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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V4, Anticipating D700 replacement !

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pikipiki
post Feb 1 2011, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(KTCY @ Feb 1 2011, 05:31 AM)
And they don't blame themselves for buying low end camera which cost RM 9.90 whistling.gif
Apparently, the slow focus isn't the lens problem. Is your bloody camera problem. It focus fast enough on D700 and above series. Reason ? Blame Nikon for not giving better AF module in your low end camera laugh.gif
*
Mind your language bro and please don't try to get things personal. icon_rolleyes.gif

I'm being objective and fair here. How is it a camera problem when almost the same price Sigma can provide a better deal? yeah yeah you got the D700 which got no blood while ours are all full of blood as you put it but that is besides the point. What we consumers want is to get the best deal with the lowest cost. Also, they got their opinion for not enjoying the nikon 1.4G AF speed and so be it. Don't get it why you should be so raged about it. Calm down gentleman.

If you are gonna start picking things as such there are endless debates here, plus, hey, this ain't just a nikon d700 discussion site eh. The lower end Nikon model ain't cheap and frankly ain't that bad too. Discuss objectively and learn to respect even tho you're in the internet bro. smile.gif

eddy230379
post Feb 1 2011, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(Andy214 @ Feb 1 2011, 10:43 AM)
using small aperture is harder to tell back/front focus because the depth of field is covered more.

Are you shooting in low light?
Are you using external flash? If yes, is the flash AF assist lamp turned on?
If no flash, is the on camera AF Assist lamp turned on?

When the focus is locking on, is it lock-on instantly or does it judder a little while locking on?
*
tried it in a brightly lit room ... AF assist light is on ... aperture f/1.4 ... it locks quickly but after snapping & when see the results its very clear that it has back focus ... tried the same test with my Nikkor 16-85 & it passed with flying colours ...
Andy214
post Feb 1 2011, 11:19 AM

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QUOTE(eddy230379 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:13 AM)
tried it in a brightly lit room ... AF assist light is on ... aperture f/1.4 ... it locks quickly but after snapping & when see the results its very clear that it has back focus ... tried the same test with my Nikkor 16-85 & it passed with flying colours ...
*
Did the AF assist lamp fired? Try turn off the AF Assit lamp and try again?

At aperture f/1.4, slight movement (not noticeable) will also move the focus depth/plane. The DOF is very shallow, and also depend on your distance.
16-85 have smaller aperture.

Try shooting at f/2 or f/2.8? Shoot closer to your subject and re-check. If you have a Nikon DSLR friend, try mount the lens on his/her camera and you try it then let your friend try it.

celciuz
post Feb 1 2011, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(Andy214 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:19 AM)
Did the AF assist lamp fired? Try turn off the AF Assit lamp and try again?

At aperture f/1.4, slight movement (not noticeable) will also move the focus depth/plane. The DOF is very shallow, and also depend on your distance.
16-85 have smaller aperture.

Try shooting at f/2 or f/2.8? Shoot closer to your subject and re-check. If you have a Nikon DSLR friend, try mount the lens on his/her camera and you try it then let your friend try it.
*
Not that critical actually, I focus and recompose with my 85 f/1.4G.

AF is still more or less there. Should be even easier with a 50mm.
eddy230379
post Feb 1 2011, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(Andy214 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:19 AM)
Did the AF assist lamp fired? Try turn off the AF Assit lamp and try again?

At aperture f/1.4, slight movement (not noticeable) will also move the focus depth/plane. The DOF is very shallow, and also depend on your distance.
16-85 have smaller aperture.

Try shooting at f/2 or f/2.8? Shoot closer to your subject and re-check. If you have a Nikon DSLR friend, try mount the lens on his/her camera and you try it then let your friend try it.
*
i did try it out with my friend's D90 as well ... same results ... without AF assist light also tried ... the thing is i am testing it out with a tripod and remote shutter so that rules out hand shake ... from aperture f/1.4 till f/4 every picture is back focused ... another thing is that it will back focus more if the subject is 5 meters & away ... rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by eddy230379: Feb 1 2011, 11:37 AM
celciuz
post Feb 1 2011, 11:41 AM

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^ If you talking about far subject it back focus right?

