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 Discussion about watercooling and the results, Version 2

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Doom
post Nov 12 2007, 05:23 PM

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@MetalZone

I had this problem when using short water barb, I can't clamp the barb using hose clamp coz the distance between two barbs on Apogee GT just too tight ..

It leak gao gao I mean really a lot of fluid dripping all over the place so in the end I used back the swiftech barb ... I could uses those short barb on my radiator only as I could clamp it tight enough to prevent any leakage .

btw all my barbs is in 1/2" size ..

I'm interested to change my current block coz it's performing at 32c during idle and 42c load .. even with the as low as 15c of ambient temperature here .. not interested to bowed it ..coz if the new block perform better I would just sell Apogee GT away ...

So my question would be would a longer barb has lower leak chances, coz the swiftech plastic barb works brilliantly even without clamp, however on the safe side I do apply clamp on it ..

and would the use of zip tip enough to hold the tubes from leakage coz the distance between the barbs just so tight ..

This post has been edited by Doom: Nov 12 2007, 05:46 PM
LExus65
post Nov 12 2007, 06:50 PM

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wah ambient 15oc Doom......... very nice wor....... but bad for you though haha....

thx for the info again metalzone, i will take note of it.... actually i was planning those hose permanent attached in mind, (asustek low cost cooling like) i like once the hose are attached it is leakage free yet flexible enough to be move around for changing processor or something.

anyone have experince in doin that ?
LExus65
post Nov 12 2007, 06:50 PM

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double post.......deleted

This post has been edited by LExus65: Nov 13 2007, 03:27 PM
IcEMoCHa
post Nov 12 2007, 08:06 PM

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lolx...Alphacool nexXXxos Xtreme III can achieve those temp ar?... Im getting them...
MetalZone
post Nov 12 2007, 08:39 PM

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@Doom

I know what you mean. The barbs are so close together on the Storm, Apogee/GT you cannot clamp the stock Swiftech plastic clamps side by side. The only way is to stagger them which is only feasible on the stock polypropylene barbs. If you're using shorter chrome or nickel plated brass barbs, fatter clamps (like the plastic ones provided by Swiftech) aren't useful anymore. Thinner clamping methods will fit, ie. zip ties (you can use two in a row pulled really tight and it'll work pretty well), worm drive clamps, or the ring style clamps.

Here's a pic of the worm drive clamp, fits with no problems:
user posted image

You may still be able to get away without clamping if your pump is not an iwaki RD30 or your waterblock ain't one of the restrictive ones like the Storm, NexXxos XP, MP-05 SP LE... if not sure leak kao kao wan. lol. laugh.gif
speaking from personal experience testing out a 6m head pressure pump with the Storm, I had to really clamp down the worm drives to stop them from leaking. sweat.gif
almostthere
post Nov 12 2007, 08:52 PM

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Well if you're on the cheap, I'd suggest those vinyl tubings by ACE hardware. Quite thick walls but a bit stiff but trust me, it won't kink even past 90 degree bends. About RM3.50 a metre. And I agree with mwetalzone about the clamps. I had to stagger my clamps in order to secure my tubes. Speaking of tubes LOL I haven't fitted on the DD hi-flo barbs yet.
sHawTY
post Nov 12 2007, 08:57 PM

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QUOTE(almostthere @ Nov 12 2007, 08:52 PM)
Well if you're on the cheap, I'd suggest those vinyl tubings by ACE hardware. Quite thick walls but a bit stiff but trust me, it won't kink even past 90 degree bends. About RM3.50 a metre. And I agree with mwetalzone about the clamps. I had to stagger my clamps in order to secure my tubes. Speaking of tubes LOL I haven't fitted on the DD hi-flo barbs yet.
Diorang dah takde stock untuk model tu.
Aku dah rembat semua. laugh.gif

This post has been edited by sHawTY: Nov 12 2007, 08:58 PM
amd_hardcore
post Nov 12 2007, 09:27 PM

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abang shawty...

x tunjuk gambar wc ko ke???

tringin nak tgk abg shawty punyer setup...
almostthere
post Nov 12 2007, 11:13 PM

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bogel punya setup la tuh....takya citer panjang2
sHawTY
post Nov 13 2007, 12:36 AM

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QUOTE(almostthere @ Nov 12 2007, 11:13 PM)
bogel punya setup la tuh....takya citer panjang2
Aku dah pakai casing la mangkuk!

amd_hardcore, camera aku kena culik ngan abang aku.
Nanti dia pulangkan aku tangkap gambar biggrin.gif
LExus65
post Nov 13 2007, 03:33 PM

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yalor almost forgot shawyt not bogel anymore.......... opps not shawty ah.....his beloved rig hehe.........

faster show, i want to see how u do ur rig. Learn from sifu a bit
Doom
post Nov 13 2007, 08:20 PM

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@MetalZone

Thanks for the photo, seems like have to be use the worm drive clamps..

I used it on the short barb for my radiator and it really doesn't leaked at all ..

but I find it hard to use it on MCW60 with short barb ... the tube just won't fit nicely like it is on the longer barb ... there leakage happened easily ...

btw ... back to my major concern, a longer or shorter barb would be better ??

and will my CPU temperature goes down by changing the block ??

thank in advance men ..
HaHaNoCluE
post Nov 14 2007, 12:44 AM

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i uses zipties for my apogee gt... 4mm type... but till now no leasking... i'm using the ori swiftech barbs btw...
Doom
post Nov 15 2007, 01:14 AM

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Original barb is long type and it works brilliantly .. no leak just need small zip ties will do fine ..

My problem was I tried to use shorter chrome water barb ..

but it leaked gao gao .. and very hard to secure it from leaking ..


MetalZone
post Nov 15 2007, 02:29 AM

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Ah I know what you mean about the MCW60... the mounting plate is blocking the clamp from reaching all the way in with 3/4" OD tubing. I'm experiencing the same thing here also. Only half the barb gets clamped at the tip. I'm using the spring-ring type of clamp with EK barbs, no leaking at all. But yea I know that sucks. Swiftech needs to have more design foresight when it comes to clamping with 3/4" OD tubing. It's the same mistakes repeated.

Performance wise, absolutely no difference between a short and long barb of course. It's just preference, and whether it works for you.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Nov 15 2007, 02:32 AM
lichyetan
post Nov 15 2007, 02:58 AM

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i think those long plactic barbs provide more secure holding to the tubings hence wont leak easily, while for those chrome barbs, we gotto secure it with hose clamp before bending the tubes to prevent leakage. Frm what i've learned, when installing vga block which using chrome barbs on to vga cards, i usually secure the tubings with clamp before bending the tube to attach it onto cpu block, if i done it without clamps on the vga block, leak sure happen.
Doom
post Nov 15 2007, 06:04 AM

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ic ic .. like u said .. .a longer barb is easier to install then ...

shorter barb required more attention .. .and the design of MCW60 really make it difficult to clamp properly..

guess I should look for longer chrome barb if I would want to replace the plastic barb ... but so far the plastic barb works better ..

I would leave it .. .concentrate on getting a better CPU block instead..
lichyetan
post Nov 15 2007, 08:31 PM

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haha, but chrome barbs do look nicer in my opinion, LOL... if using 7/16ID 5/8OD tubings, those chrome barbs works great, can even secure a tubing without clamp if u dare to try it...
Doom
post Nov 15 2007, 08:40 PM

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yah it does which make me spent to get two extra pairs ..

but in the end doesn't works easily on my blocks ..

so still stuck with the old plastic barb...


MetalZone
post Nov 15 2007, 08:57 PM

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with 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tubings, you can clamp all the way in on the MCW60.

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