it at a very special rate. Loooonnng story.
I'll leave it to zheilwane @ Builders Hardware to tell you if he wants to. tongue.gif


Added on November 25, 2011, 6:45 pm
QUOTE(tiensong @ Nov 25 2011, 10:15 AM)
I am so regret to rely TOP TEN too much...I bought pillar lights at TOP TEN...the biggest size they have is only 12"..They never told me there is 14" in the market but they don't have stock..Recently I found 14" in a shop near my house and it is exactly same design with cheaper price..and I found that the shop also selling the fencing light with the colour I love which TOP TEN don't have...

At that time, i feel REGRET~
*
Plan to go get downlights soon either from Top Ten or Wong Lightning.
Open to any recommendations.
Medium quality casing will do. Good quality though
Hafta be cost conscious tongue.gif
above 50 pcs downlight rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Nov 25 2011, 06:45 PM
weikee
post Nov 25 2011, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 25 2011, 06:35 PM)


Plan to go get downlights soon either from Top Ten or Wong Lightning.
Open to any recommendations.
Medium quality casing will do. Good quality though
Hafta be cost conscious  tongue.gif
above 50 pcs downlight  rclxub.gif
*
I'll vote for Wong lighting. Try the PJ branch, recently renovate, and very nice.
zheilwane
post Nov 25 2011, 09:24 PM

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QUOTE(KVReninem @ Nov 25 2011, 02:08 AM)
Dude; do you have list what you got? brows.gif Cos I cant find any from your Builder Hardware one.
*
Just let me know what hansgrohe model u wan, i try to get it for u
skng03
post Nov 25 2011, 09:40 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Nov 25 2011, 06:35 PM)
I use the plastic sheet roof to allow light through for the laundry area to dry clothes.
I guess it will serve the same function as a zinc sheet. blush.gif


Added on November 25, 2011, 6:39 pm

This batch of Hans Grohe products, I got it at a very special rate. Loooonnng story.
I'll leave it to zheilwane @ Builders Hardware to tell you if he wants to.  tongue.gif


Added on November 25, 2011, 6:45 pm

Plan to go get downlights soon either from Top Ten or Wong Lightning.
Open to any recommendations.
Medium quality casing will do. Good quality though
Hafta be cost conscious  tongue.gif
above 50 pcs downlight  rclxub.gif
*
after confirm to use evenzo 9660 6" DL, was searching high & low for best price, from cima lighting balakong to puchong few shop.............but finally bot 80 pcs from a light shop @ sg long, save +-rm6/pc
TSphoenix69
post Nov 29 2011, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(skng03 @ Nov 25 2011, 09:40 PM)
after confirm to use evenzo 9660 6" DL,  was searching high & low for best price, from cima lighting balakong to puchong few shop.............but finally bot 80 pcs from a light shop @ sg long, save +-rm6/pc
*
Wow... evenzo is too rich for my blood...... tongue.gif
Now already hemorrhaging rclxub.gif
kusha
post Dec 1 2011, 12:22 PM

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any picture updates? smile.gif
leepaiwan
post Dec 2 2011, 02:35 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Oct 11 2011, 07:30 PM)
No architect. Just me.  tongue.gif
The guy I pm-ed you drawn out the architect layout for me. nod.gif
Hi phoenix69, pm me too... thanks.

TSphoenix69
post Dec 2 2011, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(leepaiwan @ Dec 2 2011, 02:35 PM)
Hi phoenix69, pm me too... thanks.
*


pm-ed biggrin.gif
TSphoenix69
post Dec 4 2011, 09:33 AM

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Renovation Updates


The renovation recently cater to the "bathing connoisseur / aficionado / enthusiast / zealot / addict / mad / crazy ,,," part of me drool.gif

As mentioned before my contractor installed 2 water tank.
Extra one advantage, if water shortage in my area I have more water storage thus last longer.

user posted image


Tiling has started

Kitchen and Laundry area.. smile.gif
user posted imageuser posted image


Bathroom

user posted imageuser posted image

You will notice there is a feature wall at the shower area I designed myself, I nearly lost my mind choosing that tiles. The tiles I initially choose cost nearly as much as the tiles for 1 whole bathroom tiles. rclxub.gif
Luckily sanity prevailed and I changed my mind after a good night sleep sweat.gif

Things I've learned hmm.gif
: - locate your water tank along the concrete wall top, depending on roof truss timber to provide support is not enough. Water damm heavy. flex.gif
:- Usually cement is used to adhere tiles to wall,
Adhesive (susu) is used when shiny, glossy tiles are involved. The chemicals that are used to process these tiles cause the tiles to have reduced adhesion thus susu) is needed. icon_rolleyes.gif
Even if it is "Grade 1" tiles, it is not all perfect, bound to find some tiles to be "imperfect", especially wall tiles. Sad to say usually these imperfection are only noticeable when the tiler apply/use the tiles (the imperfection are noticeable when it is placed side by side with the other tiles). sad.gif
Jo_da48
post Dec 4 2011, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 4 2011, 09:33 AM)
Renovation Updates

As mentioned before my contractor installed 2 water tank.
Extra one advantage, if water shortage in my area I have more water storage thus last longer.


