New??? Where? Penang?

Here new need almost 3.8K, used also need around 3K...


50mm f/1.8 AFD cost less than RM400 or half the price of 35mm f/1.8G DX.
If you want to try, can get that, but it won't autofocus on your D3100.

For me, on DX body, I still find 50mm not tele enough for nice portrait; Since you have the kit lens, try focus to 50mm and use it and see. For me, it's still not tele enough.

If you shoot raw, your raw file will have none of those settings applied. The first thing you will notice if you do shoot raw is... there is NO NOISE REDUCTION applied. So,... yea, you have more things to PP.


Nope, the bigger the aperture, the easier to know the problem. The smaller aperture will have more in focus, covers more depth, so it's harder to tell.

If you want to do proper focus test, you will need to use tripod and do serious test to know. For basic test without tripod, you can put the camera on the table, line up the batteries, or put a book with wordings 45 degrees, etc. open to the widest aperture and focus and shoot, make sure the camera and object doesn't move. Take several shots, review the pictures and see.

Example:

-|------
--|-----
---|----
----|---
-----|---

---C---

C = Camera
| = Batteries or other objects, or book/paper with words in 45 degrees


If you're handholding and shooting in f/1.4 or 1/1.8, you might not doing it properly where you or the camera might have moved just a little and the actual focus depth/plane changed when you press/release the shutter, resulting in inaccurate test.

If you have time, watch this video tutorial and how this guy test:

Part 1:


Part 2:


This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 27 2011, 01:06 AM

That's the point of opening to wides aperture, for the shallow depth of field so that you can easily pin point which area front or back focus problem. With small aperture, it's harder to differentiate due to the more depth of field covered.
Most people face front or back focusing problem when the aperture is wide open, because they focus on the eyes, but end up the nose or hand, etc is in focus. With smaller aperture, you hardly have such problem.

Unless you wanna do sharpness test for the lens, such as MTF chart, to find out the sharpness at each focal length for each aperture...


This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 27 2011, 01:36 AM

You're not testing on the sharpness, but the focus, you don't gave to get tack sharp image to know. Have you seen focus chart test done with f/1.4? You don't have to get tack sharp image to know the correct results; Plus if you're on tripod or the camera is steady, the image are sharp enough. I don't know what definition or what you're looking for.
Focus test is to test which part is in focus, not which part is sharpest, unless you can't differentiate which part is out of focus and which part is in focus.

Anyway, to each his own; You may have different kind of test compared with others, but generally, if you check around, the test are usually done at widest aperture and there is nothing to do with super sharp image, or mention about how sharp it is. But then, this is just a test, you may have your own kind of test, while another person have another.
No point arguing whose test is correct, the main reason for this test is to find out whether there is any focusing problem, as in front or back focusing, where you focus on let's say the eye, but the nose gets the focus instead. Stopping down 1 stop might not have this problem because both the eye and nose might already in focus, so you wouldn't have know.

ANYWAY, this is how I tested before and what I've read on those test.
OR, as the video I posted previously, (if you actually watched it), the video did test on VARIOUS apertures. So, why stop it down 1 stop, test on widest apertures and stop it down
Want to test, do proper test and extensively.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 27 2011, 02:40 AM

So, if really want to test, can do as the video suggested, test at various aperture. Each lens has it's weak point at different aperture, while most can get sharper image when stop down, but some need to stop down to f/4 or f/5.6, so it's hard to judge how one determine sharpness. When I check focus, I don't pixel peep on sharpness, you don't actually not even need to zoom to tell if there is front or back focusing problem at wide apertures like f/1.4 or f/1.8, which are prime lens; how do it put it, it's pretty obvious especially on focus chart. For non-focus chart, I think it's still quite obvious as most people can tell where the focus point was on the eye, but the focus is not on the eye but on the nose. This most happen at very wide aperture like f/1.4 or f/1.8. With smaller aperture, this problem hardly persist.

Anyway, no harm to test at different apertures if one is doing the testing; better to test more than to test less.

Sell your kitty and get the Tamron, it's quite a vast difference having f/2.8 constant aperture and better optics. You can also consider the Sigma 18-50mm EX DC Macro, which provide some slight macro capability of 1:3 magnification, allows you to focus very very close.

As for VC, required or not, once you try you will know. Have you tested at Nikon BTS?
The 80-200mm f/2.8 is without VC, how do you think people shoot with that? The rule of thumb is to use the correct shutter speed, hold your camera properly.
You can try in Nikon BTS, with 80-200mm, at 200mm on DX, if you hold the camera properly, you will find that you can still get tack sharp images even at speed below 1/200, although you should be using ss over 1/300.

Another difference is... the lens. Try using the 55-200 or 55-300 lens, turn off VR, see how SHAKY it is, it's really bad... Then try the 70-300mm VR, turn off the VR, see how shaky it is.... You'll be thinking how can you hold it steady on those lens without VR....
Then... switch to 80-200mm.... see the difference in weight, build quality and BE AMAZED how it's not shaky compared to the lower end glass.
With FLASH, you can even go lower shutter speed as flash helps to freeze the motion a little. I've tested 1/30 @ 200mm and still get tack sharp images when viewed at 100%. The problem with such slow shutter speed is, movement may cause double vision kind of image, sort of like viewing those 3D picture without 3D glasses; this is when zoom in.

Of course, VR will help especially if you're shooting close up. Try to shoot the miniature model close up, you need to really hold it and set higher shutter speed. Close up shooting will require VR or unless you set high shutter speed but then your focusing will suffer if you're on wide aperture and you moved out of the focusing depth.
Try the 70-200mm VRII and be AMAZED what the VR can do... you can do close-up shot of the miniature and get clear and tack sharp images. I can even focus and get tack sharp image of the uncle inside the shop doing the Rotan thing, of the old lady hidden inside the hut at the padi field. Amazing... but dem the price!