That one are you using your center AF? or using the sides?
TSKTCY
post Feb 1 2011, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(pikipiki @ Feb 1 2011, 10:56 AM)
Mind your language bro and please don't try to get things personal.  icon_rolleyes.gif

I'm being objective and fair here. How is it a camera problem when almost the same price Sigma can provide a better deal? yeah yeah you got the D700 which got no blood while ours are all full of blood as you put it but that is besides the point. What we consumers want is to get the best deal with the lowest cost. Also, they got their opinion for not enjoying the nikon 1.4G AF speed and so be it. Don't get it why you should be so raged about it. Calm down gentleman.

If you are gonna start picking things as such there are endless debates here, plus, hey, this ain't just a nikon d700 discussion site eh. The lower end Nikon model ain't cheap and frankly ain't that bad too. Discuss objectively and learn to respect even tho you're in the internet bro.  smile.gif
*
First of all, my post wasn't referring to you at all and you're the one who reply to my post. See the person I quote. sleep.gif

Secondly, I don't own D700. Check my photo EXIF and you should know well. If you don't let me tell you here, I'm using entry level DSLR of NIKON only !

I'm not even raged. You're the one who reply with raged. I was laughing my ass out when they comparing the focus speed. Does it really matter after all ? Will you actually suffer with micro speed different of focusing ? doh.gif
C'mon ! Be practical.

Who is the one ain't respect here. Refer back your post and come back to talk again.


QUOTE(pikipiki @ Feb 1 2011, 05:25 AM)
Yeah, no one would give a damn if that 50mm is selling RM9.90. Unfortunately it is not and the price is about 1500++. For that kinda price I don't see any harm in criticizing or being little harsh in demanding a good product. 1500++ is not a small amount to most of us and of course we want very buck well spend.
*
Andy214
post Feb 1 2011, 11:47 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Feb 1 2011, 11:28 AM)
Not that critical actually, I focus and recompose with my 85 f/1.4G.

AF is still more or less there. Should be even easier with a 50mm.
*
True, I think it depends on the person, but for people who are not used to wide aperture especially first timers or new to DSLR, it's critical. In other forums, you'll find many complain about front/back focus, when most of the time, it's because of the slight movement or how they hold and snap photo, it's like not Point and Shoot, which is really point and shoot; With DSLR, you need to hold it more properly and also when pressing and after pressing the shutter. Some people, moved the camera during or RIGHT after pressing the shutter which can caused OOF images or shift the focus plane/depth.

Of course, I'm not trying to deny the problems, but to help people to identify first.


QUOTE(eddy230379 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:36 AM)
i did try it out with my friend's D90 as well ... same results ... without AF assist light also tried ... the thing is i am testing it out with a tripod and remote shutter so that rules out hand shake ... from aperture f/1.4 till f/4 every picture is back focused ... another thing is that it will back focus more if the subject is 5 meters & away ...    rclxub.gif
*
But previously you tested there is no such problem? It the lens dirty? etc?

I'm not sure if a lens can have front/back focus issue overtime, if yes, then everytime need to send back for adjustment/tuning? Or something happened?

Kent3888
post Feb 1 2011, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Feb 1 2011, 11:28 AM)
Not that critical actually, I focus and recompose with my 85 f/1.4G.

AF is still more or less there. Should be even easier with a 50mm.
*
If I use spot metering, let's say I use middle point to focus at the eyes, then recompose, the mid point went to somewhere darker, so eventually the pic will b overexposed right?
eddy230379
post Feb 1 2011, 11:58 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Feb 1 2011, 11:41 AM)
^ If you talking about far subject it back focus right?

That one are you using your center AF? or using the sides?
*
i use the center AF point ... cos thats the most accurate & sharpest as i was told ...


Added on February 1, 2011, 12:00 pm
QUOTE(Andy214 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:47 AM)
True, I think it depends on the person, but for people who are not used to wide aperture especially first timers or new to DSLR, it's critical. In other forums, you'll find many complain about front/back focus, when most of the time, it's because of the slight movement or how they hold and snap photo, it's like not Point and Shoot, which is really point and shoot; With DSLR, you need to hold it more properly and also when pressing and after pressing the shutter. Some people, moved the camera during or RIGHT after pressing the shutter which can caused OOF images or shift the focus plane/depth.

Of course, I'm not trying to deny the problems, but to help people to identify first.
But previously you tested there is no such problem? It the lens dirty? etc?