Wah....can hold two water tank? have you also modified to get water direct from main pipes before use the water tank water too? than for sure the water tank will really spare smile.gif

SonyNony
post Dec 4 2011, 11:34 AM

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guys for any help or info bout reno u guys can msg me the best part is i can give consultation for free but u may buy a cup of teh tarik,would be please to help other to fill my time haha.oh btw im an architect with alil bit of interior experience.
TSphoenix69
post Dec 4 2011, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(Jo_da48 @ Dec 4 2011, 10:22 AM)
*
No la... Main go to tank..s, then only go to house hold piping. Bigger tank only. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 4 2011, 10:00 PM
kamion
post Dec 5 2011, 10:44 AM

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Nice bathroom wall tiles. It's exciting when you see it on the walls for the first time, isn't it? smile.gif
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post Dec 5 2011, 01:47 PM

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QUOTE(kamion @ Dec 5 2011, 10:44 AM)
Nice bathroom wall tiles. It's exciting when you see it on the walls for the first time, isn't it? smile.gif
*
hee hee biggrin.gif you are right
After seeing the tiles up, it gives the bathroom a totally new vibe.
Cant wait to take a bath there rclxm9.gif


Added on December 5, 2011, 2:21 pmNow Plaster ceiling has started, thus need to look for Downlights.

Made up my mind to use Round type vertical Downlight with energy savings bulb and ballast.

So far I visited Avalon(Puchong), Top Ten(Puchong) and Wong lighting(PJ and KL).

Avalon - only sell D/L with bulb without external ballast.

Top Ten - The D/L casing they have has very flimsy skeleton - paperlike.

Wong Lighting - Their higher end products Eliminuz (or something like that) only has horizontal type D/L .
-saw a sample of YET D/L being displayed , good sturdy casing, but when the actual product , latest batch is shown, it is the same flimsy D/L I saw in Top Ten...
Another option is YLI from Ipoh, slightly pricer but the reflector is sandblast type, not so bright reflection
Ask if can use YLI casing + YET reflector = they say "NO"

Still have not decided on which brand yet hmm.gif

Note : it seems that YET and Evenzzo are adik beradik, same product diffrent branding.


This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 5 2011, 02:21 PM
weikee
post Dec 5 2011, 02:50 PM

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Look like the ducting hole is bit too low. You plan to have plaster ceiling? and the plaster ceiling is below the ducting hole?

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post Dec 5 2011, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 5 2011, 02:50 PM)
Look like the ducting hole is bit too low. You plan to have plaster ceiling? and the plaster ceiling is below the ducting hole?

user posted image
*
Good point. Gonna ask my contractor. hmm.gif
Hey zheilwane, any comments ? blink.gif
kucingfight
post Dec 5 2011, 10:54 PM

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nice pics phoenix, we almost hav the same tiling n kitchen layout. I for once, thought it was mine hahha...
hole is alrite, i chose to conceal it with cabinet. iianm hole ~ 140cm from concrete top. hob & hood should have a diagram showing u the optimal dimension. im on fotile

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This post has been edited by kucingfight: Dec 5 2011, 11:01 PM
silverwave
post Dec 5 2011, 11:29 PM

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hi, just want to ask about your windows. Is it tempered glass?
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QUOTE(kucingfight @ Dec 5 2011, 10:54 PM)
nice pics phoenix, we almost hav the same tiling n kitchen layout. I for once, thought it was mine hahha...
hole is alrite, i chose to conceal it with cabinet. iianm hole ~ 140cm from concrete top. hob & hood should have a diagram showing u the optimal dimension. im on fotile

user posted image
*
Hey !!... whatcha doin at my house... ooopppsss sorry.. my mistake hee hee.. biggrin.gif
You have excellent taste thumbup.gif
Thanks for the clarification, I am on fotile too icon_rolleyes.gif
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post Dec 7 2011, 09:33 AM

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Renovation Update

Plaster Ceiling - Part 1

Now installing Plaster Ceiling

Plaster Ceiling... the raw material

Casting Plaster, Steel Frame, Plaster Boards, L-Box

user posted imageuser posted imageuser posted imageuser posted image

I use 34mm frame (thickest in the market) laugh.gif

user posted image



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post Dec 7 2011, 09:34 AM

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Plaster Ceiling - Part 2

Frame is installed

Plain boards frame, L-Box Frame

user posted imageuser posted image

Boards goes up

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Manhole

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Skimming (Finishing Touches) rclxm9.gif

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The terms I use is my own, feel free to correct me icon_idea.gif
weikee
post Dec 7 2011, 09:45 AM

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You never take out the old cement board on first floor?
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post Dec 7 2011, 10:00 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 7 2011, 09:45 AM)
You never take out the old cement board on first floor?
*
Nope. Wanna get a little double insulation from there. tongue.gif
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post Dec 7 2011, 10:33 AM

