not really 10W30 must semi syn or mineral
but with 5W and lower, should be semi syn and fullly syn

i can make 10W30 fully syn. how abt market acceptance ?

You are engine oil manufacturer?

I don't know why Malaysian are so fixated with Synthetic oil. We don't live in Alaska nor Sahara so I see absolutely no reason to use them in our Protons and Perodua etc. But I guess Malaysian are either paranoid or have too much money to burn.

That film-forming feature only available in semisyn & above ?
How great if Mineral also got MoS2...

Distilled water is cleaner than tap water for bathing. But do you need distill water for bathing?

Synthetic is better than mineral to protect engines. But do you need Synthetic for use in Proton?

Same logic.

In all my years and my friend's year of driving turbo diesel which are harsher on engine oil then petrol engine, never once do we have engine oil related problem with using Mineral. The longest we kept our engine were 1/2 million kilometer before selling off and even then, no problem


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Aug 11 2012, 11:33 AM

Actually everything is based on their spending power... They use better oil to protect their engine are their choice... Same thing that you wearing branded clothes and normal chothes... Better quality is giving better protection, This is always customer thinking...

Use Synthetic for Diesel engine is ok too, problem is that's too much expensive compare to Petrol Engine, since they use more oil compare to diesel engine... If you use the transport for working, you need to service more compare to others, you will think about cheaper and also quality oil to protect your engine...

I already found out mine, how about you?

Mineral that can last 1/2 million km is already good enough for me.

Because it's a cheap upgrade. Malaysians love cheap upgrades. We especially rely on our buttdynos to determine the quality of the upgrade.

But generally it also due to the cost of cars which people view as a long term thing. We'll do anything to protect it, even if it means they have to spend more on oil to give it that extra edge of longevity.

I personally spend quite a lot on oil changes, I usually use Purolator ONE or K&N Pro filters with Royal Purple XPR or Motul 300V. It costs an average 400 ringgit to change the oil with RP and 450 with Motul.

To compare a turbodiesel with regular engine is tad bit naff. TD's have giant top decks, steel pistons, cast I beam rods, giant cranks so forth. They're a very different kind of engine and have to operate off autoignition.

If I were to build an Evo motor with cast iron sleeves, heavy I beam rods, fat wrist pins, age hardened alloy bolts, silicon alloyed pistons, knife cut and balanced crank I could probably go double the amount of KMs that your turbo diesel could on dino oil alone at the same power and torque.

if Proton/Perodua everyday till redline before change gear, of coz need fully syn extra protection.

if Japanese?Conti cars that everyday drive at 3K rpm only, to put fully syn is really wasting.

end of day, depends of application.

if you have certain conditions (eg: skin diseases), id think that you may need distilled water or well treated/filtered water.

likewise, if you're driving is all about getting from point a to point b, sure. why bother anything over mineral right?

however if you'd like to have a bit of fun in your driving, go high revving, heavy start stops etc (if you're driving fast in traffic, you're ought to face harder braking situations and high revving again to pick up the pace)

i'm sure if you're a car person, you'd like to have:
1) more protection to your engine due to your behavior
2) having engine oil that provides less friction/coating to your engine so that it performs/revs better.

now, i have used almost all the mainstream mineral oil (shell, caltax, mobil, petronas etc) before i moved to semi syn i am using now, i can tell you straight up that none of them can last more then 2-3k km without my engine feeling sluggish, and none of them can provide me the smoothness and/or faster revving that i am having now.

granted, this is more of a "user problem" than an engine or engine oil problem. however its their driving, their money. who are you to judge?

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Added on August 12, 2012, 1:28 am+1 to buttdyno and lol malaysian + cars

also in malaysia, buying a car (if you're a car person and not point a to b person) is even harder than choosing a wife. i mean, can one really blame us when buying a car literally blows off a huge chunk (or all, or worse, more!) than your life savings? slaving away to banks for 5/7/9 years?

compare malaysian car buying power towards foreign countries. (you'd be damn low if you mention singapore, mind you) other people buy car as if its chum change. we buy car with life savings, lol much.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 12 2012, 01:28 AM

Wow, there's a lot of sifus here.