VC good when doing close-up shoot as explain above. Or if you're at long focal length, you can lower your shutter speed to compensate for using lower iso in order to get the correct exposure.

Usually, try not to bump too much on the ISO unless required. But remember, getting wrongly exposed image will suffer more noise than higher ISO.
e.g. ISO800 incorrectly expose will have more noise than ISO1600 correctly exposed.
So, this also explains why some people complains that the ISO is not good, when in fact, they're not shooting right.


This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 27 2011, 01:59 PM

4) Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 EX DC Macro HSM - around RM1.6K

Reviews around the net favors the Tamron, but seems the shops favors the Sigma, maybe want to clear stock as the 18-50mm already phased out by newer version with OS (which is much more expensive).

Sigma will give you some Macro capabilities of 1:3 and very close focusing.

For around the same price, Tamron will give you VC; Build quality, I think Sigma is better, but the outer-coating is the issue here.

Suggest you to test BOTH at the shop yourself, you can also compare the Tamron without VC and with VC. Without VC is really cheap, around RM1.2K? The cost you save, you can budget for another lens or battery grip, etc.

NOTE: There is local set and AP set. For Tamron, local Set by Futuromic Malaysia has 2 years warranty (I think), but it's made in China; Those AP set, should be made in Japan set.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 28 2011, 02:14 PM

Yup... but for Tamron, it's said that the one made in Japan is better, or less problems. That's what been said and read "lah".

I'm not sure the VC or non-VC version has problem with the D7000 during Live View, I think can't focus.
I think there is an update or something for the lens but not sure if it's this case.

The Sigma HSM, have problem with the focusing when using SB700 AF Assist Lamp, the focusing will judder trying to lock on, although it lock on successfully, but it's not accurate as most of the time, the image is soft. Turning off the SB700 AF Assist Lamp, then it focus like normal. No problem with the body AF asssit lamp tough.
Not sure if there is an update for this.

Sigma have better build quality, but the problem is the outer coating will can peel off... it'll look not nice and most probably affect it's resale value...
Maybe someone willl paint it white,

Anyway, the Sigma 18-50mm is a bigger glass... 72mm filter required...

Sigma 17-50? The OS version, that's around RM2.4K++
If you don't need to OS, get the 18-50mm for around RM1.6K and it also comes with some Macro capabilities
Or go for Tamron if you need the VC. Without VC, you could save up to another RM500.

Since your zoom lens already covered wide to 50mm, for the prime, you can go for 85mm f/1.8D; It's a nice portrait lens around RM1.5K++
If you want walkabout primes, better go for 35mm f/1.8G DX, or 35mm f/2D

---

Added on January 30, 2011, 11:46 pmFinally you come in to get some poison

If stay Nikon and previously you mentioned your budget, can consider D90.
If you plan to jump, then go same model as SHIFU aspire.


For bokeh, depends which you're comparing; For 50mm f/1.8D, yes it's very obvious, even 50mm f/1.4D, one reason is the 7 bladed diaphragm; Due to this, you can't get smooth round bokeh especially stop down a little; Even the Sigma Zoom lens with 9 rounded diaphragm blades renders more beautifully.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 30 2011, 11:47 PM

The Siggy OS version is quite expensive, the price difference can get your a prime lens like 35mm f/1.8G DX; but if you think you need it and worth it, then go for it. You can always try out the lenses at the shop first.

85mm is around 127.5mm on DX body; Yes, the range it's far for DX body especially indoors; The reason I suggested this is because you're getting the zoom which cover the wide to 50mm already. But that depends on you, 50mm f/1.8D is very cheap anyway, hehe

Don't worry bro; it's compatible, prepare to get poison
FX = Full Frame (D700, D3, etc)
DX = Crop Sensor (D70, D90, D7000, D3100, D300, etc)

New DSLR got new technology
Basically, many things are improved.

Actually it's Canon that is not compatible to all body.

Anyway, it's not really an issue to everyone.

Then I suggest you try to stay away, especially from holding one

24 on DX is not wide enough, if you like to capture landscape and/or group photo. Test the Sigma or Tammy 17-50mm f/2.8.

for the 50mm prime, get the f/1.8D if you're on budget, forget about the 1.4D; IMO, not worth spending on it, if you want to get the 1.4D, might be better to spend a little more and get the G or Sigma.
50mm on DX indoors is a bit tight too, 35mm on DX is just about right. Even with the 35mm on DX, it can still get a bit tight depend on the situation.
But you already have 18-55mm right? I think you know the range well and what range you use more indoors.

85mm f/1.8D focus is fast! Bokeh and picture quality is nice too, way better than 50mm f/1.4D; It's a sweets lens for the price. It's tight indoors, say if you want to capture half body portrait.

Not sure if they let you bring outdoor.
Anyway, for Nikon lens, you can go to Nikon BTS and test all the lens you want..... There are miniature model you can snap snap.....

Bro,

You can get the body first, use back your current lens; When you know what kind of photography you want or what type of lens you need, then you can start invest. OR you can do it with your current body first.

The lens you can buy now and still be use on the future body that you want to purchase.

Since you never have primes before, try getting a prime lens for your D70. 50mm f/1.8D cheap cheap option.

Try unmount and remount the lens. Try shooting with tripod using timer, is it really have back/front focus now?
Let some experienced DSLR user try.

using small aperture is harder to tell back/front focus because the depth of field is covered more.

Are you shooting in low light?
Are you using external flash? If yes, is the flash AF assist lamp turned on?
If no flash, is the on camera AF Assist lamp turned on?

When the focus is locking on, is it lock-on instantly or does it judder a little while locking on?