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to install solar power, how much your contractor quote you copper piping ? someone quote me 2.5k for 2 bathroom blink.gif
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post Dec 7 2011, 10:44 AM

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good luck bro !! hope tat everything done well. Don forget to post the done house here !!!
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post Dec 7 2011, 12:49 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 7 2011, 12:33 PM)
Renovation Update

Plaster Ceiling - Part 1

Now installing Plaster Ceiling

Plaster Ceiling... the raw material

Casting Plaster, Steel Frame, Plaster Boards, L-Box

user posted imageuser posted imageuser posted imageuser posted image

I use 34mm frame (thickest in the market)  laugh.gif

user posted image
*
Phoenix69,

what are the available frames in market & why 34 is preferred?
You still hav your old ceiling on? unsure.gif

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post Dec 7 2011, 05:47 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 7 2011, 09:34 AM)
Plaster Ceiling - Part 2

Frame is installed

Plain boards frame, L-Box Frame
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The terms I use is my own, feel free to correct me  icon_idea.gif
*
NO casting compound + fiber to bond the ceiling borad & ceiling Tee??

the fan hook only one hanger sweat.gif sweat.gif my plaster ceiling guy put 6 to hang the 2x3 timber whistling.gif


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post Dec 7 2011, 06:43 PM

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QUOTE(devil98 @ Dec 7 2011, 10:33 AM)
to install solar power, how much your contractor quote you copper piping ? someone quote me 2.5k for 2 bathroom  blink.gif
*
My contractor quote whole house piping regular + copper , 3 bathroon, kitchen, laundry area car porch area approx 8k


Added on December 7, 2011, 6:47 pm
QUOTE(KVReninem @ Dec 7 2011, 12:49 PM)
Phoenix69,

what are the available frames in market & why 34 is preferred?
You still hav your old ceiling on? unsure.gif
*
34mm is the thickest I could find. Thicker = stronger, flex.gif

I deliberately left the old ceiling layer on.
With 2 layer on the top roof ceiling, I hope to get a little extra insulation against the heat. tongue.gif


Added on December 7, 2011, 6:51 pm
QUOTE(skng03 @ Dec 7 2011, 05:47 PM)
NO casting compound + fiber to bond the ceiling borad & ceiling Tee??

the fan hook only one hanger sweat.gif  sweat.gif  my plaster ceiling guy put 6 to hang the 2x3 timber  whistling.gif
*
They have applied the glue thingy, just did not hang around to take the pictures. blush.gif
Wow , why did you wanna hang a 2x3 timber?? blink.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 7 2011, 06:51 PM
KVReninem
post Dec 7 2011, 07:30 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 7 2011, 09:43 PM)
My contractor quote whole house piping regular + copper , 3 bathroon, kitchen, laundry area car porch area approx 8k


Added on December 7, 2011, 6:47 pm

34mm is the thickest I could find. Thicker = stronger,  flex.gif

I deliberately left the old ceiling layer on.
With 2 layer on the top roof ceiling, I hope to get a little extra insulation against the heat.  tongue.gif


Added on December 7, 2011, 6:51 pm

They have applied the glue thingy, just did not hang around to take the pictures.  blush.gif
Wow , why did you wanna hang a 2x3 timber?? blink.gif
*
Hw much was the whole job? sweat.gif & what type of screw you are using?
sonerin
post Dec 7 2011, 10:34 PM

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Mine sharing how much you have spend so far?
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post Dec 7 2011, 10:50 PM

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I guess he at least spend 100K...

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post Dec 7 2011, 11:45 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 7 2011, 06:43 PM)



Added on December 7, 2011, 6:51 pm

They have applied the glue thingy, just did not hang around to take the pictures.  blush.gif
Wow , why did you wanna hang a 2x3 timber?? blink.gif
*
your fan hook also on a 2x3" timber mar shakehead.gif
gjohn
post Dec 8 2011, 09:22 AM

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wow... a lot things done to ur house now..
so when going to finish??
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post Dec 8 2011, 01:03 PM

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QUOTE(KVReninem @ Dec 7 2011, 07:30 PM)
Hw much was the whole job? sweat.gif & what type of screw you are using?
*
Approx 6++k liao sad.gif
Dunno what kinda screw, did not check . blink.gif


Added on December 8, 2011, 1:03 pm
QUOTE(sonerin @ Dec 7 2011, 10:34 PM)
Mine sharing how much you have spend so far?
*
A LOT !! cry.gif


Added on December 8, 2011, 1:08 pm
QUOTE(skng03 @ Dec 7 2011, 11:45 PM)
your fan hook also on a 2x3" timber mar shakehead.gif
*
Oh, you mean the fan hook base. laugh.gif
The Sifu is a chinese guy.
I like his "aura" he seems to know what he is doing.
So I'll leave it to him ler tongue.gif