I'm not sure if a lens can have front/back focus issue overtime, if yes, then everytime need to send back for adjustment/tuning? Or something happened?
*
i only used it on the day i bought it ... after that till last friday it was in my dry box ... took out to shoot on saturday and everything was back focused ...

This post has been edited by eddy230379: Feb 1 2011, 12:00 PM
TSKTCY
post Feb 1 2011, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:58 AM)
If I use spot metering, let's say I use middle point to focus at the eyes, then recompose, the mid point went to somewhere darker, so eventually the pic will b overexposed right?
*
Spot metering means that the sensor will take calculation on the center of the object you focus. And yes, overexposed
celciuz
post Feb 1 2011, 12:01 PM

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QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:58 AM)
If I use spot metering, let's say I use middle point to focus at the eyes, then recompose, the mid point went to somewhere darker, so eventually the pic will b overexposed right?
*
In that case, you set for when you half press it does AF lock and AE lock. Then metering won't change as you recompose.
Kent3888
post Feb 1 2011, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Feb 1 2011, 12:01 PM)
In that case, you set for when you half press it does AF lock and AE lock. Then metering won't change as you recompose.
*
I see.... using the AF&AE lock button when the focus locks on? Then recompose n click the shutter to capture only?

Haha.... Then 39 or 51 AF point oso useless, juz for show only lor doh.gif

This post has been edited by Kent3888: Feb 1 2011, 12:11 PM
celciuz
post Feb 1 2011, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Feb 1 2011, 12:07 PM)
I see.... using the AF&AE lock button when the focus locks on? Then recompose n click the shutter to capture only?
*
I forgot how is it by default haha. I usually configure if I really need to do that it will AE-L when I half press.


Added on February 1, 2011, 12:16 pm
QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Feb 1 2011, 12:07 PM)
I see.... using the AF&AE lock button when the focus locks on? Then recompose n click the shutter to capture only?

Haha.... Then 39 or 51 AF point oso useless, juz for show only lor  doh.gif
*
Got, the 51AF points to be used when you need precise location where to focus especially for sports. Still shoot with single point, but its more flexible than just the 11 fixed points. You can use the points in between and all without recomposing.

This post has been edited by celciuz: Feb 1 2011, 12:16 PM
Andy214
post Feb 1 2011, 12:18 PM

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QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:58 AM)
If I use spot metering, let's say I use middle point to focus at the eyes, then recompose, the mid point went to somewhere darker, so eventually the pic will b overexposed right?
*
Use AF/AE Lock button, or configure the half-press shutter to lock both focus and exposure.


QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Feb 1 2011, 12:07 PM)
I see.... using the AF&AE lock button when the focus locks on? Then recompose n click the shutter to capture only?

Haha.... Then 39 or 51 AF point oso useless, juz for show only lor  doh.gif
*
Yes, you can use that or configure the settings, for both the AF/AE Lock button as well as the half-press shutter.

If you're using the AF/AE lock button, default for D7000 I think is lock both Focus and Exposure, so if you hold it, the focus and exposure will be lock until you release. So even you release the shutter, it's still maintained,


Added on February 1, 2011, 12:25 pm
QUOTE(eddy230379 @ Feb 1 2011, 11:58 AM)
i use the center AF point ... cos thats the most accurate & sharpest as i was told ...


Added on February 1, 2011, 12:00 pm

i only used it on the day i bought it ... after that till last friday it was in my dry box ... took out to shoot on saturday and everything was back focused ...
*
Since the SC is close, nothing much you can do. Try to check for finger prints/etc on the lens, clean the lens and re-try. If you have other friend with other Nikon models, no harm to try it out since you can't send to SC anyway now.

Good Luck bro; Sorry to hear about the bad news.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Feb 1 2011, 12:25 PM
eddy230379
post Feb 1 2011, 12:55 PM

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QUOTE(Andy214 @ Feb 1 2011, 12:18 PM)
Use AF/AE Lock button, or configure the half-press shutter to lock both focus and exposure.
Yes, you can use that or configure the settings, for both the AF/AE Lock button as well as the half-press shutter.