Currently, I'm using ENEOS Racing Molybdenum 10W40 for my LMST, SHELL Helix HX7 E 5w30 on Persona Elegance, SHELL Helix HX7 10w40 on Saga BLM and Iswara.

It's quite hard for me to get those better oil like TORCO and MOTUL here at Sarawak.
ENEOS pun I cari everywhere baru found.

ENEOS Racing Molybdenum 10w40 on LMST, just normal lor, but in my own opinion, is better if compared to Petronas Syntium 800 10w40 from Proton SC.

For SHELL Helix HX7 E 5w30 on Persona Elegance... hmm... felt engine suddenly not so kuat after the oil change. Thinking of changing to SHELL Helix Ultra 5w40 on the next oil change.

For SHELL Helix HX7 10w40 on Saga BLM and Iswara, its ok. So far so good lor.

Thats my simple review. hehe.

One question, anyone got any opinions about the SHELL Helix HX7 E? and what's the difference between 5w30 and 5w40? 30 and 40 got what difference?

This post has been edited by justhao: Aug 12 2012, 01:40 AM

shell? tried mineral and for once semi syn.

i just want to say that my engine feels damn refreshed after an oil change from either of those oil at 5k km (the semi syn at 7.5k because thats what all the "sifus" said [5k min/7.5k semi/10k full] lol).

Sure you need proper protection of engine but there is no need to go overboard. IMO, Protons etc using Fully Synthetic is going overboard.

Now what your butts feel and what is actually happening in the engine are not the same thing. For example, additives like anti-rust and anti-foaming in both Mineral and Synthetic got depleted at the same time. So while after certain km, while the Synethtic may still make your butts feel smooth, it's anti-rust are already long gone just like the anti-rust in Mineral.

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Added on August 12, 2012, 12:13 pmThis is the biggest load of rubbish around. No where have I seen that written in black & white anywhere in the world. Only through mechanic and friends of friends etc.

Go ask this acid question to whoever told you that nonsense "Why do we change engine oil? Is it because butts say engine no longer feel smooth or is it because the additives in engine oil has been depleted"?


This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Aug 12 2012, 12:15 PM

i change my semi syn these days at ~5-6k km.
i sincerely believe that the additives last waaaay longer than what i am doing my OCI at.

at least my engine never felt sluggish unlike the mainstream crap i've used. mineral or semi synthetic

also, i did double quoted "sifu"
and that was the past when i was using crap mainstream oils.

so chill the f*** out?

Funny Malaysian motorist like to use their "butt-meter" instead of proper scientific measurement. And so far, all scientific measurement in Black & White on additives contradict your butt-meter.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Aug 13 2012, 11:04 AM

so, mainstream oil making my engine sluggish at 3-4k km, means i need to OCI at 3-4k km? thats actually more expensive than me going good semi syn at 5-6k km bro.

thought you dont want us to go overboard?

You are talking about Base Oil aka smooth butt feel. I am talking about Additives aka something that can not be felt by butts and only by oil analysis. The reason to change engine oil is due to Additives or rather, the depletion of Additives.

so you're saying, even when shitty shell or caltex or whatever mainstream oil is sluggish at 3-4k km mileage, however you may or may not know that the additives is already depleted because if you UOA, you might as well OCI at the same time;

i should or shouldn't change my oil?
even if my engine is going to feel like shit and takes forever to redline/go fast?

if your answer is stick with the sluggishness:
i'm sorry, i cant deal with sluggish engines. i'd rather take a public transport then.

your oci should stick with manufacturer recommended mah. regardless of what oil u use as long as its decent and meets the manufacturer's spec.

yaloh, i stick with 5k km, and suddenly macam wrong. lol.