Added on December 8, 2011, 1:09 pm
QUOTE(gjohn @ Dec 8 2011, 09:22 AM)
wow... a lot things done to ur house now..
so when going to finish??
*
Hopefully by January B4 CNY smile.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 8 2011, 10:53 PM
KVReninem
post Dec 8 2011, 01:28 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 8 2011, 04:03 PM)
Approx 6k liao  sad.gif
Dunno what kinda screw, did not check .  blink.gif


Added on December 8, 2011, 1:03 pm

A LOT !!  cry.gif


Added on December 8, 2011, 1:08 pm
Oh, you mean the fan hook base.  laugh.gif
The Sifu is a chinese guy.
I like his "aura" he seems to know what he is doing.
So I'll leave it to him ler  tongue.gif


Added on December 8, 2011, 1:09 pm

Hopefully by January B4 CNY  smile.gif
*
Oh, there is 2 type I heard. Normal screw that will rush sometimes in future & aluminium screw.

sonerin
post Dec 8 2011, 02:03 PM

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A lot, i assuming about 150k.
mckevin
post Dec 8 2011, 02:49 PM

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white brick eh.. is it cheaper ?
weikee
post Dec 8 2011, 02:49 PM

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If no furniture, 150k should be around there.

TV, A/C, Fan, Furniture, Cabinets, and other xxxxWares all is substantial.
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post Dec 9 2011, 06:37 PM

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QUOTE(KVReninem @ Dec 8 2011, 01:28 PM)
Oh, there is 2 type I heard. Normal screw that will rush sometimes in future & aluminium screw.
*
OK get the answer for this. Its GI screw, (Galvanized Iron). Rust protected.
Aluminum screw too soft, smile.gif


Added on December 9, 2011, 6:38 pm
QUOTE(sonerin @ Dec 8 2011, 02:03 PM)
A lot, i assuming about 150k.
*
Exceeded many moons ago cry.gif


Added on December 9, 2011, 6:40 pm
QUOTE(mckevin @ Dec 8 2011, 02:49 PM)
white brick eh.. is it cheaper ?
*
If you mean white brick = concrete brick vs red brick = clay bricks
White = cheaper nod.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 9 2011, 06:40 PM
leeyung
post Dec 10 2011, 01:37 AM

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wow bro, ur kitchen very grand man
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post Dec 10 2011, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(leeyung @ Dec 10 2011, 01:37 AM)
wow bro, ur kitchen very grand man
*
Thank you for your compliment. biggrin.gif
My kitchen is mainly made up with concrete and tiles but will have no cabinet. sad.gif
Kena wait for a while as now, wayyyy over budget. cry.gif
Maybe 1 year later (maybe by then lazy to get cabinet) tongue.gif


Added on December 13, 2011, 9:26 am

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 13 2011, 09:26 AM
TSphoenix69
post Dec 13 2011, 09:27 AM

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Renovation Updates

My Cat 5e cable. "Brand recommended by 2 IT professionals" brows.gif
user posted image

Finally bought my Downlights after a lot of research (ask ask ask), choosing (ask ask ask) and thought (ask ask ask). blush.gif

My 4" round PLC vertical downlight with JKR (loss 6w) + Sirim certified Ballast and Sandblast +Stripes combi reflectors.
All Made In Malaysia thumbup.gif
Toshiba Daylight Energy Savings Bulb 18Watt (not shown). -- 60 sets liao rclxm9.gif
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coconutzz
post Dec 13 2011, 09:52 AM

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Bro..sorry very noob question. Your UTP cable (Cat5e), the contractors will know what to do is it? as in they will know how to pull it and conceal?

Concealing into concrete?

Cos mine is gonna be Unifi cable..i wonder if they know what to do..
weikee
post Dec 13 2011, 09:59 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 13 2011, 09:27 AM)
Renovation Updates

My Cat 5e cable. "Brand recommended by 2 IT professionals"  brows.gif
user posted image
Ok lah this cable. I use this for my house, and still got about 1/2 box left. Tested all the network port, and terminated it. So far so good. Will wait for patch panel and do some cable management later when I have time.


Added on December 13, 2011, 10:00 am
QUOTE(coconutzz @ Dec 13 2011, 09:52 AM)
Bro..sorry very noob question. Your UTP cable (Cat5e), the contractors will know what to do is it? as in they will know how to pull it and conceal?

Concealing into concrete?

Cos mine is gonna be Unifi cable..i wonder if they know what to do..
*
Unifi is Fiber, your contractor won't be able to pull the cable. If you search this forum is been discuss before the recommendation.

This post has been edited by weikee: Dec 13 2011, 10:00 AM
adrianjc
post Dec 13 2011, 10:02 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 13 2011, 09:27 AM)
Renovation Updates

My Cat 5e cable. "Brand recommended by 2 IT professionals"  brows.gif
user posted image
Why didn't go for Cat 6 cables bro? I've laid Maxwell Cat 6 cables for my place. wink.gif
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post Dec 13 2011, 10:53 AM

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QUOTE(adrianjc @ Dec 13 2011, 10:02 AM)
Why didn't go for Cat 6 cables bro? I've laid Maxwell Cat 6 cables for my place. wink.gif
*
CAT 6 cable damm pricey .