If you're using the AF/AE lock button, default for D7000 I think is lock both Focus and Exposure, so if you hold it, the focus and exposure will be lock until you release. So even you release the shutter, it's still maintained,


Added on February 1, 2011, 12:25 pm

Since the SC is close, nothing much you can do. Try to check for finger prints/etc on the lens, clean the lens and re-try. If you have other friend with other Nikon models, no harm to try it out since you can't send to SC anyway now.

Good Luck bro; Sorry to hear about the bad news.
*
thanks a lot for ur concern bro ... guess maybe i got a faulty unit then ... everything above f/4 is sharp as hell ... looks like i will be using my 16-85 for CNY shootings then ... anyways ... HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR to all Nikonians in here ... thumbup.gif
User_Xp
post Feb 1 2011, 01:55 PM

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want to find nissin di622 nikon mount,anybody?
General_Nic
post Feb 1 2011, 02:11 PM

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QUOTE(pikipiki @ Feb 1 2011, 12:55 AM)
I know it is possible to test lens at BTS nikon centre. But is it possible to ask them to mount on a D7000 body to test it(as I want to test both the body and lenses)?
*
can, i even c b4 ppl test D3s body laugh.gif

QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Feb 1 2011, 01:56 AM)
bro I didn't realize you have bought your sigma. so fast walawe.
I thought it suppose to be mid year somewhere?
aw.. sorry to hear that. No worry bro after service you will get your monster  thumbup.gif
and the next thing I know is poison from siggy 50mm

Today I decide to bring my 1855 kitty for a walk in China town somewhere.
it's been a while since I mount it on my body, if I am not mistaken the lens throne is directly replaced by my 35mm 1.8.

as the result 1855 is outstanding still a very good lens.
I will spam later. smile.gif
*
1st time i used my 18-55 after using Sigma so long is complain d AF speed of 18-55 laugh.gif

QUOTE(alvinX @ Feb 1 2011, 09:03 AM)
How the lens focus? O.o
Based on my understanding, the SWM is just a motor. The rest is left for you to explain to me about the relationship between this motor and the "low light".
*
AFAIK, SWM allows more precise AF, thats y it'll AF better in low light
g_pentium
post Feb 1 2011, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(KTCY @ Feb 1 2011, 10:06 AM)
Thanks guys. Too bad I don't have any ND with me. Else the sun won't overexpose tongue.gif
*
Can use ND filters to snap sun glare portrait shots right?what type of ND filter is wise able for this shots?ND2?

Btw, im still trying familiarize myself with AF/AE Lock button ,its basically u press the shutter button halfway and press the AF/AE Lock button then fully pressing the shutter button?
aldosoesilo
post Feb 1 2011, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(eddy230379 @ Feb 1 2011, 12:55 PM)
thanks a lot for ur concern bro ... guess maybe i got a faulty unit then ... everything above f/4 is sharp as hell ... looks like i will be using my 16-85 for CNY shootings then ... anyways ... HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR to all Nikonians in here ...    thumbup.gif
*
Bro.. sorry to hear that. but I am curious is it possible for your lens to get fixed if you bring it to their service center?
if it is, no worry la bro. you can still get your monster back.
the next thing I know is poisonous photo from your siggy 50mm. tongue.gif

just hold on a bit. 16-85 ain't bad as with that you can do group shooting as well wink.gif
be positive.
anyway I am curious why there is no back focusing issue when you test it? was it improper test conducted?

QUOTE(User_Xp @ Feb 1 2011, 01:55 PM)
want to find nissin di622 nikon mount,anybody?
*
I have nissin di622 markII. interested?
I will bundle it with battery and external diffuser.


Added on February 1, 2011, 3:26 pm
QUOTE(General_Nic @ Feb 1 2011, 02:11 PM)
can, i even c b4 ppl test D3s body  laugh.gif
1st time i used my 18-55 after using Sigma so long is complain d AF speed of 18-55  laugh.gif
AFAIK, SWM allows more precise AF, thats y it'll AF better in low light
*
I just know BTS give their body to test, I thought they only give testing for entry level up to prosumer kind of body. damn it.!
I should test every body they have then D3x. yay! hahaha

yeah the AF is quite slow but it is a very good lens still. the best you can get with 350 bucks tongue.gif
I'd say. of course we should take a side 50mm 1.8 prime as it serve different purpose. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by aldosoesilo: Feb 1 2011, 03:31 PM

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