After discussion with my 2 IT professional friends, hmm.gif

My Personal Conclusion (and self justification) sweat.gif
Good to have but you I will not be able to utilize the full capacity currently.
In future maybe... a BIG "MAYBE", yes, "BUT" by then maybe CAT 7 or above will supercede this. tongue.gif
So CAT 5e is more than sufficient. icon_rolleyes.gif
weikee
post Dec 13 2011, 11:03 AM

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QUOTE(adrianjc @ Dec 13 2011, 10:02 AM)
Why didn't go for Cat 6 cables bro? I've laid Maxwell Cat 6 cables for my place. wink.gif
*
For me it does not served the purpose of using Cat6, justify the price of the terminations equipments. For proper installation of Cat6, it can only bend to some degree, and good quality high bendable cable is not cheap (spline-less). After installation it need a full Flux testing before it can go up to 200Mhz with no/minimal CRC. For 1Gbps speed 100Mhz , a Cat 5e can also be achieved without problem.

But well, is personal preference.


Added on December 13, 2011, 11:08 am
QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 13 2011, 10:53 AM)
CAT 6 cable damm pricey .

After discussion with my 2 IT professional friends,  hmm.gif

My Personal Conclusion (and self justification) sweat.gif
Good to have but you I will not be able to utilize the full capacity currently.
In future maybe... a BIG "MAYBE",  yes, "BUT" by then maybe CAT 7 or above will supercede this. tongue.gif
So CAT 5e is more than sufficient.  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
For future proof, get Fiber lah biggrin.gif

I have some empty conduit that can run Single mode Fiber all the way up to the roof. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by weikee: Dec 13 2011, 11:08 AM
adrianjc
post Dec 13 2011, 11:21 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 13 2011, 11:03 AM)
For me it does not served the purpose of using Cat6, justify the price of the terminations equipments. For proper installation of Cat6, it can only bend to some degree, and good quality high bendable cable is not cheap (spline-less). After installation it need a full Flux testing before it can go up to 200Mhz with no/minimal CRC. For 1Gbps speed 100Mhz , a Cat 5e can also be achieved without problem.

But well, is personal preference.
Yup, heard that from my friend too. Am getting my friend who's a network engineer to troubleshoot and do the flux testing for me.
Am planning more for network usage with network TV for future once the price has dropped somewhat to capitalize on OTT and console VOD streaming capabilities in future.

These items usually puts a heavy load on the network and rather get higher rated cables to support this. Otherwise potong stim only when everything has been set up then the video streaming stalls.

weikee
post Dec 13 2011, 11:34 AM

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QUOTE(adrianjc @ Dec 13 2011, 11:21 AM)
Yup, heard that from my friend too. Am getting my friend who's a network engineer to troubleshoot and do the flux testing for me.
Am planning more for network usage with network TV for future once the price has dropped somewhat to capitalize on OTT and console VOD streaming capabilities in future.

These items usually puts a heavy load on the network and rather get higher rated cables to support this. Otherwise potong stim only when everything has been set up then the video streaming stalls.
*
I wonder what streaming can you get with 10Gbps? I can't hardly find anything capable of 1 Gbps.

Bottleneck is not always the cables Be it Cat5e, or Cat6. If the speed have reach 1Gbps, the bottleneck is on equipment throughput like H.disk read write, switching capability on your switch(es), router and noise. That is where the equipments like Cisco, 3Com, HP come in place.

Getting Cat6 is like having a high speed tires, but the engine, car design, road and traffic is many other factors.
coconutzz
post Dec 13 2011, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 13 2011, 11:34 AM)
I wonder what streaming can you get with 10Gbps? I can't hardly find anything capable of 1 Gbps.

Bottleneck is not always the cables Be it Cat5e, or Cat6. If the speed have reach 1Gbps, the bottleneck is on equipment throughput like H.disk read write, switching capability on your switch(es), router and noise.  That is where the equipments like Cisco, 3Com, HP come in place.

Getting Cat6 is like having a high speed tires, but the engine, car design, road and traffic is many other factors.
*
Agree bro..and most of the bottle neck comes from ISPs ... , that what ever it is, be it Copper (eg Streamyx) or Fibre-to-the Home (e.g Unifi, Maxis HOME)

These are all "Shared Bandwidth"....hence if usage is High within you area, especially if there are a lot of P2Ps going on...habis la..your performance will be affected...at the mo, Unifi's subscription rate is still low..hence the performance is good.

This post has been edited by coconutzz: Dec 13 2011, 11:40 AM
adrianjc
post Dec 13 2011, 04:16 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 13 2011, 11:34 AM)
I wonder what streaming can you get with 10Gbps? I can't hardly find anything capable of 1 Gbps.

Bottleneck is not always the cables Be it Cat5e, or Cat6. If the speed have reach 1Gbps, the bottleneck is on equipment throughput like H.disk read write, switching capability on your switch(es), router and noise.  That is where the equipments like Cisco, 3Com, HP come in place.

Getting Cat6 is like having a high speed tires, but the engine, car design, road and traffic is many other factors.
*
Agreed. Logic is since it's going in together with my wiring my as well go for Cat 6.
Malaysian ISP speeds are far from desirable... but much better than dial-up days.

I remember the days of wanting to use MIRC past bedtime during school days and having to muffle the sound of the modem connecting. Hahahahaha... how times have changed.
weikee
post Dec 13 2011, 04:33 PM

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QUOTE(adrianjc @ Dec 13 2011, 04:16 PM)
Agreed. Logic is since it's going in together with my wiring my as well go for Cat 6.
Malaysian ISP speeds are far from desirable... but much better than dial-up days.

I remember the days of wanting to use MIRC past bedtime during school days and having to muffle the sound of the modem connecting. Hahahahaha... how times have changed.
*
Last time when i use jaring dial-up, the local call number is per call, not per-min. And I can go online from 10pm till 5am smile.gif

Than came this Stupid TM making call charged per min. There go my BBS.
ozak
post Dec 13 2011, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 13 2011, 11:34 AM)
I wonder what streaming can you get with 10Gbps? I can't hardly find anything capable of 1 Gbps.

Bottleneck is not always the cables Be it Cat5e, or Cat6. If the speed have reach 1Gbps, the bottleneck is on equipment throughput like H.disk read write, switching capability on your switch(es), router and noise.  That is where the equipments like Cisco, 3Com, HP come in place.

Getting Cat6 is like having a high speed tires, but the engine, car design, road and traffic is many other factors.
*
Streaming HD movie file? Specially bluray file. If you stream from your server somewhere to your media in the hall, I guess Cat6 is require.
adrianjc
post Dec 13 2011, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 13 2011, 05:53 PM)
Streaming HD movie file? Specially bluray file. If you stream from your server somewhere to your media in the hall, I guess Cat6 is require.
*
Definitely blu-ray quality streaming mar... thats why we all want Unifi, no?
My incoming for Unifi sits under my staircase but my desktop/server sits upstairs in the study. Am planning to stream through LAN.
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post Dec 13 2011, 06:16 PM

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QUOTE(adrianjc @ Dec 13 2011, 06:09 PM)
Definitely blu-ray quality streaming mar... thats why we all want Unifi, no?
My incoming for Unifi sits under my staircase but my desktop/server sits upstairs in the study. Am planning to stream through LAN.
*
Unifi also not fast enough to stream bluray.

I mean stream from your PC or NAS in your room to your big TV in the hall. That probaly require CAT6 cable.
weikee
post Dec 13 2011, 06:40 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 13 2011, 06:16 PM)
Unifi also not fast enough to stream bluray.

I mean stream from your PC or NAS in your room to your big TV in the hall. That probaly require CAT6 cable.
*
You sure about this? I don't think you can find any high transmission and throughput device that can take about 5 gigabyte of data per mins, and that is running on 1gbps which cat5e are capable of. To utilized cat6 is on 10gbps. You won't get any affordable 10gbps equipment for residential use. And most nas for residential is only 1gbps speed. Better invest on high throughput switc you see much better result. Network and IT is my bread and butter. Anything faster most industry use fiber between equipment and SAN some do use iscsi via LAN but that all on commercial use. Nas is just for low throughput usage.


Added on December 13, 2011, 6:43 pm
QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 13 2011, 06:16 PM)
Unifi also not fast enough to stream bluray.

I mean stream from your PC or NAS in your room to your big TV in the hall. That probaly require CAT6 cable.
*
Talk about fast, in Tokyo office we have 100mbps line. I can download a 4 gig DVD in just less than 8 mins, but the equipment hang for another few mins because the h.disk write speed just can't take it.

This post has been edited by weikee: Dec 13 2011, 06:43 PM
coconutzz
post Dec 13 2011, 06:54 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 13 2011, 06:40 PM)
You sure about this? I don't think you can find any high transmission and throughput device that can take about 5 gigabyte of data per mins, and that is running on 1gbps which cat5e are capable of. To utilized cat6 is on 10gbps. You won't get any affordable 10gbps equipment for residential use. And most nas for residential is only 1gbps speed. Better invest on high throughput switc you see much better result. Network and IT is my bread and butter. Anything faster most industry use fiber between equipment and SAN some do use iscsi via LAN but that all on commercial use. Nas is just for low throughput usage.


Added on December 13, 2011, 6:43 pm

Talk about fast, in Tokyo office we have 100mbps line. I can download a 4 gig DVD in just less than 8 mins, but the equipment hang for another  few mins because the h.disk write speed just can't take it.
*
Bro..no need tokyo wei..at my office...I m getting about 80-100Mbps average...did try a 2Gb file...i think done in 3-4 mins if I remembered correctly...legitimate demo file tongue.gif
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post Dec 13 2011, 07:31 PM

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QUOTE(coconutzz @ Dec 13 2011, 06:54 PM)
Bro..no need tokyo wei..at my office...I m getting about 80-100Mbps average...did try a 2Gb file...i think done in 3-4 mins if I remembered correctly...legitimate demo file  tongue.gif
*
Not to showoff la. But to explain high speed is just speed but bottomneck is on equipment to. I rather have dedicated 2mbps line than so call fiber speed.

We don't know what is streamyx or unify share ratio and the never publish.

Hmm I think we oot too far.
ozak
post Dec 13 2011, 11:00 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 13 2011, 06:40 PM)
You sure about this? I don't think you can find any high transmission and throughput device that can take about 5 gigabyte of data per mins, and that is running on 1gbps which cat5e are capable of. To utilized cat6 is on 10gbps. You won't get any affordable 10gbps equipment for residential use. And most nas for residential is only 1gbps speed. Better invest on high throughput switc you see much better result. Network and IT is my bread and butter. Anything faster most industry use fiber between equipment and SAN some do use iscsi via LAN but that all on commercial use. Nas is just for low throughput usage.
I have some bluray file in my NAS. But my player can't play it. So I can't confirm it. But my stream equipment is just cat5 and N. Thaught cat6 should be ok.

Anyway I did try some movie file similiar to bluray which is 25-45gb also. Stream ok, but my player running at max with some jerk. Old player. sad.gif
weikee
post Dec 13 2011, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 13 2011, 11:00 PM)
I have some bluray file in my NAS. But my player can't play it. So I can't confirm it. But my stream equipment is just cat5 and N. Thaught cat6 should be ok.

Anyway I did try some movie file similiar to bluray which is 25-45gb also. Stream ok, but my player running at max with some jerk. Old player. sad.gif
*
That is not network problem, is processing.
ozak
post Dec 13 2011, 11:30 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 13 2011, 11:05 PM)
That is not network problem, is processing.
*
Yup. The old sigma chipset in the player can't handle it. Hope it spoll fast and can get a better 1. He...

So that is possible to stream a bluray/hd file from NAS/pc if some upgrade done. hmm.gif
scouser7
post Dec 14 2011, 11:17 AM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 13 2011, 09:27 AM)
Renovation Updates

My Cat 5e cable. "Brand recommended by 2 IT professionals"  brows.gif
user posted image

Finally bought my Downlights after a lot of research (ask ask ask), choosing (ask ask ask) and thought (ask ask ask).  blush.gif

My 4" round PLC vertical downlight with JKR (loss 6w) + Sirim certified Ballast and Sandblast +Stripes combi reflectors.
All Made In Malaysia  thumbup.gif
Toshiba Daylight Energy Savings Bulb 18Watt (not shown). -- 60 sets liao  rclxm9.gif
user posted imageuser posted image
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got made in msia meh? can i know where you buy the downlights and how much for each item? TQ
TSphoenix69
post Dec 15 2011, 09:38 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Dec 14 2011, 11:17 AM)
got made in msia meh? can i know where you buy the downlights and how much for each item? TQ
*
Got made in Malaysia lah thumbup.gif
http://www.yli-ind.com.my/
YLI in Ipoh liao rclxm9.gif
Got to know about the brand when I was researching at Wong Lighting.
It is pricier than the regular YET and EVENZZO brand.
Most shops do not stock this brand.
I got it at Puchong.
Ten-Gro Lighting. (they do not stock-you hafta wait)
Wong Lighting have stock but pricier.
Price depends on configuration.
cool2.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 15 2011, 10:19 PM
sonerin
post Dec 15 2011, 09:43 PM

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One advice, if you like to watch movie a lot you need to make sure your plaster ceiling don't vibrate
scouser7
post Dec 15 2011, 09:45 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 15 2011, 09:38 PM)
Got made in Malaysia lah  thumbup.gif
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2021842&hl=
YLI in Ipoh liao  rclxm9.gif
Got to know about the brand when I was researching at Wong Lighting.
It is pricier than the regular YET and EVENZZO brand.
Most shops do not stock this brand.
I got it at Puchong.
Ten-Gro Lighting. (they do not stock-you hafta wait)
Wong Lighting have stock but pricier.
Price depends on configuration.
cool2.gif
*
Bro, the web page link is salah...that wan grill not YLI whistling.gif
TSphoenix69
post Dec 15 2011, 10:20 PM

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QUOTE(scouser7 @ Dec 15 2011, 09:45 PM)
Bro, the web page link is salah...that wan grill not YLI  whistling.gif
*
Corrected liao icon_rolleyes.gif

http://www.yli-ind.com.my/



This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 15 2011, 10:32 PM
TSphoenix69
post Dec 15 2011, 10:35 PM

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Renovation Update

My Completed Pergola rclxm9.gif

user posted imageuser posted image


Skim Coating my walls

Apply Skim Glue - this grey thingy

user posted image

Applying Skim Coat

user posted image

External wall finishing. Cement nice nice liao tongue.gif

user posted image

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 16 2011, 12:42 PM
ozak
post Dec 15 2011, 11:09 PM

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QUOTE(sonerin @ Dec 15 2011, 09:43 PM)
One advice, if you like to watch movie a lot you need to make sure your plaster ceiling don't vibrate
*
Plaster ceiling drop down. tongue.gif how many inch woofer using?
leeyung
post Dec 15 2011, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 15 2011, 11:09 PM)
Plaster ceiling drop down. tongue.gif  how many inch woofer using?
*
I guess it must be the Sony 22000 Watt woofer tongue.gif
weikee
post Dec 15 2011, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(leeyung @ Dec 15 2011, 11:12 PM)
I guess it must be the Sony 22000 Watt woofer tongue.gif
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22kWatt, you need to have a seat belt when watching movie.
leeyung
post Dec 16 2011, 12:11 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 15 2011, 11:57 PM)
22kWatt, you need to have a seat belt when watching movie.
*
thumbup.gif 100% guaranteed seat belt needed, test it during fair in damn huge hall, I still can feel the "ohm" when I stand 20fts away from the damn woofer, still can feel the vibration, I remember it is labelled with 22000Watt, in Black frame and red membrane one
0126910937
post Dec 16 2011, 12:14 AM

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First off i would like to say u have a very nice renovation gooin on there, and i dont wanna sound like potong stim but 1 thing i wanna ask TS -
Do u feel comfortably safe to post so in detail in pics of ur renovation work out in the open?...
U not afraid some people might use it to - u know - do something bad...
skng03
post Dec 16 2011, 01:21 AM

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QUOTE(0126910937 @ Dec 16 2011, 12:14 AM)
First off i would like to say u have a very nice renovation gooin on there, and i dont wanna sound like potong stim but 1 thing i wanna ask TS -
Do u feel comfortably safe to post so in detail in pics of ur renovation work out in the open?...
U not afraid some people might use it to - u know - do something bad...
*
u know wat, our police chief said our country is one of the safest in the world.. whistling.gif whistling.gif

personally, i don't dare to post the full facade & location in open forum nod.gif
weikee
post Dec 16 2011, 07:36 AM

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QUOTE(0126910937 @ Dec 16 2011, 12:14 AM)
First off i would like to say u have a very nice renovation gooin on there, and i dont wanna sound like potong stim but 1 thing i wanna ask TS -
Do u feel comfortably safe to post so in detail in pics of ur renovation work out in the open?...
U not afraid some people might use it to - u know - do something bad...
*
Actually why not comfortable? You not going to post where the key are place, what type of lock using, the household items inside, where the alarm system be?

Sometime passerby know more detail, contractor know more detail. And postman also know more info that what we see in the photos.
ozak
post Dec 16 2011, 09:14 AM

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QUOTE(0126910937 @ Dec 16 2011, 12:14 AM)
First off i would like to say u have a very nice renovation gooin on there, and i dont wanna sound like potong stim but 1 thing i wanna ask TS -
Do u feel comfortably safe to post so in detail in pics of ur renovation work out in the open?...
U not afraid some people might use it to - u know - do something bad...
*
We have to beware of you liau. tongue.gif mostly ppl here don't show where they stay. Just show the detail and overall renovation and design. And this renovation and design have hundred thousand of similar in Malaysia.

People here might use it to copy only. No others bad thinking hopefully. Sharing is caring. smile.gif
ezonemy
post Dec 16 2011, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Dec 16 2011, 09:14 AM)
We have to beware of you liau. tongue.gif  mostly ppl here don't show where they stay. Just show the detail and overall renovation and design. And this renovation and design have hundred thousand of similar in Malaysia.

People here might use it to copy only. No others bad thinking hopefully. Sharing is caring. smile.gif
*
well said rclxms.gif
TSphoenix69
post Dec 16 2011, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(sonerin @ Dec 15 2011, 09:43 PM)
One advice, if you like to watch movie a lot you need to make sure your plaster ceiling don't vibrate
*
No more money for woofer liao.
Use cheap 2nd hand old boxy type TV ler sad.gif


Added on December 16, 2011, 12:53 pm
QUOTE(weikee @ Dec 16 2011, 07:36 AM)
Actually why not comfortable? You not going to post where the key are place, what type of lock using, the household items inside, where the alarm system be?

Sometime passerby know more detail, contractor know more detail. And postman also know more info that what we see in the photos.
*
Exactly my thoughts.. icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by phoenix69: Dec 16 2011, 12:53 PM
coconutzz
post Dec 16 2011, 03:10 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Dec 16 2011, 12:48 PM)
No more money for woofer liao.
Use cheap 2nd hand old boxy type TV ler  sad.gif
Truly understand your strain on financial bro..I m gonna be feeling that after cny i guess...once my plan approved by the council

leeyung
post Dec 16 2011, 07:17 PM

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I learnt a lot from this forum because all willing to share! as weikee said, that is not a big deal, same for me, I wish to share out mine as well after I settled down biggrin.gif but very minor reno only la brows.gif
sonerin
post Dec 16 2011, 10:00 PM

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Just a general question, is it worth to buy 2nd hand house in quite bad condition then have to spend hundreds of thousand to reno

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